• To Stewart Island, a friend and Kiwis.

    21 februari, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We drove from our Invercargill B&B to Bluff for the ferry to Oban, on Stewart Island. In Bluff we passed old harbour -side “New Zealand Refrigeration Co.” and “New Zealand Shipping Co.” Buildings and I realised that these were almost certainly places that my dad’s grandfather had been familiar with in the days when he was involved with shipping frozen meat from here and the Pacific islands to the UK, last century.

    The one-hour crossing of the Foveaux Strait in a catamaran was fantastically rough with much sickness aboard, but constantly watching the horizon kept us unaffected. A few Sooty Shearwaters and a couple of probable Salvin’s Mollymawks seen on the journey but the view was mostly utterly obscured by the sea spray.

    After a very enjoyable meal with old Scottish friend and bird artist Derek Robertson, who happens to be travelling in NZ at the same time as us, he and I joined a night time Kiwi trip with the company “Beaks and Feathers”. We drove to the island’s aerodrome runway and walked in total darkness except for our guide’s infra-red torch.

    Rain fell a bit but generally the skies cleared and the night sky was fantastic. The Milky Way visible and Orion upside down compared with our view from home.

    At least 7 Kiwis performed and possibly 12 sightings all told. Birds of different ages probing the soft mossy ground for food. One walked over my foot. A brilliant experience. This was an “extra” for me as Derek had acquired a spare ticket. Our own expedition is planned for two days’ time. I enjoyed watching the spectacle of these incredible birds doing their thing.
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  • Dunedin to Invercargil

    19 februari, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Up early-ish for a quick breakfast and off to the Northern Royal Albatross colony at the end of the Otago Peninsular - or so we thought. The interpretation centre didn’t open until 10:15 and the rather expensive tours were booked up. Never mind though; we found ourselves in the car park, in a colony of Red-billed Gulls, which included many, many dead ones, though plenty alive still and loads of young.

    A walk to a nearby vantage point and a setup of the scope revealed plenty of interest, especially a few areas of birds’ feeding frenzies where krill or small fishes were on the sea’s surface attracting 1000’s of seabirds. Most were two species of gull but there were White-fronted Terns, a few Sooty Shearwaters and about 6 Royal Albatrosses. Huge birds and wonderful in flight. Job done!

    Then driving south to Curio Bay along the route through the Catlins, which were quite scenic with amazing undulating countryside and some areas of native forest but we have decided that much of the NZ we have seen so far is one huge stock farm, almost nothing but grass and fodder crops and more sheep and cattle than I’ve ever seen before. It must have been incredible though, and so different, when the first indigenous peoples arrived. Judging by the high number of roadkill Possums we saw, these non-natives must be abundant. We just missed running over a Stoat - another present from the later colonisers.

    Curio Bay yielded views of the rounded dorsal fins and grey backs of about 10 Hector’s Dolphins. Quite a highlight. Then on to our third Air B&B, near Invercargill, within striking distance of our ferry to Stewart Island tomorrow.

    Dark about 21:00hrs - like being at home in our summer! The television is on - it’s Jamie Oliver doing something with harissa. No escape, even here!
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  • South to the Otago Peninsular

    18 februari, Nya Zeeland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We picked up the X-Trail rental vehicle in Christchurch and, in spite of initially insoluble satnav trouble made it easily to our first air B and B at Willowby, near Ashburton.
    Not very pretty countryside but interesting for all that. Green fields with incredibly high stocking rates of dairy cattle and sheep, the animals presumably moved almost daily. Windbreak hedges of conifer species up to about 8m tall. Plenty of European birds - abundant House Sparrows and also Greenfinches and Goldfinches and Starlings. Swamp Harriers seen frequently along the road, and Masked Lapwings in some arable fields as well as a few pairs of Paradise Shelducks.

    We were greeted at our B and B by a six-year old lad on his little bike, who was a dead ringer for Ke Huy Quan when he was in the Goonies. He very much made himself at home in our lodge, jumping on the bed, telling us the toilet roll was for “ wiping our butts” and showing us proudly how he could park his bike using a pedal as a stand. A nice boy but we had to get rid of him. We never saw him again, nor anyone else.

    Awoke to loud birdsong including melodious Auzzie Magpies - introduced non-natives, like so many things here.

