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Japan 2024
  • Judith Rivlin

Japan 2024

A 16-day adventure by Judith Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 24, 2024
  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler

    Arrive Tokyo

    May 23, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We had a surprisingly comfortable 11 hour flight from SFO to Tokyo, had an easy time through customs and were driven to our luxury hotel (quite sumptuous for our first two nights before meeting the kids at a more modest ryokan in 2 days). We wandered the nearby streets looking for a bite to eat after 11pm, and found our own variation of the “midnight diner”, with yummy ramen’s ordered and paid for via a machine outside the front door.Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Buddhist cemetery

    First full day in Tokyo

    May 25, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It was a sunny day with comfortable temperatures. With a personal tour guide, who first helped us learn how to navigate the comprehensive metro system, we travelled to a northwestern neighborhood, Yanaka. It is a low rise area with active street shops. After wandering through a Buddhist cemetery, we walked through the Yanaka neighborhood, with a few stops to buy small souvenirs. Then we enjoyed a great lunch sitting at a counter facing the chefs. It was fish-based with sashimi and tempura. Then we walked to and toured the historic (former) Kusuo Yasuda house and garden that’s over 100 years’ old. For dinner we went to a restaurant Eric found that specializes in duck. Of the 11 courses we had (prix fixe) two were duck, several were fish, and others vegetables, ending with miso soup, and then watermelon. The restaurant seats 12 customers, has only one seating per evening, and is owned and run by a charming and personable couple who have been doing this for 15 years. The meal ended with the origami folding of a souvenir crane.Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler

    Tokyo Day 2

    May 26, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We moved to our ryokan (Japanese style hotel), anticipating the kids’ arrival tonight. We spent the day learning our way around the Shinjuku neighborhood - compared to Times Square in its hustle and bustle. Being Sunday, it wasn’t too crowded, at least not in the morning. Just a few blocks from our hotel we stumbled upon a rowdy parade: once a year people from neighborhoods put on robes distinctive to their area, and parade with great zest, carrying a palanquin. They head to the nearby Shinto shrine. We saw them at the end of the day, too, so it seems to be a day-long celebration that included people of all ages. We continued our wanderings, and stumbled upon a little outside market on our way to the municipal government building where we went to the top for 360 degree views of Tokyo. Mt. Fuji is visible on really clear days, but not today. Then off for a lunch of tempura and a stroll thru the large Shinjuku Japanese gardens. When we returned to our hotel, Eric and I (separately) visited the onsen (hot baths) on the top floor; there are inside and outside single sex hot baths with a bird’s eye view of the city. The hotel room is tiny, with tatami mats on the floor and slippers provided as you must remove your street shoes immediately upon entering the room. Simple ramen dinner as we waited for Sarah, Matt, Margot and Ben to arrive (as they did - weary but happy to be here).Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Breakfast, Japanese style
    Playful vendor selling ice cream; note what customers are wearing!Margot and Ben, with Skytree in background

    Tokyo Day 3

    May 27, 2024 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    First day with the kids in Tokyo. We began with a delicious Japanese breakfast at our traditional Japanese hotel: fresh mackerel, tempura vegetables, egg custard, pickles, and more!
    Then we travelled by subway to the Asakusa neighborhood, site of the Sensoji Temple, built in 628 and the oldest temple in Tokyo. Around it are lanes packed with shops, with many tourists, and a generally festive atmosphere. Many people, especially women, were dressed in traditional kimonos- not sure how many own their own as opposed to renting one for the day from one of the local rental booths. We spent time wandering and shopping; Sarah and Matt enjoyed the custom for making a wish near the Temple (selecting a drawer that was full of good or not so good/bad wishes/fortunes - they were delighted with theirs!)
    Dinner was at a fabulous restaurant known for grilling. The dinner was sumptuous - again mostly fish-based, hot and cold. 9 courses in all - delicious and not expensive for the quality and quantity, but we all ran out of stamina!    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Fish at the market
    Wagu beef for cook to order at the marketSushi being preparedBen and Margot, with Matt, at the baseball gameJudy and Sarah at the gameEric with our mini swallows umbrellaSarah with an egg salad sandwichCelebrating a home run

