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A 37-day adventure by Tim In Japan Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 28, 2017
    Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    1Live seafood in local Hongdae restaurant

    Seoul (Hongdae)

    September 28, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The flight into Seoul's Incheon Airport is on time. This airport has a reputation for efficiency, it certainly is quick for baggage claim and Customs. The immigration component, I'm in the "Foreigners" queue with mostly Chinese people. At the counter there's fingerprinting, retinal scanning and a quick rectal probe. Just kidding, the rectal probe is a Customs thing of course 😥

    I have prepaid for a 30 day data SIM card that I need to pick up from a booth in the arrivals hall. I find the booth, pick up the SIM and install it while sitting close by. A quick reboot and, presto, I'm connected. I didn't expect any problems as I'm now in Samsung Land and have brought late model Samsung gear with me.

    I take the 6002 bus and decamp at "Wedding Town". The hostel where I'm staying is in Hongdae which is an older part of Seoul comprising alleys. I find it difficult to orient myself walking around and Google Maps isn't as effective here as in Japan.

    I walk down to the park next to the river. The traffic is heavy along the bordering expressways. Much calmer in the park, which has an open air gym and plenty of dog walkers.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Palace information
    5Lunch - Pork stir fry

    Changdeokgung Palace

    September 29, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    There are a number of royal accommodations in Seoul City. Changdeokgung Palace is the 2nd palace but took prominence when the main palace (Gyeongbokgung) was destroyed by fire (since rebuilt). It's considered by some to be the most picturesque palace (bit of a nothing statement).

    First I want to buy a travel card (known as T Money here). These cards can be used on buses and subways in most of the cities in the ROK. There are discounts for each trip, also means I don't have to communicate with bus drivers! I find a store that sells them and load about 33AUD onto it. Then it's off to the palace ...

    My travel info says that English guided tours are offered at 10:30. I'm at the ticket office by 10 and pay 3.30 for the ticket and wander around. It turns out the tour starts at 10:15 so I miss out on the first few minutes. It's been difficult to preserve these palaces what with fires and Japanese occupation. The grounds are extensive and are 60% made up of gardens (which I won't see today).

    It's a thing for girls to hire hanbok (traditional dress) and pose for endless photos. Some western girls do it as well - cultural appropriation anyone?

    I walk to the Bukchon village information centre. An English-speaking guide there takes me on a short tour explaining the nature of the housing there. As there's so much wood in the housing, fire has been a constant threat. I eat lunch at a nearby restaurant (see photo) which is pork stir fry with side dishes of seafood soup, black beans, spinach and kimchi.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    The Bell of Peace at Imjingak Peace Park
    Reunification monument at Imjingak Peace ParkBrotherhood monument at Imjingak Peace ParkThe 3rd tunnel monumentNorth Korea!Not a selfie for a change ... North Korean backdrop

    The DMZ

    September 30, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I'll admit that this is the number 1 reason I've come to the ROK. It costs 46,000 won (51 AUD) for a half day tour but it's worth it. I'm picked up at 8:30 by Seoul City Tours and pay the tour guide Gemma (her Western name, she's a local).

    We pick up more people so around 10 of us are travelling in a minibus. We all bring passports to make sure no spies are on board. I try to match my expression to my passport photo, but that scowling hurts my face if I do it for too long ☹

    The first stop is the Imjingak Peace Park. It has a pretty park, souvenir shops of course and some views. I think we have around 25 minutes here, Gemma keeps us to a tight schedule. There are a number of monuments and statues here, see first 3 photos.

    What comes through from the day is the desire for reunification within the ROK. However, relations between the two countries aren't great at the moment. The ROK started investing in a PRK industrial complex around 20 years ago but have discontinued that as the PRK were spending the revenue from the complex on their nuclear program.

    There's also a lot of propaganda. We sit in a cinema and a video presentation takes us through the event timeline after WWII that leads to the Korean War. The video shows representations of 3 tunnels dug by the PRK into the ROK and discovered by the ROK in the 1970s.

    We stop at a viewpoint that overlooks the border. A soldier comes on board the minibus to do a passport check. At the disembarkation point, there are viewers that allow a closer look at North Korea. I've taken some video as the PRK are broadcasting propaganda music (an antidote to KPop). I take a photo for a Peruvian couple and they reciprocate.

    Part of the tour includes walking down tunnel 3, which is our next port of call. This apparently will take us down 25 stories (which we then have to walk up) so it takes some time. A ramp takes us down, then there is a reasonably level walk through the tunnel. We're wearing safety helmets as the tunnel roof is quite low in parts. I bump my head once - general mirth from tourists coming the other way. Also, no phones or cameras allowed!

    I power back up the ramp, it's a good cardio workout. This buys me some time to walk around some pretty gardens in the vicinity.

    Our final DMZ stop is Dorasan station. Its of interest because it is the only INTERNATIONAL train station in the ROK. It is connected to the PRK train network but currently runs services to Seoul only. Should reunification take place, it will be part of the network that runs through Asia and Europe.

