• Day 12 - Travel Day Home

    July 26 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Our flight took off sometime after 2a. It's all a blur at this point. But safe to say, Anchorage has got to have one of the busiest middle-of-the-night airports in the world. That place was hoppin' even if we weren't.

    Much like our flight to Alaska, the first one was delayed and we rushed to each subsequent gate. Thankfully no one left us. Both boys got motion sick/fatigue sick flying into DFW, but only Holden puked on the plane. So that was a fun treat for all our seat neighbors, but we powered through and made it home by 630p Eastern time. Now we just have to figure out how to go to sleep now that the sun sets for us again.

    Alaska, thank you for everything. This trip will always be in our hearts. It was such a gift to get to share this amazing land as a family.
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  • Day 11 - Anchorage

    July 25 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Our time in Anchorage was really just a day to kill time into our 2am flight. It rained all day, so the limited ideas I had for outdoor activities were scratched. Instead we found a science museum with a fun scavenger hunt for the boys, hit up the movie theater to watch the new Fantastic Four movie, found a brewery for climbers and played a bunch of cards, ate at the most incredible hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant, made the most of Anchorage's glow-in-the-dark mini golf spot and finished the day off with ice cream at 10p before heading to the airport because we were just too tired to think of anything else to do.Read more

  • Day 10 - Travel Day to Anchorage

    July 24 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    With the sun shining and very few clouds, our drive back to Anchorage was a whole new experience compared to our rainy drive into Seward. The mountain peaks were stunning the entire way. This place has an embarrassment of beautiful riches, with mountains, lakes, vistas. And in maybe our most Alaskan nature spotting, we drove by a moose swimming through a lily pad pond.

    We stopped for a while at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, an open-air animal rescue filled with native wolves, coyotes, bears, moose, caribou, porcupines and more. Then got back on the road and stopped at Beluga Point, where the Papa stood lookout with his binoculars while we scurried up a huge boulder outcropping. This place gave me big Northern California vibes.

    We made it to our Airbnb and the boys went crazy for their loft bedroom. Later we stumbled into the most fun dinner location -- watching sea planes take off and land at Anchorage's small plane airport. It was the perfect night to watch these seaplanes get airborne.

    Service was slow, but food was decent. It was a pretty perfect night until Holden decided to hide in a bush and wondered what would happen if he blew on a bee. That sucker stung him right on the kisser, ballooning his lip right on up. The rest of the evening was spent hunting down ice packs and Benadryl.

    We also bid an early farewell to Papa whose flight had to change to an early departure Friday morning due to weather. We are so lucky he was able to join us on this trip. It was the cherry on top of all our adventures.
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  • Day 9, Bear Lake, Mt. Marathon & Ray's

    July 23 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Wednesday was our last full day in Seward and I wanted to make sure the boys got a chance to get out and kayak while we were in the area. Papa agreed to join, so the four of us headed out for a paddling adventure while Nate decided to take a long run around Seward and up Mount Marathon.

    Our kayaking guides took us to Bear Lake where we got to see the salmon running and leaping for their reproductive lives. It was such a surprising experience to get to see this legendary practice in action.

    We paddled from one edge of the lake up to the salmon spawning site. Our guides pointed out newly laid salmon eggs and showed us salmon carcasses that bears had left. The salmon are so plentiful in this area that the bears only eat the salmon skin and leave the rest to rot or for other critters to nab. Our guide rescued one salmon who accidentally swam up the wrong way, which was funny to watch.

    We also spotted a pair of bald eagles perched near the salmon spawning area and walked through the temperate rain forest a bit, spotting bear tracks. It was really special to get to do this with Papa, who said he really enjoyed the morning on the lake, not something he gets to do much in Kansas and definitely much better scenery!

    While we paddled, Nate decided to try his luck at summiting Mount Marathon, right at the edge of Seward. It's a crazy-steep climb, and even though he took the more mild approach, his quads were still screaming as he neared the top. Between the incline and the gale force winds at the top, he was exhausted and happy by the time I picked him up.

    We were all pretty wiped out that afternoon and decided to take it easy, lounging, napping & playing games. We headed into town for our farewell dinner and finally snagged a table at Ray's where we got some of the best seating in the house. The food was as spectacular as the view. While we finished our drinks at the end of the meal, the boys ran out on the peer and saw a Stellar Sea Lion swimming in the harbor. Later we headed back to the cabin for one last fire and to finish off the last of our ice cream before we had to pack up and leave in the morning.

    It was the perfect ending to our stay in Seward.
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  • Day 8 pt. 2, Whale Watching

    July 22 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Whale watching was one of the things Nate was most interested in for our time in Seward. After hearing Papa recount his amazing experience on the water the day prior, we had high hopes for a good day of whale watching on our way to kayak, but also very much wanted to temper any expectations in case we came back empty handed.

