• Sharon Miller
August 2025

Mountains and Lakes Kyrgyzstan

KE Adventures Phil, Michelle, Angus, Jeanie, John, Emma, Dave, Natalie, Read more
  • Trip start
    August 16, 2025

    Arrival in Bishkek

    August 17 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    We flew from Almaty to Bishkek last evening. The flight was only 40 minutes which was shorter than the drive from the airport to the city center of Bishkek. We enjoyed an evening at the Sheraton which was a luxurious treat before heading over to the My Hotel Bishkek today to meet our new travel buddies at noon. We are a group of 10: 8 from the British Isles and Gilles and I, so we will likely adopt their accents! We started our city tour with a visit to the Osh Bazaar, one of the largest and most vibrant bazaars in Central Asia. It indeed was a bustling place, especially as the start of school is approaching and lots of families are doing back to school shopping. After a stroll through there we went to lunch at The Navat Restaurant, a familiar dining spot for us as we had eaten there twice in Kazakhstan. Time to walk our lunch off and see the City Center so we saw the sites by foot. The streets are lined with shady trees and flowers, mostly roses, and are wide and clean. Two years ago, a massive restoration of monuments was completed and attractions were in pristine condition. Our route was centred around the Ala Too Square and Victory Square, the capital’s World War Two Monument. We also saw a monument of Lenin. There is still a heavy presence of Russian influence. People speak Russian and Kyrgyz and the currency is Som. We returned to the hotel for a welcome pre dinner nap and then set off to enjoy a delicious dinner at yet another Navat where we enjoyed a pavlova and tomato and onion salad and more delicious bread. Tomorrow is a big day and anticipation is high for the real adventure to begin.Read more

  • Osh Bazaar, Bishkek

    August 17 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    This endless maze of shops and vendors sell a dizzying variety of products and produce from household items and traditional clothing to local foods and spices. It is a “feast for your senses” and exploring the Osh Bazaar gave us a great introduction to Kyrgyz culture and daily life.Read more

  • Bishkek to Son Kul Lake

    August 18 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We left the city this morning to begin our 7-8 hour journey to picturesque Son Kul Lake, Kyrgyzstan’s second largest mountain lake, where we will spend two nights in our yurt camp. The scenery en route had me sitting on the edge of my seat the entire way. Stunning is an understatement as we climbed up through the mountains passing pastures of cows, horses, sheep and yaks. We were lucky to have multiple photo stops and a stop in a small town for lunch with the locals.Read more

  • Our Yurt Camp

    August 18 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We arrived at the yurt camp around 4:30 pm and were immediately greeted by a nice young man who offered us a glass of white wine and a traditional bread treat. What a beautiful camp, complete with a dining tent, a building that housed clean bathrooms and shower stalls, and about 30 private two person yurts with warm bedding, pillows, a wood stove and several small chests to lay things out on. There was even a person who came by in the middle of the night, much to our surprise and delight, to stoke the fire in the wood stove. What an absolute treat! We took a stroll down to the lake and hung out with the livestock that was roaming about before we convened for a delicious dinner and a rowdy game of Flip 7 with our new travel mates.Read more

  • Full Day at Son Kul Lake

    August 19 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    We enjoyed a full day at Son Kul Lake today, stepping into the nomadic life. The Kyrgyz people here still live in traditional yurts made up of a wooden frame and several felt layers, making them ideal for quickly dismantling and transporting as they migrate from summer to winter pastures with their horses and other livestock. In the morning we completed a 7 km walk up the hills and around some of pastures to help acclimatize to the altitude which is 3100 meters, before going higher tomorrow. At lunch time we were given a 12 liter sac and instructions that we must fill it with only the essentials needed for our upcoming 6 day trek. Gotta love a challenge! It will be carried by porters each day and the remainder of our luggage will be returned to our van that will catch up to us in a weeks time. Gotta love a challenge! We had the afternoon off. Some took a one hour horseback ride while the rest of us read, strolled down to the lake, basked in the sun, and played games. It is so beautiful you don’t ever want to leave but we are told more beauty is in store.Read more

