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  • Austen Davies
  • Claire Davies

Morvenna 2023

First year of our sailing trip in our Ovni 435 Morvenna. Looking forward to some great adventures with Rob and Gretel Shaw Baca selengkapnya
  • Mrs D and the Halibut

    3–5 Jun, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Mrs D has arrived, Shopping done fuel topped up gas change and we are heading east in the Morning. We are on the fisherman’s dock and they are catchingb Halibut had a nice 30 mins with the camera.

    Forgot t o take one of Mrs D
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  • Harbour le Cou

    31 Mei–1 Jun, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    After a lazy morning in the sun at Isle aux mort and having stocked up on Moose meet, It was decided to meander 15 miles down the coast to Harbour le Cou and the deep lake, just behind. We set off in the sun just a bit too relaxed. As we exited to the open see through a series of marked turns, that led us through the rocks. The weather took a turn for the un predictable. Fogg!!! Again thick and moving at 20 knots against us temperature dropped by 15 degrees and it was time to togg up for the less relaxed than hope doodle down the coast. In essence we couldn’t see a thing, it was cold and the wind was in the wrong direction.
    Radar,AIS and chart plotter on we manoeuvred into the ample channel that gained access to Le Cou harbour. Our intention was to not stay at the harbour but find our way into the the rear Barra lake behind. Luckily for us a local fisherman caught our eye and told us they had blocked the channel through to the lake with a large rope, appently to stop the drift ice coming into town. Our new plan was to tie up at he veryy small and quite shallow government dock. This small town only seemed to have 2 small lobster fishing boats and almost no inhabitants.
    We walked the trail round the headland in some drizzle then had tea and headed to bed . With a plan to explore the lake and waterfall in the morning.

    Up late as usual. Followed by leisurely launch of dinghy and a putter round the very wild lake are.
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  • Port Aux Basque To Isle Aux Mort

    29 Mei–1 Jun, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We had had 2 nights on the dock in this ferry town. Got my hair cut bought a new towel and worked out the logistics of picking Claire up from the ferry next week. It was time to go somewhere new and Isle aux Morts is just round the corner 8NM through the rocks downwind in 25 knots. What could go wrong. But first to get off the fishing dock we are pine don by the wind . All kinds of tricky springing manoeuvres required. But managed .

    Quick Genoa only sail down through the narrow western channel wher th government could not be bothered to put the navigation buoys back in yet . Then another tricky parking manoeuvre in 25kts side on . On the fisherman’s pier. Lucky Rob is nimble with the ropes we are on safe but a bit of a heavy bump as she settled. Time to see what the island of the dead is all about.
    Turns out is!!!
    absolutely dead. Rob is suicidal with Boredem. People are apparently super friendly here just no one here. Rumour of pub opening at 6 pm maybe we will give that a go. Luckily it Stanly cup Ice hockey on the tv and there’s a crowd , 4 to be exact all of which are now our mates and offering to lend us trucks and bring us food (moose meat). Sun is suppose to be out tommorow so we should head west and see what we can find
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  • Well the boat is all checked out, all systems working. Time to start on the North heading our first stop will be seal island before going through the the Bra Dor narrows. A very nice lady called Laura exchanged a bottle of wine for a stop on her dock. She told us to look out for fox cubs that were living under the shed . After a short stop We decided to make a dash for the narrows on the tide. Turned out to be a mistake, we should have stayed and watched the fox cubs. As we went under the bridge the temperature dropped and a giant fog bank swallowed us up. We pushed on for half an hour of dodging lobster pots in a narrow channel in very poor visibility and headed back to Laurer’s dock and the cute fox cubs. It was a struggle against the tide but the risk reward ratio for pushing on, no longer added up. So nice tea back on the dock a few photos and up early to catch the early tide.
    Next stop Ingonish. Which I have been into before and this time it would be foggy Narrow and Lobster pot strewn. But will give us an easy day and a comfortable night. Rob saw a whale roll over on the way in and I saw a small pod of dolphins on the way out in the morning. While I was there I got the old fold up bike out and cycle along the coast and stopped for coffee and blueberry pie in the very out of season tourist spot and entrance to the Cabot trail.

