Southeast Africa

January - March 2023
A 65-day adventure by Philipp Read more
  • 72footprints
  • 7countries
  • 65days
  • 394photos
  • 17videos
  • 26.7kkilometers
  • 17.6kkilometers
  • Day 8

    Loadshedding and Getting Scammed

    February 2, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After I spent some time around noon at a local university and getting a personalized tour by two professors, one of whom I was sharing food with at my uncle's dinner table in Berlin just four weeks earlier, I headed off into the city to run some errands. The visit to the Uni got cut short because the power went out and everything went dark.

    I went to a local laboratory for some tests to monitor my health, where we struggled a lot with getting the payment through during a scheduled power outage called loadshedding.

    South Africa struggles a lot with energy security, so the national energy provider shuts off the power in each district in multiple two hour blocks per day. It's super annoying, negatively impacts everything, and loathed by South Africans because it is all happening because of governmental negligence, sabotage, and corruption. Experts don't expect the situation to improve anytime soon, so some tensions are brewing.

    Since we are heading to some wetter areas soon, with a risk of malaria infections from the dangerous Anopheles mosquitos, I decided to get some Malaria medicine in a pharmacy. Just outside it is where I met a guy - Leeroy Charles Benjamin he said. He was a man who told me he lived in a township - entire city districts constructed primarily of rudimentary materials such as sheet metal - oftentimes without even electricity.

    He was telling me his story which was truly tragic. However, there was something off about his story. Too many tragedies befell the poor man. His biggest desire was not for me to give him money or food, but diapers and formula for his one year old baby. I ended up purchasing baby supplies for around 35€ for him.

    I read up later that this baby supply scheme is a new type of scam. It can take two different forms. Either the store is in on it and buys it back from the guy immediately after the victim makes the purchase. Or the scammers take these goods they obtained "through donation" and sell them on the street for cheap.

    I willingly became a victim of this scam, because I figured that it is better to have baby supplies in circulation than on a store shelf. I figured the store wasn't in on it because it was a large retailer and we were assigned a till at random.

    To avoid the loadshedding at home I went to a local coffee shop that was equipped with a generator and spent the remainder of my workday there. Today's tasks were researching castles for rent for my own projects and how to charter private aircraft for one of my clients.
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  • Day 9

    My First Time Taking Flight

    February 3, 2023 in South Africa

    For my birthday, my travel buddies and some friends back home had made me an amazing gift - a paragliding jump! This was something I had never done before, but was always intrigued by it, so I was very excited about this present!

    The jump was amazing! It was super relaxed, very calm and quiet, no crazy adrenaline rush as I was sort of expecting. Just silent flight through the air - no sudden jerky movements, no jumping off a cliff (we just walked downhill a bit and were suddenly flying).

    It's an experience I can recommend to anyone, no matter the age.

    After the jump, we went shopping for some essentials we were missing, such as hats to protect our heads from the intense sun. Anne managed to buy some super cool stuff at a store with locally and sustainably produced fashion. Unfortunately, they had nothing in my size 😢

    But we also stumbled upon a platform near a mall that was completely taken over by seals! 😊
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  • Day 9

    Friday Burgers with Friends

    February 3, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    After the shopping we were invited to dinner at the house of a friend of Anne. We had great burgers there, enjoyed view of a spectacular sunset from the balcony, and had fun with friendly company.

  • Day 10

    Roadtrip around the Western Cape

    February 4, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today Anne and I had rented a car to go roadtripping. We started out with a visit to a penguin colony, where we opted to not pay the entrance fee to a viewing platform, but instead followed the advice of a local national park ranger to just follow the path and find some penguins there. We are very grateful for the great tip as we saw tons of penguins.

    Our intended itinerary was then to go and explore the Cape of Good Hope, but to our dismay we realized that they were now charging an entrance fee of 30€ per person for access to the cape. Since both of us had seen it ten years ago, we opted to skip that part of our itinerary, instead heading up to Kalk Bay, with a quick swimming stop in a tidal pool along the way.

    We then had some great food and good vibes in a local eatery called Cape to Cuba, where we encountered some angry seals on the mole. But they were only angry among themselves and didn't heed us any attention.

    We then continued further East, and after driving for maaaany kilometers along some of the big townships of Cape Town, we decided to head towards the water again. Some locals we had met told us that the bay we were in, called False Bay, is already getting fed by the Indian Ocean, and therefore the water there was significantly warmer than the icy waters on the Atlantic side. What can we say... We believe them! While I can't know for sure if the water was indeed from the Indian Ocean, I did think it was significantly warmer than the 13°C in the Atlantic.

    The beach where we went was quite special, as it seemed to be mostly frequented by township dwellers. We were definitely the whitest people around, but the locals were all friendly.

