Scotland. Stones & Whiskey

September - October 2016
A 28-day adventure by Diane Read more
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  • Day 9

    Stones and Stones to Fraserburgh

    September 12, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Well, a bit delayed in getting something out for yesterday. We moved up to Fraserberg and then spent most of the time this evening looking forward to the next couple of weeks. Bottom line up front: looskks like we need to delay going to Orkney for a week and we will have to forgo going to Isle of Skye, since we didn't have pre-arranged booking.

    Well, the bed was a bit softer than the night before, so I had a bit more sleep. We are missing our airbed with the 3" topper for our poor arthretic joints. Peter braved the shower in the corner of the raised bathroom Modifications to the existing older hotel required raising the floor for the plumbing in the bath.

    Peter drove today. We ended up going a bit South to check out a couple of sites that we drove past yesterday. Unfortunately, being a Sunday, there were a number of fast cars out enjoying the roads on the way to a car show at a gardening nursery. We were in search of a recumbent stone circle called Sunhoney, but it lookded it was on private property. Instead, we ended up at an older church yard with recombent stone circle in the cemetary, MidmarKirk [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/echt/midm…] . Obviously, modified due to the proximity of the church, it is still impressive to see such large stones carefully placed.

    After Midmar Kirk, we moved down the road to Cullerlie, a stone circle with several carins in the center marking ancient burials [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/echt/cull…} . Prior to today, we had seen the recubment stone circles, but this stone assembly did not have the recumbrent with the large stones on either side, but instead had stones of equal high surounding the central area with 8 low carins. Also different is the fact that tjhs stone circle was not located on a noll with a commanding view, but instead, was set on realtively flat terrain.

    Then we were off to a "wild" recumbent circle called Kirkton of Bourtie stone circle. This stone circle was located out in the middle of a grain field. Luckily, the field had already been mowed, so we only had to walk over the stubble. Also, since it was "wild", it waf full of overgrowth and not trimed and proper. Never-the-less, still quite impressive up with a good view.

    This was a busy day with the next recubant circle up the road called Aikey Brae [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/deer/aike…] , a medium walk up past a field of what loked like turnips to a recubent circle just South of a small tight wood. Each recombent circle has the recumbent and the attendents situationed to face towards the S-SW. The standing stoned are not all still standing or in observance, but if they exist, then they are usually graded with the tallest closest to the recumbent trio.

    We deicded to change the gendra for a while and moved on to the Old Deer ruined Cistercian abbey [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/deer/deer…] . Now many of the walls were still standing, and smaller than what we saw in Ireland.Then on to the last site of the day, the White Cow Carin [ http://leshamilton.co.uk/megaliths/whitecow.htm, & http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/5199/w…} across the road from Louden Wood. Recombent Circle By the time we arrived, it was already 3:30 so we couldn't do both and we opted for the White Cow. It was a bit of a walk out to the sight. No longer possible to drive out to be close. We ened up not quite remembering where it was on the road sigh at the beginning, so we walked by it a bit. But was quite nice when we walaked back and finally found it. About 5:30 by the time we arrived back to the car. So then on to Fraserberg, the closest larger city in the area.

    We were lucky and the hotel was only 39 pounds for the night with Sunday dinner specials in the pub. We had stopped at a &B down the road, pretty threadbear for the 60 pounds with shared bath, Only 4 B&B and one hotel in town. Salton Inn is situated one the town square near the fishing docks.

    The hotel has recently been updated and our room on the 3rd floor is quite modern and so much better than the hotel the previous night. I had a lamb shank with mash and veggies a large glass of wine, Peter a blue cheese burger with a beer all for less than 12 pounds. A good place to spend the time to look forward to the next porton of the trip and to plann the next steps.
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  • Day 9

    Another Day Around Fraserburgh

    September 12, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ 🌙 91 °F

    After the disappointing efforts to find lodging at the Orkneys and the Isle of Skye last evening, we opted to spend the moring working out the best itenerary plans we could whille we had internet and a comfortable hotel. In the end we opted to stay another night at the Saltoun Inn, with a 50% increase in the tarrif since it was not the weekend. 

