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- 日130
- 2017年11月6日月曜日
- ⛅ 17 °C
- 海抜: 45 m
ニュージーランドForrest Hill36°45’47” S 174°44’54” E
Auckland

We drove back to Auckland. Les and Keith, who we stayed with at the start of our journey, were happy to host us again. It was great to have a place to recharge, even after only 10 days on the road in Northland. But man, those 10 days had been packed full of cool adventures.
Les and Keith were patient, hearing out all our stories. And it was great hearing about their NZ experiences, their work and their own travel plans. They gave us more great tips about the rest of the country and even helped us searching for jobs, especially in wine-country (Napier/Hastings and Marlborough) ;)
It was really nice for us to eat luxuries food, be able to do laundry, get on wifi (Skype!), recharge electronics, and a hot shower! But really, who needs to shower, when you can swim in the ocean around every cove?
They set us off again on our journey, highly recommending us to see the Coromandel peninsula. It's the number one destination of Aucklanders, so it must have something going for it. We would soon find out!もっと詳しく
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- 日131
- 2017年11月7日火曜日
- ☀️ 22 °C
- 海抜: 20 m
ニュージーランドCoromandel36°45’41” S 175°29’53” E
Coromandel

We drove up the West coast of the Coromandel. A windy road hugged the sparkling blue ocean. It was low tide, so a bit of beach was exposed. But at high tide, the waves would be lapping against the rocks just below the road.
We struggled looking for campsites. Because of how popular Coromandel is among locals, everything is pricier. Freedom campers aren't appreciated, except on far-out beaches. So we caught a few great lookouts and hurried along.
Instead of driving all the way around the peninsula, we decided to take the pass that cut straight across to the East side of the Coromandel. Along the way was a Kauri trees walk for anyone who didn't have the time for Northland. We decided to stop in at Waiau Falls. Very nice!
We made our way down the other side of the pass. Here we found a good campsite that would be a perfect starting point for our two activities the next day.もっと詳しく
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- 日132
- 2017年11月8日水曜日
- ☀️ 22 °C
- 海抜: 海水位
ニュージーランドCathedral Cove36°49’39” S 175°47’25” E
Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach

The next day had two activities on the agenda: Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach. Exciting! These are highlights on everyone's list. They're very popular, but not overcrowded. It required a bit of planning around the weather and tide. Totally worth it.
Cathedral Cove is the postcard picture of New Zealand. A long coastal track takes you around several bays. Steep staircases bring you down to the beach in each bay, with awesome views of the eroded cliff-faces all around you. The last staircase also heads down to a beach. But as you look around, you quickly notice a large opening in the cliff on the beach. It's a giant cavern/tunnel, that allows the beach to continue straight through to the other side. It's huge. When you're inside it really does feel like you're in a cathedral.
The rock on the far side is also quite spectacular. You can see the waves eating away at its base. I wonder how long it will stand. And which unfortunate couple will be standing underneath, getting their picture taken, when it falls =O
Hot Water Beach, the name says enough. A hot spring brings scalding hot water (>60°C) up from underground. It seeps through the sand as it makes its way to the ocean. But it'd be a waste to let all that heat mix with the endless Big Blue. So, countless people dig out their own little hot tub, like giant kids in a sandbox. It's important not to dig where it's too hot. Some people are so excited, they just start digging, in a spot that everyone else clearly avoided. Within seconds you see them hopping, swearing and tip-toeing to a cooler spot of sand. The trick, which people kindly explained to us, is to dig your pool just off to the side. And carving small channels through the sand, direct just the right amount of hot water into your pool! Genious! It took a little experimenting, and assimilating other pools, before our pool was jusssst right. And as a bonus, running into the chilly ocean water and back into the hot tub felt great! We soaked until the sun set and the tide came up to fill all the pools.もっと詳しく
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- 日133
- 2017年11月9日木曜日 11:59
- ☀️ 15 °C
- 海抜: 27 m
ニュージーランドKarangahake37°25’21” S 175°43’15” E
Karangahake - Gold Rush

The drive leaving the Coromandel peninsula ended in a valley. This area was the center of a gold rush. Waihi, the bigger town, had a giant open pit mine. You could walk along the edge and take a look at the giant haul truck. Excurions go in but occasionally they still operate the mine as well.
A little further along the valley was the place where it all started, Karangahake. We learned about the interaction between Maori and European explorers. The Maori saw spiritual significance in the beautiful forest covered valley, carved out by long waterfalls and rapids. But as Europeans brought in luxuries, Maori quickly built up debt to them. When developers saw the potential of gold mining, they had to come to agreements with the Maori landowners. Although Maori originally resisted, developers used the Maori debt as leverage. They were quickly convinced they had to either sell the land or allow development and sell the gold itself.
Since the collapse of the gold rush, nature has quickly taken over the mining ruins. Old mine shafts are grown over and the buildings themselves have crumbled over time. Just a few well-built bridges, mine tunnels and rails are used as paths to teach visitors the history of this place. The process of mining, extraction, and disposing of waste rock in the river were interesting. And the beautiful waterfalls still remain, easier to access because of all this past activity. A bit bitter-sweet.もっと詳しく
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- 日133
- 2017年11月9日木曜日 23:59
- 🌙 13 °C
- 海抜: 15 m
ニュージーランドTauranga37°41’16” S 176°9’54” E
Tauranga

