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Cycling Scandinavia 2016
  • Owen Peters

Cycling Scandinavia 2016

28-päiväinen seikkaillu — Owen Lue lisää
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  • Matkan aloitus
    10. toukokuuta 2016
    Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Prologue

    11. toukokuuta 2016, Englanti ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    While we fly to Alta, here are some photos from the training (such as it was) in the UK - various 40-60 mile trips, with more and more bike gear being stacked on each time.

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    Day 1b - Flying to Alta

    12. toukokuuta 2016, Norja ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    3 Flights in a day! Manchester-Oslo-Tromso-Alta.

    Trains, planes and automobiles!

    ...with bikes in tow.

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 1 - Arriving in Alta

    12. toukokuuta 2016, Norja ⋅ 🌬 4 °C

    We're here...and tomorrow we re-build the bikes.

    (it's midnight and it's still light outside)

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    Day 2 - Around Alta

    13. toukokuuta 2016, Norja ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    A day of re-building bikes and stocking up on food. Camping and cooking in the wild for the next two days!

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    Day 3 - Cycling Calamity and Climbing

    14. toukokuuta 2016, Norja ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    1st day cycling was a mix of comical incompetence and big payoffs.

    We left the hotel at 1, going the wrong way 3 times before finally finding our way out an hour later.

    I fell off within the first hour, damaging myself and the bike (neither beyond repair)

    After that it looked up (in all senses) as we climbed a mountain beside river rapids in a canyon.

    I Inadvertently herded 30 reindeer, as they panicked at the site of me and ran beside my bike, looking for a way of the road.

    Just as energy was giving out, a Cafe sign appeared on the horizon and there we met a Ukrainian student so interested in our British-ness (go figure) made us Ukrainian stew and fresh coffee for free (a cafetiere, no less!)

    Now, after a camping cooker dinner, we have our first night of camping - tuck in beside a closed winter lodge.

    Good stuff!    Lue lisää

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    Day 4 - Snow, Wind and Reindeer Jerky

    15. toukokuuta 2016, Norja ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    After waking from the first night of wild camping, (amongst snow outside a closed winter lodge in Masi) we woke roughly (first at 4am, then at 9am - the light was equally bright). Then started a cloudy, windy, bone chilling ride to Kautokeino, that included a stop in a Sami shop that included such luxuries as an indoor toilet, tap water and Reindeer Jerky.

    Along the road, we saw (or almost ran into) more reindeer and an Arctic fox.

    Oh, and I got chased by a dog for a out 200 yards (when my legs found new energy).

    As big spenders in our second 'big' city, we treated ourselves to a civilised meal (a burger in a children's restaurant, but it counts to us) and now we are bedding down in a camping lodge.

    Tomorrow - Finland    Lue lisää

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    Day 5 - Crossing into Finland

    16. toukokuuta 2016, Suomi ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Our longest single day of riding yet...and possibly the best. The roads have evened out compared to Norway and, despite some fierce wind, the weather has stayed mild.

    We are both in the rhythm of cycling now, and got through the last of Norway easily enough. After stops in Finland at passport control and a restaurant (meatballs and mash with free, refillable coffee) we pushed on to Hetta, along some beautiful Road - the forests turned from bare branches to lush green and the wind dropped away, allowing us to free-wheel much of the last 27km

    We were expecting to arrive in a town without any accommodation, but we are now sitting in a log cabin, surrounded by forest and mild, dry weather.

    So, Finland is great so far! But tomorrow may be our first day of cycling in the rain. Stay tuned...    Lue lisää

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    Day 6 - Wet weather and cheap coffee

    18. toukokuuta 2016, Suomi ⋅ 🌙 1 °C

    This morning started with uncertain skies as we left early from our lodge to get some distance before the rain was scheduled to hit (all afternoon, according to weather reports).

    As it turns out, the rain shower was more of a momentary drizzle, but after having our lunch on the roadside we took the opportunity to warm up and dry off in a Sami cafe 10km further on (50 cent for coffee and a doughnut!)

