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My Camino
  • Dan and Arlene

My Camino

A 39-day adventure by Dan and Arlene Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 22, 2017
    Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Friday, Sept 22. Time to pack.

    September 22, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Sprayed my sleeping bag and backpack yesterday with anti-bug juice and it is dry so today I need to stuff all into the pack and weigh it one more time.
    Got it packed with some throw away clothes so it is a bit heavier that I want, but it should be just about 18 pounds when I start the Camino.Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    My bags are packed, ready to go

    September 24, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Up early today, excited to begin the travel day. Leave at 1340 and arrive in Madrid tomorrow at 0830. Plan to do a walk with rick steves Madrid app and eat some tapas at a local restaurant recommended by mi amigo Bob. Reservations in Madrid.

    Watched "The Way" one more time last night to get in the mood for the trip.

    At airport, said goodbye to Arlene and she captured a pic for the history books as well as the best dressed person award. Not sure about the hat!

    In Atlanta, a man approached me and asked if I was doing a camino. Said his wife thought I was. Asked me if I was going to Santiago. Said I was but it will take me a few days. Said his wife was very perceptive. Ok then.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    2

    Monday, Madrid

    September 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Little sleep on the flight over and we walked forever to wait in the customs line. When my turn came, the passport officer said not a word, but stamped my passport and I was on my way. Found an ATM that worked so got a few euros, and got assistance from tourist info to reach my hotel. Got to learn how to dial in this country. I'll try 011 in front of the number next time.

    At hotel, checked in and ready to take a metro to Puerto del Sol for food and sight seeing.

    Took the metro, but had lots of trouble finding it. I used my limited Spanish and was successful. Plazas Sol and Major were big and crowded . Folks here smoke more than Americans do and was it obvious. Tapas are wonderful and I made a meal of what I got. Rick steves audio guide gave me some difficulty as I had to restart often as the volume died.

    Anyway, after a fashion I realized that I gotta take a nap so all for now.

    Two hours and I feel great. Hope I can get some shut eye later. I've also learned that the Spanish have trouble giving directions that make sense. For example the directions I got this am for the metro seemed pretty simple...straight, then make a left. He even gave me a map. Wrong way as I had to ask multiple times and had all sorts of twists and turns before arriving at the metro, and finding a supermarket with directions proved to be an around the block twice effort. Go straight he says, but the street curved to the right. I found it and had a wonderful tuna salad sandwich for dinner.

    All for today...    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Madrid airport and St. Jean

    September 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Good breakfast this am. Sliced chicken or turkey, ham and cheese along with coffee, juice, and a pan ah Chocolate (forgive the spelling, but I'm an engineer). Met a traveler from Boston that was on an elder hostel tour. Had many activities planned, but she never heard of Old Fort (too bad).

    Arrived at airport three hours early in order to deal with the hassle and my lack of knowledge. Big place and covers a large amount of space. Had pack checked for my cissors, but got them through security along with the battery so am good to go.

    Notice the jamon. Looks good, and the talking robot was a demo.

    In St. Jean, very pretty, and settled in. Feel like a kid in a toy store...so excited to be attempting to do this.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    2

    St. Jean

    September 26, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Arrived by taxi along with 5 others so the taxi bill was pretty cheep per person.
    Checked in, went to the pilgrim's office and am using their wifi as I write.
    Beautiful area, puffy clouds and very mild temps.

    One shower for 20 folks so it is tight to get clean. Dinner at 1930 with lights out by 2200.

    Feel like a kid in a toy shop. Quite a place. Sharing a room with two other guys, one American and have not met the other, but he was from Belgium. Enjoy.

    No coverage for the next two days so check back in a day or two.

    My limited Spanish is coming in quite helpful. More later    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Orisson Wednesday September 27

    September 27, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Foggy in St. Jean. Walked around a bit hoping the fog would lift. Left for Orisson around 0930 and enjoyed a steep climb with 19 pounds on my back. At top, had to make the bunk bed with very thin mattress covers and will put sleeping bag on top. Should be cold tonight as it is quite breezy now and we were provided thin blankets.

