現在旅行中
  • Charlotte Ellery

Our Adventure

Charlotte もっと詳しく
  • Just keep putting one foot in front...

    2018年5月17日, ニュージーランド ⋅ 🌫 13 °C

    ...of the other and soon you'll look back and you'll have climbed a mountain. Well today with that phrase in mind we did! What an incredible hard climb it was! Roys peak is a backpacker hotspot and something everyone seems to do. I'd been wanting to climb it for the amazing views it gives you from the summit but we'd accepted the weather wasn't going to be on our side. We'd pretty much ruled it out this morning so once we'd packed up and were ready to go we headed on down to the Wanaka tree which I'm sure is one of the most photographed trees ever. It seems you haven't been to Wanaka if you haven't photographed this tree. As we stood on the shore line admiring possibly the loneliest tree in existence we realised the weather was greatly improving. After a quick check online and a few little words of encouragement from me we decided to take the opportunity and climb a mountain. The start of the track is only 6km from town and we set off on our ascent at 11am sharp. It's a 16km round trip that takes between 5-6 hours. What we weren't prepared for was the fact it is an 8km pretty much continual climb and at a rather steep gradient. The track winds and bends up the face of the mountain and every step feels like a mission to complete. We passed a couple where the girl was struggling as much as I was and she definitely gave me a look that said "my boyfriend made me do this". For us it was the other way around so I kept on trying to power on through knowing it'd be so worth it at the top. Nick was good at providing encouragement and helping to push me up the mountain, literally when needed. Around half way up we could actually see where the lookout point was and could make out the people on the ridge line. They looked tiny and every time you glanced up it felt as if they hadn't grown in size at all. In the end you have to just stop looking and focus on your feet and not the endless path in front of you. Many people do this walk in time for sunrise and I think they are crazy because one it's so cold at this time of year let alone at sunrise and two they miss so much of the view on the way up by climbing in the dark. It took all our might and strength to keep on going and eventually those little tiny people we saw became life size and we'd made it at least to an awesome view point. We queued up and became the people you can see from below waiting our turn to pose on the end of the ridge. The view was incredible. We ate some lunch as we queued and spent time just soaking it all in. After some photos I was determined to push one more time to reach the summit, another 1.5km steep climb away. Nick wasn't fussed so we parted ways and I started to ascend. He changed his mind and realised we've come this far and it's just one little bit more then we can say we climbed the mountain, he soon caught me up on the track up. As we got higher the snow and ice got thicker and some of the track itself was covered in compacted snow. Eventually we made it to the summit and I've never been so relieved and happy at the same time. We just sat down in the ice cold wind and stared down at what we had just accomplished. I'm so happy to say we climbed a mountain, all 1578m of it. It was hard to want to get up again to begin our descent down and my knees were really not happy about it either. After a trip to the toilet to apply my knee cream we set off back down the track we'd struggled so much on earlier today. We passed people still climbing up at even 5pm which I felt was incredible irresponsible given that it will get dark soon. It took us so long to climb down that I'm quite amazed we even made it up. The couple from this morning were walking quite close behind us and we felt they should just overtake us but at the bottom we found out why, they asked us for a lift. We only have two legal seats and had already decided to shower before we left so used that as an excuse to not be able to and luckily another couple took them. We both had the best most rewarding showers in the campervan and got into our pjs before even leaving the carpark. We drove to a campsite on the way to the West Coast and although it was quite late by this point all we had to do was make tea and get the bed set up. Our legs are aching, we will fall asleep before 9pm and we've both got headaches from not drinking enough but boy oh boy was it worth it! New Zealand has not beaten us yet!もっと詳しく

  • What a puzzling day

    2018年5月16日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Bruce and Candy had recommended that we visit a place called Puzzling World when we were in Wanaka, so with it looking like it'd be a rainy day we headed their this morning. It offers two sections; a great maze and illusion rooms. As the rain was holding off we decided to do the great maze first because it is outside and uncovered. We opted for the harder version which was to reach all the corner towers in the order of yellow, green, blue, red before heading to the finish point in the centre. We had a great time getting totally lost and trying to find our way. Each tower felt like such an achievement and I think we completed in quite a good time. We were advised to visit the toilets whether we needed them or not to see quite a cool illusion. It played on perspective to show men sat on Roman style toilets. I spent quite a while lining myself up to get the perfect photo that makes the scene look right. We then entered the illusion room section of the place which initially had amazing hologram pictures that change and pop out as you walk past them. It was a shame how many people just walked on through without spending time seeing all the different images of one picture by moving around. The next room was a tilted house at a 15 degree angle. You felt rather off balance trying to walk your way around. It's amazing how your mind then believes things that are at the true horizontal really aren't. The best part was watching a pool table ball seemingly roll uphill when in reality the table is angled slightly downwards but when you are slanted it really looks as if the table is going uphill. There was a room full of inverted faces that really looks as if they are 3D towards you when you face them and as you move across the room the faces appear to turn and follow you. It's rather creepy but such a cool illusion. It's amazing how playing with angles can really alter your perception. This was shown in a room when you viewed it from a side window and it looks perfectly straight and normal however the person standing on the left will be massive and touching the ceiling and the person down on the right will appear tiny. It's only when you walk around and into the room do you see how playing with lines and patterns for a certain view point in mind really tricks your mind. Unfortunately there wasn't anyone we could ask for a photo of us in this room which was a shame but I'm sure we won't forget about it anytime soon. After fully amazing ourselves we headed back to the main area where they had about hundred different small puzzles to try and complete. I managed a couple but Nick was really stumped on one where you had to remove the string from the puzzle. He went to the toilet and one of the attendants came and took his puzzle. I told him he was still doing it but he took it anyway and said he wanted to show someone it. It was rather rude and I didn't get a nice vibe from him. Because of that we didn't ask how to remove the string from the puzzle so I guess we will never know. We were feeling rather low about how cold it was so made the decision to stay a second night in the paid campsite so we can have a heater on and nice showers again. After booking that we looked around the very limited high street that Wanaka has to offer before returning back to the campsite to spend another evening in the communal area talking to our Irish friends. We are so glad we came back because within an hour or so the wind was as furious as the rain.もっと詳しく

  • A very frosty day

    2018年5月15日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We had a relatively good night's sleep despite being next to the highway. We woke up early to make sure we were ready to leave by the 8:30am time limit as stated on the signs. Turns out many people didn't seem bothered by this time frame as we left over half the campervans behind us when we pulled away bang on time. We did have a small set back to our morning when Nick decided to check the fluid levels under the bonnet only to discover an electrocuted semi cooked poor bird trapped inside. It was a rather grim sight and the smell was far worse. It was horribly cold this morning and by the time we set off I think we'd only reached 1 degree outside. We visited the small picturesque country and western style town of Arrowtown. It's not far from Queenstown and a nice little place to walk around. It was hard to even want to venture out of the van and into the brisk icy cold morning air. The prospects of coffee and a log burning fire tempted us into the first cafe we saw. I joked to the waitress that I'll sit on the fire guard when she said we could sit anywhere, she thought I was joking but really I wish I could of spent all day in front of that fire. The town had lots of cute features and quirky buildings. We were rather disappointed by the old fashioned sweet shop they had here when we found out you had to buy a whole premade bag of one type of sweet and couldn't get a mixture of ones from the jars. Nick's decided to open a shop in competition offering the pick'n'mix option we longed for. We had planned to do a walk but I really wasn't feeling great so instead we headed off towards a town called Cromwell which is known as the fruit bowl of the South island. We had planned to spend the night here but after discovering there isn't much to do or anything going on we decided to continue on our journey and stay at Wanaka instead. We had laundry to do anyway so this worked out better and after quite a lot of days freedom camping we were looking forward to nice showers and a large kitchen to us. We actually arrived to our campsite at 2pm to really get the most of the facilities and so I could just rest for a bit and start to feel better. We met a lovely Irish couple in the communal kitchen who we talked to for ages. You forget how isolating the campervan can be sometimes without visiting good campsites that have a communal space. The conversation resulted in the girl giving me two things to help with my sandfly bites, something we've discovered I react very badly to. We sat and talked as we ate stir fry and it was just a lovely way to end the day.もっと詳しく