    As it turns out, I've got a pretty good eye for whale spotting. Who knew? The first one I spotted was a Fin Whale, which evidently is a rare sighting. Our captain has been on the water for 10 years in Seward and this was his first time to see one. He left the wheel and came out to gawk like all the rest of us. The Fin Whale rolled along in front of us for only a few minutes, but she gave us a great view of her massive swimming fin. We now know that Fin Whales are the second largest whales.

    She passed by and we carried on, passing by Stellar Sea Lions lounging in the sun. Just as we passed them, I excitedly pointed out what I thought was a whale, but other folks said it was just a big log. My hopes were momentarily dashed until the log sprayed a big spout of water with its breath. Turns out the log was a napping humpback whale not far from our boat. He started slapping his arm for the next few minutes. It was a marvel to see that huge flipper up so close.

    We moved along and enjoyed the ride when I spotted what I first thought were weird waves or maybe logs near a rocky outcropping. We watched a few minutes more before the telltale water sprays started popping off. It was a pod of at least five or six humpbacks. The crew had seen this pod in the area for a few days, so we sat and watched them play for a while. They weren't feeding in the morning, but one was feeling frisky and leapt into a huge breech, causing a huge, breathtaking splash. We were gobsmacked at our absolute luck.

    After watching for a while, the captain reminded us that we needed to move on to make it to the kayaking destination. At that point I had almost forgotten there was more to the day than just whale watching. He noted that we may be able to catch more on the way back.

    And boy was he right. On the way back we arrived just in time for the frenzy that is bubble net feeding. This behavior has only been observed in whales around Seward in the last decade, and only lasts for a couple of weeks each year. The whales dive down together and blow bubbles, confusing the fish above, then the whales all surface at once, gorging themselves on the confused fish. Birds then dive-bomb, snatching up the whales' sloppy seconds. The whales repeated this several times, always whipping the birds and boats into a frenzy trying to guess where they'd breach next. My second favorite moment may have been when we heard spouting noises and looked over expecting to see a whale, only to find a sea lion who I firmly believe was solely out in the mix to make noises to confuse all of us on the boat. He was having the time of his life drawing attention away from the whales.

    The whole afternoon lived so far beyond our expectations. Everyone on our boat was slap-happy as we headed back to the bay.

    My only regret was that the boys didn't get to see the whales in action. While we were out, Papa took them on a 4 hour cruise of Resurrection Bay where they saw seals, otters and Stellar Sea Lions, but weren't likely to see any whales in the bay.

    We learned later, however, that their captain pulled an audible and sailed into the Gulf of Alaska after hearing about whales nearby. The boys were treated to a couple of very frisky whales who, as Papa said, were in the mood to show off. They jumped and breached at least 5 times. Everett ran from one side of the boat to the other with a hunch that one was going to breach on the opposite side and got a show nearly just for him.

    All three of them were jubilant recounting the scene to us. They may have also still been on a sugar high after slamming probably 100 oz of soda from the free refill cups Papa had bought them.

    The waters and whales treated us so incredibly well today. We all went to bed exhausted and feeling so lucky to get to experience this day.
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  • Day 8 pt. 1, Glacier Kayaking

    July 22 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    With Papa along on the trip, Nate and I had something we rarely get while traveling -- the opportunity to do something for just the two of us! When we started talking about things to do in Seward, we had different ideas. He was pretty keen on whale watching while I was more interested in seeing glaciers. As luck would have it, a friend recommended an excursion that gave us both. While it was one outing, I split it into two posts because they were both so extraordinary.

    We headed out with Liquid Adventures on a small boat with 7 other passengers & 3 crew/guides. They told us because of the winds, we would be heading to Northwestern Fjord, a little further out into the fjords than planned. The entire ride was incredible, but entering into the fjord was jaw dropping. I stayed outside in the front as long as I could, soaking it all in.

    Eventually they made us come in to gear up for getting on the water. Our day was unusually warm, so we were able to mostly wear just rain gear. The captain pulled up to a rocky beach and we all hopped off, getting our first glimpses of the glaciers and the ground they cut while the crew unloaded the boats. I picked up a few rocks that I thought the boys would like and we headed onto the water.

    It took us a few minutes to get used to tandem kayaking, but we eventually found our groove. Our guide took us along the edge of the fjord, pointing out waterfalls and rock formations. The scale of Northwestern Glacier is truly incredible. It took some squinting to realize one of the bigger tour boats was up next to the glacier, when I saw that my jaw nearly dropped as I began to understand the magnitude of it.