    Tokyo Day 4

    May 28, 2024 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Family went to the Tsukiji Outer Market (the former fish market) for breakfast purchased from market vendors: fish on skewers, sukiyaki, fresh strawberries, wagu cooked to order…we walked around sampling various foods.
    We then went to the fancy Ginza shopping area, where we mostly window shopped,
    visiting a fancy paper store, a chopsticks’ store and Matsui Ginza department store with its fabulous food court.
    Sampled an egg salad sandwich purchased at the 7/11 across from our hotel - egg salad is a “thing” here and 7/11’s are everywhere.
    We upgraded in our ryokan from a tiny room to one where we can actually approach the very low bed from both sides. After our daily and refreshing dip in the hotel’s hot tubs (onsen), we took the metro to a baseball game: the home team Yakult Swallows against the Chiba Lotte Marines. Though rain was forecast, it held off for the first few innings and enough for us to get in 5 innings, albeit getting drenched over the last hour or so. Baseball in Japan is a big deal: fans dress in team colors and sit based on which team they favor. We sat with the home team fans, but the opponents were much more rowdy - and their team played better. Whenever our team hit a home run, fans twirl little umbrellas and generally go nuts - we got to celebrate 3 home runs! It was a lot of fun!    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Dinner setting
    Happy Pancakes, breakfastImperial gardensMatt and Sarah at the Imperial GardenWith cousin Karin Roffman @ Frank Lloyd Wright Bar, Imperial HotelFirst of many fish coursesClan cake in fish brothUni and salmon roeGrilled beef Ragu

    Tokyo Day 5

    May 29, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We started our day with a ride to Happy Pancakes, a small 7th floor restaurant in the Ginza district Margot knew about that’s known for its soufflés. You put your name on the waitlist at street level and they let you know when your table will be ready. We were told to expect a wait of 100 minutes and left to visit the Itoya store, a 10 story store (!) that has beautiful paper and writing supplies, as well as small household goods. Alas, after only about 45 minutes we are notified that our table was ready, so we hustled to return in time for yummy breakfast soufflés.
    We then metro-ed to two stores known for their Japanese wood block prints, where Matt and Sarah purchased two prints to take home. From there we walked for about 15 minutes to the Imperial Gardens, that abut the Imperial Palace (that was not visible from our vantage). It was a gorgeous day to visit the gardens - large expanses of green, with ponds, flowering areas (azaleas and iris), walking paths through trees and among large defensive stone walls from when the palace had to be defended against invaders.
    We then met up with Judy’s second cousin Karin Roffman, who also was in town, she from New Haven! We met for drinks at the Frank Lloyd Wright bar at the Imperial Hotel, an historic bar Mike Makuch wisely recommended.
    Then off to dinner at a hidden restaurant, Sorahana. Like so many places here, it’s visually spectacular. The dining bar had space for just the 6 of us. (A private room for another group of 4 was behind shoji-screens.) The meal was omakase style, meaning the chef presented a set menu, with thoughtful adjustments tailored to Eric’s shrimp allergy. The meal was visually stunning and delicious, served on dozens of small dishes. It was primarily fish, some cooked. We could choose our entree from 4 options, and most of us selected the grilled wagu beef; Matt had turtle soup. The meal was nicely paced, consisting of 10-11 courses, and took about 2 1/2 hours. We were full but not uncomfortably stuffed.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Eric and the Buddha
    View from Hasedera TempleEnjoying Korean barbecueWaterfall at the Hasedera Temple

    Tokyo Day 6

    May 30, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Our family divided up today: Eric and I went to Kamakura, a small town 25 miles outside of Tokyo. It is known for its historically significant Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines dating back to the 13th century, and earlier. We first visited the Hasedera Temple, founded in 738. The grounds included vistas of the coastline, and many hydrangeas in bloom.

