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- Dag 1
- torsdag den 21. marts 2024 kl. 19.21
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Højde: 13 m
AustralienAlexandra Canal33°56’5” S 151°9’58” E
First Night From Home

Hello everyone - or rather, farewell for a little while. Tonight we are quietly ensconced in the Sydney Rydges Airport Hotel, thanks to Chris dropping us off at the door. What luxury. Thanks Chris, you are a legend!
Tomorrow we fly out to Vancouver, Canada. We have been to Vancouver before when, in 2000, we escaped (or "missed", depending on how you look at it) the Sydney Summer Olympics when Cathy Freeman made us all proud. Back then we stayed at an historic hotel on English Bay, called The Sylvia, before taking the Rocky Mountaineer across the Great Divide of the Canadian Rockies, flying then from Calgary to Toronto, and afterwards driving via Niagara into the US for what is quaintly called "leaf peaking" in Autumnal New England, US of A. It was a magic trip but we both agreed at the time that Canada needed more time. It's a BIG country. Fast forward 24 years or so and here we are! More to come but for now it's time to prepare for our flight and sleep the sleep of the very excited.
Some fun facts about Canada:
* Canada has the longest coastline in the world at approximately 243,042 km.
* Canada is the second largest country in the world after Russia.
* Canada has the second longest highway in the world, second to Australia's Highway 1. The Trans-Canada Highway, some of which we will drive on this holiday, is almost 8,000 klms long.
*Canada's border with the USA is the longest border in the world not patrolled by armed forces (although a Trump victory might just changed that!)
* Canada has 20% of the world’s freshwater reserves.
* Canada has a 99% literacy rate - I just love this fun fact!
I already love Canada!Læs mere
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- Dag 2
- fredag den 22. marts 2024 kl. 09.16
- ☁️ 9 °C
- Højde: 9 m
CanadaEnglish Bay Beach49°17’18” N 123°8’34” W
Arrival

The 14 hour flight from Sydney to Vancouver was a bit of a marathon. But we remained cheerful although by the time we arrived, the good humour had become a bit warn. We put the “grim” in “pilgrim” you might say by the end of it. Vancouver airport at 7am however cheered us up. We had made it!
Our Sikh taxi driver was very friendly and gave us some lively commentary for our drive to our hotel, the lovely old Sylvia, established in 1912, and very much a family hotel for Canadians in the know visiting Vancouver. It overlooks beautiful English Bay. It was a favourite hotel for Errol Flynn back in the day.
The women at the check in desk were so helpful! Although it was only 9am, and check in was usually at 2pm, they arranged to keep our bags for an hour while a room was being made ready for us. Sweet relief! So, much relieved that we wouldn’t be found comatose on some park bench by 2pm, we knew we only had to go for a short walk, have a coffee, and then we would be able to shower and rest fully horizontal for a while to recover from the rigours of economy class international air travel.
The spring weather this morning was overcast, quite pleasant to walk in, a balmy 12 degrees C. After a stroll along the bay (on which we spotted a seal, some geese, and a few friendly dogs taking their owners for a morning walk) we had a coffee at the Doro Cafe on Denman Street, then headed back to the welcoming charms of the Sylvia. We will eat in at the restaurant overlooking the bay tonight and tomorrow be more adventurous.
How many famous Canadians can you name? Here are some usual suspects to get you started: Joni Mitchell, Neil Young, Michael Buble, Celine Dion, Ryan Gosling, Jim Carey, Michael J. Fox, K. D. Lang, Diana Krall, William Shatner …Læs mere
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- Dag 2
- fredag den 22. marts 2024 kl. 22.17
- ☁️ 9 °C
- Højde: 7 m
CanadaEnglish Bay Beach49°17’16” N 123°8’33” W
English Bay By Night

After a splendid light dinner (fabulous soup plus entree size plates of crab cakes for me and fish tacos for him, followed by a shared mango cheesecake and coffee) we took a walk along the waterfront. Vancouverians (?) love lighting it seems and everywhere are little light shows for your delight (pun entirely intended). This reminds me of the Danes who light candles throughout Winter to brighten their days.Læs mere
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- Dag 3
- lørdag den 23. marts 2024 kl. 11.40
- ☁️ 9 °C
- Højde: 16 m
CanadaDr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden49°16’51” N 123°6’21” W
Downtown, Chinatown and Gastown