    Several couples that stayed in St. Jean decided to stay as well as the climb to Roncesvalles is steep. I have 9 miles tomorrow and am not looking forward to it..    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Orisson to Roncesvalles -Thursday

    September 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Was in a room of 6 and one snoorer kept the rest of us up. Sounded like a cross between a freight train and a pig. He probably has sleep apnea.

    Anyway, the English word for a french breakfast on the Camino is NOTHING worth writing home about. A full English would be heavenly.

    Left before sunrise and the walk was easier than yesterday except for the steep downhill at the end that went on forever.

    Lots of sheep and all that they produce were observed. Good animals those sheep as they keep one very athletic and nimble.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Roncesvalles to Larrasoana - 25 kms

    September 29, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I'll start with last night's dinner. There were four at the table, French, German, Danish, and me. No one spoke French but the frenchie, and the others had trouble with my accent. It was a quiet meal.

    This am was cool and dark as I started after a breakfast of toast, jam, coffee and juice. Watched the sun rise, the mist in the fields, my quads angry with me from yesterday, school bells, kids riding their bikes to school, wives bringing in firewood, and pilgrims walking.

    Stopped at a Mercado for an apple, at another for juice and a muffin, and yet another for some cookies and water. Ran across the same person from Australia and we shared a few miles together.

    Upon leaving Roncesvalles, an English pilgrim behind me had a flashlight so I let him pass and got into his footsteps. We conversed for a couple of miles and ran into him again at the albergue I am staying at this evening.

    Lunch was canned tuns, a banana, and a cookie from the Mercado right next door so a midnight snack is a possibility.

    Today was a true test of my conditioning as it was 25 kms and the terrain was hilly, rocky, and at times the footing was a challenge, but I'm here and look forward to a shorter walk tomorrow to Pamplona.

    The world is the same, we just try to make things different.

    My rommies tonight are two Israelis, a German, and not sure of the other. Just hope none of them snore or all bets are off.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Pamplona, Saturday, September 30

    September 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Last night my bunk mate (he had the top bunk) wanted to rent a motel room and get some rest. Too expensive so he found an apartment and I offered to pay half the cost so for 35 euros each, we got a nice two bedroom place two blocks from the bull fighting arena. Tommy is a young German man with his own company and he brought a computer with him.

    We arrived at noon and the owner was late showing up, but we got settled then took a tour of the arena, went to the main square, and visited the cathedral. Also found a mercado for groceries and will have pizza tonight. The groceries are for breakfast and lunch tomorrow.

    Ran across a couple of pilgrims I started with (small world), one hurt his ankle and will take a bus tomorrow to give it some relief.

    This am it was cloudy and had some liquid sunshine for a couple of hours which made the trail quite slippery. The staff I purchased in Saint Jean proved most helpful.

    So here I sit with my feet propped up, the laundry is done and hung for the final dry (no dryer, just a line) and Tommy splurged for a massage so when he returns, we will go for a pizza.

    Am tired, but feel good about the walk to date. Tomorrow might be a 12 miler, or if I feel good, will walk 15 to get back on schedule.

    Pamplona is a vibrant city and the heart of it is full of restaurants and neat shops. Did not see a new pair of feet to purchase though.

    What do you think of my new clothes?    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina - 14.8 miles

    October 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Starting with last night, Pamplona is quite the party city. Returning from dinner and passing a bar, the band started playing and the people went nuts...dancing and parading down the calle. Glad they went far away as I needed to rest.

    This am, I saw the after effects of the party in the street as there were several street sweepers collecting the trash.

    First pic is the statue for the running of the bulls and dinner was a Domino's Pizza as Tommy wanted a pizza. It was good too.

    Up early and tried to be quiet as Tommy sleeps in a bit so had breakfast, packed, and left into the Sunday quietness of Pamplona. Overcast and after a bit needed to find my poncho. Initial walking was along city streets and parks so I made good time, then got to the trails and started to gain elevation until I reached the top of Alto del Perdon. You should recognize the pictures from The Way. Tough descent as lots of loose gravel the size of baking potatoes. I truly believe that the farmers put all the rocks they get from the fields on the trail and force the pilgrim's to walk on them.

    Met a young German girl and she told me she walked 42 km a few days ago and was wondering why I was stopping at la Renia. Tired said I and stopped. I am at the albergue Santiago Apostle (up hill from the bridge and I should have stayed in town). Why did they build this place up hill?