  • Son Kul Lake to Djety Oguz Gorge

    August 20 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We had an eleven hour day of travel today broken up by stops at panoramic viewpoints, a delicious lunch in a Kyrgyz family home, toilet stops, and stops to refuel. The wonderful scenery was ever changing and was a constant delight. In the morning we drove to Issyk-Kul Lake, this time Kyrgyzstan’s largest mountain lake. Our first photo stop was to watch a group of mountain bikers descend through the winding path into the valley. It was a thrill to travel down by vehicle so I can only imagine the adrenaline rush it gave the cyclists. As we rounded the southern shore of the lake we stopped to visit Fairy Tale Valley and then on towards the Tien Shan, literally translated as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’. Our track takes us up a steep gorge, lined with the famous Tien Shan Spruce, and along a mountain river in to the Terskey Alatau Range which eventually opens on to the so called ‘Flower Meadow’ where we continue to our beautifully situated yurt camp. 3 kms from camp we got a flat tire which was changed in less than 10 minutes. Roads were rough so it wasn’t entirely unexpected. We pulled into our new yurt camp around 7:30 pm and enjoyed a delicious dinner. The soup appetizer always hits the spot. We have a 4 person yurt and this one is without heat so we borrowed the extra blankets on the two empty beds to keep us warm. Tomorrow we start the 6 day trek with a 12 kg limit. Gilles and I managed to wittle our stuff down to 7 kg each. No one exceeded 10 kg. What an awesome group!Read more

  • Fairy Tale Valley, Broken Heart & 7 Bull

    August 20 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This aptly named canyon is full of red spires and bizarre rock formations. Formed by a unique mix of ice, water and wind erosion over thousands of years, local legend speaks of a dragon turning to red stone having flooded the ancient cities now under the waters of Issyk-Kul Lake, all because the local beauty would not marry the dragon. On our way into camp we also saw the broken heart rock and the formation of what looks like 7 bulls standing together. A truly ‘magical’ day!Read more

  • Day 1 - Djety Gorge to Telety Camp

    August 21 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We met the porter team this morning who will support us through the 6 day Tien Shan Trek by carrying our main luggage to the next camp where we will be reunited with it each evening. We also met our second guide, Akul, who will stay at the back of the pack. Our 6 hour, 13.5 km trek, started directly from the camp, winding along the riverbank of a narrow wooded gorge which led us up to an alpine meadow where we walked on a carpet of wild flowers and were at one with the stunning nature around us. We continued trekking until we reached our tent camp at the foot of the Telety Pass. As we approached the camp we got lots of practice with river crossings, some stone and others by make shift wooden bridges. After we had a warm drink, snack and good 30 minute rest we walked a further 45 minutes, 5km round trip to a nearby waterfall. The tents were adequate but there was only a small dining tent that was shared with others campers, which restricted when we had access to it and the outhouse left a whole lot to be desired. I will need all my strength to get through the next 5 days if I want to receive my hardcore campers badge!Read more

  • Day 2 -Trek Over The Telety Pass

    August 22 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Todays 14 km trek took us 7 hours and involved 600 meters of of ascent followed by 1200 meters of descent. I had a strong hiking day and felt good throughout the day. Our guide at the back, Akul, told me that I was an inspiration to the group and that felt good. Once again the views were spectacular. It was fun to watch our camp grow miniature as we ascended for 2 hours 45 mins to reach the peak and then to see a thin trail stretch out in the distance as we descended and watched that shrink too as we progressed. We encountered horses, cows, and marmots, as well as a few other happy hikers who are always friendly. Our camp set up was similar to the previous evening but had a sauna. We were hoping for a warmer night since we are at 2500 meters in altitude but no such luck. Once the sun went down, not even the sauna tempted us to shed some layers. Gilles had his own adventure today as he backtracked to the previous night’s yurt camp and caught a transfer to Karakol where he will rest at a hotel until he can rejoin us. He and the altitude were not seeing eye to eye. Everyone misses him and wishes him a speedy recovery.Read more

