Day 15. Villafranca a Montes de Oca

I woke up this morning hoping to be halfway to Burgos - 48 kms away- by now, but I reached today’s hotel 12 kms into my walk, by 9:30 am, so I have a 36 km walk ahead of me tomorrow. I’m in a beautiful village of 60 people, staying in a hotel that’s a converted old hospital built for pilgrims in 1377. Much of the original design has been retained with classic furniture and elegant rooms. There’s also an auberge connected to the same building as the hotel. I’ve included some photos.
I’d like to be walking by 6:30 every morning, but my starting time often hinges on when breakfast starts. Skipping breakfast has not been a good idea. At this place, breakfast starts at 7:00 , so tomorrow I’ll likely eat when it opens, then start walking after that. On my walk, I usually have fruit with me and some protein or nut bars. I, usually, reach my hotel no later than mid-afternoon, then chat with and eat with fellow pilgrims during evenings.
The weather has been cool and cloudy, although there were a few sunny breaks today. It was 5 degrees when I started this morning and it didn’t get higher than 12 degrees. Rain is projected in the forecast for the next two days.
On today’s walk , I did spend some time with Doug from California who has done 4 Caminos and he has his 19 year-old son with him on this one. His son wasn’t around when we were chatting. When I asked him what draws him back each time, his response was the physical challenge and the peace of mind that stays with him a long time after he completes it. He did share that his son, who has Asperger’s is enjoying this walk, but was extremely critical of the California education system for the damage they did to him. I could feel his frustration and sadness. It led to arguments with his wife, a subsequent divorce, and a lot of pain. I did a lot of listening, not disclosing that I was a teacher.
Common questions we pose to each other of this journey are, “What prompted you to do this Camino?” And “What do you hope to get from it?”One guy from England I was just chatting to, who has done eight Caminos, told me that pilgrims who stayed at the Roncesvalles auberge (2nd night) are given a questionnaire before leaving asking them the reasons they are on this journey and the options are physical, mental, social, and spiritual. He says the response, on the second day is overwhelmingly “physical,” with about 10% who checked off “spiritual.” For those who finish the Camino in Santiago, they are given the same questionnaire, their responses are 85% “spiritual.” Interesting! I’ll let you know what happens to me. Right now, I would say physical-30%, mental-30%, social -30% spiritual-10%Read more