    Nice quiet town (Sunday) and I need some rest as
    tomorrow is another day with 12 miles or so. Met an ex marine from California wondering why he is putting himself through boot camp again.

    Oh yes, the beard is coming in rather nicely.

    Enjoy the pictures.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Puente la Reina to Estella

    October 2, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Had a pretty good dinner last night and a typical Spanish breakfast. The day started out cloudy, but turned sunny as the day progressed. Beautiful scenery and I especially like the arched bridges. Romanesq I would say, but do not depend on my spelling.

    Walking was not easy given the terrain. Someone must have placed rocks sharp side up just to keep the podiatrists in business. Walked up hill into one village only to walk down hill to leave and at the very top of the walk, through an arch was a doctors office. Probably specialized in the heart and available for pilgrims having a heart attack.

    The first albergue I went to in Estella was closed for the season, so wondered around and found this one (not exactly sure of the name, but there are plenty of tired pilgrims here).

    Laundry in the dryer and hopefully it will be dry in 40 minutes. If not, back on the line.

    Tomorrow is a 13 to 14 miler so I need a good pilgrims dinner tonight    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Estella to Los Arcos - 13.4 miles

    October 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Wow, a short day and somewhat easy.

    Last night I met a lady from New Zealand that recently celebrated her 50 wedding anniversary and she wanted to walk the Camino to prove to herself that she could it without her hubby doing all the planning. She was doing well. Will also mention that she is a shrink.

    For dinner I had paella with seafood, like shrimp and clams. Shrimp here are not like what we get at home. These had the heads, tails and shell, and legs still attached. Very small and over cooked so I picked through them and ate most of the rice and peas. Main course was pork tenderloin and chips with mellon for dessert.

    When I got up, a couple of the Spaniards were singing and I said "no bueno, no bueno", then in english, "that is horrible singing". We all had a good laugh.

    The laundry was dry so packed all and left as the sun was rising.

    The first pic is leaving the city looking back into it.

    The day started off cool, but a slight uphill generated enough heat to make things comfortable. After a fashion, the Camino split with the shorter path to the left. As I was about to take the shorter way, a local said take the longer way as it was flatter. Hey, my mama didn't raise any fools so the longer way for me.

    Saw a few folks from prior days, met a young man from Ecquidor and we chatted for aways until he stopped for a rest. Had coffee and a potatoe quiche at a bar, then continued towards Los Arcos arriving around 1. Room, dinner and breakfast, and laundry for 23 euros.

    I'm relaxing in the kitchen having a beer so happy trails to all of you. Tomorrow is a 17 miler so the rest of the day my feet are up!    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Los Arcos to Logrono - 17 + miles

    October 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Last night I enjoyed a group dinner in the albergue. Folks from Canada, Australia, Croatia, Atlanta, GA and me. Meal consisted of a salad, some sort of a pea soup, and dessert. Of course there was wine and bread. Still hungry.

    One thing I've learned is that the up hills are followed by nice downhills, or when life gets tough, be patient and things get better.

    I am glad to say that Spanish kittens enjoy having their head and neck scratched as much as American kittens. Almost put one little guy in my pack to bring home.

    Most left before I did as it was a long day, but most of the walk was of mild assents and descents. A couple of the climbs I thought I was going to scrape my nose on the gravel in front of me (steep climbs).

    Met a young girl from Tiawan and all total I guess about 20 countries so far. I'll save the philosophical comments for near the end of my walk, but am thinking about my experiences.

    Nice cool morning and made good time until the sun heated things up, then I slowed down a bit. Gorgeous scenery once again with the vinyards on both sides of the trail and the leaves changing color. Great weather and I hope it continues.

    Had a break at a seasonal cafe and as I looked in my backpack for a goodie or two, I was hoping that my leprechaun would have something good...and I found five chocolate covered mini donuts. Gotta say that they were the best damn donuts I've had in a long time. Great with a cafe con leche.

    Longrono is a large city (155, 000) and I am staying close to the heart of the restaurant area. Passed by a couple of ice cream shops, tempting, but decided it would mess up my dinner so I got four yogurts from a mercado and ate them all after a potatoe dish and a cold beer.