    For sponsorship reasons, the tour makes a trip to a Ginseng Centre on the way back. It's all hard sell now! I used to take Korean Ginseng tablets back in the 90s but I have no idea if they were effective. So I don't purchase and head for the exit, which means going through the shop. Big entrance, little exit.

    Finally some of us are dropped off at City Hall. We drive past a venue advertising the Fever Festival (broadcast by V Live). A huge queue of Kpop young folk are gathered. Its 2pm and I'm hungry 😩    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    1The huddled masses

    Seoul Fireworks Night

    September 30, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Each year around a million Seoul residents gather to watch fireworks from Yeouinaru Park. There are numerous family-oriented activities that run during the day but after 7pm the fireworks are the main draw. Sort of like Riverfire without the aircraft ...

    I take the subway to Gongdeok, where I change lines for the line going to Yeouinaru Park (2 stops). I'm standing at the end of the platform to maximize my chances. The first train comes and ... it's full, or near enough so I don't get on board. The 2nd train comes and ... it's the same as the first. I sense a pattern.

    So I exit the station and walk to the Mapo Bridge, as do many, many others. Many people set up on both sides of the bridge to watch the fireworks. I stand behind the pram of a family so I have a good view (discounting the tree that's in the way!)

    Take some photos and the first session of fireworks are done. I don't stay for the next set, but it's very slow trying to push through the crowd. Once I'm off the bridge it's much easier going. Easy to take trains now!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    The War Memorial
    The War MemorialThe Statue of Brothers4Korean War artwork, installed to commemorate 50 years of the armisticeThird country in after the US and UK (sounds familiar)Gone but not forgotten

    The War Memorial of Korea

    October 1, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Seoul is very quiet on a Sunday morning. There's also drizzle around so it won't be a good day for outdoors. I'm an early riser, I figure I should visit a museum that opens around 9am. The War Memorial of Korea fits the bill nicely.

    There are a couple of statues and monuments at the front of the complex. There's a display discussing the genesis of the modern ROK armed forces (all after 1948) and displays discussing the battles fought by various battalions. All very compelling.

    Closer to the entrance is a "United Nations" commemoration of all countries that contributed troops and/or medical staff to the war. Far flung countries such as the Philippines and Colombia were contributors as well as the usual suspects (I'm not being critical here, it's just a saying).

    Inside I'm able to join an English guided tour, much detail about the background to the Korean War and how countries lined up behind the protagonists.

    There's so much to see but I'm extremely hungry so I make tracks for a Mexican restaurant called Gusto Taco. The owner (Aaron) is a 50 year old New Yorker who understands GF and recommends a bowl of slow cooked pork burritos. I duly comply and he comes over for more conversation while I'm eating. Turns out he spent 20 years in IT on Wall Street and is still interested in the field. We chat about quantum computing and blockchain, as you do. He tells me a lot of Westerners struggle with Korean food because they want to try everything. Really enjoyable experience.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Heungnymun Gate
    1Geunjeongjeon Hall1Inside Sajeongjeon HallCeremonial performance1A Korean Magpie

    Gyeongbokgung Palace

    October 2, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It's the beginning of 8 days of public holidays. Normally it costs 3,000 won ($3.30) to enter the royal palaces, but it's free on public holidays. Downside is that there are no English guided tours, so I'm on my own.

    There are performances reenacting traditional palace rituals. I take some video as one is going on and then a photo of the protagonists at the end.

    There are of course some gardens in the palace vicinity. I watch the activities of some squirrels (irresistibly cute) and take a photo of a Korean magpie. They are the dominant bird species in Seoul and are much smaller than their Australian cousins. Their birdcall is an endearing chuckling noise, making a refreshing change from the crows in Hokkaido.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Seoul from Namsan Park
    N Seoul Tower1Seoul from Namsan ParkOn the way down from Namsan ParkOn the way down from Namsan ParkOn the way down from Namsan Park

    Namsan Park

    October 2, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The day has warmed up nicely. The sky is mostly cloudless unlike yesterday with its occasional drizzle. I want to take advantage of the weather by going to the N Seoul Tower observatory.

    The tower is in Namsan Park, which in itself has some elevation. Some people walk uphill to the park from lower Namsan, but owing to the heat I opt to take the cable car up and walk back down later.

    Anyway it looks like half of Seoul have a similar idea. I'm in a queue for the ticket line. Fortunately there's shade and a place to rest my daypack, albeit a tad close to the electrified fence, as the queue moves from outside the building to inside. Then I pay 6000 won ($6.50) for the one way trip and walk upstairs to the boarding area, also known as queue number 2.

    Eventually we all cram into a cable car. As I'm not one of the first to board I don't have any photo ops going up. We disembark, it has taken at least an hour from go to whoa. I walk over to the Tower Observatory ticket booth and see that it's another half hour wait to go up to the observatory. I'm all queued out for the time being, maybe another day.

