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Camino Portugués
  • Lisa Kaletta
  • Lisa Kaletta

Camino Portugués

A 28-day adventure by Lisa Read more
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  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    2

    Coimbra

    May 8, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Again knowing that I have a big distance ahead of me today, I got up early and left the albergue.

    After approximately 1km, I realized I had forgotten my sleeping bag on the terrace 🙄 Annoyed by myself, I went back to the albergue again and picked it up. 'Another 2km extra today 😫', I thought and had a hard time to motivate myself until having my first coffee.

    I had a long breakfast break and continued a bit more motivated afterwards.
    With some good music in my ears, I killed kilometer by kilometer.
    After my lunch break (without actually having lunch since I am fed up with meat & fries), I walked the remaining distance and finally arrived in my apartment - after almost 50km!

    The apartment has a balcony with an amazing view over Coimbra! Therefore, I decided to eat on the balcony & have some beers instead of going out for dinner. 🍻    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    1

    Coimbra - city, museum & university

    May 9, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After my long hike yesterday, I decided to take it easy by sleeping long and booking me a ticket to visit Coimbra's university.
    It is known to be one of the most beautiful ones all over the world, especially the library with its "Noble Floor".

    You were not allowed to take pictures in the library but definitely, climbing the insanely steep city stairs was worth it!
    The Noble Floor consists of 3 big halls, each one equipped with book shelves up to the ceilig.
    The shelves have golden ornaments and the walls were decorated with red velvet curtains.
    The atmosphere was magic and it was very interesting to hear for instance how the books and the wood of the shelves are preserved and protected from little insects.

    In general, the whole university area is beautiful and it is amazing to see the students walking over the campus in their Harry-Potter like black capes which is the traditional uniform here.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta

    Condeixa-a-Velha

    May 9, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Thinking that today's leg is rather short, I really took my time and only started walking around 2pm.
    Today, I finally felt the 'Camino-magic' again! My hike lead me through beautiful small villages, along apricot and mandarin trees. I could marvel at cottages with gardens laid out with love!
    When reaching the city of Condeixa-a-Velha, I passed the Ruínas de Conímbriga and started my final section of today.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    2

    Rabaçal

    May 9, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    It was already past 7 when I started my last section which was surprisingly still 12km!
    However, I was not too worried: My accommodation was already reserved and I had done a small beer tasting on the way which gave me an extra good mood (though I did not really like any of the portuguese beers so far 🤢).

    Additionally...look at the pictures! This is what I came here for! Solitary ways, breath-taking views and this wonderful sound of silence after those long sections along busy streets. I didn't see a single soul on the last 12km to my hostel and truely enjoyed the twittering of the birds, all the colorful flowers whose names I don't know and watching the sunset.

    It was so peaceful, I was close to spread my sleeping bag on the grass and sleep on one of the meadows.
    Somehow the albergue still admitted me at 9:30pm so I did not do it 😂

    But honestly: If I knew that my sleeping spot would be in a refugee-camp like something (they called it "pavillon" on the phone which is way too romantic for a mattress on the cold floor), I could as well have slept outside 😂    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    12

    Alvaiázere

    May 10, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I left my refugee camp quite late and hiked in a steady drizzle which eventually turned into rain and a thunderstorm 😫 (Not very funny if you are afraid of thunderstorms).

    However, after my lunch break, sun came out again so the last section to my final destination of today was way easier. Again, I walked a lot through forests, seeing now more and more olive trees and loads of beautiful flowers 🥰

    Finally, I reached my albergue which I only chose in order to receive the special stamp. The hospitalero Carlos really made a show out of it, drinking a port wine shot (🤢) with me and then picking 3 wax colors for my individual stamp: Pink for the long-sleeve shirt I was wearing, yellow for my blonde hair and green/blue for the color of my eyes. It was half fascinating and half scary to watch him, trickling the burning wax on my pilgrims passport. But finally, I had an incredibly beautiful stamp in rainbow colors. 🥰

    Later, 3 German girls joined me and we prepared an amazing salad with apinach, chick peas, bellpepper, tomato, cucumber, tuna and couscous. You wouldn't believe how this felt like a banquet! (Fresh) Vegetables are a rare treat on the Camino!    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    4