After an excellent night’s sleep and a fine breakfast we headed for the bus. Our plan for the day was to go downtown and tour two important city areas known as Chinatown and Gastown. Both areas are steeped in history.
Our highlight in Chinatown was the beautiful Dr Sun Yat-sen Garden. I was reminded of my old teacher, Henry Chan, who introduced me to Chinese philosophers Kang Youwei (1858–1927), and Liang Qichao (1873-1929) both important figures in the late Qing era that ended in the 1911 revolution, and the rise of Dr Sun Yat-sen as the first president of the Republic. He is an honoured man in Taiwan and in diaspora communities still.
To reach Gastown we ventured down Columbia Street. The deeper we went into this sad street, the more unfortunate drug addicts we saw, lying in doorways, hunched in laneways, and shooting up. We have since learned that there are at least four other streets like this. Bloody drug dealers. So much wasted human potential. Meanwhile, because it is legal here, there are trendy Cannabis shops everywhere and the smell of the weed is thick in some streets and folk openly smoke in the streets.
Turning toward Gastown it was like another world. Designer clothes, tourist shops, high end shoe stores, classy barbers and beauty shops. And bars and restaurants galore. Trendy capitalism’s underbelly just one street back, a world away.
But the famous Gastown steam clock did not disappoint and as if to sing away the contradictions we were suffering from, it sang the quarter hour most beautifully. We walked on to the waterfront and had lunch. By that time we were ready for rest. And headed home on the number 5 bus on West Pender Street. Dinner out at an Indian overlooking English Bay finished off a fascinating day.
Before you go, guess who comes from Vancouver? A strange and compelling group of people including:
William Pratt aka Boris Karloff
Sandra Oh
David Suzuki
Ryan Reynolds
Seth Rogen
William Gibson
Eckhart Toll
Margot Kidder and many more …Læs mere

RejsendeI remember the clock very well..Drugs were not the problem you describe when we visited but that was a long while ago.
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- Dag 4
- søndag den 24. marts 2024 kl. 12.28
- ☀️ 10 °C
- Højde: Havoverfladen
CanadaFerguson Point49°17’51” N 123°9’25” W
Sunday in the Park with Graham

Our Sunday started late. We had some coffee, fruit and yogurt for breakfast in our room, then set off for our visit to Stanley Park.
Stanley Park is a 405-hectare public park in British Columbia, Canada, surrounded by waters of Burrard Inlet and English Bay. There are many thousands of trees of all types, some very old, walking trails, beaches, picnic areas and places to have lunch. We had hot dogs and coffee (Americano of course) at the Third Beach concession. Fabulous.
Sadly 160,000 trees are being culled because of a deadly infestation. Some people are very unhappy about this. But the experts assure everyone that this is necessary. Speaking of experts we were so lucky to meet an experienced bird watcher on our walk, and she told us all about bald eagles which live in Stanley Park. We actually saw one, such an impressive bird. Did you know that 'bald' actually means white - it comes from the Middle English 'ballede', which means 'having a white spot.' Thus 'bald' eagles have white heads. How cool is that?Læs mere
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- Dag 5
- mandag den 25. marts 2024 kl. 14.29
- ☁️ 1 °C
- Højde: 1.334 m
CanadaAllison Pass49°7’7” N 120°53’19” W
On the road again …

Left the lovely Sylvia Hotel and picked up our car for the great adventure of driving across Canada. 🍁 We upgraded to a small four wheel drive on the good advice from our car rental agent. We are both happy with this decision.
Graham managed the exit from Vancouver with his usual aplomb for which I am very grateful! We were soon in the mountains, where we experienced the full gamut of weather, from rain, sleet and light snow to brilliant sunshine. We thought we were on our way to a place called Hope (now there’s a title for a play or novel) but ended up further down the track, stopping at a quiet little mining town called Princeton where every second business has “Copper” in its name: for example we are staying at the Copper Mountain suites and we ate a fab meal at the Copper Pit. Say no more.
According to Wikipedia, Princeton (originally Prince Town) was named for the Prince of Wales. It’s a former mining and railway hub that lies at the confluence of the Tulameen into the Similkameen River, just east of the Cascade Mountains. Today the mining of copper (what else) continues.
There was hardly a soul on the streets in Princeton but the people inside of places were just lovely: Donna at the visitors centre with her mantra “Princeton is the bronze sculpture capital of Canada”; Paige at our motel; the young women who served us dinner. All beautiful. Hello Canada!Læs mere
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- Dag 6
- tirsdag den 26. marts 2024 kl. 10.07
- ☁️ 1 °C
- Højde: 474 m
CanadaWinters Creek49°19’16” N 120°2’24” W
To Kelowna

The lake pictured here in this post is Okanagan Lake in the Okanagan Valley of the Interior Plateau of British Columbia between the Columbia and Cascade Mountains. It is a wondrous fjord lake. When we were travelling along its length, the surface was like glass reflecting the sky and mountains around it. The lake is approximately 110 km long and our destination Kelowna is midway along the lake. Kelowna is a charming little city filled with lots of public art. Interestingly one of my favourite Canadian actors, Taylor Kitsch, was born in Kelowna in 1981.Læs mere
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- Dag 9
- fredag den 29. marts 2024 kl. 12.08
- ☁️ 2 °C
- Højde: 788 m
CanadaGolden Airport51°17’60” N 116°58’6” W
Golden Moments