    As we paddled closer, chunks of ice started floating by. We paddle up to about half a mile from the glacier before we felt the glacial wind really rev up. At that point our guide redirected us back down the fjord and we bid farewell to Northwestern Glacier and assumed that we would be done. Wrong-o!

    We paddled a couple more miles and much to everyone's delight, a couple of harbor seals popped up, keeping tabs on us the second half of the trip. Eventually we rounded a corner to discover huge rock-like figures or what our guide called "zombie glaciers." These are glaciers that have broken off from the top half, but reconstituted to form something kind of new. Still ice and rock, just a little mixed.

    We finished this part of the morning with a picnic lunch of delicious burritos wraps while sitting on our kayaks in the middle of the fjord. Truly an amazing and unforgettable experience.
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  • Day 7, pt. 2 - Alaska Sea Life Center

    July 21 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    After a quick lunch at the cabin, we headed back into Seward to check out the Alaska Sea Life Center. Arriving in Seward, the boys couldn't believe all the mountains that surround the town -- everything had been covered up the night before, so seeing Resurrection Bay in all its glory really was something else.

    Eventually we made it to the Sea Life Center. As aquariums go, this place has the most perfect location, right on the edge of Resurrection Bay. Many of the mammals in the Sea Life Center were rescued in their younger life. It was really interesting to learn about so many animals that we were about to see out in the wild the next few days.

    While we were sightseeing at Exit Glacier and the Sea Life Center, Papa spent the day on his own on a 9-hour Captain's Cruise to do some whale watching and to get up close to the tidal glaciers in Kenai Fjords. Picking him up from the harbor, he was as happy as a clam... Or maybe one of those adorable harbor seals. He recounted getting up close to the Aialik Glacier, seeing hump backs bubble net feed, stellar sea lions lounging on rocks and more. The Kansas farm boy had the best time on the water and we loved hearing him tell us about what he saw.

    We grabbed dinner in town and headed back to the cabin where the boys made a fire and we all enjoyed the evening.
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  • Day 7, pt. 1: Kenai Fjords Nat'l Park

    July 21 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Our first stop of the day was to officially make our way to see Exit Glacier at Kenai Fjords National Park. It's sobering to see the massive way the glacier has shrunk, and while we had a great visit, it left me with a sad feeling of our climate's inevitable change.

    Holden was not keen on the hike up to see Exit Glacier and made sure to let us know how much he didn't want to walk the 1.25 miles. But boy did his tune change once we were up there!

    The biggest thing we learned about glaciers: THEY ARE WINDY. Holy smokes, we had no idea the way the wind would whip off that frigid hunk of ice. Everett wanted to get away from the cold as fast as he could, while Holden just kept venturing closer and closer. As E and I headed down I glanced back and saw how far up the side they made it and laughed to myself at Holden's earlier reluctance to even make the trek at all, much less scurry up well beyond the boundary line.

    Eventually we all made it back down to the visitor's center and headed into Seward for the afternoon.
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  • Day 6: Travel Day to Seward

    July 20 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Our travel day began early, unfortunately, not smoothly. Turns out I did not update our bus pickup location when I changed our lodging in February, so we were 20 minutes north of where the bus was waiting for us with no way to get there. This was not a good discovery. In my defence, both places were called Denali Park Lodge, or some mix of those names.

    Much to our relief, we booked with the nicest and most accommodating bus company. Instead of leaving us high and dry, they were so kind and sent a runner to pick us up. I have never been so happy that we are light packers as we crammed all 5 of us and our luggage into that rickety minivan.

    Once on the bus, we breathed a sigh of relief, I turned off my phone and we rolled on. At the halfway point pitstop, I turned my phone back on to discover a set of messages from our B&B host in Denali. Turns out there was another boy staying at the B&B and we had accidentally grabbed his boots, which were just like Holden's. After some scrambling from our host, we discovered that they were also heading to Anchorage that day. We had to do some running around in Anchorage before heading out, but eventually found the right person to leave the mystery boy's boots with. It wasn't the smoothest day, but it could have been much worse.

    With those hiccups behind us, we began the 2 hour drive from Anchorage to Seward. It was a gray, rainy day so while we couldn't see mountaintops, we could see the waters of Turnagain Bay and some ridgelines as we entered the Kenai Peninsula. It was so beautiful that I wouldn't let the boys use their screens and they didn't even complain (that much).

    We made it to our Airbnb in Seward and Papa decided to stay at the house and rest while we headed in to explore Seward. We quickly discovered the playground next to the bay and the boys were in their element. Later we grabbed some dinner & groceries then headed back to rest up from our long travel day.

