• Jasmine Ware
現在旅行中
9月 2017 – 9月 2025

The Great White North

Jasmine もっと詳しく
  • JACKPOT!!!

    2017年12月1日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ -14 °C

    And so the addiction begins…with a little taste of winning glory…..

    The plan was to corrupt, I mean introduce, another coworker to bingo last Friday. He’d never played, is up here alone, and he seems to have an open attitude so I thought it would be fun. My boss agreed to host us and so it was set. Well, the newcomer backed out and, on autopilot, I still found myself walking to the radio station to get a bingo card. It wasn’t until I was walking home that I thought, “Why did I buy this? I am tired and the only reason I was gonna play this week was to show my coworker.” Oh well, if you have a card, you gotta play!

    This week it was different. The bingo caller was a native English speaker and was calling in English. However, she was going WAY too fast and I was getting irritated. She was taking all the fun out of the dobbing experience. I couldn’t even rearrange myself in my seat much less take a drink before she was on to the next number. I decided I needed to call the radio station and tell her to slow down. That’s when we realized we didn’t have the number for the radio station; the number listed in the phone book did not dial to the station. Hmmmm…..I scour all 200 entries for Igloolik backwards and forwards. In this town, you can literally read each and every entry in the phone book! Lol. I found nothing. I was getting very agitated now because my boss was having to do both my card and his while I was fiddling with the phone book. Now, I don’t want to say anything bad about his bingo skills since he was kind enough to take over, but let’s just say, missing numbers is not unheard of on his cards. Finally, we both got the idea at the same time to randomly call another coworker and ask for the radio station’s number…cause of course we can find HIS number in the phone book but not the radio station’s. So that is what I did…called him, out of the blue, slightly frantic and explained that I needed the radio station number so I could ask the caller to slow down bingo. Isn’t that what you did last Friday night? Sure enough, he recited the number from memory off the top of his head and I made my call just as the last game was starting. The last game is the Jackpot round where you have to dob all of the numbers on the bingo sheet to win.
    The caller had slowed down. It was much more relaxing. I even had time to check over my numbers and take a sip of my drink every so often. As the game continued, I noticed that one of my cards was getting full so I double-checked to make sure I hadn’t missed any numbers. Sure enough, I had and that left me with only 2 empty spaces. The caller called the next number and it was one of mine. I was down to one. Never happens. Sure enough, the next number wasn’t mine and I knew I had lost because if I’M down to one space then someone, somewhere else, has been down to one space for probably several rounds. But, lo and behold no one called in and when the caller called the next number, my mouth actually dropped open. I stared at my now completely covered bingo card in disbelief. I looked at my boss and his mouth was kinda gaping too with a look of “is this for real?!” I echoed his thoughts and said, “Holy shit, is this for real??!!!” “Oh my god! I’ve got a bingo!! I gotta call the station! Thank god I persevered to find the number earlier!!!” I was shaking and nervous because you have to call in and the whole town can hear you saying your numbers. What if I was wrong?? I was gonna sound like such an idiot. I called all of them and it was a good bingo! I won the JACKPOT! They told me to come down to the station to pick up my winnings and I hung up. Immediately, I began jumping up and down and whooping. You see, this jackpot was no measly $20. No my friends. I was the sole winner of TWO THOUSAND DOLLARS!!!! Two grand! Can you believe that??!! My god! That’s serious money. I screamed at my boss, “Go start your ATV, I gotta go get my money!”
    He was driving a bit fast and loose over to the station for my liking and I yelled to not murder me on my big win night. To which he replied, “Oh no, definitely not, I’m gonna wait until you have the money in hand.” Hahaha.
    My winnings were disbursed in all 20 dollar bills. Has anyone actually carried around 2 grand in 20’s? It’s um, how shall I say, very rapper-esque. I felt like I need to have some gold chains on my neck and a rubber band in my pocket to hold my bank. Hilarious.
    The JACKPOT I say! I still can’t believe it.
    I promptly sent my coworker that decided not to play a text message explaining how he’d missed out big time on bingo night. Now we’ll never win anything again.
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  • the grind

    2017年11月25日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    As all those that are smarter than me know, once the novelty wears off, it turns out that daily life is a grind here. All manner of things conspire to create "grind" living. You just have to be tough to survive the Arctic I think. I'm not sure I'm all that tough.

    Take for instance the machines. There are no garages. With the continual snow, the machines have to be dug out daily. Then, they have to be started well before you think you want to leave. Oh, is it really cold? Gotta change the spark plugs so the machine will run. The tires lose air in the cold so you gotta pump those up. Oh, did your door ice shut and you can't get out of your house? And this is just the beginning of winter. And, I don't have to worry about any of those things. I just show up and get a ride. And, all this is to say I'm a big wimp. What brings that into even clearer focus is a story that gripped the community this week. A man and his cousin, a 13 year old, got lost traveling from Igloolik to Hall Beach by snowmobile. They left Sunday night and weren't found till Thursday evening (though it should be noted they weren't actually ever found....they walked themselves to Hall Beach...and were seen walking). They survived for 4 days with no supplies, food, water, or shelter. !!! Then, they WALKED to Hall Beach. Igloolik is 70 km (44 miles) from Hall Beach. I have no idea how far they were when they got lost in the blizzard. All I know is that I don't think I'm that tough. I got tired shoveling my porch last night. Not sure how I'm gonna move 400lb fuel drums next field season, but cheers to blindly moving forward!! (Here's a link to the article: http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/survival-st…)

    I did get a wonderful surprise this week. The group of ladies whom I went through a volunteer program that taught us how to tutor illiterate adults with sent me an amazing care package. It was such a blast to open it up and see all the different things packed in there! I felt like I did on Christmas as a child. (even brownies were included---and my friend Nikki knows what a sucker I am for those!!) All the things we take for so granted down south and can't get here.....it's amazing. I even dreamed last night about fast internet....the kind where you click and the page loads immediately....like you don't see the little loading circle ever.....!!! That's the stuff of my fantasies now. I also dreamed the day before that I had to taste test a bunch of desserts and cupcakes. .....I might be going insane.

    Anyway, back to my point of thanks on Thanksgiving......I know folks see the news and might think that humans suck, but my personal experience is that I feel like I sucked all the good people out of the cosmos and surrounded myself with them because my life is so enriched by those around me. I don't know what I did in a previous life to deserve such caring and thoughtful folks around me. Being in this position is really humbling. I hate feeling so needy, but I am so damn thankful for everyone's calls, texts, comments, emails, and care packages! Maybe this is why I've been doing so well up here! If I didn't have such a fantastic group of humans taking care of me remotely, I would probably be crying in my non-draining bathtub right now.

    In other news, I cut the back of my hair this week. The rat tail was getting out of hand. My hair was flipping on my collar. Has anyone tried to give themselves a layered pixie cut in the back? Me neither. It's hard. Especially when the second mirror I was using to see the back of my head was from a broken compact. I don't want to make anything too easy. It was slow going and required some wrist contortions, but in the end, it's not the worst thing I've ever seen. Now, when the top and full back have to be done....it's gonna be an undertaking. I can't see anyone's hair now that it's cold. Everyone has hats on so I can't ask who cuts their hair. I wanted to find a short haired lady and inquire. Oh well. Necessity is the mother of cutting your own hair.
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  • Fall in Igloolik

    2017年11月21日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Ah, the title conjures up images of hot apple cider, vibrantly colored trees, crisp mornings, and pumpkin spice everything. Igloolik fall? Oh, definitely the same. Nothing different about fall here. Well, except everything. lolol. In one week, the daylight will be done. Currently, we have just under 3 hrs of semi-daylight---if you can call the sun rising about two inches above the horizon daylight. lol. The mornings are definitely crisp, though we've gone through a warming spell. In fact, it got up to -15 and I thought, "I'll just take my trash out to the dumpster with no coat or hat on since it's so warm." I even put back the big parka and broke the little guy back out---though I will say, the little parka now seems rather inferior and lame. Nonetheless, it is way less bulky and keeps me warm---but its fur is no match for the big parka's fur. I wanna sleep in the big parka's fur. I have a feeling I might be draped in animal skins the next time someone sees me.

