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My Camino

September - October 2017
A 39-day adventure by Dan and Arlene Read more
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  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 21

    Hornillos to Castrojeriz - 12.5 miles

    October 12, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Had a nice breakfast of crosants, toast, jelly and coffee and noticed that my host had an autographed picture of a scene from "The Way" by the film producer on his wall. Nice.

    Left in the dark as it was a one horse town and easy to get out of quickly. Nice and cool, but got warm as the sun rose. I was reminded of one of my favorite songs as I started...On the road again, love to be on the road again...playing music with my friends, etc. Willie Nelson made a good one.

    Have been singing a bit too, well, not too much and only when no one is within 200 yards or so, but Peter, Paul, and Mary is one of my favorite groups... "500 miles" and "where have all the flowers gone" are tunes I can relate to from younger days.

    Terrain was much the same as yesterday and got much closer to the wind turbines that you can see in yesterday's pictures (you need to expand the pictures to see them on the horizon).

    Saw the remains of a field of sun flowers and am reminded of the ones we had this year at home that were consumed by the bears and squirrels. I guess it does rain on the plains of Spain from time to time.

    Another breakfast break at the first community (2 hours away from where I stayed) and love the chocolate pastries. Charged up I continued and ran into Kathy from Australia. We walked the rest of the way and found an albergue in Castrojeriz. Cleaned up and laundry is in the dryer.

    Today is a holiday so most commercial businesses are closed, but the bars are open (wonderful) and a beer for lunch makes me fit in with the locals. Great lunch with a totella and beer. Had quite a group with England, Canada, USA, and Poland walked up as we were finishing. Very nice day to sit outside for lunch and engage in idle chatter. Dinner is next!

    Wonderful group dinner. Three courses..salad, desert, and not sure what I ate for the entree, but it was tasty.

    Done for the day. More manana.    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 22

    Castrojeriz to Boadilla - 20 kms

    October 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Well, sooner or later this was bound to happen. No, I did not sleep with my pack on...must worse. It appears that I got some bad milk in my coffee and threw it all up within five minutes. Three more times already and I hope I've got this stuff out of my system, but I need some solid food to feed the furnace.

    Given this, I was still able to finish 20 kms and found a nice hotel room for 25 euro. Been chilling out and resting.

    Did not get my usual early start and it was warmer than the past several days so that was good. This being the third day walking the Meseta and quite frankly the scenery was about the same as yesterday. Shortly after leaving Castrojeriz, the trail started up a rather imposing hill with a concrete walkway down the other side. Seeing the sun come up was nice and you can gain an appreciation for the vertical distance.

    So I staggered into Boadilla and am hopeing for a better day tomorrow    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
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    1
    Day 23

    Boadilla - Carrion de los Condes 25 kms

    October 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Felt much better this morning. Should, I guess, as I got better than 24 hours of rest.

    Left before sunrise as it gets pretty hot on the Meseta once the sun is up. This was the third day of the Meseta with two to three more to go before I get into more vegetative areas. Typical desert, brown and very dry.

    Walked along the Canal de Castillo for some of the walk, but most of it was beside a highway with a ditch separating pilgrims from the cars. Very boring walk. I did run into a girl from Boston that moved to Charleston and said she was never going back to New England as the winters were too tough. No surprise there.

    Made several stops as I needed food and one was in a barnyard as the picture suggests. Others were more typical cafes without the barnyard animals. One thing I've noticed is that there are many, many cats...more cats than dogs as best that I can tell. I suspect the mice population is pretty low. Also have not noticed many birds. Given the large amount of bread you would think that birds would be everywhere.

    Upon arriving in Carrion, I checked out a few hostels, but all were booked. The last place I tried, the owner called around and found a room in the convent. Eighteen euro for a private room with the facilities across the hall, and a nun to do my laundry (for free). I must be doing something right.

    Went out for a bocadillo, but my stomach still needs some time so I'll try something else.