    Our next 20 mile hop is to Dingwall which is very shallow and narrow, and again we seem to be arriving at low tide. The old lifting keel boat gives us so many options I cant see I would ever go back. As we arrive the sun begins to shine and the wind die back Dingwall suddenly looks very pretty, As the stress of a narrow shallow entrance with a large fishing boat taking up the channel subsides and we are creeping into the harbour I see out of the corner of my eye an old fellow waving and beckoning us over. As we get closer it’s clear he is offering us use of his dock, result. He takes our line and clearly knows all about our unusual aluminium boat. After a brief shat in the sun we have told him our big adventure plans and he tells us he did it back in the eighties. Had all the charts indoors if we wanted to see them and talk through a plan. Then he offered us use of his truck to go shopping. Rob went for a run and I decided to cycle to the convenience store just so we had had some exercise. Han our new 81 year old friend invited us in for chart viewing and use of the shower. Everyone always super helpful. He then told us his story. He had a 60 schooner he sailed up to Hudson Bay back in the day, he was captain of a small research ship that did lots of filming work with the BBC he was friend with David Attenborough. Doug Allen and Alistair Fothergill. All of which he had on photos round his house. Han was clearly the real deal when t can to boats and navigating and it was a joy to go through his adventures with him. We said goodbye early evening as we had a 6AM appointment with tide for our next hop across the Cabot straight. About 70 NM of open sea. And we had planned to be here for the westerly about to roll through. It wasn’t knots when we woke up but at least it was highish tide to get out. By the time we were out in the bay it would be more than 30 kts we had put in 2 reefs in the main and decide full Genoa on this downwind course. We were going like a train directly at the target. Dodging lobster pots doing eight nots was somehow more fun. But the air was very cold and rob and I decided to Don the orange survival suits we had bought for this very occasion 4 degree wind moving at nearly 30 knots is pretty cold how ever blue the sky is. The sailing conditions could not have been quicker, past St Paul’s island at full pace. Then I took the opportunity to take some sun sights with the sextant to hone the skill for when it matters. Was great fun and generally achieving an accuracy of around 4 miles. (Im sure i will improve). We are flying downwind at 7 plus knots as we aprouch the rocky left hand turn into the Port aux Basque channel which will be upwind in 27kts . A mile out we reset te boat for upwind Genoa in Jib out engine on. If we have a difficult time to rocks are not far downwind in these conditions. Morvenna manages to hold a steady upwind coarse through the channel and into the dock but as soon as the sails are down the engine struggles to keep us moving forward. A tricky parking manoeuvred in strong winds and we are all tied up.
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  • Return to sydney after the winter

    23 Apr–13 Mei, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    After a long winter of work back in the UK it was time to get back to the boat in Nova Scotia. Rob and I had spent a week back in October winterising and moth balling the boat. Which was a lot tougher than we had anticipated. Many more things to think of that we had. Luckily for us we had a new friend from Sydney, Dwayne Fudge. Who had all the answers for us and even lent us his truck to run around and collect everything we needed. Not often I use this term but Dwayne has been a total Legend. Winterising jobs were, all sails off, all ropes moused, boom off. Remove all canvas spray hood sail bag etc. Drain water tanks, drain water maker, pump plumbing system full of antifreeze (potable) pump water-maker full of different anti freeze. Check antifreeze level in engine cooling system. Check and top up antifreeze in heating system. Pump water out of feathering prop with grease. Pump antifreeze through all bilge and shower drain pumps. Build shelter for cockpit to keep snow out. Cover with tarp and fishing net to stop flapping. Everything to withstand -20c and 70mph winds. Hopefully when we get back it will all have survived. Again we were very lucky to have new friends in Sydney to keep an I on any problems as the long winter ticked by. The out side looked fine when we arrived just as we had left it. Had anything internal frozen or cracked. Dwayne told us the winter had not been

    Rob and I had had an early start n Bude on our journey to Nova Scotia, and again we had the luck of Gretyl dropping us at Heathrow on the way to her sisters. We had to arrive at the airport early as we has guns to check in. (Standard bear protection for northern Labradore) Rob had bought a pump action shotgun a beefy rifle, neither of which were in my knowledge of comfort zone. The idea of walking into Heathrow with a box of rifles and ammunition seems a bit unlikely but that was what were doing. We arrived at check in and explained what we had and where we were going which created a stir. Supervisor was called, Rob had all the paperwork in order and t went as smoothly as could be expected, we were even asked to open the gun box in the middle of the airport to put some paperwork inside. Seemed like a bad plan.
    We were walked to stern customs official for the final tick in the box before we could leave. Tick done. We managed to strike up a conversation with him about airport security in general. And he said the confiscate 20kg of Cocaine every day and he reckoned that would be less than 10 percent of what got through. Any way off for a beer and breakfast.