Our drive to Golden went smoothly and we were glad to be going there to stay 5 nights, a chance to chill out (probably literally) from the rigours of travel so far. We chose Golden as our staging point for our visit to the mountains because the town is surrounded by two different mountain ranges - the Columbia Mountains (made up of two sub-ranges, namely the Selkirk and Purcell ranges) and the Rocky Mountains. It is also at the junction of two heritage rivers – the Columbia River and the Kicking Horse Rivers - and near five National Parks: Yoho, Banff, Jasper, Glacier, and Kootenay. The town itself is nestled in the “Rocky Mountain Trench” which is built from the confluence of the two rivers. A perfect place to tour from. Add to this our apartment is just lovely, next to the Kicking Horse River and with a sunny easterly aspect and views of the mountains. We want for nothing. After a good night’s sleep and a heap of washing, we went for a long walk to the confluence of the rivers. The town is just emerging from the winter white world and there is still snow on the ground in places.Læs mere
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- Dag 10
- lørdag den 30. marts 2024 kl. 09.24
- ⛅ -4 °C
- Højde: 784 m
CanadaGolden Airport51°18’4” N 116°58’17” W
To Yoho National Park & Emerald Lake

Even though it snowed last night, we awoke late to bright sunshine. This augured well for our foray into Yoho National Park. The timing for our trip into the National Parks has not been excellent because the Parks Canada Visitor Centres are all “temporarily closed” until May. This means we cannot purchase the Discovery Pass we intended to get. You should have a pass (displayed on your dashboard) to visit any of the national parks but they are not available in person just now - and we don’t have a printer to get the online pass in hard copy. Oh well, speaking with a few Canadians, they said: just do it! So we did.
Our first stop was Natural Bridge. This is an impressive natural rock formation that spans the flow of the Kicking Horse River west of the small cute town of Field. Looking at the extraordinary weathering of the rocks reminds of the powerful shaping force of water. Canada on this side of the continent is simply filled with water in all its guises: ice, liquid, steam, snow, sleet, rain, rivers, falls and lakes. It is so richly endowed that for an Australian it seems extravagant!
After Natural Bridge we drove onto Emerald Lake. Well in summer it’s emerald but in winter and early spring it is snowy white. We went for a walk, and then Graham bravely walked out onto the lake itself while I remained on terra more firma thank you very much. By this time the sun was beginning to be swallowed up by clouds and we decided to beat the retreat to Golden and a light afternoon tea. Tonight we are treating ourselves to a dinner out. Come on Graham let’s go, all those mountains made me hungry!Læs mere

RejsendeWhat does the air feel like against your skin. Loving the photos. The quality of the light is so different. How long are you away for?

RejsendeLovely to hear from you. And good question! The air feels astringent and cool. Our eyes water behind our (necessary) sunglasses. The air is fresh and the light is almost too light. We are away for all of April and May.
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- Dag 12
- mandag den 1. april 2024 kl. 07.46
- ☀️ -2 °C
- Højde: 784 m
CanadaGolden Airport51°18’4” N 116°58’17” W
Last Day in Golden

On our last day we decided to do some shopping and more exploring in Golden. Graham’s boots had started to die and we wanted some freezer bricks for our cooler bag. Tomorrow we would be travelling again and we wanted to take our foodstuffs with us.
We also decided that we would go to the local museum. These latter in small towns the world over are testimony to the dedication of some rare individuals who value what the past can tell us about a place. We had a lovely chat with one of the archivists who thanked us for our donation.
A large part of the displays in the Golden Museum concerned the First Nations people whose territory ranged across what we now think of as “Canada” and the “USA”. These people moved seasonally around their country as did the Indigenous peoples of Australia. They had complex spiritual beliefs and beautiful arts and crafts.
I was fascinated to learn about another group of people called the Métis who are of mixed Indigenous and Euro-American ancestry. They are officially recognised in the Canadian Constitution. A Métis man, Baptiste Morigeau, who married two women (one after the other), one Indian and one Métis, and had 14 children, was an important early settler of Golden. Graham also found a little display on Edward “Bulldog” Kelly (1857-1889) - an outlaw - who reminded us of our Ned Kelly (1854-1880) Such coincidences are so intriguing.
The day was filled with beautiful sunshine. Graham found and bought his favourite boots and we found the freezer bricks we had searched for previously right under our noses at the Dollar Shop. We had a light meal of leftovers and retired happy ready for our adventure driving up the Icefield Parkway, from BC to Jasper in Alberta, one of the great scenic drives in the world. Wow.Læs mere
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- Dag 13
- tirsdag den 2. april 2024 kl. 11.06
- ⛅ 1 °C
- Højde: 1.835 m
CanadaNoseeum Creek51°37’9” N 116°19’1” W
The Icefields Parkway

The Icefields Parkway (Highway 93 North) runs north-south between Lake Louise, Alberta, and Jasper, Alberta for 232 km (144 miles). We were sorry - but not surprised- to see that most of the walks and scenic spots were “closed/fermé” because of snow. We stopped only a couple of times, once for a comfort stop that wasn’t very comfortable because of the snow and ice on the ground, and my shoes especially not coping with it. So most of the photos here were taken from the car by my iPhone. I will download Graham’s much better camera shots and include them at a later date.
I must say it was a great experience, one we wouldn’t have missed - even though we didn’t see bear. Perhaps tomorrow when we head back down the Parkway to our hotel at Lake Louise- not the Chateau - way too expensive for us. Meanwhile Jasper is a lovely town and our hotel, Jasper Chateau no less, is very comfortable. Hoping you are all well and enjoying the beautiful false summer that Autumn sometimes brings in Oz.Læs mere

