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Alaska!
  • Amy Packer

Alaska!

Heading North to explore Alaska for the first time. Fairbanks > Denali > Seward > Anchorage 🛬🚂🚌🚘🛥️🛫 Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 15, 2025
    Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Adios, Chatt. See you soon, Alaska.
    Quick stop to check out my painting at CHA ART SPACES Exhibit at the airport.Losing steam on the last leg, both boys asleep on Nate's lap while he watches Deadpool.

    Day 1 - Travel Day

    July 16 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    We're Alaska-bound!

    We started planning this trip in earnest in early February and it's a little surreal for these plans to actually start coming to life. Alaska has been on my dad's Bucket List for a long time - and ours! - so we're excited to share this adventure with him.

    Today was our nearly 4,000 mile travel day, stretching long into the night. Chatt > Atlanta > Seattle > Fairbanks. 13'ish hours. When all is said and done, we should get into our Fairbanks Airbnb around 2a Alaska time, 6a Chattanooga time. It is wild that we are traversing an entire continent and we're still in the same country.

    As I type this, we're on our last flight from Seattle to Fairbanks. We left Chatt at 5p and have spent the rest of the day chasing the sun. Even as I type this at 12a Pacific time, I can see the sky begin to brighten as we head further north.

    There have been a few delays but thankfully no major hiccups, just a couple of VERY quick connections and speed walking/dragging tired children through airport terminals.

    Tomorrow will be a recovery and reunion day with Papa in Fairbanks. Then, fueled by coffee and adrenaline, Thursday we'll hop the train and head for 3 nights in Denali, then 4 nights on the coast in Seward and wrap up with a last stay in Anchorage.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Living their snowmobile life fantasy.
    1Glad we can all be on our screens together.Monument to the native people and spirit.Antler Archway near the visitor's center.This quilt at the visitor's center was incredible.Ice Museum was a hit!And very cold.Our very own giant hole.

    Day 2 - Fairbanks

    July 16 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    We didn't get to our Airbnb until after 2a, so Wednesday was a very slow day, which was good because Fairbanks is a pretty low-key town. We grabbed breakfast (great crepes!) and wandered around the small downtown area. Eventually we stumbled into the visitor's center and were pleasantly surprised by how much there was to see. Great art and lots of info and exhibits about life just south of the Arctic Circle.

    After our morning meandering, we headed back to rest again at the Airbnb. Later in the afternoon we popped down to the Fairbanks Ice Museum where our southern boys loved ice sledding. We also watched an ice sculptor create a winter scene with power tools. Keeping with the cold theme, we also found some ice cream.

    At this point our jet lag was setting in, so we headed back for some more rest and discovered the city had dug up the road in front of our apartment. Thankfully we still had water. Dad, of course, chatted up the workers then spent an hour sitting on the porch watching the spectacle.

    We ended the night with hand made Thai noodles at a great Thai place. Fairbanks is a sleepy town, but the food is fantastic. Finished with night with movie and early bedtime.

    Tomorrow: Denali!    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Enormous toy train replica of the journey from Fairbanks to Denali.
    Shiny train cars ready for us to board.Nate was a happy to be reading instead of driving.Chatting with the conductor up in the dome car.Holden was serious about his solitaire game in the dining car.1Papa was happy to be on his first big train ride in 50+ years.Lunch in the dining car was very scenic.Scenery beginning to change as we get closer to Denali.Holden, the Go Fish card shark.Nenana RiverNate checking out the rapids on the Nenana from the dining car.

    Day 3, pt. 1 - Train to Denali

    July 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    After an early night and much needed sleep, we were up early for our first venture of the day onto the Denali Star on the Alaskan Railroad. The train lived up to the hype and was a wonderful way to see how the land of central Alaska changes from plains to rolling hills and into the mountains that began as we entered into Denali.

    One of the unique things about the Alaska Railroad is the dome car, which was such a treat. We were able to go up and sit in the domed area and watch the scenery roll by. When we weren't into the dome car, we were probably in the dining car taking advantage of the huge windows and big table to play cards.

    It was great to have so many places to go because most of the first half of the trip I spent trying to avoid a VERY chatty and VERY enthusiastic 11 year old who did not stop LOUDLY TALKING everywhere she went. So shout-out to the Alaska Railroad for giving us so many spots to retreat to and enjoy our ride in peace.

