Our Big Neighbour, Indonesia

Australians don't know enough about Indonesia. I certainly don't. So when our Indonesian/ Australian friend Budi said he was doing research in Makassar, I jumped at the chance to go. I also plan to see Bali with my sister Carol who often goes there. Læs mere

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15. marts 2024
Our Big Neighbour, Indonesia Rejsende
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Dag 1
fredag den 15. marts 2024 kl. 13.05
☀️ 31 °C
Højde: 17 m
Indonesien Ngurah Rai International Airport -8.742618, 115.1668168°44’33” S 115°10’1” E
I've Been to Bali, too!
15. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
I'm 65. An Aussie. A man from Cronulla. And I haven't been to Bali! What have I been doing?
Well, I'm setting out to correct that, guided by my ex-surfie chick sister Carol who's been coming to Bali for 47 years while I was her daggy brother studying and working at home.
So soon I'll be able to say
"I've been to Bali, too".Læs mere
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Dag 1
fredag den 15. marts 2024 kl. 13.31
⛅ 31 °C
Højde: 9 m
Indonesien Legian Beach -8.697008, 115.1643538°41’49” S 115°9’52” E
Welcome to Bali, Welcome to Paradise!
15. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
Not!
Kuta is the iconic Bali destination but it's turned into a complete disaster.
Straight off the plane Carol took me to Kuta and Legian beaches. Bumper to Bumper traffic through narrow lanes lined with pubs and bars. When we got there, Kuta beach had been washed away in heavy rains and was just a rocky retaining wall littered with rubbish. Not Paradise!
Carol first came here in 1977 when there was nothing here except pristine beach. Since then it's been overbuilt, over promoted and overdone. It has lost the beauty of Bali and the Balinese.
The truth is I've avoided Bali because I didn't want to be seen as part of that drunken Aussie scene.Læs mere
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Dag 1
fredag den 15. marts 2024 kl. 15.57
⛅ 31 °C
Højde: 9 m
Indonesien Legian Beach -8.697008, 115.1643538°41’49” S 115°9’52” E
Bali Bombing
15. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
While I hate the drunken scene in Kuta, the Bali Bombings were an abomination.
The Islamic Fundamentalists wanted to destroy Western Decadence but they weren't from Bali and also had no respect for the Balinese. Many Balinese were killed too.
Thankfully they have been stopped from doing it again.Læs mere
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Dag 1
fredag den 15. marts 2024 kl. 16.00
⛅ 31 °C
Højde: 10 m
Indonesien Pantai Legian -8.707176, 115.1693838°42’26” S 115°10’10” E
Flat out in Bali
15. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
In Kuta and Legian there's a massage parlour about every 10 metres willing to give you a "happy ending".
Carol took me past those to her traditional healer /masseur Wayan for a treatment.
Very strong massage but it loosened up my neck, shoulders and hips very well. So I was much more flexible and relaxed, once I'd recovered.
So it was a different sort of happy ending.Læs mere
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Dag 1
fredag den 15. marts 2024 kl. 19.20
☁️ 29 °C
Højde: 10 m
Indonesien Sindhu Beach -8.685287, 115.2601638°41’7” S 115°15’37” E
Nasi Goreng rules!
15. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
Indonesians love their food and I love Indonesian food . First meal in Indonesia was at a warrung (cafe) that Carol has been coming to for 15 years. Nasi Goreng and Beef Rendang, just $7.
Enak (delicious)

That night we went to dinner at a nearby Night Market in Sanur which was mostly for locals
Basically, food carts of different local foods.
Satay, meatballs, gado gado, matabuk (like a pide), fresh fruit juices, lots of sweets and Nasi Goreng, of course.
With omelette just $3.
Freshly made and enak bunyak (very delicious).Læs mere
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Dag 1
fredag den 15. marts 2024 kl. 21.00
☁️ 28 °C
Højde: 11 m
Indonesien Sindhu Beach -8.686483, 115.2624488°41’11” S 115°15’45” E
1 Million just doesn't buy much any more
15. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
A million Rupiah!
Tell'em they're dreaming.
Oh!
it's only $100 Australian dollar (AUD) as 1 Australian dollar is worth 10,000 Indonesian Rupiah (IDR)
It's very confusing.
But prices here are much cheaper so $100 will still buy you a lot more here than it would in Australia.
Top class accommodation could cost IDR 1 Million a night whereas you'd probably pay AUD$500 a night in Australia.
