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August - September 2017
A 36-day adventure by Tim In Japan Read more
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  • TravelerJapan 1
    Day 12

    Driving in Japan

    September 3, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Road rules are very similar to those in Australia, and it's definitely a plus that they also drive on the left side. That said, there are a few observations to be made.
    Roundabouts and one way streets. These don't seem to exist, although it's possible that I've gone the wrong way down a one way street. Unlikely as it would be signposted. I wonder what Japanese drivers make of roundabouts when they drive here?
    Road maintenance men. They are the matadors of the road, brandishing red flags to stop traffic and white flags with elaborate gestures for traffic to continue.
    Speeding. Everyone speeds outside of the cities. Some speed limits are definitely too low. If you want to drive at or under the speed limit, be prepared to be tailgated by a convoy. I drive to the conditions and see what other drivers are doing. There are speed cameras so I rely on their local knowledge.
    Rain. The roads don't seem to have adequate drainage so there are many MANY puddles when it rains. Large trucks coming the other way can create a tsunami that lands squarely on the windscreen.
    Road etiquette. Drivers are quite polite and unagressive. I haven't seen any road rage, I don't think it's in the national character. Quite a relief for me as they tend to be tolerant of my driving!
    Toll roads. These are prohibitively expensive, potentially 50AUD for 200 km. Fortunately both Google Maps and the car GPS support route editing to exclude toll roads. I inadvertently found myself on one the other day and I had to make a U-turn quite sharpish.
    Tunnels. If you're wanting to drive through scenic countryside, then you will encounter many tunnels. The longest I've driven through would be around 2km. How much money do they spend on infrastructure here?
    Hazard lights. Turn these on if you need to street park. Leave your car there as long as you like, even if you're blocking traffic.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    31
    Day 13

    Nagano to Kanazawa

    September 4, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It's a long drive to Kanazawa today. Firstly the route takes me west to Hakuba, which is a popular ski resort, although quiet at this time of year. The first photo is of an Open Garden area there.
    The route then takes me north through Otari to Itoigawa on the Toyama Bay coast. Quite spectacular views of both mountains and coastline. I have video only of this.
    From here it's west past Toyoma to Kanazawa. Lots of traffic, some congestion and not much scenery. I take a photo of a Honda S660 roadster (for you Joe) which looks pretty cool.
    I reach Kanazawa and pass my hotel on the left. I strain my eyes looking for hotel parking but there are workmen outside the hotel so I park in a street lot. Around $7AUD for the day, which is much better than hotel rates. I move my car to the hotel tower park the next day. Basically my car goes into a lift which goes up and dispatches my car somewhere on a higher floor. Problematic if you want to grab anything out of the car later! When you ask for your car, the process is reversed and the car rotates on a carousel in the lift. So you can drive it out directly without reversing.
    Anyway I check into my room at Hotel Mystays. It's a double SMOKING room of an impressive size (last 2 photos) but the cigarette smell is overwhelming on first entry. A/C helps but the smell is in the pillowcase and towels. That's the only downside as the hotel has a small gym and a free laundry. I use both of course.
    It also offers room service so I order a grilled pork on rice and lettuce meal for around 8AUD. Very filling! This hotel is better at catering to international tourists than the others I've stayed at. Highly recommended as long as you book a non-smoking room!    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    Day 14

    Kenrokuen Garden

    September 5, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Kanazawa was spared Allied bombing during WWII as it contained no military targets. It was the 2nd largest city in Japan (after Kyoto) to have that distinction.
    Kenrokuen Garden is one of the top 3 gardens in the country and has been designated as a national site of special scenic beauty. There are tourist buses that run clockwise and anti-clockwise around Kanazawa's cultural precinct so access is pretty easy. I spent close to an hour walking around the garden. It also offers panoramic views of the city. More catfish spotted, thankfully they're not the same size as those in South America (as seen on River Monsters, if you've never seen it do yourself a favour!)Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    2
    Day 14

    Kanazawa Castle Park

    September 5, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    So across the road from Kenrokuen Garden is the Castle Park. They offer a 30 minute guided English tour, which today is conducted for my benefit by Atsuko. She grew up in Kanazawa and studied Mathematics 20 years ago at the University when it was located in the Castle Park. Prior to then it was also used as army barracks. These days the Castle Park is heritage listed.
    So the Maeda family used to be the 2nd richest family in Japan after the Shogun himself. They built the castle in 1583 with elaborate defenses and considerable weaponry, but it was never attacked. Unfortunately parts of the castle were destroyed by fire in the past but some buildings have been reconstructed. The Ishikawamon Gate is the main gate and a highlight of the castle.
    Atsuko leaves me near the Gyokusenin-maru Garden. Originally it was attached to a villa built by the 3rd lord for the widow of the 2nd lord. The villa is long gone but the garden still remains.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    11
    Day 15