    On Day 2 we continued to Dunedin via Katiki Point south of Oamaru where we waited hopefully for nesting Yellow-eyed Penguins to return from the ocean to feed their young. We waited in vain but had great fun with the colony of Fur Seals there and also met a Wrybill Bird Tour group led by Matt Jones, an acquaintance from Rick’s recent trip to PNG.

    Air B and B in Broad Bay along the north shore of the Otago Peninsular
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  • Bergen and home

    9 maj 2025, Skottland ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    A lovely day spent exploring Bergen on foot and needing to buy something small for the odd family member. Prices so high compared to what we are used to at home that nothing seemed good or best value. We did get a few things though.
    Up to a fabulous viewpoint on the funicular railway which did seem like money quite well spent. We watched what I think was an Elk for a long time but I’m still confused by names and distribution of these animals. The name seems to be interchangeable for moose and I think it may be the same as the American Wapiti.
    Then bus to the airport and a Wideroe flight to Aberdeen, meeting the UK shore near to Loch of Strathbeg.
    Car retrieved from the car park and then we knew we were back on familiar territory when a drinks can was chucked out of the window of the car in front. Such a contrast with the cleanliness of the Nordic countries where such national pride is generally obvious.
    Nevertheless, always good to be home with the usual jobs piled up and waiting for us. Sea Eagles and Orcas wonderful but receding memories. Thumbs up for Norway and its people!
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  • A bit of bother in Bergen

    8 maj 2025, Norge ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    On berthing at Bergen we found a “hop on hop off” city tour bus which we took to our air B and B in a beautiful part of the city close to the shore. Unfortunately the place was coated in more dust than I have ever seen in a house, causing me the wheeze and sneeze and the bedding left much to be desired too so we cancelled, got a refund and booked the Scandic City in town. An easy bus ride and so much better.
    The evening was spent enjoying the fantastic sights and sounds of Bergen and the World Heritage Site of the old Hanseatic port.
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  • Kristiansund and beyond

    8 maj 2025, Norge ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Kristiansund was apparently the Clipfisk or Stockfish capital of Norway and has a statue of a woman holding one such fish. She seems to be the emblem of the place too, as I saw her on a rather nice iron drain cover.
    We had a two hour stop here and I, RDG, took a quick walk looking for birds in trees and bushes. A few Chiffchaffs sang, there was one male Blackcap and a few Greenfinches flew over, but little else. Pleasant to get fresh and cold air after the rather dry but comfortably warm interior of the boat.
    The harbour is very neatly tucked into a sheltered part of one of the three islands that house the city.
    The journey thereafter continued south, calm as ever but through some rain and poor visibility. A quite amazing scatter of very low islands to our west while high but snow-free hills were to the east.
    We were unaware of three brief stops through the night and having packed and then enjoyed a final on-board breakfast, Bergen is our next and final port of call in a few hours’ time.
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  • Trondheim south to Kristiansund

    7 maj 2025, Norge ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    After a superb 9-course meal with some excellent wine in the fine dining restaurant last night we slept a little fitfully and awoke to Beverly’s significant birthday as we berthed in Trondheim. A pre-breakfast coach tour of the city and its Cathedral followed. Typically Scandinavian, it was litter-free, with many people on foot and cycling and all looking fit and slim. Beautiful coloured and generally wooden houses with also some tasteful architecture.
    The cathedral, called the “Nidaros Cathedral” has been restored over more than a century and is impressive.
    More affecting for me, RDG, was seeing the “brutalist” concrete world war 2 submarine bunkers built by the Germans.
    Chiffchaffs and Fieldfares were seen in the park areas and many cowslips were in flower. Trees coming into leaf, and snow only present on far inland mountains.
    Rejoined Capella for breakfast and to continue south through wider seas and lower scattered islands than we had become used to in the north.
    Kristiansund ahead - the home town of the last visitor I spoke to at Doune Castle a few days ago.
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  • Crossing the Arctic Circle

    6 maj 2025, Norge ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    A quiet day for us without formal expeditions. A smooth journey in lovely weather where absolutely no movement of the boat could be detected with eyes closed. We crossed the latitude of the Arctic Circle at about 08:45. RDG carried on eating breakfast while Beverly went out and photographed the on-land marker.
    Bodo had been visited for an hour during the small hours but neither of us surfaced from our deep slumbers to notice it. Five more ports are on today’s agenda and we are now at the penultimate, Bronnoysund, where we have been able to walk about for nearly two hours. A few birds about - White Wagtail, Fieldfare and Chiffchaff newly arrived from the south and nicest of all, a Black Guillemot diving just below us in the harbour. These birds are very common up here.
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  • Tromso and the Lofotens