    As we got closer to Denali, the train began following the path of the Nenana River. It was a gorgeous way to see the land change and a great way to preview our upcoming rafting trip in a few days.

    We rolled into the depot to discover it's actually located inside Denali National Park. Our host picked us up and we headed out.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Say neigh 🐎
    Always helpful with changing the rules.Nate and his new girl, Dolly.Holden's horse, Tough, with the bluest eyes and biggest side-eye inspecting his new rider.Trying to figure out how we back these guys out and get going.Nate & Dolly, Amy & SmokeHolden & Tough, Everett & Sweetie Pie, Papa & SkulkaHappy riders.The horse trail meandered through the prettiest meadow with so many wildflowers.Two sweetie pies.One last snuggle with his blue-eyed Tough.

    Day 3, pt. 2 - Horseback Riding

    July 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    When I was looking for things to do in Denali, one suggestion was horseback riding. We had never done it before as a family and I couldn't imagine a better backdrop than the Alaskan wilderness for our first ride, so we signed up.

    Our wranglers were so talented and made our outing a lot of fun. They clearly love and know the horses and it was a hoot hearing their stories of living in Alaska fulltime. Ivana, the owner, lives year round in a dry cabin, which we learned means there is no plumbing. She moved here from Slovakia and her family rarely visits because they think she's crazy to live in such a primitive home. Our other guide spends her summers with the horses and in winter works as a dog musher. These Alaskan women were so interesting and inspiring.

    Our ride took us through a small, brushy meadow filled with wildflowers. Ivana's dogs ran free alongside the horses as we clomped along the path, truly no animals have ever had a better life than those happy dogs.

    The guides told us about how the locals use the fireweed flowers as indicators for how much time is left before summer ends and winter sets in. Once through the brushy meadow, we ascended to an open plain and the most beautiful view of the mountains that border Denali NP.

    We only stayed there for a few minutes before heading back into the meadow where Sweetie Pie, Everett's horse, gave him a little taste of real horse riding by jumping over a downed tree, which E handled like a pro.

    Just as we were all getting the hang of the ride we arrived back at the stable. While our ride was only about an hour, it was such memorable way to start our stay in Denali.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Hello, Denali National Park & Preserve!
    1

    Day 3 pt. 3 - Denali National Park

    July 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    After our horseback riding adventure, we decided to drive down and get a quick preview of Denali National Park & Preserve so we could get a game plan for the next day. But first, of course, we had to stop for ice cream at the little shops just north of the park.

    Filled up on sugar & cream, the boys dusted off their national park entrance sign posing skills and headed to the visitor's center. The center was full of info about the founding of the park; the native people who called the land home for centuries; the western explorers who set up their first camps in support of studying dall sheep; and the ecology of the species who inhabit what is now Denali National Park & Preserve.

    From there we drove out to Mountain Vista and walked the small trail. Not really sure where we might find Denali, we all took turns using Papa's binoculars to try and spy the elusive behemoth but didn't spot anything conclusive. Everett wanted to run, so he and Nate set out to jog the trail (they didn't jog long) and Holden, Papa and I straggled behind.

    Holden was not in the mood to hike, but didn't perk up a bit when he found a rock shaped like Tennessee. He really always does find the best things.

    After we finished in the park, we started the trek back to our lodging, but first stopped at 49th State Brewing for dinner. The big open area included frisbee golf, horse shoes and loads of other activities that kept the boys entertained while we sat and enjoyed our beers.

    Just as we were finishing up dinner, I spotted a man walking up and leaned over to Nate and commented how much he looked like Kellan's dad. Nate looked at him and said, "That IS Kellan's dad." About that time he saw us and we all laughed in astonishment that we ran into each other in Alaska. We also saw them 3 years ago in South Dakota on our big road trip. The boys reunited and ran around playing hard for the next hour. We all joked about wondering where we'll run into each other on vacation again in a few years.

    Before leaving, Nate checked out the little bus that decorated the yard which is the bus that was used the movie INTO THE WILD. Copies of the diary entries from the book decorated the inside of the bus.

    Tired and delighted by the day, we headed back to our B&B and settled in for the night.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler

    Day 3 pt. 4 - Denali Dome Home

    July 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    It's not often that I would bother making a post about our accommodations, but the Denali Dome Home is one of the most unique places we've ever stayed.