    Dwayne picked us up from the airport and had made us up beds at his house for the night. Little did we know he was happy to put up with us for more than 20 days. When we woke up Dwayne was at work at the end of his “garden” see photo. He is a specialist Harley mechanic and has a small workshop at down by the sea repairing and servicing Harley Davison’s. When we popped into see him he said keys are in the truck it’s yours for as long as you need it. It became known as robs truck.

    We arrived at the boat, sitting pretty in the car park, next to the travel lift. Looked OK from the outside. Hopefully nothing frozen or cracked on the inside. Day one would be stripping off the custom shelter. And putting the sails back on so we had room to move around in the boat. A good day, sails on ropes re moused, except reefs which we are replacing. Home for tea.

    Day 2 is beginning to start flushing out the anti freeze and start negotiating when is a good time to get lifted back in the water. There are no other sailors getting lifted in this early in the season so Joel , the lift guy from the club is doing us a special favour by servicing and taking the lift out of mothball early. Luckily for us one other Northen yacht club member (also OCC) Jean is thinking of heading off on an Azores trip and is keen to go in early too. Jean has also been keeping and eye on our boat during the winter.

    Birthday week end is here and Dwayne and Betty suggest joining them for a trip to Halifax for the week end, to help celebrate. As always Finglas myself in an Irish bar (dirty Nelly’s)late at night and a sore head in the morning. Not to shabby for a foreign birthday week end.

    Day 5 have organised 2 parcels from home to be delivered and a parcel from Wavinn with survival suits and sundries for cold wether survival. Also the tricky part of getting the life raft serviced was seeming to get trickier. Today was going to be taken up tracking all this down. In the modern world where no big companies answer the phone only online comms it was going to be a very frustrating day.

    Day 6 absolutely no new on any of day 5 chasing. Starting to get worried UPS are genuinely the most useless communicators of any company ever. And have everything of ours to get this trip going. From skis to navigational information. Life raft company have lost the life raft. Wavinn have sent the suits back to spain
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  • St Pauls Island and the 3K Dead

    10–11 Jul 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    St Paul’s island was an off the cuff idea. We were having a rainy day in Dingwall and there’s an Island 18 Miles off shore, what else did we have to do. The guide book offered no guidance, just anecdotes of people who had tried and failed to anchor there . We pottered out on the tide and weaved our way through the lobster pots to the open sea. Good breeze about 20knots and a building swell first time Steve had seen the boat out in some proper conditions, he seemed to like it. 3hours later we were closing the the island, I had picked out a bay on the south east side that looked the most likely to offer some shelter in the forecast conditions. As we rounded out to the north to get shelter behind the island Atlantic bay came into view. Not much wind in there but rock strung and the swell was wrapping round it didn’t look friendly at all. We motored gently north knowing there was another nitch a bit further up, I wasn’t feeling lucky and a trip home to safety was on the cards. The little rocky bay came into view , couple of seals playing, no wind no swell. But small and Rocky. We nosed n for a look. After some faff and indecision we dropped the bow anchor and set it. Then reversed up and set a stern anchor to control the swing amongst the rocks. Im feeling luckier. Time for a cuppa and asses the likelihood of risking a night in this little spot.
    We launched the dinghy and set off south to see if there was any place we could get ashore. Again tricky but a little sport in atlantic bay wher we could scrabble up a cliff towards the wreck of an abandoned refuge. On route we hade to fight our way through deep grass and ferns. Felt like an adventure in proper isolation. After an hour or so nosing round the building and various out buildings we decided to head back to the dinghy by a slightly different route. It wasn’t any easier, hidden fences and trip hazards. This was the kind of little spots I was hoping to find and show Steve a Masher.
    The decision was made we would stay the night in our little secure spot. There weather appeared to be constant. As a mid night exit from this spot would be a game. We sat out and watched the seals and birds around the boat until the spitfire sized mosquitos arrived and we had to lock ourselves inside again. We carried a few mossies in as we went but splattered them on the ceiling when they stopped for a rest. We had a secure night and woke up feeling that we had achieved something not many others had. A slow foggy sail back to Dingwall was on waiting.