    So I walk around Namsan Park for a while, then go inside the shopping area for some refreshment. There's a cafe selling frappucinos and I'm lucky enough to find a seat nearby. First rest I've taken since walking to Gyeongbokgung Palace earlier this morning. I take my time enjoying the frappucino.

    After half an hour or so I decide to walk back down. There are a number of people walking both up and down, I'm sort of envious of those walking up as they've avoided the queuing experience. On the downside, some of them look absolutely knackered.

    There's a mother and young son walking down, the boy is counting the steps in English (as far as 10 anyway, after that he's back to 1). I compliment him on his English.

    It's a fair way downhill to get back to the subway. There's more shopping around this area (both Hoehyeon and Myeongdong underground) than where I'm staying.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Hiking trails
    1View of North West Seoul11

    Hiking in the Bukhansan National Park

    October 3, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This was a fun morning. So it's the Chuseok holiday and lots of places are closed. The weather's great so I decide to do some hiking.

    Seoul is blessed with numerous hiking trails given it's built around 4 mountains. The trail I want to follow is in the Bukhansan National Park, to the NW of my hotel.

    This entails taking the subway to Dokbawi station and proceeding from there. There are a few fellow hikers in the area when I disembark. They're all kitted out similarly, hiking boots, long hiking pants, colourful hiking jacket and 2 hiking poles. I look nothing like this, of course, the only thing I have in common are the boots.

    I reach the start of the hiking trail (1st photo). The trail I choose is the red arrowed one, bottom left signpost. The "peaks" are Jokduribong and Bibong. It starts off fine but soon becomes more "scrambly", if I can say that. Three men my age or older are following me. They power up the rocks with their hiking poles. However the views over Seoul are epic so I take photos when the trail reaches a clearing. All 5 subsequent photos were taken at this time.

    There is a camaraderie amongst hikers, so I receive (and give) more greetings than would be the case just walking in a park. One hiker talks to me for some time in Korean, while he catches his breath. We're both enjoying the view at the time.

    As I have no hiking poles it does limit me to less difficult ascents. The poles aren't a huge asset ascending but I find them invaluable in descending as they reduce the weight going through the knees. I considered buying poles to bring with me but they would have been too difficult to pack. So I rented 2 for the Mt Fuji hike, none since. I reach the point at which I know it will be painful descending ...

    I backtrack to the signposts shown in the first photo and take the Seoul trail. This seems to run along the southern edge of the park and through some of suburbia before going back into the park. People of all ages are enjoying the trail. It's not as strenuous as the first trail, until I decide to take one uphill that I subsequently find also leads to Jokduribong.

    Back down to thd road there is a park where you can stretch (outdoor gym) as well as clean your boots. From there it is a trudge back to Dokbawi station, tired but well exercised.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Hanbok-wearing princesses
    Hanok village houseChuseok tradition - pounding the doughBackdrop of city against Hanok VillageIf you want to wear hanbok, come here

    Namsangol Hanok Village

    October 4, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    It's my last day in Seoul. I have a ticket for the 12:45 train to Suwon - bought online and kindly printed by hotel reception. This means that I have some hours to go before I leave for Seoul station.

    The Namsangol Hanok Village is around 2km due south of my hotel so it's a reasonable walk to get to it. Still Chuseok, plenty of tourists in the village (why are they not at home with their families?). Lots of hanbok out today, shops like the one in the last photo must do a roaring trade!

    There are stalls set up selling souvenirs, also traditional Chuseok activities. A person might wield a large hammer and pound dough on a wooden board. There's also a type of hacky sack involving a tinsel-like object and spinning tops by using a whip to generate rotation.

    I'm taking the subway to Seoul Station so I need to give myself enough time to navigate the maze that connects the subway station to the main train station.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Stairway to luggage hell #1
    Stairway to luggage hell #2

    Train to Suwon

    October 4, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So I'm at Seoul Station. I need to find my train on the departure board, no problem. My destination, Suwon, is only 30 minutes by train and can be reached by subway. It's much easier to store my luggage on the train and I have a guaranteed seat.

    The departure information is shown and I head for the platform. I pass through no machines to check my ticket. On the train, nobody asks to look at my ticket. I exit at Suwon after 30 minutes, once again no ticket check. Bit of an "honour" system in play, it costs less to administer if everyone plays the same game.

    It is an absolute crush exiting at Suwon with a horde trying to board. As far as I know, my megaluggage didn't crush anyone, although it got a bit crazy there. Travelling during Chuseok is apparently like that.

    Suwon has a subway system that connects with the train network. This is where I make a big mistake, as will be apparent later. My Pop card (travelcard) can be used on the subway and buses here. I find the subway track and go 2 stops to get close to where I'm staying.