We drove to the next big city, Tauranga, in the Bay of Plenty. As we drove in, we quickly learned that this is (or will soon overtake Auckland as) the biggest port in NZ. Huge cruise ships anchored in the harbour. And large ships with logs and containers were loading and offloading supplies. We learned from our host that recently a containership had capsized. People had explored some of the containers that washed up on the beaches and found all sorts of interesting goodies. Oh oh oh =/
We went searching the beach for another sort of treasure. As we were laying in the sun, we saw clams washed up on the edge of the surf. Within no time, we had collected a few handfuls (indeed a Bay of Plenty). We went to a local sports complex to cook them up. Mmm, great supper. And as we were eating, we watched a local rugby team playing a practice match on the field in front of us.もっと詳しく
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- 日134
- 2017年11月10日金曜日
- ☀️ 19 °C
- 海抜: 7 m
ニュージーランドWharawhara Stream37°33’7” S 175°55’11” E
Working up a sweat - Part 1

We had a meeting with someone hiring for a kiwi orchard. He invited us into his house for our "interview". We're tall, so that's a benefit. We were told we would earn a piece rate of $7.75/kg and a fast picker could do 50kg in a day. Sounds good, right?! Soon after us another couple came in for their interview. We stuck around to hear their questions too.
We showed up at the farm the following morning. The farmer showed us the ropes. You pick kiwi flowers and drop them into a bag tied around your waist. The flowers are harvested for their pollen, which is sold to other farms to pollinate female (fruit-bearing) trees. In fact, this orchard had purely male trees and produced no fruit at all (no free kiwi fruit for us). Ripe flowers are white and soft, which means pollen has been produced. But they are still closed, otherwise 95% of pollen might already have fallen out or removed by bees, don't get stung! ;)
We kept track of how fast we were picking. We were only earning half of minimum wage! Maybe it was a steep learning curve, so we decided to give it one more chance. Because of the piece rate, you could set your own hours. There were no rules on where to go, so people were crisscrossing looking for the easiest to pick flowers. Even though we were picking as fast as we could, we didn't make much progress on our harvest. We weren't desperate for money, just trying to balance the budget we had set. So we decided to move on and try somewhere else, where our time might be more productive. All other people had already quit on the first day...
We told the farmer, who turned out not to be our "boss". He explained that the pollen mill actually hires the farmhands. They hold the strings and pay the farmer per weight of flowers, minus penalties for poor quality. He didn't have any sway over wages and totally understood our position. We had a nice chat with him about permaculture. He was applying some principles, planned to implement others, and would fully apply it for his home garden.もっと詳しく
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- 日137
- 2017年11月13日月曜日
- ☀️ 19 °C
- 海抜: 7 m
ニュージーランドMaunganui Roads37°38’19” S 176°11’1” E
Mount Maunganui

On one of our first nights in New Zealand, we met Adam and Jake. They were our two American roommates in the Auckland hostel. They're super laid back, have lots of mechanic-know-how and had many stories to tell. They bought a van just before us and were always cruising ahead, roughly along the same road.
We caught up with them again in Tauranga. They were staying with Michael, a Kiwi/Canadian friend, for a month. They invited us to come stay there as well. It was great to play some games, explore the surroundings, cook and bake in a proper kitchen, and just hang out.
Like our first evening, we drank some beers while playing Yahtzee. After which we went eel-fishing in the dark. We were wading through shin-deep water with sharp spears... not the smartest idea after drinking. Not surprisingly, no success. More surprisingly, no (lasting) injuries.
The next day we went to the Mount Brewing Company, under Mount Maunganui. The guys "picked up" some girls, drank more beers (we made a veggie platter for a balanced diet) while playing Yahtzee, and stargazed on the roof. It's like we landed in a whole different world. To top it off, the girls were incredible singers while playing guitar!
In the morning, we had a coffee near Mount Maunganui, went to the beach and walked around and up the Mount. Great 360° views of the ocean, the city and ships below. We got back to Michael's, baked some garlic bread and banana loaf. Later we made some fresh hummus and a giant brownie. We could get used to this =)
All together, we spent one week at Michael's. Some nights we slept in the van, some nights in their spare bed. It was great to relax with new friends, have some of the luxuries of home, explore the area and work on self-containment for our van!もっと詳しく
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- 日138
- 2017年11月14日火曜日
- ☀️ 14 °C
- 海抜: 420 m
ニュージーランドWairere Falls37°44’2” S 175°52’49” E
Wairere Falls

Through Tinder, the guys met a Canadian girl who was interested in doing a hike. What a great way to also meet someone with similar interests..
We decided to go to Wairere Falls, North Island's highest waterfall at 153m! The hike went over big boulders and through the forest. We followed and crossed the creek many times before we reached the lookout from the bottom of the falls.
But we were going to the top, of course. A well-built, but steep staircase took us a significant way up. Then more trails through the forest brought us to the upper lookout platform. The water spilt over the edge of a sheer cliff and fell a longgg way down. The view of the valley down below was awesome. And we had come up just in time. On the far side of the valley, dark clouds were rolling down the mountains.
But up here, it was still sunny. And we didn't bring up our bathing suits and water shoes for nothing ;) The flow of water over the rocks was very shallow, so it was easy to skip over the rocks to the edge of the waterfall itself. The water fell just a few meters into a small rock pool a few meters wide, before tumbling down the big falls itself. After a long hike up it was great to get refreshed in the chilly mountain water, in a natural infinity pool. Sweet!
Adam had brought up his drone to take a video of the falls. Seeing ourselves up there from a birds-eye view was pretty spectacular. Check it out here:
https://www.facebook.com/adam.kruer/posts/10156…もっと詳しく
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- 日141
- 2017年11月17日金曜日 23:59
- 🌙 15 °C
- 海抜: 15 m
ニュージーランドTauranga37°41’16” S 176°9’54” E
Stan the Van – Part 2