    Tomorrow will be a shorter day. Schedule calls for 18 miles, but will cut that in half so I am not so tired.
    Enjoy the pics.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    2

    Longrono to Ventosa 12 miles

    October 5, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I had to look at the guide book to determine where I am. Been walking too long.

    First pic is the group that I enjoyed dinner with last night. Normally the Spanish do not eat before 8 PM and we were chased from one restaurant, the Drunken Duck, only to find a restaurant that was willing to break with tradition, feed six pilgrims early and make money. Eleven euros each for a three course meal, water and a very good wine. Yummy. Will do that again.

    Private room was nice and I enjoyed the quiet.

    The morning was chilly, but after three large chocolate donuts, I was ready for anything. Ran into one of the Australian folks from day one and we had a mid morning snack, then it was pointed out to me olive trees, walnut and almond trees, and grape vnes. Grapes were very sweet and I had to explain how to clean them before chewing them (swish them around the mouth and spit out the dirty salave before chewing the grapes). Works every time. Learned that from a comic strip when I was a child.

    Today was an easier day for me...and I enjoyed it. Needed to do some laundry and relax. Tomorrow will be more milage, but not sure how much.

    Sunrise was looking over my shoulder at the industrial area of Logrono so decided to not take pics. Walked through parks, ducking sprinkler water to stay dry, then open countryside and finding the turnoff for Ventosa. Had lunch, laundry is done and drying on the line so I should smell nice in the am.

    Note the bull, the church (beautiful ), and the sign in front of the wine making facility.

    More stories to tell, but will wait.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Ventosa to San Domingo - 18+miles

    October 6, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Hope today's mileage is the longest I'll walk as my dogs are tired.

    Left in the dark, but had the light of a full moon to guide me. Used the headlight a few times, it was impossible to see the yellow arrows as Ventosa is in the country. Believe it or not, but smaller than Old Fort by a wide margin. Seemed as if I was walking in a rock bottomed gully for a good half mile before it leveled out.

    The sunrise surprised me. I turned around and there it was...blazing away and I'm thinking that the temp is going up quickly, but I was fortunate that the clouds and breeze kept the temps down so it was a delightful walk.

    Ran into a couple of folks from prior days, had a cafe con leche with some donuts, and kept going. Also enjoyed seeing a fellow pilgrim with his mule doing the Camino.

    Arrived in San Domingo and the first place I tried (hostel) was full so I walked to the municipal albergue and got a bunk in a room of 20+. Had a great lunch of a chicken sandwich and a beer, looked around some, then decided that I really needed to sit down and capture my thoughts.

    Early dinner tonight and rest.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Santo Domingo to Belorado - 22 km

    October 7, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It was quite chilly this morning, frost on the pumpkin and I could have used more clothing. Glad I kept the throw-a-way plaid shirt as it came in quite helpful.

    Think I'm getting the hang of the camino and have learned that my pack is now a permanent part of me. Will sleep with it on one day soon I'm sure.

    Anyway, when I arrive at the albergue and check in, I then stake out my bed and check out the shower facilities to determine if I need to bring the suction cup hangers and how much clothing. Some have no hooks, some have hooks inside the shower facility, but everything gets soaked during the brief shower. Some only permit 5 minutes so one must be quick.

    Once that is done and it's a wash day, a race for the sinks to handwash, then hang on the lines. Always a battle for the sunshine.

    Lunch is next and whatever I can get will suffice.

    Dinner is at 8 pm (but that varies if I am at a place that caters to the pilgrims like today).

    Lights out at 10, up at 6 or so and the days walk begins.

    Best part of the day is coffee at a cafe after walking for an hour or two. This morning I ate a couple of chocolate donuts I purchased at a mercado yesterday. They got me going and an apple after coffee was enough to tide me over until I arrived at the albergue where I got a fabulous lunch consisting of a hugh salad, fried eggs and ham, flan for desert and all chased down with wine. Yummy, now for dinner!

    My walk was quite pretty today and the hills were moderate so I am thankful for an easier day with the terrain. Area appears to be somewhat arid, but perhaps they are not having a lot of rain right now.