    Tomorrow: Kenai Fjords National Park & the Alaska Sea Life Center
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  • Day 5 pt. 2 - Rafting the Nenana

    July 19 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Our last big adventure in Denali was definitely the wettest and coldest: rafting the Nenana River. Since Holden was quite old enough for the bigger water, we split up. He and Papa rode the first half of the river (the mild) while Nate, Everett and I tackled the second half (the wild).

    The river was great, but surviving getting our dry suits might have been the biggest challenge. They called getting into those latex necks "the rebirthing process" and it's apt.

    Papa and Holden had a great ride down the first half of the river. And, according to Papa, the entire boat learned ALL about the Denali Sled Dogs from Holden, who was still on his puppy love high.

    When the rafting guide asked if anyone wanted to take the front position, Everett immediately shot his hand up and climbed up front. He was in prime position as we barreled through some great rapids, never shying away from the big water. Our guide, who was also from Chatt, told Everett the tips for rivers to learn how to guide on, because he seems like a natural.

    We ended the long day with frozen dinners & some local brews back at the B&B. Just before we went to bed, a mama moose walked into the backyard with her baby. A great ending to our Denali stay.

    Tomorrow: travel day to Seward.
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  • Day 5 pt. 1 - Denali Sled Dogs!

    July 19 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    This is the day Holden had been waiting for. Early in planning this trip, we learned that the Denali NP has its own sled dog team and keeps a kennel in the park. Holden could not wait to meet them. Then in May we saw on Instagram that a new litter of puppies had been born in the kennel and that there was a Puppy Cam. Holden has been obsessed ever since.

    Walking up to the kennel we first saw all the grown dogs with their own log house kennels. Then, as we made our way to the puppy kennel, Holden's spirit left his body and entered Nirvana when he saw all the puppies curled up and sleeping one by one on the steps. The puppies were adorable and he was beaming just looking at them.

    We watched a short demo of the dogs running as a team and learned more about the program. After the demo, the big bus groups left and both boys had a chance to pretty much watch the puppies all on their own. They were both so happy and delighted.

    After we said goodbye to the sled dogs, we grabbed a few things at the gift shop, ate our picnic lunch then headed for one last hike at the park around Horseshoe Lake. The water was so clear and pristine. The trail led down along the Nenana River, where we got a good preview for our next activity later in the day: Whitewater Rafting!
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  • Day 4 - Denali National Park & Preserve

    July 18 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today was our big day to hike in Denali National Park. We packed sandwiches and headed out to the Savage Creek trailhead. The sky was clear as we headed out and much to our surprise we caught a very clear view of the base of Denali. Later in the day on our bus tour we also caught a glimpse of the southern slope up higher in the clouds, but never saw the peak. The size of Denali it is staggering and truly humbling. Feels like a gift to have seen it even in bits and pieces.

    Once we made it to the trailhead, two mile trail was pretty simple, followinf along the creek. It's a beautiful out & back hike. At the far point, we scrambled up some rocks and settled in for our picnic lunch. It's pretty remarkable to look at the rock spires and wonder how long they've been like that and how much longer before they come tumbling down.

    After we hiked back, we made our way to the bus stop for our trek out to Mile 42, the current far-point for bus tours. Our bus driver provided limited narration, but every time he spoke, he sounded like the most stoned boomer. At first I thought it was his schtick, but nope, that's just how he talks.

    We drove through various forests, canyons and ranges where we spotted caribou, moose, dall sheep, and much to our delight, two enormous brown bears lumbered onto the road right in front of the bus. Dad and Everett were able to see a mama bear and her cubs, as well.

    Tired and hungry from a long day, we headed back to Healy. On our way to the restaurant, a traffic jam alerted us to another sighting: an unbothered black bear at the side of the road looking for some berries. Alaska truly delivered on the wildlife today. Such a treat!
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  • Day 3 pt. 4 - Denali Dome Home

    July 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    It's not often that I would bother making a post about our accommodations, but the Denali Dome Home is one of the most unique places we've ever stayed.

    Originally when I was looking for lodging back in February, I struggled to find a place to fit the 5 of us and panic-booked a less-than-stellar cabin south of the park. Eventually I realized we would need a rental car but there are no chain rental agencies in Denali, so I followed a lead on a local family who rents cars.

    I called and asked her about renting a car and as we talked and I told her where we were staying she kindly asked with some skepticism why we were staying at the shady cabins. I told her that we were traveling with my dad and had trouble finding a place to fit all 5 of us. She took that as an opportunity to tell me about the bed & breakfast that they run north of Denali in Healy. She found that they had availability to give us two great rooms and gave us a discounted rate. The pictures online were okay and the reviews were stellar, so I said sign us up!