    Exiting the subway station, I unfortunately don't spy the lift that would take me to street level. So I take the stairs ... with over 20 kg of luggage (see photos, taken halfway). If it doesn't kill you it makes you stronger, right? Anyway I take the lift on subsequent days 😀    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    First park animal hedges
    First park animal hedgesFirst park, not sure what this symbolizes2Second park artworkSecond park artworkSecond park war memorial

    Suwon parks

    October 4, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I'm staying at the Hotel Bon, which is a curious combination of 1950s furniture and state of the art furniture. There is one (Korean language) remote control, to work the lights, A/C and TV. No light switches except for the bathroom. The key is also from the 1950s, being pretty chunky, but has a chip in it meaning it has to be inserted into a controller (like modern hotel cards).

    Anyway it all gets sorted out and I head out for an afternoon stroll. There are 2 parks close by that I pass through. The first (northern) park is a family park that is well patronized (being Chuseok) and has some outdoor gym equipment. Even chin up bars, one which I use. The first 3 photos come from this park, I found the animal hedges cute.

    The second park houses an Arts complex including an outdoor stage. It is a more "artsy" park, as shown by the last 3 photos.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Hwaseong Hanggung Palace complex
    Mirohanjeong (I have a reservation)Paldalmun (South Gate)Suwon view from walk up to the fortressThe bell of Hyowon1The long walk down ...

    Hwaseong in Suwon

    October 5, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Suwon is most famous for its World Heritage listed fortress wall. While it's no Dubrovnik, it is in good condition and its elevated position affords special views of Suwon on a fine day, as today is fortuitously.

    I took 30 photos (that's a lot for me), then whittled these down to 12 (sorry, selfie-lovers, my selfies didn't make the cut). So it was hard to choose just 6 to post.

    I started out catching a bus and alighted once I saw the Padalmun gate. It's in the middle of a large roundabout. I firstly went through the Hanggeung Palace complex, built for King Jeongjo in the late 18th century (thanks, Lonely Planet).

    After this I backtrack to the Padalmun gate and walk up many, many stairs to the top. It's worth it though, as the views of Suwon are magnificent. The fortress walls and watchtower are in excellent condition, I highly recommend this activity to all travellers.

    After all this, I trudge to the train station to buy a ticket to Jeonju. I want to take the 12:02 service there tomorrow, which gets in a bit before 3. I'm told that only standing tickets are available, the first service with seats is at 3:30 pm. This is the big mistake I alluded to previously. I should have bought the ticket on arrival at Suwon previously. Travelling during Chuseok 😓. So I buy a standing ticket for the 12:02 service.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    1My digs
    1Provided gratis by the hotelIn the general vicinityIn the general vicinity

    The Hotel Box, Jeonju

    October 6, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Leaving Suwon, it takes me an age to transfer between the subway and main train station. I sit on my luggage near the ticket office, watching the departures board. As it's not quite 11:30, my 12:02 service doesn't show up for some time. When it does, it shows Track 5, which is where I head.

    My ticket is for car #6 and, like Japan, there are indicators on the platform for each car. There's barely anyone around the area for car #6, so I'm able to sit. After a couple of trains pass by I realize that, not like Japan, car #6 of these trains is back towards the middle of the platform. With a couple of minutes to go I move back to the middle of the platform

    Sure enough, my train arrives and car #6 is not far from where I am now. On board, a man is standing in an area that would make perfect storage for my megaluggage. He magnanimously gives up the space to me. This allows to sit on my luggage for much of the time, so it works out OK.

    On arrival at Jeonju, I join the taxi line outside the station and catch one within 10 minutes. This is the beginning of a new recurring theme where taxi drivers have NO FRIGGING IDEA WHERE MY HOTEL IS. This guy doesn't have a GPS so we resort to Google Maps. It turns out OK, eventually 😡

    So it looks like my hotel is in the middle of what passes for Jeonju's red light district. I present photographic evidence. Panther condoms, "Love Gel" wtf. Anyway it's not exactly the Reeperbahn 😉

    Not a lot of English spoken at the hotel, but they do my laundry for free which is great. I have a black garbage bag for dirty clothes, so when my laundry was returned in a clear plastic bag I asked them (via Google Translate) to find my black bag. Some time later my room phone rings - "black bag, black bag" on the other end, so I head downstairs and trade bags 😄    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Jeondong Catholic Church
    Statue outside the churchOngoing service inside the church1What my dad never did for us when we were youngJeonju Hanok Mauel - yes, more hanbokMen in traditional clothes - it's a Chuseok thing

    Jeonju Day 2

    October 7, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It's Saturday, so you know what that means - yep, thousands of people out and about. Jeonju has a population of around 650,000 people. Its public transport consists of an aging bus fleet and taxis - no subway. Consequently the city's main roads are clogged on Saturdays, requiring the police to bring some order to what is chaotic.

    There's a traditional village (or mauel) in the middle of the city that I want to look at. So I take the bus and find what looks to be 90% of Jeonju's population had a similar idea.

    Next to the village is Jeondong Catholic Church. Catholicism has had a troubled past in Korea with martyrdoms during the Joseon dynasty. In tribute, French priests arranged for the construction of this church a little over 100 years ago. There's a service going on when I look inside, I took a photo (discreetly).

