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Vietnam, 2.26
  • Judith Rivlin
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  • Judith Rivlin

Vietnam, 2.26

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    🇻🇳 Da Lat, Vietnam
    Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    View from the bus outside of Dalat
    The morning buffet: western and Vietnamese dishesBreakfast soup and egg stationUnfinished road after landslides damaged major roadLunch spot in Ho Chi Minh CityPhoNew high rise condos, especially for younger adultsOur hotel room in SaigonRooftop poolCity hall with uncle Ho in frontYear of the horseView from hotel's rooftop bar

    Thursday: Dalat to Ho Chi Minh City

    Yesterday in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    What was supposed to be a seven hour bus drive from Dalat turned out to be only about 5-6 hours, with a few stops along the way. The trip agenda had us flying between these two cities, but the government shut Dalat airport on March 1 to extend the runway so jets can start using it. So plan B was the bus ride. The drive included zig zagging down the mountainside. The road wasn’t entirely finished due to landslides (!) so we were on a bumpy dirt surface for short stretches. Henry told us Vietnam produces a lot of oil; at the same time oil supplies are threatened by the attacks in Iran and the Middle East, the government in Vietnam significantly lowered the price of fuel last night.
    Where it’s not developed for housing, most of the land is under cultivation with crops for its domestic market. When we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City - more commonly called “Saigon” - we went to Pho 24, a local chain restaurant for bowls of pho with shaved beef and meatballs,, bean sprouts and Thai basil. The weather here is more tropical, but less oppressive than it had been when I checked before we left from home, and thus better than expected: about 90 degrees with about 55% humidity. The city is bigger and more modern in feel than Hanoi, with many high rise buildings, and elegant stores, including Tiffany and Co, Hermes, and Tumi.
    This afternoon, most of us opted to go to the “war remnants museum” that tells the story of the Vietnam War starting with the French Occupation through the defeat of the South in April 1975. The exhibits included graphic photos about the effects of Agent Orange, descriptions of the My Lai Massacre and other war crimes, and post-war support from many nations to help repair the damaged countryside. Outside, there were munitions and American planes on display, as well. Though Henry told us that a prior trip participant complained about the content, it seemed pretty fair given the destruction our country effected.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Gerber daisy nurseryWeasel coffee nurseryWeasel at restWeasel coffeeWeavingGinger chicken1Artichoke soupAvocado ice creamUniversity student Mary and me

    Wednesday in Dalat

    March 11 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    It’s a beautiful sunny and temperate day in Dalat - low-mid 60’s. Everyone in our group opted in to the optional agricultural tour. Our first stop was at a flower nursery where they grow roses and Gerber daisies for the wholesale market. Then we went to a coffee nursery and learned about their special “weasel coffee”. It’s made from post-digested coffee beans that weasels expel! We tasted it and it was quite tasty. We saw where the 50 or so weasels are kept - in a large fenced area; they are fed a high protein diet and just exist without any demands. Then on to a small remote village where we visited with the chief and his wife, who was weaving beautiful wool cloth. For 4 days’ effort she sells a length of her weaving for $20. I really liked her products but couldn’t think of anyone who would want one. We also visited the village church that services the Roman Catholic population, with some 600 people attending services every Sunday. Our lunch today was one of my favorite meals: a fresh lettuce and tomato salad in vinaigrette, spring rolls, chicken in a gingery sauce, rice, steamed vegetables, artichoke soup, and a sliver of carrot cake. The meals have been quite similar to one another. I anticipated really good food and it has been fine but not exceptional.
    Responding to our group’s request, Henry took us to the number one avocado ice cream shop for an afternoon treat. We then visited Dalat University where we visited one on one with students eager to practice their English. I visited with Mary, a sophomore from Dalat who wants to be a secondary school English teacher.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Posters reminding everyone to vote on March 15; voting is mandatory
    The country has many colorful displays as part of the lunar new year celebrationsMusician from local tribeCrazy houseCrazy houseCrazy houseMore crazy house!View from fanciest hotel in DalatMeal out host family servedHost family with our group for dinner; kids ate separatelyKatie, Helen, Alex and EthanBike ride to promote western tourismMusical performanceMother in law performing