    Originally when I was looking for lodging back in February, I struggled to find a place to fit the 5 of us and panic-booked a less-than-stellar cabin south of the park. Eventually I realized we would need a rental car but there are no chain rental agencies in Denali, so I followed a lead on a local family who rents cars.

    I called and asked her about renting a car and as we talked and I told her where we were staying she kindly asked with some skepticism why we were staying at the shady cabins. I told her that we were traveling with my dad and had trouble finding a place to fit all 5 of us. She took that as an opportunity to tell me about the bed & breakfast that they run north of Denali in Healy. She found that they had availability to give us two great rooms and gave us a discounted rate. The pictures online were okay and the reviews were stellar, so I said sign us up!

    This place exceeded all my expectations. The dome looks weathered from the driveway, but walking in is an experience. Light floods in from the windows and the wood planks are designed to mimic the pentagon shape of the window. There is a beautiful series of paintings that climb the stairway. The whole place is warm and inviting.

    Each morning we were served a great breakfast and had snacks available and our own mini fridge. The last night there boys decided to get fancy and check out the sauna, E was especially fond of the fluffy robe.

    The common areas were so comfortable. On our last night Dad, Nate & I stayed in the living room chatting with other travelers when a mama moose and her baby strolled into the backyard.

    We will always remember this stay fondly.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Papa making his way along the trail.
    Amy & Papa making their way up the trail.Papa & Everett lunching above the creek.Still love hiking together.Holden decided to lunch on his own.Can resist a chance to climb, if even just a little bit.Passing over Savage River.E's energy level waiting for the bus versus...1Papa's energy level. Bus stop zzzs for Papa.Beautiful fireweed everywhere. Named fireweed because it's the first thing to bloom after wildfire.Trying to spot some dahl sheep.Caribou!Stunning mountain vistas everywhere.Happy to hop out at the far point of the bus tour.The most unbothered ground squirrel.Happy with the wildlife sightings so far.BEARS!Sled dog Jolie on her walk with a volunteer. Holden was so happy to see his first sled dog.Bonus black bear on the way to dinner.

    Day 4 - Denali National Park & Preserve

    July 18 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today was our big day to hike in Denali National Park. We packed sandwiches and headed out to the Savage Creek trailhead. The sky was clear as we headed out and much to our surprise we caught a very clear view of the base of Denali. Later in the day on our bus tour we also caught a glimpse of the southern slope up higher in the clouds, but never saw the peak. The size of Denali it is staggering and truly humbling. Feels like a gift to have seen it even in bits and pieces.

    Once we made it to the trailhead, two mile trail was pretty simple, followinf along the creek. It's a beautiful out & back hike. At the far point, we scrambled up some rocks and settled in for our picnic lunch. It's pretty remarkable to look at the rock spires and wonder how long they've been like that and how much longer before they come tumbling down.

    After we hiked back, we made our way to the bus stop for our trek out to Mile 42, the current far-point for bus tours. Our bus driver provided limited narration, but every time he spoke, he sounded like the most stoned boomer. At first I thought it was his schtick, but nope, that's just how he talks.

    We drove through various forests, canyons and ranges where we spotted caribou, moose, dall sheep, and much to our delight, two enormous brown bears lumbered onto the road right in front of the bus. Dad and Everett were able to see a mama bear and her cubs, as well.

    Tired and hungry from a long day, we headed back to Healy. On our way to the restaurant, a traffic jam alerted us to another sighting: an unbothered black bear at the side of the road looking for some berries. Alaska truly delivered on the wildlife today. Such a treat!    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    This view nearly made Holden's heart explode.
    Beaming and never happier.Checking out the adult sled dogs and their little log cabins.One of the sweet adult dogs who participated in the demo we watched later.Not sure who love the attention more, this doggo or the boys.They spent at least 30 minutes watching the puppies.Holden tries out mushing with a wooden team.E gives it a go, too.NP infographic about composting dog poop next to the bathroom.More beautiful fireweed.New bear on a bronze bear.Climbing wherever he can.Hike down to Horseshoe Lake.Papa was impressed with how blue the water was, doesn't ever see that in Kansas.1Great day to be out hiking.Our speed-hiker stopped long enough for a pic.1Sweaty pitstop on the way back to the trailhead.