    5 maj 2025, Norge ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    A very beautifully sung (tenor) and played (flute, piano and organ) midnight concert in Tromso last night but in the Old Cathedral and not the famous new one.
    Today we awoke in Harstad and threaded our way through fjords to Sortland, Stockmarkness and Svolaer from where we took a bus through the Lofotens. What a place to have lived and made a living in days gone by - no wonder the Vikings invaded mellow and fertile Orkney and beyond!
    Interesting art gallery and museum in Henningsvaer but the highlight was (after photographing drying cod and identifying Redwing by its very unfamiliar call) watching a pod of about 10 Orcas of all ages hunting fish just offshore. Two tall dorsal finned bulls, two or three full-sized females and the rest smaller juveniles.
    Capella was rejoined at Stamsund halfway down the Lofotens chain and we are now on our way to Bodo and beyond. Still north of the Arctic Circle but not for much longer…
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  • Hammerfest to Tromso

    4 maj 2025, Norge ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Hammerfest is Norway’s most northerly town,almost totally destroyed during WWII. Great to leave the boat here for an hour of fresh air with Snow Buntings thronging the houses like sparrows. Colourful houses, typical of Norway, makes many of Scotland’s dwellings seem very dreary.
    Several short stops later and we are on our way to Tromsø where we will visit its famous “new” cathedral for midnight music.
    Bird highlight of the day, in spite of lovely buntings, was a third winter Iceland Gull with Herring Gulls at Oksfjord.
    We have just passed sister ship Havila Pollux on her way north (more easterly really). Much sounding of horns…
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  • Kirkenes to Hammerfest

    4 maj 2025, Norge ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    First leg of the journey north and west via seven small ports including Vardo, Norway’s easternmost town. NW Russia visible as we went. A few whale blows seen ahead of the vessel and one good view of a long back and small dorsal fin, possibly a full-sized Minke. Before departure, while RDG chilled with coffee and binoculars on board, Beverly met dogs, pups, reindeer and sleighs and went for a ride. She also visited the Ice Hotel nearby.
    The ship Capella, with electric motors, moves with almost total silence and no vibration, and the gentle movement through the waves is very conducive to sleep.
    No sign of the much-wanted Steller’s Eider but three Shelducks May have been a good record this far north and a cliffy island near Vardo was thronged with thousands of Common Guillemots and a few Puffins. Bev’s favourite birds have been the Long-tailed Ducks, a few of which have flown close by the boat.
    We are due in Hammerfest in an hour and will have time for a wander. Some stops have been for just 15 minutes.
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  • Aberdeen to Kirkenes

    2 maj 2025, Norge ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    Three flights with Wideroe via Bergen and Tromso. It’s still winter up here at the top of Norway. Much snow still present with sparse birch forest. Everything (food, alcohol and taxi) as expensive as expected but so different from home that it’s really exciting to be here.
    There will be 24 hrs of daylight with the sun only just below the horizon between about 21:00hrs and 02:00hr.
    Currently abed and watching a programme about the making of the series, “Vera”, based on the books written by Ann Cleeves, wife of much-missed birder, the late Tim Cleeves.
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  • Overview

    2 maj 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Find Penguins not a great success this time owing the the remoteness of our destinations (Northern Assam, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh and Manipur) and lack of signal. Given that each day began well before dawn and ended in the dark there was little time or inclination to write daily reports in my fairly exhausted state.
    This was a hard core birding trip with the main goals usually very hard to see and range-restricted species such as Gould’s Shortwing and the recently discovered Bugun Liocichla. Suffice to say that we seem to have had much greater success than the one or two other bird groups in the area because of the phenomenal bird finding skills of our guide, Shashank. Our trip list was around 470 species of which maybe 400 were new to me.
    A few good mammals too including a couple of rare mountain goat species, one Tiger relaxing on a sandbar and a few Hoolock experiences in tall forest areas. These are noisy gibbons. Rather few photos taken by me but I hope for some shares from other members of the group.
    Apart from wildlife, the almost vertical hillside forests of the Mishmi Hills, the rocky Himalayan terrain near the Chinese border, and the vast Brahmaputra River (9km wide where we crossed it) were landscape highlights.
    Wonderful self sufficient and self contained mountain tribal people were most impressive and with beautiful features. Bamboo a fantastic versatile building material used throughout - together with much corrugated iron.
    What a tame and safe place the UK is! I’m not expecting cattle, dogs, goats, piles of building materials, landslides, rockfalls or wandering people and bicycles to block our passage on the motorway between Edinburgh and home, or cars and cyclists coming at us on the wrong carriageway! We have rules here but they seem to be totally absent in India - yet there was never and accident of any sort, though hundreds of what we would consider to be near misses!
    Many thanks to Andy Clements for his digiscoped images.
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  • Expedition nearly over!

