My Camino

September - October 2017
A 39-day adventure by Dan and Arlene Read more
  • 39footprints
  • 3countries
  • 39days
  • 211photos
  • 0videos
  • 4.7kmiles
  • 4.1kmiles
  • Day 1

    Friday, Sept 22. Time to pack.

    September 22, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Sprayed my sleeping bag and backpack yesterday with anti-bug juice and it is dry so today I need to stuff all into the pack and weigh it one more time.
    Got it packed with some throw away clothes so it is a bit heavier that I want, but it should be just about 18 pounds when I start the Camino.Read more

  • Day 3

    My bags are packed, ready to go

    September 24, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Up early today, excited to begin the travel day. Leave at 1340 and arrive in Madrid tomorrow at 0830. Plan to do a walk with rick steves Madrid app and eat some tapas at a local restaurant recommended by mi amigo Bob. Reservations in Madrid.

    Watched "The Way" one more time last night to get in the mood for the trip.

    At airport, said goodbye to Arlene and she captured a pic for the history books as well as the best dressed person award. Not sure about the hat!

    In Atlanta, a man approached me and asked if I was doing a camino. Said his wife thought I was. Asked me if I was going to Santiago. Said I was but it will take me a few days. Said his wife was very perceptive. Ok then.
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  • Day 4

    Monday, Madrid

    September 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Little sleep on the flight over and we walked forever to wait in the customs line. When my turn came, the passport officer said not a word, but stamped my passport and I was on my way. Found an ATM that worked so got a few euros, and got assistance from tourist info to reach my hotel. Got to learn how to dial in this country. I'll try 011 in front of the number next time.

    At hotel, checked in and ready to take a metro to Puerto del Sol for food and sight seeing.

    Took the metro, but had lots of trouble finding it. I used my limited Spanish and was successful. Plazas Sol and Major were big and crowded . Folks here smoke more than Americans do and was it obvious. Tapas are wonderful and I made a meal of what I got. Rick steves audio guide gave me some difficulty as I had to restart often as the volume died.

    Anyway, after a fashion I realized that I gotta take a nap so all for now.

    Two hours and I feel great. Hope I can get some shut eye later. I've also learned that the Spanish have trouble giving directions that make sense. For example the directions I got this am for the metro seemed pretty simple...straight, then make a left. He even gave me a map. Wrong way as I had to ask multiple times and had all sorts of twists and turns before arriving at the metro, and finding a supermarket with directions proved to be an around the block twice effort. Go straight he says, but the street curved to the right. I found it and had a wonderful tuna salad sandwich for dinner.

    All for today...
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  • Day 5

    Madrid airport and St. Jean

    September 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Good breakfast this am. Sliced chicken or turkey, ham and cheese along with coffee, juice, and a pan ah Chocolate (forgive the spelling, but I'm an engineer). Met a traveler from Boston that was on an elder hostel tour. Had many activities planned, but she never heard of Old Fort (too bad).

    Arrived at airport three hours early in order to deal with the hassle and my lack of knowledge. Big place and covers a large amount of space. Had pack checked for my cissors, but got them through security along with the battery so am good to go.

    Notice the jamon. Looks good, and the talking robot was a demo.

    In St. Jean, very pretty, and settled in. Feel like a kid in a toy store...so excited to be attempting to do this.
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  • Day 5

    St. Jean

    September 26, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Arrived by taxi along with 5 others so the taxi bill was pretty cheep per person.
    Checked in, went to the pilgrim's office and am using their wifi as I write.
    Beautiful area, puffy clouds and very mild temps.

    One shower for 20 folks so it is tight to get clean. Dinner at 1930 with lights out by 2200.

    Feel like a kid in a toy shop. Quite a place. Sharing a room with two other guys, one American and have not met the other, but he was from Belgium. Enjoy.

    No coverage for the next two days so check back in a day or two.

    My limited Spanish is coming in quite helpful. More later
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  • Day 6

    Orisson Wednesday September 27

    September 27, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Foggy in St. Jean. Walked around a bit hoping the fog would lift. Left for Orisson around 0930 and enjoyed a steep climb with 19 pounds on my back. At top, had to make the bunk bed with very thin mattress covers and will put sleeping bag on top. Should be cold tonight as it is quite breezy now and we were provided thin blankets.

    Several couples that stayed in St. Jean decided to stay as well as the climb to Roncesvalles is steep. I have 9 miles tomorrow and am not looking forward to it..
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  • Day 7

    Orisson to Roncesvalles -Thursday

    September 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Was in a room of 6 and one snoorer kept the rest of us up. Sounded like a cross between a freight train and a pig. He probably has sleep apnea.

