Day 11, Sep 4: Skaftafell to Selfoss

It was clear with weak sunshine while we breakfasted and broke camp. As we headed west, we swept across the Sheithararsandur, a vast, flat glacial outwash plain. This 1,300 square kilometer plain is the result of repeated "glacial bursts" that carried tons of sediment down the slopes and fanned out over the plain.

The Vatnajokull ice cap sits on six active volcanos and several thermal hotspots. It also sits over basins filled with water from melting. Occasionally, temporary lakes form under the glacier and suddenly burst from under it and down to the valleys or coast. This has happened numerous times in this spot and created the sandur. This geologic feature here is so impressive that it has given its name (singular: sandar) to all such features worldwide. (That's the second geologic feature that gave its name to all such in the world - remember geyser?)

As we crossed the 60-mile plain, the weather started to lower and darken. Soon we were in rain, light at first but sometimes getting heavy. The road touched the steep-sided mobergs and we stopped to see the tall Foss a Sithu. Passed through Kirkjubaejarklaustur then across a vast lava field. The ancient lava here is covered with thick moss.  The rain, appropriately enough, increased as we approached Vik, the rainiest town in Iceland. Vik is also home to the black sand beaches and the Reynisdranger, tall basalt columns sticking up out of the black sand just offshore. Stopped to look from one side then drove around the hill and saw them from the other side - where there are also the iconic basalt hexagonal column walls. Saw, in the distance, the basalt intrusion with the arched opening (Dyrholaey) up the coast. Grabbed a smoked salmon bagel at the cafe and continued on to a side trip to the Solheimer, where you can walk up near the end of the glacier. Another place where outfitters will take you hiking on it or kayaking around the calved icebergs in the lagoon.

The weather until now has been great! Only one day of rain (until today) and comfortable temps (40s and 50s). We haven't needed the long underwear and heavy coats. Mostly I walked around in a flannel shirt and light vest with a headband. Once we figured out the heat, we kept it on 2 or 3, of 5. A few times we needed windbreakers when the wind howled but mostly a light coat was enough.

Traffic, as we headed south and west has been gradually increasing since we left the east fiords. Now we're seeing traffic of two to four cars per minute. Farther west we stopped at Skogafoss, a wide, thundering falls dropping a shear 200 feet. You can walk right up to this on - under it, if you dare. Marie walked up the 527 steps to the upper overlook.

Other falls along the way caught our attention but we'd all been waiting for Seljalandsfoss. This 180-foot, shear drop isn't as big as Skogafoss but you can easily walk behind this one. Marie and I did. The exit from behind the cascade passes right under the thin ribbon of water to the left. Even in the second or two it took to walk through that stream, I got drenched. Had a wind breaker on so only my pants got wet from the pounding stream.

Continued into the Golden Circle area through Hella and into Selfoss. We'd passed through Selfoss when we headed out, 11 days ago. This time we located the campground and registered then went out for dinner at a Rick Steves recommended place, Kaffi Krus. Back to set up at the campground and relax as the rain continued.Lue lisää