    Laundry is in the washer and will put in the dryer soon. While waiting for the laundry, I met a couple from Scotland. They use a Spanish company to book reservations and transport their baggage and walk a week or so each year. A nice way to approach the Camino as age gets the best of all of us. Also shared a beer with a couple from Delaware that I met in Madrid. Retired young and traveling as much as possible.

    The sign is interesting as I have over 500 km to walk, and the sign shows all the communities I'll pass through on my way to la Laguna de Castillo with well over 155 km left to Santiago de Compostilla. Lots of walking yet.

    If you are interested in how far I've walked, the challenge will be to check out the web and add it up. That I ain't gonna do 'cause I do not want to know. :)

    PS: Find Pinguins lets me add 6 pics each day so you are getting the best.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Belorado - San Juan de Ortega - 15 miles

    October 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Weather said it was 45 this morning so I put on my fur lined kitchen sink that I always carry in my pack. Felt really nice too.

    Wanted a bite of breakfast and the sign said open at 0700 but they were late. Finally, I had a slice of cake, coffee , and juice. Ready to go.

    Good walking early and I enjoyed the cool temperatures so I made good time for a couple of hours. After reaching Villafranca, the trail changed and the direction was up hill through a gully with plenty of potatoes and eggs to stumble around on. Up hill for the next forever until we reached a service road that must service the wind turbines. Saw a bunch and they do not put these things in valleys so it was a climb.

    Ran into a lady from New Zealand at a cafe and we chatted about marathons until time to move on.

    Shortly thereafter the trail was in the woods with no cafés and more rock. Anyway, I arrived in de Ortega, found a nice room and am relaxing. Lunch was the biggest bocadillo I've seen...must have used the entire loaf. Doubt I'll have much for dinner as that thing was huge.

    Thinking about a trail name. Folks that hike the Application Trail use them as it retains a bit of privacy so I'm thinking about "whiskers " as my trail name. Thoughts and recommendations are welcome.

    Pictures are of a church (I think) in the side of a hill, a long view down the road to de Ortega, a temporary café in the woods (she was nice to me...gave me a piece of watermelon for a donation, and took my pic for her Facebook page), the pajaro cafe (pajaro means bird in Spanish so where is this going?), part of the interior of the church in de Ortega, and a really weird painting at a rest stop. Go figure.

    Enjoy, and feedback on my trail name , por favor.

    PS - if you have any questions about my travels, let me know.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    De Ortega to Burgos - 16.2 miles

    October 9, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Weather app indicated it was 39 F this morning. Another cold snap and hope it warms up more.

    Left in the dark, but with the light of a full moon to guide my way. Crossed three cattle gates and had a very nice walk until I reached an uphill, the only bad one on this part of the Camino, and I was teleported to the moon to walk on moon rocks. Take a look at the first pic and you will understand.

    As I approached Burgos, I had to walk around an airfield in the sun which was ok, but then I walked through a small community on the outskirts, then through a park that would never end. Finally reached the city and no idea where I would stay, but I saw a Camino travel business, walked in and asked for help with accommodations . Very nice man helped me, called a hostel and found a room for two nights. Had some difficulty with his directions, but got here, checked in, cleaned up, headed out for a drug store for ibuprofen and a laundromat. Got it all done and my clothes really smell nice. A very nice Spanish woman helped me with the washing machines and we conversed for a bit. We both spoke broken English and my small amount of Spanish enabled me to do what I needed to do.

    Back at the room, I am enjoying some snacks I got at the mercado and will have dinner later.

    The second pic is of a sheep correll and glad those little guys were penned up in the early am. Also enjoyed coffee twice enrout as well as two pan ah chocolates (I will admit that the French spelling is beyond me at present).

    The third pic is a bridge where I saw several pilgrims soaking their feet. As it had warmed quite a bit from the early am I was tempted, but waited to soak in the shower. Had an apple later in the park.

    Thinking about Grampa Bear as my trail handle so what do you think?

    Oh yes, I've grown tired of the beard as it looks too scraggly so got a razor and shaving cream at the mercado and will get rid of it before visiting the cathedral tomorrow.

    The Camino offers many short courses in life and we just need to be aware to learn from it. Kindness, charity and understanding as well as preservearance, independence and determination. There are many more and as many reasons to walk the Camino as there are Pilgrims wanting to walk it.