  • Boardwalk strolls

    2018年5月14日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Our camping spot is half way between Queenstown and the town of Glenorchy so we decided today to head in the opposite direction to the way we have driven the past couple of days and visit this small town. The road hugs the lakeside so we had a lovely scenic drive on the way there and back. Because we have to leave this campsite by 9 each day we've been getting up rather early to make sure we are all set up and ready to leave on time. These early mornings seemed to have caught up with us so before we set off on our planned walking route we visited a local cafe and gift shop for a caffeine hit. The place was tiny and only fitted one table inside but it was so refreshing to find a gift shop with items to buy that we haven't come across before. Everything was handmade in New Zealand and most of it locally. We haven't bought many things from our travels for ourselves and we fell in love with a set of 3 Christmas decorations of our favourite NZ birds so we just had to have them. I have a feeling our future home will be filled with many memories of our time here in this incredible country. We set off on our planned walk today which was a track mainly on a boardwalk over the lagoons and swamp style land next to the town. The fog and mist had descended so we couldn't see anything beyond the lagoons but we still had a pleasant easy stroll around the area. It was a little tricky in places if you met someone coming the other way especially if you were passing on a stretch that was over water. Luckily neither of us fell in! After a good explore it was back in the van to drive back to Queenstown. We visited our favourite supermarket, Pak'n'save and stocked up on about 2 weeks worth of food knowing that we wouldn't come across one in a while. We then headed to our freedom camping spot for the night which was the other side of Queenstown in a carpark for a bungy jump place. We couldn't actually be there until after 6pm so we were worried about being in our van before this time. We took the opportunity to head down to the bridge and watch people jump off into the gorge below. It makes you feel quite sick watching it as you feel as if you will fall too and it definitely confirmed to us that it's not something we want to try. After spending time watching more jumpers and going on a walk we headed back at 6pm to settle down for the night. It's surprising how many people ignored the signs and were happy to not only turn up early but also park outside the camping zone. Clearly some people aren't as worried about the threatened $200 fine as we are!もっと詳しく

  • Conquering Queenstown Hill

    2018年5月13日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    After our walk yesterday we realised that we missed doing walks, not only are they enjoyable and rewarding but also they are free! So today we thought we'd up our game and tackle Queenstown Hill. We shared a coffee at Starbucks to gear us up for the climb ahead. Just climbing up to the start of the track in the campervan proved rather difficult but with a few stalls and hill starts we managed to make it. Luckily people previously had found good sticks to use as walking sticks and had left these behind. Nick had read that it can be steep in places so having a stick was a welcome help. We experienced this steepness within the first few metres and already we were wondering if we could actually do this. We stuck it out though and soon we were deep in the pine forest. We came across a rather enchanting area along the way. On our travels we've noticed it seems to be a thing for tourists to build towers out of flat rocks, we have no idea why but these pop up all over the place. We entered an area with loads of these towers but it had been taken to another level by some having little tiny fairy doors added to the front. I've never been in a forest with so many red and white spotted mushrooms and it definitely did feel like we were inside a fairytale forest. As we climbed higher we discovered more and more areas which were covered in frost where the sun hadn't reached yet. Winter is definitely on it's way. We reached a lookout area where an artist has installed a sculpture called 'The Basket of Dreams'. It did add a nice focal point to the view although the view was so amazing that I wasn't sure if it really needed a focal point. We had one final 20 minute push to the summit and this is always the hardest part in any climb. We powered on through and were rewarded with a wonderful view and the bluest of skies and water in front of us. We saw what looked like tiny toy sized planes coming into land at the airport and it was hard to accept that they were huge passenger planes in reality. Behind us we also had great views of snowed capped peaks. We eventually dragged ourselves away from the view and took an alternative route down to the start of the track. This route took us through forest with hundreds and hundreds of those red and white mushrooms. After returning our sticks we made our way back to town where we visited an attraction called Shootout which has 4D cinema experiences. We both experienced a rollercoaster simulator and Nick did two shooting games one with aliens and one with zombies. I was too much of a wimp to give those a go and knew I'd want to put my fingers in my ears and cover my eyes so I let him do those solo. It was entertaining to see his reaction on the screen and at one point his knees were up by his chest. Definitely safe to say he felt a little unnerved after the experience. We spent the rest of the day sat on the water front with some caramelised cashew nuts and hopeful ducks before heading back to our new favourite camping spot and trying our campervan shower for the first time. Safe to say it's the most hot and cold shower we've both ever had!もっと詳しく

  • Gondola rides and skimming stones

    2018年5月12日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    I love this photo I captured of Nick from the van skimming stones as we waited in a layby before entering our freedom camping spot. We had a pleasant nights sleep so have decided to return to the same spot tonight but once again over estimated how long it would take us to arrive so we had some time to kill before we could enter the site at 5pm. Perfect time for skimming stones and he's rather good at it. We had to leave the site by 9am this morning so we were up early to get ready to head back to Queenstown. Today we went up Queenstown gondola which takes you pretty high up where you get a good view of the surrounding area. We were hoping to get a single ride up and walk back down but unfortunately they only sell single way tickets from the top, not the bottom so we ended up buying a two way ticket. The track running along side it was incredibly steep and I really wasn't feeling like doing such a big climb. It was a little windy out so this made the carriage sway a little but the view at the top was definitely worth it. The mountain range surrounding the lake provides such a wonderful backdrop for the town and area. We spent time just admiring the view from above before exploring the complex. I managed to buy the last of Nick's birthday presents from the gift shop so that's a relief that it's sorted now. From the centre you can walk up the mountain called Ben Lomond so we started the walk up which initially was rather steep. A thick layer of cloud was descending so we asked a passerby if they knew how long the walk takes and discovered it can take up to 8 hours. We then figured that with such heavy cloud and it being quite late in the day it wasn't a good idea to attempt the climb so instead we did the loop track around the centre and headed back for a much needed crepe. Even though we had bought return tickets for the gondola we decided to walk down as we had planned originally. It was quite an interesting and dangerous walk because we discovered many people head up the gondola with mountain bikes and then race down the steep tracks to the bottom. Luckily the walking and biking tracks were mostly separate but there were times when the two crossed and we had to dash across between bikes coming. It was rather scary to watch them go so fast down such steep slopes and swerve and turn at the last split second around corners. You definitely need to be quite experienced to tackle these hills but surprisingly we probably saw around 60 people doing it. The descent was very steep so I'm rather pleased we didn't attempt to climb up as well as down! The forest itself was dense with pine trees which gave off the most amazing smell and littered the floor with hundreds of soft brown pine needles. Eventually we made it to the bottom and after one last dart across the biking track we were back at the gondola centre. We spent the rest of our day having a walk around the shops and in Starbucks using the free Wi-Fi. I'm so glad that we do have data on my phone when we have signal because if we only had Wi-Fi to rely on I'd hate to think how much we'd spend on Starbucks drinks!もっと詳しく

