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  • Jzionna's Wanderings

Portugal 2025

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  • Trip start
    May 5, 2025
    Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings

    Up-up and away I go!

    May 5 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Day One:
    On my way to Portugal. I love the rising morning light when flying out of Medford. The feeling of letting go when lifting off into the wild mysterious yonder is breathtaking! In traveling, we let go of a certain mindset and heartset and allow ourselves to be open for wonder and surprise. What will I see...who will I meet...what obsticles will I need to challenge and overcome? It's always a learning experience of self and reevaluating our significance in this human race.
    I began today in a panick when picking up my boarding pass, as United Air didn't have a record of it. Apparently, I overlooked a certain email confirmation. So, I had to hustle over the phone with an agent with a really heavy accent while standing in a noisy airport until the transaction went through. Thirty minutes later, with a $200 price hike, all was done pre boarding time. Now I get to chill for 8 hours in the Sanfran terminal until boarding my flight to Heathrow airport (London).    Read more

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    5/6 Lisboa ,first night in Portugal

    May 6 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Moist cobblestone streets,
    Bells ringing from trolley cars,
    Slow Lisbon sunsets.

    My flight arrived in Lisbon at 6 pm. I had to do a lot of waiting for flight connections! It was a long time getting here. It's the waiting that is exhausting. I took a cab to my reserved hotel (Hotel Convento do Savador) and was delighted to find my room so neat and clean. Fatima is a helpful and kind hotel manager. She has patiently marked on a map the good places to eat and sights to see.
    I commented on the striking tile work on the lobby wall of the hotel. Now, mind you, it looked like an interesting design. But Fatima says, "You must take a picture of it, then tell me what you see."
    The image that ONLY comes out in a photo, not with the naked eye, is an image of Catarina do Portugal, Dutchess of Braganza. The artist has other pieces around Lisbon ( Pedrita.com, also on facebook Padrita Studio)
    Impressive work!
    Once I got showered and changed (even in my weariest state, the miracle work of a shower always renews me), I took a walk around the neighborhood. The young people are out drinking and howling with their friends. The trolley cars are winding up the steep, narrow streets clanking their bells. Night is folding down on us, and there's a vibrancy in this town.
    I'm told there is a train strike taking place tomorrow, and may last many days. That changes my plans for taking a train to Coimbra from Lisbon on the 9th to begin my walk on the 10th. I suppose I'll be riding
    the bus, along with the crowds and price hike, I'm sure.    Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings

    5/7 Lisboa in Daylight

    May 7 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Ceramic tile art,
    everywhere is eye candy!
    My senses are peeked.

    There are so many patterns everywhere! With tile and cobble stones galore. One has to pay attention to where one steps, for the cobble stones are beautiful but may be treacherous through narrow alleyways of tiled walls. I passed a dog park area with artistically displayed signs at the entrance as several humans with dogs on leashes shuffled up to the doggy social club. I noticed a stone wall with delicate weeds squeezing their way through
    the cracks, and I'm reminded how resilient plants are in finding their way to the light. I want to remember how to be that resilient. Clothing lines are interesting photographs to me. I like the banner of colored laundry hanging on a line to dry, using only sun and wind energy to get the job done. It's an image of orderly, cozy simplicity.
    There is an alley where I saw photo portraits on ceramic plaques in front of different homes. Apparently, the plates are to memorialize the people who once had a significant role of giving generously their service, works, and leadership to the community ( This one is of a woman named Carmelinda).
    There are many stories to be heard, but so little time to hear them all. But I can nibble a bit from each tip of the iceberg as I go.    Read more

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    5/7 Pastel de Nata Lisboa

    May 8–9 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Yes, delish! This is the taste of Lisbon! Can't pass through without having a few of these lucious custards pastries.😋💕at Casa Sao Miguel Lisboa.

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    Well, I never knew!

    May 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Did you know that there could be a urinal for public use right at the edge of an alley off the side of the street?
    That beats peeing on a public building wall, I guess. I just saw this one. Maybe there are more?Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings

    5/7-5/8 Cascais- visiting Emily's Family

    May 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    With the genes
    we share,
    What is more important than
    Warm family hugs?