    This place exceeded all my expectations. The dome looks weathered from the driveway, but walking in is an experience. Light floods in from the windows and the wood planks are designed to mimic the pentagon shape of the window. There is a beautiful series of paintings that climb the stairway. The whole place is warm and inviting.

    Each morning we were served a great breakfast and had snacks available and our own mini fridge. The last night there boys decided to get fancy and check out the sauna, E was especially fond of the fluffy robe.

    The common areas were so comfortable. On our last night Dad, Nate & I stayed in the living room chatting with other travelers when a mama moose and her baby strolled into the backyard.

    We will always remember this stay fondly.
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  • Day 3 pt. 3 - Denali National Park

    July 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    After our horseback riding adventure, we decided to drive down and get a quick preview of Denali National Park & Preserve so we could get a game plan for the next day. But first, of course, we had to stop for ice cream at the little shops just north of the park.

    Filled up on sugar & cream, the boys dusted off their national park entrance sign posing skills and headed to the visitor's center. The center was full of info about the founding of the park; the native people who called the land home for centuries; the western explorers who set up their first camps in support of studying dall sheep; and the ecology of the species who inhabit what is now Denali National Park & Preserve.

    From there we drove out to Mountain Vista and walked the small trail. Not really sure where we might find Denali, we all took turns using Papa's binoculars to try and spy the elusive behemoth but didn't spot anything conclusive. Everett wanted to run, so he and Nate set out to jog the trail (they didn't jog long) and Holden, Papa and I straggled behind.

    Holden was not in the mood to hike, but didn't perk up a bit when he found a rock shaped like Tennessee. He really always does find the best things.

    After we finished in the park, we started the trek back to our lodging, but first stopped at 49th State Brewing for dinner. The big open area included frisbee golf, horse shoes and loads of other activities that kept the boys entertained while we sat and enjoyed our beers.

    Just as we were finishing up dinner, I spotted a man walking up and leaned over to Nate and commented how much he looked like Kellan's dad. Nate looked at him and said, "That IS Kellan's dad." About that time he saw us and we all laughed in astonishment that we ran into each other in Alaska. We also saw them 3 years ago in South Dakota on our big road trip. The boys reunited and ran around playing hard for the next hour. We all joked about wondering where we'll run into each other on vacation again in a few years.

    Before leaving, Nate checked out the little bus that decorated the yard which is the bus that was used the movie INTO THE WILD. Copies of the diary entries from the book decorated the inside of the bus.

    Tired and delighted by the day, we headed back to our B&B and settled in for the night.
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  • Day 3, pt. 2 - Horseback Riding

    July 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    When I was looking for things to do in Denali, one suggestion was horseback riding. We had never done it before as a family and I couldn't imagine a better backdrop than the Alaskan wilderness for our first ride, so we signed up.

    Our wranglers were so talented and made our outing a lot of fun. They clearly love and know the horses and it was a hoot hearing their stories of living in Alaska fulltime. Ivana, the owner, lives year round in a dry cabin, which we learned means there is no plumbing. She moved here from Slovakia and her family rarely visits because they think she's crazy to live in such a primitive home. Our other guide spends her summers with the horses and in winter works as a dog musher. These Alaskan women were so interesting and inspiring.

    Our ride took us through a small, brushy meadow filled with wildflowers. Ivana's dogs ran free alongside the horses as we clomped along the path, truly no animals have ever had a better life than those happy dogs.

    The guides told us about how the locals use the fireweed flowers as indicators for how much time is left before summer ends and winter sets in. Once through the brushy meadow, we ascended to an open plain and the most beautiful view of the mountains that border Denali NP.

    We only stayed there for a few minutes before heading back into the meadow where Sweetie Pie, Everett's horse, gave him a little taste of real horse riding by jumping over a downed tree, which E handled like a pro.

    Just as we were all getting the hang of the ride we arrived back at the stable. While our ride was only about an hour, it was such memorable way to start our stay in Denali.
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  • Day 3, pt. 1 - Train to Denali

    July 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    After an early night and much needed sleep, we were up early for our first venture of the day onto the Denali Star on the Alaskan Railroad. The train lived up to the hype and was a wonderful way to see how the land of central Alaska changes from plains to rolling hills and into the mountains that began as we entered into Denali.

    One of the unique things about the Alaska Railroad is the dome car, which was such a treat. We were able to go up and sit in the domed area and watch the scenery roll by. When we weren't into the dome car, we were probably in the dining car taking advantage of the huge windows and big table to play cards.

    It was great to have so many places to go because most of the first half of the trip I spent trying to avoid a VERY chatty and VERY enthusiastic 11 year old who did not stop LOUDLY TALKING everywhere she went. So shout-out to the Alaska Railroad for giving us so many spots to retreat to and enjoy our ride in peace.