In Tauranga, we got a few upgrades.
Freedom camping, sleeping in your vehicle, is allowed by New Zealand law. Many freedom camping sites, however, require a van to be certified self-contained. This means being able to be self-sufficient, without dumping waste, for 3 days. The idea is to protect the environment, although all campsites have toilets anyway. For the non-self-contained, the only alternative is wild camping, paying $15pp for a holiday park or risk a $200 fine. That was enough incentive for us to certify.
And we were almost there anyway, sort-of. The requirements are:
* 24L fresh water storage (3 days x 2 persons x 4L). We already had two 10L containers plus water bottles.
* 24L waste water storage. We bought a cheap 25L plastic tank that stows underneath our bed.
* 10L capacity Porta-Loo (toilet) (3 days x 2 persons x +/-2L). It was the most expensive part, but professional and hygienic. It was definitely worth it for wild camping or unbearable outhouses.
* A seal-able rubbish (garbage) container. An all-purpose, plastic tub does the trick, just for smelly garbage. Recycling glass, cans and plastic makes the small garbage not fill as fast.
Of course, the most important upgrade was the Christmas lights! ;)
Some extra requirements were a bit trickier to meet and varied per certifying officer. We were creative, meeting the hard rules and dodging impractical “nice-to-have's”:
* The waste-water must be plumbed, with a “serviceable” smell trap and vent. We connected a funnel from the kitchen to the 25L tank using a hose and valve. One certifying officer wanted a loop in the hose to create a water lock, another didn't find this serviceable and required a specific component. We bought the component but took it out after certifying. The valve keeps out the smell sufficiently. The vent has stumped us though. An extra hole is inconvenient when emptying the tank. And, by definition, a vent would let out the smell into the van.
* A plumbed hand-basin with tap is required. We made a small basin out of a plastic bowl. A car oil siphon acts as a make-shift, manual pump/tap. Both sink and tap take up too much space, while we do our dishes (and occasional laundry) in a separate bucket anyway. Pouring fresh water from the container and pouring waste-water down the funnel is much more practical. A small sieve prevents solids from plugging the valve. So, we also removed these two after certifying.
* Fresh water tanks must be black/opaque to prevent algae growth. We bought black spray paint for our containers. But we haven't used it. We much prefer to see what's in our water. And no algae have grown in it yet.
* The toilet must be usable when the bed is made, with enough elbow and head room. It is not allowed in the front seat, because that is disrespectful. We showed we could use the toilet in the back while the bed is made, even if it's uncomfortable and we never use it this way. Instead, it sits in the box under our bed. If we need to use it, which is rarely, we do so before making the bed while it still sits in the box.
We ran around late-Friday afternoon between the two certifying officers and figured whose requirements we could more easily meet. With two hours before the weekend, one told us to buy the parts and come back Monday. We ran around like a reality TV show race, bought all our parts, pieced the system together, but didn't glue anything. With 5 minutes to spare, and impressed with our effort, he signed our page! We were officially self-certified. We would have to pick up our sticker, but from now on, we'd legally be allowed to camp (almost) anywhere for free.もっと詳しく
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- 日142
- 2017年11月18日土曜日
- ☀️ 17 °C
- 海抜: 289 m
ニュージーランドRotorua38°8’13” S 176°14’59” E
Rotorua

With the guys heading off for a long weekend to Lake Taupo, it was time for us to hit the road again too. Three roads go down to the Southern tip of the North Island, to Wellington:
1. Middle - Who could pass up the volcanoes and geysers of Rotorua? Not us!
2. East - It's a beautiful coast and we were willing to back-track to sample some wines.
3. West - It was too bad we would miss out on Mt Taranaki. We later heard it's just as spectacular.
We quickly bypassed Matamata, where Hobbiton (the Shire, from Lord of the Rings) still exists. Crazy tourist prices and hoards of people quickly turned us off that idea.
Adrenaline sports also draw many people. So we stopped in at Kaituna Cascades, just to view, people going down white-water rapids. Even from high and dry, watching the 7m drop by the rubber boats made your stomach churn. A boat would creep up through the dark trees, slip over the edge, and disappear under the white foam of the falls. Then, it, along with all its passengers, popped back out of the water.
The steep cliffs surrounding the pool were actually used by Maori in case of a tribal battle. Women and children would be let down with ropes to hide in the caves. Nowadays, a steep staircase chiselled in the rocks lets you see the gloomy caves for yourself.
We drove on to Rotorua, the center of volcanic activity. Both figuratively, from a tourist perspective, and literally as hot mud, steam and sulphur gases bubble out of the ground in all of the parks in town. We walked around to see, hear, smell and even feel the hot steam wafting over the grassy central park.
The town itself was really cute. It took a bit after an Austrian mountain village. A large government building stood out, despite the (actual) lawn-bowling lanes leading up to the entrance. A rose garden to the side provided a nice breath of fragrant air and some bright colours compared to the gray volcanic mud.もっと詳しく
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- 日143
- 2017年11月19日日曜日 11:59
- ☀️ 14 °C
- 海抜: 299 m
ニュージーランドPohutu geyser38°9’48” S 176°15’15” E
Pohutu Geyser