RejsendeWe stayed at the Marmot Hotel in Jasper and Gil went off with the tour leader, Alma Bernasconi, a wildlife photographer, to get pics of lots of amazing animals. Look her up if you get a chance. Her site is www.hokusfokus.photography
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- Dag 14
- onsdag den 3. april 2024 kl. 10.38
- ☁️ -2 °C
- Højde: 1.152 m
CanadaMaligne Canyon52°55’7” N 118°0’11” W
Jasper-Maligne Canyon-Lake Louise

Question: How many Canada Parks officers does it take to issue a mandatory Discovery Pass to a couple of seniors?
Answer: Five!
Before driving out of Jasper, we finally found a place where we could purchase our Seniors Discovery Passes for the Canadian national parks. This was the Parks Canada Office located next to the Jasper Station (aka Gare de Jasper). We had a very lovely and comical interaction there with the staff, beginning with a really engaging woman who was temping at the front desk. She didn’t know how to issue the passes, so she called another staff member who had trouble with computer system. Then a third person was called who also had trouble, followed by a fourth. Finally the boss was called who was able to fix it. It was all very jolly and we were happy to get our passes. We also were told of a good little walk at Maligne (pronounced “Maleen”, not “Maline”) Canyon.
After a fabulous flat white coffee ( did you know Australians invented this form of coffee?) and half a white chocolate and cranberry “scone” (more like a rock cake) at the famous Bear’s Paw 🐾 Bakery, we hightailed it to Maligne Canyon. After our stunning walk there, we started our drive back down the Icefields Parkway to our digs in Lake Louise.
This trip had everything: blinding sunshine, snow showers, wind etc and the scenery again was spectacular. We were glad to arrive at check-in time at Lake Louise Inn which was simply bursting with activity. Although the Spring Break is supposed to be over, there are kids everywhere, often with grandparents or in excursion groups. I guess there is an explosion of activity once the winter has finally begun to recede. Everyone seems very jolly and on the whole so far we have found Canadians to be a happy, warm, obliging and friendly people. The sense of despair we felt momentary in one small area of Vancouver seems in the whole to be a slight (although serious) anomaly.
After a good night’s sleep, we awoke to our car covered in snow. It will be a slow start this morning for our trip to Drumheller. ❄️❄️❄️Læs mere
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- Dag 15
- torsdag den 4. april 2024 kl. 11.50
- 🌫 -2 °C
- Højde: 1.307 m
CanadaCanmore51°5’54” N 115°21’16” W
From the Sublime to the Badlands

A hard day on the road. Graham did amazingly well driving in a snow storm practically all the way to Drumheller. We had a quick lunch at Chestermere at the Tim Hortons - cheap and cheerful. I had a very good cream of broccoli soup.
The landscape changed dramatically as we left the mountains and the flatlands around Calgary took over. Then about a half an hour before Drumheller the land began to undulate, and almost magically we descended into a weird ugly valley. Somehow it was so ugly it was exceptional and perhaps even weirdly beautiful. Apparently the badlands were named by early French explorers who called the steep-sloped mesas (flat-topped mountains) and deep, winding gullies as “bad lands to cross.” Absolutely!
The reason we are here is to attend the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, because the wonderful thing about the Badlands of Alberta is that they harbour the richest deposits of dinosaur bones in the world. We may also visit the hoodoos if we have time. Then we will drive on towards Regina (pronounced Reg- eye-na like vag-eye-na, not Regeena as in Queen Victoria). It always makes me smile inwardly to say it and I want to create a limerick: “There was a young girl from Regina …” but I can’t think of a second line. Lol 😂Læs mere
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- Dag 16
- fredag den 5. april 2024 kl. 10.23
- ☁️ 0 °C
- Højde: 701 m
CanadaNacmine51°28’46” N 112°47’21” W
The Royal Tyrrell Museum

A truly brilliant museum full of wonderful and amazing animals. It was also heartwarming to see the scientific method and evolutionary theory so cherished and so clearly enunciated in the opening displays. I became a little obsessed with the explanations of extinction events. Did you know the earth has suffered five such events?
1. End of the Ordovician (444 million years ago [mya]) 86% of species went extinct in this one!
2. In the Late Devonian (360 mya)
3. At the End of the Permian (250 mya)
4. At the End of the Triassic (200 mya)
5. The End of the Cretaceous (65 mya) – this was the “event” that killed off the dinosaurs🦖🦕
I also became fascinated by the ammonites. They went extinct with the dinosaurs in the 5th extinction event. Their remains are used for jewellery called ammolites.
A great day ended in a drive to Medicine Hat for the night. Next stop Regina!Læs mere