    As we got closer to Denali, the train began following the path of the Nenana River. It was a gorgeous way to see the land change and a great way to preview our upcoming rafting trip in a few days.

    We rolled into the depot to discover it's actually located inside Denali National Park. Our host picked us up and we headed out.
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  • Day 2 - Fairbanks

    July 16 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    We didn't get to our Airbnb until after 2a, so Wednesday was a very slow day, which was good because Fairbanks is a pretty low-key town. We grabbed breakfast (great crepes!) and wandered around the small downtown area. Eventually we stumbled into the visitor's center and were pleasantly surprised by how much there was to see. Great art and lots of info and exhibits about life just south of the Arctic Circle.

    After our morning meandering, we headed back to rest again at the Airbnb. Later in the afternoon we popped down to the Fairbanks Ice Museum where our southern boys loved ice sledding. We also watched an ice sculptor create a winter scene with power tools. Keeping with the cold theme, we also found some ice cream.

    At this point our jet lag was setting in, so we headed back for some more rest and discovered the city had dug up the road in front of our apartment. Thankfully we still had water. Dad, of course, chatted up the workers then spent an hour sitting on the porch watching the spectacle.

    We ended the night with hand made Thai noodles at a great Thai place. Fairbanks is a sleepy town, but the food is fantastic. Finished with night with movie and early bedtime.

    Tomorrow: Denali!
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  • Day 1 - Travel Day

    July 16 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    We're Alaska-bound!

    We started planning this trip in earnest in early February and it's a little surreal for these plans to actually start coming to life. Alaska has been on my dad's Bucket List for a long time - and ours! - so we're excited to share this adventure with him.

    Today was our nearly 4,000 mile travel day, stretching long into the night. Chatt > Atlanta > Seattle > Fairbanks. 13'ish hours. When all is said and done, we should get into our Fairbanks Airbnb around 2a Alaska time, 6a Chattanooga time. It is wild that we are traversing an entire continent and we're still in the same country.

    As I type this, we're on our last flight from Seattle to Fairbanks. We left Chatt at 5p and have spent the rest of the day chasing the sun. Even as I type this at 12a Pacific time, I can see the sky begin to brighten as we head further north.

    There have been a few delays but thankfully no major hiccups, just a couple of VERY quick connections and speed walking/dragging tired children through airport terminals.

    Tomorrow will be a recovery and reunion day with Papa in Fairbanks. Then, fueled by coffee and adrenaline, Thursday we'll hop the train and head for 3 nights in Denali, then 4 nights on the coast in Seward and wrap up with a last stay in Anchorage.
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  • Day 6 - Travel Day Home

    January 2 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 34 °F

    With great relief, the drive home was much, MUCH smoother than the two day drive down earlier in the week. Based on how miserable the inbound traffic was, we were sure it was going to be a nightmare getting home and would be staying the night somewhere. Thankfully we were wrong. And while it was a VERY long drive home (943 miles and about 16 hours) we made it home for our first sleep of the new year in our own beds.

    This was a fast & furious trip and we packed so much in. Key West, you were a blast. Until next time!
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  • Day 5 PM - Snorkeling & Kayaking

    January 1 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Nate is notorious for disliking beach trips and only begrudgingly suggested Key West because the boys have been asking for a beach trip for a while, so one of my goals was to make this trip an enjoyable adventure for all of us. Queue this snorkeling and kayaking adventure!

    We set sail early afternoon and didn't return until after dark. The guides were great and filled us in on the history of Key West, talking about shipwrecks of the past and pointing out recent ones, too.

    We dropped anchor at a shallow spot for snorkeling a ways out from Key West. It was a little chilly in the water, but once we got moving, we warmed up. This spot didn't have quite the diversity as yesterday's, but we saw a lobster, huge ocean sponges, schools of white striped fish and Holden saw French Angelfish

    After snorkeling, we sailed over to a mangrove island where the crew unloaded kayaks. The mangrove coves were incredible and filled with bird life. We could hear all kinds of bird calls, it was really wild to hear so much in one spot.

    As we came around the curve of the island we were treated to an absolutely lovely sunset as we paddled back to the sailboat for the last ride home.

    Back on land we warmed back up and grabbed dinner at a place that claimed to be the "Southernmost Microbrewery in the US." It had good beer, filling pretzels and truly terrible Mac & Cheese. Holden and Nate went head to head for many rounds of tic-tac-toe then we headed back to pack and settle in for one last sleep before rolling out to start the long drive home in the morning.
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  • Day 5 AM - Ft. Zachary Taylor State Park

    January 1 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Continuing our quest to avoid crowds, Nate scored a big win with the suggestion to visit Zachary Taylor State Park on the westernmost part of Key West. On the way out to the reef yesterday, we noticed folks on a rocky outcropping, so Nate looked it up and read a bit about it and tossed it out as a morning outing spot. It was a good choice!