    We walked from one temple to another along with many other tourists, most of whom were Japanese, including many groups of school kids. At the Great Buddha of Kamakura (the second tallest bronze Buddha in Japan), several 10-year old school girls approached me to practice their English - very cute, and ending with them giving me an origami crane.

    We also hiked for about an hour (longer than expected) through heavily wooded and hilly terrain. We passed a few other hikers, but it was pretty quiet, save some exotic birds singing. The hike took us to the Zeniarai Bentsen Shrine, where people wash their money believing that if it’s washed in the shrine’s spring it will multiply. We didn’t test it out.

    After visiting four of the temples and shrines, we walked through the town of Kamakura and did a little shopping, before enjoying a Korean barbecue dinner and returning to Tokyo for our last night, before heading to Hakone tomorrow.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Mt. Fuji, with fields of rice patties
    Climbing by bus to HakoneMargot and Ben at the botanical gardenEric in his yukataMatt and Sarah dressed for dinnerPart of dinnerMore of dinner; note soy sauce in shape of Mt Fuji

    Japan, Day 7: on to Hakone

    May 31, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    On a rainy morning, we took cabs to the main train station in Tokyo for a journey south to Hakone, a mountainous town known for its hot springs. Transportation was a little stressful: getting through the gates with our QR codes wasn’t as seamless as we expected, and it took a minute to figure out which bus would carry us to our hotel.

    The highlight of our train ride was seeing Mt. Fuji! It’s magnificent. I wasn’t sure we’d actually get to see it, as the weather isn’t great.

    We had lunch at a soba restaurant near our hotel and visited a nearby botanical garden of wetlands, that specializes in plants found in bogs and marshes. With a similar climate to DC, the plants and flowers I have seen in Japan are pretty similar to what we have at home.

    We are staying in another ryokan, a traditional Japanese lodge where you take your slippers off at the front door of the sleeping room, sleep on low mattresses on tatami flooring, and use the hotel-provided yukata- robes to wear around the hotel - whether for going to the natural hot springs, or for dining.

    We all used the hot baths and dined at the hotel: another feast with dozens of small plates.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Lake Ashi, from a gondola
    Breakfast at the hotel; miso, salmon, many small vegetable dishesOur pirate ship, Queen AshinkoSarah, striking a Titanic poseMatt as a samuraiBen and Margot. Mt Fuji is hidden over Ben's shoulderPieced wooden traysSchool girls at the sulphuric springs

    Day 8; Hakone

    June 1, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    On all other days we walked - and walked. Today was all about transportation.

    After raining most of last night, we woke to blue skies, with plans to take busses, cable cars, gondolas, and trains, hoping to see pretty scenery, including Mt. Fuji.

    We had a great day that began on a “pirate ship” crossing Lake Ashi. Disembarking at the first stop, we walked to a nearby town with shops carrying special patchwork wooden products Eric wanted to check out. We happened upon a beautiful and quiet path through very tall pine trees. Just an hour or so out of Tokyo, it was very peaceful.

    Though we couldn’t see Mt. Fuji due to clouds, we still had great views of closer mountains surrounding the lake, and smoking volcanic sulphuric vents (see photos) at the peak of the gondola, where we also bought and ate “black eggs”, said to add 7 years to your life!

    The final train we took this afternoon was so steep it required several switchbacks. Bus ride back to our ryokan for a visit to the onsen before supper. Tomorrow we are off to Kyoto.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Typical architecture near our Kyoto hotel
    Margot and Ben with okonomiyak for lunchSchoolchildren paying their respects at memorial in HiroshimaView from inside Hiroshima peace museum, looking towards atomic bomb domeChildrens' memorialJapanese friend modeling an informal kimono

    Days 9+10: Kyoto + Hiroshima

    June 3, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We traveled to Kyoto by train - taking the very comfortable bullet train, but it being a local we didn’t travel super fast. At over one million residents, Kyoto is a big city but tiny in comparison to Tokyo. It looks and feels much smaller, too. Most buildings in the area where we are staying - 20 minute walk from the Kyoto train station - are low rise, many looking like traditional Japanese homes, with tiled roofs and wooden screens in front.