We had slept in a parking lot on the edge of Rotorua. From here we saw an occasional cloud of geyser steam rise above the buildings. We didn't have far to go to see this great geyser, the Pohutu geyser. We had learned not to follow the herds. They went into the volcanic "theme park", on boardwalks around the geysers. But we had learned about a mountainbike trail above the back of the park that gave a great birds-eye view of the whole area.
The geyser was steaming continuously. But once in a while, you could see hot water gushing out. The water quickly flashed and more steam would rise up into the air. We sat for an hour as the geyser revved up and calmed down again. Rotorua spread out behind it, with Lake Rotorua in the background.
But with hot water coming out of the ground, there is more to see than just geysers. The heat allows thermophillic (heat loving) bacteria of all sorts of colours to grow. And the minerals brought up by the steam create all sorts of hues in the water. So our next hike was at the rainbow lakes. A steady walk took us along two deep emerald green lakes. And the steaming exposed rocks in the mountain side bled an ochre red colour against the white stone and green forest.
We climbed all the way to the top to enjoy a 360° view of the area. For as far as you could see, bright green, grassy Hobbit hills spread in every direction!もっと詳しく
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- 日143
- 2017年11月19日日曜日 23:59
- 🌙 12 °C
- 海抜: 352 m
ニュージーランドWaikokomuka Stream38°20’5” S 176°23’9” E
Kerosene Creek

Our campsite that evening was along Kerosene Creek. It smells a little like sulphur. Why would we camp there, if it smells?
All along the creek, geothermal water seeps up through the creek bed. It's similar to Hot Water Beach. But instead of flowing straight to sea, the hot water mixes with, and warms up, the stream! The creek was an ideal 30-35°C, not hot, but very comfortable.
We got our bathing suits on, hung our towel in a tree and hopped in. We sat right above a small waterfall as the warm water rushed past. After our day of hiking, this was a great way to relax.
We explored a little further downstream the creek. Here a 3m warm waterfall plunged into a deep pool. The ultimate (natural) jacuzzi!
We stayed there for the night. So, the next morning, we went for round 2. Because of the chilly night air, mist was coming off the water. And with the morning sunlight shining through the trees, the sunbeams were quite spectacular. You could spend hours soaking it all up.
As we were leaving, we met two awesome German girls, Sonni and Anna. They had camped the night in a convertible. They were traveling and WWOOF'ing (working for room and board). We would cross paths a few more times along the trip.もっと詳しく
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- 日144
- 2017年11月20日月曜日
- ☀️ 19 °C
- 海抜: 361 m
ニュージーランドLake Tutaeinanga38°19’38” S 176°18’10” E
Waikite Valley ("Jurassic Walk")

After our fill of Kerosene Creek, we continued to more geothermal marvels.
We tried to get a glimpse of Lady Knox Geyser, part of another "geothermal themepark". This was as secure as Fort Knox, and we weren't willing to pay for the attraction. At the same time each day, they pour soap into the geyser to make it erupt. We later heard that it hadn't reacted at all..
Instead, we went to a nearby area with mud pools. No, you can't go mudding in the pools. The water/steam that comes out is 100°C here. But the effects are really cool. The hot water has dissolved a lot of minerals and created a big, muddy soup. And like a thick, boiling, pot of soup, the mud sputters on its geothermic "stove". Once in a while, a big splatter of mud got flung into the air. "Bloob.. bloob.. bloob". In other spots, the mud bubbled/boiled continuously. All the while, steam danced over the entire mud pool as the wind swirled it one way and another.
Nearby, a nature walk took us to the source of hot spring pools. We first walked past the pools, where you had the choice of cool, warm, hot, very hot, and private pools. They had created an interpretive trail along the creek from which they drew their water. The valley was filled with steam, and only the occasional gust of wind would show the water below. The steam crawled up through the rainforest ferns and trees. It looked like Jurassic Park or Land Before Time! At the end of the trail we got to the source of the creek, a big spring. Boiling water was rising to the surface and gushing steam up over the walkway. Some spots were too hot to stand at times. You can just imagine all the energy just below the ground!
After that hot walk, we decided to go for another swim. Similar to Kerosene Creek, Hot-Cold spring has a creek that is fed by geothermal water. Except this water is much hotter, easily 40°C, like a hot tub. And it continuously flows down the creek. But as it flows into a large swimming hole, a cold creek also joins up. In the middle, water from both creeks mixed, and you could find a spot that was just the right temperature for you. It was especially fun to alternate, sitting in the hot stream, then letting the fast flowing, cold stream carry you downstream like a lazy river. Then, repeat! Fantastic!もっと詳しく
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- 日145
- 2017年11月21日火曜日
- ⛅ 24 °C
- 海抜: 346 m
ニュージーランドHuka Falls38°38’55” S 176°5’24” E
L.Taupo, Craters of the Moon, Huka Falls

Even after our geyser and hot spring experiences, more geothermal wonders were ahead. We spent the night on the shore of Lake Taupo, the biggest lake of NZ, 28km across. It's not just any lake though. It's the caldera (crater) of a supervolcano that erupted 26500 years ago, the world's largest eruption in the past 70000 years! Wow! The view, with the snow-covered mountains in the back, was beautiful!
We walked through an area called "Craters of the Moon". Large craters in the ground were caused when steam fumeroles got blocked, built up pressure, and then exploded in a small but violent eruption! Because of a geothermal plant that was built a few decades ago, the activity of the geysers had changed. Steam is still flowing out of the ground. But now there aren't any violent eruptions anymore. Instead, the area of the site has grown significantly.
We visited the Aratiatia Rapids, a once powerful river. Now a large hydro plant diverts most of the water to produce electricity. But a few times per day, they open the floodgates and let the river roar. A streambed that is almost dry fills up within 30 minutes and turns into a foaming, white water rapid.
A short drive upstream brought us to Huka Falls, a real gusher! It has the most water flow over it of any falls in NZ. A gorge funnels huge amounts of water from Lake Taupo to a big drop. It's impressive!もっと詳しく
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- 日146
- 2017年11月22日水曜日 5:00
- 🌙 2 °C
- 海抜: 1,113 m
ニュージーランドPukeonake39°8’40” S 175°34’51” E
Tongariro Crossing Part 1/4 - The Ascent