  • Views, views and even more views

    2018年5月11日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Hello beautiful Queenstown. I don't think I've ever seen a place more orientated towards tourism than Queenstown. We had a little bit of a lie in this morning and luckily my headache had almost completely gone, almost. We had a lovely scenic drive to Queenstown stopping at many lookout points. Most of the journey was up a road that hugs Lake Wakatipu and beyond the lake are dramatic mountains so every curve and bend of the drive was pretty spectacular to look at. It wasn't long before we arrived in Queenstown and having researched where to park previously on Campermate, our favourite app, we found a cheap carpark with larger spaces for campervans. As we walked to town that's when we discovered how tourist aimed this town is. They have it great in both seasons with extreme sports and walks in summer and skiing in winter. 3 out of 4 shops were tourist booking shops or stores that sell appropriate clothing for those booked activities. Luckily as we passed the main street more regular shops popped up along with loads of gift shops that pretty much sell exactly the same things. We walked down to the lake and truly got to experience the beautiful setting this town is in. The trees were covered in autumn colours so everything was made even more lovely to look at. Strolling around the Queenstown gardens we saw a new mixed breed species of duck. From our wildlife tour in Dunedin we learnt that Mallard ducks were introduced to the country by the British and he mentioned they've now bred with another species of duck. Turns out that species is a rather large white duck which has created very big whiter Mallard ducks. It was quite weird to see Mallard ducks, this white species and the new cross bred species all together in one spot. We also discovered a new sport in this park called frisbee golf. They have metal funnels surrounded by chains and the idea is to throw your frisbee in through the chains. We didn't give it a go because I think you need your own frisbee, but it did look highly amusing. One girls frisbee even rolled down and ended up in the lake. After meandering around some more and visiting the information centre to see what we'd like to do here we decided to call it a day and get to our freedom camp spot early. There's no freedom camping n Queenstown so we are staying in the closest one 40 minutes away. We'd forgotten that we couldn't arrive until 5pm and were worried we'd get a fine if we were early so we waited in a layby down the road playing hangman to pass the time until it got to 5. Luckily we were only 45 minutes early or so we didn't have to sit trying to think of film titles for too long! Our camp spot is right on the lake front and despite the hundreds of sandflies we are feeling like we may spend all our nights here while visiting Queenstown.もっと詳しく

  • Headaches suck

    2018年5月10日, ニュージーランド ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    We've had a very low key day today because I woke up to my headache being incredibly bad and on the verge of a migraine level. The pain had gone to behind my eye and down by face to my ear and even blinking was now hurting. It was clear we needed to head back to a pharmacy to get some stronger pain killers. Nick was amazing and as I led there trying to find some position where my head hurt less he dealt with dismantling the bed as well as all the other jobs that need doing before we can drive off. We were one of the last vehicles to leave but luckily the DOC don't seem to mind what time you do vacate the area. We drove to Te Anau pretty much in silence apart from the occasional mention of a nice view or a rainbow that came out for us. Light and sound were starting to hurt quite a lot so the silence helped. The doctor at the pharmacy gave me some strong migraine tablets and advised me to also drinkn an energy drink. After only 15 minutes or so it felt as if the tablet was starting to work which was a huge relief. We went and had some pies and drinks in a cafe we visited last time we were in town, basically spending time waiting to see if the pill worked. We haven't had signal for two days either so we spent time catching up on messages and things. A couple of hours passed and the headache had just become a minor normal headache so that was a relief and I felt up to having a shower which was our main aim for today. The town offers $5 showers for 8 minutes which isn't too bad for a nice shower. Feeling refreshed we said goodbye to Te Anau and headed to Lumsden where our freedome camping spot was going to be for the night. Feeling sorry for ourselves and the uninteresting day we'd had we went to a restaurant across the road for tea and had some pretty hefty burgers. I took the second migraine tablet with the hope it will go for good and this seemed to help again and I felt up for playing some games tonight. Despite it being a terribly mundane day, when you're feeling awful it just has to be done really.もっと詳しく

  • Milford Sound, keas and chasms

    2018年5月9日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We've had a pretty awesome day today. We set off early from our campsite to Milford Sound allowing enough time for any delays. We are glad we did because the drive is amazingly spectacular so we were able to enjoy the scenery and there was temporary traffic lights at the 1.2km long tunnel. The tunnel through a mountain has made Milford Sound accessible by road so even though we sat at traffic lights for 5 minutes we didn't mind knowing that without the tunnel and it's maintenance we wouldn't be able to go where we are going today. As we queued we saw our first wild Keas, the world's only alpine parrot. It was so exciting, well at first it was until you realise they are hopping around the cars hoping someone will feed them, a behaviour they'd only be doing if it had been successful for them in the past. We made it to Milford Sound with time to spare but luckily our boat left on time. It was much more commercial than Doubtful Sound with many different competing tour companies and lots of boats and people alike. Despite the different vibe we initially got we still had an amazing cruise. The landscape was more dramatic with the cliffs and mountains being steeper and more sheer. We also got up close and personal with some huge waterfalls which was a particular highlight. Some fur seals had taken up residence on some shallow rocks so we were able to stop there briefly to watch them roll around trying to catch some sun. The complimentary coffee on this boat was much better than our previous cruise because it was an actual coffee machine so we enjoyed quite a few lattes. The whole trip and area felt so different to Doubtful Sound and I'm so pleased we got to experience both. Back at the van we had two Keas come up to us as we unloaded our toilet at the dump station and they followed Nick around to the back of the van wanting food. As sweet as they are it's so sad they have become such beggers, clearly tourists ignore the signs and feed them anyway. They flew off when we didn't offer anything and soon after we heard some backpackers telling off some people for feeding them. On our way out of Milford we stopped at many view points and things to see that we had to drive past this morning to ensure we were not late. One stop was to a place called the Chasm. We didn't really know what we'd be seeing but boy it's the most mind blowing incredible thing I've ever seen, and we've seen a lot on this trip! You walk over a bridge with a raging waterfall and river below and see beautiful craved rocks that resemble Swiss cheese where it's been moulded and shaped by the water. Huge boulders sit on top of each other and there's the odd 40ft tall tree down there as well. Apparently rocks carried in the water will swirl and spiral in small crevasses wearing and rubbing the rock down to create these holes and tunnels. I couldn't get over how this even happens, that something in nature can carve and break rock. It saddened me that people walked by within minutes when we spent ages just adirming the incredible power and ability that this river has. When we finally dragged ourselves away we had a breif stop at another view point where a Kea even landed on our mirror hoping Nick would feed him. He then started trying to eat plastic on the floor so we quickly took that from him before he succeeded. We've gone from seeing no wild Keas to seeing around 10 in one day, all by roads or in car parks which really does say something. I started to develop a pretty bad headache so we made our way back to the same campsite as last night so that we don't have to drive too far with my head not being great. Hopefully it'll be better tomorrow.もっと詳しく

  • The coolest little worms ever

    2018年5月8日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I wish, I wish, I wish I could say that the main photo on today's blog is one of my own but unfortunately that would be a lie! No artificial light was allowed during today's experience so that meant no photographs so instead I've downloaded someone else's as a reminder of the spectacular nature display we saw today. We packed up and headed north to Te Anau, a town that sits right on the side of Lake Te Anau, New Zealand's second largest lake. Our tour to the glow worm caves was due to leave at 10:15am and because we arrived early we treated ourselves to a morning coffee to give us a boost after having two early mornings in a row. Soon enough we were collecting our boarding passes and heading to the boat. We sailed for 45 minutes over a very bumpy lake. The lake is so long in length that the waves really can build up when a northern wind hits the area. After a very windy time on board we reached the dock for the caves where we split into two groups. Initially we had a couple of sections where we had to bend over to walk into the cave entrance but after that we could stand quite comfortably. A raging river ran through the whole system carving away to create pretty incredible rock formations and patterns. It was such a shame we couldn't even take photos of this part of the cave. After we headed deeper in we soon reached a part where it was only accessible by boat. This is where we saw our first glow worms. Little tiny blue lights shining down from the ceiling. Our tour guide very much shouted every piece of information to us and at one point I had to move away from him for fear he'd burst my ear drums! We boarded a boat and when all the lights in the cave were switched off we floated down the tunnel and saw the most amazing collection of glow worms hanging on to the ceiling and walls displaying their bright blue colour. We all sat in silence as we moved around the area and at times we were only centimetres away from the insects. When we got very close you could see the silk like strands the worms dangle down from the ceiling. It's these strands that trap any prey that flies in towards the glow worms light and all the worm has to do is real them up on their sticky strands. It's a very clever insect because it was the only light source in the cave and many insects are attracted to light and would be lurred into their trap. We left the twickling insect display behind and headed back out the cave where we had a coffee and a talk about the glow worms. On the boat ride back we were blessed with a perfect rainbow in front of us in the sky. Back in Te Anau and after getting some cream for my annoying sandfly bites we headed to the petrol station where Nick helped a lady used the old fashioned machine to pump up her tyres. A few minutes after she left she returned with a bar of chocolate to thank him for helping her. The photo shows Nick's "appreciation" face which is basically him looking like he's going to cry. We drove some of our journey to Milford Sound this afternoon and are staying in the last department of conservation site on route for the night. After an amazing trip to Doubtful Sound yesterday we're quite excited to see what Milford has to offer tomorrow.もっと詳しく