    After some initial shopping in the area, we ate dinner at a small casual restaurant where we stumbled through the menu using google translate. No English here but we had yet another great meal: shared omelets, two kinds of fried chicken and more.

    The next day, Monday, Margot, Ben and I took the train to Hiroshima - the bullet train took one hour forty minutes. Every mode of transportation is precisely on time! We began our day with lunch, enjoying the local special: Okonomiyak, pancake bottomed creation topped with fish, meat and vegetables, with an optional egg (see photo).

    We then visited the Hiroshima peace museum and park. As expected, it was impactful: informative and full of stories about the atomic bomb and aftermath. There were many paintings made by survivors - some 60 years later that were particularly moving. As we see everywhere, there are many touring schoolchildren, including at a memorial in the peace garden that was dedicated to a charismatic girl who died of leukemia a few years after the bomb. She made origami cranes, hoping to heal herself, and there are now hundreds of thousands of paper cranes in cases that are part of the memorial.

    Returning to Kyoto we found a small nearby restaurant for wagu that we cooked on a grill built into the table, along with sake. Then to the local beer garden where we met up with the same delightful Japanese couple Eric, Ben and Matt had befriended the prior night.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Raked stone garden at the Silver PavilionLower part of the Silver PavilionAlong the Philosopher's WalkPhilosopher's WalkProud Eric, with gyozas he formed into shapeAt the netsuke museumOne of the more amusing nestsukesLantern with the Gion marksBen cooking our gyozas

    Days 11 + 12: Kyoto

    June 4, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Tuesday in Kyoto began with a simple honey toast breakfast at the nearby Murmur coffee cafe.

    We visited the Ginkaku-ji temple (aka: Silver Pavilion), a Zen temple from the Muromachi Period (1336-1573), and its gardens. The temple is famous for its “wabi-sabi” style (beauty in imperfection, recognizing 3 Buddhist realities: nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect).

    From the temple - after small stops along the busy shopping street en route - we walked the Philosopher’s Path, a peaceful stone walkway parallel to a creek running through residential neighborhoods. It is so-named after a scholar of yesteryear who daily walked the route to work, thinking about life’s mysteries as he went.

    We also visited the Eikando Temple, another Buddhist temple built upon the hillside. Again, with beautiful gardens surrounding it. There were paintings from competing schools and well-preserved tatami mats. Here we were lucky enough to observe a purple-clad monk chanting prayers.

    For an afternoon snack, we enjoyed crepes at a French bakery, part of a small chain Eric had visited in Paris. Then back to our hotel/ryokan for a rest before another great meal: Yakiniku/Wagu dinner with meats cooked for us table-top.

    On Wednesday, we began our day with a cooking class (Narita’s cooking school), conducted in her modest apartment) where we made gyoza, and learned about making ramen, too, enjoying both dishes for our lunch. From there, I went with Sarah and Matt to a small museum of netsuke, then back for a rest before our evening walking tour of the Gion neighborhood, known both for its Geishas and traditional architecture.

    Our wonderful tour guide, Richard, led us around the area for well over 4 hours (beyond the expected 3-hour tour we booked)! Richard is half-Japanese and half-American and a fountain of information. Though we did not see any of the about 100 active Geishas, we learned about their exhaustive training and rigid lifestyle. After training for about 5 years (aged 15-20/21) they can work as a Geisha for no more than 15 years. We also toured temples and learned more about the traditional Japanese architecture. As Kyoto was spared the bombs of WW2, the older areas are particularly beautiful.