    Breakfast in the pub/cafe of eggs Benedict this morning with filtered coffee! Tasted so much better than the pots of instant we had been drinking at the other places. We were able to secure lodging on the Orkneys for next Monday for 3 days. We will move off to Loch Ness tomorrow to stay at a place near Urquart Castle that has been recommended by friends to have some of the best food in Scotland. Then we will move down SW to Kilmartin Glenn with dozens of archeological sites before we head up to the Orkneys on Sunday.

    After arranging the bookings, we finally started out to find more stone circles. However, when we arrived at the car in the parking lot, we found a 60 pound ticket on the windshield. Evidently, we were only allowed an hour of grace in front of the hotel and should have parked in a different location. A kindly lady walked us through the ticket and showed us that if we paid it withing 24 hours, the fee was only 20 pounds!  There goes a nice dinner or bottle of wine!  Diane tried to log into the website to pay the fee, but since the US cards require signature, she was unsuccessful. After quite a bit of effort in the early evening, we were finally able to pay the reduced rate fee. 

    The first stone circle we tried to find was another "wild" one, but was on priviate property out in grain fields, which we opted not to slog out to find. Then on to Masies Cairen [ https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-pl…] , a very large pile of rocks like we had seen in Ireland. The sign post said that there had been more in this area, but that the rock had been used for other purposes. Cobbles a bit larger than softball size, all pretty uniform in size. A burial beaker and a broken sword had been found in the interior upon escavation.  

    Then on to Strichen for another recumbant circle. A walk of about 900m brought us up to a knoll with a good view and a nice stone circle. Evidently, it had been distroyed and then reconstructed, but it was nice never-the-less. Nearby was a circular tower that was an old Dovecot for the local estate. There is a large house down the hill and a large farm complex. An older house was in ruins just to the Northwest of the newer house, which we at first thought was a type of factory until Diane found it on an old survey map on-line identifying that it was the original house.

    By the time we were back to the car, it was time to venture back to the hotel for a drink. We walked the main street to see if there was any other place to eat, but pickings were slim and we ended back at our hotel.

    Musing...Lighting in the Hotel Rooms:  Up until this hotel, we have found the rooms to be very frugally lit...actually quite dim and difficult in which to try to read or do anything in the evenings. This hotel, however, was quite well lit in addtion to being more updated. Looks like the remodeling must have been in 2014 from the certification sticker in the elevator. The rooms were also electrified such that it required the room key in a slot to turn on the lights. During the past 2 years, Diane has only seen two stateside hotels with the same features. 

    More Musing....Stone Houses: Most if not all of the houses seem to be cut out of the same type of brown-grey stone. Brown-grey stone and black/grey slate roofs everywhere are a bit depressing. Diane thinks that is why there are multiple planters of begonias, petunas and nastursums planted around the city centers and homes. But must also mean that the stone masons can stay in demand. We do see some new home developments being built here and there, so that is a good sign. Like stateside, however, the newer homes are quite larger in size and are on the outskirts of town. We looked at a relator listing window and found the costs to be quite high by our standards for this little town. 
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  • Day 10

    Off over hill and dale to Loch Ness!

    September 13, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    So today was an early rise travel day. We were in the dining room about 8:15 and on the road by 9am. Off we went to the West to go to the Macduff marine aquarium. We drove the scenic route along the coast line with a detour at Fiddle Fort/Cullykhan bay turn out. Good view of the cliffs to the East with what was probably the "fort" out on a point. Haven't read what was there yet. We saw a couple of North shore tankers out in the bay. There was rain to the West of us and we could see low fog rolling a couple 100 ft above the ground as we went West. Not long before we ran into the storm they had been predicting for a oouple of days.