But for most things prices are usually in the 10s or 100s of thousands which seem expensive but aren't really.
45,000 IDR is only AUD $4.50 but my brain wants to think it's AUD $45. It's quite difficult to automatically divide by 10,000.
But then shops often advertise things as 45k, meaning 45 thousand Rupiah. So again my brain automatically goes to AUD$45 not $4.50 and I have to adjust my brain.
This picture helps but I need it affixed to my glasses so I can see it every time I shop.Læs mere
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Dag 2
lørdag den 16. marts 2024 kl. 11.46
☁️ 33 °C
Højde: 143 m
Indonesien Tukad Sayan -8.541478, 115.1725568°32’29” S 115°10’21” E
Temples of Bali
16. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C
Most of Indonesia was Hindu at one stage. But then Islam spread through the archipelago and Bali was the only place to resist it. So it has a unique Hindu culture which the Balinese take very seriously.
Every household has a shrine, every village has a temple and special places have very sacred temples.
Taman Ayun Temple was built to worship the ancestral spirits of the kings of Mengwi. There are 9 pagodas surrounded by a moat represent the 9 major temples of Bali in the middle of a sea of milk.
This Temple is part of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage listing for Bali's culture. For more info go to https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1194Læs mere
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Dag 2
lørdag den 16. marts 2024 kl. 12.34
☁️ 29 °C
Højde: 666 m
Indonesien Banjar Jatiluwih Kangin -8.370208, 115.1311758°22’13” S 115°7’52” E
Escape to the Country
16. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
I've now seen the madness of Denpasar so Carol organises a car and driver to show me traditional Balinese life in the country.
This means lots of rice fields (and temples).
We went to Jatiluwih Rice Terrace which is also included in a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage listing for the cultural practices of Bali. The rice farmers here are paid to use traditional methods to keep it as it is and tourists come and pay to take pictures.
More details (https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1194)
Afterwards we went down a narrow forest path to have lunch, (with Nasi Goreng of course) at a warrung overlooking more rice terraces. We could even see a farmer plowing the rice paddies with oxen. You can't get any more traditional than that.Læs mere
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Dag 2
lørdag den 16. marts 2024 kl. 14.10
☁️ 25 °C
Højde: 1.262 m
Indonesien Banjar Kembangmerta -8.263291, 115.1655968°15’48” S 115°9’56” E
Is it a temple or an amusement park?
16. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Ulun Danu Beratan is a very sacred temple on the shore of a beautiful volcanic crater lake and included UNESCO World Cultural Heritage listing for Bali's culture. It's so sacred, visitors can't even go into the temples even though you pay an entrance fee. And the classic pagoda was being repaired.
But then it has crazy statues, swan paddle boats, love heart swan seat, playgrounds, a puzzle park, restaurants, cafes and an ice cream shop and more to attract people. It worked as it was packed.
I understand that temples need to raise money to maintain the buildings. They all charge entrance fees but this was a bit over the top.Læs mere
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Dag 3
søndag den 17. marts 2024 kl. 09.39
☀️ 30 °C
Højde: Havoverfladen
Indonesien Tanjung Serangan -8.707382, 115.2627428°42’27” S 115°15’46” E
The quieter side of Denpasar
17. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
We're staying at the Swastika Guest House in Sanur on the eastern side of Denpasar.
Kuta and Legian are on the western side which has good waves. That's why they were originally popular with surfies. Sanur has few waves so it's not as developed. Which is good.
In the 70s it was fishing village like most of the east coast villages.
Today, being Sunday, the Balinese have the day off and like most people enjoy relaxing by the beach or riding bikes along the foreshore, etc.
There's a turtle hatchery on the main beach to save the sea turtles. They raise the turtles to a good size then release them to increase their chances of survival in the wild.Læs mere
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Dag 4
mandag den 18. marts 2024 kl. 10.59
⛅ 31 °C
Højde: 77 m
Indonesien Banjar Tegeha -8.587128, 115.2682818°35’14” S 115°16’6” E
Traditional family compound
18. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
This family has opened up their family home to visitors to see how a traditional family compound works. They still live there so we can see the real thing. Though it does seem strange to look through someone's place when they're there.
