Derby.... and the journey to.

We left Kununurra in the east Kimberley to travel across the top of WA to reach the west coast at Derby. It's quite a long journey, and we needed 3 overnight stops where we free camped (along withLæs mere
We left Kununurra in the east Kimberley to travel across the top of WA to reach the west coast at Derby. It's quite a long journey, and we needed 3 overnight stops where we free camped (along with about 30 other caravans also free camping). There are only 2 major towns along this route - Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing - and while we fuelled up at each, the general impression was not somewhere you wanted to stay. One of the few camps we stayed at was Mary's Pool and we actually saw several freshwater crocs on the banks of the river.
Arriving in Derby it was nice to have a decent shower (we had to conserve water not knowing how long it would last free camping) and also be hooked up to power so we could use our 240V appliances. There is not a great deal to see in Derby but there were a few points of interest - the prison Boab tree, long water trough, the jetty and the sculptures on the marsh.
The prison Boab was reported to hold Aboriginal men who were stolen / kidnapped from East Kimberley to work as pearl divers on the coast. The sign board gives information about this. Nearby is a long water trough (120m - longest in the Southern Hemisphere) that could water almost 1000 bullocks at a time.
The jetty is horseshoe shaped and is a place that experiences huge tides of 11m. It was nice enough to look at during the day, but at sunset it was just spectacular. Along with the sculptures that depicted different aspects of life/people/animals of the area, it really was a highlight of our visit to Derby. Hope you enjoy the photos.Læs mere
Our last day excursion was to Lake Argyle, about 70km SE of Kununurra. The Lake, created by damming the Ord River, is the largest man made freshwater Lake in the Southern Hemisphere with a water capacity of over 9 times Sydney Harbour when it was opened in the early 1970s and then almost doubled that when they raised the dam wall in the mid 90s.
Lake Argyle stretches 70km to the south and 40km to the east. We went to various viewpoints and tried to get onto a cruise, but they were booked out. We visited the Argyle Homestead Museum - home of the pioneering Durack family. Many may be familiar with the book "Kings in Grass Castles" by Mary Durack, which chronicles the story of her family. The story of the family was very interesting and it was actually the grandson of the original Durack that recognised the area to be rich agricultural land and was the catalyst for creating the Ord River Irrigation Area.Læs mere
The original plan was to drive to the Bungle Bungle caravan park and pick up a 4WD tour into the national park as the road in is inaccessible to tandem axle vans and by all reports, the 50km trek is very corrugated with several water crossings and takes 3 or more hours to travel in (and then another 3+ hours to return). However, the company that offers these tours is awaiting the permits, so it is currently not operating. As we don't want to drive in ourselves, we did the next best thing and did a 2 hour flight from Kununurra. I think we made the right choice.
The flight left Kununurra, followed the Ord River down to Lake Argyle and then onto Purnululu (Bungle Bungles) where we got a good look at the striped beehive shaped domes the area is renowned for. I guess we missed the Cathedral Gorge and Echidna Chasm, but you can't do everything.
The return took us over the Argyle Diamond mine famous for its pink diamonds (as well as others). The pilot told us that they took out $60 million in diamonds every 10 days. We flew over the agricultural areas made possible by the Ord River Irrigation Area. What is incredible is only about 10% of the water is used for irrigation - the surplus is discharged out to sea.
Anyway, I'll let the pictures tell the story.Læs mere
Wyndham is about 100km NW of Kununurra and is considered Australia's most north western town. Quite a small town, it is home to a working port (iron ore - the abattoir and meatworks have long since shut down). We drove here mainly to go to the five rivers lookout. Driving up to the bastion that overlooks the town you come to a lookout point with a fantastic view of the Cambridge Gulf that has 5 rivers coming off it (Ord, King, Pentecost, Durack and Forrest) A spectacular sight - a little hazy but that is due to the burn off that they do in these northern areas in the dry season as a method of fire control.
Wyndham is also "home to the largest Boab in captivity" (their words, not mine), meaning the largest tree in an urban location - there are probably larger ones out there. This Boab, situated in the caravan park, is 20 metres in girth and estimated to be around 2000 years old.
We chatted to other travellers trying their luck at fishing down at the jetty, had lunch at the only cafe in town, took a photo of the big crocodile before heading back to Kununurra. We dropped into a small gorge called the Grotto but only a picture from the top because the steps to the base looked a bit dodgy.
Overall it was an enjoyable day except for the stone chip we picked up driving back. This is the third one we have had (since owning the car) and each time it has been on bitumen roads.Læs mere
About 40km from NT / WA border is Kununurra - the eastern gateway to the Kimberley. We have set up camp here and will use this as a base to explore the surrounding areas.