RejsendeRecently discovered in the Millennial period in the coastal town of Newcastle NSW, The Grahamasurus. Diet consists mainly of seafood and the occasional red wine.
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- Dag 18
- søndag den 7. april 2024 kl. 11.51
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Højde: 579 m
CanadaSpruce Island50°25’31” N 104°37’1” W
Surprising Regina 1

For our first full day (a Sunday) in Regina we decided to go the MacKenzie Art Gallery which opened at 11am. The day dawned sunny, our first sunny day for a while. A good omen if you believe that sort of thing (and we all mostly half do). We had to drive to the gallery because it was just beyond walking distance - but Regina is very rationally constructed in a grid and basically we came out of our hotel carpark, and drove straight down Albert Street.
The Gallery itself occupies part of a very grand modernist building that has emblazoned on it “As long as the sun shines, the river flows and the grass grows”. This is actually a sculpture by internationally renowned Canadian artist Duane Linklater. The quote is unattributed but the historic 11 Numbered Treaties signed between 1871 and 1921 were regarded by Indigenous peoples as lasting as long as the sun shines etc. So this quote on the gallery is quite political, aiming to prompt conversation on the issue of justice for First Nations.
The art on display ranged widely but was very arresting. The Multiple Lives of Paintings 1500-1800 looked at (sometimes newly established) copies of master painters by lesser painters. The other exhibition, including sculpture, paintings, marionettes etc, was by a new artist, Shary Boyle, and her concern was about our multiple identities and performances.
After the gallery we walked in the fabulous park called the Wascana Centre. This huge park contains the quite magnificent Saskatchewan Legislative Building. The flags fluttered on the also impressive Albert Bridge devoted to Victoria’s beloved Albert. Canadian loyalist sentiment runs strongly in Saskatchewan!
We finished the day with an amazing meal at Arrigato 2, a Korean restaurant. Yum!!Læs mere
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- Dag 19
- mandag den 8. april 2024 kl. 13.12
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Højde: 590 m
CanadaSpruce Island50°26’24” N 104°36’60” W
Surprising Regina 2

We headed to the Royal Saskatchewan Museum after a morning doing necessary washing duty in the hotel laundry. Thoroughly enjoyed the exhibits and we made sure we did the Indigenous history galleries first. Of special note were the diorama and static displays of arts, crafts and other material as well as excellent animal models in different types of landscapes. Lunch at Subway and a late light dinner in the hotel.
In all Regina has been very surprising: larger and more sophisticated and historically minded than we expected. But it lacks our cafe culture and finding a good cup of coffee has eluded our best efforts. We have met and talked with a few people and one couple staying in the hotel wanted us to come to their farm and show us around their area near Virden. We gratefully declined because we really wanted to get to Lake Superior as soon as we could. Our goal beyond that is an area called the Maritimes before we have to turn back to Quebec and Montreal. Still this gives you an idea of how warm the people are here.
Actor Leslie “Don’t call me Shirley” Neilson was born in Regina in 1926. He said: “There's no way you can be a Canadian and think you can lose it ... Canadians are a goodly group. They are very aware of caring and helping."Læs mere
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- Dag 20
- tirsdag den 9. april 2024 kl. 10.20
- ⛅ 9 °C
- Højde: 645 m
CanadaQu'Appelle50°31’38” N 103°50’14” W
3 Days on the Road: Manitoba & Ontario

Saskatchewan-Manitoba-Ontario
We are heading for a 6 night stay at Thunder Bay on the mighty Lake Superior starting tomorrow, 11 April. To get there we needed to make two long hops from Regina - one to just outside of Winnipeg and another at Dryden where we are tonight.
As we moved from the vast plains of Saskatchewan, then through the similar terrain of Manitoba into Ontario, we increasingly saw small lakes beside the road, holiday encampments, places for canoeing and swimming and riding and playing in the summer holidays. The skies have become higher, and there are actual rocks now, appearing after the prairies. The long stretches of field on either side of the road, have given away to a more featured landscape, and we’ve also passed through the even black pine forests that require fire to burn them. They all burn together and then grow back together which is why they are mostly the same height. Interesting! I always thought that Australian forests were unique in being pyrogenic … so much for my arboreal knowledge! We’ll be glad to be stopping tomorrow for a little while.Læs mere
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- Dag 22–25
- 11. april 2024 - 14. april 2024
- 3 nætter
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Højde: 212 m
CanadaBoulevard Lake48°27’41” N 89°12’8” W
Shuniah and Thunder Bay 1