    Calvinos

    May 11, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Finally I could really take it easy today!
    I enjoyed a long breakfast in the albergue which I prepared by myself and only started hiking around 10.
    With a short break inbetween, I reached my albergue in the early afternoon.
    This gave me some time to do groceries (luckily the mini market was open) and to later cook me a nice dinner (Finally PASTA!! 🩷). Also, I had some really nice room mates that I spent the evening with. 😉    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta

    Tomar

    May 12, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today felt like a "cheat day" since I only walked to the next bigger city which is only 10km away from my albergue.
    My plan is to see a bit of the city and continue my hike tomorrow 😉

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    21

    Tomar - Panorama Swing & Castle

    May 12, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The most popular spot in Tomar is the castle. Therefore, this is where I headed first after leaving my backpack in my accommodation.

    On my way there, I got attracted by something else: a botanical garden. So, instead of following the path to the castle, I took a small detour and found a very special place: A swing with a panorama view on the castle! This was almost better than the actual highlight of the city 🤣

    I spent quite some time there, chillig on the swing and headed to the castle afterwards. A truely beautiful spot with a lovely garden and a panorama path with loads of beautiful viewpoints.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    22

    The spontaneous impulses...

    May 13, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    ...are sometimes the best!
    After getting inspired by another pilgrim, I decided yesterday evening to vary my route by walking from Tomar to Fátima and then south to Santarém and Lisbon.
    Firstly, this route is much greener and more solitary and secondly, I will be right on time for the festivities in Fátima today.

    Already on my first kilometers this morning I was glad having taken that decision, seeing that the section between Tomar and Santarém would have been full of industrial areas and concrete walking paths.
    In exchange I got some challeging off-road paths leading me through the green mountains of Portugal with beautiful flowers in rose, violet and yellow growing along the way. Some sections I almost needed to climb because they were so rocky and steep but honestly...I LOVED IT 🥰 This is so much better than walking the standard path and crossing a different city every 2 kilometers!

    I reached Fátima around lunch time and treated myself to a fantastic lunch with sea bass and portuguese white wine (quite a good one finally!)    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    1

    Santuário de Fátima

    May 13, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Having arrived to Fátima, I went to visit the famous Santuário de Fátima.
    The sanctuary is an impressive place that has been visited by 6.2 million pilgrims in 2024.
    I went inside the chapel and heard part of the mass. Since it was in portuguese, I did not understand much and discovered a bit of the outside area where they held another mass in spanish. 🙂

    I returned to the sanctuary once more in the darkness. I heard that at 9.30pm, there will be a light procession.
    It means that pilgrims gather with candles in front of the Rosary where a prayer service is held.
    Pilgrims from all over the world were officially welcomed so you could hear which countries the ones arrived today were from.
    Afterwards, prayers were read in all the languages of the arrived pilgrims (even in korean for instance).
    Inbetween, a song was sung and everybody raised their candles- what a scenery! There was even a couple getting married in front of my eyes, in the sea of lights!
    Even though I am 100% atheist, this was truely beautiful to watch. I am glad, I changed my mind last minute and came here! 🩷    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta

    Minde

    May 14, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Again, using some helpful information from pilgrims I meet on my way, I knew exactly where I need to head today.
    There are only a few albergues on the way from Fatima to Santarém so I needed to plan accurately.

    I did my first stop in Minde where I had my breakfast, knowing that I already completed more than half of today's leg.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta

    Monsanto

    May 14, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The path - and most of the time it was not more than that - to my final destination for today was just...WOW!

    It was that kind of trail that makes you stop every 10 meters to take a photo 🫶

    For the start, a steep and rocky climb up a hill, afterwards a breath-taking view on Minde and in the end the descend to Monsanto.
    To my right and left - olive groves, wild growing flowers in all colors you can imagine, mountains shining in the distance in different shades of green and here and there those lovely little stone walls which serve as sort of a frame for those beautiful sceneries!    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta

    Feeling like Rapunzel today...