    We arrived at the aquarium just before the 10am open time and spent an hour looking at the exhibits. We had recently been to the Seattle aquarium with Diane's niece, Lea, when we were in Seattle back in June, which we enjoyed emensely and this had been highly recommended by one of the gals in the hotel. This aquarium showcased the local fishes; such a small and sweet exhibit. Diane like the best the pool with the dogfish and rays or the big central deeper pool with all types of fish. The thornback rays in the shallow pool must have been used to being fed as one was always with eyes above water at the edge as if begging. In the bigger pool, there was a Plaice fish, flat, looking like a Dover sole or turbot, swimming laps around the pool. Funny creatures, flat, laying on the floor like a ray, swimming like flexible frizzbies. They even had salmon that run up the local rivers like we had in Michigan, with one who was in his last year. Another interesting oddity they had was what were called mermaid purses:2x6" enclosed features that held dogfish eggs, normally attached to the kelp in the bay.

    Starting to rain as we left the aquarium, so we gave up on any more scenic drives along the coast and started for Dufftown, the home of several distilleries, including Genfiddich. Partway there, Diane decided that they should take a short detour to go to the Deskford church ruin from the 1500's. Church was very interesting, but it took us a while to actually find it. We found that the various types of GPS we have as stand alones, cell phones or on tablet can all give different directions. We only went a little out of our way before Diane challenged the GPS directions using the map. None of the GPS systems are bashful, however, about putting on us small 2 or one lane roads to go from here to there the most directly.

    From there we were on to Dufftown and the Balvinie Castle. From the description, we thought that the castle might have been a bit bigger, but not the case. It was quite fortified and had many features of the tower castles we had seen in Ireland, but with more living space and a big wall around the central work space and well. We were really the only ones there visiting, so we spent most of our time talking to the gal behind the desk about her job and life. We decided against the big Glenfiddich tour. The Famous Grouse  tour was so much smaller and intimate than the bigger production tour at the local distilleries. We did, however, spend time finding the Macallan distiller, since it was a favorite whiskey for Peter. You really have to make reservations in advance for a tour here due to the popularity, but they will provide you with a wee dram to taste for free upon arrival if you did not reserve a tour. 

    They had quite the showcase of whiskeys on display demonstraiting the variations over the years. What we sampled was the newer year blended single mault called "gold", which was quite nice. They said that they sell the largest percentage to US, followed by Taiwan and then duty free at about 10 million liters/year. Unfortuntely, they have decided to expand to meet demand and are building extensive, modern buildings in front of and pretty much surrounding the older distillery with the potential capacity, in two years when they open, to produce over 15 million leisurely produced liters/year with new tasting rooms and restauant. The claim is it will be very much more efficient and they will turn off the original distillery once they are on line with the new. Too bad, as we appreciated the older gendre instead of the new modern that is being built out of the mud.

    From there, we decided it was time to book it to the B&B for the night, which was SW of Inverness since it was already after 3pm, instead of lingering longer in the area. Many more things to see in the area, but perhaps we will be back at the end of next week to savor. We punched Drumnadrocht, the name of the town on Loch Ness where the Urquhart Castle is, into the GPS. Diane thought we would travel down the River Spey to the North coast and didnt' pay too much attention maps, etc until we drove through an unexpected tourist town and realized we had been traversing to the SW from Dufftown instead of NW to come into Inverness from the SE instead of from the NE. 

    Along the way, we marveled at several small herds of large donkeys, some white with spots, wondering why donkeys were needed in this area. Additionally, especially near Deskford and beyond, we started seeing large flocks of pheasants just filling fields and the roads. Things were like sheep in the road, not really worried about getting out of the road for the car. At first, we thought perhaps one of the famres had raised some to release for later enjoyment, However, after seeing many more, it was obvious this was not the case. One field on the way to Inverness must have had more than 50 in the same small field.

    After travelning little traveled back roads most of the day, the venture into Inverness during rush hour was a bit of a challenge for Peter. But, we made it through town and were happy to arrive at the restaurant/B&B by 5:30. Our room is over the dishwashers at the Fiddler's Restaurant, about the only nice place in town to eat. This area seems to be on a walkers trail across Scotland as there were a number of folks with hinking boots and backpacks in town.