On arrival at Thunder Bay we shopped for the first time at a Walmart Super Centre for our provisions. This shop was somewhat of a culture shock and we wandered around like lost pilgrims. Aisle after aisle of strange (to us anyway) food stuffs. Not knowing quite what we had bought or if it was the right quantity, we finally found our way to Shuniah. The photos for this post - by Graham this time - give a little impression of our first few days at Shuniah. Our little abode, called the Cove, is centrally heated, almost brand new, and fully equipped. We love it. We have had a chance to do our washing (so we are happy to go out again now); had a chance to catch up on sleep and rest - not the same thing but close; cook and eat a spaghetti bolognaise from scratch; and just generally be in our own space. We are surrounded by nature here at the very end of Mackenzie Beach Avenue - water at the front and bush at the side. Of course the weather is against taking full advantage of the options available here in Summer - I ain't going swimming while there's ice floating in the water! Likewise I will not canoe or sailboard. But at least we can walk.
Yesterday we took a walk to the abandoned railway walking track as far as the old rail bridge over the Mackenzie River where it enters Lake Superior. Then today we went into Thunder Bay for the first time after visiting the Terry Fox Monument and Lookout. Terry Fox's is a remarkable story of human courage and generosity. In 1977 Terry Fox had lost his leg to cancer at 18. Galvanised by seeing the suffering of other cancer patients, he decided to walk across Canada to raise money and awareness for cancer research. We were told by the woman at the Tourist Office there that his 'Marathon of Hope' actually ended at Shuniah after 143 days of walking. Thunder Bay took this man to their hearts and they dedicated this lovely park to him and his quest. She also told us the base of the Memorial is made from amethyst, and you can see the beautiful purple crystals in it. Much moved, we also found the view out over Lake Superior and the Sleeping Giant quite stunning. But even more stunning we were approached there by a young woman who overheard in the Tourist Office that we were from Australia. She asked questions about our trip and had some advice about Ottawa which was great, but almost as an afterthought she invited us to stay in her B&B for free in Toronto if we thinking about visiting that city. Sadly we are not going via Toronto, but thanked her for her generosity, and in parting she wryly observed that there really wasn't much to see there anyway. Tomorrow we are planning to walk all the way to Mackenzie Point, weather permitting.Læs mere

RejsendeYou certainly found a great spot to spend a few nights - with good neighbours both front & back. We do remember Terry Fox's epic journey, good to see that it was celebrated by the community.
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- Dag 25
- søndag den 14. april 2024 kl. 12.35
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Højde: 239 m
CanadaKakabeka Falls48°24’10” N 89°37’30” W
Shuniah and Thunder Bay 2

Tomorrow is our last day in peaceful Shuniah. The word Shuniah comes from a local Indigenous Ojibwa word "zhooniyaa" for "silver", supposedly associated with the mining of silver in the 19thC. But I think the place was called Shuniah because of the silver lights on Lake Superior here in the morning and afternoon - as Donovan wrote, here, there are “diamonds in the sea”. Tomorrow we will concentrate on washing clothes, packing and generally preparing to leave early on the 17th. We will be on the road for the following four days ( three motel nights) before we arrive in Ottawa where we have an Airbnb for four nights. Anyway that’s the logistics of travelling such vast distances by road. So far so good.
The photos in this post cover yesterday and today. Yesterday we walked to Mackenzie Point. And today we drove to Kakabeka Falls, “the Niagara of the North”. They are very impressive but nothing like Niagara! After that we went into Thunder Bay. The place was very quiet but nice to wander around the new Marine Park area and take a clear shot of the Sleeping Giant. After a little food shopping we returned home.
Two observations by me here about Thunder Bay, which might be better called Shop Paddock. This is the most spread out city I have ever seen - you simply couldn’t live here without a car as there is very little public transport. Acres and acres of quite ugly huge shops, businesses and banks. The place does not seem to have a centre. There are many parks but they are connected by ugly passages of capitalist wasteland. Too harsh perhaps but it’s such a contrast to Shuniah! The other observation is perhaps related to not having a centre, this is that there are very few cafes. And the expresso coffee we have managed to locate is weak and without flavour. Nevertheless we have been very grateful for the lovely rest here. It’s been simply grand!Læs mere

RejsendeWhile an icy dip is meant to be quite invigorating, I can understand your reluctance to dip in.

RejsendeStunning scenes. I love the Sleeping Giant. Does he have an indigeouness and/or Indian name?

RejsendeOh good question! There may be others but according to the Seven Wonders of Canada website: “One Ojibway legend identifies the giant as Nanabijou, who was turned to stone when the secret location of a rich silver mine now known as Silver Islet was disclosed to white men.”
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- Dag 28–31
- 17. april 2024 kl. 15.08 - 20. april 2024
- 3 nætter
- 🌧 6 °C
- Højde: 218 m
CanadaThe Lagoon49°1’8” N 88°15’33” W
Three More Days on the Road