Kununurra is a fairly young town that was established as a construction town for the nearby Ord River irrigation scheme built in the 1960s. There are some interesting features that were worthwhile checking out. Nestled on the shores of Lake Kununurra (a manmade lake from the Ord River Irrigation Area) is very attractive and a great place to cool down - if you want to share it with the 7000 freshwater crocs that live there. The lake also provides Irrigation for the surrounding farmland with crops from soya beans and chickpeas, to tropical fruits (mango, banana and pawpaw), and cotton as well as the lucrative sandalwood which produces the oils for perfumes etc.
There is also the Mirima National Park which is also known as the mini bungle bungles which has some nice walks. I did the easy ones and sent Brad off to do the harder sections. Also climbed Kelly's knob for some great views over Kununurra. We drove to the Ivanhoe Crossing to watch people cross the causeway in their 4WD. It seems to be the thing to do when you are here.
Visited an ornamental stone factory that works with zebra stone. A very unique stone that is only produced in 2 places in Australia (possibly the world?). The other place is Litchfield in NT and they don't even understand how it is made. I bought an egg to go with my collection of stone eggs.
While at Kununurra we also visited Wyndham, Lake Argyle and did a flight over the Bungle Bungles but I'll cover these in separate footprints.Læs mere
We left Darwin heading south again towards Katherine which was just an overnight stopover on the way to Western Australia. We were a little delayed getting away from Darwin and didn't arrive in time to enjoy the Katherine Hot Springs, but they were similar to Bitter Springs and Berry Springs
Next day we travelled to Timber Creek - about 200km from the WA border. Timber Creek is a township surrounded by escarpments, the Victoria River and a long way from major supermarkets (about 220km to Kununurra and 280km to Katherine). We were early enough to get a powered site in the only caravan park - by 2pm the park was full. We drove up to the town lookout and monument to the Nackeroos (a group of soldiers whose job was to protect Australia's north from the Japanese threat during WWII). At this time we noticed the outside temperature hit 40°C - this is in the middle of winter!
Back at the campsite, they feed the crocs (freshwater) and kites which was quite a spectacle. Also got photos of our first Boab trees. Had to make up a big chicken curry with lots of veggies because the quarantine rules for WA are quite strict - no fresh fruit or vegetables, no seeds and no honey. Cross the border and onto Kununurra - the gateway to the Kimberley and our home for the next week.Læs mere
Well, according to my blog, we have now been on the road for 100 days (since we left our home) and have spent a fortnight in the Darwin area. As we been to Darwin twice - 20 years ago and 10 years ago - we have been to the main attractions so we didn't do too many tourist things but still found plenty to occupy our time.
We arrived the day before Territory Day (1st July) - the one day of the year when fireworks are legal to purchase and let off - and Territorians did it with gusto. Fireworks were exploding from about 5pm (not dark - such a waste) until the early hours of the morning. We went down to Mindl Beach where there were food stalls and entertainment, waiting for the fireworks display at 8pm on the beach. A very pleasant afternoon/evening chatting to various people who shared the table we sat at. They were mostly caravanners like ourselves. At about 5pm the airforce did a flyover with 4 or 5 F-35 jets. The noise, the speed ... such an adrenalin rush ... it was awesome, but unfortunately I was too slow to get my phone ready so you'll just have to take my word for it. We wandered over to Mindl Beach for the fireworks display and there was another surprise. The Beach was packed with thousands of people. The fireworks were great too.
We went to Aquascene where they feed fish on the incoming high tide. It was OK but the fish were mainly mullet and some catfish plus a couple of other bigger fish but as it was not a particularly high, high tide, the barramundi didn't turn up.
Went to the deckchair cinema and watched Black Bag (Cate Blanchett and Michael Fassbender) a thriller movie. Great atmosphere, really enjoyed it. We wandered around Stokes Wharf and the Esplanade; visited East Point military museum (had been here before but it has been improved - well worth visiting); had dinner at the Jetty buffet restaurant (food average but location superb); saw How to Train Your Dragon (exactly the same as the animation but the live action version - very enjoyable); Brad had a game of bowls (synthetic/carpet green with huge shade covering - essential in this climate).
As it has been hot (mid 30s every day) we have been using the pool most days as well as one day down at Berry Springs. That about wraps up Darwin and we have enjoyed our time here. We leave on Monday slowly making our way further west.Læs mere
Wow yes i have been to most of the activities you mentioned . Glad you are both having a great time cheers safe travels [Dawn]
My son and grandson fly into Darwin on Thursday so I’ll be seeing all these pictures again. Just love that part of the country but could do without the heat. [Chris]
Set up camp at caravan park just outside Litchfield National Park - to be our home for next 3 nights. - a bit of a relief to not be packing up and moving on each day. No tv or phone reception but at least starlink solves that problem.
