Yamagishi Ryokan, Kawaguchiko

So the bus from Gotenba deposited me at Kawaguchiko station. I'm still wearing my hiking gear (including boots) but it's 29 degrees here and I'm carrying around a dry bag and a day pack. I stop by the ryokan where I will be staying. Check in isn't until 3 but I can leave my dry bag there until I check in. My luggage has made it from Tokyo, huzzah!

When I do check in I'm taken through the formalities of dinner and breakfast, both supplied for the duration. I show the staff my dietary requirements in Japanese which causes considerable angst. So a tip for you coeliacs out there: either don't stay at a ryokan or put up with the meals and avoid the obvious gluten traps.

The first two photos show my room (529) before and after dinner. So bedding is prepared while I'm eating (3rd photo). No footwear is worn at dinner or in the room. There is a small landing next to my door and a shoe rack. There is a low table for meals, impossible for a middle aged caucasian such as myself to negotiate, and also a smaller but crucially higher table which is more suitable.

Dinner time is either 6pm or 6:30. Breakfast is 7:30, 8 or 8:30. I've asked for the 6:30 dinnertime and 7:30 breakfast time. I find the breakfast not so suitable so will skip the last 2. It will now be the GF weetbix, some yoghurt, cheese, fruit and cold coffee. Breakfast of champions, what!

The ryokan has an onsen (public bath) available at no charge to guests. I've been once but didn't feel greatly improved. I think the 35 minute in-room massage was more effective. The Mt Fuji hike has definitely taken it out of me!Læs mere