    After that, the sun broke again and we sailed though the last 40 km without much incident, even though by today our joints were aching and bums were increasingly sore.

    As it happens, the only available accommodation was a cabin with it's own sauna. When in Finland..!    Lue lisää

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    Day 7a - Tornio by different wheels

    18. toukokuuta 2016, Suomi ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Following a moment of inspiration, yesterday (from.me, for a change) we have opted to take a rest day and take ourselves (and our bikes) to Tornio by coach.

    This means we skip some of the Finnish-lapland wilderness (very pretty, but also a bit repetitive) and get to the Swedish border and coastline two days earlier.

    Plus, with Simon developing 'cycling palsy' in his hand from all the hours of gripping handlebars and my knees feeling tender, it gives us a good chance to recover.

    It's a bit of a zig-zag, as we had to take a bus further into Finland before getting anotherback towarda Sweden, but we'll arrive in Tornio, fresh and cycle-free, by mid afternoon.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja
    1

    Day 7b - At the Swedish Border

    18. toukokuuta 2016, Suomi ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    We arrived in rain-soaked Tornio - a border town to Sweden - and cycled to a 'campsite', which is so water-logged that we have had to rent another Cabin. I'm actually starting to miss sleeping on the ground for some reason.

    We're certainly in a bigger city (it even has traffic lights!) but the choice of food hasn't improved. After a long walk around town, we were forced to concede that (as trip advisor suggested) the best place to get a hot meal was, in fact, Ikea. So we crossed the border on foot to eat in their cafe before coming back to the cabin to finish the day with a sauna (free with the cabin rental, because it's Finland) and a beer.

    Unfortunately I managed to pick up some non-cycling injuries by slipping over in the sauna! So I'll cross into Sweden with some strapped toes and a dose of ibuprofen in my system.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 8 - Saved by public transport

    19. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    Day 1 in Sweden got off to a rather shakey start,as we left town following our route only to find the only path was a dual carriageway with 110 km speed limits. Worse still, the rain that weather reports warned us about proved to be depressingly accurate. It wasn't long before we were cycling in heavy rain, along the side of a major highway, being frequently overtaken (and sprayed) by dual-carriage lorries.

    We kept our heads down and cycled in close formation, to protect ourselves from traffic, for most of our 30km journey to the first stop in Sangis. Arriving at the Swedish equivalent of a motorway service station, where we ordered a burger and spread our wet clothes across the tables.

    In minimal clothing (practically underwear), we sat eating, taking advantage of free coffee refills and trying to make plans for the rest of the ride. Fortunately the options was still available to catch a bus, so we opted to skip some motorway and once again try to get our bikes on a bus - this time to Lulea.

    It was a great relief to find that not only could we pack our bikes onto the local bus (from a bus stop), but the Swedish busses are extremely well kitted out. They are essentially Coach-Lorry hybrids, with plenty of room for bikes and comfortable seating and even room for male and female toilets on-board.

    2.5 hours later and we were cycling through Lulea, via scenic woodland trails, to a camp ground on the picturesque coastline. Sunny weather tomorrow should mean that we get back to proper riding, on something more satisfying than a highway.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 9 - Sweden looking up (and down...)

    21. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Leaving Lulea for Pitea and avoiding another day on the miserable E4 meant drastically detouring and forming our longest route yet (estimated at 86km).

    On the plus side, the weather was beautiful and we were going to pass a nature reserve, so it was more of a 'touring' day than most.

    Sweden looks a lot more attractive when you get off their motorways. We were quickly surrounded by lakes, forests and men with unnecessarily large moustaches tending their (well spaced) gardens. Lunch was in the nature reserve, which we had to ourselves, on a field under the sun.

    It was hard going though, with constant hill climbs and equally steep descents. Also at one point, we hit unsealed, gravel track that proved pretty incompatible with our bikes.

