Scotland. Stones & Whiskey

September - October 2016
A 28-day adventure by Diane Read more
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  • 3countries
  • 28days
  • 162photos
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  • 11.3kmiles
  • 9.5kmiles
  • ABQ before we left.

    September 3, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    We are flying American Airlines over and will have legs on British Airline from Heathrow to Glasgow and all the way back to Chicago. I was worried that I couldn’t reserve seats on BA but resigned myself that I would just take what fate provides. We did purchase the extra leg room from US to Heathrow on AA when we purchased our tickets in July. Afterwards, I received an e-mail from AA with an offer to have a temporary upgrade  through Dec ‘16, which I couldn’t turn down. We also spent the $$s and have signed up for Global Entry, which seems to be giving us TSA Pre. So, now I notice we are Platinum on AA (from my previous flights to UK I am now almost a ½ million miler!). I was able to get the exit row for the domestic flight without extra charge and  it looks like the flight from Heathrow to Glasgow is in isle 1!  So far, so good!

    I have spent the day translating information on the better sites to the GPS chips and compiling the things-one-could-do list. So far we have airline tickets, 2 nights lodging in Glasgow and a rental car 2 days after we land. The rest we will wing while we are there. Time to pack bags!

    Looking forward to the sites around Scotland
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  • Day 1

    Glasgow --Before Arrival

    September 4, 2016 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F

    Well, so much for good travel carmen. After yesterday with many travel issues., I am not sure what lies ahead.

    We arrived at the ABQ airport and enjoyed TSA pre, but but by the time we arrived at Dallas, our good carmen seems to have disolved. Our flight to London was delayed to what turned out to be 4 hours. Luckily, yesterday at breakfast, our daughter remined us that with status, we were allowed to enjoyed the American Airline Lounge. So when we arrived, there we went with coupons for free drinks. Not sure what happened to the flight, but we eventually found out that they swapped our flight for another one coming in from another desitnation that would need to be cleaned before departure. We enjoyed the free wifi and good seating. We struck up a conversation with a freelancer who used to work with in LA with Direct TV.

    Finally, we were off and on to new adventures in UK
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  • Day 2

    Arrived in UK

    September 5, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Well, we were hoping for a great flight, which for the most part it was. New airlines now have a pelefera of movies to watch while in flight. We may have had about 3-4 hrs of sleep with a meager breakfast.

    Nearing London, we ended up circling for 0.5 hrs while we waited for weather to stabilize. Then as we thought we were going to land, the plane pushed full throttle an went around for another try. We found out later, that the plane was unable to achieve full flaps and was required to run thorough an emergency checklist to land with alternate checklist without full throttle....of course, we only heard about that after we landed.

    We were able to figure out how to finally transfer through Heathrow, but by the time we landed, we had already missed 2 flights. We were able to get on a flight about 1330 instead of the first 9.:50 flight. We ended up dozing to Glasgow but finally made it to the town of destination. We tried to pick up an UBER, but without a local telephone nuber we were unable find a ride, so we ended up with a taxi to the hotel.

    Hotel is okay, Looks like the bath is updated, but the carpet is in need of upgrade as the matress. That did not stop us from sleeping more than 12 hrs when we finally laid down to sleep. But before that, we walked to the West to try to find a store to pick up a chip for our unlocked phone. However, they pointed us to the East end to St Enoch's square. We hopped on the subway, found a chip and then found a small pub for a beer and appetizers before we found our way back to the hotel. We ended up having a glass of wine at the restauarnt below th hotel with a shared pizza.
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  • Day 3

    another day in Glasgow

    September 6, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    I'm a little behind in the blog so my information might be a little thin until I get a chance to have quality time to go back to write about the days in more detail and include better pictures

    After 12hours sleep we ended up at the Kelvingrove museum about a mile away. The most impressive piece was the Dali of Christ on the Cross. Many exhibits showcased Scottish artists, understandably. We stayed to hear the pipe organ recital and then walked down to the museum of transportation where they showcased all sorts of means of transportation from boats to trains, cars, ambulances, wheel chairs, subway, horse drawn carriages, motorcycles to crashed vehicles!