    Day 5 pt. 1 - Denali Sled Dogs!

    July 19 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    This is the day Holden had been waiting for. Early in planning this trip, we learned that the Denali NP has its own sled dog team and keeps a kennel in the park. Holden could not wait to meet them. Then in May we saw on Instagram that a new litter of puppies had been born in the kennel and that there was a Puppy Cam. Holden has been obsessed ever since.

    Walking up to the kennel we first saw all the grown dogs with their own log house kennels. Then, as we made our way to the puppy kennel, Holden's spirit left his body and entered Nirvana when he saw all the puppies curled up and sleeping one by one on the steps. The puppies were adorable and he was beaming just looking at them.

    We watched a short demo of the dogs running as a team and learned more about the program. After the demo, the big bus groups left and both boys had a chance to pretty much watch the puppies all on their own. They were both so happy and delighted.

    After we said goodbye to the sled dogs, we grabbed a few things at the gift shop, ate our picnic lunch then headed for one last hike at the park around Horseshoe Lake. The water was so clear and pristine. The trail led down along the Nenana River, where we got a good preview for our next activity later in the day: Whitewater Rafting!    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    He's been excited about this for the last month!
    1Papa's ready to go.Gearing up was not easy!Dry suits/suffocation suits, but eventually got used to it.Never looked better.Whole crew ready for the ride.1Holden and Papa on the NenanaGreat time on the Nenana!Everett was pumped after taking on Mike Tyson!Wrinkled and cold.So much fun to do this together.Freezing cold but incredibly happy.Watching the baby moose in the fancy bathrobe.Surprise visit from mama moose & her baby!It does not get any cuter than this.

    Day 5 pt. 2 - Rafting the Nenana

    July 19 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Our last big adventure in Denali was definitely the wettest and coldest: rafting the Nenana River. Since Holden was quite old enough for the bigger water, we split up. He and Papa rode the first half of the river (the mild) while Nate, Everett and I tackled the second half (the wild).

    The river was great, but surviving getting our dry suits might have been the biggest challenge. They called getting into those latex necks "the rebirthing process" and it's apt.

    Papa and Holden had a great ride down the first half of the river. And, according to Papa, the entire boat learned ALL about the Denali Sled Dogs from Holden, who was still on his puppy love high.

    When the rafting guide asked if anyone wanted to take the front position, Everett immediately shot his hand up and climbed up front. He was in prime position as we barreled through some great rapids, never shying away from the big water. Our guide, who was also from Chatt, told Everett the tips for rivers to learn how to guide on, because he seems like a natural.

    We ended the long day with frozen dinners & some local brews back at the B&B. Just before we went to bed, a mama moose walked into the backyard with her baby. A great ending to our Denali stay.

    Tomorrow: travel day to Seward.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Gray, cloudy day for our travels.
    Always love traveling with this kid.Cloudy Alaska still has great views.1Papa trying to adjust to riding the bus and not driving it.New friends in Seward.Quick walk to a man-made waterfall.Nate finally got fish & chips and it didn't take 2 hours!1The boys quickly found the games at our cabin.

    Day 6: Travel Day to Seward

    July 20 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Our travel day began early, unfortunately, not smoothly. Turns out I did not update our bus pickup location when I changed our lodging in February, so we were 20 minutes north of where the bus was waiting for us with no way to get there. This was not a good discovery. In my defence, both places were called Denali Park Lodge, or some mix of those names.

    Much to our relief, we booked with the nicest and most accommodating bus company. Instead of leaving us high and dry, they were so kind and sent a runner to pick us up. I have never been so happy that we are light packers as we crammed all 5 of us and our luggage into that rickety minivan.

    Once on the bus, we breathed a sigh of relief, I turned off my phone and we rolled on. At the halfway point pitstop, I turned my phone back on to discover a set of messages from our B&B host in Denali. Turns out there was another boy staying at the B&B and we had accidentally grabbed his boots, which were just like Holden's. After some scrambling from our host, we discovered that they were also heading to Anchorage that day. We had to do some running around in Anchorage before heading out, but eventually found the right person to leave the mystery boy's boots with. It wasn't the smoothest day, but it could have been much worse.