    Enjoy the pictures    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 24

    Carrion to Terradillos - 18 miles

    October 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    According to the book, I have 378.3 kms to go. Wow, who would have thought.

    Was up early, feeling pretty good and was set to leave the parochial school (I think that was where I was staying) when I was offered coffee, fruit and breakfast cake. Was I delighted, and I must admit that I have never received the kindness extended from complete strangers before. I offered a donation, it was refused, but I insisted. Great people and perhaps my looking like a great Grampa bear had something to do with it?

    Left in the dark and the headlamp was of great value. Never got lost, walked with a gentleman from England for a bit, then moved along as I wanted to get a few miles under my belt before it got too warm. After 15 minutes or so, had to take off my fleece as it was much warmer than previous days so that was not good news. Did notice much more vegetation so hopefully am getting out of the Meseta and into more hospitable terrain.

    Trail initially was along country road, then a country lane with small gravel to walk on and trees along both sides. Trees appeared to be aspen like given the shape of the leaves, but then I don't know for sure.

    After about 12 miles...an oasis appeared and potatoe pie with a large "just squeezed" orange juice. Love the sweet taste and sugar is what I needed. Ran into Jarvia, a young man from Baltimore of Spanish descent, and I met he and his wife at Orisson. Unfortunately, he was the one that snored like a pen full of pigs and no one got any sleep. I gotta make sure that I never bunk in the same albergue with him again. I have never experienced anything like that before.

    A beautiful sunrise and the cloud cover made for a delightful walk. Trail was comfortable and I could make good time. Please notice the potatoes in the field. Nice color and shape right? Zoom in and. .. surprise, surprise. That's where those potatoe size rocks come from.

    The albergue today is very nice. Got a room for 4 with its own shower and toilet for 10 euros. If I'm lucky, I'll be the only one here tonight. Overall I've been very pleased with the albergues that I've stayed in. A good set of earplugs can drown out most night sounds.

    I'm in for the day, wash is drying, had a large fresh salad with tuna and a coke for lunch, and will check out the dinner menu later. Tomorrow is another day and almost 15 miles to go.    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
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    Day 25

    Bercianos to Mansilla - 16.7 miles

    October 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Once again, I left before breakfast and walked into Bill from Connecticut that is in Europe for about three months. An older gentleman that met a young lady from Holland and has thoughts of walking the Camino again, with her. Well now, let your imagination take you where it will!

    The first pic is obvious but I thought it was kind of different with my headlight illuminating it. Do not understand why it appears on its side as I took it vertical. ..anyway, must be find penguins.

    Ran into the two Frenchmen that I first met at Orisson back on day two (still talking about the snorer that kept all awake that night) at my breakfast break so we are on the same schedule, but that is about to change as I am spending three nights in Leon to rest up, smell many roses, and get my stomach back in shape as I am still not eating as I should.

    Not sure of the fruit in the second picture so perhaps someone can comment. They appear to be a type of pepper and my guess is an abinero pepper (check my spelling on this one).

    The walk was somewhat like yesterday - along the road, but I am getting closer to the end of the Meseta. More greenery and more humidity. That reminds me that this mornings weather forecast called for showers and cool and breezy weather so I got all decked out in my finest rain gear...rain paints and gaters initially, and walked out into the dark. It did sprinkle enough to throw on the poncho and dampen the dirt so every footfall did not result in a cloud of dust, but the downpour did not occur.

    Thought the canal shot was interesting. Reminds me of the LA drain system except this is used to irrigate the fields, and Spain does have a high speed rail system. Had to put my phone camera on speed control to capture this one.