    More tomorrow as I need to take a short nap.

    Naps over, I had dinner and noticed the children playing in the park at 1930. Place is quite busy on a work night. Also some graffiti can be quite pretty as the attached suggests.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1
    1

    Burgos to Burgos - rest day

    October 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Ahhh, sleeping in is heavenly. Well, all things are relative as I got up at 0630, but that is sleeping in for me.

    Took out the razor and became a respectable looking American in Burgos and for visiting the cathedral.

    A busy city with wide sidewalks and many, many small shops and places to grab a coffee and snack. Right now I'm sitting on a shaded walk having just consumed a bocadillo with a coffee. I can really get used to this lifestyle.

    There are numerous statues around town that I need more Spanish to understand, but pretty typical of any large city with as much history as Burgos.

    The cathedral was spectatular and building began in 1220 or so. It replaced a smaller cathedral on the same construction site per the museum in the bottom of the structure.

    The audio tour (in English) provided much historical detail...more than I could absorb, but provided the religious individuals that played a part in the cathedrals' history. I need to add that the interior was spectatular with all the smaller chapels that surrounded the main sanctuary, the wood carvings, the reliefs, the gilding, the ceilings and the architecture itself. Too much to capture in pictures, but I've attached a few of the better ones.

    Small world. As I was finishing this, I looked up and there was Jim, the Canadian that was in the picture I took having dinner in Longrono. We chatted and he treated to a second coffee so I am totally charged.

    Many street vendors along the river and I found some gummy candy that I could not resist. Also stopped by the mercado for breakfast food. Tomorrow is only a 12 miler, but might as well fuel up before leaving.

    Just rerurned from dinner consisting of a smoked fish salad and a beer. Dad's walking and pushing baby carriages, older men doing the same (grandchildren I assume, but could be wrong), and all seemed to be having a wonderful evening out and about in this moderate autumn weather. I truly feel blessed to have this opportunity.

    Tomorrow is another day and until then...    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Burgos - Hornillos del Camino - 13 miles

    October 11, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Up early and decided it was just too dark to try and find the yellow arrows that would lead me out of town so relaxed and enjoyed my breakfast - a banana and a sweet roll purchased yesterday.

    I did leave in the dark (got ansy), walked with an Italian for several miles and we helped each other find the directional arrows. Twice we had to ask as the direction was not at all clear. Es este el Camino? We stayed on track.

    Had a coffee in a small village as well as a neopolitan (chocolate pastry). It's amazing how great those things are after a few miles of walking.

    This was the beginning of the Meseta, the desert portion of the country. Not a lot to see but miles of rock and dirt. Local farmers must grow winter crops here as it does rain, but not now. Dirt looked very dry and the rocks were white. Spain must be the most rocky country around as the fields are just full if them, but even more on the Camino.

    A couple of long range pictures of the terrain with one looking into the town where I am spending the night. Expand the second picture for more pilgrims in the distance.

    I mentioned the challenge of finding the yellow arrows, but one location made it quite obvious. Biggest yellow arrow in Spain (well, perhaps not the biggest, but impossible to miss).

    I enjoy seeing the various bits of decoration on the buildings, etc. that are Camino related. In Hornillos the main albergue has a very attractive mural that caught my eye.

    Had a bocadillo at a cafe across the street from where I am staying and a beer for lunch. This will last until tomorrow, perhaps longer. They do know how to use up what we would consider stale bread, but when hungry, it cannot be beaten.

    Got an early am picture of the cathedral from the rear of it. Yesterday I approached it from the river and could not get a decent shot.

    This was a short walk today, but I recall when walking 13 miles was an ordeal, but not anymore. A couple of guys were walking with their dogs. Not sure whether man or beast was more tired.

    Dinner was with a Canadian, a South Korean, an Irishman, and a young man from Poland. The restaurant even had live music. This is what generates good memories.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Hornillos to Castrojeriz - 12.5 miles

    October 12, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Had a nice breakfast of crosants, toast, jelly and coffee and noticed that my host had an autographed picture of a scene from "The Way" by the film producer on his wall. Nice.