    Then back to the hotel by way of a small pub. Dinner was tapas just down the street. Spent most of the rest of the evening working out what to do and where to stay.
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  • Day 4

    Decided to skip Edinbergh until later

    September 7, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    After struggling to find a place to stay in Edinburgh, we decided to punt and plan better for the tour of the city at the end of the trip. Reserve soon and stay later. Weather is good today but will deteriorate tomorrow. So off we went to pick up the car. Seems like the deal is better than I had thought but will wait to see what the actual charges are at the end.

    Diane decided to drive first. Not as bad as first drive in Ireland. Must have been a bit better. Peter was not sucking air and clutching the console as much this trip

    Drove up to the Falkirk wheel about 45 min out of town to see this giant ferris wheel like thing transporting canal boats from one canal at one level to another. Pretty ingenious device

    Then on to Crieff, summer resort area. We arrive in time for the last tour/tasting at Famous Grouse. Very interesting. We had a wee sip of 2 types of whiskey and brought home the remaining tasting in special containers to savor later. Found our B&B and walked up the hill to find something to eat. Not much to eat today: piece of cheese and bread from the shops last Eve and a shared sandwich at lunch. Boy! We sure will be tired of white bread after this trip! Dinner a shared pizza and a rocket salad. Found my favourite chocolate covered ginger cookies at the shop next door that I enjoyed in the early-mid 2000s when I was over here on business in Guilford
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  • Day 5

    Pitchitsh Stones in the Rain

    September 8, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Intermittent rain through the night to light rain by morning. By the time we were ready to load up, it was raining pretty hard. We encountered heavy/light intermittent rain until the end of the day when the Sun actually came out for a wee bit. Diane elected to drive again today again.

    Continental breakfast of OJ, instant coffee, brown wonder bread and butter with a yogurt. Enough to get us by until lunch, which we had in Pitlochey at a fish and chips place. A gigantic piece of cod. We must have arrived just before a tour bus unloaded. Okay, but we are just not quite used to fried food, but thought we should at least try once.

    The focus of the day was Pitchtish stones. [https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pictish_stone ] We started with one as the little spot in the map outside of Crieff called Fowlis Wester. Raining hard, but still had a chance to examine their replica n the center of a few houses. The original and another stone were in the church but we traveled on due to the rain without venturing inside. The next one was also in the little spot on the map, Dunfallany near Pitlochey. Very interesting stone, but to protect it, it was contained in a shelter with plexiglass. But it was raining so we also had some shelter. It had a commanding view of the red Scottish cows and pastures, but was not in the original location. Then on to Meigle where we paid for a year's membership to the Historical Society of Scotland to cover entry here and to many other interesting future sites under protection by the society. The Meigle museum [ https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meigle_Sculptur…] had several in what had been an old shool house until the late 1800's. Very interesting set of stones, some fully intack, others partial pieces. Mound grave in the church grave yard purported to be of King Arthur's Genevierre. Then on to the stone in the ruined church at Essie [ https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eassie_Stone ]. We travled down the road looking ro the next one in Glamis, but when I made a miss turn into the Glamis Castle at the end of the day, we were encouraged not to visit it since it was on the property of an older man who probably had some type of dementia. With all of our travels, we were a little sad that thest important stone to the local people had been moved from their original placement, somehow robbing them of their spirituality and purpose.

    So on we went to Forfar where we found a nice B&B run by Pat and Bill MacDonald so we could settle for the night [thank goodness for the cell phone and the ablity to google at the end of the day. How much we take that all for granted]. After a nice chat with the owners, we went down to The Stag at the corner for dinner. Lodging was 60 pounds, but at least tonight our room was en suite instead of shared with 2 other rooms and comes with full Scottish breakfast (but we declined the black & white pudding (blood sausage)). Dinner was a steal since we arrived and ordered before 6:30. An appetizer and main or main and dessert was 11 pounds so we had an appetizer of pate and oat biscuits with chutney, beef "pie" (stew) with puff pastry and broccoli and carrots, and a dessert of a type of mouse on top of sponge cake with berries all for 22 pounds.

    Bill is in a tournament with his local club that is down to the semi-finals. Peter was quite jealous: Bill is paying 12 pounds a round as part of his tournamet. Bill mentioned watching groups of most likely Americans today, each of the four in each of 3 parties each with caddies trying to make the best of the rain today, while his club opted to wait for a less rainly day for which to finish the tournament. Bill estimated about $1k each person for the soaking experience.