    While those down south are enjoying fall leaves and football on the weekend, I have been enjoying such activities as helping dig my boss's qamatik out of the snow. The qamatik (various spellings) is a wooden sled that was traditionally pulled by dogs. It is about 12-15 feet long and the runners are 2x10s. The runners have a piece of teflon plastic to reduce drag. The two runners are spaced about 3 feet apart. Two-by-fours or something similar make up the decking with about an inch of space between each board. You can leave the qamatik open, like a flat-bed truck, or you can lash a shelter onto it. My boss has a box that he puts on it so we had to get that out too. It was the width of the qamatik and 8ft long; a plywood box. Trying to maneuver and pull these wooden items through the drifts of snow was more than enough work out for me.

    I finished off the wild weekend with some more bingo---didn't win again---and started a jigsaw puzzle. The activities I engage in here are truly exciting.

    Today, there was no work because of a blizzard. However, it's not like when you were a kid and you could watch the TV to see if school was canceled. I have no way to know. And, because my job is so weird about email/internet, I cannot even check my email on non-work servers (exceedingly annoying actually). Thus, I can't get the bulletin that work is closed. So, what do I do? I open the door this morning, have it nearly blown back in my face, and then slam it shut, muttering, "Aw hell naw." Which means I trudged back in to find my goggles, put them on, zipped up the coat fully, pulled the neck gaiter up, and pushed back outside. I have been getting rides to work from my boss so I headed towards his place. As I wound through the buildings, the drifts were catching my feet on what was usually a well-packed path. I emerged from between the housing units and saw neither his ATV or Skidoo were running. And, that's how I knew there was no work. Nevertheless, we decided to go to work for a bit just to finalize some things. I mean, what else am I gonna do? Go to the mall. bhahahaha.

    It was quite the trip getting back home though. Turns out living in Washington made me familiar with snow. The difference now is that I am IN the weather, not just driving through it with a climate-controlled, warm car. Nope, snow-ice pelting my face as we slip and slide on the ATV back home is a real treat. The light is so flat you can't see any features. Hence, we drove right into a 2-3ft snow drift without even seeing it. Oops. Get to push the ATV out and continue on your way----away from the edges of the road.

    Thankfully, I have plenty of food to eat because I'm pretty sure I'm not going back out in this to the store and there won't be any planes coming in anyhow. Now just to relax in the cozy warmth of home and stuff my face. :)
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  • Is that an ice pick in my forehead?

    2017年11月14日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ -24 °C

    No, it is not an ice pick in my forehead. It's the damn wind again. Right between the eyes. Just stabbing it's way through bone to tweak those little skull nerves. I have to believe that if you're the one driving the snowmobile then the windshield must protect you from that. Otherwise, I would drive nowhere! I'd have to have a full face shield on.

    Today was exciting though. Many exciting things happened. First, one of my lost boxes arrived!! It had been shipped to Qikiqtarjuaq (Kih kih tar zhu ack). Obviously. The waybill number and the town Igloolik clearly look like Qikiqtarjuaq. Easy mistake. Then, somehow, it makes its way back to Igloolik but gets shipped to the Internet provider here in town. ??? Did they open it, see the dismantled drafting table and trash can and think, "Ah, yes, must be the internet company's things!" ??? Then, once at the internet company's place, I have no clue how they figured out it was mine. But, they did, and they called my cell and delivered it to my house. By "They" I mean, I have no idea who called me or delivered it to my house. That is the way here. Ask no questions. Just take your box and be happy! And I was!!

    I had to send something for work via the post office. I told the young lady and she said it would be $1.05. I said, "Are you sure because I really think this might be more than a regular letter stamp." So, she put it on the scale and then measured it. She input the info and Canada Post spit out the price. $14.95. 0_o !! She was gonna try and send that thing for a dollar. Oh boy. And, I didn't mention this, but the reason I even asked was because just yesterday I went to the post office and there was a returned envelope for me for insufficient postage. Ahem. The ladies are quite sweet and kind, but I am not sure they're super well-informed about how postage is calculated.

    I also had a pause and reflect moment today when I heard from a very old, good friend that I grew up, literally, on the same street with. I'm probably not supposed to tell this, but he received news that he was being offered multiple positions at Google to work under some of the highest executives there. Additionally, he has an interview this week with the CEO of Instagram. Now it doesn't matter what his job is. What we were discussing was how surreal it was for him to interview at Google, then receive all those job offers, and THEN be asked to go talk to Instagram. I was hearing all this from him as I was going home to lunch. I had to tell him that I wanted to hear his story, but very likely I would be picked up by a snowmobile soon and it might get loud. Sure enough, my ride vroomed by and I jumped on the back, still on the line with my friend. All he could hear was the high pitched whining of the snowmobile and the ludicrousness of each of our respective situations launched us into uncontrollable laughter. His life right now, my life right now...we couldn't catch our breath we were laughing so hard. I was, in fact, cackling. They say you don't know where life will take you and for my friend and I this afternoon, we really felt life was taking us for a ride!

    Speaking of rides, another pause and reflect moment came this afternoon on the way home from work, in the dark...because you know, the sun is setting right around 2:15pm (rising at 10am). Again, on the snowmobile. The wind just whipping. The snowmobile feels loose and slippery on the packed roads. A bit dangerous, but exhilarating. It feels faster than the ATV. I found myself gleefully grinning as my boss gunned the engine and we flew over the hills and bumps, slightly catching air on the back. Exciting in a slightly scary way. The type of exciting scary that makes you want to scream and maybe even go faster! And, that's when I smiled even bigger because that's exactly how I've always been and exactly how my dad was (he used to drag race semi-professionally for goodness sakes!). This past weekend marked the anniversary of his passing and today I couldn't help but think that he would be so stoked about all the adventures I was having. And that made me smile.
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  • Hallelujah for humidifier

    2017年11月13日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ -22 °C

    I am beyond excited. My humidifier arrived today! I think I'm going to set her up on my bedside table and stare lovingly into the mist as it soothes my aching nose to sleep. The say absence makes the heart grow fonder and I believe this should be applied to inanimate objects as well, not just relationships. Take the humidifier for example. I did not have one. My nose and throat have been aching for weeks. It's been awful. I can't simply go peruse various shopping establishments to get one. I order it and have to wait for almost two weeks. Then, it arrives but the store closes at 6pm and I arrived by plane at 540. Was not able to make it. The next day was Remembrance Day (Veteran's Day) so the store was closed. The next day was Sunday so the post office was closed. FINALLY, TODAY was the day to get my precious package!! There she was, tiny yet powerful. I am so tired of blowing bloody pieces from my nose. It just isn't right! I'm tired of sleeping with the sheets over my face and dry coughing throughout the night. I faced this similar stuff in Mongolia, but I was only there for a month so I could deal. If this humidifier is broken for some reason, I will most definitely be crying...real tears.

    That's it folks. That's my life. Revolves around getting a humidifier at the post office. I mean I did grab a few other grocery items, but as usual, there were key missing ones like creamer. That stuff is rare---always empty on the shelves. I'm going to have to buy them out the next time it's in. They did have milk so that will have to do.

    I braved a -36C (-33F) windchill to get my mighty mucous membrane healer. I was fortunate however, to catch a ride to the store from my boss cause he was going to the post office as well. Apparently, it was too cold for his ATV to start so he had to clear off and start the snowmobile. He says and I quote, "Fuck it's cold!" I take in the fact that he has goggles and a face protector on while he says this. I instantly recoil and think, "Nope, I can't go outside. If this crazy arctic person thinks it's cold, I will certainly die." But then, I think of my humidifier and I think of all the other people that manage to survive this....and I pull on my mitts and hop on the back!