    Left in the dark as it was a one horse town and easy to get out of quickly. Nice and cool, but got warm as the sun rose. I was reminded of one of my favorite songs as I started...On the road again, love to be on the road again...playing music with my friends, etc. Willie Nelson made a good one.

    Have been singing a bit too, well, not too much and only when no one is within 200 yards or so, but Peter, Paul, and Mary is one of my favorite groups... "500 miles" and "where have all the flowers gone" are tunes I can relate to from younger days.

    Terrain was much the same as yesterday and got much closer to the wind turbines that you can see in yesterday's pictures (you need to expand the pictures to see them on the horizon).

    Saw the remains of a field of sun flowers and am reminded of the ones we had this year at home that were consumed by the bears and squirrels. I guess it does rain on the plains of Spain from time to time.

    Another breakfast break at the first community (2 hours away from where I stayed) and love the chocolate pastries. Charged up I continued and ran into Kathy from Australia. We walked the rest of the way and found an albergue in Castrojeriz. Cleaned up and laundry is in the dryer.

    Today is a holiday so most commercial businesses are closed, but the bars are open (wonderful) and a beer for lunch makes me fit in with the locals. Great lunch with a totella and beer. Had quite a group with England, Canada, USA, and Poland walked up as we were finishing. Very nice day to sit outside for lunch and engage in idle chatter. Dinner is next!

    Wonderful group dinner. Three courses..salad, desert, and not sure what I ate for the entree, but it was tasty.

    Done for the day. More manana.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Castrojeriz to Boadilla - 20 kms

    October 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Well, sooner or later this was bound to happen. No, I did not sleep with my pack on...must worse. It appears that I got some bad milk in my coffee and threw it all up within five minutes. Three more times already and I hope I've got this stuff out of my system, but I need some solid food to feed the furnace.

    Given this, I was still able to finish 20 kms and found a nice hotel room for 25 euro. Been chilling out and resting.

    Did not get my usual early start and it was warmer than the past several days so that was good. This being the third day walking the Meseta and quite frankly the scenery was about the same as yesterday. Shortly after leaving Castrojeriz, the trail started up a rather imposing hill with a concrete walkway down the other side. Seeing the sun come up was nice and you can gain an appreciation for the vertical distance.

    So I staggered into Boadilla and am hopeing for a better day tomorrow    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1
    1

    Boadilla - Carrion de los Condes 25 kms

    October 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Felt much better this morning. Should, I guess, as I got better than 24 hours of rest.

    Left before sunrise as it gets pretty hot on the Meseta once the sun is up. This was the third day of the Meseta with two to three more to go before I get into more vegetative areas. Typical desert, brown and very dry.

    Walked along the Canal de Castillo for some of the walk, but most of it was beside a highway with a ditch separating pilgrims from the cars. Very boring walk. I did run into a girl from Boston that moved to Charleston and said she was never going back to New England as the winters were too tough. No surprise there.

    Made several stops as I needed food and one was in a barnyard as the picture suggests. Others were more typical cafes without the barnyard animals. One thing I've noticed is that there are many, many cats...more cats than dogs as best that I can tell. I suspect the mice population is pretty low. Also have not noticed many birds. Given the large amount of bread you would think that birds would be everywhere.

    Upon arriving in Carrion, I checked out a few hostels, but all were booked. The last place I tried, the owner called around and found a room in the convent. Eighteen euro for a private room with the facilities across the hall, and a nun to do my laundry (for free). I must be doing something right.

    Went out for a bocadillo, but my stomach still needs some time so I'll try something else.

    Enjoy the pictures    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler

    Carrion to Terradillos - 18 miles

    October 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    According to the book, I have 378.3 kms to go. Wow, who would have thought.

    Was up early, feeling pretty good and was set to leave the parochial school (I think that was where I was staying) when I was offered coffee, fruit and breakfast cake. Was I delighted, and I must admit that I have never received the kindness extended from complete strangers before. I offered a donation, it was refused, but I insisted. Great people and perhaps my looking like a great Grampa bear had something to do with it?

    Left in the dark and the headlamp was of great value. Never got lost, walked with a gentleman from England for a bit, then moved along as I wanted to get a few miles under my belt before it got too warm. After 15 minutes or so, had to take off my fleece as it was much warmer than previous days so that was not good news. Did notice much more vegetation so hopefully am getting out of the Meseta and into more hospitable terrain.