    Tuesday: Nha Trang to Dalat

    March 10 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Our bus trip today was about 4 hours on a winding mountain road, climbing to an altitude of about 5,000 feet to Dalat, a small but growing city originally developed by the French for an escape from the hot weather. The French influence is profound, with even new buildings built in the neoclassical style. They grow vegetables and flowers here and we saw endless greenhouses and fields of vegetables as we approached the hotel. We had lunch at a restaurant just outside of Dalat, and after our meal we enjoyed a musical performance by three members of a family who were dressed in their native garb and played instruments of their tribe. (There are 54 distinct tribes in Vietnam, with about 85% of the population being Viet). In the afternoon we toured the Crazy House - a fantastic house that’s also part hotel. It has three main “trunks”, with stairs going every which way and wild designs. It reminded me of Gaudi’s Casa Batllo in Barcelona. We saw much of it, but probably missed a lot too! It was built over a period of 30 years and the owner/designer still lives in it. Henry then gave us a short walking tour of the central part of the city, with drinks on the patio of the fanciest hotel, overtaking a large man-made lake. For dinner we were divided into groups of 5 with each group visiting a different family for a home cooked meal and conversation. I went to the home of a family consisting of a father who works at home for a company based in Canada, a mom who both writes and edits for a tv station and does beauty treatments, and an 8 yr son (Ethan) and 14 yr daughter (Helen). Helen was especially charming, and the best English speaker, having first picked it up from youtube as a small child. She also played the piano for us. The mother, Katie, does most of the cooking and told us she goes to local
    markets every morning. She served us a delicious dinner of shrimp, stewed pork and eggs (typical for the lunar new year), eggplant, snow peas and a clear vegetable soup - no dessert.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    View from our roomEnjoying my coconut milkRaising fighting cocks for sale to CambodiaSa Rum cocktail - like mojitoMark and me with our Sa RumsOur hostMaking chopsticks out of bambooWeavingMaking chopsticksLeading the way back to our bus after lunch

    Monday in Nha Trang

    March 9 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    This is a beach resort very different from anything we’ve seen - resembling Miami Beach! We rode on scooters again, first around town and then to visit a large Buddha on a hilltop, and then to meet two sisters who weave bamboo mats, where I took a turn weaving. We also enjoyed coconut milk directly from coconuts; this area is known for especially sweet coconuts. Our scooter ride ended 25 minutes later at a remote village where we visited a 70-year old woman in the front outside room of her home. (Here everyone tells you their age when you meet so you can use the appropriate honorary term to address them.) We made a yummy local version of mojitos called Sa Rum and then had lunch at her home. Before heading back to the hotel we stopped to watch another woman carve chopsticks from bamboo. She works on them for about 9 hours a day and earns $20, selling them wholesale to restaurants in town. Henry says that’s enough income to satisfy her basic needs as she doesn’t go out to eat.Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    The head of the dragon on the dragon bridge
    Dragon bridge - on a rare sunny dayJane and meJane and HenryLantern makingIn process2All of our finished lanternsTypical dessert-passion fruit, watermelon and pineapple. Also served on breakfast buffetsBahn Mi - for dinner from a special Anthony Bourdain Bahn Mi spotSign promoting upcoming election - colorful signs are everywhereJane, Kathleen and me crossing the dragon bridge in Danang

    Sunday: Hoi An to Nho Trang

    March 8 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today is mostly transportation, but some of us began the day at a lantern-making workshop, with a silk lantern to show for it. It was pretty foolproof and fun to craft under the guidance of the shop owner and her son. Before we checked out of the hotel, Henry hosted a meeting for us to ask questions we still have. He spoke about abortion (lawful through 4. Months), health care (free for children until age 6, and elderly above 80; insurance provided by employers and can be purchased), attitudes towards the government, litter, and more. Though his family is from the South and his father fought on the losing side, he explained how people appreciate what the government has provided for them. Not perfect, but overall positive feelings.
    In honor of International Women’s Day, Henry presented each of our 12 women with a red rose.
    We had lunch in Hoi An, and then headed to the airport, with a stop at the Dragon Bridge in Danang, that we traversed on foot. It’s quite stunning! We learned the design was the winner of a competition, and designed by an American team.
    About to take another flight South to Nho Trang.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler

    Saturday:Champa ruins near My Son

    March 7 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Visited ancient ruins from the Champa Kingdom ( 2d-15th centuries) at My Son Sanctuary. It was a Hindu and Buddhist religious center; though it is in ruins, it’s being restored and preserved. There was also a short dance and music show by members of the local Champa tribe presenting their traditional arts. See photos. For lunch we went to Streets, an NGO that helps disadvantaged youth gain skills in the hospitality industry. For about one year, they get health services, a place to live, English lessons, and skills in food prep. A charming recent graduate of the program gave us a demo of cooking rice noodles, and we had three different kinds of noodles for lunch. Then back to the hotel for free time, during which I went to “my tailor” for a fitting. I like one dress I ordered just for fun (a red linen shirtwaist) but am not very keen about the one I hoped to wear to Margot’s wedding. Oh well…it was worth trying. They pinned the lengths of both dresses and did other finishings, with the items all completed and delivered to the hotel by the evening!
    This afternoon and evening, six of us went on an optional excursion to visit vegetable gardens, the local market and a small cooking school where we made and ate our dinner:    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Japanese covered bridge
    Incense round, with message written inside for good luckMarketWater buffaloMaryHoia RiverSusan, the birthday gal in a new locally produced shirtBucket boatsBucket boat ride, with Jane - a real hoot!The lights are amazing!Dinner: pork skewers with Kim chi, vegetables and rice paper,Susan's birthday partyWater lanternsSo many boats!

    Friday: Hoi An

    March 6 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Hoi An has a central historic area closed to all traffic until 10 am and we enjoyed an early walking tour without having to compete with scooters or any vehicles. There’s also a push to use electric vehicles, so when not walking we rode open-sided electric carts. The city is smaller than other places we visited, but very touristy, and it’s known for being one of the best places for shopping in Vietnam. There are tailors galore, as well as leather and ceramics for sale.
    In the afternoon, everyone in our group opted to join an add-on activity which was a lot of fun. We first stopped for a visit with a 94-year old woman in her new house out of town for a chit chat. Then we got up close to a water buffalo and several members of our group got on his back. Next was a ride on small boat on the river, stopping to allow two at a time to ride in small “bucket” boats - see photos. The boat ride was also the site of a birthday party for Susan of our group. Henry had gotten her flowers and a cake; it was all very festive! Susan definitely felt spoiled and we all enjoyed celebrating with her. As it turned to dark, lights and lanterns of the river in Hoi A came to life. It was over the top and Disney-like, but fun. Making a wish, we each placed candle-lit floats into the river. Finally, we went for diner at a restaurant serving skewered pork, and pancakes, wrapped in rice paper. Very different from other meals and quite tasty! Another game of bridge at the hotel was a nice end to the day. .    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Taking a turn steering the boatAt the pagodaNuns taking a photo at the pagodaWater buffaloes having a siestaLunchApproaching Da NangFishing boats at Da NangBeach at Da Nang

    Thursday: Hue to Hoi An

    March 5 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    First activity was a ride in a dragon boat on the Huong (“Perfume”) River in Hue. A family owns and operates the boat, sell souvenirs and live on it, too. The father died in the recent floods after rescuing many other victims, Grey skies once again. 😬 We exited the boat at the Thien My Buddhist pagoda that we visited. For lunch we ate at a seafood restaurant overlooking a lagoon filled with oyster traps.
    Then drove to Hoi An, with a stop in big and scenic Da Nang, a prosperous city with high rise buildings, a lot of new construction and an active beach resort, with beach volleyball, surfing, and sun bathing. Many in our group had a coffee at Highlands, the Starbucks of Vietnam - there are also Starbucks stores, but Highlands dominates. The sun came out, there was a fresh breeze, and it wasn’t humid: first really nice weather we’ve had.
    On to historic Hoi An, where we will spend 3 nights. Along with a few others I went to a tailoring shop that our guide recommended, picked out fabric and got measured for 2 dresses, one of which I may wear to Margot’s wedding. At first I was a little disappointed at the selection of fabrics, but then decided if there had been more it could easily be overwhelming. It only took one hour to get the project started: two dresses and a little jacket. I plan to go back tomorrow for a fitting!    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Site of Viet cong attack during Tet offensive.Local touristsBricks manufactured at factory of family at Bat Trang, the ceramic townSeven year old emperor born in 1900MeIn rented traditional dressBuddhist nun we spoke withAt the Catholic orphanageHe came in for a big hugArtist with one of his works.The kings wine, made locally