    In the village itself there are many street stalls selling food, beverages and ice cream. Lots of hanbok and men's traditional clothing in view, apparently the thing to do during Chuseok.

    I walk through the Wine Museum. Disappointingly it has no English descriptions of its displays (most museums here do) so I spend less time than I woud like. It's possible to buy product here as well, but what are you buying?    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    1Park entrance
    A shrine inside the park2 of 4 characters inside the shrine

    Gwangju Day 1

    October 9, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I had hoped to visit the Byeonsanbando National Park on the Sunday but I've come down with a head cold and the medication I bought makes me feel woozy. It would have meant spending 4 hours in buses there and back so I postpone it.

    So Sunday is a rest day. On Monday I take the bus to Gwangju, which is 90 minutes south of Jeonju. On arrival I notice that the Gwangju bus station is much more modern than Jeonju's. I also buy a ticket for my next destination (Wando) before exiting to the taxi rank.

    Once again the taxi driver can't make head nor tail of the address. He does have a GPS, so I dig up the phone number of my hotel and we're finally on our way. I'm staying at the ACC Design Hotel not far from the Asian Culture Complex (hence the ACC). Gwangju is making a real push to further the arts. I'm able to check in straight away, even though I'm early.

    After settling in and eating some lunch, I look at how I'll spend the afternoon. Gwangju is most famous for the Mudeungsan National Park, and bus #09 will take me there.

    It's a warm day in the city, 29 degrees or thereabouts. However the weather is more moderate in the national park. All photos were taken here. As it turns out, quite a few different bus lines terminate here so the park is easily accessible by public transport.

    There are plenty of people around, but it is the end of the holidays. There are streams that flow through the park, so the sound of running water is continual. I find it very soothing and a welcome distraction from my travels.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler

    Jaywalking in South Korea

    October 9, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Those of you that know me well know that I've practiced the art of jaywalking for over 35 years. It's a sign of impatience as there usually isn't a long delay between "walk" signals in Brisbane.

    In Japan and the ROK though ... generations of mayflies are born, breed and die between "walk" signals, I hum the complete "Atom Heart Mother" and feel my life ebbing away 🤔. Many motorists turn off their engines at red light in Japan. As Japan is a constrained society I feel the judgement of the complete population if I should jaywalk. The ROK is less constrained though ...

    I watched some young apprentices weaving their way through cars at a red light. Care needs to be taken though, as not only do they drive on the RHS of the road, but it is legal to turn right on a red light. I try to avoid jaywalking near corners so as to take turning cars out of play. So far, so good. One sprint for my life to avoid a taxi that pulled away from the kerb 😲 but that's it. Even jaywalked a 6 lane road the other night (it had a median strip though).

    So what other ambitions are left for this not-so-ancient art? Of course the Avenida 9 de Julio in Buenos Aires presents a big challenge. It has 3 separate pedestrian sections and is the widest avenue in the world. I have been to BA twice but never conquered this challenge.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    On the way up (long way to go)
    Seeking divine guidance1My lunch benchAt Jungmeorijae PassView of Gwangju from Jungmeorijae PassAt Jangbuljae Pass

    Mudeungsan National Park

    October 10, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Having enjoyed a taste of Mudeungsan National Park yesterday, I've come back today to do a full hike. As I walk into the park I pass Tourist Information, where a couple of gents who work there are sitting outside with clipboards. I am asked to fill in some profile information. No problem, don't even lie about my age group.

    It's much more humid in the park this morning than when I came yesterday. It seems like many people have already finished their hike at this time, early risers. There are quite a few shops and accommodation at the front of the park. I wandered around some of these before starting the hike.

    There are several trails that I'm interested in, but given my head cold I don't want to overdo it. I take the Jungmeorijae Pass trail, which will take me to Saeinbong peak (617 metres). I sweat profusely on the climb up, I much prefer hiking on cool or cold days.

    At the peak there is a rock showing the height. Great views of Gwangju to the east. It's another kilometre to Jungbong peak, and it is more difficult, so I abandon that trail after 15 minutes or so.

    Instead I take the trail for Jangbuljae Pass, which is at 919 metres. When I get there I find there are no views as what looks to be smog obscures most of Gwangju. What's worse is that there is no quick trail leading down so I have to backtrack the whole way back to the park entrance.

    By this time my cotton shorts are soaked in sweat. It's not a good look, considering every Korean hiker wears a "uniform" of dark nylon trekking trousers. I should have worn my board shorts! My hiking trousers would be too hot on a day like this.

    Usually there is a bit of a wait at the bus stop, in the sun, for the #09 bus to return to the city. I buy an iced coffee at the Angel-in-us cafe (who makes up these names?) which overlooks the bus stop, allowing me to wait in the cool. It does mean a mad scramble when the bus does arrive, but that's a price I'm willing to pay ...

    Finally back at the hotel, and a shower is the first order of business, followed by a long rest.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    View from my room in Wandonesia

    Wando

    October 11, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I'm due on Jeju Island tomorrow. The closest port to the island is Wando, which is my destination today.

