Wild N E India

April - May 2024
A 24-day adventure by Big Tortoises Read more
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  • 3countries
  • 24days
  • 44photos
  • 2videos
  • 18.1kkilometers
  • 8.9kkilometers
  • One week to go

    April 2 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Thinking about packing now - for comfortable birding in varied weather conditions. What to include? What to leave out? Wellies? Imodium? Mozzie net? Lightweight stool? Umbrella? Crocs?

  • Always hopeful

    April 5 in Scotland ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    Four days to go and I’m obviously far too keen! Packed already, including with things I still need here - like wellies and other waterproofs, not to mention bins and scope.
    Fantasising about all sorts of Indian birds including members of my generally least favourite group - the game birds. So here’s a photo of Temminck’s Tragopan on Flickr Creative Commons courtesy of Keith Murdock.Read more

  • Day 1

    It starts.

    April 9 in England ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Easy travel from Doune to Edinburgh; Edinburgh to Heathrow and now waiting to board the Virgin Atlantic aircraft “Fearless Lady” for Delhi. There will be a 10 hour or so wait there for our connection to Imphal but I’m sure we’ll cope.
    Now about an hour out of Delhi after a flight during which the time did not drag. The plane is less than half full so plenty of extra food and drink available.
    Final notification: we have about nine hours to wait before our next flight to Imphal - but tomorrow will bring the first exciting birds and the coming together of our group of seven.
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  • Day 2

    Imphal, Yellow-throated Laughing Thrush

    April 10 in India ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    One of our main target species under our belts and so rare it thrilled all our group members. But, given that every bird here is new for me they all have more or less equal value to me, so Long-tailed Shrike and Pied Harrier were my “birds of the day”. Fantastic frenzy of traffic, cattle, horses, tuk-tuks and hooting of horns as we drove through the town.Read more

  • Day 3

    Thirty-something new birds before 8am.

    April 11 in India ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A grassland and wetland morning, out by 4am in the cool when birds are most active. Extremely rural area with many people working in the fields, including cutting reeds and similar for cattle feed. Rare and localised Indian Grassbird and Black-breasted Parrotbill seen, amongst many other nice things.
    Back at the hotel around 10 am for a rest before visiting the same areas again so others can get views of the grassbird, as they failed in the morning.
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  • Day 3

    A second stab at Indian Grass-bird

    April 11 in India ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Birdwise, enough to say for most followers that I added another 30 or so to my list and had fabulous views of the very hard to nail down Indian Grass-bird. But perhaps an equally life-enhancing experience was the travel to the marshes in our convoy of three SUVs. No apparent road rules apart from honk to say we’re here and we will be forcing you to change course, even if that risks you hitting a goat, a dog, a cow, a tuk-tuk or a beautifully dressed woman carrying her shopping.
    Also the drive, full of interest: markets, roadside sellers of dusty fruit and veg, workers in the fields with all sorts of hand tools - some in conical sun hats, many rather nice looking dogs - at least one per roadside vendor and a considerable police/military presence in the towns.
    Incredibly rough dirt tracks causing the vehicle to buck about have proved wonderful physio for my back which is now more supple than it’s been for years - so I no longer need a shoe horn to get my boots on.
    Two slight annoyances: experienced observers have been seeing quite a few species that I need but have not called them out. And one our vehicles stopped and photographed a 6’ long and 4” thick trackside snake without communicating. Sorry Lewis - I know you’d have liked a photo! It was a chequered keelback.
    So, there is a problem caused by the group being split between three vehicles and not being in proper contact with each other. Nevertheless an amazing day.
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  • Day 6

    Manipur to Nagaland to Assam

    April 14 in India ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    An update after a few days without internet. Two incredibly exciting long road journeys, first to the village of Khonoma in Nagaland where we stayed in a home stay run by incredibly friendly people. Hardly a man visible in this narrow village perched on high ground with vertical drops on both sides. Firewood stacks everywhere and the forested hills largely managed for this commodity, ancient planted alders coppiced for this purpose. Women working in the terraced fields, clearing ditches with machetes and carrying heavy loads of wood and foraged green stuffs for human consumption.
    The second drive, having spent two days there, was to the Kasiranga national park where we are a guest house for the night, with wonderful food and a warm water shower - something not present at the home stay. There it was buckets and cold water. And hard beds - but lovely food.
    Much of both journeys was spent on the wrong side of the road, passing slower vehicles (often military) and weaving amongst goats and cows. Seems incredibly risky but no mishaps experienced or observed.
    Much produce for sale at the roadside, including pigs and chickens being butchered for buyers on site. Most of the Assam roads were tarmaced but long stretches of the Nagaland highways were incredibly rough. Rockfalls closed the opposite carriageway for quite a stretch today but no problem; everything on that side just swapped to our side and drove against the flow. No signs or warnings and no head on collisions.
    As for birds, we have seen almost everything hoped for but with very hard work and very early mornings. Highlights for me have included Assam Laughingthrush, a real beauty and very local but to be honest, I’ve seen so many new species compared to the rest of the group that I don’t mind missing out on specialities that they “need” or getting poor views of some birds.
    This morning, still in Khonoma area, while failing in our last attempt to see Spot-breasted Laughingthrush, we found a legless lizard like our Slow-worm which was the high point of of our guide’s day.
    An afternoon drive in the national park produced the ultra-rare Finn’s Weaver but I enjoyed the many Indian Rhinoceroses and wild elephants just as much.
    So much more to say, but this is enough!
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  • Day 17

    Expedition nearly over!

    April 25 ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    At last enough of a signal to send a post written near the start of the trip! Now too tired to send detail of days missed but suffice to say that I’ve about 300 new species on my bird list and have been amazed and intrigued by the chaos that is India. Up at 3 or 4 every day and out until dark. Then meal and bed around 8pm. A selection of photos attached.Read more

  • Day 24

    Overview

    Yesterday in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Find Penguins not a great success this time owing the the remoteness of our destinations (Northern Assam, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh and Manipur) and lack of signal. Given that each day began well before dawn and ended in the dark there was little time or inclination to write daily reports in my fairly exhausted state.
    This was a hard core birding trip with the main goals usually very hard to see and range-restricted species such as Gould’s Shortwing and the recently discovered Bugun Liocichla. Suffice to say that we seem to have had much greater success than the one or two other bird groups in the area because of the phenomenal bird finding skills of our guide, Shashank. Our trip list was around 470 species of which maybe 400 were new to me.
    A few good mammals too including a couple of rare mountain goat species, one Tiger relaxing on a sandbar and a few Hoolock experiences in tall forest areas. These are noisy gibbons. Rather few photos taken by me but I hope for some shares from other members of the group.
    Apart from wildlife, the almost vertical hillside forests of the Mishmi Hills, the rocky Himalayan terrain near the Chinese border, and the vast Brahmaputra River (9km wide where we crossed it) were landscape highlights.
    Wonderful self sufficient and self contained mountain tribal people were most impressive and with beautiful features. Bamboo a fantastic versatile building material used throughout - together with much corrugated iron.
    What a tame and safe place the UK is! I’m not expecting cattle, dogs, goats, piles of building materials, landslides, rockfalls or wandering people and bicycles to block our passage on the motorway between Edinburgh and home, or cars and cyclists coming at us on the wrong carriageway! We have rules here but they seem to be totally absent in India - yet there was never and accident of any sort, though hundreds of what we would consider to be near misses!
    Many thanks to Andy Clements for his digiscoped images.
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