Japan 2024

maj - juni 2024
  • Judith Rivlin
Et 16-dags eventyr af Judith Læs mere
  • Judith Rivlin

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  • 9,6krejste kilometer
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  • Typical architecture near our Kyoto hotel
    Margot and Ben with okonomiyak for lunchSchoolchildren paying their respects at memorial in HiroshimaView from inside Hiroshima peace museum, looking towards atomic bomb domeChildrens' memorialJapanese friend modeling an informal kimono

    Days 9+10: Kyoto + Hiroshima

    3. juni 2024, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We traveled to Kyoto by train - taking the very comfortable bullet train, but it being a local we didn’t travel super fast. At over one million residents, Kyoto is a big city but tiny in comparison to Tokyo. It looks and feels much smaller, too. Most buildings in the area where we are staying - 20 minute walk from the Kyoto train station - are low rise, many looking like traditional Japanese homes, with tiled roofs and wooden screens in front.

    After some initial shopping in the area, we ate dinner at a small casual restaurant where we stumbled through the menu using google translate. No English here but we had yet another great meal: shared omelets, two kinds of fried chicken and more.

    The next day, Monday, Margot, Ben and I took the train to Hiroshima - the bullet train took one hour forty minutes. Every mode of transportation is precisely on time! We began our day with lunch, enjoying the local special: Okonomiyak, pancake bottomed creation topped with fish, meat and vegetables, with an optional egg (see photo).

    We then visited the Hiroshima peace museum and park. As expected, it was impactful: informative and full of stories about the atomic bomb and aftermath. There were many paintings made by survivors - some 60 years later that were particularly moving. As we see everywhere, there are many touring schoolchildren, including at a memorial in the peace garden that was dedicated to a charismatic girl who died of leukemia a few years after the bomb. She made origami cranes, hoping to heal herself, and there are now hundreds of thousands of paper cranes in cases that are part of the memorial.

    Returning to Kyoto we found a small nearby restaurant for wagu that we cooked on a grill built into the table, along with sake. Then to the local beer garden where we met up with the same delightful Japanese couple Eric, Ben and Matt had befriended the prior night.
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  • Raked stone garden at the Silver PavilionLower part of the Silver PavilionAlong the Philosopher's WalkPhilosopher's WalkProud Eric, with gyozas he formed into shapeAt the netsuke museumOne of the more amusing nestsukesLantern with the Gion marksBen cooking our gyozas

    Days 11 + 12: Kyoto

    4. juni 2024, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Tuesday in Kyoto began with a simple honey toast breakfast at the nearby Murmur coffee cafe.

    We visited the Ginkaku-ji temple (aka: Silver Pavilion), a Zen temple from the Muromachi Period (1336-1573), and its gardens. The temple is famous for its “wabi-sabi” style (beauty in imperfection, recognizing 3 Buddhist realities: nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect).

    From the temple - after small stops along the busy shopping street en route - we walked the Philosopher’s Path, a peaceful stone walkway parallel to a creek running through residential neighborhoods. It is so-named after a scholar of yesteryear who daily walked the route to work, thinking about life’s mysteries as he went.

    We also visited the Eikando Temple, another Buddhist temple built upon the hillside. Again, with beautiful gardens surrounding it. There were paintings from competing schools and well-preserved tatami mats. Here we were lucky enough to observe a purple-clad monk chanting prayers.

    For an afternoon snack, we enjoyed crepes at a French bakery, part of a small chain Eric had visited in Paris. Then back to our hotel/ryokan for a rest before another great meal: Yakiniku/Wagu dinner with meats cooked for us table-top.

    On Wednesday, we began our day with a cooking class (Narita’s cooking school), conducted in her modest apartment) where we made gyoza, and learned about making ramen, too, enjoying both dishes for our lunch. From there, I went with Sarah and Matt to a small museum of netsuke, then back for a rest before our evening walking tour of the Gion neighborhood, known both for its Geishas and traditional architecture.

    Our wonderful tour guide, Richard, led us around the area for well over 4 hours (beyond the expected 3-hour tour we booked)! Richard is half-Japanese and half-American and a fountain of information. Though we did not see any of the about 100 active Geishas, we learned about their exhaustive training and rigid lifestyle. After training for about 5 years (aged 15-20/21) they can work as a Geisha for no more than 15 years. We also toured temples and learned more about the traditional Japanese architecture. As Kyoto was spared the bombs of WW2, the older areas are particularly beautiful.