Well tonight we are in Canada’s capital, Ottawa. Our new pad for the next four nights is charming and I read online that it has a “walkability” score of 97%. We proved this after we arrived an hour early for our checkin and had to go for a walk as we waited. Before we knew it we were at the amazing parliamentary section of this lovely and sensibly laid out city. Our journey here has been smooth but not without its challenges. I keep hearing that song by LRB (the first one with Glenn Shorrock out front) : “I remember those days on the road, trying to get somewhere …”
https://youtu.be/600TQCG7OJY?si=ki4k5BgMp_UrIttZ
1. WoeWoe in Wawa
The small lakeside town of Wawa, which has large replicas of geese everywhere (go figure), yielded up the worst motel we have had on this trip, ironically called The Alpha Inn. First we had trouble locating it because the new owners had invested in a you-beaut sign that had an elaborate slide show, only one slide of which had the actual name. Every time we passed by, the name was not showing. We thought we were going mad or had been scammed. Seeking advice we were told about the new sign which had confounded a few before. They would have been better advised to spend the money on new clean towels and maybe hanging space for their rooms. Ah well, live and learn: we didn’t so much as check out the next morning as run away! Without breakfast we headed out into the fog and the vast stretches of the Park National transversed by the Trans Canada Highway. After a couple of hours we finally came upon the Voyageurs’ Lodge, and had good coffee and one of their famous (and huge) apple fritters. Relief! Strengthened we reached our next destination, Blind River, in the early afternoon.
2. The Old Mill Motel at the End of the Universe
This motel was also run by a Canadian of Indian extraction and once again the office was decorated with subcontinental icons and fragrances of incense. We were heartened to be given the end room which had a marvellous picture window facing the entry of the Blind River into Lake Huron, one of the Great Lakes. The room was spacious, with a great king bed and just about everything we needed. BUT this motel is next to a sewage treatment plant that made a loud hum all night - not white noise, but blight noise. We didn’t get much sleep and were glad to be on our way, this time to decent motel at North Bay.
3. Graham’s Birthday at Best Western, North Bay
Once again we drove through fog on what is billed as one of the most scenic drives in Ontario. We didn’t see anything scenic but the fog had a beauty (and a terror at times) of its own. We were happy, knowing we were having our own unique trip across Canada. And that we would be staying at a reliably excellent hotel at the resort town of North Bay, with a restaurant and bar, pool and so on. Ah the joy of crisp fresh sheets and the quiet of deep carpets! It was Graham’s 73rd birthday and we had a celebratory dinner, a lovely walk, a video chat with Chris & Stu, a birthday message from Hanna and Shane, and a fine night’s sleep. Then OTTAWA! More on this to come …
So far the trip by road has not only revealed the truly open hearted nature of the people, but also the beauty and flow of the landscape - the shape of the place at least along the Trans Canada Highway. From sea level at English Bay in Vancouver, over and into the amazing Rockies, through Alberta’s incredible badlands, down onto the plains of Saskatchewan and Manitoba, onwards around the northern shores of the Great Lakes, and the incredible lakelands all around them, this is a bountiful place with a hard wintery climate.
But the skies cleared to allow a welcome sun to filter through this afternoon and there are daffodils, tulips, violets and hyacinths blooming shyly in the gardens in our boho area of Ottawa. Spring is definitely building …Læs mere
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- Dag 31
- lørdag den 20. april 2024 kl. 15.35
- ☁️ 8 °C
- Højde: 76 m
CanadaParliament Hill45°25’19” N 75°42’16” W
Ottawa - a walk downtown

We went for a walk downtown to the Rideau Centre on our first full day, a very cool Sunday. We had some shopping to do and wanted to have a good look at the place. It's all very impressive I must say and makes Canberra look rather pale and small by comparison. No wonder Canada was Elizabeth II's favourite Commonwealth country.
Another Queen, Victoria, selected Ottawa as the capital of the Province of Canada in 1858. Soon after, work began on Parliament Hill via a design competition. Gothic Revival style was chosen for the parliamentary buildings because it was thought to reflect the development of the Westminster style of government as opposed to the neoclassical style chosen by the USA in Washington (and elsewhere!) to reflect its Republic. These Canadian buildings speak to a European sensibility that is more than British I think, encompassing the French as well as the English colonial and postcolonial reality of the country. With their copper turrets and lofty spires, the buildings are quite fairytale in effect.
The city itself is very walkable, laid out on a grid both sides of the Ottawa River and Rideau Canal. Sydneysiders readily recognise some people in the familiar street names: Sussex, Kent, George, York, Cumberland, William … there’s even a suburb called The Glebe. Our house is in Centre Town. This suburb consists mainly two storey free standing dwellings from 1890s onwards. It reminds us of inner west Sydney and is being gentrified in the same way. Real estate is only marginally cheaper than in Newcastle.Læs mere
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- Dag 34
- tirsdag den 23. april 2024 kl. 10.44
- ☀️ 14 °C
- Højde: 67 m
CanadaMajor's Hill Park45°25’46” N 75°41’50” W
National Gallery of Canada