    Ainokura and Shirakawa-go

    September 6, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    So the weather is a bit crook in Kanazawa today. Not much value in walking around the city so I decide to drive to Shirakawa-go.
    Along with Ainokura and Suganuma, Shirakawa-go is World Heritage listed because they contain gassho-style houses. Most of these houses are 100 to 200 years old but the oldest could be 400 years old.
    The houses have been built to withstand heavy snowfall with an alpine like shape and are built from local trees. No nails are used.
    I find that while it might not be raining on my drive, there is considerable fog. This gives an eerie look to some of the photos.
    I drop in to Ainokura village first. It costs 500 yen (6 AUD) to park and look around. There aren't too many other cars here so it's comfortable to browse around. I took a number of photos with eerie fog backgrounds.
    I drive through Suganuma and notice more gassho-style houses. By the time I get to Shirakawa-go it is later in the day. There are a horde of tourists here so I backtrack to Kanazawa, where it's still raining albeit quite lightly.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    1
    Day 16

    Noto Peninsula

    September 7, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    So it's time to leave (currently wet) Kanazawa to go to Toyama. It's not much over 60km between the two cities. Since I have all day to get there, I plan to take the long way round by driving north up the West coast of the Noto peninsula, crossing over to the East coast of the peninsula then driving through to Toyama.
    It sort of turns out that way, but bear in mind that driving in Japan always takes longer than you expect. The weather is also a factor but not at first. The way north from Kanazawa takes me on to an expressway, which is easy driving but not scenic. No tolls in this area, thank goodness.
    I decide to visit Myojoji Temple on the way through. It was founded by the Buddhist Saint Nichizo in 1294. There is some rain so I've put on a rain jacket. The monk that sells me a ticket lends me an umbrella anyway and tells me to walk clockwise through the site, which includes a pagoda, hall, tomb, cemetery, pond and garden. I don't walk into the buildings as my shoes are muddy.
    From here the weather starts to deteriorate and I've lost network coverage. I cross over to a town called Nanao on the peninsula east coast. I park in the Nanao Art Museum car park and eat my lunch while it rains outside.
    I put on my waterproof gear and go for a walk in the rain. This takes me past an area called Komaruyamajoshi Park. It contains walking trails that go past a number of shrines (last 3 photos). Very pleasant, even in the rain.
    Eventually I go back to the car and head towards my hotel in Toyama. The rain becomes heavier for prolonged periods but thankfully has eased up by the time I get to the hotel.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    2
    Day 18

    Kurobe Gorge

    September 9, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This is what I hope will be a highlight of my first stint in Japan. People come for the day from far flung Tokyo and Kyoto. I'd prefer not to do this on the weekend but today's weather is near perfect, better than yesterday's.
    It turns out to be a long day as I leave the hotel at 7:30 and return a bit before 5pm. It is possible to get to Unazuki station (the starting point of the Kurobe Gorge train) by public transport but it's more convenient to drive.
    The route takes me ENE around Toyama Bay to Kurobe and then SSE into the mountains to Unazuki. I buy a ticket at 8:53 for the 9am train. There are 3 stations after Unazuki where one can stop. Tickets can be bought at each station. I decide to go to the last station (Keyakidaira) and am the last person to board the train. I'm sitting in the regular (ie. cheap) carriage, which is open to the elements and contains backless bench seats. There is some spray that comes through in the tunnels but that's all part of the adventure.
    The other people on the train are mostly families and elderly people. Most don't stray too far from the station when we disembark at Keyakidaira station. There are a couple of trails to onsen and open air hot baths that are close to the Babadani river. This river looks like it would be used to generate hydroelectric power. There is a strong smell of sulphur around the hot baths. It's a very warm day, last thing I need is a hot bath!
    Opposite the Meiken onsen across a bridge, I take my shirt off for a little while so it can dry out. There's noone around, I'm in the shade and there's a nice breeze. It seems appropriate somehow.
    Back at the station, I buy some lunch in the upstairs bistro. In the land of vending machines, I put in money and push lucky button #24 to order a beef curry. A ticket prints with the number 580 on it. This number will be called out when my meal is ready, which is a slight hitch as I don't know the Japanese number system. I take the approach of waiting to see if anyone picks up a meal after a number is called. This fortunately works!
    I buy a ticket for a brief stopover at Kinetsura station, which is the next station along. Then it's back to Unazuki in the cheap seats, then home!    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    3
    Day 20