    May 14, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    ...sleeping completely alone in this tower. 😅
    What a bad luck, I recently cut my hair 🤣

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    1

    Santarém

    May 15, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today I reached the last bigger city before Lisbon which also means that I have only 90km (3 days) left to hike.

    My night in the tower was pretty short. First it was too cold, then too hot and in general, the beds in the albergues are always slightly too short for me 😅

    Well, at least all this made me start early and again I got to see some really beautiful landscapes and flowers today 🥰
    Though it was only 21°C, it felt incredibly hot so I did more breaks than usual. However, with my hostel already reserved, I was not in a rush. 😎    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    2

    Azambuja

    May 16, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    What a tough day!
    Seeing that my first 20km will lead me through no man's land without any cafés, bars or restaurants (and without shadow 😭), I had a solid breakfast in Santarém, equipped me with 2 apples and hit the road.
    I had to listen to motivational music all the time to endure this. I walked along fields all day - which is normally beautiful - but not with 27°C and the sun toasting you permanently!

    The first bright spot came after 2 hours of hiking in form of a swing. Since it was however totally exposed to the sun, I did not stay long.
    Afterwards, I made 2 breaks in bars which basically meant that I took all chances I had on today's leg and the remaining time I kept walking, always a bottle of water in my hand, determined to reach my albergue.

    When I finally arrived to my sleeping spot, I saw that all beds were occupied. Luckily, the hospitalero assured me that he has more beds in a different building. I was really not in the mood to walk one more meter.

    To be fair, my "bed" turns out to be a mattress again 🤣 However, I have sort of a private room since I agreed to sleep in the storage room (perfect- no snorers!!)

    Tomorrow, they forecasted 29(!!)°C...but only 2 more days to go. 💪    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta

    Alverca do Ribatejo

    May 17, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Did I say yesterday was tough? Then today was probably my toughest day on the whole Camino! 29°C and 34km mostly in the sun (somehow Google Maps is always lying about the distances 😅). I was really cherishing every tiny bit of shadow!

    I stopped here and there to drink a refreshing beer and to simply enjoy not being exposed to the sun.

    In the end, I arrived totally exhausted in my hostel (which was of course again on what felt like the highest point of the city 🤣). After all, it turned ou that I again had a 10-bed room completely for my own. 😁    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta

    Dinner for free

    May 17, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    My exhaustion probably also came from the fact that I did not have a proper meal the whole day...partially because the options were limited and partially because what was available was not very appealing 🍟🥩🍗

    Therefore, I gathered my last bit of energy and went to eat one of my favorite dishes 🍕 (Sorry, Portugal - there is nothing like pizza & pasta in this world for me 🤣).
    The owner of the place I went to started a conversation with me and it turned out that he had lived for 2 yers in Leipzig. Moreover, he had worked in the greek restautant "Mytropolis" in Gohlis and in "Zur Sonne" in Merseburg. When I told him, I have been eating in both of them already, we talked for quite a while about different stuff.

    When I wanted to pay in the end, he said: "No, it is free for you, a pleasure to meet you!"
    That was such a lovely gift after what felt like a march through the desert today. 🩷    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    1

    My final steps

    May 18, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    It did not feel real (and still doesn't 100%) that today was my last hiking day on the Camino.

    With the steady heat of the last days and my surroundings becoming less appealing and more urban/industrial, I was sort of glad to finally arrive to Lisbon.

    A big part of today's leg lead me along the river Tejo, partially even on wooden footbridges.
    On my last kilometers, I finally entered Lisbon and got a first taste of what I can expect in the upcoming 3 days that I will spend here.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta

    Camino Portugués

    May 18, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today I am looking back on my journey from Santiago de Compostela to Lisbon on the Camino Portugués.

    This trail was definitely different from the Camino del Norte.
    The section from Santiago to Porto was very touristic and busier but also very beautiful.
    The section from Porto to Lisbon was less popular among pilgrims (except for the Camino leading to Fátima) which meant that there were only a few (cheap!) accommodations and the amount of beds was limited. However, the fact that it is still less known, sometimes also made it very special and interesting!

