Grey River

Well the sunny clear weather, with a haze of bugs has gone. We are getting a taster of good old fashioned Newfoundland spring fog. And wow is it dense and persistent. Doesn’t shift even if the wind is 30kts plus. Not surprising Titanic lays near by. Astro navigation on hold, cant see the end of the boat let alone any heavenly bodies. Last 2 day sailing approximately 25 miles per day have been in 200ft vis, using radar, trusty plotter and a cautious game plan. Having said that both destinations have very tight rocky access and todays into Grey river have 500 ft cliffs on both sides only 30 metres apart as an entrance. Which run for 1/2. A mile before a slight increase in width. Difficult to see on a sunny day, and something wouldn’t have even thought about, in fog, pre GPS.

Doctors harbour was a safe stopover with thick mud bottom offering good holding in what many would consider a premium hurricane hole. It would have been stunning, surrounded in high ground, if only we could see it. Anyway a sound nights sleep and eastward to Grey river

After an instrument guided trip to the entrance of grey river (lucky no one else here) it was pretty intimidating to see the dark cliff sharpen out of the fog and see the atlantic swell break on either side of this tight spot. We were within 100 metres before the whole view of the entrance appeared. It reminded me of kayaking to Lundy with Rupes and navigating by seagull noise in the pea souper we were in. As always once in, all was good. The small town of Jervis Cove has 90 residents and no road in or out. 2 fishing boats with 2 men on each. I was told in winter it is possible to get to the road over the mountains by snowmobile in an emergency. The harbour freezes in winter too so these people are pretty used to isolation. There is a school which had 12 children but as of today only 9 as 3 graduated. 2 teacher and a secretary. Pretty good ratio I recon.
2 of the fishermen, Bill and his brother were unloading todays catch of Halibut, on the the small dock. They took our lines and with a smile said where you from, do you fancy a cod fish for teas, “England, Yes please”. We went downstairs collected the filleting knife and three beers to drink while we chatted and were given a lesson on filleting a 8 pound cod. Bill and his brother (Ive forgotten his name) Chatted for ages and eventually went home telling us not to get lost in this 3 street town. I said could they keep the noise down in the morning as they headed out early to which they told us they had caught this weeks quota and were having the day off. Then after offering to pay for the Cod he said don’t worry we get 10$ a pound for halibut and they had caught 1 over 200 lbs today along with countless smaller 20lb ones. .

The dock was the one small open space in town where people can walk to and be social. And they came down to the dock,to see us then chat with each other and then catch a few trout with the kids. A very different existence and nice to see. Ferry was coming 9 am and we have to out of the way before it arrives (i say ferry, very small)Lue lisää