    Because I am walking Portugal this year, how could I not visit my niece who is living here on the coast?
    When we speak about how the Camino provides, it's more about a state of mind. Allowing the universe to play a part in your life, rather than being fixed on how you think life is supposed to happen. But when we loosen our sails and allow the shifting winds to move through and around us, there is an organic order that is allowed to happen.
    I usually have a bit of anxiety about getting from place to place in foreign cities. But I had the train connection figured out before even boarding the plane. But then there's a train strike. Change of plans, and I had to do more figuring.
    Here's the part about the universe.
    A dear friend, at home, has a friend who also lives in the same town as my niece. She asked if I would deliver a quilt (she made) to her friend in Cascais. That transaction worked well. For the friend had to be in Lisboa to drop her child at an appointment, which then they were able to pick me up for the gift passing and deliver me to my lodging in Cascais. Perfectly choreographed!
    My lodging at Moro's Friend's House was clean and comfortable. I think I had the whole house to myself! I highly recommend staying their if visiting Cascais.
    I dined with Emily and met her beautiful family! I know we don't always have the time we wish to indulge in hours and days with people we love, or want get to love, but I've learned to savor the small, delicious quality of a moment, and be content with that. Watching my children and my siblings' children become successful in doing what they love, or become responsible, loving parents, is the most satisfying reward in life.
    Last picture: Emily packed me a snack bag for the bus ride💖. She's taken to motherhood like a duck to water! 🦆🐥🐣💕    Read more

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    5/8 Coimbra (first stamp!)

    May 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Rio Montego
    Winds beside me as I walk
    Coimbra Evening.

    This is my starting point. I'm not quite sure where I go from here, but I'm figuring out as I go. While walking along the river, I found the declathalon store on top of a hill! How would I ever manage without google Maps? I bought a set of trekking poles, and now I'm ready to go. While walking back to my lodging this evening, I met a young man from Turkey who asked me to take his picture against a view of the town with the sun setting. He was bursting out of his seams with the exciting life he is living and went on to tell me of all the places he's been sent around the world installing software. Young, excited, and the world is his oyster! I wished him well for the rest of his life, and I continued to walk up the hill. His youth, joy, and zest for life are so refreshing! Coimbra is a lovely place, but I'll be on my way first thing in the morning.Read more

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    5/9 One more night in Coimbra

    May 9 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The set schedule cracks,
    Sometimes, we should stay longer
    To catch the magic.

    I stayed one more night to get my bearings and make some connections before I began walking. I stayed in the Albergue "Rainha Santa Isabel. " it's good to connect with other pilgrims before the journey begins. Now I have names and faces of those who will be part of our camino family for the next few weeks. I entered an old Renaissance church today, which is not used any longer for holding services. But there was a showing of the works of two Canadian artists who have fascinating displays there! Janet Cardiff and George Bures Miller collaborate in setting up multimedia sound installations all over the world. Look them up, it's very interesting work. I only have a video of their hanging carousel of mirrors. But there was a lot displayed that tickled my senses.
    In the other video, I'm walking through water with rain boots on, in an old stone basemen. Once upon a time in the late 1500s, this place was a holding tank for rain water. Imagine having a well down in your basement? Now it's a novelty bar. Only open for happy hour at the end of the day. Some people walk down oodles of steps to have a drink while standing at the bar in rain boots. I wonder how coming back up those stairs after a few drinks look? 😬. The cat above the albergue. It's too far for her to jump, so she watches the world from her sill. I call her Rapunzel. This town has been fun. Fourteen miles to the next town tomorrow.    Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings

    5/12 to Albergaria a Nova

    May 12 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I ask myself,
    Who am I doing this for?
    God says be quiet.