    My boss also tells me that he hopes the snowmobile stays running because he has warm weather spark plugs in it?? Whaaaa?? Does anyone know what that means? Are there different spark plugs for warm and cold weather?? Is the gap different? I don't know anything about this. In this instance, the snowmobile did great, got our packages, hunkered down hiding from the wind, and made it back home in less than 20 min. I'm gonna have to get some sort of motorized transport. I am far too lazy to keep up this walking nonsense and lord knows I ain't biking!!
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  • A latte AND a haircut!

    2017年11月11日, カナダ ⋅ ❄️ -11 °C

    That's right folks, went to the big city and lived it up! Got a latte one day and a haircut on another day! I bought hummus and a dill cucumber dressing to take back with me. had a fountain pepsi in the city. I went to a restaurant and got macaroni and cheese and a real green salad. The luxury was endless. I stepped off the plane onto the tarmac ramp and my brain's first thought was, "Ooooh, pavement, that's nice under my feet". I kid you not. I didn't even realize I hadn't walked on anything but snow for weeks. There is no pavement in Igloolik, but even if there was, it would be snow covered so it doesn't matter.

    And this is how acclimation starts. Slowly, you forget and don't realize how you're adapting. It's not as if I was walking around thinking, "Man, sure wish I had some pavement to walk on". I have however, been thinking of how I'm going to get my hair cut. I KNOW there has to be someone in town cutting hair in their house. I just have to find a lady with short hair and ask who cuts her hair. Otherwise, I'm going to be learning a lot of voodoo mirror magic trying to cut the back of my hair......probably be a roaring success too. Professional all the way.

    I was down in the city for work and I brought two big suitcases because we get two for free on the work flights. One was empty and the other about half empty. Several other folks do the same. You literally carry empty suitcases around so that you can fill them with whatever you need from the city.....such as hummus....or over the counter medication we don't have here. Whatever you need. I brought back two suitcases filled to the airline's weight limit. Proud of myself. haha.

    Things that you just don't think about. I used to travel as light as I could. Carry on all the way. Even getting back to our houses is different. No one has a vehicle. There were 8 of us traveling. No one has a car. As I've mentioned before, they don't do well here and if something goes wrong, there are no parts stores.... So, how do you get that many people, with their luggage, to their homes? Obviously, the husband of one person carries on of us on the back of the snowmobile to the warehouse where the work truck is kept. We get off the machine, get in the warehouse, and bring the truck to retrieve everyone (since it was work travel, we could use the work truck to tote people home).

    On the plane ride, almost every single person (All 18 passengers) had some sort of winter parka with fur on it. When I looked ahead, all I could see was fur and heads poking above the seats. Even the flight attendant is in snow pants and a parka. Children have their parkas specially customized to include fur around the hoods. I was getting advice on how to alter my parka's fur so that it was better at protecting my face. I really want some seal skin mitts. I've been told those or wolf/dog skin mitts are the best. That I will really need them. I never thought I'd be pining for wolf or dog skin mittens and checking out folks that were wearing them in a jealous type way. "Man, I WANT those!" lolol. So far, my hands have stayed quite warm in the Outdoor Research brand mitts I've been wearing. But, again, I'm always walking and generating heat when I'm outside. I have heavier duty mitts, but haven't needed them yet.

    In the city, it was so warm, that I was walking about without a hat or gloves. It was 10 F (-12C). Never thought that would happen and it already is after just a few short weeks here. I can't wait to see what I'm wearing when it's 30 F (-1C)!! Bathing suit time!!

    So, the point of this blog is to say, I think I'm acclimating and not even realizing it.
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  • Fat bike foolishness

    2017年11月5日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ -21 °C

    I bought this beautiful fat bike, had it shipped up with all my personal belongings, and finally got around to putting on its fat bike rack and panniers. They were awesome. Can carry a cat or 40 lbs of groceries! I was stoked to take her out on her inaugural spin.

    I failed, however, to account for the effects of -11 F (-24C) weather on, well, everything. My lungs, the bike, my legs, the lock.

    Tooling around outside the house was so fun. The sound the fat tires make on the packed snow is really neat and I like it. I got excited so I set off for the store and to buy a jigsaw puzzle I saw on the internet. It was gonna be great! Did I mention that I am currently incubating some Arctic microbe in my chest? Yep, it's giving me a sweet cough and tight chest so far while draining my energy. Super fun...and best time to go for a bike ride in extreme cold.

    Halfway to the store I realized that I could no longer change gears because they'd frozen. The end. That's the gear I'm gonna be in. I get to the store. A little tired but manageable. Go to lock the bike up. The cable lock? Completely frozen. Like a rock. Better anchor than lock. Hmmm...well, that's a waste.

    I grab my store things and start heading out to find my puzzle person. As I've mentioned before, there are no road signs or names and so it's just the house number that you look for. However, the house numbers may or may not make sense. Newer areas of development will have similar numbers, but those new developments may be interspersed in older developments. Thus, the numbers can be all jumbled.

    It also turns out that the store is slightly downhill from home. Hmmm.....things just got a lot more exerting. I know exerting shouldn't be used in a sentence like that, but I wanted to because that's what happened....everything got more 'exerting'. I thought I was going to pass out. My already tight chest was squeezed by the huffing and puffing of the crazy cold air and my legs were fighting against my pants and snowpants and giant rubber boots as I wobbled up the hills. Oooooh, it burned. Everything. I finally got to my street and realized that the puzzle person literally lived in the house next to mine. I realized I'd ridden up town and then around town to find this house and it was next door to mine the whole time. I am not bright on so many levels.

    Kids complimented my bike as I inched by, barely staying vertical. I wheezed, "It's way too hard. Not worth it! Walk!!" I had to take a break before I could haul this thing up the stairs to my house where I wheeled it in and promptly laid prone to recover.

    I went and got the puzzle later. I think that's a better idea for my Igloolik activities...almost positive I won't pass out while puzzling.
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  • Is that the fire alarm?

    2017年11月3日, Northwest Passage ⋅ 🌫 -19 °C

    Doo tee doo tee doo, minding my own business, clattering away in my office, and all of a sudden I hear this loud, clanging alarm going on. I get up, pad out (you know, cause I'm in my footies), and look around to see what the others are doing. I say, "is that the fire alarm?" "No", comes the reply. "That is the sewage alarm".

    Ah yes, of course it is. The sewage alarm. Excellent. We're still looking at each other. "Ummmm, okay, what do we do about it??!!" You call the city and ask them to come pump your tank. The person I'm looking at is already calling and sorting that out. Apparently there is is a dedicated hotline for these water/sewage issues. Anyone who has lived more than 6 months here knows this number by heart. Again, excellent. I am so looking forward to the day when I wake up, use the bathroom, and discover that that thing don't flush. You see, our houses don't have alarms. Nope, you just discover your sewage tank is full (or water tank empty) when the plumbing stops working, which everyone adores.

    I leave the man to make the call and head back into my office contemplating how long I'll have to hold the bladder that was already voicing its desire to be evacuated. Hmmm. About an hour later, I pad back out, go to the call-man and ask, "Ummmm, how do we know when we can go back to the bathroom??" You see, there's no calming chime or some such noise that indicates "all clear!" That would be handy. The guy looks at me and says, "Oh you're good to go." "How do you know this??", I ask with my ears perked. He tells me that he heard the truck outside. Oh, okay. You just heard the truck. Sure. That seems reasonable. I asked if he was just punking the new person but he assured me that he really did just hear the truck and so he knew it was done. Seems a bit of a dangerous game to play with sewage if you ask me.