    25 april 2024, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    At last enough of a signal to send a post written near the start of the trip! Now too tired to send detail of days missed but suffice to say that I’ve about 300 new species on my bird list and have been amazed and intrigued by the chaos that is India. Up at 3 or 4 every day and out until dark. Then meal and bed around 8pm. A selection of photos attached.Läs mer

  • Manipur to Nagaland to Assam

    14 april 2024, Indien ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    An update after a few days without internet. Two incredibly exciting long road journeys, first to the village of Khonoma in Nagaland where we stayed in a home stay run by incredibly friendly people. Hardly a man visible in this narrow village perched on high ground with vertical drops on both sides. Firewood stacks everywhere and the forested hills largely managed for this commodity, ancient planted alders coppiced for this purpose. Women working in the terraced fields, clearing ditches with machetes and carrying heavy loads of wood and foraged green stuffs for human consumption.
    The second drive, having spent two days there, was to the Kasiranga national park where we are a guest house for the night, with wonderful food and a warm water shower - something not present at the home stay. There it was buckets and cold water. And hard beds - but lovely food.
    Much of both journeys was spent on the wrong side of the road, passing slower vehicles (often military) and weaving amongst goats and cows. Seems incredibly risky but no mishaps experienced or observed.
    Much produce for sale at the roadside, including pigs and chickens being butchered for buyers on site. Most of the Assam roads were tarmaced but long stretches of the Nagaland highways were incredibly rough. Rockfalls closed the opposite carriageway for quite a stretch today but no problem; everything on that side just swapped to our side and drove against the flow. No signs or warnings and no head on collisions.
    As for birds, we have seen almost everything hoped for but with very hard work and very early mornings. Highlights for me have included Assam Laughingthrush, a real beauty and very local but to be honest, I’ve seen so many new species compared to the rest of the group that I don’t mind missing out on specialities that they “need” or getting poor views of some birds.
    This morning, still in Khonoma area, while failing in our last attempt to see Spot-breasted Laughingthrush, we found a legless lizard like our Slow-worm which was the high point of of our guide’s day.
    An afternoon drive in the national park produced the ultra-rare Finn’s Weaver but I enjoyed the many Indian Rhinoceroses and wild elephants just as much.
    So much more to say, but this is enough!
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  • A second stab at Indian Grass-bird

    11 april 2024, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Birdwise, enough to say for most followers that I added another 30 or so to my list and had fabulous views of the very hard to nail down Indian Grass-bird. But perhaps an equally life-enhancing experience was the travel to the marshes in our convoy of three SUVs. No apparent road rules apart from honk to say we’re here and we will be forcing you to change course, even if that risks you hitting a goat, a dog, a cow, a tuk-tuk or a beautifully dressed woman carrying her shopping.
    Also the drive, full of interest: markets, roadside sellers of dusty fruit and veg, workers in the fields with all sorts of hand tools - some in conical sun hats, many rather nice looking dogs - at least one per roadside vendor and a considerable police/military presence in the towns.
    Incredibly rough dirt tracks causing the vehicle to buck about have proved wonderful physio for my back which is now more supple than it’s been for years - so I no longer need a shoe horn to get my boots on.
    Two slight annoyances: experienced observers have been seeing quite a few species that I need but have not called them out. And one our vehicles stopped and photographed a 6’ long and 4” thick trackside snake without communicating. Sorry Lewis - I know you’d have liked a photo! It was a chequered keelback.
    So, there is a problem caused by the group being split between three vehicles and not being in proper contact with each other. Nevertheless an amazing day.
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  • Thirty-something new birds before 8am.