    Eventually we made it to Pitea, having done over 90km because of detours around the E4, and arrived at our campsite...wedged between two industrial factories. Who says camping can't be glamorous?    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 10 - Big(ger) city frustrations

    22. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Waking up in Pitea, to the soothing sound of factory machinery, we didn't hang around long before heading to the bus station withheld aim of catching the earliest bus South to Umea, or even Sundsvall,

    Unfortunately, the morning busses weren't able to take bikes (for reasons that weren't exactly clear - "it's Saturday" the bus driver told us with a smile).

    So we were left in the derelict bus station withheld whole day to kill before the evening bus arrived, which could take us (and our bikes) as far as Umea.

    Luckily, the high street was a lot nicer and it wasn't a hardship to be killing time in the sunshine. We got lunch, had coffee, balanced our spending and did some writing.

    By evening we were ready again at the bus station, passing the time while waiting for the bus by watching the local drug dealer do his business across the street. The bus arrived in spite of all the signs suggesting it wouldn't, and we were on our way to Umea for 9:30pm.

    Since ourarrival was so late, we were pretty certain that the campsite we were heading to would be closed to new arrivals. Our plan was to camp anyway, and hopefully make cheeky use of their facilities. So we set off through an evening fog, along cycle routes that took us past a University and 30 minutes out of town.

    On arrival, it looked like we were out of luck, as all the facilities were controlled by ID cards (which we couldn't get as late arrivals). But, luckily, some other guests had left their cards lying around after leaving. So we were able to camp properly and not even pay for it! Can't complain, really...    Lue lisää

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    Day 11 - Sundsvall aaaand breakdown!

    22. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    So after our free camp, we set off early in the hope that we would be allowed on the earliest bus out of Umea to Sundsvall, the unofficial halfway point of our trip where we would finally set off on the bikes for some consistent days of riding again.

    There were no guarantees for the busses to accept our bikes, and when the bus pulled in we knew it was a company that officially refused to carry cycles. But, luckily for us, the coach was being driven by the nicest driver in Sweden. He insisted that, being his duty to serve customers, he should carry our bikes even though his employer refuses. So before long we were on the bus to Sundsvall, swapping stories with Magnus as he beamed and grinned and thanked us for being 'so polite' (while we thanked him right back, in that British way).

    The coach was a chance to catch up on sleep, take in the scenery and reflect on all the misery that we were missing by not cycling the E4 highway. We arrived at Sundsvall at midday, grabbed some coffee and lunch and we're feeling pretty good about ourselves.

    Unfortunately that wasn't to last, as we tried to set off for our cycle South for the evening and I realised that my rear wheel has been damaged by the less-friendly bus driver who dropped my bike (along with me) off the back of his bustwo days earlier. I won't elaborate, as it just makes me angry.

    So instead of leaving Sundsvall this evening, we are stuck in a nearby campsite so that I can head back in to town tomorrow and get my bike fixed. But, on the upside, our current campsite is a nice beach front type, overlooking the Gulf of Bothnia. So it has become a nice evening to sit out and enjoy some drinks, while watching Terns dive in the lapping water.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    DAY 12 - Good people make for good trips

    24. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    This morning marked a change of flow for us, as I had to leave slightly earlier and head back to Sundsvall for a bike repair. Meanwhile Simon would carry on the route with the hope that I could catch up.

    All started well, as the bike repair guy was great, a real passionate professional who made space for my bike amongst a constant flow of new on old customers on a busy Monday morning. Within an hour, my spokes were re-tensioned and I was back on the road (still with some clicks and squeaks to look at, but with the immediate problem solved).

    Pretty soon, a Top Gear-style cat and mouse chase developed as I raced to catch up with Simon and he pushed to keep one step ahead. Eventually we found each other at a service station, figuring it was best to meet after both struggling alone with our last rides on the E4 highway.

    After that followed a smooth ride together, via more scenic vista's and glistening lakes, to Bergso. The original plan - the best we had - was to push a bit further and wild camp outside a small village 10km further on. But heavy rains were expected overnight and neither of us were keen on a night in a field under this conditions. So we stopped into a pizzeria in Bergso, to charge our ailing phones, refresh and weigh up our options.