    More rain in the schedule for tomorrow, but perhaps a break mid-day. Plan is to work our way through more pictish stones (Miffen Museum in Forfar, Aberlemno, and St Vigeans in Anrbroath), iron age high peak forts (White and Brown Caterthun) and other antiquites as we work our way up to Aberdee. Not sure if we will make it all the way to Aberdee or perhaps Stonehaven, but not venturing into a big city unless we absolutely need to do so.
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  • Day 6

    More Pitcitsh Stones Near Perth-Arbroath

    September 9, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Room was nice, but the bed a bit hard. Up for breakfast by 8:30. Stout Scottish breakfast with 2 pieces of bacon (ham), 2 of sausage, a fried egg, small tomato--halved and some homemade toast in a rack (cold). French press coffee today! We ate breakfast with another couple about 80 yrs who were from the North coast near Petershead. They had been down for a day to ride their bikes along the canals at Falkirck. They have bikes with electric assist due to their age.We had been warned by the cab driver in Glasgow that the norther dialects were hard for him to understand and we found they were a challenge to us as we were to them.

    We had a bit of a delayed start as we lingered to chat with Pat whislt Bill when off to his tournament about 10am. Pat and Bill have been supporting lodgers for 30 some years, especially in the early years to make ends meet. They also lodged quited a few walkers on the cross country paths until hoof & mouth disease became a problem in the mid-2000's. Now they are helping put a family member through an English college for a year or two. No sign out front, just a website put up by one of the 2 sons. [ http://www.bandb.strathdeveron.co.uk]

    Off we went then to "downtown" forfar to visit the local museum with Pictish stones [ http://www.angus.gov.uk/directory_record/174/me…]. Nice small museum with several examples of Pitctish stones as well as some Roman artifacts.Then on to Arblemno for more Pictish stones near the old church. Weather was quite nice. At least not raining, so on we went to Arbrorath to see more Pictish stones..

    There are a number of stones at a small cottage across the street from St Vigean's church, visible by appt only. We called about noon and found there would be a tour at 2pm so we were in luck.The other tour was about a 1/2 hour behind us, so we had the small building to ourselves with the docent to start. Good thing, the tour was a bus load of international high school students who had just come from Arbroath Abbey [ https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arbroath_Abbey] .

    We went on to the abbey since we were there and could get in with our Historical pass. A very large abbey [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/arbroath/…] , bigger than most that we had seen in Ireland, but in a poor state of repair due to the Reformation in the 1500's. Never-the-less, still very impressive and only housed about 40 monks. Many of the stones had been harvested to build buildings within Arbroath after the Reformation The docent at St Vigean's also worked at the abbey, and she was able to sell to us a few bits and bobs to bring home.

    By now, it was 4pm and we could see there were thicker clouds and darkness approaching. So we opted for finding a place to stay since it was Friday night. We initially tried for a place that overlooked the North Sea and a golf course, but it was full. The owner directed us back into town and on our second try, we found a small room (en-suite) in a very historic building (1745) [ http://www.harbournights.co.uk].

    We went off to a local pub recommended by Bill, the owner, for dinner as lunch was a shared cup of coffee and a few Walkers shortbread biscuits at the abbey. Seafood paella and a lasanga with a bottle of wine. They also had an early bird special, but selection was more limited than the night before and we didn't need the calories. We sat next to a family of a mid-20's gal and Mom and Grandma who were having a meal before the youngest went off to college in Aberdeen to study occupational therapy. Grandmom was from Cork, with daughter here and 2 sons in the States. Interesting to eaves drop and hear the Mom tell the Daugherty that when she was young and first working, she was sorting tulip or daffodil bulbs.

    We worked on the next stops last eve and started to have a panic as it seemed like there was not enough time to see everything without rushing already. But by morning, we realised that we had shorted ourselves by a week of the trip. So not so bad. Looking ahead, it looks like 3 days of better weather, so it will be a good day to the up to the 2 iron age defensive forts near Brechin before heading north further to Aberdeenire, Our theme for the past 2 days has been Pictish stones, but we are now starting to move into more stone circles and whiskey tasting areas before we get to Inverness.
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  • Day 7

    Saturday we change themes and move NE

    September 10, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Well, the hotel was nice enough, but the bed was the hardest yet, so no quality sleeping yet. The owner appologized for one of the guests from US who was an ex-marine and former figher fighter from the East coast, who was pretty opinionated and lound. We sat next to them at the breakfast table were we had a lovely Scottish breakfast, did not talk politics and wished them well on their way as we left.