  • The incredible Doubtful Sound

    2018年5月7日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    What a long but amazing day today has been. We camped on the last freedom camp spot available up until Milford Sound so we had a bit of a drive this morning to get to Manapouri where our Doubtful Sound trip commenced from. This meant a nice early wake up for us both and after saying goodbye to our chicken friend we were on our way. The first part of our tour was a boat ride across Lake Manapouri. This in itself was a beautiful trip with wonderful views around the lake. The gloomy weather added a level of mysteriousness to the mountinans and hills and I found myself almost continuously clicking away on the phone camera. After an hour or so we reached the end of the lake closest to the sound itself. Here they've utilised the power of the water and have built the largest water sourced power station in the country. Although this is great that they are harnessing renewable energy it did ruin the views and forest around a little bit! From this point we were collected by coach for a 45 minute journey to the boat. The driver was informative and pointed out many highlights and features along the way. Eventually we were on-board our vessel that was going to take us around the fiord. There was 32 of us which we were quite pleased about when the maximum they hold on one tour is 135. We had lots of space to move around the boat and the complimentary tea and coffee didn't have much of a line at all because there wasn't too many of us. I got talking to an American girl who I think by that point was on her 6th free coffee. She definitely would be having a cafdine crash right about now. The scenery was simply stunning and the mist rolling off the mountains made everything even more beautiful. I had Ed Sheeran's Misty Mountian song from the Hobbit stuck in my head pretty much the whole 3 hours we cruised around. Because of the recent rain lots of temporary waterfalls had appeared which ran like strands of hair down most mountain sides. When we reached the Tasman Sea at the end of the fiord we were treated to a great air show by some albatross who seemed to be using the boats waves to try and catch any disoritentated prey. One of the highlights of the cruise was when we pulled into a bay and the captain asked everyone to stand still and silent and then he proceeded to turn off the engines completely. We stood in complete silence just admiring the scenery around us. It was a very powerful moment to take that time to truly appreciate how lucky we are to be blessed with such a beautiful wonderful planet, something we take so for granted. I'm so in love with a quote which I think was said recently by the French pesidient; "there is no planet B". This definitely came to mind in that moment. After 3 hours of beauty we headed back to main land before the bus and boat journey took us back to Manapouri. We'd booked into a campsite only a minute up the road so we headed there and soon discovered it's way too small for the amount of business they attract. About 8 couples all squeezed into a tiny kitchen to cook and it was a battle to try and get our laundry done on the two machines available. It's been a long evening but we have managed to book ourselves onto a glow worm cave experience and a cruise around Milford Sound. It's going to be a busy couple of days and we're rather exhausted from today so it's definitely an early bed tonight.もっと詳しく

  • Very pleased we bought a head torch

    2018年5月6日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had a bit of a bad nights sleep with the rain but today was another day and it seemed to be a bit brighter. This morning we discovered how quickly the weather changes in Southland, one minute it's sunshine and the next the rain is coming down hard and fast. The clouds move so quickly here and with nothing but ocean until you hit South America you can see why this area of the country has so much rainfall with no islands to take the brunt of the storms rolling in. We opened the curtains to find the chicken sat outside staring at us. He'd been rather noisy during the night but luckily because we parked quite far from the bridge it wasn't too loud for us. Southland is made up of many fiords the most visited being Milfound Sound, the only fiord accessible by road. The second most popular is Doubtful Sound and we made the decision to do a day trip there. The weather for today isn't looking too fab so we drove from our camp spot until we found signal to ring up the company just to double check they'd be running tomorrow if the weather was bad. Turns out they operate in all weather so we went ahead and booked our cruise. We visited the only coffee shop nearby and it actually turned out to be a pretty sweet place. We bought some organic honey collected onsite as well as a loaf of home made wholemeal bread with pumpkin seeds, and the coffees we originally visited the place for. The cafe had an adorable cat who much like Echo at home didn't really appreciate but definitely tolerated me picking him up. Another down pour rolled in while we were in the cafe but we were determined to do something today so we headed back to Clifden to a cave system they have. It's a long tunnel cave which you can explore from one end to the other unguided as long as you follow the signs. Luckily we have a head torch we bought so Nick wore that and I followed up with the hand held one. The whole tunnel takes around 2 hours there and back but we only made it about ten minutes in before we decided it had got too narrow and with our backpacks and my knees not being great we made the decision to turn around and come back out. We met a family at the entrance who didn't even bring torches so they wouldn't of got very far at all. Although it wasn't the grand exploration we had planned the part we did see was pretty incredible especially when it's accessible without a guided tour. With no freedom campsites available on our route for a while we decided to spend another night with our chicken friend before heading to Manapouri tomorrow for our Doubtful Sound tour. We spent the evening discovering how terrible Nick is at Connect 4. He's getting much better at Boggle now and is usually getting at least half of my total score so hopefully his Connect 4 abilities improve from his loss of 10 to 1 (the one he won was accidental and he didn't even notice he'd won). Here's hoping!もっと詳しく

  • A suspiciously familiar looking bridge

    2018年5月5日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a bit of a chilled out day today. We've got a stretch of visiting quite remote places for a while so we made the most of Invercargill's supermarket this morning and bought a good amount of supplies to last us for the next week or so. Our freedom camping spot also had a dump station so we were able to get that sorted as well. It turns out that there isn't much to do in Invercargill so we decided to park up and have a wonder. Luckily we found street parking exclusively for campervans, and it was free for 3 hours, so we left the van there and walked around town. The town hall was one of the grander buildings we saw on our route. It wasn't long before we ended up in Starbucks with coffee and a white hot chocolate to warm us up. Someone clearly likes knitting here because outside all the street lights were covered with knitted animals. Even the bicycle stands had snakes knitted around them. They certainly added a handmade charm to the place. After using the Wi-Fi to catch up with messages we called it a wrap on Invercargill and headed back along the southern scenic route towards a town called Clifden. As we drove the winds picked up and a weather front had definitely kicked in. The South West of the south island is the wetest part of the country and we definitely experienced this first hand. Nick read online as we drove that they were predicting 120km/h winds in some parts of Southland but I tried to reassure him that the prediction was likely to be for the areas right by the coast. As we approached our destination the winds died down and it was just rain we were dealing with. However by the time we pulled up into the campsite (a carpark for the Clifden bridge) the rain had stopped allowing us to get our and explore. The suspension bridge looked very familiar and given it's name it's hard to believe there is not a link to the Clifton bridge back home. The information plaques did not mention the Bristol bridge and spoke in a way that implied the Clifden bridge is a feat of engineering for its age, despite being built after the UK version. You couldn't help but wonder if the artitect had got hold of the designs and plans for the Clifton bridge and just adapted them slightly to suit this river. It was an impression bridge still which had a rustic feel to it with all the wood used. We enjoyed the area with a couple of fantails in tow, definitely our favourite New Zealand animal so far. Their cheeky and playful attitude around you just makes you smile and when they started winding up the chicken who seems to have taken up residency here it was rather entertaining. The rain didn't hold off for long so we spent the rest of our evening reading, playing games and cooking up a storm in the kitchen, well kitchenette.もっと詳しく