    After the sunset dip in our second ocean of the day we headed back home, opting not to join Arlett at a festival for the remainder of the night. Roadtrip can be quite tiring 😉
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  • Day 11

    A long Journey to Namibia

    February 5, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    When deciding how to move around while here in Sub-Saharan Africa, we decided to try to use as few flights as possible and stick to ground based transportation. Our preferred way to travel would usually be the train, but unfortunately a lot of the rail lines in Africa were built during colonial times with the sole intention to facilitate resource extraction. Therefore, the majority of tracks go from the mountains (where the mines are) to the coast (from where the ore was shipped onwards).

    In light of these reasons, there aren't really many railway tracks that connect countries with each other. That leaves us with buses. In Africa, distances are very vast. The trip from Cape Town to Windhoek comes in at around 1600km. That's really friggin far. But we found a reputable bus company that operates a sleeper service on the route, with departures twice a week and a scheduled duration of 23 hours.

    So, slightly nervous/excited we booked the trip, and today was the big travel day. The bus is a decently maintained Volvo base with a Marco Polo edition built on top of it. It is a large double decker with a total of 60 seats that can be folded open up to 150° for a comfortable position to get some rest.

    We left the slightly dodgy bus terminal of Cape Town around 45min late - of course no explanations were given for the delay. But the seats are comfortable and we settled in for a long journey. I had estimated that we should reach the Namibian border a bit before midnight, and figured I'd stay up until we finish the border crossing and get some sleep afterwards, to stay close to my regular sleep rhythm.
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  • Day 12

    A Most Tedious Border Crossing

    February 6, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Well, my initial estimates were off by around two hours. We ended up at the South African border post at around 01:30am. We were all made to stand in a long queue that was barely moving. Since we were a small group we diverted from the queue one by one and left to brush our teeth. Personal hygiene is especially important on trips such as this.

    I would have been very uneasy had I not read up on the trip beforehand, because they took away our passports at the immigration office. In total we had to wait around 60min until the paperwork for everyone was sorted out.

    Then we had to walk next to the bus to the luggage inspection area. We all had to collect our carry on items from the bus, and then put them in front of the customs agents who searched all of the bags. With differing levels of thoroughness. For example, I was only asked to demonstrate how to open my theft proof backpack. I showed the hidden zipper, the guy was happy, and moved on. Oh well...

    After the luggage inspection spiel, we were called one by one by name to come forward and collect our passports. With over 60 people on the bus, and many African names being very difficult to pronounce, this also took a long time.

    Once everyone had their passports back, we took a two kilometer long ride on the bus through no man's land, the zone between border posts. The immigration office on the Namibian side was staffed by a single officer... We were standing in the queue for over an hour, and there was a poor soul who got denied entry into Namibia because they couldn't give him a visa on arrival. He was deported back to South Africa, and the bus drivers were nice enough to "drop him off" on the South African side instead of letting him walk the 2km with luggage.

    Then the bus was directed to enter the large vehicle X-ray scanner, and I was confident we were only talking about mere minutes until we could continue our journey to Windhoek. We'll, they have the hyper modern scanner there, but didn't use it. Instead, customs officers boarded the bus, picked out about 20 pieces of luggage from bus and trailer for spot checks, and ordered people to find their luggage so they could open it for an inspection.

    Of course, this all took foreveeeer. They actually caught someone with something illegal in the luggage. He had to forfeit the goods and sign some documents, but we weren't told what the confiscated goods were. Fortunately, the customs officers were satisfied after that catch and let us go.

    All passengers were visibly and audibly frustrated at this incredibly annoying border crossing. We decided to make the most of it and played some party music on my Bluetooth speaker somewhere in a holding bay next to the scanner 🎉🔊

    The whole experience was only made worse because they refused to start the next process if there was even just a single person still stuck in the previous process. In a more efficient scenario the customs agents could've selected the spot check bags already while we are getting our stamps, then when the guy got deported the bus could've dropped him off while we do the luggage inspection, there could've been more immigration officers on duty (the bus only comes twice a week and they know exactly when), etc pp. It was very frustrating

    When the drama was over, we had spent (rather: wasted!) a total of 4h30 to cross the border. From 01:30 until 06:00. Our drivers kept telling me that this was a very unusual situation, and that they usually manage to cross in 1-2h. But with the crossing taking sooo long, we could've traveled to the airport, done the trip by air, and gone through immigration on the other side, all within those 4h30. I have no problems at all with the bus, but this border crossing was a complete cluster fuck of inefficiencies. I rate this experience 2/10, because not much more could possibly go wrong.
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  • Day 12

    First Impressions of Namibia

    February 6, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ 🌩️ 32 °C

    Once we had finally passed the border, we drove without interruption for three hours to a rest stop. It was the first time that I managed to get some sleep, and some three hours were very appreciated by my body.