    With those hiccups behind us, we began the 2 hour drive from Anchorage to Seward. It was a gray, rainy day so while we couldn't see mountaintops, we could see the waters of Turnagain Bay and some ridgelines as we entered the Kenai Peninsula. It was so beautiful that I wouldn't let the boys use their screens and they didn't even complain (that much).

    We made it to our Airbnb in Seward and Papa decided to stay at the house and rest while we headed in to explore Seward. We quickly discovered the playground next to the bay and the boys were in their element. Later we grabbed some dinner & groceries then headed back to rest up from our long travel day.

    Tomorrow: Kenai Fjords National Park & the Alaska Sea Life Center    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Hello, Kenai Fjords!
    Funny walking to a glacier through a temperate rainforest.First touch of glacier waters, very cold.Markers like this are throughout the park, noting the glacier's location & year.Note the sky-high hair, that's from the glacial wind blasting us.The glacier up just above Nate's head.The blue dot is Holden, undeterred by the wind for a closer view.Striking a pose with Exit Glacier while it's still around.E wanted away from the cold wind, so we headed down to the glacial plains view.Holy glacial wind, Batman!

    Day 7, pt. 1: Kenai Fjords Nat'l Park

    July 21 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Our first stop of the day was to officially make our way to see Exit Glacier at Kenai Fjords National Park. It's sobering to see the massive way the glacier has shrunk, and while we had a great visit, it left me with a sad feeling of our climate's inevitable change.

    Holden was not keen on the hike up to see Exit Glacier and made sure to let us know how much he didn't want to walk the 1.25 miles. But boy did his tune change once we were up there!

    The biggest thing we learned about glaciers: THEY ARE WINDY. Holy smokes, we had no idea the way the wind would whip off that frigid hunk of ice. Everett wanted to get away from the cold as fast as he could, while Holden just kept venturing closer and closer. As E and I headed down I glanced back and saw how far up the side they made it and laughed to myself at Holden's earlier reluctance to even make the trek at all, much less scurry up well beyond the boundary line.

    Eventually we all made it back down to the visitor's center and headed into Seward for the afternoon.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Prettiest view I've ever had at a laundromat.
    Clouds covered the mountains yesterday, so today we soaked in the clear skies and amazing view.The aquarium looks out onto Resurrection Bay.Scoping out the view.Watched Mara work for her supper and learned lots of info about her and the program.Made sure to snuggle all the statues before leaving.And checked out the gift shop.The boys spent HOURS running around with other kids here throughout our stay.Papa's boat coming in from his day exploring glaciers.Our home for this part of the trip.If you squint, you can see one of our mountain views from the kitchen.Made good use of the fire pit!

    Day 7, pt. 2 - Alaska Sea Life Center

    July 21 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    After a quick lunch at the cabin, we headed back into Seward to check out the Alaska Sea Life Center. Arriving in Seward, the boys couldn't believe all the mountains that surround the town -- everything had been covered up the night before, so seeing Resurrection Bay in all its glory really was something else.

    Eventually we made it to the Sea Life Center. As aquariums go, this place has the most perfect location, right on the edge of Resurrection Bay. Many of the mammals in the Sea Life Center were rescued in their younger life. It was really interesting to learn about so many animals that we were about to see out in the wild the next few days.

    While we were sightseeing at Exit Glacier and the Sea Life Center, Papa spent the day on his own on a 9-hour Captain's Cruise to do some whale watching and to get up close to the tidal glaciers in Kenai Fjords. Picking him up from the harbor, he was as happy as a clam... Or maybe one of those adorable harbor seals. He recounted getting up close to the Aialik Glacier, seeing hump backs bubble net feed, stellar sea lions lounging on rocks and more. The Kansas farm boy had the best time on the water and we loved hearing him tell us about what he saw.

    We grabbed dinner in town and headed back to the cabin where the boys made a fire and we all enjoyed the evening.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Oceanna, our ride for the day.
    Entering into Northwestern Fjord. Absolutely stunning.Grateful that we got to go on this adventure together.Northwestern FjordNature always finds a way - these flowers sprouted all over the place from cracks in rocks.Loved the rock formations that have been cut by the glaciers over the millennia.Paddled up to this waterfall and felt its spray.Making our way closer to the glacier.For scale, zoom in on the bottom left of the glacier to see the tour boat down there.Watched a few small parts of this glacier calve.Glacial wind picked up!Survived the baby icebergs.Is it a whale or is it just some glacier ice?Curious little harbor seals kept tabs on us.Safe to say this was one of the highlights for us both.The bottom formations look like rocks, but they are glaciers. So stunning."Zombie glaciers" were kind of haunting, but a cool backdrop for our lunch.Never had a picnic lunch in a kayak on a fjord before!Loaded back onto the boat from the water.