  • Winning the best dressed competition

    2018年5月4日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today we set off back on the road we travelled yesterday to visit Catherdral Caves. We'd managed to find signal so checked the low tide times on their website to make sure we didn't miss it today. To double make sure we didn't miss it we arrived an hour early and were the first ones there. By the time the lady had been down to check if the conditions were suitable and was ready to open the pathway there were around 20 other cars present. She gave us all a talk and started off by saying that Nick and I were the only ones best dressed for the occasion, result! The caves are sea caves and we knew we'd get wet so we had our trousers rolled up and wetsuit shoes on ready. She warned everyone there was knee deep water and she gave them time to ponder if they wanted to enter. As she knew we had decided we got to pay first and head down the track. Nick and I flew down the 20 minute walk knowing we'd get photos with no one else in them if we hurried. The forest was amazing but we knew we could appreciate it later, it was a race to get there before the people behind us. We powered across the beach and eventually came to a huge cave tucked around the corner. We climbed over the rocks to avoid the deepest part of the water until we could drop down and it was up to our knees. Towards the back of the cave the water ends and we were able to walk around on the sand and explore. The cave has linked to another one next door to it so we headed on out into this one which was an impressive 30m tall. The water level changed dramatically every minute or so and it wasn't long before even our trousers were getting wet. We didn't mind and kept moving around to see every part of the two caves from all possible angles. We walked out into the sea so we could get a view of the cave entrances from the outside. This involved waiting for the waves to retract and quickly getting through a deep section and onto a sand shelf further out where the water was only knee deep at most. The waves here were amazing to watch because several waves flowing in different directions would lap over each other and create beautiful linear patterns in the water. We spent a lot of time here and as tide started to come in we headed back to the beach and up to the carpark while admiring the forest more than we had when we rushed down previously. We spent time drinking tea and drying out in the sun before setting off on the drive to Invercargill, the next town on our route. We spent the afternoon at the swimming pool, combining having a relaxing time in the hot tub with much needed hair washing. The centre was super cheap and offered a hot tub, sauna and a leisure pool as well as the main area. We had a great time playing catch and using floats shaped as rings to test our ability to throw the ball through the rings. The life guards did give a few funny glances as we played with the kids toys but we had a great time so we didn't care. Feeling relaxed and well showered we headed to our freedom camp spot for the night. We're in a car park tonight opposite a field home to two donkeys and a goat. Hopefully they don't make too much noise!もっと詳しく

  • Closest we'll be to the south pole...

    2018年5月3日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    ...unless we go to Antarctica or the tip of South America! But for today we visited the most southerly point of the south island and closest to the South Pole we have been so far. Slope point is just one of the many places we visited today on our road trip around the Catlins. We woke up to the most amazing sunrise this morning and I spent about 20 minutes outside taking photos and just admiring the beautiful colours. It inspires me so much to paint and I can't wait to start up this passion again when I get home. I've always liked art but really have let it slide since school so I think it's something I will revisit especially with a phone filled with amazing inspiration to work from. After packing up after breakfast we headed to our first stop for the day. We had a slight delay caused by a herd of sheep moving paddocks down the road. Initially we stopped and waited for the sheep to come but they never stopped coming and in the end one of the farmers came down on his quad and told us to just drive through as he'd be ages. Very slowly we helped push the sheep along the road to their new home. It's amazing how without anyone guiding them they just follow the ones in front and know where they have to go. It was a cool start to our day. We reached Matai Falls which flows down from Horseshoe Falls. All these waterfall tracks are quite short and sweet but it was still a very enjoyable walk. We still can't get over the beauty of the forests here and it makes us want to explore the woodland back home more. We had a 30 minute return walk to Lake Wilkie next which showed the development of the forest from lakeside to mature forest. We had hoped to visit Catherdral Caves but it is only accessible at low tide so unfortunately we'd missed the time for today so we plan to loop back tomorrow to go there. Instead we decided to carry on and spent time marvelling at the petrified forest at Curio Bay. It's quite an amazing sight to see trees that have turned into stone. It's crazy that it can even happen. I took a slip on the rocks and twisted my hip funny but luckily it seems to be okay now. Nick almost slipped in response as he jumped down trying to catch me. After our walk to Slope Point we finished our day at Waipapa Point which has a pretty lighthouse on the hill edge. This is also the site of NZ's worst civilian shipping disaster where 11km from land the S.S. Tararua sank killing 131 of the people on board. As we walked around in the sand dunes we were shocked to see 3 sea lions just casually sleeping at the base of the lighthouse. Annoyingly despite the signs asking people to give them 10 metres of space when we passed them again later we saw someone about a metre away from one making noise to try and get it to wake up and sit up for a photo. We gave them a very disapproving stare but as we walked back I wished I had said something to them. No wonder sea lions are not very common in New Zealand, why would you stay if people didn't leave you in peace. We headed to the town of Fortrose which seems to have probably only 20 people living there. Our freedom camp spot for tonight is on the edge of a waterway that has lots of different species of birds around. Some of the spots we've been able to camp on are such a beautiful place to visit in themselves.もっと詳しく

  • The most picturesque lighthouse

    2018年5月2日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Today we left Dunedin and the beautiful Otago peninsula behind and continued our road trip south. We did spend time visiting a couple of shops to buy a second power bank for us to use on the road. Most of the time when we are paying for powered sites it's to charge our phones more than the van so with a second power back hopefully we won't need to plug in as much. I also managed to bag myself some shorts for the equivalent of £1! We drove the scenic coastal route to Nugget Point lighthouse which is possibly the most picturesque lighthouse I've seen. It gained it's name because of the nugget shaped rocks in the ocean surrounding the area that people said looked like gold nuggets when the sun hit them. On the walk up we saw fur seals down on the rocks below and even more around the rocky shores below the lighthouse itself. It looked like tourists were once allowed to climb down from the lighthouse to the peninsula rocks below but a high platform has now been installed to prevent this happening anymore, probably to give the seals some peace. After eating some lunch overlooking the beautiful surroundings we headed back to the van to continue our drive. We briefly stopped at a small bay where there is a viewing platform to see yellow eyed penguins. After everyone saying they hadn't seen one yet we decided not to stay seeing as we only saw some yesterday. Our last stop for the day was to Purakaunui Falls, and what a waterfall that was. We had a lovely walk through luscious overgrown forest down to the viewing area for the waterfalls. It was a three tiered waterfall with three wide rock shelves so the water powering down it was captivating to watch. The sheer power you could feel in both sound and vibration was also impressive. There's lots of waterfalls to see in the Catlins so it will be interesting to find out which we like best. After enjoying the walk back while listening to all the forest song birds we drove the short distance to a DOC (department of conservation) campsite at Purakanui Bay. It did involve a long drive down a dirt/gravel road but it wasn't too bad a road to go down just very very long. We arrived to a beautiful bay and because of the recent rain we parked up on the gravel part available furthest from the ocean to avoid the mud. We paid our fee and went on a walk around the shore front and even managed to see a sea lion at the far end of the beach. The sun began to set as we returned creating lovely soft colours in the sky. The rest of the night was spent playing games and admiring the night sky. It'll be nice to fall asleep to the sound of the ocean tonight.もっと詳しく