    Trail initially was along country road, then a country lane with small gravel to walk on and trees along both sides. Trees appeared to be aspen like given the shape of the leaves, but then I don't know for sure.

    After about 12 miles...an oasis appeared and potatoe pie with a large "just squeezed" orange juice. Love the sweet taste and sugar is what I needed. Ran into Jarvia, a young man from Baltimore of Spanish descent, and I met he and his wife at Orisson. Unfortunately, he was the one that snored like a pen full of pigs and no one got any sleep. I gotta make sure that I never bunk in the same albergue with him again. I have never experienced anything like that before.

    A beautiful sunrise and the cloud cover made for a delightful walk. Trail was comfortable and I could make good time. Please notice the potatoes in the field. Nice color and shape right? Zoom in and. .. surprise, surprise. That's where those potatoe size rocks come from.

    The albergue today is very nice. Got a room for 4 with its own shower and toilet for 10 euros. If I'm lucky, I'll be the only one here tonight. Overall I've been very pleased with the albergues that I've stayed in. A good set of earplugs can drown out most night sounds.

    I'm in for the day, wash is drying, had a large fresh salad with tuna and a coke for lunch, and will check out the dinner menu later. Tomorrow is another day and almost 15 miles to go.    Read more

  • Dan and ArleneMy CaminoTraveler
    1
    1

    Bercianos to Mansilla - 16.7 miles

    October 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Once again, I left before breakfast and walked into Bill from Connecticut that is in Europe for about three months. An older gentleman that met a young lady from Holland and has thoughts of walking the Camino again, with her. Well now, let your imagination take you where it will!

    The first pic is obvious but I thought it was kind of different with my headlight illuminating it. Do not understand why it appears on its side as I took it vertical. ..anyway, must be find penguins.

    Ran into the two Frenchmen that I first met at Orisson back on day two (still talking about the snorer that kept all awake that night) at my breakfast break so we are on the same schedule, but that is about to change as I am spending three nights in Leon to rest up, smell many roses, and get my stomach back in shape as I am still not eating as I should.

    Not sure of the fruit in the second picture so perhaps someone can comment. They appear to be a type of pepper and my guess is an abinero pepper (check my spelling on this one).

    The walk was somewhat like yesterday - along the road, but I am getting closer to the end of the Meseta. More greenery and more humidity. That reminds me that this mornings weather forecast called for showers and cool and breezy weather so I got all decked out in my finest rain gear...rain paints and gaters initially, and walked out into the dark. It did sprinkle enough to throw on the poncho and dampen the dirt so every footfall did not result in a cloud of dust, but the downpour did not occur.

    Thought the canal shot was interesting. Reminds me of the LA drain system except this is used to irrigate the fields, and Spain does have a high speed rail system. Had to put my phone camera on speed control to capture this one.

    Met the first two pilgrims from Norway this morning as well. They are walking from Burgos to Leon and we chatted for a bit. They too had heard of Willie Nelson and his song "on the road again ". Saw them in Mansilla at the hostel I was trying to get a room in, but the owner only had a three bed room and she wanted 40 euro so I kept walking. Another was closed for the season and I think the third one I tried was out to lunch so I stopped by the hotel and got a room with a private shower. One thing I will always appreciate from this experience is how nice and comfy my shower is at home. Roomy, all the hot water I want, can take a leasurly shower, and not have to hug the wall to get the water to drip out the shower head on to my head. We are fortunate to enjoy the benefits in and of our country, and the hard work that so many engage in.

    There was mercado in the town square and I visited it to graze and admire all the fruits and veggies available, but the vendors were in the process of loading up so I found a supermercado and got what I wanted (yogurt, apples, apricots and some hand cream - the Meseta really dries things out).

    Also noticed that Spain is increasing the highway system. Not sure why as I seldom see more than a few cars at a time, but I guess they are planning for the future. They should perhaps visit Atlanta, GA and will soon understand what traffic is all about.

    This evening the hotel restaurant is having a pretty good meal from what I can tell from the menu so I will eat there and stay in as the temperature is getting quite chilly.

    Tomorrow, Leon, and some much needed R&R!    Read more

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