We camped along a logging road. The alarm was set for 5:00. It was still dark but the sky was starting to glow red behind Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom). Today we’d hike the Tongariro Crossing.
Mats dropped off Jenna at the start and brought the van to the finish. From there a shuttle, full with 20 people, and another 10 buses like it were racing down to the start. And another 4 starting times likely had similar numbers of people. It’s a really popular hike.
We were eager to get going ahead of the crowd. We got our legs on and walked towards the looming Mt Doom and Mt Tongariro. The sun came out and things warmed up quick. A short side-track took us to Soda Spring, a waterfall with yellow buttercup flowers growing all around it. We didn't linger, the Devil’s Staircase was ahead! At the start of the steep incline, signs warned unfit or unprepared people not to go any further. Looking behind us, the view became more and more impressive. The volcanic rocks were black and we could see the past lava flows and rock slides from Mt Doom.もっと詳しく
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- 日146
- 2017年11月22日水曜日 12:00
- ☀️ 14 °C
- 海抜: 2,223 m
ニュージーランドMount Ngauruhoe39°9’25” S 175°37’56” E
Tongariro Crossing Part 2/4 - Mt Doom

Many people hike the Tongariro Crossing, but few brave the slopes of Mt Doom. So, of course, Mats wanted to do it. Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings), is the tallest point of the hike, at 2291m high. The last lava flow was in 1954, although it last erupted (smoke and ash) in 1975.
At the base, the walking was easy, stepping around loose rocks and shrubs, even though there was no defined path. The incline slowly increased, and the sandy ground (scree) was tiring to walk on. The easiest route was over the old lava slide. Up higher, a path had formed in the scree. But it branched, one way over a rocky ridge, another through a small valley straight up. Occasionally a round rock would roll down from climbers above, so it was important to always keep an eye up, and ears open. The hike was tough and slow, the sand kept sliding down as you tried to crawl up on hands and feet. The slope was about 45°.
Loose rocks were getting into my sandals, so I tried bare feet. The real Hobbit experience! It was surprisingly comfortable, since most of the ground was sand. Getting on the ridge made the climb much easier because of the solid footing. After an hour and a half of the slow ascent, I made it to the rim of Mt Doom. There were snowy patches up here but steam was also escaping from the red rocks. Looking over the far edge of the rim, the view stretched far and wide (over Mordor). The landscape was completely different from anywhere else we had been so far. Looking North, Mt Tongariro. Looking South Mt Ruapehu.
You could walk a half loop around the rim, but an icy hill went to the highest point. It was quite slippery. On bare hands and keens, the scramble up was difficult, and cold! But when I reached the top, it was totally worth it. I was standing on the edge of the volcanic crater. The rim below had just been a plateau to the side. The crater was really deep, covered in snow on one side, and fiery red rock on the other. Stunning!
On the other side of the crater, the snowy slope slid back down to the plateau. Sitting on the little backpack, I slid down the side of the volcano. How cool is that?! The walk down was much easier. Although I was still getting rocks in my shoes, sliding down the sandy slopes on my feet was fun, kind of like skiing. On the flatter part, I skipped around the rocks and bushes to get back to Jenna. It had been a three-hour return.
In the meantime, Jenna had a relaxing lunch, read a book and took a quick nap.もっと詳しく
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- 日146
- 2017年11月22日水曜日 15:00
- ☀️ 18 °C
- 海抜: 1,777 m
ニュージーランドRed Crater39°7’60” S 175°38’60” E
Tongariro Crossing Part 3/4 - Red Crater

We continued the main tramp. We crossed the southern Crater, a very flat area created by runoff from the surrounding mountains. We made a steep ascent to Red Crater, one of the active volcanic cones in the area. You could see how the walls of the crater were formed by recent eruptions. And the colour was a brilliant, fiery red. We climbed higher, up the scree along the edge of the crater, to the highest point of the main tramp, and continued down the other side. As soon as we crested, we could see the beautiful emerald lakes below us. Getting closer, we could smell the sulphur, see more steam coming from the rocks and eventually see the beautiful orange trim around the green lakes. Cool!
We passed through the Central Crater and continued up the other side. Looking back, you could see the black tongue of a recent lava flow that had spilled out of the Red Crater. Bright, white snow patches were nestled in the shadows against the black rock. Very dramatic.もっと詳しく
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- 日146
- 2017年11月22日水曜日 18:00
- ☀️ 20 °C
- 海抜: 746 m
ニュージーランドOkahukura Bush39°4’25” S 175°39’50” E
Tongariro Crossing Part 4/4 - Descent