  • Day 3- Trek to Foot of Karakol Peak

    August 23 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    After a rare opportunity to gather at 9am for breakfast, 6 of us gathered with Akul to complete a 4 hour, 10km, out and back loop to reach the Karakol Peak viewpoint situated at the foot of the majestic glacier. Karakol Peak is the highest peak in the Terseky Alatau at 5216m. We hiked along the Uyun Tor River, through a Blue Spruce forest and up to a rocky prominence. This was the perfect spot to enjoy some lunch while admiring the spectacular view. The legs were tired out for all the ups on the way there and were also tired out for all of the downs on the way back. I am thrilled that I went though because the panorama was breathtaking, definitely one I would have hated missing. Back at camp we treated ourselves to a sauna and complete hair and body wash. My goodness did that rejuvenate me! It will be dinner and bed for this girl as we are facing 1100 meters of nothing but an uphill climb tomorrow to reach our next camp at 3800 meters in the mountains.Read more

  • Day 4 - Karakol Gorge to Ala Kul Lake

    August 24 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Today we woke up to cloudy skies and chased the mist and rain for the first 4 hours. On the up side, the cloud cover made for a warmer night’s sleep last evening. The rain caught up to us at km 8 and turned into sleet and then snow as we battled on for the last 2km which were the steepest until we reached our camp at 3600m altitude. Our reward was two lovely waterfalls and a beautiful turquoise lake nestled in between the mountain tops. Our climb was all uphill today and we trekked through forest, alongside the streams from the high lake, skree slopes and boulder fields. We all took care of one another and miraculously no one suffered any injuries. We are camping beside the lake and have all been given a bottle of hot water in put inside our sleeping bags to help stay warm. The conditions of the camp are very poor. It is an absolute mud bath and tents are pitched at all angles on the sloping hillside. The one toxic out house, shared by all because the second one fell off the edge is precariously perched on the edge of the cliff. I enjoyed the challenge of today and seeing what my mind and body are capable of, but wouldn’t want two days in a row like this. Tomorrow will be its own challenge as we navigate our way further uphill for 4km and then downhill for 14km to our camp in the hot springs where we hope to find showers. Gilles is now feeling better but poor weather and dangerous road conditions have prevented him from safely meeting us in Arachan. I sure am anxious to see him on Wednesday when we reach the town of Karakol.Read more

  • Day 5 - Ala-Kul Lake to Arashan Gorge

    August 25 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Ala-Kul is normally a special place to wake, possibly the prettiest lake in Kyrgyzstan. Translating as ‘Colourful Lake’ it changes colour depending on the light conditions. It is surrounded on all sides by high mountain peaks, creating a dramatic natural amphitheatre to enjoy your breakfast in awe of. It rained all night and unfortunately we woke up to a cold and misty mess. After a hot breakfast we thanked the camp staff and the porters, and started the ascent to Ala-Kul Pass (3902m). The porters will leave us today once they drop our bags at the camp in Altyn Arachan Gorge. It took us 3 hours to complete the pass. We first ascended for 300 meters to reach the Pass, then scrambled across the Pass, and with the help of the porters, completed the 400m very steep descent down to the bottom of the Pass. From there we trekked for another 12 km, 4.5 hours, down, down, down 800 meters through the muddy pastures, wooded trail and stream crossings to reach our next camp. As the clouds shifted and somewhat lifted during the ascent, we enjoyed some wonderful views of the lake as well as the main range of the Terskey Alatau with its numerous peaks. Descending the other side we crossed the wide Keldike Valley with picturesque views and herds of cattle and flocks of sheep grazing the fertile yet slippery, muddy landscapes. We reached our yurt camp around 4pm. The setting is stunning with a snow topped mountain. Our yurt camp has a flush toilet and warm duvet and blankets on a platform inside the yurt. I tried to dry up our two days worth of wet clothes and enjoyed supper in a warm clean dining yurt. No wifi or showers but there was a charging post and we got to enjoy a warm night’ sleep, minus the multiple trips to the loo during the night.Read more