  • Close encounters

    2018年5月1日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    What an afternoon. I don't think we've ever been so drenched in all our lives! Our wildlife tour was booked for 1:30pm so with the morning available we headed to Starbucks to use the Wi-Fi to plan the next steps of our trip. We are heading into the Catlins next, one step down the island which includes New Zealand's most southerly point on the south island. We spent a good few hours here sharing drinks and researching places to go and things to see. Nick made a members of staff's day at one point when he made a gruesome discovery on the toilet floor which she had to spend about half an hour with tissue up her nose clearing up. You could smell it from across the shop so we felt incredibly sorry for her. With our plan sorted we headed to our campsite for the night and plugged into the power straight away before getting ready to go. The bus was a little late but soon we were on our way out to the albatross centre, an optional extra. We chose not to do this tour and we are glad we didn't because they were only in there for half an hour and from the outside we saw the birds flying anyway and the free exhibition inside was very interesting to read in itself. Once we were reunited we drove to private farm land which only the farmers and our tour company have access to. On route many species of birds were pointed out to us and extensive information about them was given so the 40 minute journey went quickly. The company uses the money from tours to do conservation work for the animals that have made this area of coastline their home. This includes planting lots of native New Zealand plant life providing a safe place for the world's rarest penguins to nest, the yellow eyed penguins. When we arrived the heavens had really opened and being on an exposed hilltop we were soaked almost instantly. We split into two groups, one of Chinese and then everyone else. Our group went to the fur seal lookout first which was a battle to climb down to in the wind and rain. Luckily we entered a hut where we could look down and see the animals on the rocks below. It was amazing to see and we spent time learning about the animals while watching them play and interact with each other. We soon had to brace the weather again to head back up towards the bus and down the other side of the hill to the beach. Here we passed about 6 of the Chinese people sitting back on the bus. Turns out they got half way down and came back because of the weather so they've all spent over a hundred dollars and seen no animals! Down the other side we entered this planted conservation area and were lucky enough to see who yellow eyed penguins really close to us on the path. Our guide said it's the closest they've been to the path in months. This is because the penguins are use to the tours and the guides respect them so if a penguin is on the path the group will go around them on a different route but unfortunately they had surfers trespassing to the beach and since then they've stopped coming near the path. Down on the beach we were metres away from huge sea lions which was both brilliant and incredibly nerve wracking. It was entertaining to learn that the large males basically claim the smaller males as their boyfriends and fight any other male who tries to take him away, this behaviour is them practising for when the females return and they'll have to fight the other males for them. Therefore the large males puffed out their necks and stared directly at us almost challenging us to try and take his boyfriend away. Nick now does the best sea lion impression! We also saw penguins coming into the beach for the night and climbing back up to their nests high on the hill tops. By the time we were back on the bus there wasn't a part of us or an item of clothing that wasn't soaked. Back at the campsite everything went straight in the wash and dryer and we both had the best warmest showers I think we will ever have. It was such a fantastic experience but so unbelievably cold and wet at the same time.もっと詳しく

  • New Zealand's only castle

    2018年4月30日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    When you find out you're in the town that has New Zealand's one and only castle it would be rude not to pay it a visit. It was built in the 19th century by a settler for his wife. It has no defence purpose and was purely so he could give his wife a castle and to make her feel more at home in this new land. Because of this it is incredibly beautiful in appearance and sits high on a hill top on the Otago peninsula. It fell into disrepair until it was bought by a new family in the 60s who could see the potential in restoring the castle for their family and public to enjoy. We are very glad they did this. The information they have provided on the history of the original family is extensive and the rooms are beautifully decorated in their original style. Some rooms you could see needed attention but the money they receive from tourist views helps pay for them and the 90 staff they now employ to achieve this level of maintenance. They have even managed to buy back some of the original pieces that were in the castle but sold off at auction when it was abandoned. The weather was still not shifting so it was good to be doing something inside today. After exploring the inside which included a walk up to the top of the tower, we headed to the ballroom for some drinks and a mini afternoon tea. They were not quite English scones but they weren't bad. Luckily the rain seemed to ease so we explored the gardens while we had the chance. Our plan for the night was to stay in the same freedom camp spot we did last night so we headed back into the city once we were all castled out for the day. We decided to explore some more of the street art here and parked up in the train station for a wonder around town. The free map shows you where all the main ones are but we did stumble across a few more including a large tribute to Ed Sheeran who recently did a concert here that seemed to max out the cities tourism resources with every possible accommodation being booked up for miles on end. While we walked around town we happened to spot one of our favourite places, Nandos, and we just knew it had to be done. After a few more artworks with a couple of charity shop visits thrown in we sat down to share some much needed chicken after not having it for so long. We've also booked ourselves on to a wildlife tour for tomorrow out on the peninsula. The weather is meant to be brighter so fingers crossed we have a chance to actually dry everything out a bit and see some animals.もっと詳しく

  • A very gloomy Dunedin

    2018年4月29日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    With the weather deciding to still be rubbish we decided it was a good reason for today to become a museum visit day. Everything is harder in the rain especially when you don't really have a good way to dry anything. We were trying to look on the bright side and drove the misty short journey from our beachside camp spot into Dunedin, a city first settled by the Scots. It's a much harder city to navigate with lots of one way roads and after we found out that the museum doesn't have a carpark we then faced the battle of city parking in what feels like a massive van to us. It isn't that big at all really but definitely feels it when trying to park. After a couple of laps we found a parking spot at the end of a row so I could drive in and with Nick's guidance we parked up well. It is also Sunday so the parking was free which was a bonus. On the way to the museum we discovered our first piece of Dunedin street art, a huge piece with many fairytale characters and scenes shown. I do find these street artworks definitely add character to a city and if the weather clears up we plan to explore more of what the area offers. We didn't hang around long to appreciate it because of the rain and eventually we entered a warm and welcoming museum with many other people who had the same idea for today's activity. While I sat and waited for Nick to go to the toilet I noticed a little girl, about 2, going up the stairs but continuously looking back and no one seemed to be with her. A minute or so later a very distressed dad carrying a baby was spinning around the lobby calling a girl's name . I ran over and asked if he was looking for a blonde girl and he said yes so I pointed up to the balcony where she was and the look of relief as he ran up the stairs was very heart warming. It was always my biggest fear when working as nanny, especially because the child isn't yours. The museum itself was huge and very extensive in it's collection of artefacts. It does get quite overwhelming after a while with the level of information there is to read. We decided to go to a planetarium show on dark matter which was incredibly heavy and quite intense. It was interesting but because dark matter is a theory we didn't really learn anything because no one knows what it is. The museum also had an amateur photography competition exhibited. The most moving and shocking photo was for the "human impact" category. The winning photo shows two Kea parrots, a native bird to NZ, fighting over eating a cigarette. It was this amazing photo to look at and then you read what is happening and it really hits you what a powerful message it shows. After feeling like we'd packed as much information into our brains as we could for one day we faced the rain once more and drove to our freedom camping spot for the night, a pub carpark by a green. Some of the freedom spots are in such random areas but when they're free you don't really mind! We settled down for a rainy night and made homemade pizzas for tea. Hopefully the weather gets better tomorrow. Going outside to turn the gas on and off in the rain isn't much fun!もっと詳しく

  • We saw a wild seal!

    2018年4月28日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    It's rainy and miserable today and has been since last night. We have our first experience of dumping the waste and filling up the campervan with water in the rain. I don't think anything could be more fun than standing in the pouring rain holding a hose in a hole while it tries to fill up 100 litres of water. Eventually after getting soaked we were off and ready to see Omaru. It's a Victorian town known for it's Victorian style buildings. Firstly we went to a cheese factory and shop. We'd missed the tour of the factory for today so instead we shared one of their cheese tasting platters. I was very proud of myself because I gave blue cheese a try. Didn't like it at all but at least I tried it. Nick loves the stuff so was rather pleased he got the whole piece to himself. Once we finished we moved on and after I messed up the parking metre and ended up paying for parking up until Monday we braved the rain for a walk around town. Luckily the main high street is mostly under cover so we only had quick sprints across the roads unprotected. I'm very glad we have waterproof covers on our backpacks. We darted into an old fashion sweet shop to have a look around. We found many UK sweets so bought all the things we've missed while chatting to the owner. The interest we showed in the business resulted in him offering for us to stay the night in his house with food and showers available. It was an overwhelmingly kind and unexpected offer but we always feel quite nervous in these situations so we politely declined. After all you want to have good faith in people but we had only just met him. We went to a steam punk exhibition which was rather strange and quirky but at least it was indoors. They had a mirror room which was pretty cool to stand in. The rain started getting really bad when we came out and we made a dash to a coffee shop where we sat feeling sorry for ourselves with hot chocolate and coffee. We considered what we wanted to do here in Omaru and after checking the weather came to the conclusion that actually we might as well move on because most things are outside. Once the rain eased a bit we headed back to the van with a couple of visits to charity shops where we got a great Lion King and Westlife CD to play on the road. We waved goodbye to Omaru and headed south and despite the rain we stopped at the Moeraki Boulders which are huge random spherical rocks on the beach. They believe they formed millions of years ago in the mud and as they did so they cracked apart, these cracks were then filled with another substance so when the boulders are split open they look as if they've been hand cemented together in pieces. The cracked surface really makes them look like dinosaur eggs. After our visit we continued to drive south to find a spot to camp. All the places were quite exposed but eventually we came to Shag Point, a place I heard you could potentially see seals. We drove 2km to the end of the point and peering off the cliff we were amazed to see two fur seals. It was so exciting to see actual seals in their natural habitat. Once we felt we had invaded their space enough we drove to our campsite for the night. They had an area for self contained vans and an area for non self contained. Stupidly the area for self contained, which are likely to be large heavy vans, was on grass which had flooded quite badly. After Nick ringing up the council to check we were able to park in the other section on gravel for the night. Hopefully the rain isn't too hard tonight and we are able to get a good nights sleep.もっと詳しく