    After a beer there was a growing sense that Bergso was the place to stop, but we had no solution for sleeping. As luck would have it, the very kind,multi-lingual and chatty pizzeria owner introduced us to a fellow Brit and his family who live in the area. We got chatting and they very kindly offered us their back garden for camping, plus use of their house, for the night. Lucky us!

    We had another drink to celebrate before heading to the home of Mike and Sara to pitch tents in their garden. So we had somewhere safe to sleep and people looking out for us. But better still they invited us in for a drink, so we spent the evening sharing stories and bring made to feel like special guests. An end to the day that was immeasurably better than expected.    Lue lisää

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    Day 13 - Garden to Guesthouse

    25. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    After a good night's sleep in Mike and Sara's garden (in spite of the heavy overnight rain) they helped get us going with a coffee in their warm, dry kitchen before heading to work. We were treated to the sight of a woodpecker picking nuts from their bird feeder while we took in the caffeine.

    After that, we stuck around for a bit to wait for the rain to settle, then broke camp and set off in full waterproof gear, expecting the rain to hit us again on the ride.

    Pretty soon afterwards, I was stripping all those layers off, as it is now a lot warmer than it was in the North (double figures, even!). It didn't seem to matter anyway, as the day remained cloudy but mostly dry.

    Based on Mike's good advice, we took a slightly longer route that guaranteed sealed roads while also avoiding a return to the E4. It was hilly, but proved a nice ride between small towns with shops and services. Along the way we stopped to watch (and hear) a pair of migrating cranes as the milled around a front garden before flying off into the distance.

    Eventually we came out onto the 84, which was our road to Bergso. Unfortunately it was a lot more similar to the E4 than we had hoped and included multiple steep climbs. So the last part of our ride was back alongside lorries and fast-moving cars, cycling nose to tail for safety. Still, we were rolling into Bergso before too long.

    Bergso is a town with plenty of campsites, and with a thunderstorm predicted overnight, we had planned to hire a cabin for shelter and a chance to hand-wash clothes. Unfortunately, unlike all our previous stops, none of the campsites in Bergso are open until June. So, faced with the possibility of wild camping and waking up wet with no dry/clean clothes, we opted to stay in a B&B for the night. So it's an evening of clothes washing, hot showers and comfort before a proper breakfast; all to set us up for more wet weather cycling tomorrow.    Lue lisää

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    Day 14 - Riders on the Storm

    26. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    As we were in a B&B and there was a window of relatively dry weather in the afternoon, we opted to take our time enjoying the spoils. It gave time for a proper breakfast, allowed for hand-washed clothes to dry and gave us chance to be cheeky in asking for all other clothing to be washed and dried by the owners.

    They were happy to oblige, but the downside was it was no priority for them, so by the time we got the clothes back and everything onto the bike it was 2pm. We now had only 2 hours before heavy rain was scheduled, on a bike trip that would take at least 5.

    Those first 2 hours were a lot of fun. The rain was falling, and building, but we had a fairly relaxed climb followed by a nice, long downhill ride on a winding Road that overlooked a beautiful large lake.

    Not long after, the rain really got going and we spent the next couple of hours getting progressively soaked - a particular problem for Simon, whose water-resistant trouser completely soaked through.

    We made it to a grill house in the nearest town and bought a burger to fill up and justify taking over their business with drip-drying clothes. Happily, like in most places in Sweden, coffee was free, so we were able to change, dry off and get fed and watered before our last push.

    With the rain staying strong, and the wind picking up, we decided it was the time to go, riding in the fading light with wet gloves, coats and shoes (Simon was also down to shorts).

    I quite enjoyed the ride - it felt a bit more adventurous - but we were both glad to reach our campsite, with sodden shoes, damp clothes and waterproof gloves holding small pools of water, and access our 'dolls house' of a cabin for drying and resting.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja
    1

    Day 15 - Fleeing the Rain

    27. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After the previous day and a glance at future, rain-heavy weather forecasts, we decided that today was the day to make our last public transport hop. In order to stay (roughly) on track, we had to catch a bus East to Stockholm, therfore to catch a train West to Skovde.