After a lovely day of rest where we explored the neighbourhood a bit and shopped locally for special foods to cook and eat, we went next day to the extraordinary National Gallery of Canada. We caught the 14 bus from around the corner into the city and walked the rest of the way to the Gallery along the rather grand Sussex Street. The first thing we came upon in the Gallery precinct was what looked like a war memorial but was in fact a tribute to Canada’s peacekeeping efforts called “Reconciliation”. Then in the background of this monument we spied the Gallery for the first time. Wow! The pictures in this post only give an idea of the monumental architecture of this modern cathedral to art. And as if to say, you cannot escape Louise Bourgeois (we had paid for but missed her show in Sydney before we came here because we simply ran out of time) there was her giant Mamman Spider out the front! Apparently there are nine replicas of these creatures throughout the world- just to remind us that we all have unconscious minds at work!- as if we could forget. Peace Freud!
Because these great galleries have far too much to see in one visit we concentrated on Level 1 Indigenous and Canadian art. We spent all day at it and managed to cover the lot - although our attention was a little bit ragged by the end. We took quite a few snaps a sample of which are attached. The day ended with a crowded 14 bus home, a light dinner, thoughts of hitting the road on the morrow, and some packing. We figure we can make Sydney on the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia in five hops. There we plan a longer stay of a full week. Meanwhile the road is our home …Læs mere

RejsendeOh God not that spider! Just because we can, doesn’t mean we should. Or is that censorship?! I hope you are a long way from the debacle of a debate happening back here.
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- Dag 36–37
- 25. april 2024 kl. 09.25 - 26. april 2024
- 1 nat
- ☀️ 0 °C
- Højde: 10 m
CanadaTrois-Saumons Bird Sanctuary47°8’42” N 70°20’33” W
A little bit of French s’il vous plait

Very quickly it seemed we moved from Ontario with its English speaking population and bilingual signage, into French speaking Quebec where the signs are only in French. This feels like a different country; the language seems to represent far more than words, but a style of living that is inherently different. For a start I noticed a greater pride in surroundings. The houses were neater, there was negligible litter and almost no graffiti. Manners were practised more diligently. The coffee was still bad though!
We spent the first night at a very nice motel at Montmagny. It was snowing again and everything looked clean and shapely under the snow’s effect. The next morning we drove along the great and historic St Lawrence Seaway. And the houses were simply stunning: so neat, so stylish…
After a long day on the road we ended up in a place called Campbellton where we stayed in an excellent hotel with a fabulous view of the J. C. Horne bridge. We took a walk along the esplanade after breakfast the next day and then headed off to explore more francophone wonders by driving highway 11 around the Arcadian Peninsula. According to the all-knowing Wikipedia: “Most settlement in the peninsula occurred as a result of the Expulsion of the Acadians during the Gulf of St. Lawrence Campaign (1758), where British personnel forcibly removed them from their homes, mostly in southern New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.”
Almost all of the houses on this peninsula are waterfront or have magnificent water views. There are no fences. There is no garbage in evidence, no graffiti, and the houses are each different, with a certain style nevertheless emerging. I wanted to photograph them all and create a book called “The Houses of the Arcadian Peninsula” - original huh? Anyway I have included a couple here just to give a sense of them, a following post with 10 more. White churches also abound in this predominantly Roman Catholic area. At a cafe called the Creek, we had a perfect lunch of soup (chowder for him; beef and barley for me) with fresh white rolls, and a side of excellent frites. Poor coffee the only detractor - you can’t have everything it seems. The French in France would be appalled!
Tonight we are in Moncton. We didn’t mean to drive this far, it just seemed to happen naturally. And we saw our first moose 🫎 on the side of the road. Yay!!! Time for sleep. Be well everyone.Læs mere
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- Dag 37
- fredag den 26. april 2024 kl. 13.25
- ☀️ 4 °C
- Højde: 8 m
CanadaBas-Caraquet47°48’12” N 64°48’37” W
Houses of the Arcadian Peninsula

These images were taken from a moving vehicle 🚗- apologies for their quality- or lack thereof. But they are so cute, n’est-ce-pas? A larger house, say at 662 St Pierre Ouest, Caraquet will set you back $349,000 CA. Real estate here is far more reasonable than at home depending on where you want to buy. And of course you would need to brush up on your French!Læs mere

RejsendeYes and it has the Atlantic Ocean at its back. I actually started taking pictures too late because we had passed by some fabulous ones before I got my phone out and started snapping out the window of the car. They were all so neat and stylish- quite Virgoan if you don’t mind me saying!
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- Dag 39
- søndag den 28. april 2024 kl. 10.43
- ⛅ 7 °C
- Højde: 5 m
CanadaRights River45°37’54” N 61°57’37” W
Interlude at Antigonish

Antigonish is a small but important town in Antigonish County, Nova Scotia. As we drove in passing the inevitable field of shopping barns, we quickly came across the splendid campus of the St. Francis Xavier University. Apparently this town hosts the oldest continuous Highland games outside Scotland! It also has a lovely old fashioned Main Street, complete with tea shop and book store.
We stayed at a little family run motel on the edge of town for two nights. We walked the very special Landing Wildlife Walk and enjoyed being in beautiful Nova Scotia. We bought a copy of Anne of Green Gables in preparation for our trip to Prince Edward Island.Læs mere
RejsendeInteresting fun facts, thank you. Wishing you both happy and safe travels from Toni and myself. xo
RejsendeThank you dear hearts. ♥️
RejsendeInteresting information about Canada-so you won’t meet many Canadians who can’t read or write. Enjoy you trip asWe know you will.