    The following day in Dingwall we saw there was a museum for St Paul’s Island. Strange we thought and popped in to see the locals who ran it. W were in for a surprise.
    After a wander round the basics some photos of the island many years ago, a small light house tat had been moved to shore and some bits and bobs from the light house keeper from 100 years ago, we struck up a conversation with the ladies and told them we had been there the day before. They were a bit surprised and told us that we were not allowed on the island OOps!! We confessed and they were very interested in very things condition. Very friendly. They then began to tell us the story off the island. In essence ever since the people had used the sea in this area boats and ships would bump into the island in the fog and strong currents(before modern navigation aids.). Over the years more and more people ended up shopped wrecked on the island sometimes hundreds at a time. The problem was with thick fog and the on set of winter there was often no way to recover these people. The sea would freeze strung with icebergs and any way of getting to the island was impossible until spring. People from the main land would often see fires burning on the island after a wreckbut as time went on these fires would begin to cease as the people slowly died of starvation. Eventually a refuge was built on the island to give ant ship wrecked people a better chance of survival. It is now in ruins and was the building we scrabbled about in . There are 3000 graves on this small island about the size of Lundy and most of the people were buried under the ferns we fought our way through.

    As it turned out a very interest 48 hours and learned a lot about what life was like in these remote and cold frontier places.
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  • Wycocomagh Big Trout drop off

    4–9 Jul 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Time is up for Claire, and we decide on Wycocomagh as the drop off spot. It is close to a bus stop back to Halifax. We meander south from Baddeck anchoring for an hour in Washabuck river. Another fantastically isolated breakfast spot with sea eagles loons and big fish. We move on after bacon butties and before the Mosquitos find us. A gent motor sail towards the Narrows cable ferry and the last lake south. A quick chat with the cable ferry skipper on the radio and he says we are clear to pass as he drops the cable. We manage to sail gently down the lake and decide to have 1 last night in the wilderness before heading to the town. We tuck in behind a headland and sail up to the head of the bay. We are in west cove behind Maciniss head. Very beautiful very shallow and just isolated enough. We go ashore but not too many places to go as always we watch some interesting birds and eagle pass, While fishing quietly behind sheep island an otter comes out and navigates his terrain looking for a last meal of the day.
    Tommorow the big smoke of Wycocomagh.
    Early start and and 5 K motor to the shallow bay of the Skye river, we put the anchour down in thick mud and know it has set well. We are keel up in 2 metres of water and very secure. Time to find a spot to land the dinghy and find out where Claire’s bus leaves from. So there’s no faff in the morning.
    While ashore we walk up the Skye river through the First Nation reserve and into the wilderness part of the river a mile or so up the river we spot some flatted grass and what might be a beaver lodge. No sign of a beaver. We walk on on a river which feels natural and wide I spot some very large brown trout under log and 2 more in an eddy. Tommorow when Claire has gone I will come back and fish for the day.
    Claire and I walk down the river wading and pushing through bushes where needed. We are quiet when we get to the pool near the flatted grass we see our first beaver prowling it territory. We snug down and wait hoping not to be spotted. Eventually we see 4 beaver prowling about the pool and even see one drag itself up the bank to grab some undergrowth to take back and eat. Over the next 3 days fate Claire left I fished and watched beaver every day. The Beaver became confident with me sitting still and on the 3rd day they were happy to walk right past me. The trout were huge and plentiful.

    Claire and I had had a great rip up from Halifax. Shame it had to end.
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  • Bird Island surprise cove and Ingonish

    26–30 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our intention was to head out of the lakes and head north up cape Breton, With the ever present hope of seeing whales. This trip will include. A trip through the Narrows where all of the water escaped from Bra Dor lakes. It often has currents around 6 knots and will produce a pretty impressive standing wave with wind against tide. Our plan is to leave Baddeck and head up the channel in 2 hops First to surprise cove. and then to Ingonish via a fly by of Bird island.