    However I do have some time to kill before heading to the bus terminal, so I visit an art gallery and then the Asian Culture Complex. The medication has kicked in and I find it hard to concentrate on the task at hand. One of the lady reception staff at the hotel is kind enough to call a taxi for me when it's time to leave. She even starts to help me load my megaluggage into the boot - that's a WHS issue if I've ever seen one so I decline her help.

    I thought I'd given myself plenty of time to get to the bus terminal, but traffic congestion and red lights eat into the contingency. Every red light costs 3 minutes of time, they start to add up. Anyway I have around 6 minutes to spare when we reach the bus terminal.

    It's around a 2 hour trip to Wando. The bus driver does a quick head count and tells me to buckle up. Later on I understand why, as he takes cornering as a speed challenge. I can feel my ribs under pressure from the seat belt 😫

    Arriving at Wando, I eschew taking a taxi for a walk with my luggage. It's around a 10 minute trip to Wandonesia (I'm not making this up) where I'm staying. It's no problem checking in, the problem is that my room number is 403 and I'm Wandonesia is a hostel without lifts. So I have to haul my luggage up 3 flights of stairs (remembering that ground floor is 1F).

    The room is quite lovely though, particularly the bathroom. There is a lot of road noise but once I close the double-glazed windows I hear nothing.

    I want to buy a ticket for tomorrow's 9am ferry to Jeju. Unfortunately the ticket office is closed, even though it's not long after 4. Looks like I'll need to be there at 8am tomorrow when the ticket office reopens. I take the first 3 attached photos on the way back to Wandonesia, then the last photo from my room.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    View of Ichilbung from my lunch spot
    2Summit selfie1Panorama on the way down, Mt Hallasan in the backgroundThe trail down to the beach, which I takeView of Ichilbung from the beachPaddling at Gimnyeong Beach

    Seongsan Ichilbung

    October 13, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    So this is my second day on Jeju Island. The first day comprised the ferry trip (nothing special), the taxi ride from the ferry terminal to the hotel (usual cockup) and browsing around Jeju City. I went to a Mexican place for dinner and ordered a drink that included Somersby apple cider! So they CAN be found.

    Today I'll be taking 7 buses, giving my travelcard a thorough working over. The first bus takes me to the bus terminal. From outside the terminal I take a bus that takes me clockwise around the island about 90 degrees. After one of the stops (Gimnyeong) I notice a sandy beach so plan to stop off here on the way back.

    I disembark at Goseong-ri junction and walk to the bus stop across the road. This is where I take a local bus that goes to near Seongsan port. The weather is excellent today, the best that I'll experience on the island. I walk around some of the coastline as far as The Cloud Hotel (so THAT'S where it is, IT humour 😁). There's a good place nearby, overlooking the water, for a spot of lunch.

    After lunch I take a small trail to the base of Ichilbung, where I buy a ticket and join the masses for the walk up to the 180 metre summit. Simply spectacular views on a fine day, as my photos show. At the summit I drink in the view, it's Rio-esque on a smaller scale.

    On the way down there are some great views of the local area and Mt Hallasan, which is a volcanic peak and S Korea's highest mountain. Further on it's possible to detour down to the beach, which I do. Just rocks, no sand. There's a stall selling live seafood, octopus anyone? I wander around the rockpools for a while before heading back to the bus stop.

    Soon there's a local bus that takes me back to Goseong-ri junction. Surprisingly the intercity bus arrives within 5 minutes, I usually assume that I've just missed the bus. Lucky as there is a 50 minute interval between these buses. It drops me off at Gimnyeong and I walk to the beach.

    Weather's still decent, so I take off my hiking boots and paddle barefoot in the water for around 15 minutes. Noone else does this, ofc, but I find it very therapeutic. A photographer is nearby shooting either a fashion spread or a commercial. His model is wearing a robe and walks into the water (no disrobing) until her head is fully submerged. Then she walks out a minute later (freezing). The things we do for art (or money) 😦

    Back to the bus stop, I backtrack to Jeju Bus Terminal and then the hotel. It's been a LONG day.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    The way in
    Turtle Rock (a lava raft formation)The largest lava column in the world

    Manjang-gul Cave

    October 14, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    It's Saturday again and you all know what THAT means ... weekend warriors. Breakfast starts at 7am, I'm in the dining room at 7:20 and it is close to full. Looks like a few hiking groups are in, nobody under 40. I suspect they're hiking Mt Hallasan as most of them have departed by 7:40. It's back to normal then (quiet).

    As the weather is ordinary today, it seems like a good day to visit a cave. There are something like 160 lava tunnels on the island, a reflection of the extreme volcanic activity in the island's past. Manjang-gul cave is one such set of lava tunnels.

    I basically take the same buses to return to Gimnyeong. From there it's a bit tricky. Its just after 11 but the bus that will take me closer to the cave is almost 40 minutes away. And I would still have a 30 minute walk from there to the cave.