    Day 8 pt. 1, Glacier Kayaking

    July 22 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    With Papa along on the trip, Nate and I had something we rarely get while traveling -- the opportunity to do something for just the two of us! When we started talking about things to do in Seward, we had different ideas. He was pretty keen on whale watching while I was more interested in seeing glaciers. As luck would have it, a friend recommended an excursion that gave us both. While it was one outing, I split it into two posts because they were both so extraordinary.

    We headed out with Liquid Adventures on a small boat with 7 other passengers & 3 crew/guides. They told us because of the winds, we would be heading to Northwestern Fjord, a little further out into the fjords than planned. The entire ride was incredible, but entering into the fjord was jaw dropping. I stayed outside in the front as long as I could, soaking it all in.

    Eventually they made us come in to gear up for getting on the water. Our day was unusually warm, so we were able to mostly wear just rain gear. The captain pulled up to a rocky beach and we all hopped off, getting our first glimpses of the glaciers and the ground they cut while the crew unloaded the boats. I picked up a few rocks that I thought the boys would like and we headed onto the water.

    It took us a few minutes to get used to tandem kayaking, but we eventually found our groove. Our guide took us along the edge of the fjord, pointing out waterfalls and rock formations. The scale of Northwestern Glacier is truly incredible. It took some squinting to realize one of the bigger tour boats was up next to the glacier, when I saw that my jaw nearly dropped as I began to understand the magnitude of it.

    As we paddled closer, chunks of ice started floating by. We paddle up to about half a mile from the glacier before we felt the glacial wind really rev up. At that point our guide redirected us back down the fjord and we bid farewell to Northwestern Glacier and assumed that we would be done. Wrong-o!

    We paddled a couple more miles and much to everyone's delight, a couple of harbor seals popped up, keeping tabs on us the second half of the trip. Eventually we rounded a corner to discover huge rock-like figures or what our guide called "zombie glaciers." These are glaciers that have broken off from the top half, but reconstituted to form something kind of new. Still ice and rock, just a little mixed.

    We finished this part of the morning with a picnic lunch of delicious burritos wraps while sitting on our kayaks in the middle of the fjord. Truly an amazing and unforgettable experience.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Bundled up on the back deck of the Oceanna.
    A pair of sea otters greeting us as we sailed out of the bay.Gorgeous views everywhere we looked.Loved these rock formations.Stellar Sea Lion hang out.All the creatures were happy to soak in the sun on this perfect day.Accidentally woke this beauty up. She slapped her arm at us A BUNCH. We think she was cranky w/us.Just after we spotted our first humpback who slapped his fin at us.Humpbacks!We counted 13 humpbacks in this pod.Bubble net feeding!Mountains and whales, Alaska really showed off for us today.Absolutely thrilling to witness bubble net feeding multiple times. These are some fat & happy whalesSmooth water as we began entering the fjords.Clouds rolled in as we came back into the bay, the water turned this beautiful blue'ish mint green.Thank you Resurrection Bay, Gulf of Alaska & the Fjords. You spoiled us!

    Day 8 pt. 2, Whale Watching

    July 22 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Whale watching was one of the things Nate was most interested in for our time in Seward. After hearing Papa recount his amazing experience on the water the day prior, we had high hopes for a good day of whale watching on our way to kayak, but also very much wanted to temper any expectations in case we came back empty handed.

    As it turns out, I've got a pretty good eye for whale spotting. Who knew? The first one I spotted was a Fin Whale, which evidently is a rare sighting. Our captain has been on the water for 10 years in Seward and this was his first time to see one. He left the wheel and came out to gawk like all the rest of us. The Fin Whale rolled along in front of us for only a few minutes, but she gave us a great view of her massive swimming fin. We now know that Fin Whales are the second largest whales.