    I have been noticing that the cold is starting to seemingly seep into my protective layers. Walking to work, I'm noticing that my arms are feeling the chill. And, my legs are starting to too. Then, today, catching a ride home from work on the ATV, I got an ice-cream headache from the cold air hitting my face. That is bizarre. You get the ice-pick in the forehead sensation with none of the delicious ice cream/slushy reward. What a crock!! I think I'm going to break out the big parka soon. Right now, I am using North Face's "Arctic" parka for women with 550 gram down fill. It's lovely and I really like it. However, the fur is not furry enough---it doesn't hug my face like it needs to and there's no way to tighten it. And, I need the 800-900 gram down fill. In the serious Arctic parkas, the hoods have a wire lining the edge that you can bend to mold to your face shape which allows the furred hood to really block the wind. Secondly, this jackets hood is detachable which sounds like a good thing until you realize that 'detachable' is another word for 'wind holes'. Because it's not sewn on all the way round, wind sneaks in from the sides and gets on my cheeks and face. I've taken to wearing a neck gaiter every day which is nice, but it's getting colder.

    I do like that dress code is non-existent. I've always liked jobs like that. I hate having to look presentable. It's too much dang work! I didn't even bring any jewelry up here. At all. Makeup? I haven't worn any foundation or mascara or whatever for months. Hair? Ha! Hair! You wear a knit cap to and from work and with short hair....mine just looks like every other man's hair here---all wild and smushed and swirled. So that's how we sit around, in socks with hat hair.
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  • No pumpkins but a lot of pumped kids

    2017年10月31日, Northwest Passage ⋅ ☁️ -21 °C

    You know who doesn't care that it's -8F and feels like -31F (-22/-35C)? Kids. Kids on Halloween. And they were RUNNING from house to house. For a place where treats and sweets are priced like gold, the opportunity to get FREE sugar from strangers is their utopia. I mean, kids everywhere love Halloween, but here, with the prices and luxury of candy, Halloween becomes the childrens' Shangri-La (if Shangri-La were not a place, but a day....you know what I'm getting at). AND, the kids are not dumb. They specifically target all the government housing units, i.e. all the government employees such as teachers, scientists, HR, IT, whatever. Anyone non-native and they're on the hit list. LIterally gaggles of children swarm the houses sometimes creating a line both UP the stairs to the door and DOWN the stairs as they flit away. Estimates range from 200-400 kids will visit your house. You are warned to be prepared. I was told by the HR person hiring me and told to bring candy with me in order to be able to afford enough. Yeah, right! I would have had to buy a crate load for all the kids that come out.

    I lasted a whole 27 minutes before I was completely candy dry. Trick or treating is not allowed to start until 6pm sharp. And, boy do they start sharp. Those kids are probably like thoroughbreds at the gates before the start of the race. I bet their parents can't get dinner in their keyed up bellies. Apparently, the hullabaloo ends at 8pm....though I'm not sure who still has candy at 8! I suspect these strict hours were established so that all kids had a fair shot at getting some candy since there are not limitless places such as malls, neighborhoods, community events to go to like there are down south. There is a very very finite number of resources here, and by resources I mean Hershey's, so making sure there's a chance for the kids to have some probably created these timing schemes......that's my professional, all of two months in the Arctic, opinion.

    I noticed a lot of homemade, altered garments for costumes as well as face paint. This makes sense since there is no "Halloween" store popping up on the corner to sell exclusively Halloween stuff and Walmart is a mere two day plane ride and roughly 3 grand away in Ottawa......yeah, not a lot of parents going down for a costume shopping trip. And, when the parents may have the opportunity to actually be south, Halloween costumes aren't out for sale. So, the get-ups here are definitely a more traditional sort. One kid had some great Spiderman face painting and I complimented his makeup. His mom or grandma was with him and she was totally stoked. She said it was her first time doing Spiderman makeup.

    Also the same same, but different is seeing kids roll up on snowmobiles and ATV's. The best is when they are being pulled by snowmobile in a qammitik (traditional Inuit sled). Instead of cars parked along the road, just idling off road vehicles.

    I'll know for next year to order up about 1000 lbs of candy.
    もっと詳しく

  • Inuktitut Bingo

    2017年10月29日, カナダ ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I had heard that there was Bingo playing on the weekends and boy did my ears perk up. I LOVE bingo. I can't take credit for getting into it though. About ten years ago, my friends drove across the Tennessee state line to Kentucky, where gambling is legal, to play in one of their big bingo halls, replete with coach buses outside bringing the senior citizens to play. I made relentless fun of my friends. Then, they won $1000 and I shut my mouth and joined them. It turns out that it is actually pretty fun. I love the action of searching for the numbers and dobbing the cards. Bright, fun colors. After moving from Tennessee, I drove across the state line in Washington to Idaho, where gambling is legal, to play in the Moose Lodge. It even became a little bit of a thing with other friends and colleagues joining me at the lodge to play Bingo. I have some great memories of our group calling out the Moose call and playing bingo.

    So, when I heard Igloolik had bingo, I was over the moon. Then, I was filled in on the details. There is no gathering. No light-up bingo board. No burgers or beer. Nope, you play bingo here, alone, in your house, by listening to the radio...in Inuktitut. !!! When I told my friend this, she just laughed and laughed and then told me in no uncertain terms that I was not allowed to sit at home, alone, with the cat, gambling by myself. I gave that image some thought and decided she was definitely right. Plus, I don't have a radio. Can't play bingo without a radio.

    I innocently asked my new boss if he had a radio. To which he replied, "yes, an old one. Why, you playin bingo?" Bahahaha. I said, "Nope, WE'RE playin bingo". He laughed it off until I showed up at his door with bingo cards.

    You have to buy the bingo cards from the radio station. Which, I of course, had to find first. Because the town is so small, there are no real addresses and no signs on the buildings. So, you just have to know which building is what. I went inside and was, of course, the only non-local in there. Not a bit of English being spoke. But, the good news is that most every adult CAN speak English if they want so I know I can communicate if necessary. I bought a pack, they stamped them all with the date to make sure I wasn't using older cards I guess, and took my name down. There were other little scratch-offs and stuff that you could buy too, but I didn't look into that.

    I gathered my bingo bag, some snacks, and a real sense of bingo excitement! Showed up at boss's door, barged in and told him to GET THE RADIO WE HAVE NO TIME!! How do we know when they start? We can't speak Inuktitut! Can't miss the numbers cause there's no one to ask!! Cmon man, let's go!!! Turns out I was about 15 min early. Oops.

    I pulled out the cards and my boss exclaimed, "Holy shit! Is this for a year of bingo?!!" Having never played before, his reaction was exactly the same as newcomers I'd drug along to bingo in the past. Hilarious. I had to explain the key. It shows the different shapes and games that we were gonna play. Here, for each game, you actually dob not one, but 9 cards simultaneously, which can be a bit overwhelming. He was overwhelmed. And, if you don't understand how the numbers are split exclusively into the specific columns of B I N G and O, it's quite overwhelming thinking you have to search each, entire card, for one little number. I was cracking up because it brought back so many memories of the folks at the Moose Lodge freaking out that they have to make an "M" or "small picture frame" on their bingo cards....x 9.

    So there we were, listening to nothing we could understand when all of a sudden we think we here English spattering of "n g o", "one bingo anyway" but it's interspersed with Inuktitut so we're straining and worried we're gonna miss it. Then we heard it! A definite bingo number. Thankfully, they call the numbers in English. But, everything else is in Inuktitut so you've got your ears perked and listening for that one little snippet of English. My boss becomes mad that he didn't have any of that number. Then, I lean over and gently show him that he had that number on 3 of his 9 cards and we burst out laughing because nothing makes you feel dumber than not being able to read numbers on a game you play as a child. It really takes you down a notch. I know, I've been there.