    We went down to the cafe/bar at 6pm for a 1/2 pint before dinner awaiting our 6:30 dinner reservation. A small place, so they pretty much only take reservations. Peter had a steak and ale pie with mash and cooked red cabbage and Diane had lamb stew with 3 small pieces of grilled lamb on top. We sat next to a US couple from LA who were simularly rambling. When asked what their best part of the trip was so far, the response was: every day! Unlike us, they reserved rooms on Isle of Skye 6 months in advance and will be going there next with only a map, not GPS to guide them before they return next week to London to meet up with friends.

    Internet worked in the cafe/bar, but we don't seem to have the correct password for the internet up in the room. Cellphone doesn't work down here in this ears, so we are pretty much offline at this point. I can write the blog for the day and Peter can read a book until he falls off to sleep after driving all day.
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  • Day 11

    Cairn, Castle and Along the Loch to Sun

    September 14, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Up early for breakfast again. Not a cooked breakfast this time, but a Swss or European breakfast of cheeses, meets, coisons and bagette with fruit and yogurt. Real brewed coffee, what a luxury! We took time to marel at all of the bottles of whiskey arrayed along the toop of the room, all nicely organized alfabetically, all around the room. And a bit pile of empties in the corner as well. Took pictures as no one would belive us. A small glass angle in the curious for sale cabinet with a very wee dram of whiskey...the Angels Share as they call the losses at the distilleries.

    Then off to the Corrimory carin, about 10 miles West of wn after filling the vehilce with gas for a meer 60 pounds Sterling! Car is almost cheaper to rent than the gas it takes to drive it!

    The Corrimory Cairn was quite a sweet little cairn [ https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-pl… ] . A small pile of roscks with a passage from the SW into an interior cell instead of just covering with a pile of rocks. We saw passage carins in Ireland, but this is the first one we have seen here in Scotland. The top of the cain is now exposed so it is possible to look into the room. A large flat stone with cup hole divits were carved in the top of the cap stone. Along a nice quite stream near a field of freshly sheered sheep.

    Then back to go to the Urquhart Castle [ https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-pl…https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urquhart_Castle ] . Our Scottish heritage pass put us at the beginning of the entrance line, but after that, we were there with the throngs. Never-the-less, it was quite interesting. Something we had to do while we were in the area. Split a veggie wrap and a bag of chips with a coffee at lunch...very European from the looks of tose around us to share like that.

    At 1pm we decided that it was time tp book it for Oban, since it was a slow 2 lane road for the next 100 or so miles. Diane was dirving today to give Peter a breck from yesterday. We had not antcipated the popularity of the West coast and Oban, so as we came out of the clouds to the coast, we found 72 deg F temperatures, and Oban teaming with tourists at 4pm. So after a bit of round and abouts, since the cell phone didn't seem to connect to anything so we could try to search for a place to stay, we finally travels back towards Fort Williams a couple of miles to find a wee shall hotel/bar/restaurant at a marina called the Wide Mouth Fog. 80 pounds Sterling again with breakfast. Right next to the busy road, but we were happy for it and stayed for drinks out on the patio overlooking the marina in the waining Sun and a pub dinner of lamb and beef stew with with a bottle of Spanish roja.

    Have to be in the bar to get internet at any speed. Peter is working to get us a ferry to the Orkneys next week. The Ferry website only recognized one state, Alabama, from the US, so may be a challenge to get a booking. But will call in the morning if we can get service. But sitting here sipping 18 year old Oban for 5.50 pounds is a real hardship!

    Musing...How we are traveling and computing: Peter is using the older NetBook from Allena we took to Ireland 3 years ago and grousing that the Amazon Blu cell phone I brought is faster than it is and that he will be getting us an IPad for our future trips! I am using our 3 yr old Samsung tablet with a bluetooth keyboard and a mouse as a computer. Once I upload the blog, I have to then log into FindingPenguins to spell check and upload the pictures I took with the phone. Eventually, I will get to use the NetBook to upload photos from the other cameras. During the day if I am a passenger, then I am able to keep looking ahead on the map program and if I have cell service I can be looking ahead for places to stay. We starrted out with 15 pounds sterling of credit which gave us 3K f local texts (30p/text to US) and 200 MB of data plan for a month. We currently have used 2/3 of the data plan and about 1/2 o the other credit. We will have to "topup" the chip next week for more capability. But the Unlocked phone has been a Godsend. While we are in our rooms, we use internet to help reduce the useage of the phone service by logging in.
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  • Day 12

    Antinquities in Kilmartin

    September 15, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    So after a relatively comfortable night (bed was not hard!) We were up to assure that we could get the ferry on Monday to Orkneys and for breakfast. We were finally away South by 9:30 heading for Kilmartin.