    11 april 2024, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A grassland and wetland morning, out by 4am in the cool when birds are most active. Extremely rural area with many people working in the fields, including cutting reeds and similar for cattle feed. Rare and localised Indian Grassbird and Black-breasted Parrotbill seen, amongst many other nice things.
    Back at the hotel around 10 am for a rest before visiting the same areas again so others can get views of the grassbird, as they failed in the morning.
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  • Imphal, Yellow-throated Laughing Thrush

    10 april 2024, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    One of our main target species under our belts and so rare it thrilled all our group members. But, given that every bird here is new for me they all have more or less equal value to me, so Long-tailed Shrike and Pied Harrier were my “birds of the day”. Fantastic frenzy of traffic, cattle, horses, tuk-tuks and hooting of horns as we drove through the town.Läs mer

  • It starts.

    9 april 2024, England ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Easy travel from Doune to Edinburgh; Edinburgh to Heathrow and now waiting to board the Virgin Atlantic aircraft “Fearless Lady” for Delhi. There will be a 10 hour or so wait there for our connection to Imphal but I’m sure we’ll cope.
    Now about an hour out of Delhi after a flight during which the time did not drag. The plane is less than half full so plenty of extra food and drink available.
    Final notification: we have about nine hours to wait before our next flight to Imphal - but tomorrow will bring the first exciting birds and the coming together of our group of seven.
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  • Always hopeful

    5 april 2024, Skottland ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    Four days to go and I’m obviously far too keen! Packed already, including with things I still need here - like wellies and other waterproofs, not to mention bins and scope.
    Fantasising about all sorts of Indian birds including members of my generally least favourite group - the game birds. So here’s a photo of Temminck’s Tragopan on Flickr Creative Commons courtesy of Keith Murdock.Läs mer

  • One week to go

    2 april 2024, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Thinking about packing now - for comfortable birding in varied weather conditions. What to include? What to leave out? Wellies? Imodium? Mozzie net? Lightweight stool? Umbrella? Crocs?

  • Homeward bound

    20 mars 2024, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    A two hour “navigation”, as they’d call it in Galapagos, from Port Ellen to Kennacraig. Flat calm and parties of auks feeding all over the place relatively close to Islay. Also more divers than I’ve ever seen, with probably tens of Great Northerns and Red-throateds, and a handful of Black-throateds. Most of them in Loch Tarbert. Watched a Hen Harrier making its way to Islay some time after we left harbour but still no White-tailed Eagles in spite of perfect eagle conditions.Läs mer

  • Too much whisky

    19 mars 2024, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Not a birding day in spite of the best weather yet. A tour of the Bruichladdich distillery was much more engaging than I expected and at daughter’s long-distance insistence I spent more on a bottle of whisky than I ever had before - probably because my judgement was clouded by the tasting session. Anyway, nice to have a full unopened bottle to look forward to.
    Two more leg-ringed Choughs seen feeding in a cattle field were the Birdy highlight of the day. I’ve gone the whole week without seeing an eagle, which is a bit frustrating.
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  • Ardnave Point for Choughs

    18 mars 2024, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    After a fine walk to the west on Machir beach and a highly recommended visit for coffee, lunch and the purchase of some very fine whisky at the Kilchoman distillery for an upcoming ‘brothers long weekend’ on Skye, three of us drove to Ardnave Point in the hope of finding Choughs - those crow relatives with red feet and red downcurved bills. A wonderful male Hen Harrier performed for us on the way.
    A longish walk in heavier and heavier rain and increasing wind did not reduce the pleasure of seeing 24 Choughs probing the soil for invertebrates and showing off their glossy blue-black plumage. Many sported multiple colour rings - no doubt for valuable research reasons but it made them look a bit ‘manhandled’. I took a phone photo but not worth it really.
    Huge numbers of Grey Seals hauled out on Nave Island opposite the headland. Then back to the caravan and snug warmth.
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  • A day on the Oa

    18 mars 2024, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    A party of five drove to the Oa - a cliffs bulbous peninsular, good for raptor species. Fog was a problem for much of the time and no eagles performed for us. We did see a female Hen Harrier and had a very brief view of a probable Merlin from the vehicle on the way. The fog cleared occasionally to give glimpses of impressive cliffs.
    Birdy highlight was about 20 Twite, some males sporting lovely pink rumps and several birds also sporting a mixture of colour rings on their tarsi. Good, distinctive calls as well.
    More Cullen skink in Port Ellen followed and then a scenic drive north checking bays for divers etc. Must have seen a total of 15 Great Northerns and some views of very smart foraging Red-breasted Mergansers. Rock Doves gave good views - really lovely birds in comparison with their feral relatives and we watched a relaxed foraging otter diving amongst the rocks and seaweed.
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