    Also what throws you off is that people call the radio station throughout the bingo to ask about numbers they might have missed or ask a question. Again, we hear a phone ringing, then indecipherable Inuktitut, back and forth, back and forth, and then, seemingly out of the blue, "N44". And off you go! Gotta stay alert with this Inuktitut bingo. They call fast and, to us, with no warning (since we can't understand...they may be saying, "okay, get ready, here we go", but we don't know that).

    There is incentive to play because the big jackpot is 2 grand! That's basically one ticket to Iqaluit and back. lololol.

    It was fun--at least for me and I definitely have plans to have a bingo party in the future! I think that getting together a few people would be a good time! I have enough dobbers to go around!
    もっと詳しく

  • Now I understand winter goggles...

    2017年10月25日, カナダ ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Today I laughed out loud as I trudged to work. I laughed because of the ridiculousness of it all. Here I am slipping and sliding through snow and drifts created by the blizzard, which incidentally caused the entire city and government offices to shut down at lunch on Monday, thinking about how I came to be here. The wind was blowing this morning and blasting the small ice kernels right into my face and eyes. I pulled the fur closer to my face to stop the crystals from making it through so I could peer out through the fur. It turns out that in the flat light of a blizzard coupled with the time of day being pre-dawn, it is VERY hard to discern the features of the snow. I couldn't see whether the snow was raised or dipped, crusted or powder, plowed or not. Makes for even more fun walking...into the wind. It was at that moment, while walking into the wind that I just started laughing....and then I quickly stopped because that wind will hurt your damn teeth!

    Vehicles are not having an easy time of it. Yesterday, a pickup was fully engulfed in a ditch...up to it's roof (not hood, roof). Obviously, they didn't know where the edge of the road was and oops, went in the biggest ditch in town. My morning walk was filled with the sounds of spinning tires. Tonight, I tried to help dig out my neighbors who just happened to have moved from the next town over from me in BC! They've been here about 3 months and the husband does not seem to be in good spirits. Well, I don't really blame him because they gave them vehicles with no 4-wheel drive....or a tow rope. Yep, not too bright. They are priority government employees that need to be responsive and they were issued regular ole, run-about-town small SUVs. lolol.

    On the plus side, I got a ride home today from work on a snowmobile. Actually, I got a ride home at lunch too and learned that one does not ride a snowmobile without snow pants. The complete wetting of my entire lower posterior body in 5 minutes taught me that. The snow was crusted on my jeans on the front. Fool me once.....and the snow pants were on.

    Yesterday, the main store was only accepting cash for several hours. These are things that happen up here that are not really common down south.

    I don't know if I've mentioned it yet, but there are many artists in town. Apparently, Igloolik (among other hamlets) is known for producing a lot of artists. Carvers mostly. They come door to door selling their wares. They come several times per week. Sometimes more than one in a night. You get to where you just don't answer the door if you are not interested. It is easier that way. Well, when I first arrived, I saw a carving of a polar bear that balanced separately on each of his legs. It was really cool. That carver came to my door last week with a 2-way standing bear that was much smaller and cheaper than the 4-way standing bear. On the sides are carved a narwhal and walrus. Three animals in one! Last night, the carver approached me again and I bought my first Igloolik carving. It's pretty cute and I am pretty sure I now know what everyone is getting for Christmas!! I know!! Hold your excitement....chotchsky (sp?) from a place you're never gonna visit!

    We are also losing an hour of daylight a week now. In one month, we will begin the 24 hr of darkness.

    Oh, and did I mention that my other neighbors have children that are training to be long-distance runners? Yep, they train nightly by running back and forth, back and forth in the apartment for hours. They intersperse their running with jumping (presumably to build power). I know all of this because their dedication vibrates through my house and shakes me as I sit on the couch.
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  • Philip Morris' stronghold

    2017年10月21日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I cannot remember a time that I've seen so much cigarette smoking. Everyone smokes. I am sure when I grew up in the 80's it was similar, but I was too young to notice. Now, however, with smoking so taboo in so many places, the ubiquitous nature of it here is bizarre. It's not just the locals, it is everyone. You can't buy alcohol legally in town and there are no coffee shops with espresso of course. Maybe nicotine is the only legal drug folks can get away with here...?
    I guess I'm also shocked that since you can't smoke inside work or school or any buildings, that so many people would still smoke....cause it's damn COLD outside. How good is a cigarette really? Is it good enough for -30? I guess if I wasn't allowed to drink my Dr. Pepper inside, I might sneak some hits off a can outside....but I don't know when I'd hit my temperature threshold. The prices alone already have me rationing and altering my behavior. But, nicotine is a whole other beast I think. A pack of smokes goes for $25 and up on Facebook. Usually about $30 for one pack. In the capital, I believe they ran about $22 a pack....so a carton is $220. Wowsa! Even if you only smoked one carton a month ---which is only about a pack every 2.5 days that would be a big bill. Most real smokers I know go through way more than a single pack every 3ish days! A pack a day habit would cost you more than $440 a month!!! !!!!!! <--that needed more exclamation points.
    This place is mind-boggling in many aspects. The smoking is just one.
    Another thing that is bizarre to me is the no shoes at work. I am totally on board with the Canadian and other countries' practice of removing shoes at home. Makes complete sense and I love it. But, let me tell ya, I just feel weird in my little fleece slippers talking to a coworker about compliance issues or an officer about potential illegal bear stuff.....and we're all in our socks, together. I can't help but look at the uniformed officer and think that a bit of his power disappears as I gaze at his white Hanes socks. I won't even mention the weirdness I feel walking into the bathroom at work in my socks. Heeeezzzeeeggh. Is this normal? Does everyone take their shoes off at work??
    もっと詳しく

  • First tip to avoiding frostbite

    2017年10月18日, Northwest Passage ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I got my first tip for avoiding frostbite today during break time at work. Isn't that the normal convos? "So, yeah, what I do is every little while, I take my mitts off and touch my face to help thaw it back out. Besides, most of the freezing of your face only happens in the first hour. After that, it's not so bad". Me: sitting there wide-eyed, "yeah, after an hour, your skin is already frozen! Of course there's no more freezing!!" But thanks for the tip. I am apparently already in the know because I was doing just that on the way to work. My nose, chin, and cheeks just hurt. I don't want to lose the tip of my nose; it's essential for the whole face to work.

    My nose is having a rough time really. Every day and night, I'm finding bloody bits in there from the dryness. And now, now, it's gonna fall off from frostbite apparently. Poor nose.

    I think living here is gonna be quite the adventure to say the least. I learned today that because our internet is satellite and the sun is passing so low over us now that it will interfere with the satellite signal for several days in October preventing internet. I mean, seriously, who knows about this stuff??!! I'm used to the issues being that the coffee shop is out of the organic pumpkin spice mix for the day...not the sun interfering with the entire communications network of the Arctic.

    Good times.
    もっと詳しく

  • back to the city...

    2017年10月14日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Eventually, the fun had to come to an end. Another week after the blizzard and we were headed back to the city. You're never sure you're leaving until the plane actually shows up because the weather can be forecast to be great, then be complete crap. Or, it may be crap at the departure location but great where you are....gotta be good weather both ways. Luckily for us, after extensions and unavailability of aircraft that caused us to spend almost an additional week on Allen Island, our final scheduled departure actually happened on time and on the scheduled day. However, the weather became bad on our way in and they couldn't get back to get our gear that day. Thank goodness they decided to take us people out first rather than our gear---which was the initial plan because we would have been there to help the pilots load up the gear.
    My first order of business was to do laundry!! The hotel has facilities which is awesome. We all had a wonderful hot shower and enjoyed those fluffy clean beds!!
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  • Then there is a blizzard...

    2017年10月12日, カナダ ⋅ 🌙 -5 °C

    It turns out that the Arctic isn't all sugar sand beaches and tanning. Nope. Turn out, in fact, that weather goes to real crap with a quickness. I'd never had blowing snow pelt my face and body so hard that it felt like I was getting sandblasted with snow. Who needs micro-dermabrasion treatments to keep your skin smooth and soft when you can simply step into a blizzard??! Unfortunately, the poor weather forced us all to stay within the confines of the cabin for a couple of days. That was cozy.