    Met the first two pilgrims from Norway this morning as well. They are walking from Burgos to Leon and we chatted for a bit. They too had heard of Willie Nelson and his song "on the road again ". Saw them in Mansilla at the hostel I was trying to get a room in, but the owner only had a three bed room and she wanted 40 euro so I kept walking. Another was closed for the season and I think the third one I tried was out to lunch so I stopped by the hotel and got a room with a private shower. One thing I will always appreciate from this experience is how nice and comfy my shower is at home. Roomy, all the hot water I want, can take a leasurly shower, and not have to hug the wall to get the water to drip out the shower head on to my head. We are fortunate to enjoy the benefits in and of our country, and the hard work that so many engage in.

    There was mercado in the town square and I visited it to graze and admire all the fruits and veggies available, but the vendors were in the process of loading up so I found a supermercado and got what I wanted (yogurt, apples, apricots and some hand cream - the Meseta really dries things out).

    Also noticed that Spain is increasing the highway system. Not sure why as I seldom see more than a few cars at a time, but I guess they are planning for the future. They should perhaps visit Atlanta, GA and will soon understand what traffic is all about.

    This evening the hotel restaurant is having a pretty good meal from what I can tell from the menu so I will eat there and stay in as the temperature is getting quite chilly.

    Tomorrow, Leon, and some much needed R&R!    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 25

    Terradillos to Bercianos- 15 miles

    October 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Pretty warm this morning so I left my fleece packed as I thought I would need to take it off shortly anyway.

    It's only rained once since I've been in Europe, and that was just a sprinkle, so rain tomorrow will be a blessing of sorts. Since I leave well before daybreak, my headlamp has been reflecting light off the dust particles floating in the air and I can see them near my eyes so this is really dry. Throat and nasal cavaties are pretty dry. Wildfires are creating issues here as they create issues in the states. Wonder if any have made the national news?

    As I was trying to navigate through a small village in the dark looking for the yellow directional arrows I noticed a group of three women approaching me with packs on. Going in the right direction, I asked. No, was the reply and we all walked back to the intersection to find the arrows. Nice group of elderly Welsh women (I suspect all were in their late 70's or possibly older). Anyway, one was having foot problems and I was chatting with one of the others about what life was like in Wales. Interesting to say the least. We had a break together at a small cafe and I shared half of my huge, but stale, sweet roll with the one having foot issues. We shortly parted ways as I needed to keep moving.

    Saw some interesting sights in addition to the typical Camino scenery - one thing of interest was the meeting of the Camino Madrid with the Francis in Sahagun. Thought there would be a traffic circle or something, but did not see any increase in pilgrim activity nor was there a marker that I could find. Just the map. I will admit that I did not waste my time looking for something that might not exist so I took a couple of pictures of the city gate and the attractive bridge over the river (right now it is barely a creek).

    The day turned out warm, ran across a couple that I had met several days ago, and finished in Bercianos where I was told that there were no washing machines in town (population of 450) so did the barest of necessities to get by. Just hope the stuff dries on the line as it is going to rain early and stuff pinned to my pack is not going to dry.

    I am two days from Leon so with the rain we'll see if walking in the rain is much fun. I know when I walked on the mountain, it was no fun at all so I suspect a similar emotional situation will occur tomorrow.

    Seeing more greenery and with the rain, flowers just might jump out of the ground.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    1
    Day 26

    Mansilla to Leon 11.2 miles

    October 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This morning reminded me of one of those delightful mornings in October. You know, when you wake up in the dark and hear the gentle rain falling against the windows. You think that since there is nothing much to do today, just roll over and catch a few more minutes of sleep So you tuck your hand under the pillow and catch another 40 or so until nature's alarm clock awakens you. Then you put on your slippers and robe, quietly walk into the kitchen to make a wonderful cup of hot coffee. Oh my! My hands embrace the warm beverage mug and I quietly sit in my favorite chair, sipping the beverage of delight and engage in reading the news, or just staring out the windows. That's sort of how my day started.