  • Day 6 -Altyn Arashan Gorge

    August 26 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We enjoyed a free day in Altyn Arachan Gorge with several options available to completely relax, enjoy the hot mineral springs and/or take a 10km hike to Anyr Tor Valley. I chose the later two. Around 10am I took a short hike to the natural hot springs, separate from the resort in the area. There were two quaint spots tucked into the banks by the river. When I returned from that, I followed the trail beside the fir covered banks of the Arachan River to Anyr Tor Valley, getting very close to the snow capped mountains of the Ak-Suu Wall (5022m). The area is famous for it’s hot springs but we had to laugh at that proclamation. The original hot springs ‘resort’ was founded in 1963. Anton booked us a reservation to visit the hot springs there at 4pm. We were horrified by the conditions on offer, and are certain that nothing at the resort has been upgraded since that time. Oh well, when in Rome…… (The smiles on our faces in the photo are totally fake)! We were all disgusted at the cement pond of scum we were supposed to relax in. I lasted 20 minutes and returned to camp and hosed myself down with the outside tap before changing for dinner. My stomach had turned so I passed on the meal and retired for the night. I am chalking that up to yet another ”experience” and don’t want to even think of what was floating on or beneath the surface of that water!Read more

  • Altyn Arachan to Cholpon Ata Town

    August 27 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We left the yurt camp this morning via a large green army style overland vehicle. The choice was walk 7 km through the gorge on narrow rocky roads full of ruts or be driven in this vehicle that scrambled the eggs we ate for breakfast in our stomachs. As we are now very fond of saying, “it was an experience”, just not one to be repeated anytime soon….please. The rides at Disney have nothing on this! After 90 minutes we reached Akul’s home town of Ak-Suu, which translates to white water. He pointed out where he lives and the mountains he played in as a child. From there the road improved and we arrived in Karakol around 11:30am. Yay, Gilles met us there and we all changed to a more comfortable tourist van. Anton is from Karakol and gave us a brief walking tour of the city, showing us the main square and a special church and mosque. We enjoyed a delicious lunch at a local cafe and then continued on bad roads for 3 hours until we reached Cholpon Ata and our beachside resort on the north shore of Issyk-Kul Lake. Boy did that feel like hitting the jackpot after 9 days of hiking and camping! It was sheer luxury and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the property before enjoying a hot shower, sporting some fresh clothes and savouring a pleasant dinner out at the restaurant at the resort.Read more

  • Burana Tower & Balbal Stone Statues

    August 28 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We had a dreamy morning at the Karven Four Seasons Resort, enjoying a leisurely breakfast and heading down to the beach for a swim in the clear, warm waters of Issyk-Kul Lake. It felt like being on vacation, which we deserved after our long, arduous, albeit tremendously rewarding days of roughing it. We left at 11:30 and spent the next 7 hours making our way back to Bishkek, switching us back to travel mode. The journey was broken up with a lunch stop and a visit to Burana Tower, one of the oldest existing minarets in Central Asia. Dating back to the 12th century, it is located in the Karakhanid State. We climbed the dark, narrow steps inside the tower to get a bird’s eye view of the surrounding area, affording us the perspective of soldiers on vigil. Alongside the tower we also explored the collection of intriguing ‘Balbal’ stone statues- a series of curious nomadic tombstones steeped in tradition and superstition. A goodbye dinner back at Navat Restaurant brought the trip to a close and I will cherish all of the wonderful memories made in the last two weeks in Kyrgyzstan with these fine folks.Read more

    Trip end
    August 29, 2025