    So I look for a taxi, none to be found. I walk back to the beach and spy a taxi. He takes me to the cave for just over $5, which saves me an hour compared to the alternative. I buy a ticket to the cave and wander in.

    Fortunately the ceiling inside the cave is quite high so I don't need to duck or bend at any stage. It's a one km track through, which you then backtrack. There are good explanations (in English) of the various formations, including stalagmites, stalactites, toes and shelves.

    The cave is quite dimly lit so most of my photos are flash-enabled. The going is a little tricky at times with the lighting. Eventually I exit and head for a cafe. There's always time for a coffee.

    In the car park there are taxis waiting. They are the sharks of the road, slowly circling, looking for prey. I take one back to Gimnyeong bus stop. There is some time until the intercity bus arrives, giving me time to browse around a local temple. I have no information on this temple whatsoever.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Sculpture in the waterfall park
    Night time view

    Seogwipo (Mimong Guesthouse)

    October 15, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    It's a good travelling day as the weather is pretty ordinary. There's a bit of drizzle around, umbrellas everywhere.

    I bought replacement Asic Kayanas yesterday - same size and sole. The old Asics had well and truly done a full tour of duty and have been consigned to the care of Hotel Amber Central. To continue my retail therapy, I bought a beanie from the local K2 shop. It replaces the one that didn't make it back from Mt Fuji. With the weather cooling I will soon need it.

    I check out and roll my luggage up to the Halla Hospital stop and take the intercity 182 bus. This bus is reasonably express and has storage underneath for my luggage. It runs pretty much North-South and is therefore more direct than other buses.

    After an hour or so we pull into Jungman Rotary in Seogwipo. This is my stop, I'm caught a little unaware but fortunately other people disembark before me and buy me time to get my things together.

    I roll my luggage down one of the streets radiating from the rotary (or roundabout) and eventually find the Mimong guest house. It's run by a couple who look to be in their early 40s, the husband speaks some English, his wife not so much. My room isn't ready, no problem for me as I am early and am quite happy to leave my luggage there to check in later.

    No, they instead head upstairs to ready the room. This takes around 10 minutes. They then ask me about breakfast options and I am able to welcome them into the world of coeliacs. No bread nor cereal thanks. Fruit OK. Cheese OK. Yoghurt OK.

    Once that's all done I'm able to go to my room. Like most Korean accommodation, it has a landing just inside the door where I take off my shoes. The bathroom is next to the landing. Then there's an inner door into the main room. I find that closing this inner door at night blocks much of the sound from the hallway outside.

    For the remainder of the afternoon I walk around Cheonjiyeon waterfall. Note that I say "around" as I don't see the waterfall itself. The signs are confusing so I just take photos in the vicinity. The first photo is an interesting sculpture in the waterfall's park, the last photo is from near my dining destination that night (barbecued pork belly).    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler

    Jungman Rotary

    October 16, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Why a post about a rotary? What is a rotary anyway? And why aren't there any photos?

    To answer your questions, a rotary is a roundabout and this particular rotary comprises 4 lanes and 6 exits. So it's big, not quite L'Arc De Triomphe but big enough for your average Jeju driver. Students of Chaos Theory converge here from all parts of the world. So what are the roundabout rules here? It's not possible to work it out by observation, right of way seems extremely random. Some cars end up stationary in an inner lane, unable to navigate to the outer lane they need. But I didn't see any accidents ..

    I'm waiting for a bus on the rotary periphery so I have time to watch the action. I plan to shoot some video, but at that moment a car decides to park in front of the bus stop entrance and blocks my view. A beep from the next bus to come to the stop, ignored by the car driver who walks into a shop. Out 5 minutes later with a box.

    By this time my bus has arrived, so here endeth the discussion.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Forest map - I walk the green L-shaped route from the red mark on the top left
    Um ... toadstool sculptures?1Picturesque bridge over a streamView of the stream from the bridgeAutumn colours1Order a latte - looks like a flat white, tastes like a flat white, it's a FLAT WHITE!

    Saryeoni Forest

    October 16, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Soegwipo town is perched quite high from its port area. This makes it windier than any other place I've been to on the island. As it's also drizzling, its not a pleasant day in town. My head cold is still annoying me, so I decide to go for a stroll in a forest as therapy.

    Saryeoni Forest is to the east of Mt Hallasan. It is possible to catch a bus close(ish) to one entrance, walk through the forest to another entrance and catch another bus back to Seogwipo. So I'm back on the 182 bus which takes me to the Goryeo intersection. It's 1500 metres or so to the forest entrance, then I'm in.

    The lady at the information booth is very helpful about the route I should take (first photo). The red bits of the trails are off limits. There are a few other hikers (strollers) going the same way as me. It's not that I'm sprinting, but I overtake the people in front of me and then it's clean air (as they say in F1).

    Because it's quiet on the trail I catch a deer by surprise. I hear it crash through the undergrowth where it had been grazing, then I briefly glimpse it. It's off the trail by 30 metres or so. This slows me down subsequently as I'm on guard for other animal encounters, sadly it's the only one.