    Matsumoto

    September 11, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    <rant>
    If you like wide streets and big 4WDs, don't come to Matsumoto. I'm staying in a place that is on the canal. It is on a narrow lane ("street" would be an exaggeration) that supports 2 way traffic along with cyclists and pedestrians. I will never complain about Brisbane cyclists again!
    I miss the turn off to my destination because the car GPS tells me to turn down what appears to be a footpath. It is actually navigable by car (if you hold your breath). As to the left turn at the end of this footpath, there could be pedestrians, cyclists and 2 way car traffic to contend with .
    </rant>
    Route 158 into Matsumoto is in part a narrow track through the mountains with a tree canopy, switchbacks and hairpin turns. The Kamikaze spirit lives on in the local motorists. Being a Sunday, there are many hikers out and about. Matsumoto is the most touristed town I've been in since Kawaguchiko and there are a number of other Westerners staying at the Ryokan, including a couple from Geelong.
    I visited Matsumoto-jo, which is the local castle and was built in the late 16th century (like the other castles I've visited). Must have been turbulent times. The castle tour entails walking/climbing up very steep stairs to the 6th floor keep. I'm always on guard for low beams!
    That evening I dine at an Indian popup eatery called Doon Shokudo Indoyama. It's a one man show owned and run by an expat Indian called Ashish. He has good reviews on Trip Advisor which appeals to the young Mittel European travellers that I see there. I have a chicken curry which he cooks while chatting. He has a brother in Orange (NSW) which surprises me.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    122
    Day 21

    The Capsule Experience

    September 12, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    So I want to go from Matsumoto to Hokkaido. Rather than flying (which would be waaay too convenient) I've decided from the get go to take a bullet train to Sapporo, which is the Hokkaido major city.
    So I drive to Nagano, weather isn't great again, and drop off the car to the Toyota rental place there. Now I wheel my megaluggage to the train station (which is fortunately not far) and buy a shinkansen (bullet train) ticket to Tokyo via a vending machine. So far so good. It takes around 90 minutes to travel between Nagano and Tokyo. The leg room is surprisingly spacious in the seats, and there are no issues in reclining them. While it will always be quicker to fly, it is more convenient and comfortable to travel by shinkansen.
    Tokyo Station is huge as it services metro lines, shinkansen lines and regular JR (train) lines. I find the east exit as I want to drop my megaluggage at the Nishonbashi Bay Hotel. This gives me a couple of hours to wander around. It's good to be back in Tokyo! I haven't been around this area before so I walk to Chiyoda Park, which houses the Imperial Palace. Whilst that is off limits, it is free to walk through the East Gardens. They are substantial in their own right and deserve more time than I can give.
    Back at the hotel, I check in and am given a locker key and a floor card for pod 510. The locker isn't that big so my megaluggage will stay in storage on the 2nd floor. There is a guest lounge on the 2nd floor as well with a TV, powerpoints and the ubiquitous vending machines.
    I go out to eat at a local English-style pub called the Rose and Crown. I can sit at the bar and eat a meal there, which is tres convenient. I order the roast beef as it comes with vegetables (something I crave) and drink a couple of ginger highballs. The pub fills up while I'm there, mostly local workers letting off steam after work.
    Back at the hotel, the time eventually comes to take to the capsule. I'm conveniently 😣 on the top tier so I have to scale a ladder in and out. The capsule itself is reasonably spacious and has fan and light controls. It also has a light shade that pulls down and locks into place. While it is reasonably sound proof, you do hear people coming in and out of the capsule area. I think this is the reason that I wake up from time to time (and not the feeling that the walls are closing in). It's one of the things you try once, it only cost 57AUD and it's a valid stopover option.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    Day 22

    Tokyo to Sapporo

    September 13, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So I have a ticket for a shinkansen to Hakodate, which is a southern town on the island of Hokkaido. I have 12 minutes there to transfer to a JR line train which will take me to Sapporo. All up I will be travelling for 7 3/4 hours. Bear in mind my Brisbane to Tokyo flight took 9 hours.

    My shinkansen leaves from Tokyo station at 8:20 am. The station is a tad busy at that time of the morning and steering my megaluggage through the worker horde is challenging. All the more so as I need to go to track 21 and the clock is ticking. I eventually find the escalator to the right track with under 5 minutes to spare. I've run up a bit of a sweat and my right hand is bleeding for some unknown reason. It's a jungle out there!

    On board the train I cool down and relax. It's a smooth ride through Northern Honshu, then underground to Hokkaido. I make the transfer OK with time to walk extra distance to use the escalator rather than hauling my luggage up the stairs. It's a bit after 4pm when the train pulls into Sapporo.

    There's been some rain during the day but not at the moment. I decide to wheel my megaluggage 2km to the hotel, not the only one doing this! Later on I ring Aunty Joan via Skype to wish her a happy 90th birthday. I tell her I'm in Sapporo but it takes a while for the penny to drop that I'm not in Australia. She's had a big day so blame that.    Read more

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