On the other side was blue lake, which didn’t seem quite as special as the emerald ones (all water is blue after all). Just around the corner was a backhoe. Time to take down a mountain!
From here we made our final descent. The path sloped down gradually. The rocky hills turned to shrubbery, with occasional hot springs or steam fumaroles in between. Eventually we entered a forest. A creek crossed the path with warning signs for Lahars. We later learned that these are mudslides of ash, water, snow, and volcanic material that can reach up to 100km/hr. Luckily for us, all was quiet. We passed a small but pretty waterfall in the woods, before making our way out to the carpark. It had been a long day, 10 hours, but the sights had been well worth it!
In the parking lot, we got into our bathing suits and hang our solar shower off the van. Mats had placed it on the roof before the hike in the morning so it was really hot. Very refreshing! It was nice to get into some clean clothes.
A few km’s further, along the highway, we found some hitchhikers. Two young, German guys. They were in luck, we were headed in the same direction. After having done the Tongariro Crossing, they were probably sick of walking. And they never would have made it to the town called National Park (+/- 50km away).
We continued to a small town past National Park. It was quiet there and the stars were beautiful at night. We slept great after all our hiking. What an amazing day!もっと詳しく
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- 日147
- 2017年11月23日木曜日
- ☀️ 21 °C
- 海抜: 1,122 m
ニュージーランドWaipuna Stream39°12’2” S 175°32’22” E
Whakapapa Mountain Village

We awoke to knocking on our van window. Oh shit! When you know vans are checked for self-containment and that we didn't have our sticker yet, you put two and two together surprisingly quickly! You assume the worst and wake up immediately off the adrenaline rush. Talk about a guilty conscience. Jenna to the rescue! Of course, we were already certified. And when Jenna showed the officer a copy of our signed application form, he was content and moved on.
We drove to the train station in "National Park", the town for their facilities, cleaned up and relaxed to recover from the previous day. We ran into the hitchhikers again, but this time they were waiting for the train.
We planned to spend the afternoon in and around Whakapapa (pronounced "fakapapa"). This is a village based around wintersport but has many hiking trails in the summer. It has a large chateau, which looks impressive under the looming Mt Ruapehu. A reporter had been sent here a few days before a large eruption. Through patience and a good deal of luck, he managed to capture it on camera. A very well-done information center (i-Site) explained the region's volcanic history.
Mats jogged a 6km loop to loosen up after the Tongariro Crossing. It took him past two nice waterfalls and onto an escarpment overlooking the surrounding landscape. Mt Ngauruhoe was as symmetrical from this side as the view from the hike the previous day. A perfect cone. And Mt Ruapehu dominated the view to the other side. A well-defined edge of a lava flow from Mt Ruapehu gave a good impression of how much material can be released during an eruption. And "ranger Mats" found an oil-looking substance on the edge of the river and reported it to the i-Site. After sharing pictures and a call to the head-ranger for the park, we were assured that it was a bacteria that formed the rainbow coloured film on the water.
With our minds at ease, we drove to another small walk to a waterfall. We joined the cue of seniors scrambling up the staircase. The falls plunged into a large pool, which we later learned was Gollum's Forbidden Pool from Lord of the Rings. Nice!
We backtracked to another campsite on the East side of Lake Taupo. We planned to cut across to the East coast. We relaxed on the edge of the water, cooked ourselves a feast of large mussels and enjoyed the beautiful sunset over the water. Ahh...もっと詳しく
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- 日148
- 2017年11月24日金曜日
- ☀️ 16 °C
- 海抜: 438 m
ニュージーランドShine Falls39°6’23” S 176°51’21” E
East coast & Shine falls

We took the highway to cut across to the East coast. We particularly wanted to go to Napier/Hastings for its wine region, but it also gave us a chance to catch some natural highlights along the coast.
A turnoff indicated by an inconspicuous looking sign turned out to lead 50m to a lookout over a massive waterfall! Its incredible how easy it is to get stunning views here with no effort.
We continued until we saw the bright blue ocean rise above the horizon. It had only been a week since we had seen the ocean, but all the volcanic impressions in between made the ocean look alien. And the cloudless sky, along with the green and red "Christmas trees" (pahutakawa), made the scenery look like a supervivid camera setting (although these pictures really are unedited)!
We drove through a rolling landscape of green hills and craggy rocks. It made us think back to our time on the Isle of Skye in Scotland. It was a long drive through farm fields to a not-often-visited nature trail. This park is considered a biodiversity island (on the mainland) of native species. Strict controls, through regulations, fences and hunting are slowly recovering the natural habitat. We saw large native pigeons (double the size of our city friends) and several other birds, flowers and trees.
But the main highlight of this sidetrip by far was Shine Falls with its impressive 58m (or 190ft) height. As we walked through the forest, we could hear the rumble of the falls. And soon after, the top of the veil became visible through the tree tops. A small river fanned out over the rockface to create a spectacular drapery hanging over a large but shallow, sandy pool. We braved our way into the ice-cold water, to get as close to the falls as possible. Close to the falls, the bottom dropped off and we each took turns swimming under the misty shower of the falls itself. What a sensation!
We quickly scrambled out of the water to dry off and warm up. The wet and shadowy canyon made us extra motivated to get back into the sunlight. What a great day!もっと詳しく
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- 日149
- 2017年11月25日土曜日
- ☀️ 8 °C
- 海抜: 9 m
ニュージーランドNapier City39°29’34” S 176°54’43” E
Napier Wine region