    It was a very interesting experience walking into a little shop there, because the first thing that caught my eye was a German language newspaper. Now, I'm aware that Namibia has a German past, and that there is still a noteworthy population of native German speakers in the country. But I had not expected to be introduced to that through a German newspaper (that's 107 years old already!!) at a gas station in the middle of nowhere.
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  • Day 12

    Getting into Windhoek

    February 6, 2023 in Namibia

    After the morning's refreshment stop, which took around 45min, we continued the journey towards Windhoek. The scenery was quite interesting and changing rapidly as we were moving ever closer to the country's capital.

    Every now and then we drove through an unexpected thunderstorm, with flash rain and lightning bolts. They usually lasted less than five minutes, but appeared around every 30-60min. This was quite confusing as we were told, and could see, that Namibia was mostly desertic. So why the rain? And why did people warn us of incessant heat with 38-40 degrees at this time of year?

    Well, it was quite hot whenever we left the bus, and during the ride the AC was increasingly struggling to keep up the good work it had been doing so far. As a consequence, people in the front rows were shivering from the cold and us in the back of the bus were sweating from the heat. The system didn't fail, it simply didn't work well anymore. The air also got stuffer by the hour. However, I decided to sleep some more and managed to successfully ignore most of the inconveniences.

    Finally, with around three hours delay, we pulled into the bus terminal (it was more like a labeled shed where we arrived) of Windhoek. Thanks to my new friends, the bus drivers, our little group of three managed to snag a taxi earlier than the native Namibians, hehe. When we arrived at the address of our rented apartment we were initially a bit shocked, because it was located in a tower that's 13 stories high on the 8th floor.

    The apartment turned out to be nice, but unfortunately there were some things where the hosts didn't prepare well for our arrival. Among other things, the Wi-Fi didn't work because it wasn't paid for! This was a massive inconvenience since we had just been offline for 26h and really needed to get connected in order to catch up on several things. Anne had even missed multiple calls already that were scheduled in the early afternoon.

    The landlady couldn't do anything on short notice, so I went out to search for a prepaid SIM card. After an unbelievable hunt across three malls and fourteen individual stores, I finally found one that had a single SIM card in stock. All others were sold out. And the SIM I found only works in the cities...

    It turned out that a lot of local crime/scams were committed using unregistered prepaid phones. In order to curb this particular type of crime the government put a blanket block on all prepaid SIM cards in circulation, no matter of activated or not, due at the beginning of this year. Many stores were therefore unable to sell any SIM, and those that could had huge queues in order to be seen.

    I had finally found one and brought it home after two hours of searching. To our disappointment, we had essentially no signal in most of the apartment. After some trial and error I found out that the connection was most stable when I place the phone on a chair next to the kitchen cupboard for a little while. This trick allowed us to reach out to our respective families and check in with them to say that we made the trip safely.

    We decided to eat some of the leftover sandwiches from the bus trip for dinner, enjoyed a wonderful sunset from our window, and crashed into bed at some point around 9pm. The situation also really made us realize how dependent we are on the internet to keep up both our travel patterns and work flows. And I feel like it really spurred us on to reflect on the potential that we will be offline for much more time than that whole in Namibia.
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  • Day 12

    Seeking connection

    February 6, 2023 in Namibia

    Now that we were in Namibia, we had a harder time staying connected. This was especially apparent because when we arrived at our accommodation after being offline for 26 hours on the bus, it turned out that the Wi-Fi at our new home was not working at all, and we couldn't even let our landlady know about it.

    In South Africa, we were using both various traditional SIM cards, as well as new eSIMs. The latter didn't exist for Namibia after a solid amount of research, so I went to out to find some of the former.

    In my research, I discovered that there are only two major mobile operators in the country. One of them focused on cities, the other on the more rural areas. Both sounded sort of insufficient for our purposes.

    To make a very long story short, I ended up going to fourteen shops and had to enter three shopping malls until I finally managed to find ONE shop that had ONE SIM card in stock. Apparently there was a new regulatory law introduced because there was a lot of scamming that happened with burner phones.

    So, the (very obvious... not!) consequence was that all of the anonymous and unregistered SIM cards were blocked and rendered useless - including the ones still unsold at the stores! That's the reason why finding a SIM card was so difficult.

    I got the SIM, brought it home where I had two exited friends waiting to check in with their families, and discovered that in 80% of our apartment there was no signal 🤣 At least I managed to send a message out to our landlady saying that the Wi-Fi wasn't working.

    Frustrated, and offline, we decided to call it an early night, which was a good call because we fell asleep like rocks in no time.
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  • Day 13

    A day at the office

    February 7, 2023 in Namibia

    Today was rather unspectacular. Anne and I went to spend a day at the WWF office to get some work done. As much as we'd like to go exploring the whole time of our trip, we still have some responsibilities with our respective work, so these days at the office are an essential part of our journey.Read more