• Andrea Eberly
  • Michael Metzger
  • Andrea Eberly
  • Michael Metzger

Veneto, Italy 2024

En 18-dags äventyr från Andrea & Michael Läs mer
  • Resans start
    5 april 2024

    Ready for takeoff!

    5 april 2024, Förenta staterna ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We’re hanging out in the kid zone while waiting to board our flight. Is. Is really into the baby in the mirror. Annika meanwhile is playing with Grandma Julie.

    This will be Ian’s first flight. He recently discovered how to squeal and yell. Wish us luck!Läs mer

  • Landed in Venice

    6 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We finally arrived at the Venice airport at about five o clock. All of our bags made it this year! And the kids were amazing travelers. However this did not mean the trip was without the sweet sounds of children losing their minds. We were surrounded by harpy banshee kids on all sides.
    As usual my manual rental car was upgraded to an automatic. This happens basically 100% of the time. Do I look like I’m that bad at stick shift? And we figured out how to fit all the luggage in. Oddly the car appears to have been in a hail storm. It’s covered in hundreds of dents on all sides except the right hand door. With our luck that’ll be the side I run into a rock wall.
    Läs mer

  • Arrived at Il Castello

    6 april 2024, Italien ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    We drove to Negrar, where we rented a place called Il Castello, and since it was already almost nine at night and we didn’t have reservations anywhere, we just decided to get pizza take out down the road at 18 15 Pizza Sfizi. (I should add that we did attempt a restaurant and I was able to use the Italian I’ve been learning to have this cool exchange “Good evening. We do not have a reservation.” “Then we have no spaces” “Okay. Goodbye.”) Anyway the take out joint was good. Wood fired. We watched the pizzas cook in about three minutes. Oven must have been like 900 degrees. And with that our first day closed almost before it began. So far so good — the right side of the car is injury free.Läs mer

  • Fumane Cave: Neanderthal site

    7 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    We drove up the valley one over from Negrar to visit an ongoing archaeological site where they’ve found both Neanderthal and Homo sapien artifacts. Grotta di Fumane. The tour was led by a graduate student who was writing her PhD on the site. The cave has been used by humans going back around 100,000 years. There was about 1000 years worth of time between the two species, so they never overlapped. It was pretty cool to see the layers. We saw a couple bones sticking out.
    There was a Trattoria near the cave. We spied on the family before us to see what they ordered. The bartender poured some green stuff in a glass and added mineral water—apparently Italian sodas really are a thing here!—and she went into the back to cut some slices off a long brown thing. When she served it to the family I realized it was chocolate salami. A firm chocolate paste with little pieces of cookie in it. Anyway, we copied them. Annika had her first Italian soda. She tried it mixed with sparkling mineral water and natural. Turns out she’s not into sparkles with the mint.
    On the way home to make dinner we stopped for gelato. We managed to get mom to get a flavor other than lemon.
    Läs mer

  • Negrar Monday Market

    8 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Mondays is market day in Negrar. You can buy all sorts of things here. Clothes and household goods. Fruits band vegetables. Cheeses and even fried seafood! Annika really moved the tiny whole fried anchovies. We bought some radicchio and will try to make risotto as the green grocer recommended. Sadly by time we remembered to buy bread (around eleven) all the bakeries were sold out!Läs mer

  • Sirmione

    9 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today we got up early and went to the southern tip of Lake Garda to see the ruins of a huge Roman villa. We also wandered around the little walled city center and took a short cruise to get a view of the ruins from the lake.Läs mer

  • Da Andrea

    9 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We went out for dinner for the first time at a little family run trattoria in the center of the village of Negrar. Obviously it has the best name ever. Even if Andrea is a dude’s name in Italy. We’d made a reservation yesterday during the market. The man, who had long grey hair, told us to come back today at 7:30. So tonight we parked in the middle of Negrar on the main road that leads to the church and walked to the restaurant that is tucked behind it. There were literally no lights on. We thought it was closed but then the door opened and the man appeared and he motioned with his hand for us to enter. He took us to a back area near the kitchen out of the main dining room (which is small! Maybe six tables??). There are two tables in this second area. One has an old man sitting at it and he’s drinking water. We were delighted with our table. Squeals and other baby noises won’t bother so many guests and we can relax. The cameriere (waiter) lists the first and second course options and we have to choose! Mom and I ordered the tagliatelle with beef sauce (no tomato or butter or olive oil—not sure what all was in it other than probably some wine?). Michael orders these dumplings made of bread, egg, spinach, grano padano, and some sausage. Then after the waiter goes to the kitchen to get our orders in (we believe only his wife was in the kitchen cooking) we realize we didn’t order Annika any food. Oops. So we order tagliatelle, but only with butter. She’s afraid of sauce. But then ours comes out and she tries it and loves it so we fortunately had time to switch her order to the meat sauce version. Michael ordered a second course of rabbit and polenta. The sauce was a carrot, onion butter concoction. Excellent. Poor Michael is dying trying to be polite and remove meat from tiny bones with his knife and fork. The waiter says “I usually eat rabbit with my hands”. What a polite way to let Michael know it was cool to just grab that thing and gnaw the meat off. I tried the meat. It was excellent. I think we have to go back.Läs mer

  • Padua part 1

    10 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We drove to Padua for the day. About 90 minutes (more in morning rush hour while playing truck slalom on the autostrada). We started at the museum of natural history and then had lunch at the oldest cafe in town, Cafe Pedrocchi. Annika is a big fan for museums about historyLäs mer

  • Bolca: Well, this is Italy!