    It was just awful outside. And, that meant that running out to the bathroom was a shock. The best part about the bathroom that I learned was that the seam between the roof and wall was apparently not water tight. So, as I was sitting on the luxurious porcelain throne, I felt snow fluttering down my back. Thankfully, it was only a brief visit that time to the bathroom because any snow down your shirt while in the restroom is just too much. Furthermore, while the snow was invading my personal space, the wind was howling and I was pretty convinced the shed was gonna blow away around me, leaving me there, on that stupid bucket. I heard sheets of tin starting to rip off and the building was shaking so I frantically got myself squared away. I stepped out of the bathroom shed to see the tin sheets trying to flip off the roof onto me and the dog. I yelled at the dog and ran for the door. I was scared the tin would cut or kill the dog, slice her right up, not to mention me. Well, the boys inside thought I was yelling because there was a polar bear. They yank open the cabin door and I'm screaming over the wind for Daisy to come in and they're screaming, "WHERE WHERE??" while grabbing guns. I don't understand what's going on and am just trying to bulldoze my way inside to get away form the scary roof and wind....which of course makes the guys think even more that there's a bear chasing me. It was all quite exciting. Everyone had some adrenaline pumping then.

    That evening I kept pestering the pilot and my boss about their estimates for wind speed. I was secretly wondering what this cabin could withstand. How well was it constructed? Are the posts actually set in the permafrost? Do the sleeping quarters actually have a proper roof or am I going to awaken to the roof being ripped off and me staring at the snow storm above my bunk?? I tell ya, I did not sleep well that night listening to the wind howl and the cabin rattle. Great, just great. Our shelter gets blown away in a snowstorm in polar bear land.

    The cabin survived and so did I. Though, we had to dig our way out of the front door. About 3 feet of snow had blown against our door. Then, finding the generator was a bit of a challenge. Had to use a probe to located it and then dig it out. It had to sit and dry for a half of a day or so. Retrieving water became impossible because all the creeks and gullies were drifted in. I spent hours for the next few days gathering and melting snow for water. Very inefficient method I quickly learned. Plus, because the winds were so fierce, the snow was filled with silt and dirt. Hard to get pure, clean snow. Nevertheless, I was able to melt enough snow to keep us good for a few days until the snow melted a bit and we could get to some streams.

    Everyone was very happy to be free to leave the cabin.
    もっと詳しく

  • Sugar sand beaches....

    2017年10月10日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

    ...are in the Arctic. If they found fish in the waters around our cabin, it would be a gold mine! You could fancy up the cabin a bit and charge tourists a gazillion dollars to come out there because in truth, it's breathtakingly beautiful. Rugged. Pristine. AND. Sugar Sand Beaches. Not even kidding. If the temps were, you know, maybe just a few degrees warmer, you could really relax on the beach...assuming a polar bear doesn't happen by....some kinks still to be worked out for my resort idea, obviously.

    Though there was no running water or any plumbing, the cabin was actually quite comfortable for me. I chose a top bunk which allowed my feline tendency to enjoy being high and spying on others to be satisfied. I felt safe and out of the way up there. I could retreat to the "upstairs", as I started calling it, and get out of the crew's way as they gathered their gear and prepared to leave for the day. In fact, the 'upstairs' would often be too hot, if you can believe that, because we also had an oil stove that we'd burn for heat. It worked really well. I wished I'd brought some shorts many nights. But, my upbringing in the South taught me to channel my inner shellfish and simply not move. At all. That way, I didn't overheat.

    And, despite the terrible sounding bathroom situation, it wasn't actually terrible. Because it's cold, there was little smell unless you raced in there right after you saw someone exit. In that case, you deserve to smell stink cause that's just dumb to enter the shitter right after someone else. I will likely never use lavender Pine-Sol in my life again, but hey, there are some casualties in this life.

    We had lots of food, though the choices were somewhat limited as the days wore on. We did not get any more food drops while I was there. Earlier in the season, gathering ice was a big job to keep the coolers stocked and food cold. It was cold enough when I was there to keep all the ice frozen in the coolers. In fact, our water jugs began to freeze outside. So, I didn't have that responsibility. I cooked every night except one. That was an exercise in creativity sometimes. I feel that food is important for keeping energy and spirits up. If you worked all day in difficult conditions and then came back to yuck food, it would be a major attitude killer. I tried to change things up but I did have to repeat some meals.

    We had a generator and plenty of gas so that wasn't really rationed which was awesome. All in all, I really can't complain. I kept myself busy enough, but not really that busy. Sweeping, planning meals, making coffee, cleaning the cabin, cooking, washing dishes, collecting water, burning trash, playing solitaire...so much to do.

    I even managed to take two modified bird baths. By modified, I mean I took a saucepan with hot water into the bathroom with a flashlight. I found a piece of relatively clean cardboard about 2 ft by 2ft and stood on that so that I didn't have to stand in the dirt and sand on the floor of the bathroom. Then, I squatted like a caveman and washed my underwear. Once clean, the undies became my washcloth (because I failed to bring either washcloth or towel). That's right, I was using my own underwear to wash myself...hey, it's cloth too right??! And, it's clean now! It's very difficult to wash your body and keep the water contained to your 2 ft x 2 ft piece of cardboard. I didn't want to get water on the floor because it would freeze and someone could slip in there. Did I mention it was chilly? Finally, I rinsed my hair with the now dirty-clean water and wrapped my hair in my old shirt (remember, no towel). I figured drying my hair with the dirty shirt would serve to both dry my hair and give my dirty shirt a little shampoo smell. Win-win. Don't judge people. You weren't there! And let me tell you. Those nasty little caveman showers had me skipping out of there like a fresh clean daisy with a pep in my step!
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  • Burning shit bags, yes, literal shit

    2017年10月9日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    4 strangers, 1 cabin, 16 days, and lots of shit bags.

    Did I mention one of the strangers was my new boss? I don't know why HR departments don't put all their new hires on an island in the arctic with their new boss for 16 days in a primitive cabin. You just cross a threshold when your boss sees you grab some toilet paper to go do some business or you see your boss getting dressed out of their jammies in the morning and brushing their teeth. Reality. But, the best part? The best part is your boss explaining the best way to layer helicopter fuel (jet-A or B) into the burn barrel to make sure the bag full of human excrement burns well. And, note, NEVER use regular gasoline to burn a shit bag. Explosions of feces occur and no one is a winner when that happens. (I did not learn this from experience. Nope, that pearl was passed along by, you guessed it, my boss). Some bosses tell you how to fill out time sheets, or best practices for running the monthly team meeting. Not mine. We go over important details like how lavender lysol over top your most recent business in the shit bucket really does hide the smell and how you never leave the cabin at night without first poking the flashlight out the door to check for polar bears (which, does, in fact, really make you evaluate seriously your need to pee and whether you can hold it until morning light).

    To be honest, burning the trash isn't so bad. We double line the poop bucket and there's even a seat mounted on the plywood hole, although, someone wasn't super great with a jigsaw and the hole isn't perfectly round. This means that a little too much time on the seat and the plywood edge sticking out becomes might uncomfortable. Not that you'd spend too much time out there because, well, it's damn cold in the bathroom. That's right, the cabin, a whole 12 ft x 15 ft, had a separate room (with the door outside) for the bathroom. Great privacy actually. Not warm, but private. You see the bucket filling up and you simply pull out the bag, douse with Jet-A and watch the fireworks. It takes several hours to burn down to nothing because while the jet fuel is smooth, it burns fast so you have to continue to add more to dry out the human waste so it will burn. Then, some shoveling and pushing around of the half burned poo and you're ready for more Jet fuel. I'm telling you, the fun never ends on Allen Island.