    I work up in the dark to the sound of rain gently falling against the window and thought...@#@@###&&*. So I turned over and went back to sleep until nature's alarm clock went off. Then I put on my slipper boots, my gator sock covers, my pajama bag, and my poncho robe and tried to find the kitchen for that wonderful cup of heaven. Someone forgot to tell me that the lights were out and I could not find them. I could hear others moving around and making too much noise on such a wonderful day in October.
    I found my way out of the bedroom and after way too many minutes and miles finally found the kitchen for a warm cup of Java and the joy that it brings. The kitchen where they deliver coffee to my favorite easy chair for me to enjoy. I even paid for that bit of heaven and the angle thanked me. (This ain't no dream).

    Cound not resist fanticisng a bit, but those simple pleasures that we take for granted sometimes mean an awful lot when denied. But one day soon, I will again put on my slippers and wrap my hands around a wonderful cup of java and enjoy the morning in my favorite chair.

    Needless to say it was raining this morning and made for poor pictures, but my rain gear kept me dry and I enjoyed the walk into Leon where I found an upscale albergue just across from the cathedral. My laundry is being done, have cleaned up, and will venture out shortly.

    Had a good lunch and now relaxing in a chair charging the phone. Why, I do believe it is time for a nap (another one of those wonderful times in October when the gentle sound of rain generates an overwhelming desire for a little snooze).

    Leon has much to explore...until tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 28

    Leon - Day 2

    October 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Ahhh, I sit here at a local restaurant enjoying a coffee, large orange juice, and a crossant with ham and cheese. Yummy. It is chilly this morning, about 38, but no rain is expected.

    Leon has quite a Roman influence with their initial presence around the time of Christ. Two city walls were built, one in the first century AD, and the second in the third century AD. Good examples remain of both walls and they remind me of Hadrian's Wall in northern England. There is an excellent museum here pertaining to the Roman influence and the mockup of a barracks is a spitting example of an albergue. Seems like the Romans continue to have an influence on the Camino. Current excavations continue to reveal more information about that part of Leon's history.

    I walked around the old city and it's historical sites this morning except for the cathedral and I'll save that for tomorrow.

    The Basilica of San Isidoro was quite nice, but I really liked the wooden carving in Iglesia Ntra Sra Mercado...and the narow, curvy and winding streets. One could get lost without a map and if not for the many watering holes, die of thirst and malnutrition before being found. Hey, this is a really cool place to hang out for a couple of days.

    Also of interest is the Casa de Botines. Looks like a fairy castle.

    More pics tomorrow as I've maxed out for today.

    I'm chilling out for the rest of the day as one purpose of taking a couple of days here was to rest and get ready for more walking. Plan to have a pizza tonight at a place recommended to me by Thomas, the young German pilgrim that I met what seems like many days ago now. He found a place that serves fantistic pizzas so I'll try one. I'll add that where I'm staying is called Globetrotter and the "dorms" remind me of a new Pullman sleeper car. Double berths with a very narrow walk space. Nice, quiet, and the facilities are just across the hall. Oh, I do like this trip.

    Excellent pizza. Until tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    1
    Day 29

    Leon - Day 3

    October 20, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    Dark and cloudy this morning, and the party goers that were celebrating last night until who knows when are still tucked away somewhere, but not where I can hear them. Most bars close at 2 am so there must be a lot of folks on vacation.

    The first picture that I added is one of the illuminated cathedral taken last night. Quite dramatic I think.

    Just had a very comfy cup of coffee followed by juice and another crossant which completed my early morning breakfast. Will need another in an hour or so as my appetite is returning and I have miles to go. Oh yes, the pizza I had last night was probably the best ever. The crust was thin, soft and chewy and the ingredients were excellent. Ate the whole thing (so proud of myself for being a little piggy) and it must have been 14 inches or so. Would have taken a picture, but then we know what a pizza looks like and there are better things to record and share.

    Been trying to figure out how the Spanish can eat so late, and eat out as often as they appear to do. What do they do with the kids? Given all the bars and restaurants, and the absence of motorized traffic people must live downtown, or at least very close by and can walk to shops, etc. Also wonder how the bars, etc. make money as there are bars everywhere, and I do mean everywhere. Well, I'll give that some thought when I have nothing else to think about.