    I keep walking quietly and inhale the view. There are orange, lemon, and quince trees all around. I enjoyed the walk near a river that runs through the old Roman Bridge. A small break from the road walking. Most of this walk has been on the road, and much of it has heavy traffic whipping by. I find this more exhausting than hiking mountain sides.
    This albergue has been the nicest stay so far. "REINA D TERESA" Such a roomy, beautiful setup. I shared a room with Lei ( from China). And we breakfast with a couple from South Africa.    Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings

    5/10 to Mealhada

    May 12 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    When you're falling back
    To get to where you're going
    Just enjoy the view.

    I'm trying to stay on top of writing and posting. Though by the time I walk to my destination, there's laundry to wash by hand, shower to take, food to cook all before retiring to bed. I've been having a hard time finding my rhythm. I know it always hurts on the first week of a Camino, and I'm not spared the aches and pain on this one. I stayed in a hotel south of Mealhado (more like a motel room) because no albergues or hotels had available rooms in Mealhado, and I hand that night, and I hadn't pre booked. So I took a taxi 4 miles backward to repeat the walk the next day. It rained hard early in the day but became bright and beautiful again. The owner of Residencial Pinho Verde was happy to show me his birds. He adores them, and you can tell by how well they're taken care of. He was proud of his khoi, too. It was nice to rest in my own room and get a good night's sleep before walking the extra miles the next day.Read more

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    5/11 to Agueda

    May 12 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Quietly, I walk
    Alone without the chatter.
    Stepping with my thoughts.

    I walked across the park where a Sunday antique market was. There are so many interesting old collections of anything you can think of. Here are some beautiful views that struck me today. The tile work is phenomenal. The rooster above the church represents an old legend of the Portuguese Rooster 🐓.
    I'm disappointed that all the churches are closed. Sometimes, there are little chapels unlocked, but rarely.
    I was able to stamp my credential book at the São Tiago statue at the side of a village street.
    I've developed blisters on my toes, and walking is painful. It's a good thing that there is such beauty around to distract me.    Read more

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    Cleanest laundry mat I've ever seen!2111

    5/13 To Oliveira de Azeméis

    May 13 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The rain falls again,
    Filling puddles on the trail.
    Pilgrims slosh along.

    I started out for another rainy day. I was carrying a bag of my wet laundry until I spotted a laundry mat. It's the cleanest laundry facility I've ever seen! I dried my clothes and carried on. There is a lot of road walking, as trucks and cars speed by. More amazing tile work in front of houses.This particular church offered oranges to pilgrims who stopped to collect their stamps. The landscape is continuously amazing. I'm exhausted each day, I barely get my pictures up, falling asleep as I write.
    My favorite couple I've met on this route are these kind South African Dutch walkers. I always look forward to running into them.    Read more

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    5/14 On the way to Porto💖

    May 13–14 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Lusciosness all around
    Walking on cobblestone streets.
    Inhaling its charm.

    Passing an elderly woman who gave me a thumbs up was extra fuel of encouragement for my journey today.

    Because the only lodging in the town of Albergaria a Velha is a large Dighton Hotel, I stayed there last night for not being able to find any other lodging ( its not a town that accomodates pilgrims but I had reached my maximum steps for the day). Though outside my budget, a hot bath to soak in and a fine warm bed was worth it, and the morning buffet I took with relish.
    I walked 10 miles this morning. The trail took me off the road through trees of lemon-scented gum, cider gum, virginia pine, and english oak.
    From São Jojo da Madeira, I hopped on a bus to Porto (another 21 miles by bus). It's good to be in Porto. It's a beautiful city, gorgeous architecture everywhere you look! There's a whole lot of construction going on, too.
    I found an available bed at Pilot Hostel, an attic room with 10 beds, not bunk beds. Centrally located in the hustle and bustle of downtown.
    While passing a bookstore, I noticed their window tower of books. A book with Trump on the cover (intrepreted) "The Collaps of the truth." See how they have it displayed, alongside Pinocchio? Brilliant!    Read more

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    More of 5/14 At Sunset

    May 14 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    It's quite an event above Porto. Over the bridge, bars with windshields look over the river, and people come from all around to watch the sunset. It's quite a social hour! Seagulls stare at us from the other side of the shield in the hopes that someone will flip a chip to them.Read more

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    5/15 Day 2 in Porto

    May 15–17 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    You love where you are,
    Then you love to get going,
    still so much to see!