    Wednesday in Hue

    March 4 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    We began the day with a visit to the Citadel, a large fortress surrounded by a moat with many palaces and temples, including the Imperial City at its center. The complex was built in the early 19th Century, damaged in the Indochina wars, and has since been largely restored. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site. As we saw in Japan, tourists rented and wore the traditional garb. .
    Next we visited a Buddhist nunnery for a vegetarian lunch and a group Q/A with one of the five nuns who live there. She talked about the requirements to become a nun and a bit about the lifestyle. Her only question for us was: “how do you measure your happiness”? Later this afternoon we visited a Catholic orphanage where 18 kids now live. Several have physical or mental disabilities, and some can neither speak nor hear. Two residents are accomplished artists who went to art school with financial support from an OAT-related 501 c3 organization. We met a charming little girl (not more than 3-4 years old) who sang several songs (heads, shoulders, knees and toes, and Frere Jacques, among others) and a large young man directly embraced one of the men in our group for a very long hug - very moving! Dinner out, ending with a taste of “the kings wine”, a strong brew made from rice liquor.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Climbing Ti TopAt the top, with a view of the many boats in Ha Long BayParade of returning from Ha Long Bay"Before""After"After - 2 from tomato and a carrotStep one of making the fish net1

    Tuesday: Ha Long Bay to Hue

    March 3 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The captain of our boat, Mr. Tam (= eight in Vietnamese) led us in Tai Chi class on the top deck of our boat as dawn was breaking. Then breakfast, after which most of our group took a small shuttle boat to another island with a man-made beach and a viewing spot at the top, a steep 400 steps up. We climbed up for better views, and then returned to our boat for the return trip, during which we watched one of the chefs demonstrate how he made some of the food art presented with our dinner last night: flowers out of cucumbers and a tomato, and a fish net from a huge carrot.
    The remainder of the day was mostly transportation, getting to Hue in central Vietnam - several hours of driving and an hour’s flight away. There was a full lunar eclipse visible in Vietnam tonight and those on the left of the airplane witnessed it - alas, I was on the other side and saw nothing.    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Rice
    Ha Long BayView from our cabin2Crew carving dramatic food decorationsWithin the caveOur boatFood art1

    Monday: Ha Noi to Ha Long Bay

    March 2 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We left Ha Noi this morning and drove for over 4 hours to beautiful Ha Long Bay. The road passed through many rice patties, with some farmers at work stooped over and working with hand tools . We also passed by an area being developed by “Mr. Instant Noodle Man”, a Vietnamese entrepreneur we keep hearing about. For this project, he is building a new city for 300,000 people out of nothing. . At Ha Long Bay our group got on boat, and motored for about an hour, passing the odd-shaped rocky hills that litter the Bay. There are lots of other boats doing the same thing. Like on dry land, I am struck by how much litter is everywhere. Most of us went by tender to hike into and through dramatic caves. Before dinner, a woman on our trip treated us to a show about her cousin who was the first woman elected to Congress in the early 20th Century. It was a great story and she told it well. Another good dinner with dramatic food art - see photos. More bridge tonight.Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Replica of gift Vietnam presented to Obama when he visited
    The shop keeper, many generations pursuing ceramicsMy creationCarrot soup with gingerStreet haircutKitchen and bathroom shared by 2 families, and previously 20Marsha and Jane with their driversWith my driver, LeeTrain street, in anticipationJane scooting around HanoiOur group awaiting the trainSusan and Brian leading us through alleys81 year old "second grandfather" of scooter leader entertaining usHere comes the trainScooting around Hanoi. I'm in the grey shirt on the right