  • Pretending to know about wine

    2018年4月27日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Last night we had our first bad experience with freedom camping. There's a bit of a bad vibe around it and some people are very anti camping for free because they believe the campers contribute nothing to the economy. I mean it's not like they pay tax on diesel, pay road user charges as well as actually buying or renting the camper in the first place. I do understand the frustration with people who go to the toilet anywhere they feel like or clean their teeth and spit it in a bush as we have seen this ourselves but people with genuine self contained vans have no need to do any of the above. Luckily the laws changed last year so now only vans that can have an accessible toilet with the bed made up can be certified self contained, this will get rid of the backpacker cars which only just fit a bed in the back and buy a toilet just to get the self contained status to then ditch it. So last night at about 11pm a guy in a red ute which we think is from the farm across the road came into the field where everyone is parked up and started beeping his horn. Nick opened a curtain to look which resulted in him pulling up right by our window and beeping continuously until we opened the curtain and he sped away. It did put us both on edge and we hope it's our only run in with any negativity. On the bright side we woke up to a visit from a wild, although not so wild, cat outside who was rather adorable. We hit the road to Kurow, a town about 1km long if that. There's a big wine industry in New Zealand so we stopped for a wine tasting followed by a morning snack of pizza because who doesn't need pizza as a snack. The woman was lovely and we had the place to ourselves. We weren't bowled over by any wines but it was a good experience seeing as it's a big thing here. Our next stop was Duntroon, an even smaller town, where we had planned to spend the night because there was a campsite mentioned on our app that offers clothes washing as well. After checking out the facilities we found they were in a small scout hall style building and there was no washing machine so we decided to not stay and move on. Before we did so we visited some Maori rock paintings which unfortunately were not that impressive. Most had been removed by early settlers and the ones remaining were very faded or had graffiti on. The surrounding cliffs were quite impressive though and resembled honeycomb in structure. We also went to Elephant Rocks which is a site like Castle Hill which we visited previously that has huge limestock rock formations. Disappointingly there aren't any rocks shaped like elephants but with huge grey boulders you can see how it got it's name. We'd booked into another campsite listed on Campermate only to arrive and discover it's in a woman's back garden which is very angled. It had started raining and with her assistance we tried to park in a level spot which ended in us starting to get stuck in the mud. We were worried we'd be stuck and unable to get out if we stayed so we decided it was best to leave. Even then getting out with hardly any rain the van struggled to get traction. In the end we went all the way to Omaru and paid for a Top 10 campsite so we had power, good showers and managed to do 3 loads of washing which we've been needing to do for ages. As the washing was on and Nick was making dinner we played the Game of Life which they had for communal use. We had a lovely evening in the end so despite trying 3 campsites it all worked out for the best and now we have lovely clean clothes too!もっと詳しく

  • We saw icebergs!

    2018年4月26日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After a rather good nights sleep we got ready for our first hike that we've done in a while. The campsite has the start of the Hooker Valley track, an estimated 3 hour round trip with the destination of a lake at the base of Hooker glacier. We're so use to being cold at night that when we wake up and get ready for the day we automatically layer up in clothes and thermals. This was a big mistake for today because it ended up being so hot. Near the start of the track is a memorial for all the people who have been lost or died in this area of the mountains. The plaques of names were extensive and it really brought it home how even the most experienced climbers can't always win over the conditions of the mountains. Although the route was beautiful and with wonderful scenery it was a little sad how many people were walking it. At times you felt like you were in a queue either walking one way or the other and it was lucky if for a brief moment you couldn't see another person. Mt. Sefton was on the left of us the whole way and as the sun rose even higher the mountain became even more beautiful. We had to cross 3 swing bridges on our route that could hold 20 people at one time. Although they were bouncy they looked newly updated so felt incredibly safe. Each bridge passed over the river below indicating we were one step closer to our destination. Our legs felt a little tired from yesterday's glacier walk and I also had the bruise on my shin giving me a bit of grief so we took it at our own pace and enjoyed every part of the surroundings. Eventually we made it up the last climb and over the peak to see the glacier lake below with icebergs floating in it and Mt. Cook in the background. There were about a hundred people around but luckily the area you can explore here is large so it wasn't too overcrowded. It was surreal seeing actual icebergs up close and on a day that was so hot. They weren't small either, some were at least the height of us. There was a group of young children throwing rocks at them trying to sink them which we felt a little sad about especially when the dad was encouraging it. It would be a shame if they succeeded and there wasn't as many for other people to enjoy. After some food and taking in the scenery we headed back the way we came and made it back to the van in half the time of the way there, mainly because I stopped a lot less to take photos on the way back. Having a flask of tea waiting for us in the van was amazing and after a quick pit stop we drove to the base of the Tasman glacier, the one we hiked on. You park by the huge rubble deposit and climb up many steps to get a good view of the glacier lake below. They have an interesting image that shows you how much the ice has melted over time. We followed a path to visit the blue pools nearby which are small mini lakes left behind when the ice melted. The path goes over rocks so we actually went to 3 different pools but felt that no one continues after the first one because of the rocks. It was quite nice to be doing a part that not everyone does especially after such a busy track this morning. We headed back on the road and waved goodbye to Mt. Cook and the surrounding beautiful mountains. We couldn't of had better weather to explore this wonderful place and we definitely felt sad to be leaving. After a quick food shop we've bunked down tonight in a freedom camping spot just outside Omarama. Tomorrow we plan to head back towards the east coast to continue our journey down south.もっと詳しく