    Strange sleeping arrangement. I hear the people begin to rise and bump their heads on this attic room ceiling. We all bonk our heads at some point here. This Camino demands a lot more tech support than the other walks. If I didn't use Gronze app on my phone for mapping where to go, I would be lost. A charger battery is a must for backup because the battery drains fast. I visited Saint Vicent Chapel and got a stamp on my credential, an embossed stamp.
    After a day around the town, I stopped for lunch and again needed to recharge my phone (there's no way I could find my way back to my albergue without gps directions).
    I had a glass of Kopke fine white port with lunch, a delicous treat. Porto is stuffed full with tourists. It's been stimulating, but I'm ready to get out of the city and back to walking. Tomorrow, I will get an early start, I have 17 miles to get to Vilarinho.    Read more

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    5/15 Visiting St. Vincent Chapel

    May 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    What words can I say?
    One can only watch in awe.
    Words are not enough.

     I'm running low on vocabulary, or I'm too exhausted to conjure up words worth reading after long days. But today is brief. Cathedrals always bring me to my knees. The thought of mere man having the ability to manifest something so incredibly detailed and majestic is no doubt done by a force greater than the human self alone. ✨️Creative, Holy Spirit, all great and powerful.✨️Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings
    He looks like a good listener.1Impressive train depot in Porto.The metro stationFrom my bedroom window.My charming room for the night.1Hanging clothes by the roses.1

    5/16 On my way to Vilarinho

    May 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Bed by a window
    In an old monastary,
    Soft lulluby breeze.

    I woke at 5 this morning, feeling ready for another days walk. A yellow vested man (standing as proud as a hero) helped me with the ticket vendor machine at the metro center. I took the metro out of the suburban spread of Porto to Moreira(13k). I stepped off into the countryside, with that familiar smell of cow manure. I was content to be back on the country road again. I gps my way back to the camino route.
    On my way, I met a young man from Australia. He says he's been dreaming of doing this for years. Now turning 30, he finally has the opportunity. Together, we sat at a roadside café and drank our morning coffee. I ordered a sumo de naranja ( fresh squeezed orange juice) along with a nata custard pastry. I bought one for Ben, telling him that this is the taste of Portugal. He gladly inhaled it. We brushed through the bits of our lives and exchanged our "pleasure to meet you," and then he sprinted away. I lumbered on. I'm only walking 10 to 12 miles each day. That's what feels best for me. I then have plenty of time for clothes washing, preparing a meal, taking the time to absorb my surroundings, and for writing a bit. I think I've got my rhythm down now, a lot less hectic and painless. More people are showing up, even some people whome I haven't seen since the beginning of my walk. We're all feeling lighter now and friendlier. Most of us have found our groove.
    This 11th century Monastery was a perfect land today. It has the mystery of history in it, and it's well taken care of. I was the first to arrive before opening time, but the kind fellows let me in early. I was washed, had clothes hung, and I had first choice of bed before the swarm came in. There was donation food left by others, and I was able to cook up a pan of spagetti to share. This has been one of those shiny star days of my journey! I'm feeling quite happy. I love the sound of the birds here!    Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings
    Table set for breakfast. Morning chats over toast and coffee, then off to another day of walking.
    1

    5/17 On my way to São Pedro de Rates

    May 17 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Coming and leaving,
    All days now blend together.
    But today is here.

    I woke early in the morning to find neatly set tables for breakfast.
    This old monastery was a perfect place to get laundry done, eat a full meal, and enjoy a good nights rest.Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings
    Following the yellow brick road for a mile.122

    5/18 To Aborim

    May 18 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Roosters crow all day,
    The trees are thick with bird songs,
    And the church bells clang.