    It seemed simple enough, but our camp manager informed us that the only way our bikes could travel by bus or train in this region was in a packed state, much like how we shipped them for the flights over. Luckily, he turned out to be a very charitable camp manager, and supplied us with all we needed; including plastic and gaffer tape to wrap our bikes, computer access for booking our tickets and a lift to the station.

    On arriving at the station, we forced 50 SEK (about) 3 quid) into his hand and climbed on the bus. That part of the journey went smooth, but upon arriving at Stockholm we realised that we were in a different world. The station was huge and full of people, and we had too much luggage to carry in one go (it's a lot more to carry when it's off the bike). So we moved our bags in relays, always keeping a line of sight to the pile that we left and the new one we were creating. After doing this three times, we were outside a Subway, so we could buy something resembling a lunch and use that as a base while one of us went to buy train tickets.

    Stockholm Bus and Train terminal is huge but, long story short, we eventually got on a train (6 hours after we arrived) and had a smooth run to Skovde. Where we could check in to our hotel - the only place that we were capable of reaching from the station (in similar relays).    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 16 - Engl(ish) Country Ride

    27. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    With a shorter day planned that allowed time for us to take advantage of a hotel breakfast and get our bikes re-build and fixed up (as well as more clothes to be hand-washed) we set off in the late afternoon for a 40km ride to Falkoping.

    (This was after stopping in the hotel corridor to have our photos taken by guests and hotel staff - it seems taking on a foolish and ill-planned journey turns you into a local celebrity)

    In spite of the rain, that chased us out of Skovde and drove our pace, this was one of the best rides yet. Most of the journey was gently rolling countryside that strongly resembled rural England (or Wales, even), complete with dry stone walls, ploughed fields and farm houses.

    It was all quite gentle and easy to take in until we reached Falkoping, and realised our campsite was actually a ski resort that takes summer guests. So the final 4km was a steep mountain climb to reach the peak overlooking the town and much of our route for the next day.

    It was nice to have the challenge (no climb has beaten me yet!), and we arrived earlier enough to pitch tents, play some mini golf and enjoy some free drinks from yet another generous camp manager.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 17 - An actual, factual Cycle Path!

    29. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After a very quick 2km descent from our ski lodge-based camp, we quickly hit a cycle path with signs suggesting they would run for the length of our day's ride. To our surprise and joy, that turned out to be true, and we spent the whole day on blissful, flat tarmac miles from any road.

    The day passed very pleasantly as we passed through farmlands, wild fields of dandelions and sights of hawks sailing above our heads. With a couple of stops in small towns for coffee breaks and lunch, it was an ideal cycling day - not spoilt in the slightest by the last five minutes of bug swarms and heavy rains as we closed in on our campsite.

    Hopefully, as we get closer to Copenhagen, days like this will become the norm.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 18 - Here comes the sun...

    29. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    So we woke up in another cosy cabin, wrapped in our sleeping bags as we were on the budget end and so no bedding was supplied (still, better than a tent in the rain). Unfortunately I seem to have developed a cold, probably from cycling through heavy rain in soaked clothes two days earlier. But it's nothing that a couple of painkillers and a coffee couldn't beat.

    Still, it was a slow start as the mind was willing but the body was lacking a bit. We were heading back on ourselves a bit, as we realised that we had gone of the 'Sun Route' by about 15km. So we left Vegby and passed some familiar features before arriving in Ulriceham once again, where we stopped for lunch (it was a slow start in all ways).

    After that, we were heading for Boras and, once again, it was along pristine cycle path. This time we got to enjoy forest views rather than rural farmland and we were flanked by a mass of pine trees and fir trees for most of the trip.

    We weren't alone on the path though. It seems as we are getting further South we are becoming lass of an oddity, as we are now just 2 of many cyclists on the go. We have also seen plenty of cross country skiers on the path, pushing themselves along wearing modified in-line skates for Summer training. Not something you see in the UK!    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja
    1

    Day 19 - Argh! So much sun!