    Sunday in/around Hanoi

    March 2 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    This morning we left the city to visit Bat Trang, a village famous for its ceramics. We heard about the long history of ceramics in this village - and how they now must buy clay instead of just pulling it from the river’s edge - because of too much erosion. We visited two homes and learned about both the local ceramics industry and the land reform of 1953. I hadn’t realized in how many ways Vietnam followed experiences of the Chinese revolution. At the second home we got our hands dirty: we had 10 minutes to make something using small manual wheels. The proprietor awarded me a clay bracelet for being the best artisan in our group 😉. Returning to Hanoi, after another good lunch (ending with one of our few desserts), Jane and I each had a whole body massage (about $20, including tip - about 70 minutes, good/not great), while Mary enjoyed a foot massage. Then we took off for an add-on adventure: riding scooters (or Soviet jeeps) with local guides. We scooted around much of the city - which is actually beginning to look and feel familiar - from high end neighborhoods to poorer working class ones. We went into one multi-family building and saw a small kitchen and bathroom that are now shared by two families but used to be shared among 20! Aside from experiencing being in the middle of the street traffic, another highlight of the scooter adventure was going to the “train street,” where you sit inches (literally!) from where the train going from Hanoi to Saigon (and vice versa) passes by! It’s a local “thing”. For the driving, I was glad to have a mask as the exhaust is pretty intense; the driving part wasn’t scary. I’m sure it helped that we had already been in the city for several days and have gotten accustomed to the street scene - in fact we didn’t see any accidents, nor dented vehicles over our 5 days in Hanoi.Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    2Racks of rice paper wrappings set out to dryTypical architecture: tall narrow buildings without side windows1

    Tho Ha village

    February 28 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Today we left Hanoi to visit the village Tho Ha, about an hour’s drive away for what OAT calls “Day in the Life.” It’s intended to give us an idea of everyday life for a Vietnamese family. Our first stop was a local market: our group was divided into teams of 5. Each team had to buy any three items, using Vietnamese to ask what the item is and how much it costs, and then take a selfie with the seller. My team bought oranges, onions and a seasonal vegetable called “milk tomatoes”. We then took a very basic ferry to cross a river to visit Tho La, a village that specializes in making rice paper for spring rolls. There were racks of rice paper everywhere! We watched one family make large rice crackers with sesame seeds, and then another family that made the outer layer of spring rolls. Several of us tried making/cooking the rice paper, and then we all wrapped spring rolls, that the family fried and served as part of our lunch. After returning back to the hotel, Jane and I took a cab to the Temple of Literature, a complex from the year 1070 dedicated to higher learning. The grounds are relatively quiet and it offers sanctuary in the middle of the busy city, For dinner tonight, a few of us joined Henry for snail soup at a nearby street shop. The soup includes rice noodles, thinly cut beef, whole and chopped snails, and seasonings. Another $4 dinner!Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    1

    Hanoi highlights - Friday

    February 27 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Our first destination today was the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. Even though he left clear instructions that he wanted his body to be cremated with the ashes distributed around the country - once you die, you lose your voice! - upon his death in 1969, “Uncle Ho” was embalmed by Soviet doctors and his body lies within this imposing building. Doctors from Russia apparently have special technology to preserve his body and 2 days each week (including Fridays, when we visited) the building is closed to allow the doctors to care for the body. Our guide used the site to talk about the government. They have elections every five years, with elections coming up next month. The leadership is overwhelmingly dominated by members of the communist party. After visiting this property we stopped off for a local specialty “egg coffee”. The recipe is secret, but the coffee has a sweet topping presumably incorporated an egg yolk. Because of my caffeine sensitivity I opted for egg chocolate - but wasn’t impressed. After that we had a group lunch and then had time to do what we wanted for a few hours. I went with Jane (and Carol from AZ) to the women’s museum. We didn’t have enough time to do it justice, but we learned about different traditions of birthing, marriage customs, and women’s tasks, and saw clothing and costumes of different ethnic groups within the country. Later this afternoon, our group went to learn about water puppets and to see demonstrations from a family that has been making the puppets and performing for many generations. They carve the puppets out of fig wood in their home; the home also includes a small theater, with the stage consisting of a pool of water. The wife explained how the men make the puppets, and we went upstairs for a show. It was both fun and funny, with animals and characters popping up out of the water to dance or fight. See the attached clips. After we saw several skits, the wife/puppeteer came out from behind the curtain to show us the puppets. We then had a chance to handle them ourselves. Our last stop was supper at a simple noodle place, Bun Cha, that serves barbecue pork in broth with rice noodles. The meal, with beer cost $4. It was quite tasty and has even been recognized by Michelin. Its major claim to fame is that Obama and Anthony Boudain supped there many years ago - their table and bowls remain preserved behind plastic like a museum! Back at the hotel several of us played bridge in the lobby for about an hour. A long and fun day!Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Sticky rice treats for the Nrw Year
    Jane enjoying a sticky rice treatIn the old quarter, with French architecture now subdivided for 4-5 familiesOur group outside the Hoi lo prisonGuillotineAmerican POW's, including John McCain on right, coming homeTour guide Henry on a Xich-loPumpkin soup with cinnamonFlowing traffic