    As I progress along the trail, I meet more people coming the other way. It becomes clear why when I reach the other park entrance (my exit). There are many cars parked here, so their occupants don't walk through but only to a point where they then backtrack to the car.

    I have to catch 2 buses to return to Seogwipo. This makes it a longer day than I expected. Back at Seogwipo I stop in at Cafe Wookun for a hot beverage. I order a latte and the server brings it to my table. But it's not what I call a latte, it is a flat white (my coffee preference) and the best coffee I've had since leaving Brisbane.

    I take a 40 minute bus trip later that afternoon to Jungmun. I eat at Soul Kitchen which offers Western food. I have a salmon fillet which comes with potato wedges, probably the 2nd best meal I've had overseas (after the steak in Suwon). Definitely worth the 80 minute round trip.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    Near the start of the trail (forest walk)
    View of the sea in the distanceMt Hallasan from the trail going upLunchtime selfieRocky times aheadThe weather closes in on the way down

    Yeongsil Trail (Mt Hallasan)

    October 17, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    As much as I would like to hike to the summit of Mt Hallasan, it's not realistic due to my physical condition and my location on Jeju. Instead I will do a shorter hike called the Yeongsil Trail.

    I ask my erstwhile Mimong hostess for transport information. Not easy for her to explain, she calls her husband, speaks to him, hands me the phone and he promptly hangs up! Then he walks in a minute later so he can explain in person. I will need to catch a bus to Jungmun, no problem, exit the bus at the elementary school, walk back to the rotary and catch the 240 bus for the "1100 road".

    Somewhat unusually, it actually pans out. I catch the bus to the Jungmun elementary school, walk back to the rotary and look at the timetable. Buses are hourly and the next one is some time away. There is a cafe nearby, I order a latte, receive a flat white (YES!) and sit outside to observe while sipping the coffee.

    Shortly after finishing my coffee, the 240 bus arrives. I'm hoping it will go to the Yeongsil ticket office rather than just the Yeongsil entrance. Fortunately it does which saves a lot of time. From the ticket office there's still a 2.5 km walk to the trailhead, around 30 minutes walking.

    The weather's pretty good today so there are panoramic views as the trail ascends. Plenty of crows around also, they seem to dominate the higher terrain. Autumn colours are everywhere, Mt Hallasan is always present and the sea can be seen in the distance. There are quite a few hikers out today, but it's not too crowded.

    I want to catch the 14:22 or 15:22 bus back to Jungmun so I won't hike to the end of the trail. Instead I stop at Witseoreum Shelter, which is at 1700 metres. It's an ideal lunch stop as it has a restaurant, toilets and places to sit. The wind whistles through here though. What looks to be a school group packs up lunch and move out - the crows move in to pick through the scraps.

    I've eaten, rested and so it's time to head down. Still a lot of hikers coming through but the weather has taken a turn for the worse. Clouds move in and obscure the view, looks like a morning hike was the better option.

    At the trailhead I realize that I will probably miss the 14:22 bus by 10 minutes if I walk back to the bus stop. So I hand over 7000 won and take a taxi to the bus stop. Bus turns up a little late, I may have made it by walking but why risk it?

    All good coming back to Jungmun, then to Seogwipo. It's 16:45 by the time I return to Mimong. I'm looking forward to a long hot bath to rest my aching feet. My erstwhile hostess tells me she hasn't made up the room, I tell her not to bother. Second day in a row, hopefully tomorrow is different!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanSouth KoreaTraveler
    View of the falls catchment from the street
    The Fountain of Five Blessings1Selfie time!

    Cheonjeyeon Falls, Jungmun

    October 18, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    This should be a post about "Spirited Garden" but isn't owing to my abject failure in bus navigation. So I needed to take a bus from Seogwipo to Dongwang junction and then take an 820-2 bus from there. Dongwang junction is actually a rotary with 6 exits, and each exit has a bus stop. So I didn't realise this until too late ...

    After wasting the whole morning on this exercise, I take the 281 bus back and disembark at Jungmun's Cheonjeyeon falls. I find that I will have to PAY to see the falls. Having seen Iguazu, Victoria and Niagara falls for free I'm expecting big things from these falls! But first I duck across the road to "Soul Kitchen" and have a steak lunch (with potato wedges!).

    Fortified in body if not in mind I walk back to the falls and pay my entrance fee. Fortunately I can put my bag in a locker there as there are quite a few steps along the way.

    The falls comprise three different viewing points. I read later that Jungmun is the most touristy part of Jeju and you do get a sense of being milked as the falls are pretty but not overly spectacular.

    The most spectacular aspect is the selfie I took 😂. Anyway all posted photos are from the falls. I didn't have any coins to throw into the "Fountain of Five Blessings" so I threw my credit card in instead. Nothing's come up on my statement since then so I presume that I remain unblessed 😄    Read more

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