In traditional buildings, joints are not nailed in place so they can be flexible during an earthquake.Læs mere
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Dag 4
mandag den 18. marts 2024 kl. 11.31
⛅ 31 °C
Højde: 86 m
Indonesien Banjar Tengah -8.581511, 115.2759678°34’53” S 115°16’33” E
Batuan Temple, best temple so far
18. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
In India temples are adorned with friezes and statues and gold and murals and too much decoration. So far Balinese temples had little decoration so it was nice to see this Temple because it has a lot of frieze work and decoration.Læs mere
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Dag 4
mandag den 18. marts 2024 kl. 12.27
☁️ 31 °C
Højde: 162 m
Indonesien Tukad Pejeng -8.523136, 115.2865198°31’23” S 115°17’11” E
Beware of ripoff guides.
18. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
Goa Gajal is a cave carved with the face of an elephant about 400 years ago. Inside there is shrine with 3 linga sculptures ie penis sculptures. Traditional in Indian Hindu culture but rare in Balinese culture. Outside are 6 sculptures of women with water fountains on their chests which are believed to provide an aura of purification for visitors if splashed 3 times on their head.
All of this can be found on Wikipedia but the guides there ask for IDR 300,000 or AUD $30 to tell you that. And some people paid it.Læs mere
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Dag 4
mandag den 18. marts 2024 kl. 12.42
☁️ 31 °C
Højde: 97 m
Indonesien Banjar Sumampan -8.548543, 115.2903248°32’55” S 115°17’25” E
Love the natural Infinity Pool
18. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
Taman Petanu Eco Neighborhood is a sustainable housing development on the outskirts of Ubud.
Our friend Aaron and his coworker Darren designed the Permaculture Plan here so I wanted to see his work. They researched local traditional techniques and knowledge to reflect the local conditions.
It has a number of private houses and communal facilities including a beautiful infinity pool which uses natural, non- chemical strategies to keep it clean.Læs mere
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Dag 4
mandag den 18. marts 2024 kl. 18.58
☁️ 27 °C
Højde: 208 m
Indonesien Tukad Ubud -8.506966, 115.2625468°30’25” S 115°15’45” E
Feel the Serenity
18. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
Ubud is supposed to be the cultural centre of Bali. The place for yoga retreats and relaxation but they've killed the goose that laid the golden egg.
Ubud is far from serene and tranquil.
Ubud just doesn't have the capacity to cope with all the tourists.
The main problem is that the traffic is horrendous. Noisy, smelly and poisonous.
The roads weren't designed for today's traffic.
The tourists like us will still come, but they could start by making the central area car and motorbike free, even just for the evenings. There's a trial of electric shuttle buses around the main centre which is great. Hopefully it will take off and they ban cars and bikes.Læs mere
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Dag 5
tirsdag den 19. marts 2024 kl. 10.33
⛅ 31 °C
Højde: 183 m
Indonesien Tukad Siapsiap -8.517731, 115.2596678°31’4” S 115°15’35” E
The Last Forest in Ubud
19. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
The Ubud Monkey Forest is really the last area of traditional forest left. So it's the last place monkeys can roam freely. There are some magnificent trees and you get a sense of what it was like in the past.Læs mere
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Dag 5
tirsdag den 19. marts 2024 kl. 18.15
☁️ 28 °C
Højde: 208 m
Indonesien Tukad Ubud -8.506834, 115.262568°30’25” S 115°15’45” E
2
Ceremony overrules everything!
19. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
Religion and ceremony is the most important thing for the Balinese.
The only time traffic is stopped is when there's a ceremonial procession. This one is going from a local shrine to the central shrine. But no-one could explain to us what it was for. They always dress impeccably in their white outfits. The gods must be pleased.Læs mere
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Rejsende What’s the occasion?
24.03.2024SvarOversætte
Rejsende Sorry, couldn't get an answer from anyone.
25.03.2024SvarOversætte
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Dag 6
onsdag den 20. marts 2024 kl. 12.46
⛅ 29 °C
Højde: 576 m
Indonesien Bukit Buungan -8.422206, 115.3592728°25’20” S 115°21’33” E
Sick and tired of tourist ripoffs
20. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
I know we have more money than the Balinese. I know we should contribute to the upkeep of historic and spiritual sites. But it does seem we get put on a treadmill of having to visit the same sites and keep paying no matter what.
Penglipuran is billed as a historic village preserved in traditional style. What a joke?
Just about all the houses have tin roofed lean-tos full of tourist junk to sell. We paid to see it then they want us to pay more for junk.
The street scape has actually been preserved and there is occasional house with traditional style but most look like crap.Læs mere
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Dag 6–8
20. marts 2024 kl. 16.53 - 22. marts 2024
2 nætter
⛅ 28 °C
Højde: 14 m
Indonesien Labuan Ambat -8.334936, 115.6482028°20’6” S 115°38’54” E
The (almost) real Bali
20.–22. mar. 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
We've been to the major tourist spots. Now a chance to slow down and see quieter areas with less tourists and more locals.
