The most beautiful stars

Finding a church in New Zealand isn't the most trivial thing in the world. I'd located a possibility in Russell, which also happened to be the oldest functioning church in the country. The morning started with me mapping the route, a rather surprising 1.5 hrs away. So we set out earlier than we had planned.

After an actual shower and a camper breakfast. I peeked out my camper window this morning and was not disappointed at the view. The sun was rising over the east side the of the ocean, and the fascinating, geometric looking pine trees lined the coast. Nate said the beach was covered in shells, which I plan to look over tomorrow morning. Today I was trying to make our first real breakfast with the camper van mini-kitchen. Eggs, ham, half a plum, pour over coffee with milk, and raw honey on NZ greek-style yogurt.

The country has a ton of industries, especially considering how tiny it is. Everything except the ham was grown here. All the food we've had has been so tasty and of a lovely quality. The climate was terrific today. I can't believe how much folks are talking about the coming of winter - it felt like northern california on a good day. I cooked with the back of the van wide open to the waves rolling in on the beach.

On the winding drive into Russell, I became confused. As we got close, the highway signs kept directing us to Russell via Vehicle Ferry. "Why does it keep saying by ferry?" I asked Nate. Then the lane was marked Ferry lane. We have to get in the ferry lane - no, we haven't bought ferry tickets -- what's all this about a ferry? Google didn't say anything about a ferry. When I scrolled over my map, I saw to my horror where the "road" became marked by a little boat. Thinking of scottish ferries I became concerned. What's the ferry schedule? What's the timing? But I realized there was no way to get there sooner. To get to Russell over the land route would add probably at least another hour.

Happily Google knew what he was doing, the ferry was a minimal charge, and runs continuously until 10p. We even made up time riding it and arrived on time to worship, rather than 10 minutes late.

Russell turned out to be a completely charming town. The church was so old it had musket holes still in the original wood, from prior to the treaty with the Maori. The whole town was at one time burned except for the church and the missionary printing press, as the Maori respected the foreign missionaries.

We ended up spending the afternoon in town, and visited the press also. They keep them working, and have restored the original leaher tannery as well.

For lunch I had some local mussels in a garlic cream sauce. I've never eaten such enormous, beautiful mussels. The shells were colorful with shades of green. The restaurant was called the Gables, and was built in the late 1800s. The interior was completely charming, and we had a seat by open windows directly overlooking the bay. All the harbors here seem filled with sail boats. We made our plans to get in a boat tomorrow.

Once back at Matauri Bay Campground, we took a short hike up to the top of a hill just after sunset. Along the hike there was ocean on both sides. I almost stopped at a bench half way up to relax and enjoy the view of the islands in the bay as the last of the orangey sunset faded, but then we decided to head to the top anyway.

The path was incredibly steep, and damp. It must've rained while we were in Russell. Trees had grown over most of it and shaded it. By the time we emerged on top there was almost no sunlight left, and an enormous monument was there. A huge rainbow made of natural stones, with a big propeller on it. It was too dark to read what it was all about.

We began to play around with photos, and shortly the stars began to come out. Quickly the sky was thick with stars. It was the first time I was absolutely sure I was looking at the Milkyway. I may have seen it before, but haven't been sure if it was really the galaxy, or maybe a cloud. But tonight was so clear, and there's so little population or light pollution about. I wish I could capture it.Read more