    Summarizing, I had another fantastic 25 days on the Camino Portugués.
    Here are my highlights.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    22

    Viewpoints & Tram 28E

    May 19, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I started my first day in Lisbon earlier than expected.
    Since my nice hostel room mates recklessly stepped in and out, switched on lights and watched TikTok videos without using earphones in the middle of the night, sleeping was almost impossible. (I am not even mentioning the snorers because this is sort of a standard).

    My early start had one advantage: Lisbon seems to be asleep until more or less 9am so I was almost alone on my 2 viewpoints (Miradouro das Portas do Sol & Miradouro de Santa Luzia).

    Afterwards, I went to the station Martim Moniz to enter the popular tram 28E. There was already a small queue when I arrived but since there was another tram coming every few minutes, I didn't have to wait that long.
    At the end, I got a fancy city tour including passing really narrow and steep streets and including the typical sounds of an old tram for only 3,20€.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    11

    City walk

    May 19, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After having had a really good breakfast, I proceeded more to the west.
    On my way, I crossed the Ascensor da Bica, one of the steepest streets of the city where cable-car like vehicles transport people up and down the hill.
    Afterwards, I went to another viewpoint; the Santa Caterina street view.
    From there, I went to the Jardim da Estrela/Basílica da Estrela.
    And finally, I made my way to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique, a market hall with different types of food, to enjoy my lunch.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    1

    Pink Street, Elevator & Cathedral

    May 19, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I continued my sightseeing by walking through the Pink Street and then to the Elevador de Santa Justa.
    I did not actually go up with the elevator since the queue was way too long and anyways I did not fancy to pay for being a few seconds in an elevator.
    Therefore, I walked up to the platform, enjoyed another view on Lisbon and treated me to a fancy Gin Tonic in one of the rooftop bars.
    Finally, I walked to the Cathedral Sé and had my dinner nearby.    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    1

    Pena Palace in Sintra

    May 20, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After doing some research on how to get to the Pena Palace, I found out that the best option is to book a guided tour since the palace is at quite some distance from the city of Sintra.
    Although I am not a big fan of those guided tours in big groups, I followed the recommendations. Thank God I did it...seeing the winding road we went up with the van, I was so glad I did not walk!

    Seeing the Pena Palace and the garden was definitely one of my highlights here in Lisbon!
    Tiago, our guide, explained us the (quite romantic!) history of the estate and gave us some really interesting background information.
    For instance, 90% of the plants in the garden is not native in Portugal. And so, we got to see exotic plants like japanese bamboo and american redwoods.
    It was amazing to simply enjoy the beauty of the garden and later the beauty of the palace itself!    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    2

    Cabo da Roca & Cascais

    May 20, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    After visiting the Pena Palace and the city of Sintra, we went to the westernmost point of Europe - Cabo da Roca. A truely beautiful spot that would be perfect for a hike 🥰
    In the end, we went to Cascais, a fancy city where Cristiano Ronaldo, Christina Aguilera, George Clooney and Madonna have a villa (at least the guide told us so 🤣).

    I spent all day with a Canadian group (see last picture) who directly welcomed me! This made the trip even more fun for me! 🥰    Read more

  • Lisa KalettaCamino PortuguésLisa Kaletta
    2

    Last day in Lisbon/Portugal

    May 21, 2025 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    My last day in Lisbon and also Portugal has come.

    I finally left my hostel (I did not like the place at all for several reasons).
    I walked along the Tejo until reaching the Ponte de 25 abril. Quite an impressive construction that resembles the Golden Gate Bridge!

    A few kilometers later, I reached the famous Belém Tower. Unfortunately, it was closed due to construction works but even from outside it was beautiful.

    On my way in direction to my hostel, I crossed the monument Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the monastery Mosteiro dos Jerónimos.
    By coincidence, I also crossed the LX Factory which is a big market built on a factory site. Since yesterday's tour guide highly recommended to go there, I strolled along the bars, restaurants and shops and finally treated myself to a fancy Gin Tonic on a rooftop bar and simply enjoyed the view. 🥰

    When I left the market, the temperatures were a bit lower and somehow I was in the mood for a walk.
    Therefore, I hiked all the rest to my hostel close to the airport. 💪    Read more

    Trip end
    May 21, 2025