We just visited the main points of interest, such as Wangi Falls, Buley Rockpools and Florence Falls. These ones we had visited about 10 years ago. The nicest was Wangi Falls as it was easy access to the water. The Buley rockpools are very popular but I found them too crowded and the rocks are very slippery. I prefer floating down the creek at home - much more enjoyable.
There were a couple of other waterfalls / lookouts / bushwalks we went to as well as checking out the magnetic termite mounds which almost looked like a cemetery with lots of similar sized grey headstones. They are built in a north south alignment - something to do with temperature regulation. Nature is fascinating.
Off to Darwin now for a couple of weeks and a chance to catch up on some housekeeping (washing, grocery shopping etc) and generally just relaxing for a bit.Læs mere
It's a long way from Alice Springs to Darwin - around 1500km - and we made our way up slowly, spending an overnighter every 250km or so. We have hit the start of Northern Territory school holidays and there are an awful lot of caravans heading both north and south. Many caravan parks / camp spots cannot be prebooked and operate on a first come first serve business. Most places we stayed were full every night and for the most part they were pretty rustic.
Not a great deal to see along the way, but there were a few photo worthy opportunities.
Stop 1 - Ti Tree - just before this town at Aileron there is a 12 meter high statue of an Aboriginal warrior set high on the hill. At ground level there was another large statue of an Aboriginal woman and child (and goanna) looking up at the man.
Stop 2 - Devil's Marbles or Karlu Karlu - we were too late for a campsite at the Devil's Marbles hotel but were able to free camp out the front along with another 20 or so caravans. We walked around the Devil's Marbles - I kind of imagined them to be bigger.
Stop 3 - Renner Springs - nothing to see here... moving on.
Stop 4 - Daly Waters - this is an iconic stop... apparently! We had heard that the caravan park at the pub was extremely busy so we stayed a few km down the road which turned out to be a good choice. Not only did we get a nice quiet site looking over a horse paddock, they also gave us a voucher for a free beer and wine so of course we had a meal there which was of generous proportions. We checked out the other caravan park and there were vans lining up to get in, packed in like sardines. The attraction? Just quirky I guess. There were donkeys wandering around and old junk planes and cars littered around. The beef and barra at the pub is supposed to be good and they have live music every night. We were more than happy with our choice though.
Stop 5 - Mataranka/Bitter Springs - if we thought Daly Waters was a mad house, then Mataranka was unbelievable. We arrived about 10.30am and there were only about 10 unpowered sites left. By 11am the park was full and vans were being turned away. Anyway, we got our spot and spent a lovely afternoon floating down the crystal clear springs. They were a little warm (thermal springs) but it was relaxing. I sent Brad down later to take photos and he came back saying the rangers were closing the Springs because a croc had been sighted just a few metres from where we entered the water. So, no swimming for several days. Lucky we got our turn.
Stop 6 - Pine Creek - just a halfway point between Mataranka and Litchfield National Park.
We will be glad to be able to stop for a few nights at Litchfield and then a couple of weeks in Darwin as moving on every day is a bit tiring.Læs mere
While based in Alice Springs we explored the West Macdonnell Ranges over three days. There are quite a few gorges and waterholes - some better than others. We drove to Redbank Gorge (@150km from Alice). The walk wasn't to my liking- dry rocky creek bed navigating around boulders etc. I gave up and left Brad do the last 50m or so as you had to climb over large rocks to reach the waterhole. The water was quite murky and not very inviting.
Working our way back to Alice was Glen Helen Gorge (poorly maintained track through a dry creek bed), Serpentine Gorge (quite pretty), the Ochre Pits (not as colourful as the ones up near Marree in SA), Ormiston Gorge (one of my favourites - easy walk too), Ellery Creek Big Hole (this was nice too - but it was getting late and the sun was setting). That was a big day - over 18000 steps and 300km driving - and we still had a couple of other places to visit which we did a couple of days later.
Probably the most dramatic and well known is Standley Chasm with its sheer crevices which glow orange at the right time of day (@noon). Simpson's Gap was the other point of interest and it, along with Standley Chasm, are usually featured in tourism advertising for Alice Springs and the Northern Territory.
On our final day in Alice we picked up a tour to Palm Valley which included serious 4WD experience. After about 20km of corrugated roads and dry sandy/rocky river bed crossings, the last 4km had the 4WD bus going up and down rock shelves and creek crossings. There is no way we would tackle it in our vehicle. When we reached Palm Valley there were hundreds of palms and cycads that seem out of place in the desert environment. Once again, another walk that didn't suit me - climbing up rocks and descending again - I'm going to stick to the easy walks from now on as I really don't enjoy rock hopping.
So, a busy week in Alice Springs, saw plenty, time to keep heading north. Photos of all the stops to give you an idea.Læs mere
A magnificent sunset!! You are missing out on the cold weather we are having. [Molly]