    Lei and I settled into Casa de Santiago, a shared house with 9 beds. A very kind host, Sonja, signed us in and offered cheese, fruit, bread, and wine. She even gave us a miniture wooden rooster keepsake. We began singing, "Our house is a very, very,very fine house." We felt so fortunate to have found this little jewel for the night.
    The walk was gorgeous today. Slightly overcast, perfect walking weather. For a mile, I was following a yellow brick road. It just added to the enchantment of the day.    Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings
    6:am walking.
    TamarilloA shop window.Kindergarten art from plastic bottles.

    More from 5/18

    May 18 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Walking at sunrise is the nicest time of day.
    There are too many pictures to post. There is so much beauty everywhere!

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings
    Snails come out everywhere after a rain shower. One has to watch where you step!1Ah, beautiful morning walking in the quiet.1Cala lillies, most common flower here.1When I peeked over the ledge off the trail.Entering Ponte de Lima2A massage in the cool grass does wonders for hot, aching, tired feet!This is only one section of a large outdoor market that covers 5 blocks long.Cueing up to enter into this municiple Albergue.Basic accommodations, but the price was cheap.Little eating nooks everywhere.Evening in Ponte de Lima.

    5/19 to Ponte de Lima

    May 19 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Unexpected rain,
    Phantom walkers in ponchos
    Mucking through mud trails.

    I sure didn't expect rain,
    but at 4 a.m., the sky opened, and it poured. By the time I began walking at 6:00, the rain took a pause. The sunrise could be seen with the parting of the clouds. I'm walking through agricultural land, cobble stones, and trails and quaint villages now. I almost missed a yellow arrow because a school bus was parked before the path as it was picking up a school boy. I passed the bus and kept walking. A mother of the boy, who I hadn't noticed from across the street, yelled and pointed behind me, "Over there!" I blew her a kiss, thanking her, for she saved me from another back tracking. It showered off and on through the day. I kept the poncho accessible. The municiples are very basic. Someday, it's kind of hard enduring so much chatter. Especially the Italian men. They yell at one another, riveting words with such speed and force. It sounds like one could get hurt if you got in between their crossfire. My feet ache with blisters. I take my shoes off whenever I can and message my feet in the cool grass.Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings
    Morning along a road of grapevines.
    The contrast of modern and ancient.Cemetery against the sunrise.Walking through many fern forrests.Flowers drape the walls.1Reservoirs like this on many farm properties.So much to choose from this morning. Love these cafés after 3 hours walking.Tight squeeze tonight, 28 to a room. All full. Some mattresses on the floor downstairs. $8. Beds!😁1A common sound. These Asian creature sounds are frogs!

    To Rubiães

    May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Walking more swiftly
    Through the land of Portugal.
    One more day with you.💖

    I am swiftly walking now. My blisters are healing, and I've switched over to sandals to walk in. I love walking with open toes. My whole attitude has changed, now walking without pain.
    The frogs sound like strange alien creatures. They're at every body of water. I'm running into familiar faces through every day. We all know our clan now, meeting at every municiple albergue. With warm greeting and encouraging one another along, it is a great support group.
    Juan from Spain doctored my blister on my toe yesterday, and my foot is new again. I'm enjoying every bit of time I have here, obsorbing every fleeting moment.    Read more

  • Jzionna's WanderingsPortugal 2025Jzionna's Wanderings
    1Last day in Portugal!
    Many of these I pass, stone alters. After a kiss and saying a prayer, I add a stone.3Hola, España🇪🇸!0ld Roman Bridge.1I was tempted, but I passed it by.121Adios, obrigado Portugal!21Walking the bridge to Tui with Sylvia and her son Julian (from Germany).1After a long hot walk, a cold beer is the best drink.Cat lady Ruth. Takes care of the strays daily.We came accross her at the time her daily feeding.1

    5/21/2025 To Tui Spain🇪🇸

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Sweet farewell to you.
    Jasmine smell will linger on.
    Foot prints left behind.

    Today, I walked the last day in Portugal. Entering Spain to Tui by crossing the river over a bridga. My room in this albergue overlooks the river to Portugal. I'm really enjoying walking now without painful feet. I rarely drink beer, but after a full days walk on the Camino, a cold beer at the end of the day sure hits the perfect spot.Read more

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