    Anyway, the English word for a french breakfast on the Camino is NOTHING worth writing home about. A full English would be heavenly.

    Left before sunrise and the walk was easier than yesterday except for the steep downhill at the end that went on forever.

    Lots of sheep and all that they produce were observed. Good animals those sheep as they keep one very athletic and nimble.
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  • Day 8

    Roncesvalles to Larrasoana - 25 kms

    September 29, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I'll start with last night's dinner. There were four at the table, French, German, Danish, and me. No one spoke French but the frenchie, and the others had trouble with my accent. It was a quiet meal.

    This am was cool and dark as I started after a breakfast of toast, jam, coffee and juice. Watched the sun rise, the mist in the fields, my quads angry with me from yesterday, school bells, kids riding their bikes to school, wives bringing in firewood, and pilgrims walking.

    Stopped at a Mercado for an apple, at another for juice and a muffin, and yet another for some cookies and water. Ran across the same person from Australia and we shared a few miles together.

    Upon leaving Roncesvalles, an English pilgrim behind me had a flashlight so I let him pass and got into his footsteps. We conversed for a couple of miles and ran into him again at the albergue I am staying at this evening.

    Lunch was canned tuns, a banana, and a cookie from the Mercado right next door so a midnight snack is a possibility.

    Today was a true test of my conditioning as it was 25 kms and the terrain was hilly, rocky, and at times the footing was a challenge, but I'm here and look forward to a shorter walk tomorrow to Pamplona.

    The world is the same, we just try to make things different.

    My rommies tonight are two Israelis, a German, and not sure of the other. Just hope none of them snore or all bets are off.
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  • Day 9

    Pamplona, Saturday, September 30

    September 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Last night my bunk mate (he had the top bunk) wanted to rent a motel room and get some rest. Too expensive so he found an apartment and I offered to pay half the cost so for 35 euros each, we got a nice two bedroom place two blocks from the bull fighting arena. Tommy is a young German man with his own company and he brought a computer with him.

    We arrived at noon and the owner was late showing up, but we got settled then took a tour of the arena, went to the main square, and visited the cathedral. Also found a mercado for groceries and will have pizza tonight. The groceries are for breakfast and lunch tomorrow.

    Ran across a couple of pilgrims I started with (small world), one hurt his ankle and will take a bus tomorrow to give it some relief.

    This am it was cloudy and had some liquid sunshine for a couple of hours which made the trail quite slippery. The staff I purchased in Saint Jean proved most helpful.

    So here I sit with my feet propped up, the laundry is done and hung for the final dry (no dryer, just a line) and Tommy splurged for a massage so when he returns, we will go for a pizza.

    Am tired, but feel good about the walk to date. Tomorrow might be a 12 miler, or if I feel good, will walk 15 to get back on schedule.

    Pamplona is a vibrant city and the heart of it is full of restaurants and neat shops. Did not see a new pair of feet to purchase though.

    What do you think of my new clothes?
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  • Day 10

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina - 14.8 miles

    October 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Starting with last night, Pamplona is quite the party city. Returning from dinner and passing a bar, the band started playing and the people went nuts...dancing and parading down the calle. Glad they went far away as I needed to rest.

    This am, I saw the after effects of the party in the street as there were several street sweepers collecting the trash.

    First pic is the statue for the running of the bulls and dinner was a Domino's Pizza as Tommy wanted a pizza. It was good too.

    Up early and tried to be quiet as Tommy sleeps in a bit so had breakfast, packed, and left into the Sunday quietness of Pamplona. Overcast and after a bit needed to find my poncho. Initial walking was along city streets and parks so I made good time, then got to the trails and started to gain elevation until I reached the top of Alto del Perdon. You should recognize the pictures from The Way. Tough descent as lots of loose gravel the size of baking potatoes. I truly believe that the farmers put all the rocks they get from the fields on the trail and force the pilgrim's to walk on them.

    Met a young German girl and she told me she walked 42 km a few days ago and was wondering why I was stopping at la Renia. Tired said I and stopped. I am at the albergue Santiago Apostle (up hill from the bridge and I should have stayed in town). Why did they build this place up hill?

    Nice quiet town (Sunday) and I need some rest as
    tomorrow is another day with 12 miles or so. Met an ex marine from California wondering why he is putting himself through boot camp again.

    Oh yes, the beard is coming in rather nicely.

    Enjoy the pictures.
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