    Just returned from a mercado with a quart of OJ and some dried fruit. This will suffice until an early lunch.

    My visit to the cathedral was inspiring. Construction began in 1253 on the site of an older house of worship. Amazing structure and a marvel of artistic and building talent. I've included several of my favorite pictures for your enjoyment.

    For being an off day and an "off the feet" day, I've been walking a lot. Wanted to capture another picture or two of the Roman walls that encircle the old city. Modern Leon is outside the Roman walls and it is interesting how they integrated the old walls into modern building as I am certain that there are laws pertaining to the preservation of antiquity...however, they have the same issues we do with vandals defacing relics with paint. Too bad.

    Leon was a good stop for a couple of days for me to recoup my strength and energy. My appetite appears to have returned with a vengeance and now I can understand how the bars make money...the pilgrim's of course. Lots of hunger and thirst. Plus we do not drive vehicles, only walk, so the environment is cleaner.

    By the way, Leon is one of the few cities in Europe where tapas are "free". No extra charge! How about that! A free meal that is free. Of course, one first has to travel to Leon for the free tapas. (Always a catch).

    I went across the ally for a pilgrims menu, but was told no. They were not serving and the impression I got was that no pilgrim meals even though there was a sandwich board outside. Anyway, my roomie, who is from England, suggested a heavy sandwich shop just down the street so I tried there. Really did not want to wait until 8 pm for dinner (just finished and it is 5:15 pm). Reminded me of a Subway and the chicken and ham hot sandwich was delicious. The bread, though not soft like a subway, was much softer than the traditional bocadillo I had been getting. That, plus a nice salad and a Coke, will keep me happy until tomorrow.

    Hope you enjoy the pictures. I've a 12 miler tomorrow and the weather looks to be ok for walking (as if I have a choice).    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    2
    Day 29

    Leon to San Martin, 16 miles +/-

    October 20, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Well now, it's Saturday, and my favorite restaurant was not open as early as yesterday so I left sooner than I wanted, and on an empty stomach. Hooked up with several other pilgrims as we tried to find the arrows in the starlight walking several miles on pavement, sidewalk, etc. as we navigated through the industrial part of West Leon. Went up a few hills with a very cool breeze blowing into my face. Had on my jacket zipped to my neck, gloves, and used the chin strap for the Tilly or it would have been a UFO flying into the sky.

    I did find a bar that was open early on for a coffee and a piece of potatoe pie, then later, an open mercado for an apple and a snickers bar. That was tasty (the snickers, then the apple to clean the choppers).

    A good bit of the walk was along the highway, or just off it so the scenery was not the more enjoyable woodsy scenes that remind me of the mountains, but did enjoy one brief instance that the camino took me through a canopy of autum leaves.

    Noticed a couple of cute photo ops and captured them. The last pic is of my room in the albergue - all for 20 euros, and dinner tonight at 7 consisting of chicken and rice.

    Had lunch along the way at a rest stop. A burger with a piece of bacon, two pieces of processed lunch meat, fries, salad, and a coke. Way too much food for me, but I did a good job with it.

    The last few miles I walked with a South Korean that spoke pretty good English. He could not have been older than 25 and was enjoying his first camino. Had a huge pack, but with the temperature forecast to be 35 at 7 am tomorrow, probably smart of him to pack all those clothes. For myself, I'm looking for another fur lined something. Guess I'll have to wear everything I've got as it is not expected to rise out of the 40's until I arrive in Astorga. Thinking about stopping over there for a night as I have the time and there are more Roman ruins to investigate as well as the cathedral.

    As I write this, it is 4 pm. I am sitting in the restaurant area so I can get wifi, and enjoying a cup of warm coffee as it is still chilly outside, too chilly to sit in the sun.

    Dinner was quite enjoyable with others from around the world to share the meal with. More tomorrow.    Read more

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