    11 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    In 1998 I moved to Germany to live with a family for year. During the first month I was living with them, they took me with on their annual vacation to Italy--the Lake Garda area. I recall my host father going hiking and coming back with a shell fossil. So fast forward 25 years (I actually cannot believe it has been that long!) and we're going to be staying within a half hour of Lake Garda. So I look to see if there is anything having to do with fossils around Negrar. I stumble on Bolca and its museum of fossils, a little over an hour from Il Castello. Many stunningly well preserved fish and palms dating from 50 million years ago come from that site. It has been in the same family for many hundreds of years, and in fact the same family maintains the museum and the fossil site to this day. Certainly you can see many wonderful Bolca specimens in Padua, but I wanted to check out Bolca because there you can try you hand at cracking rocks and also entering the cave from which the specimens were found. Way back in February I filled out an internet form and in my halting Italian asked if we could visit the site on April 11. Massimo Cerato said yes! Vi Aspettiamo! (we wait for you!)
    So we make the 70 minute drive up up up to the town of Bolca. At the last few miles we're following a small car going pretty slow around the last few hairpin turns. It turns into the parking lot in front of us. We are the only two cars in the lot. The two guys in the other car have photography equipment--they seem to me there to make images of specimens.
    So we are, arriving at the museum on Thursday April 11th right around 2:30pm just like that email from early February. And when we walk up to the ticket counter ask about going to the fossil site they look at us like we're crazy. It is only open on Saturday and Sunday! No one is waiting for us! My Italian is poor but I do mention that I have an email from the museum. At this point one of the photographers comes over and since he speaks better English than my Italian he helps communicate. He sees the email, confirms what it says, goes over to others, who I presume are members of the family, and shows them the email. Now everyone is talking rapidly and what I can hear over and over again is the name Massimo. Massimo was the one who had emailed us...and of course he was not around today. (of note, Massimo does have the last name of the family) Anyway, they clearly feel bad about what has happened and offer to let us see the museum free of charge. The photographer shrugs his shoulders and says "Well, this is Italy!" as a way of explanation. But the chapter isn't over. The family is still chatting and two new dudes appear and the photographer helps interpret that they will take us to the cave after all! So they take us to the site, show us how to hit the rocks to open them up (they make it look easy) and we spend some time trying to find fossils (we're really bad at it) before they take us to the excavation site. They give Annika some semi precious stones, give us some fossil leaves and shark teeth and really made us feel welcome. So I suppose, this is also Italy. We met such kindness.
    Not sure Massimo will meet kindness tonight. haha.
    Läs mer

  • Wine tasting at Le Marognole

    12 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Today we drove over to a neighboring valley to visit a winery. Mom doesn’t drink but was interested to learn about the process. Valpolicella uses several grapes— Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella. The classic wine is fermented fresh (the juice is used right away) whereas for the Amarone, the grapes are dried until about half the water is gone then the concentrated juice is fermented until dry. Traditionally these dried grapes were for a dessert wine (Recioto) but in the 1930s someone accidentally didn’t stop fermentation. Amarone was born. The wine is full bodied and high in alcohol. Surprisingly the wine is not hot. We started in the grape drying room, then passed on to the fermentation rooms with their stainless-steel tanks and ended in the historic cellar. From there we saw a part of the vineyard while we tasted the wine then we saw the new cellar. It seems like many of these growers used to sell grapes to big producers but in the last twenty or so years they now keep their grapes for their own wines. On our way home we visited an amazing salumeria for getting some cold cuts and cheese.Läs mer

  • Brescia part 1

    14 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Annika enjoyed the museums at Padua so we decided to head to Brescia. Back in 1998 I went there with my host family. I recall seeing the Capitolium but not much else. Turns out the city really has a lot to offer. Beautiful old town, cool ruins, some nice eating.Läs mer

  • Aquardens!

    16 april 2024, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Thermal baths just aren’t really a thing in the US. I finally realized what is so odd about them…no life guards!! And this place was huge. So many pools and places to relax, both indoor and outdoors. The water was 35 C which is really comfortable. With the package we bought the adults got to go into the spa area. So Michael and I decided to check it out while Ian napped with Mom. We had to change out of our normal bathing suits and into some weird disposable bathing suit that was heat proof. The woman at the desk said we could join a “ritual” if we wanted to. We had no idea what this meant. Anyway I noticed there is a schedule on the wall and that it is nearly time for the Nordic relaxation ritual in the Russian bath. Whatever that meant. Then Michael noticed a little basket that was supposed to have tokens. It appeared all of the tokens were gone, but then we noticed behind the sign that two remained. I quickly grabbed them. Right then a couple people came over also trying to get tokens. Tough luck for them. We followed the herd of people all in their weird disposable bathing suits to the Russian baths dropped our tokens in the basket and entered. The dude leading the “ritual” says a bunch of stuff really fast in Italian and I catch a list of essential oils and that it will last twelve minutes. He and this other dude then put what looks like a snow ball on the hot rocks and the room fills with scents. Pleasant. They then start to wave flags. Weird. The point of it appears to be to waft the scent around. Okay. That’s nice. And then it starts to get real. The real purpose is to redistribute heat. And this thing is hot like the goddam sun. By the end Michael and I (and all the other people) are drenched in sweat and I thought my contact lens would fuse to my eyeballs while my skin would burst into flame. At one point I felt cold almost because I think my nerves were totally whacked. Oh yeah and this really loud German language music was playing. So weird. But I did feel great by the end of it. Since we only had about forty five minutes to spend in the spa this was totally the way to go. Overall we spent about eight hours at the complex and it was a great day!Läs mer

    Resans slut
    22 april 2024