    Today was a lovely day. Started out 51 deg with 100% humidity, but soon the Sun popped out and we had a little blue sky. Tomorrow is purported to be the same with rain coming in late Monday eve. We will enjoy it while it lasts! Might get back up to 70 deg on Tues!

    Today we drove down SW along the coast to find a couple of what is called sourterrains, or burried storage rooms from pre-0AD for the local residents. We vsited 3 NW of Dundee: Arestie, Carlungie and Tealing [ http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=5951, http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=5950, http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=913…]. The first two were a bit difficult to locate, but we stoped 2 ladies riding horseback to ask for directions. All Three very interesting and a bit different. Thought to perhaps be storage for food stuffs for the Roman army. Must have been slightly warmer then as the houses were just conic treed dewelings set above ground instead of beind partially in ground for better warmth.

    At the Tealing souterraine, we stopped for a while to chat with a family who recently had purchased part of the farm buildings from an old estate. Gary was retired RAF who was modifying the old dairy to be their home. The old estate Dovecott was next to his property as well as the Tealing sourterrain. He gave us a tour of the original estate ice house where they stored ice and hung meat. He said that there was no really good place locally to cut ice, but that some of the ice had come off the boats bringing back fish from Nova Scotia! The Dovecott was a 1500's building where they raised large doves for food and eggs through the winter. The inside was full of nesting boxes on all walls. The Souterrain was the longest and deepest that we saw today. An older stone slab wth pecked concentric circles frm a much earlier time had been reused as part of the passage oppening.

    Then off to the White and Brown CATERTHUNS (iron age "forts") set up on high hills [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/bridgend/…] . We only climbed to the top of the White for a view as it was the most impressive. Not really defensive, but a massive amount of stone to make the walls that were carried from somewhere. Great views out to the North Sea from there as well as pretty much 360 deg panprama.

    Peter started to drive from there and we went over hlll and dale as we moved up towards Inveruie, outside of Aberdeen. Seemed like a lot of city folks in cars and motorcycles were out enjoying the great weather going over the "mountain" pass. A bit of a chalenge on the narrow winding roads.

    Up here, we are in search of stone circles. However, but the time we arrived, it was about 3:40 and we had no place to stay yet. The phone proved invaluable as we were ablet to find a room in one of the older High street hotels. Most of the other lodging was already taken. Older, 3-story hotel in need of quite a bit of care that had a room for 55 poungs including breakfast. Bed seems a little softer, or else we can't tell any more.

    Off to see the Eater Aquhorthies stone circle [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/inverurie… was out in the country NW of town and we had it pretty much to ourselves in the 5pm Sun. Quite a place, our first recumbant stone circle. Recumbant stone circles are unique to NE Scotland. They have two vertical standing stones flanking the sidewase recombant stone lying perpendicular to the SW/NE. They all seem to have the same orientation. Then off to see the Loanand stone circle at Daviot [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/oldmeldru…]. Very unusual stone circle with a circular cremation circle next to it. The recombent stone looks like it was made of 2 long slabs instead of one that split, but hard to tell. Unfortunately, the Sun was going in and out of clouds and was low einough in the sky that the trees West of the ring put the ring in 100% shadow. Quite unusual with a stone paved interior. The ring is located in the park for a very small community, next to the boy scouts building. Looked like the boy scouts were getting ready to sleep in the woods for the night.

    This area of Scotland is a large grain/food belt and seems to get a wee bit more Sunlight to help with the crop production. Last night the owner of the hotel joked that with more sunlight, the solar array salesmen are ] working hard to sell systems around here. We can't quite see how it could be ecconomical yet.

    We did see a plethera of fields with hoop houses or fields of berries covered in row cloth. They were cutting grain and hay around us today. Not sure how they can get it/keep it dry. Once bailed int large circular bails, the bails are then nomrally shirink wrapped in black plastic until needed for use. Some fields had new crops just sprouting.

    Dinner was slim pickings in this little town However, we walked up to center of town and had a very nice Indan food in a quiet, nice newer restaurant. We were a little worried that we might e too casually dressed, but that proved not to be the case. However, I did feel a little out of place walking in my low top hikers with other , youndger ladies in their stylish 4" heels/wedges.

    Weather should be good for a couple of days yet before it starts to rain again on Tuesday.
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