• Helene Rimberg
  • Helene Rimberg

The Grand Adventure

A bike trip with no end Read more
  • A return to craggy peaks

    March 4, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Cold morning gave way to a beautiful sunny day. Though the ripio was much better for the most part, the washboards and loose gravel presented challenges. Found ourselves surrounded by trees - both along the road and up the mountains. Another lovely campsite by a ‘noisy’ river.Read more

  • The final stretch

    March 5, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Day starts with a very steep and long climb. Waterfalls and rushing rivers surround us as we climb. A long descent leads to the ferry terminal at Puerto Yungay. And a 2 1/2 hour wait until the next one. Light rain and sun breaks finally gives way to constant rain as we board. An hour later we continue along the Carretera. Rain increases as we arrive at a campground with no host. Let ourselves in to the cyclist Refugio and make camp.Read more

  • Glaciers and waterfalls

    March 6, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Though it poured during the night, the morning was relatively dry. Nice warm up on flat gravel before embarking upon our climbs. Tough going but glaciers towering above us created many roadside waterfalls. Arrive at Refugio Racies, a wonderfully warm oasis.Read more

  • We made it!

    March 7, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    With only 30 kilometers left we slept in and had a late start. Mostly dry, and clear skies afforded great views as we wound our way through the valley to Villa O’Higgins - el fin de la Carretera Austral. It was a tough and amazing route and I am glad to be done! Stayed in a little hut and out for dinner and beer!Read more

  • Villa O’Higgins

    March 8, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Rainy night but stayed warm and dry in our pod. Wandered around in the cold rain in the little town looking for a bike repair store as my bike took some abuse on the ripio. No luck. Did our best to round up food from depleted stores. Finalize plan to take the bus back to Puerto Yungay to catch the ferry to Puerto Natales. Dine again at the nearby cerveceria.Read more

  • The bike is not the only means of travel

    March 9, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Early morning to catch 7:30 bus. Still dark as we walk ourselves to the bus stop. Very bumpy 3 hour journey over the road that it took us 2 + days to ride. After crossing on the small ferry, hang out in the shelter, watching our bigger ferry and the smaller one switch places on the dock. Chaos ensues as they board our ferry but we get on and settle in for almost 2 days.Read more

  • On da boat

    March 11, 2024, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Long and fairly uncomfortable night. Breakfast (and all subsequent meals) is not very tasty or nutritious but we have snacks. Spend the day staring at the horizon, waterfalls and towering peaks alongside us. Do a ‘tour’ around a shipwreck and make a port stop in Puerto Eden - though we can go no further than dock. Eat some pastries and reboard. Partial clearing affords colorful views and rainbows.Read more

  • Back to dry land

    March 11, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Another cramped night but a pretty morning makes up for it. Spend the day, again, moving between outside to see the sights and inside to stay warm. Manuever through very narrow channels and arrive in Puerto Natales. Check in to our hostel and out for a high end lamb dinnerRead more

  • Ruta del fin del mundo

    March 13, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    With the help of a bus, jumped past a rather stark and dangerous road. Headed east with a nice tailwind. Cruised along, spotting Rheas (like Emus) and Guanacos (like alpacas). Enjoyed a nice lunch spot in a Refugio and was stopped by a very large herd of sheep shutting down the road. After 100kms stopped for the night at another lovely Refugio.Read more

  • Hola tierra del fuego

    March 14, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    A sunny and windy morning- fortunately blowing in our direction. Quickly make it to ferry dock only to miss one by minutes. Wait for the next one and cross the Bahia Azul. Wind becomes more variable and skies open up a bit. After getting what food we could at tiny store fight the wind to our next Refugio. Attempt a fire but get smoked out. Chilly night.Read more

  • Hola Argentina

    March 15, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Beautiful and frigid morning. Head out into crosswinds that become intermittent headwinds (wind is the foe down here). Not much around besides sheep and guanacos. Finally make it to junction and after a quick lunch, turn east with the wind. Fly to Argentina. Clear customs on both sides and settle into warm waiting area for the night.Read more

  • Along the Atlantic

    March 16, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Fortunately for us the westerly wind had a northern influence so we were treated to a tail wind. Road quickly through flat and rather barren land. Surprised by the presence of oil drilling. Made it to Rio Grande in good time. Checked into our rather grand apartment. Dinner and gelato ended our day.Read more

  • Rio Grande

    March 17, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    With the wind howling in the wrong direction, opted to stay in comfort for another day. Filled the day with projects and a short walk to see the ocean.

  • Penultimate day

    March 18, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Sun is shining, it is chilly but the winds are quiet. Sadly lose all our early start energy on a dirt road indicated by Komoot that goes nowhere. Finally get to the main road and are rewarded with guanaco and fox sightings. Also have a re-emergence of trees and hills. Long day but make it to Tolhuin and find the casa de ciclistas - aka Union Bakery. Set up amongst large bags of flour but stay warm and cozy.Read more

  • Fin del mundo

    March 19, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Early start as big day ahead of us. Quite chilly as we head out of town. Minimal wind to contend with but no assistance either. Road quickly turns to follow vey large lake surrounded by mountains. Make good time in the sunshine and find ourselves at the pass. Scenic lunch spot before diving back down. Quite chilly. More ups and downs amongst beautiful scenery. Arrive in Ushaia quite cold and tired but happy to be there.Read more

  • Ushaia

    March 20, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Day spent getting bus tickets and panicking that we needed to box bikes for bus trip. Turns out we don’t. Visited the signs we missed yesterday, found the local brewery and had a nice dinner our.

  • Tierra del Fuego National park

    March 21, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Though we managed to get ourselves to our boat departure point nice and early, learned that they couldn’t guarantee we’d get to the penguin island because of wind. Opted to postpone until tomorrow and instead took a nice hike in the Tierra del Fuego National Park.Read more

  • FOUND: PENGUINS

    March 22, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Winds much calmer as we again trek down to the port. Board the catamaran - 5 hermanos. Stop first by a small island to admire the sea lions and cormorants. Pass the lighthouse that used to be the most southern one in the world. Caught glimpses of seals and dolphins swimming by the boat. And then we found them - penguins 🐧!!!! Though we could only watch them from the boat - they put on quite the show. Returned to the port and spent the rest of the day packing up. Another seafood dinner out and gelato.Read more

  • Retracing our steps

    March 23, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Clear and cold as we make our way to the bus stop. Take our departure pictures (too tired and cold to do this when we came in). Manage to wedge our bikes in without having g to do too much. Settle in for 8 hours, covering what we had done in 6 days on bikes. Arrive in Punta Arenas without breaking a sweat. Manage to quickly secure bike boxes and find our hostel.Read more

  • Packing day

    March 25, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Almost like magic, 2 big bike boxes showed up at our hostel. Afternoon spent preparing the bikes and packing them up. Out for a pizza dinner - not bad for Chile.

  • Walking in circles

    March 26, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    With everything packed and a late night flight - ventured through Punta Arenas with a minimal agenda. Ate brunch, did some last minute shopping and sat in the sun. Caught a ride from our host to the airport and quickly checked in.Read more

  • Migrating north

    March 27, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    And after 2 short flights we land in Antofogasta. Put ourselves together and head south. Path varies between lovely cycle path and uneven sidewalk. Get groceries and finish the ride to our oceanfront apartment. Hand out on the beach, enjoying the waves and catching up on sleepRead more

  • Antofagasta

    March 28, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Relatively lazy day. Eventually caught a bus back into town. Checked out hectic fish market, buying albacore and some ceviche. Load up on groceries and bus it back. Beach walk and nice dinner