  • What an amazing experience

    2018年4月25日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today has just been amazing! We went on a tour to explore the Tasman glacier, New Zealand's biggest glacier. We woke up early because we needed to be at the meeting point for 9 and we didn't want to be late. We had worried it wasn't going ahead because you need at least 4 people for the trip to run but luckily a group of Chinese people had booked on so we were partnered with them. We arrived and were fitted with waist harnesses which initially we thought would mean we are roped together to but I think they were a safety precaution in case anyone fell down a crevasse. The group of Chinese people barely spoke English, most none at all and one was slightly better than the rest. We did feel sorry for our guide Ant when trying to give a safety briefing of how we get on and off the helicopter. After the demo we headed to Mt. Cook airport which is only for small planes and helicopters. We did have a half an hour wait but soon we were off in our own helicopter with just our guide, the pilot and the owner of the company. We touched down on the ice and once the other helicopter dropped the rest of the group off we all crouched down holding our bags getting almost blown backwards as it took off again. Suddenly we are signalled to stand up and there we are on the ice of a glacier! The surrounding mountains provided the most amazing backdrop. We were fitted with crampons which are so awesome to walk in, even with sheer slippery ice you can stamp your foot in and still step up. We also had a pole for balance so that our feet and pole always formed a triangle. In a single file line we followed Ant around the maze of cravesses, holes and frozen over pockets of water looking for ice caves. The first one we came to he had to anchor a rope into the ice so we could use it to climb down one by one. He was so knowledgeable about the glacier and it's features, it was a shame only we understood what he was telling us. Every question we asked he had an answer for which we were very impressed by. At one point when I was at the back of the line I came down into a small dip and my foot went straight through the ice and I fell pretty much flat on my face whacking my shin. I felt super embarrassed and Ant didn't seem too happy that it happened and tried to remind everyone to follow his exact footsteps so the person at the back is walking where he did and where it's safe. I think my shin will have a mighty bruise in a few days. We had a hard descent into one cave where we climbed down on rubble which often slipped and moved. There's lots of debris which is trapped in the ice, apparently from a former mountain, which is deposited around the glacier as the ice melts and exposes it. Amazingly tiny rocks in the surface heat up in the sun and melt the ice below, as they do so they start to spin and eventually it'll form an ice cave which I think is pretty incredible. At the bottom of the rubble we found the most beautiful cave, that led through into a cravesse which we were able to walk through. I've never seen ice so blue before. I had a second near miss where my phone fell out my pocket down the ice but luckily Nick was drinking glacier water in the stream below so he managed to catch it. It was a scary moment and I could just see it flying off down and hole lost forever. On that note 74 people are missing on this glacier alone which is harrowing. Our guide actually found the body of a climber from the 70s who had been frozen in the ice and only last year was exposed. His two climber partners are still missing. Being there you could see how easily it could be to fall so far down that no one could find you. We learnt that all but two glaciers in the whole world are melting at alarming rates to the point where we may be the last generation to be able to see them. This one alone retracts around 450m a year leaving a huge pile of rubble at the base between the remaining ice and glacier lake where most of the water collects. It's retracted so much that Lake Pukaki is no longer it's glacier lake but instead it's miles from there and now only small rivers now connect the two. We spent time exploring more tunnels and caves and even headed off in a small group with our Ant to check out a shadow in the distance while the remainder of the group wanted to rest with the bags. It was t a cave as Ant hoped but a huge ice overhang which was rather impressive. After 3 and a half hours exploring we headed back in the helicopter. Once we debriefed and did our thank yous we headed to our campervan and went to the campsite near Mt. Cook village to spent the night. We did a short hour return walk to Kea Point which overlooks another glacier lake as well as Mt. Cook and Mt. Sefton. It's been an incredible day and I'm so glad we chose to do this trip.もっと詳しく

  • Such incredible scenery

    2018年4月24日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After a chilly but good nights sleep we woke up and opened the side curtain to beautiful views of the lake beside us. The sun began to rise and through the gap in the trees the sky and lake began to display beautiful golden tones. It's hard to get up and get ready when there's such beauty happening outside that you want to watch. After a bit of a slow morning we left the lakeside behind and travelled back down the gravel road onto the highway. We stopped by in Twizel to have our first experience of emptying the toilet. It wasn't so bad and the chemicals we put in our toilet definitely made the actual drain smell a lot better. Our destination for today was Mount Cook Village, the furtherst you can go and stay near the mountain itself. Driving along the 55km road the scenery was amazing and with every kilometre you get closer to Mount Cook and the view becomes even better. Nick was regretting that I was driving as every minute or so I was asking him to stick the phone out the window to take a photo. We eventually arrived at the village and it didn't take us too long to find a parking spot. We went and visited the Sir Edmund Hilary exhibition which was all about not only him being the first person to climb Everest but also many climbers who had climbed Mount Cook, New Zealand's tallest mountain. Sir Hilary used Mount Cook as his practise run for Everest although he did say he found Cook harder. The first three people who climbed Mount Cook actually took one of the hardest routes, not that they knew that at the time, but they still managed to achieve their goal. Even being on the ground looking up at the peak you can see how quickly the clouds roll in so it's easy to see how weather conditions can change so rapidly up there. The best part of the exhibition was the films shown. We watched three in total, the first being about the mountain rescue teams positioned here at the base of Mount Cook. It was incredibly emotional to watch because it shared the rescue attempt of a climber who was descending from the mountain with his friend after making it to summit. They climbed down a rock face, the heaviest man going first to check the rope, but when Justin the second guy began to descend and with only 5 metres until the bottom the anchor came out and he fell onto the steep angled mountain face below and all his friend could do was watch him roll down 250m of ice and snow and into a crevasse. After finding him he has to make the horrificly hard decision of leaving him to climb to a hut to radio for help. After 7 hours the rescue crew managed to get him out and he was flown to hospital. They managed to get his temperature back up to 37 degrees and stabilise him only for him to pass away 15 minutes later. It was a heartbraking story and because it showed actual footage from the rescue it made it even more emotional. The other films we watched were a 3D film of Mount Cook and a planetarium show on black holes. I may or may not of fallen asleep during the one about black holes! After a quick visit to the visitor centre we headed to our powered campsite for the night in Glentanner and had the most awesome showers after a quick walk down to Lake Pukaki as the sun was setting. We're getting am early night tonight so we can be up and ready for our glacier exploration tomorrow!もっと詳しく

  • Starting and ending our day by a lake

    2018年4月23日, ニュージーランド ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We woke up early this morning to catch the sunrise over Lake Pukaki. Last night was one of the colder nights we've had but we both slept reasonably well, hopefully this means we are getting use to it. As Nick made his porridge I headed on down to the lakeside to admire the changing colours of the sky, mountains and water. Although not the most vibrant sunrise it was still incredibly beautiful and peaceful to sit and watch. Nick joined me, breakfast in hand to enjoy the show. That morning we witnessed the downside to freedom camping. It turns out one of the vans that parked in front of us late last night isn't certified self contained so it isn't allowed to be parked there and can only go to paid campsites with facilities, because they have no sink or toilet. This was emphasised when we witnessed the guy from said van brush his teeth and spit it out near the lakeside before urinating on a tree nearby, even though there are pretty good toilets 200m away. They clearly wanted to not get caught and make a swift exit but they opted to rent a cheaper non self contained van so it is frustrating to see them getting away with being there and abusing the landscape. Freedom camping has recently got a lot stricter because of people like this and it's a shame on everyone else who is treating the environment with respect. My favourite quote related to this is "take only photographs, leave only footprints". If only everyone had the same mentality. Despite this, waking up knowing we are parked on a lakeside with views of the alps was just fantastic. After breakfast and getting sorted we headed to the vistor centres at Pukaki and Twizel to get an idea of what to do today. This has resulted in us booking and tour to the Tasman Glacier near Mount Cook, NZ largest glacier. The trip includes a scenic helicopter ride over the alps before landing on the glacier itself to do a hike hopefully with some ice caves exploration as well if the glacier has any on the day. They provide us with all the clothing and gear to walk on ice so we are super excited to do it on Wednesday. It was expensive but we figured this is why we've worked for 8 months so we can do amazing things like this. We decided to then visit Lake Ohau, the one lake everyone seems to miss because it's a detour from the highway. We ended up on a gravel road going 20km an hour because we didn't realise there is a sealed road available further down the highway. Finally we arrived at the edge of the lake and a dam. There's lots of canals for salmon farming around here and where the canal meets a lake they have a hydroelectric dam in place. Everyone was parked here to fish but we headed up the road only 100m or so until out of sight of these cars and came to an amazing lookout carpark where we backed the van up and opened the doors to get another beautiful view. We made tea and sat for a while enjoying not being able to hear a single other person around. We spent a good couple of hours sat with the doors open playing games and enjoying the scenery even if it did mean every bug ever tring to come into the van. After a while we headed to our camp spot for the night which is on Lake Poaka and after admiring the autumn colours as we strolled around the lake we've come inside to bunk down for the night and to make stir fry. There's so much natural beauty here in New Zealand, it's wonderful.もっと詳しく