We had found a campsite back along the main road, at the start of a short waterfall hike. Unfortunately, it turned out to also be a popular local hangout. Teens drove into the gravel parking lot and "drifted" into a parking spot on their e-brakes. It kicked up a huge dust cloud where we were cooking. Just ignore them...
Another, more welcome visitor joined us well. Hopping between flax plants, the famous NZ bird, a Tui, joined us for supper. It was enjoying the sweet nectar from the flax plant's colourful flowers. It has a beautiful distinctive call!
The following morning, Mats did a quick jog to the two waterfalls. But we didn't hang around long because we had a long drive ahead of us. We did stop in at a local market, their annual fair. We admired the crafts, confectionary and games put on by locals. Beside the elegant wood-carving of sacred animals, we found flavoured olive oils, honey, lavender products, home-brew organic fertilizers, a smash-a-car contest, a baseball water-dunk tank and go-karts. But most notable was a flower shop that made funny funeral flower casket bouquets. Such as a manly one, complete with beer cans and tools propped between cacti.
But instead of trying local produce here, we were excited about sampling some wines. We visited the oldest estate, Mission Estate Wineries, which now ownes a large share of other wineries in the region. It was interesting to see some of the old equipment used here. They also had a nice cabinet of very old wines, sherry and port, with labels coloured and peeling. We felt way underdressed at their elegant tasting room and restaurant. So we did our tasting at Ngatarawa winery instead. A very friendly and knowledgeable somalier took us through a wide range of wines that they made. Tasting different wines side-by-side, along with a good explanation, opened our taste buds to the wide range of tastes and smells. It was in the same way that exiting the Waipu caves had opened our eyes to the wide range of colours.もっと詳しく
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- 日150
- 2017年11月26日日曜日 10:00
- ☀️ 15 °C
- 海抜: 13 m
ニュージーランドCastlepoint40°53’51” S 176°13’10” E
Castlepoint Headland

Castlepoint is an often skipped destination. It's a long winding road from the highway as most people head for Wellington and the South Island. Mostly locals visit this area. For them it's the closest beach. But are we ever glad that several kiwi's had highly recommended making the side trip here. The scenery created by ocean waves carving out the limestone rocks is magnificent. A small parking lot allowed 12 vehicles to freedom camp in the dunes. Luckily we could nestle our minivan between several large RV's. We took a quick look around the lighthouse, overlooking the surrounding, before starting our evening routine. We'd save our main exploration until the following day. It was fun to watch locals take their cars, trucks and dirtbikes onto the hard sand of the beach and do donuts. Although we were happy when they stopped making such a ruckus!
In the morning we did a short hike around the bay, making a steep climb onto a large headland. From here the view overlooked many bays in the distance. A local we met at the top had come back many times after her son had gotten married up there. The rocks are carved out from underneath, making the headland look like a large cresting wave! Many small but colourful flowers have made the salt sprayed rocks their habitat.
On our way down from the headland, several people had told us that a seal was hanging out on the stairs. It was injured. It had one eye closed with scars and wasn't moving. We sat down a few steps higher up and wondered if we should get some help. It growled at us when we tried to get closer. As we saw more seals later during the trip, we learned that seals are just generally lazy. It was probably more disturbed by us interrupting her sunbathing than she was suffering from her injuries. In fact, she had climbed a long way up the stairs to find this sunny spot. We scrambled down in a big loop around where she lay and continued our stroll on the beach.
There was a nice stroll around the lighthouse. It had some interpretive signs about the native flower species. And all over the headland, fossilized sea shells were sticking out of the exposed rocks.
At low tide, a cave underneath the lighthouse was accessible. According to myths, a giant octopus lurked here! Not knowing what the tide was, Mats wanted to go look for the entrance. A few people were fishing along the rocks in the direction of the cave. Scrambling over the rocks, Mats slowly made his way along the shore. At one point, another seal was "guarding" the path. Mats tip-toed around her, trying not to disturb her sunbathing. Abruptly, the rocks ended in a channel that flowed back and forth with the waves. The channel led into the cave! Apparently the tide was not low. On the opposite side of the channel, a large male seal was "barking" loudly. Mats jumped into the channel, up to his waist and waded into the cave. Scrambling back onto the rocks, a female seal inside was startled and ran out to the sea. Mats quickly got out of her way. Looking deeper into the cave, an exit was visible on the other side. It was a tunnel carved underneath the lighthouse! With every wave hitting the ocean side, a large rumble echoed through the tunnel. Exciting! Unfortunately the water was too deep and rough to explore any further.もっと詳しく
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- 日150
- 2017年11月26日日曜日 15:00
- ☀️ 15 °C
- 海抜: 8 m
ニュージーランドCape Palliser41°36’44” S 175°17’18” E
Cape Palliser

We drove to Cape Paliser, known for its lighthouse and more recently for a large seal colony. But the drive there was already spectacular. The bright blue ocean on a sunny day was a pleasant ride. The coast line alternated between beaches and large boulders. The latter being ideal to spot seals. We kept our eyes peeled but didn't see any for most of the drive. But then we saw a bunch of cars pulled over on the side of the road. Maybe this was our chance. As we got out, we noticed about 20 seals lounging in the grass and on the rocks. We went for a closer look.
Just a little further along the road we spotted more seals. But here no one else was hanging out with them. They were spaced about 10m apart, so we could walk around them between the rocks. Most were lazy, some were playing in the water, some were hopping to find a better spot. Ahh, what a life!
It had become cloudy and it started to rain. We got back in the car to go to the lighthouse. A straight, steep, 252-step staircase led straight up the mountain. From the lighthouse you got a great vantage point of the surrounding coastline. Although the weather didn't let you see too far. And the howling wind made it hard to keep your balance. Nonetheless, the rocky shore was impressive in itself.
We decided to take one more look at the seals in a different spot. Three males were sitting upright, sizing each other up. We watched them for a while. Sometimes they would bark at each other, or one would charge at another. All intimidation though, and no action. But hiding just behind a rock was a female, with a small pup drinking milk. So cute! And just a few meters away, another pup was hiding under a big rock.
That night we camped at the entrance of the Pinnacles. It was really close to the shore so in the evening we went to see the sunset. It was really colourful!もっと詳しく
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- 日151
- 2017年11月27日月曜日
- ☀️ 21 °C
- 海抜: 12 m
ニュージーランドPutangirua Stream41°27’0” S 175°13’31” E
Putangirua Pinnacles & Rivendell (LOTR)