    For dinner, we stopped at a local convenience store for bites to eat in our respective bedrooms. Before bed, we all enjoyed deep soaks in our cedar tubs!
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  • A quiet moment at the bamboo forest
    The very orderly system for queuing up at the bus depotSarah and Margot by the River in Arashiyama Park, en route to the bamboo forestThere are very few public trash pails in Japan. One normally carries their own trash home to discardShowing off their octopus at Nishikikoji-dori marketOne of the prints Margot and Ben purchasedOne of about 10 dishes from dinner. The marbled item is whale - a first for us, but not favored!We removed shoes before entering the tatami-covered dining area for dinnerThe women at front desk of the Kyoto Ryokan where we stayed

    Day 13: Kyoto

    6. juni 2024, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We travelled to the northwest area of Kyoto (Arashiyama) to visit and walk through the nearby bamboo forest. It was pretty but too crowded with tourists to appreciate from a nature point of view - with few exceptions.

    For lunch we meandered through the Nashiki market, buying small treats: for me it was grilled shrimp on a skewer, oysters with salmon roe and uni, and fried chicken.

    We then visited a lacquer shop operated by a family practicing the art for some 400 years! Eric spent a long time deciding what he wanted to buy: six simple/elegant red and black bowls is what he is bringing home. Then on to a print shop Eric, Matt and Sarah visited earlier in the week. Sarah and Matt decided to buy two prints, as did Margot and Ben! (Eric bought two prints during his first visit there.)

    We had planned to visit a champagne and whiskey bar Margot found, but reconsidered upon learning it had a cover charge of about $200US, per person! We enjoyed a bottle of champagne at a hotel bar instead…!

    Another excellent “omakase” (chef’s choice) dinner. For this one, at Washoko Toku, we had a table set for 6 in a small room behind the primary restaurant area in the front. The front section had stools set at a counter for about 8 diners, half of which were filled, but only for the first part of our 3-hour dinner, with which we enjoyed 3 different cold sakes. Knowing it would be challenging to find restaurants to seat all six of us, Eric made (actually “requested”) several reservations before we arrived in Japan. Most restaurants are primarily counter-style with only 8-12 seats.
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  • Fun ramen spot
    Nijo castleGardens at the Nijo castleFabric artist at crafts' museumFor our dinner! With the sous chefThose same fish, ready for grilling! With chefTwo to be enjoyed: crunchy and tastyThe family at end of our last dinner togetherFire ramen!

    Day 14: last day in Kyoto

    7. juni 2024, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After breakfast (dining separately by couple) at a cafe that Sarah and Matt discovered, together we took the bus to the Nijo Palace. The Palace was surrounded by beautifully sculpted Japanese gardens, while the interior sections contained reproduced paintings in an unfurnished palace, most of which were public rooms used for receiving honored guests.

    After touring the Palace and grounds, we split up with Eric, Sarah and Matt heading to the Genji museum, while Margot, Ben and I went for a fun and tasty ramen lunch at Hot Ramen - see video. Margot and Ben then went back to the ryokan to pack and rest, while I visited the Kyoto crafts’ museum. It is small in size, but has exhibits showing some 70 crafts practiced by artisans in Kyoto, including one fabric artist who was demonstrating her craft.

    Dinner was best one of the trip, at a one-star Michelin restaurant - a great finale. We were the only guests at this omakase restaurant where the chef and his assistant served a “kaiseke” dinner, featuring seasonal foods. It was mostly fish and vegetables, and every dish was fabulous - even the small grilled fish we ate in entirety - fish we saw alive towards the beginning of the meal! The chef and assistant shared information about the various dishes using google translate: they seemed to enjoy us as much as enjoyed them!
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  • Mt. Fuji
    Mt. Fuji with rice paddies in the foregroundOur last ramen in Tokyo

    Day 15: going home

    8. juni 2024, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We left the ryokan on Saturday at 6:30AM Tokyo time and expect to arrive at DCA just before 9PM of the same day, after a layover and flight change in LAX, something like 26/27 hours in transit! It’s 2pm as I write this in the Tokyo airport waiting to board our Zipair flight.

    On the train from Kyoto to Tokyo this morning, we caught several sightings of Mt. Fuji. It is a partly cloudy day so sometimes it was hidden from sight, making it even more exciting when it popped into view again!

    DCA: 8:35PM
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