    31. toukokuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After an evening camping in Boras, being bothered by the local crazy cat lady (a feature of all Swedish urban camping sites) we started riding out of the city as the sun rose in a cloudless sky.

    As a 25 degree day, we were in unknown territory. I was particularly struggling with thermal underlayers as my lightest clothing option. So it was a sweaty day of cycling through towns and along country roads, seeking shade and cool drinks where possible.

    We stopped on route in a town cafe, where I was able to get an ice coffee and we both had a proper lunch at a shaded outdoor table. After making heavy use of their complimentary soft drinks and chatting to the chefs, who all had working experience in the UK, we set off for a final push to our destination of Satila - a destination and a campsite reccomended to us by the last camp.

    Unfortunately, when we arrived it became quickly apparent that the Satila camp was a dive - unsupervised and ill-maintained with low quality facilities infested with bugs. So we were effectively wild camping, and only making use of the flat ground for the night.

    On the positive side, we were beside a large and beautiful lake, so I got to have a quick dip and we spent the evening on the pontoon cleaning our bikes, reading and generally enjoying the location.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 20 - Lunch in sun, Dinner in storms

    1. kesäkuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    So we awoke in our bug-infested, abandoned campsite and didn't waster any time getting our tents packed so we could move to the lakeside for breakfast. I did indulge my inner wild-man by using the bug-swarmed outdoor shower (little more than a worn shower curtain and a dirty shower mat, in a wooden shelter) before we left. I don't know if I was cleaner, but I felt cleaner.

    After breakfast and a quick wash of dishes in the Lake (only Porridge oats and water, so no dirtying the pristine waters) we set off. Before hitting some blissfully flat trails, we had to cross a valley, which meant two steep peaks and drops back to back. With the sun beating down, the swear was running and we were both being pursued by clouds of flies, as we conquered both peaks at the best pace that we could manage.

    After that, we stopped for lunch and cold drinks, plus a quick sink-wash, before bumping into a fellow (but former) Welsh man, who hailed from Bangor. We had a chat before setting off on what should have been an easy flat 40km. Unfortunately, after about 10km we caught sight of lightning on the horizon, along our route. After some indecision, we decided the best thing would be to hide out in the local pub (the first we have seen) and possibly wait out the storm.

    That proved to be a very smart idea, as the storm quickly approached and crossed over us. Torrential rain swept in and lightning followed, striking frequently and even hitting the ground across the street from the pub at one point - causing a power outage and cutting off out phone signals.

    So, with that weather front continuing to Loom, we opted to book into a hostel flown the street. We lost the chance to cover more distance, but gained a safe shelter and the chance to wash our clothes.    Lue lisää

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  • Owen PetersCycling Scandinavia 2016Matkaaja

    Day 21 - Tracing the Atlantic

    1. kesäkuuta 2016, Ruotsi ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    With some Kilometres to make up, we set off and got straight onto the 'Route 1' cycle path. It was a longer route than the direct option, but much more scenic (especially as the direct route was a main road).

    Pretty soon we were on a path running parallel to the west coast, in sight of the Atlantic for the first time since leaving Alta. The route was picturesque - winding through farmland, past windmills and across exposed coastland. With so much pleasant distraction, the first 40km went by fairly quickly.

    Our stop at Varberg was no less impressive, as the town is beautiful - with a striking coastline and some great green spaces, all linked by pedestrian cycle paths that were impressive even by Swedish standards.

    We left Varberg via coastal path that passed alongside golden beaches dotted with sunbathers before breaking off into countryside once again. Today has been a day when we have seen a definite shift in the number of cyclists. Leading up to Varberg, and in the city itself, we saw my cycle tourers (and more Ortlieb pannier bags) than we have all through the holiday, and there were plenty of local cyclists as well. One even rode alongside me, engaging in casual conversation before cutting off on his own path 8km outside of town.

    Now we are at our campsite and, like many before them, we had some difficulty arranging camp (because of the low season limitations) and have found the facilities severely lacking (no kettle, dish detergent or dish cleaning cloths). But we can struggle on with our own camping crockery, and it doesn't do.much to dampen another great day.    Lue lisää

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