    We left the land of the busy on the Oban side of the peninsula and then went up and over a hill (GPS said 141m) to arrive at the top of the Kilmartin glen. We encountered a number of busses cuming up our way and were to encounter more tour busses later in the day. We have been impressed over the past couple of days with hill grades of 12-14 & 20 degrees with narrow 2-lane roads.

    Kilmartin glen [ http://www.kilmartin.org, http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/kilmartin…[ is a facinating area loaded with archeological sites. There is a very sweet museum next to the church with a nice assortment of displays. We were there alone, but were quickly overtaken by a busload of elderly folks on a tour with limited time. So we let them pass and then tried to stay a bit behind them as they traveled to some of the other interesting sites in the glen.

    The church yard has a number of grave markers from medieval times depicting Gaelic knights of old either with a single carving of a long blade on the stone or an image of a knight n armor. Most of these were enclosed in a plexiglass stone building [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/kilmartin…] adjacent to the church to help protect them from the weather, but some were out in the grave yard.

    We had a bit of sunlight around noon and by mid-afternoon, the temp had risen to 23 deg C! Diane had to shed her turttle neck for a much cooler blouse. For the rest of the day.By about 2pm, it looked like it might rain, but it was just increasing humidity and lowering of the cloud layer.

    After the church, we drove South about a mile to a pull out where we were able to walk out to several sites including Nether Largie Standing Stones [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/kilmartin…] with their proposed lunar alighments, Temple Wood [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/kilmartin…] an interesting series of two stone circles, one with standing stones and one without that mght have been used as the crematorium, similar to the Loudon at Daviot the Dunchraigig cairn [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/kilmartin…], to the Baluachraig rock art (pecked cups) and a couple of series of standing stone and cup/stone rock art sites before we headed into Lochgilphead to find our hotel for the night.

    On the way from one of the rock art sites, however, we passed by a hotel with the same name as the one we had booked, The Horseshoe Inn, finding it strange that there would be another one 3 miles away in this little small town in the mddle of nowhere. Diane tried the door at 4pm, but it was locked, but the sign out front said it would be serving food at 5pm. We had not internet or cell service so we went into the big town, picked up some $$ and then checked the Garmin GPS and confirmed that the phone number of the hotel in the country was the only one within 200 miles and had the same telephone number as the hotel I booked. So we worked our way back by way of a drive along the Crinan canal (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinan_Canal). When we returned to the hotel at 5:30, the hostess was busy serving locals beer in the wee bar. All eyes were glued to a TV game show called Pointless.

    We have a rustic room upstairs over the bar looking out on the street. Twin beds this evening with a private bath next door, but have to go out into the hall first. All rooms taken as the other 3 rooms are occupied by motorcyclists who are travelingin out to Isle on the ferry in the morning When Diane idenfied herslf, the proprietress handed her the room key and all dirnks and food went on the room bill as well to be settled in a final bill in the morning. Dinner in this one hotel/restaurant town was Thai chicken curry with a kick and lamb shank with a bottle of Shiraz and a chocolate mouse cake for a splurge.

    Worked a bit on tomorrow nights lodging. Looks like Inverness and the North coast is pretty full, so Peter found a place in the mountains East of Loch Ness for the night. We will worry about the other nights before we leave for Orkneys in the morning at breakfast.