    She passed by and we carried on, passing by Stellar Sea Lions lounging in the sun. Just as we passed them, I excitedly pointed out what I thought was a whale, but other folks said it was just a big log. My hopes were momentarily dashed until the log sprayed a big spout of water with its breath. Turns out the log was a napping humpback whale not far from our boat. He started slapping his arm for the next few minutes. It was a marvel to see that huge flipper up so close.

    We moved along and enjoyed the ride when I spotted what I first thought were weird waves or maybe logs near a rocky outcropping. We watched a few minutes more before the telltale water sprays started popping off. It was a pod of at least five or six humpbacks. The crew had seen this pod in the area for a few days, so we sat and watched them play for a while. They weren't feeding in the morning, but one was feeling frisky and leapt into a huge breech, causing a huge, breathtaking splash. We were gobsmacked at our absolute luck.

    After watching for a while, the captain reminded us that we needed to move on to make it to the kayaking destination. At that point I had almost forgotten there was more to the day than just whale watching. He noted that we may be able to catch more on the way back.

    And boy was he right. On the way back we arrived just in time for the frenzy that is bubble net feeding. This behavior has only been observed in whales around Seward in the last decade, and only lasts for a couple of weeks each year. The whales dive down together and blow bubbles, confusing the fish above, then the whales all surface at once, gorging themselves on the confused fish. Birds then dive-bomb, snatching up the whales' sloppy seconds. The whales repeated this several times, always whipping the birds and boats into a frenzy trying to guess where they'd breach next. My second favorite moment may have been when we heard spouting noises and looked over expecting to see a whale, only to find a sea lion who I firmly believe was solely out in the mix to make noises to confuse all of us on the boat. He was having the time of his life drawing attention away from the whales.

    The whole afternoon lived so far beyond our expectations. Everyone on our boat was slap-happy as we headed back to the bay.

    My only regret was that the boys didn't get to see the whales in action. While we were out, Papa took them on a 4 hour cruise of Resurrection Bay where they saw seals, otters and Stellar Sea Lions, but weren't likely to see any whales in the bay.

    We learned later, however, that their captain pulled an audible and sailed into the Gulf of Alaska after hearing about whales nearby. The boys were treated to a couple of very frisky whales who, as Papa said, were in the mood to show off. They jumped and breached at least 5 times. Everett ran from one side of the boat to the other with a hunch that one was going to breach on the opposite side and got a show nearly just for him.

    All three of them were jubilant recounting the scene to us. They may have also still been on a sugar high after slamming probably 100 oz of soda from the free refill cups Papa had bought them.

    The waters and whales treated us so incredibly well today. We all went to bed exhausted and feeling so lucky to get to experience this day.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Happy paddler.
    Papa and the boys!Holden's ready to explore!Salmon eggs1So glad Papa came along with us on this adventure.Bald Eagle was not remotely interested in us.Everett and Papa paddling along.The Bear Lake dynamic duo.Trying to get the salmon back into the lake.Salmon swimming to their destiny!Nate's view running up Mt. Marathon.View along Nate's run.View from the summit of Mt. Marathon.Mt. Marathon.Dinner at Ray's. Best view and food in town.1Loved this trip so much and adventuring with Papa.

    Day 9, Bear Lake, Mt. Marathon & Ray's

    July 23 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Wednesday was our last full day in Seward and I wanted to make sure the boys got a chance to get out and kayak while we were in the area. Papa agreed to join, so the four of us headed out for a paddling adventure while Nate decided to take a long run around Seward and up Mount Marathon.

    Our kayaking guides took us to Bear Lake where we got to see the salmon running and leaping for their reproductive lives. It was such a surprising experience to get to see this legendary practice in action.

    We paddled from one edge of the lake up to the salmon spawning site. Our guides pointed out newly laid salmon eggs and showed us salmon carcasses that bears had left. The salmon are so plentiful in this area that the bears only eat the salmon skin and leave the rest to rot or for other critters to nab. Our guide rescued one salmon who accidentally swam up the wrong way, which was funny to watch.

    We also spotted a pair of bald eagles perched near the salmon spawning area and walked through the temperate rain forest a bit, spotting bear tracks. It was really special to get to do this with Papa, who said he really enjoyed the morning on the lake, not something he gets to do much in Kansas and definitely much better scenery!

