Kakadu

We exchanged the ‘low croc risk’ pools in Litchfield for the ‘absolutely definitely crocs are here for sure’ rivers of Kakadu for four days. Dan was devoured*.

We bounced between Jabiru and Cooinda, the main northern ‘towns’ in the park. (‘Town’ means there are sufficient buildings from which to procure petrol and cold beer). Jabiru was built to serve the now-closed Ranger uranium mine. The surrounding area was called ‘The Sickness’ by the indigenous people because the uranium is right at the surface, poisoning the rivers and soil. The mine is supposed to be rehabilitated by 2026 but we saw it from the air and it looks… glowing.

At Burrunguy (Nourlangie Rock) we visited the Lightening Man, an aboriginal rock art of a local Dreaming (not pictured for cultural sensitivity reasons, you’ll have to make the trek yourselves). Later in the day, Lightning repaid the visit, and we had to scramble to get out of the pool (croc-free, chlorinated) and rescue our books as the late monsoon rains started.

Cooinda hosts the excellent Yellow Water cruise, through the billabongs to the misnamed South Alligator River. Some European muppet mistook the crocs for 'gators, dubbed a bunch of local rivers East, West and South Alligator, and the names stuck before anyone could correct him. We saw one (1) croc, and many many birds (Dan was very happy). Incidentally, 25 people have died by croc attack since they were protected from the leather trade in 1971. 21 of these were men, most of whom were snapped trying to reclaim fishing flies caught on detritus in the water. A fly costs about $1.50. One man was eaten by a crocodile with no front legs, which is pretty embarrassing to be honest.

We hopped on a short recreational flight out to Jim Jim Falls (inaccessible in the Wet season) and thanks to the rains the previous night we saw the falls at their fullest flow of the season so far. When the water really gets going the waterfall name changes to ‘Jim Jim and All His Mates.’

Heading back to Darwin for sleep in a real bed (!) and aircon (!). It’s been a sweaty few days. Any longer and we’ll go troppo.

*By mosquitoes, flies, and other flying-biting creatures.Read more