    Musing and what is important in UK for today:
    A) The great British Bake Off Program [ https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Briti…[ ...For the past several days, all the news on the BBC is consumbed about the fact that BBC will be losing the Great British Bakeoff program to one of ther other TV affilitates. Most of you won't know this, but the past 2 years, the Great Britich Bakeoff program has had more watchers than Downton Abbey! This program is so popular, that the winner last year was able to make the cake for the Queen Mother's birthday! Now, it appears that the 2 cheerful gals, Mel and Sue, who present the show are moving on with the title of the show to the other network, which outbid the BBC who wanted to retain it.The current situation for the current 2 judges is up in the air as well. This controversy has been dominating all of the news over here in addtion to detailed analysis of a radio drama show!

    B) So much is happening elsewhere, but this is what is important here....well in addition to the fact that they approved the building of the first nuclear power plant (19 B pounds Stering financed by the French and Chinese) in more that a couple of decades. By the time it is on line, the expecataion is that the power will cost 2x what they are paying currently.Pressure was to stop it and put in more wind generations, especiallty out at sea, but the new PM approved the start of the builiding today. Peter wonders whether the current design a the location includes rising sea water as the climate changes.

    C) I think I heard on the news that the French are in their 14th air stirke of the year!
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  • Day 13

    Friday: From Kilmartin to Kingussie

    September 16, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Today was to be a pretty leisurely day with about 130 miles up to our next stop. We had a long chat over breakfast with th owner of the hotel, who was also acting as cook/chef for breakfast/lunch/dinner. He provided French press coffee with brown toast n the rack, 2 eggs, 2 sausage, 2 pieces of ham, beans, potato pancake quarter, baked tomato, 3 mushrooms. No haggis today and we declined the black pudding. Way too many calories, but then we have been going without lunch after such a large breakfast with a few cookies to tied us over until dinner.

    Place is for sale as he and the wife want to move down country to England/Wales to be closer to the family/grandkids. Historic building in need of a little repair with pub and 4 rooms plus one self catering "stable" unit for 279K pounds sterling, I think. Anyone interested?

    We hung around for a while to figure out where we were stayhing next. Last eve, we secured lodging for today and Sunday, but we still needed Saturday. Monday will will be taking the ferry to the Orneys for 3 nights out there, so we will be good for a while. We find that we are rambling based upon where we can get lodging now. Tourist pressure is still quite high. The owner of the Horseshoe Inn says this is the best year since 2009, and they have been full for months. One couple stayed in the lobby trying to find lodging on Isle of Skye hours he said and then finally acceptd something for more than 200 pounds / night! We are hoping things settle down a bit as mid-season starts to wind down after Orkneys.

    Turned out to be an absolutely cracking day with lots of sunshine any a bit of shower as we drove

    After the hotel we travled back into the Kilmartin glen to stop to see a few sites we missed yesterday. The first site was called Dunadd [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/kilmartin…] , a 600-800 Irish-Scott and Pictish fort on top of a knoll overlooking the glen from the South. Beautiful day with goreous views from atop the stoney outcrop. Petroglyph slab on top had a Pictish boar and a footprint. Footprint was supposed to be where the early kings were installed.

    We then traveled back up to the top of the glen to the Carnasserie Castle [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/kilmartin…]. Quite an impressive househould for someone of the church in the 1500's. Had holes in the side of the building to support guns and muskets firing during battle. But not enough to save the building from being torched in the late 1600's during an uprising.

    We then went back to the bottom of the glen (thinking that perhaps we would be leaving from the South) to see the cup/ring petroglyph panel at [Archnabreck https://the-hazel-tree.com/2016/04/05/prehistor…]. Unfortunately with the overgrowth of moss and the lighting, it was difficult to make out.

    By 2pm, we were finally off for Kingussie a trip that took 4 hours. We traveled back through Oban, watched the tide rush back in up the loch at Fort William. Unfortunately, there was a "ride across Britian" bike ride going on from about 20 miles South of Ft William, which made driving challenging for Peter trying to get around 2-6 riders at a time in 4pm traffic.

    North of Ft William, we traveled off to the Northeast to go up along a loch to get back over the highland to the valley to the East where we had been earlier. As we neared the crest of the drive, traffic was stopped. A motorcylist had just driven off the road into the side of the hill, hopefully, missing a major road sign. We are hoping that he was not badly injured. We ad watched many motorcylist today just screaming down the road with abandon and wondered whether or not he might have been similarly riding.