    I'm sure you're well done with the shit burning, but you know, that's why I got a Ph.D...so I could burn human waste on a remote island. Did I mention I was also the camp cook? hahaha---anyone else just cringe thinking about potential fecal-oral contamination?? Not to worry---no one got sick on my food. Had a 3 burner propane camping stove which was great, but hard to manage the "heat" settings.

    I'll write more in the coming days, but for now, I'll sign off because it's been a very long day. If you've ever had to push an atv up ramps into the belly of a plane, you'll know why I'm tired. Gee Wilikers!
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  • You're the cabin defense for polar bears

    2017年9月22日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Things I never thought I'd hear in my life...."You'll be kept back with the other person and you two will have to protect the cabin and yourselves from polar bears." I'm not sure what exclusions are in my life insurance policy but surely they haven't thought of that one!

    The weather is looking good for tomorrow which means I will be heading out to an island with a cabin, and apparently, lots of bears. Not to worry, I don't think anyone has ever died there. They did however, start keeping two people at the cabin after a lone person got chased to the roof by a bear and had no one to help him until the crew returned, or so the story goes. So now, two stay. See, safety first!

    I got all sorts of fun goodies thanks to my generous employer. The Arctic ain't nothing if it isn't sexy. Shoo-wee...some really hot items here. Rain jacket parkas and winter ice boots. Insulated rubber boots...it does not come hotter than that folks. High heels and stilettos...pssshh....institution green, thick rubber boots that enlarge your feet by 4 sizes is where it's at! It's like a push up bra for your feet....you automatically get 'enhanced' multiple sizes!

    I'm off to enjoy my last night of civilization! This cabin they tell me of is supposedly just big enough for 2 bunk beds (so 4 people with beds) and a very small kitchen--something like 12x12ft altogether. I was told to prepare for anywhere from 4 days to unknown. Sure, that's easy enough. How much fun will this be? Me and three of my new best friends enjoying the 12ftx12ft cabin (hope no one has gas). What a way to meet your boss, huh?!
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  • Supply and demand: a case in cat pee

    2017年9月21日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    The Arctic is tough. Tough to build on with the permafrost. Tough to get equipment and resources. Tough to work within the weather constraints. But, what remains the same is a little scenario called "supply and demand". It turns out that when things are in very low supply but there is a big demand, weird things happen. I know, I know, shocking to all. The story I'd like to share today begins with an itinerary that got bumped up a day for two travelers. Two travelers that were racing against impending bad weather that had the potential to trap them in a place they didn't want to be trapped in for many days. So, they raced to Iqaluit and figured they'd sort the accommodations when they arrived----or the folks helping arrange their travel would have it sorted. Unfortunately for them, Iqaluit recently lost on of its big hotels to renovations into residences and this week has the annual trade show in town. There was not a hotel room, b&b, airbnb, or anything to be found. These guys ended up bunking in a private house, one on an air mattress and the other on a couch. The best part is that during the night, the resident male cat visited the person on the air mattress and delivered a special treat of cat piss on the mattress while he was on it (though, as I understand it, it was on the corner of the mattress and so only 'marginally' affected the person's personal sleeping bag and bedroll). The other person, sleeping on the couch, felt certain that the couch was the regular site of the cat's 'special deliveries' based on the overwhelming aroma of kitty-specific smell. I lied, the best part was that these accommodations cost them......$400. So, the next time you feel like complaining about your Super8 or Holiday Inn's scratchy linens at $159 per night....just remember about supply and demand. (For me, I would like to retract my statements about my b&b---it was AWESOME--not one cat peed on me, not once).

    Tonight, I have made it to the big leagues and am in the main, serious hotel. When I walked in my room, there was satellite classical music playing on the flat screen and chocolates awaiting me on the bed! That's right...and the rate for this? A quite reasonable $210/night. I'm so excited to go eat in the hotel restaurant tonight!! They even serve alcohol!! Iqauit is the only city that serves booze in public places such as a restaurant. This week they opened their first beer and wine store. It grossed 10% of its yearly predicted revenue in 4 days. I think it's going to do well---though, you can only buy a 12pack and 2 bottles of wine per day.

    For those wanting a bit more history, Iqaluit (formerly known as Frobisher Bay) was apparently the very first European settlement (excluding Vikings) in North America---sometime around mid-1500's....but I'd like someone to fact check that for me. The bay is very beautiful with interesting rocks and sunsets. Additionally, this area boasts the 2nd highest tide in Canada (Bay of Fundy has the highest). There you go--fun facts for the day. :)
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  • Flexibility is the only ability.

    2017年9月19日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    That's right. I'm not in Igloolik right now. That's because last Friday I got a call from someone I did not yet know wondering if I was headed down to help with the field crew. Ummm, nope. I kinda knew that wasn't the end of it and sure enough, yesterday, on Monday, I got the call to come to Iqaluit and be prepared to go anywhere for anywhere from 4 days to 2 weeks. The person watching Dubby said as he dropped me off at the airport, "See you in 45 days." And, I think that sums it up.
    I arrived here and man, oh man, did this town of about 8000-9000 seem HUGE! Bustling. Busy. Whoa! So many stores. There is even a chiropractic store. I'm staying in a B&B for goodness sakes (albeit, a B&B where you make your own breakfast and I'm pretty sure I'm sharing the same bathroom as the people that live there...). There are multiple RESTAURANTS and PAVED roads. I'm tellin ya, this place is big time.
    I arrived and got some lunch and then went about to try and find the department I'd been directed to. Mind you, I did not get an address and could not find an address online. I just figured if I asked around, eventually I could find it. When I actually arrived, at HQ, actually, they thought I was a bit crazy to just have wandered around until I found it. But, oddly enough, they all knew me (well, the front desk didn't--they thought I was crazy), but the HR and travel staff did. Pretty funny. I wasn't able to tell them anything about what I needed or what my plans were because I actually do not know. Literally just told to get down here and go to HR. Hilarious. The HR manager drives me over to where I'm actually supposed to be and there is a couple people in there that exclaim when I am escorted in, "Oh Jasmine! We've been looking for you! We went down to your B&B and you weren't there!" Lol. That's because I was wandering around Iqaluit trying to figure out where I was supposed to be.
    Tomorrow I get an orientation AND maybe even a tour. Then, off to get kitted out for the field. No idea folks. No idea.

    Lesson: flexibility is the only ability...especially in my current situation.
    もっと詳しく

  • whale jello trampoline

    2017年9月15日, Igloolik ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It's a jello trampoline, a jello trampoline, a jello trampoline (sung in the tune of "Yellow Submarine"). Bet you never knew there was a rhyme for yellow submarine! But there is! And it's for when you're jumping on a rotting whale carcass! It's like a jello trampoline.
    Things to be grateful for: cold weather when investigating decomposing sea mammals.

    So that was a big highlight of the day. Getting to see a washed up bowhead whale carcass. Also exciting was realizing that the grease from the whale moved away from the site in a definite, recognizable pattern of polar bear tracks. Further investigation revealed where said whale had been scratched and gnawed on. Just a little though. Maybe not quite rotten enough for the bears yet? Nevertheless, he/she sure greased up her paws and made some tracks! I'm not sure how long it will take before it really sinks in my brain that there are polar bears around. Like around me. Potentially at any time--especially away from town---which is where I was. Not to worry though, we approached the quintessential polar bear feasting site on foot while leaving the shotgun in the truck. You gotta have a little spice in life. I guess. Anyway, no polar bears spotted so it was all good.

    The second big adventure was returning to what was either a cabin or large rock. On the way out to the cache sites where locals bury walrus meat to ferment and cure or whatever---honestly, I don't know what the meat is doing under the piles of rock---but that's neither here nor there. The point is, on the way out to these sites, my partner noted that, "oh wow! Is that a cabin or a huge rock over there?" while pointing some distance to the horizon. I couldn't tell. It was resolved that we'd have to check it out on the way back because it was imperative to know if that was the biggest rock on the island. One must know these things you see. During our return drive, we stopped as close as we could get and began the walk to determine the size of this rock. It was NOT the biggest rock on the island and thus deemed, "a big waste of time" which I took to mean, had it actually been the largest rock on the island, our time would have been well spent.