Today would be a Lord of the Rings day. From our campsite we could walk straight to the Pinnacles, the mountains where Aragorn and his companions met the Army of the Dead.
We walked a loop, first getting a high ground perspective of the formation. Gravel and limestone get washed out, creating canyons. But a few harder headstones protect small patches from eroding. Underneath these headstones, large pillars called pinnacles are formed. In several spots along the hike, you could see down into the valley where several of these bunches had been carved out.
We then made the steep descent into the valley to walk among the pinnacles, just like Aragorn did. This really gave an impression of their size. It was fun to scramble up the rocks to explore the maze of pillars. In some places, trees had fallen into the canyon and got stuck between the narrow walls. We walked down the streambed to make it back to our campsite.
On the drive to Wellington we noticed a sign for Rivendell! We had to go check that out. The area is a natural park with many hiking trails. A small area was marked as the area where the set was built. The beech trees and colourful flowers are the only recognizable objects remaining. But several signs indicated the camera angles to compare the scenery to the movie. And the archway into Rivendell had been put back in place.
In both cases, we weren't such diehard fans that we could recognize exactly what was filmed where. But you could definitely imagine the story taking place there. And regardless the nature was beautiful to see in its own right.もっと詳しく
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- 日152
- 2017年11月28日火曜日
- ☀️ 18 °C
- 海抜: 17 m
ニュージーランドWellington Ferry Port41°17’26” S 174°46’56” E
Wellington - Te Papa Museum

We continued to Wellington, the capital of New Zealand. It's known as Windy Wellington for the unrelenting winds and storms that hit Wellington year round. Luckily, we brought the good weather with us. We had an appointment to pick up our Self Containment sticker. It felt good to finally put it on, after our hustle to get the certification in Tauranga. And now we wouldn't have to worry about showing our papers anymore.
We had two full days in Wellington as we waited for the ferry to take us to the South island. We decided to check out the free Te Papa museum. In our opinion, this is the best museum in NZ. It has everything, on five floors. You could easily spend several days here learning about the most important aspects of NZ.
The first exhibit was about biodiversity. A huge collection of sea shells, models of birds and large marine wildlife gave an impression of the huge variety of life that NZ has. The most impressive was a preserved giant octopus, many meters long, in a clear display case. It was also interesting to learn more about the still alive and extinct bird species, such as the kiwi, dodo, moa and the giant hawk that hunted the moa.
A different exhibit talked about tectonic activity, and how that affects NZ. The damage caused by recent earthquakes was shown through interactive displays and pictures. It showed how NZ is part of the bigger picture, being on the edge of the Pacific Rim. But also how this has shaped the geography (specifically the mountain ranges) of the islands. One room gave a feel for the immense size and temperatures within the Earth. And rocks of different weights showed how much difference there is in densities of different layers in the Earth.
The most impressive floor demonstrated the impact that the arrival of humans, first the Maori, and later the Europeans, has had on NZ. It showed a lot of emotion at lost biodiversity, inspiring conservation. But it presented the events objectively and without judgement, not placing blame on specific people. Circumstances were different. Regardless, there is still a lot we have to learn. In particular, NZ used to be covered in forest. This was cleared and burned by Maori to create gardens for food. With the settlement of Europeans, greater exploitation of resources began. In 80 years, half the land was converted to pasture. Immigrant Herbert Guthrie-Smith called the destruction and disappearance of indigenous plants and animals as "a sad, bad, mad, incomprehensible business." Additionally, an overview of the farming lifestyle, change in production and the change in ownership from Maori to European people was discussed.
The final floor we went to was dedicated to Maori culture. We explored many beautiful wooden carvings, a large canoe and religious house. Traditions were explained and we could listen to Maori music. And the myths that explained the arrival of Maori from across the ocean were shared. Three symbols represent the Maori (people's) interpretation of "mauri" (life force).
1. The "ko" (digging tool) - symbolizes our connection to "whenua" (the land)
2. The "toki poutangata" (ceremonial adze) - symbolizes "tangata" (the people)
3. The "tauihu" (canoe prow) - symbolizes "korero" (the expression of stories)もっと詳しく

旅行者This graph shows the change of vegetation. The four vertical bands indicate the Taupo volcanic eruption (~200 AD), the arrival of Maori (~1200), and the large scale arrival or Europeans (1840) to the present. The five graphs from top to bottom indicate the quanitity of Charcoal, Bracken (fern), Tall forest trees, Grasses and Introduced plants Some charcoal was released during the Taupo volcanic eruption, which cleared some area of tall tree forest to make room for fern and some native grasses. But within 200 years, the forest fully recovered and was stable for nearly a millenium. Grasses took up 5% of the land at this point. When Maori arrived in 1200, they cleared forest to promote growth of edible ferns. And later they burned large areas of forest for further clearance of land. In this time, forest cover was reduced to 55%. Europeans continued this trend until most lowland native forest was cleared, leaving about 25% in the mountains. Grass pollen and exotic plants quickly replaced the biodiversity, taking up 51% of the land area today.