    Beginning the OAT adventure

    February 26 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This morning we met our tour guide, Henry, and our fellow travelers. Henry took us on a walk around the immediate neighborhood of our hotel, and instructed us on the safe way to cross the busy Hanoi streets. Henry invited folks to join him for a noodle soup lunch (though his intended destination remained closed in connection with the Lunar New Year) but we chose to instead use the time to visit Hoa Lo Prison, a/k/a the “Hanoi Hilton”, the prison where the French jailed and tortured Vietnamese revolutionaries in the first half of the 19th century and where captured American POW’s were sent during the “American war”. Obviously, the information was told from the victorious Vietnamese perspective and it was a pretty tame recitation despite the US aggressions.
    Later, we went on a “Xich lo” ride - rickshaw carrying just one passenger each. Then dinner at the KOTO restaurant (know one, teach one) - a social justice program for young disadvantaged students who are trained in the culinary arts and related hospitality industry jobs. Over 1700 students have gone through the training and many have won many national and international awards. The food was delicious!    Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Breakfast
    Florist making deliveriesEntrance to templeJane with preserved giant turtle - only 6 remain anywhereLocal beauties having funDinner: tilapia in banana leafLook both ways!

    Wednesday in Hanoi

    February 25 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    We woke up early, enjoyed the morning breakfast buffet (with both Vietnamese and western foods) and then set out by foot to explore the area. The hotel is in the “old quarter,” with some large government buildings and many small streets with everyday services. We both wanted to get pedicures and went to a nearby salon recommended by the hotel. Though it was much less expensive than at home (about $16), the experience wasn’t great: communications were a challenge, it took too long, and both of us were cut by our respective beautician. Oh well! We also walked to the large lake in central Hanoi that is both a popular gathering place for locals and home to a Confucian temple built in 1800. The area was lively with equal numbers of local and foreign tourists. Dinner was at a small nearby restaurant. We shared tilapia cooked in banana leaf and simple chicken with vegetables: $16 total. The street action everywhere seems chaotic, but somehow works - though pedestrians must be wary! Crosswalks aren’t more than street drawings, and there are few stop signs or stoplights. Many intersections have no stop signs nor any system for prioritizing traffic, so vehicles (2/3 motorcycles, with balance divided between cars and bicycles) just honk and go, weaving their way across. Didn’t see any accidents but it’s harrowing to walk along or cross the street! We will meet the rest of our group tomorrow morning.Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    1

    Arrive Vietnam, Day one Hanoi

    February 24 in Taiwan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    As planned, Jane and I met up in the Taipei airport, having come from visits to our respective CA-based baby grandsons. The flights were long and I didn’t sleep much, but doesn’t seem to be a problem. Overcast, mild day. Lots of motorcycles. Walking in the immediate area of our hotel wasn’t a problem (traffic and safety comfort wise) when I ventured out solo tonight to find a bite for supper- got a chicken Banh Mi- while Jane rested. The area is lively and not fancy, with many tourists.Read more

  • Judith RivlinVietnam, 2.26Traveler
    Leaving home to get Leo
    Leo graduating out of the NICU with his proud and happy parentsLeo arriving home for the first timeSarah cuddling with Leo - with the hat Michelle knitted for himYours truly, Nana, taking a turn holding LeoThe proud papa, chilling with Leo1The new family celebrating their first full day together

    California stop

    February 20 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    In January, I planned to go to Vietnam from SF in order to see the Berkeley family and to break up the travels - and to stop back in CA on the journey back to MD. Fortuitously, the morning after I arrived in SF, it was time for baby Leo to leave the hospital (after 6.5 weeks in the NICU) and come home to Sarah and Matt’s Berkeley apartment. My timing couldn’t have been better! Sarah, Matt and Leo are starting figuring it all out at home, and I’m offering background support. Leo is doing very well, and eating like a champ! I’m staying in a studio apartment just around the corner. All good so far! Tomorrow night is when I take off for Vietnam - meeting my traveling companion Jane at the airport in Taipei, before we fly together to Hanoi.Read more

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    February 22, 2026
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