    I also saw a rarely sighted gyrfalcon and the less uncommon peregrine falcon. Saw an all white arctic fox as well. Mind you, I would not have known these species had I not been told. I am useless in such situations.

    The location of the caches and the washed up whale carcass are "out of town" along the island's tip. I passed by the dump to get there which looked like a big ole smorgasbord of odds, ends, metal, and lumber that potentially could be very useful! Duly noted... Folks like to get "out of town" and go to their cabins. Town gets a bit stuffy and cramped. I will agree that the landscape is much more beautiful without staring at water tanks and broken bikes and trash strewn in ditches and the other usual detritus of humans living as we all do. However, what I found amusing was that near one set of caches there were about 5-8 cabins within slingshot distance from each other. So much for privacy on the land! lol.
    もっと詳しく

  • INTERNET!!!

    2017年9月13日, Igloolik ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Internet! Internet! Internet! Yayy! Well, internet lite really since it's only 20gb for the whole month. But, nonetheless, I can actually load this site and upload pics at 5:00pm!! I have no idea how far 20gb will take me, but considering that I can't stream any videos or movies, maybe I won't blow through it in 2 days. Back home, we had so much internet, I didn't even think about it. My phone had unlimited and well, the house had enough that we never went over...so, this 'internet-worry' is something fun to niggle my brain as I cruise through facebook......Jasmine, do you really need to look at ALL 34 pics someone posted? Nope. You get 2. Again, it's all perspective. I arrived in Igloolik mere months after they received 4G service. That's great timing right there!! Plus, I got to fly through the brand new airport in Iqualuit. All 6 gates were gleaming and ripe with new carpet smell. See, it's all coming up roses.

    Today was mostly moving related business....do a tenant walk-through with the governmental landlords, go by the internet provider office, grab some more necessities at the store, and pay security deposit for power to be put in my name. Such fun I tell ya.

    The shopping really reiterated that my brain is faulty. Yesterday, I was surprised at the chill and wind IN THE ARCTIC (and it wasn't actually cold at all by Arctic standards). Today, I was surprised by the prices in stores IN THE ARCTIC. Despite reading and being aware of the prices, it's still a shock. It's as if all three things that I fight against most in my life have coalesced in one place here: the Cold, the Dust, the Cost. Anyone who knows me knows that paying $28 for a 12-pack of Coke is gonna be the death of me. Anyone wanna send my frugal butt a Soda Stream??!! lolol.

    Getting the internet was a cute little story. I am beginning to see how traveling has really made this move a bit easier and hopefully continues to help me settle in and cope. Long-term, I'm not sure how things will go because when I've traveled, it's only been for at most, a few months at a time. So back to the internet. I had done research before moving and had emailed the company representative here in Igloolik twice before arriving. I got no replies. Today, I asked the housing folks doing my tenant walk-through where the internet place was. They told me, "it's not far, just past 3 way stop, it's up by RCMP and near Northern store in a dark blue building that looks like a house" (there are no street names signed here---don't know if they exist and just aren't signed or whether there are no street names in general). I don't know why I think I can find this place, but I figure I can. I do. It is blue and looks like a house. Plus, you know, it had a sign. Helpful. I walk in and ask about internet. The lady tells me the price. She tells me the monthly is $84. I say I read online that it's $80--what is the $4? She says completely deadpan and apologetically, "I don't know." I say, "is it tax?" "I don't know", comes the reply followed by, "are you going to buy?" Yep, yep I am. So, she gets the modem, no talking, no chit chat, no explanation, and starts setting it up. She logs in and creates an account, prints an invoice (which, even from across the desk, I can clearly see that $4/mo for the $80 subscription fee is labeled as taxes), and tells me I'm ready to go. The end. Yep, definitely like being in a foreign country. Ummmm....I just go home and plug this in?? Yall don't need to come set it up?? Where is my bill sent?? When is my bill due?? You know, just that other, useless stuff related to internet service provision. lolol. And, just like traveling, if you just go with it, it will work on out...
    もっと詳しく

  • Who knew the Arctic was cold?

    2017年9月12日, カナダ ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Actually, it was a bright blue sunny sky day with little wind and very warm temps. And I was still freezing. My body better get the memo and start adapting asap! It was a balmy 35 degrees F, 2-3° C. Really not bad... Which is why my reaction to it is so sad.

    My new house is quite nice on the inside considering the outsides. Because it is so dusty and dirty---literal dirt from the earth, not unclean--everything has that look. Plus, there is no grass or trees or any vegetation at all for that matter. As you can see from the pics, the beauty is in the land, not the structures themselves.

    Got my first sticker shocks with food prices. It was a very quick trip in and they closed soon after at 630pm! And I thought New West places closed eyes early! Yikes! I opted for the pound of ground chicken for $4 rather than the lb of ground beef at $13. Also, I bypassed the frozen skillet meal at $16. Got some frozen peas for $5.50 and iceburg lettuce for a steal at $3.50! Small italian dressing was $5. Nectarines were there! Twelve bucks a pound.

    All in all, I think my hands, ears, and face are gonna freeze off.
    もっと詳しく

  • Ottawa

    2017年9月11日, カナダ ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The day finally arrived, auspicious as it is on 9/11. I've known it for months and we all know that time never stops.
    There are so many unknowns for this adventure compared to previous shenanigans. This one is fo real, with real responsibility and duty. Yet, I know diddly squat about actually living up to that responsibility and duty, let alone actually living in the true North itself! To say there is some nervousness would be a smidge understated.
    But, enough about my scaredy cat musings, on to the actual move! The relocation folks came for my goods a few days ago and I wish I would have packed more. You can never have enough!
    Then, I learn today, that despite the paperwork provided to me outlining that they'll cover 6 checked bags, the airlines don't normally do 6 bags. Only 5. Uh, what? Thankfully, they made an exception and let me check my life into their hands. My ticket also wasn't booked with the notation that a pet was going to be along for the ride.
    The cat only got a half dose of drugs this morning so he spent a fair bit of time with his nose pressed to the mesh of his carrier while persistently trying to rip out the mesh with his claws. Once airborne and less movement around him, he settled pretty good. It also turns out that this hotel doesn't allow pets. I didn't know that. The relocation people booking my stay clearly didn't ask despite me being clear that I was bringing the furball. I actually forgot to mention him during check in and he stayed quiet so there you go. He's with me know, druggedly trying to pull himself on the bed.
    The little things that are happening are indicative of what's in store I think. My hotel says I'm booked through the 13th but my flight leaves a day earlier. Did they book extra nights at the hotel because of the high chance of weather-related cancellations? Or, was it just done wrong? Then, no one mentioned that I'd be unable to get into my house because my flight lands after the housing office closes. No one mentioned this to me or told me I'd need accommodation upon arrival at my final destination.
    I scheduled a tenant 'check-in' the day after I arrive with the person listed as such in an email. When I called to confirm this morning, I was told that was the wrong person I scheduled my check-in with. Wow. Okay. So, it's looking like a lot of things are not real here. Not true for 6 checked bags, not able to get in house, wrong people listed in my emails...
    Seems to be quite a few details just totally left out. This is gonna be fun!!
    Icing on the cake is my action packer tote apparently had a blow out during loading or unloading. Check the pic out. lolol.
    The good news is that I was able to store my baggage overnight at the airport so I didn't have to lug it to the hotel! AND, the baggage buggies are free! See, small things!
    Tomorrow is the big day of actual arrival in Igloolik.
    もっと詳しく

    旅行の開始
    2017年9月11日