    While we paddled, Nate decided to try his luck at summiting Mount Marathon, right at the edge of Seward. It's a crazy-steep climb, and even though he took the more mild approach, his quads were still screaming as he neared the top. Between the incline and the gale force winds at the top, he was exhausted and happy by the time I picked him up.

    We were all pretty wiped out that afternoon and decided to take it easy, lounging, napping & playing games. We headed into town for our farewell dinner and finally snagged a table at Ray's where we got some of the best seating in the house. The food was as spectacular as the view. While we finished our drinks at the end of the meal, the boys ran out on the peer and saw a Stellar Sea Lion swimming in the harbor. Later we headed back to the cabin for one last fire and to finish off the last of our ice cream before we had to pack up and leave in the morning.

    It was the perfect ending to our stay in Seward.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    One of the most scenic highways in the country.
    I swear these mountains were not here when we drove by in the rain a few days ago.Checking out the wildlife center.Fireweed was the constant of our trip. Love this vibrant flower so much now.This sweet 24 yr old bear was brought here when she was discovered as a sick & abandoned cub.Bison at the Wildlife Center.Big Northern California vibes at Beluga Point.Of course Everett climbed up here first.The boys were STOKED about their room placement for the night.Papa really enjoyed watching the sea planes take off and land....and so did the boys.

    Day 10 - Travel Day to Anchorage

    July 24 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    With the sun shining and very few clouds, our drive back to Anchorage was a whole new experience compared to our rainy drive into Seward. The mountain peaks were stunning the entire way. This place has an embarrassment of beautiful riches, with mountains, lakes, vistas. And in maybe our most Alaskan nature spotting, we drove by a moose swimming through a lily pad pond.

    We stopped for a while at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, an open-air animal rescue filled with native wolves, coyotes, bears, moose, caribou, porcupines and more. Then got back on the road and stopped at Beluga Point, where the Papa stood lookout with his binoculars while we scurried up a huge boulder outcropping. This place gave me big Northern California vibes.

    We made it to our Airbnb and the boys went crazy for their loft bedroom. Later we stumbled into the most fun dinner location -- watching sea planes take off and land at Anchorage's small plane airport. It was the perfect night to watch these seaplanes get airborne.

    Service was slow, but food was decent. It was a pretty perfect night until Holden decided to hide in a bush and wondered what would happen if he blew on a bee. That sucker stung him right on the kisser, ballooning his lip right on up. The rest of the evening was spent hunting down ice packs and Benadryl.

    We also bid an early farewell to Papa whose flight had to change to an early departure Friday morning due to weather. We are so lucky he was able to join us on this trip. It was the cherry on top of all our adventures.    Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    Impromptu Learning Expedition, clipboards and all!
    Mini golf!Shout-out to the winter wilderness themed glo-golf creatures.Wanted to see how much we would glow.10p ice cream ✅

    Day 11 - Anchorage

    July 25 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Our time in Anchorage was really just a day to kill time into our 2am flight. It rained all day, so the limited ideas I had for outdoor activities were scratched. Instead we found a science museum with a fun scavenger hunt for the boys, hit up the movie theater to watch the new Fantastic Four movie, found a brewery for climbers and played a bunch of cards, ate at the most incredible hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant, made the most of Anchorage's glow-in-the-dark mini golf spot and finished the day off with ice cream at 10p before heading to the airport because we were just too tired to think of anything else to do.Read more

  • Amy PackerAlaska!Traveler
    E crashed out waiting for our turn to finally board.
    And immediately went to sleep on the plane before take-off.1Holden's side of the mom-pillow sandwich...1...and E's.

    Day 12 - Travel Day Home

    July 26 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Our flight took off sometime after 2a. It's all a blur at this point. But safe to say, Anchorage has got to have one of the busiest middle-of-the-night airports in the world. That place was hoppin' even if we weren't.

    Much like our flight to Alaska, the first one was delayed and we rushed to each subsequent gate. Thankfully no one left us. Both boys got motion sick/fatigue sick flying into DFW, but only Holden puked on the plane. So that was a fun treat for all our seat neighbors, but we powered through and made it home by 630p Eastern time. Now we just have to figure out how to go to sleep now that the sun sets for us again.

    Alaska, thank you for everything. This trip will always be in our hearts. It was such a gift to get to share this amazing land as a family.    Read more

    Trip end
    July 26, 2025
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