    For dinner, we stopped at a local convenience store for bites to eat in our respective bedrooms. Before bed, we all enjoyed deep soaks in our cedar tubs!    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    A quiet moment at the bamboo forest
    The very orderly system for queuing up at the bus depotSarah and Margot by the River in Arashiyama Park, en route to the bamboo forestThere are very few public trash pails in Japan. One normally carries their own trash home to discardShowing off their octopus at Nishikikoji-dori marketOne of the prints Margot and Ben purchasedOne of about 10 dishes from dinner. The marbled item is whale - a first for us, but not favored!We removed shoes before entering the tatami-covered dining area for dinnerThe women at front desk of the Kyoto Ryokan where we stayed

    Day 13: Kyoto

    June 6, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We travelled to the northwest area of Kyoto (Arashiyama) to visit and walk through the nearby bamboo forest. It was pretty but too crowded with tourists to appreciate from a nature point of view - with few exceptions.

    For lunch we meandered through the Nashiki market, buying small treats: for me it was grilled shrimp on a skewer, oysters with salmon roe and uni, and fried chicken.

    We then visited a lacquer shop operated by a family practicing the art for some 400 years! Eric spent a long time deciding what he wanted to buy: six simple/elegant red and black bowls is what he is bringing home. Then on to a print shop Eric, Matt and Sarah visited earlier in the week. Sarah and Matt decided to buy two prints, as did Margot and Ben! (Eric bought two prints during his first visit there.)

    We had planned to visit a champagne and whiskey bar Margot found, but reconsidered upon learning it had a cover charge of about $200US, per person! We enjoyed a bottle of champagne at a hotel bar instead…!

    Another excellent “omakase” (chef’s choice) dinner. For this one, at Washoko Toku, we had a table set for 6 in a small room behind the primary restaurant area in the front. The front section had stools set at a counter for about 8 diners, half of which were filled, but only for the first part of our 3-hour dinner, with which we enjoyed 3 different cold sakes. Knowing it would be challenging to find restaurants to seat all six of us, Eric made (actually “requested”) several reservations before we arrived in Japan. Most restaurants are primarily counter-style with only 8-12 seats.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Fun ramen spot
    Nijo castleGardens at the Nijo castleFabric artist at crafts' museumFor our dinner! With the sous chefThose same fish, ready for grilling! With chefTwo to be enjoyed: crunchy and tastyThe family at end of our last dinner togetherFire ramen!

    Day 14: last day in Kyoto

    June 7, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After breakfast (dining separately by couple) at a cafe that Sarah and Matt discovered, together we took the bus to the Nijo Palace. The Palace was surrounded by beautifully sculpted Japanese gardens, while the interior sections contained reproduced paintings in an unfurnished palace, most of which were public rooms used for receiving honored guests.

    After touring the Palace and grounds, we split up with Eric, Sarah and Matt heading to the Genji museum, while Margot, Ben and I went for a fun and tasty ramen lunch at Hot Ramen - see video. Margot and Ben then went back to the ryokan to pack and rest, while I visited the Kyoto crafts’ museum. It is small in size, but has exhibits showing some 70 crafts practiced by artisans in Kyoto, including one fabric artist who was demonstrating her craft.

    Dinner was best one of the trip, at a one-star Michelin restaurant - a great finale. We were the only guests at this omakase restaurant where the chef and his assistant served a “kaiseke” dinner, featuring seasonal foods. It was mostly fish and vegetables, and every dish was fabulous - even the small grilled fish we ate in entirety - fish we saw alive towards the beginning of the meal! The chef and assistant shared information about the various dishes using google translate: they seemed to enjoy us as much as enjoyed them!    Read more

  • Judith RivlinJapan 2024Traveler
    Mt. Fuji
    Mt. Fuji with rice paddies in the foregroundOur last ramen in Tokyo

    Day 15: going home

    June 8, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We left the ryokan on Saturday at 6:30AM Tokyo time and expect to arrive at DCA just before 9PM of the same day, after a layover and flight change in LAX, something like 26/27 hours in transit! It’s 2pm as I write this in the Tokyo airport waiting to board our Zipair flight.

    On the train from Kyoto to Tokyo this morning, we caught several sightings of Mt. Fuji. It is a partly cloudy day so sometimes it was hidden from sight, making it even more exciting when it popped into view again!

    DCA: 8:35PM    Read more

    Trip end
    June 8, 2024
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