    It was gorgeous to walk through the natural habitat and see trees and plants that have thrived in this subtropical climate for centuries. The trail opened up to the most lovely ocean view.

    We spent a good while investigating tide pools and collecting coral piles and just admiring the sheer beauty of the place.

    About the time we realized the boys were getting hungry, we stumbled upon the most robust and alcohol-filled state park cantina of all time. We enjoyed a decent meal with white sand beach views. The smoothies, sandwiches, pizzas and iced coffee fueled us up for the main event of the day, Snorkeling & Mangrove Island Kayaking.
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  • Day 4 - Key West & SNUBA Diving

    December 31, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    After our eternal drive on Monday, it was a delight to be in the car as little as possible on Tuesday. Our big adventure for the day was SNUBA diving in the afternoon, so we spent the morning meandering around Key West. Unsurprisingly, lots of folks had the same idea but we did our best to avoid the crowds.

    We snagged coffee & smoothies at the Southernmost Point and met some local roosters. The boys declared they had no interest in standing in line for the iconic picture with the dinghy, so we meandered on. We walked by Hemingway's house and onto the calm part of Duvall Street then headed back to the hotel to get ready for our afternoon outing.

    When I was in Hawaii a billion years ago, we went SNUBA diving. It's basically shallow SCUBA diving, with the tanks on the surface and hoses connecting you. When I saw it was offered in Key West, I knew it was something we'd all want to do.

    We set out on a boat called GOOD TIMES with 4 other tourists and a crew of 4. As we sailed out, I smiled at the array of quirky houseboats in the marina, no doubt part of the original Key West charm.

    As we got closer to the dive site, the guides gave us basic instructions and tips. On the ride out I saw a sea turtle which was pretty wonderful and unexpected. The weather was absolutely perfect and the blue green of the ocean was unreal.

    Once at the reef, we geared up and jumped in. It was mildly chaotic getting into place and managing the tubes and humans. It was all a learning curve, for sure. But despite the chaos,we immediately saw sea life - a stingray and gorgeous fish I don't know the names for. As we got our bearings, we began to explore a bit at the surface. In between Holden chastising me for not holding the raft exactly as the guide had instructed, Holden said a few times that he was a little nervous. He took a few breaths and didn't let those nerves deter him as he got the hang of it.

    The excursion did not go without hiccups. Everett and his 0% body fat got super cold in the water and started coughing. Eventually the guide said it would be best for him to go back on the boat. The captain got him a warm towel and water while we continued on. Meanwhile Holden's weight belt wouldn't stay on, so he couldn't really descend too much, but he still saw a ton.

    It was pretty amazing exploring underwater and seeing the coral up close. Every so often I would have a mild moment of panic and not be able to see Holden until I would look up we he gave me the okay sign as he hovered above us, happy as a clam.

    As the dive went on, I began to feel a little nauseous. Being under the water that long was definitely a little disorienting, so I surfaced to catch my breath and feel the fresh air. I waved to E to make sure he was doing okay and he gave me a thumbs up. While I was above, Nate and Holden saw an eel swim below and Holden swears he saw a barracuda. The guides were great about pointing out wildlife and getting our attention with tapping sounds. Before getting out, I went down again and saw a puffer fish and more beautiful unnamed fish.

    By the time we were all back on the boat, Nate and I were both battling a little nausea, so the ride back was a little more quiet but just as beautiful. Once back in the harbor I began to feel more like myself.

    The biggest surprise as we got back to harbor was realizing that one of the houseboats I admired on the way out had suffered some kind of damage and was actively sinking as we passed by. The Coast Guard was on hand as everyone just stood by and watch the inevitable in progress.

    Back on shore we waved goodbye to our guides and headed back to the hotel to shower off the saltwater and rest a bit.

    Next we headed out to watch the last sunset of 2024. With so many folks on Key West, we decided to head up Highway 1 to catch the sunset in a place that wouldn't be crowded. We pulled into a boat ramp area and got out and talked about our favorite parts of 2024. Once the sun set, we headed to an Italian restaurant Nate found where I had the best lobster ravioli and the boys all enjoyed fantastic pizza.

    We headed back to the hotel and bid farewell to 2024 long before midnight, happy & tired and ready for what the New Year has to bring.

    Tomorrow, snorkeling and kayaking through a mangrove forest.
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  • Day 3 - Endless Travel Day

    December 30, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

    We got a late start on Monday. Everett had been up much of the night on Sunday with a cough. Who knew Florida had so many allergens? Not us! So we accidentally slept much later than we all expected.