Amed is a small fishing village on the East coast which is attracting more tourists but still retains it's heritage. Many people still fish using their traditional trimarans which they keep on the beach. But it's changing with more cafes and guest houses opening up.
The guest house we stayed in was directly on the beach on a spot which would have been a fisherman's house. And I don't think the 2 Reggae cafes are traditional Balinese culture.Læs mere
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Dag 7
torsdag den 21. marts 2024 kl. 07.37
☀️ 27 °C
Højde: 13 m
Indonesien Labuan Ambat -8.335461, 115.6484588°20’8” S 115°38’54” E
In the shadow of the volcano
21. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Amed is at the base of Mt Agung, an active volcano. It last erupted in 2019. So the soil is very rich and the sand is very black and locals are alert to any danger signs.
You can climb it overnight to watch the sunrise. It takes 7-8 hours and climbs 1200 metres to the summit of 3112 metres.
I was going to climb it but I couldn't find my hiking shoes that day. 😁
But my nephew Evan has done it.Læs mere
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Dag 8
fredag den 22. marts 2024 kl. 07.59
☀️ 27 °C
Højde: 7 m
Indonesien Labuan Ambat -8.334697, 115.6482198°20’5” S 115°38’54” E
Some touristy things are worth doing
22. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
We were recommended getting a car to take us to 3 snorkeling sites for the morning. Then we were told we could do them by traditional fishing boat even though it was more expensive.
What a great idea!
So we had a great morning on the boat and snorkeling. Seeing the coast from a boat gives you a different perspective of the place. The snorkeling was not as good as the Great Barrier Reef but it was still worthwhile.
Luckily no-one had a camera to take photos of us trying to get back on the boat looking like deformed seals.Læs mere
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Dag 8
fredag den 22. marts 2024 kl. 18.31
⛅ 28 °C
Højde: 9 m
Indonesien Tukad Amed -8.334505, 115.6456868°20’4” S 115°38’44” E
The (almost) real Bali part 2
22. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
One of the perils of rural life in Bali are the blackouts. No aircon on hot humid days are disastrous for us bole (westerners). We open up the doors to try to catch the sea breeze or jump in the pool clothes and all.
Then the joy of guest houses being next to fishing shacks is the local tradition of burning off rubbish, especially plastic. Really makes you feel like you're inhaling the local rustic atmosphere.Læs mere
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Dag 9
lørdag den 23. marts 2024 kl. 07.00
⛅ 27 °C
Højde: 9 m
-8.334554, 115.6457768°20’4” S 115°38’45” E
Flying Solo
23. marts 2024 ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
It's been great being guided by Carol but she has to go back to Brisbane. So I need to go solo until I meet up with Budi in Makassar.
We survived a week together. We probably haven't done that for 50 years. As kids we weren't close. She left school early and I went to Uni. But as adults we've learnt to appreciate each other.
Selamat jalan, kakak perempuan. (Goodbye or bon voyage, big sister)Læs mere
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Dag 9–12
23. marts 2024 kl. 16.40 - 26. marts 2024
3 nætter
⛅ 28 °C
Højde: 9 m
Indonesien Tukad Amed -8.334553, 115.6457568°20’4” S 115°38’45” E
Chilling out in Amed
23.–26. mar. 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
Even more time to chill now.
Walks on the beach in early morning and evening. Stay cool in the aircon during the day. Maybe walk to the shops for an isotonic drink or gelato. Watch the ships passing by on the way to Jakarta or Makassar. Watch the locals build a raft for some community event. Even the dogs just chill out on the footpath.Læs mere
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Dag 12
tirsdag den 26. marts 2024 kl. 17.02
☁️ 29 °C
Højde: 10 m
Indonesien Pantai Legian -8.706519, 115.1689648°42’23” S 115°10’8” E
Trying to overcome my prejudice
26. marts 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
Back in Denpasar I stayed at Legian. I know I said it was horrendous but I thought I should try to overcome my prejudice and give it a proper chance.
And you know what? I still think it's horrible and boring. The beach is ok but you know Australians are spoilt when it comes to beaches. And if you dive through the back lanes you can find good authentic Indonesian food.
But when it comes down to it, why bother coming to Bali, when all you want is Aussie Pub culture.Læs mere
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