    We were happy to finally make it to the lodging reserved for us in a lovely old house. The owners suggested a pub downt the street for dinner and we decided to try it. Quite the local pub. Locals bellied up to the bar drinking away. One person was ordering a Budwiser every 15-20 minutes the entire 2 hours we were there. I will discuss current alcohol limits in another entry later.

    A minor pub altercation as quickly ended with the bartender and several of the patrons who forced the issue outside. Dog friendly bar with at least 4 dogs with masters. I had the local Plaice, the flat fish I had seen swimming at the aquarium last week and Peter had the lamb burger with the ever present "chips".

    Tomorrow we will be moving up to the coast and then a bit West of Inverness stopping to see a few sites along the way.
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  • Day 14

    Saturday: Kinguisse to Contin

    September 17, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Breakfast cooked to order in the dining room. Bernie's mother, 92 yrs, comes every morning to help with the cooking, cleaning, making of the homemade jams, etc. Climbs up the steep ill daily to reach the house She was only 4ft 8" tall at best, but spry as they come.

    It is a crackingly great day! Weather at 18 deg C. We even had to turn on the car accident but afternoon.

    We left about 10am for the Lynchat or Raitts sourterrain site down the road Diane had located in her searches [ http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=155…] . Not in the books or on the big map, so a bit of a wild site just a few miles down the road. Walked by it the first time and then located it within a fence to protect it from the sheep and cows...duh!Very interesting site. Over 2 meters in height once inside and 2m across. The intact roof made it quite different from the ones we saw a week ago down the East coast. Well worth the adventure in finding it.

    Then we started to move North towards Forres to find the Ardclach Church Bell tower [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/nairn/ard…] . On the way, we travled up above 320m elevation over pretty barren country side. When we started down towards lower elevations, we saw more trees and vegetation re-appar. The church tower was tucked well off of the road up on a hill above the church that was down in the valey next to the river. Build in 1655 it was a small 2-stored building with good views. Peter talked to a couple of ly fishermen who had come up from England, but were not having any luck. They said they had to pay the landowner 90 pounds a day to fish and that they thought was pretty inexpensive.

    After touring the church yard and the bell tower, we moved on to Forres to see Suenos Stone, a 6m tall pictish stone that was now protected in a large plexiglass box [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/forres/su…] . Very impressive with deep carvings. Depicted loss in battle on one side and had nice cross on the other side.

    Then we traveled West towards Inverness for the last site of the day, the clava cairns [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/inverness…]. The 3 large cairns are peacefully located within a glade of trees. Near the Culloden battlefield [ http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/inverness…] , but not as seemingly full of tourist, although we did have a few waves of small tours come through,, all staying about 10m. Too little time to soak in all of the area. Two of the cairins are passage cairns with openings facing the SW. The center cairin does not have a passage, but is equal in size to the other two cairns with a central curbbed chamber. Cows at the farm next door were making all kinds of racket. Must have been the mothers and calfs were separated. From the cairn area, we also had a good view of the Culloden viaduct, which was beautiful as it spanned the valley [ https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culloden_Viaduct].

    Finally it was on to the lodgings for the evening, a moderate sized older roadside hotel. We are on the 2nd floor (3rd to those in the US), but don't ask me where the fire sprinklers are or the fire escapes. The fire alarm did sound for a very short time after we returned from dinner, but did not continue.

    Dinner was at the Red Poppy restaurant about 5 miles away. Very nice dinner and about the same cost as the pub food last evening. Diane had salmon on linguinie and Peter had the homemade gnoche. Only drank 1/2 the bottle of wine due to the strick drink-driving laws. First time Peter drove after dark!

    The one not so good thing about the trip is that Diane's feet seem to be hurting a lot on the top of the in-step and sometimes in the arch achey or with stabbing pain They started on a hike just before we left and the pain has continued. Probaly old arthritus, but a pain. Somehwat limits some of the daily hiking we are trying to do. Could also be a combination of th higher humidity and the exta salt in the meals.
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