    After a late breakfast and packing and many more college tales, we hugged Bree and Chad goodbye and headed south.

    Aside from big roads and fast cars, our main observation about driving through South Florida is that if you see a big hill, it's definitely a landfill!

    Before venturing beyond the mainland, the boys made one request to stop at the Inter-Miami Stadium. We didn't get a Messi sighting, but did get to see where he plays. Fun fact: a private airport is right next door. The boys also scored a couple of bottles of Mas+, which E said "might be the highlight of the trip!" (Mas+ is Messi's version of Gatorade)

    As it turns out, we were not the only folks who thought winter break in the Keys would be a good idea, because traffic was a MESS getting down Highway 1. The trip was supposed to take around 6 hours. I think we pulled in around some time after 8 hours in the car.

    The condo that we're staying at was hosting a New Year's Eve Eve party, so after we unpacked, the boys got on their swimsuits and we headed to the pool for glow sticks, burgers and a fun evening swim. Once they tired out, we headed back to our apartment to watch a fireworks show from the balcony, then we doped E up with all the allergy drugs we bought on the way down and we all collapsed for a good night's sleep.

    Tomorrow: explore Key West and Snuba Dive!
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  • Day 2 - Indian Harbor Beach & Area

    December 29, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Today, Chad and Bree took us to some of their favorite area spots. We started the day at the beach. Naively, Nate and I thought the boys would be content to just walk along the beach. WRONG. In no time they were jumping in the water, sprinting up the shore, tumbling in waves. At some point, I sent Nate and Chad back to the house to fetch towels and new clothes for our ocean-drenched duo.

    For lunch they took us to one of their favorite restaurants, Backwater. Chad built the building several years ago, so if was fun to see his handiwork. And the food was so good.

    Next we headed to a wetland refuge to walk off our enormous lunch and try to find some alligators. It was a really beautiful area with so many bird species. We only spied the back of one alligator, but that was enough for me! E and I nearly stepped on a Black Racer Snake which lives up to its name. It was so fast it was hard to keep track of!

    After that, they took us by Lake Washington where we saw a Cottonmouth Snake (from a safe distance) then back over to the river that separates their island from the shore. We were keeping an eye on some storms rolling in but they wanted to make one last stop to see if we could spot dolphins. This was what Holden wanted to do more than anything. Eventually we saw a dolphin fin in the distance, then another. But sweet Holden was always looking in the wrong direction.

    As the wind from the approaching storm was kicking up, Holden was getting upset that he wouldn't see a dolphin. We started to slowly head back to the car when he finally saw a dolphin fin in the distance. He was pretty pleased, at that sighting and was THRILLED a few minutes later when a pair of dolphins appeared really close to us and we got to watch them surface several times as they worked together. At this point the wind was really blowing and we made a beeline for the car.

    We made it back to Chad & Bree's before the storm let loose. For our last night there, Bree made us a fajita feast with her amazing homemade salsa and Everett got a lesson about trying to wrestle a jui jitsu guy like Chad -- you shouldn't even try.

    It was a really great day seeing so much wildlife and Chad & Bree's home turf.

    Tomorrow we head to the Keys.
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  • Day 1: Travel Day

    December 28, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Headed out today to start making our way to Key West. The weather was gray, chilly and foggy until we were almost to Florida. We had hoped to make it to Chad & Bree's in Indian Harbor before sunset, but alas, Florida traffic had other plans. The perk of arriving after dark was seeing the palm trees wrapped in lights, which Holden kept calling Florida Christmas Trees.

    Chad and Bree welcomed us with big hugs and the kids quickly gelled over video games. They treated us to a feast of freshly harvested stone crab that they caught that morning from their own traps. They were INCREDIBLE and the boys got to try cracking the shells on their own. It really doesn't get much more Florida than that.

    We stayed up late talking in their backyard while the boys swam in their street clothes in the pool. It was a pretty lovely first night in Florida.

    We settled in for the night in their lovely newly built MIL suite. Just as we were about to fall asleep and alarm started chirping somewhere. We finally found it in the boys' room and Nate climbed up to take the fire alarm down. It kept chirping. We took the battery out. It kept chirping. Finally I took it to the garage where it chirped again and in my late night fog, I shoved it into the deep freezer by the door. We slept peacefully thereafter.
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  • Day 8 - Heading Home!

    July 20, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    The boys lived it up on the last night of the trip with a sleepover with Griffin & Barrett. Saturday morning we grabbed donuts on the way to pick them up in the morning, said our goodbyes for now then started the drive home.

    We got to see so many legendary sights on this trip, but we all agreed that getting to see some of our favorite people and the places they call home was the highlight for us all.
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