    Surprise cove was going to be a challenge. It is a flooded gypsum quarry just off the channel. The entrance to the quarry is very shallow and very narrow and there is no easy way to turn round once you are in there . Im not sure how wise it is to take on this challenge but, we have an adaptable boat and a pretty strong will to find out of the way places. The guide books give some basic instructions that were written 10 years ago, Im. Pretty sure the channel was more silted now. We set the keel to swing mode, which means it will swing up if we clip the bottom. We needed every bit of lift to get in. We turn of the main channel into Big harbour.(not that big) from this small bay runs a a small c Handel to the quarry. The entrance to the channel goes down to less that 3ft depth and now we about to enter the near row part. This long channel is about 8 or 9 metres wide with overhanging trees it is mostly about 4 to 6 ft deep with all kinds of trees and branches in the water. Claire is on the front of the boat spotting hazards as we sneak through. The mast pushes through the last branch and we are in the quarry is deep on the left and a muddy shallow flat to the left. We manage to drop anchour in the deepest part and control our swing by putting lines around trees with us of the dinghy. We are in and it beautifully isolated. Time to explore before the Mosquitos get hungry. This turned out to be a great spot for watching wildlife, all alone and quiet.
    We saw cruising otters swimming deer and all sorts of bird life even caught a striped bass. Time to go inside the mosquitos have founded us.

    Next stop a tidal swoosh under the bridge and out to sea. 20 miles to ingonish with a Bit of a left curve so we pass by bird islands(AKA Hertford and Ciboux island) we go under the bridge at quite a rate dodging lobster pots best we can. Beautiful blue morning with the odd sea eagle to punctuate the sky. Bird island was nice with Guillemot’s razor bills and Puffins but nothing like as good as the UK. Skoma island and the Chiant island have spoilt us. On ward to ward the lump of rock in the distance call big smokey. Famed for whale and dolphin watching . A nice 20 not downwind breeze was taking us there fast. We carried fully sail to the Big Smoky for ur left turn towards the harbour. Bit of a mistake. 40 knot winds falling of the hill and a slalom cause of lobster pots to negotiate. It took us 5 mins to reduce sail and get full control back. The entrance is Bouyed but marked as a hazard on the chart. Bit weird. When we get to the final part of the channel we find out why . We are doing five knot which no sail or engine help. The channel is 3 boat widths wide and at the last minute I see birds standing up in the water next to the Starboard marker. The channnel turns out to be further left and the buys are in the wrong place. Luckily we had enough time to stay left enough. Once in the wind is still howling and we have to look for shelter to anchour and we start a creep along the southern shoreline
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  • Baddeck, Wagmatcook First Nation

    24–25 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Baddeck is the capital of Bra Dor lakes it is also the home of of Alexandra Graham Bell. It would have been a tiny isolated back water with a very short summer back in the day. It is astonishing that anyone found out about his numerous invention. His house still stands and is owned by his Family on the headland opposite Baddeck. There is also a very large museum/exhibition of his life’s work in Baddeck outskirts. Very worth a visit if you passing.
    The rest of Baddeck is a pretty holiday town on the entrance to the Cabot trail it still has a mostly traditional buildings and shaw a relaxed feel.it has many restaurants and all the facility you would need to keep your yacht running. (Baddeck Marine).

    This is ultimately where I will leave the yacht for Rob and Grets to pick up later in the year.
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  • St peters canal and bra dor Lakes

    19–20 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Not too much of a lay in today, a fair few miles to do to get across to Cape Breton and the Bra D’or lakes, first we have to navigate the exit through the narrow entrance of the cove down wind through the lobster pots and miles of rope through the next narrow and more pots and head out. Luckily no fog today so we can see the pots and ropes clearly. Once out all the sails up and a fair down wind sail all the way solid 20kt breeze just what the old girl likes. (Morvenna that is). A few gybes and a few fishing boat encounters later we are heading into the Narrowing entrance to St Peter’s lock, our gateway to the inland water of Bra Dor. The lakes are in fact the sea although a bit brackish so the fish within them are quite varied from sea fish to fresh water. After having been through the Crinan and the Caledonian Canal systems this trip the lock in was a bit underwhelming although super nice lock keeper as always, Again we are the only boat. And the 148 foot lock does not noticeably move up or down. Before the other gate is opened and we are ready to move on. ( about 600mm on the day) they ask us to wait while they get in the gator and go 400yds down the canal and open the swing road bridge, 600 metres later we are in the lake and puttering north looking for somewhere to anchor for the night. We see our first boat in a week and we stare at it as if he must be lost. This means we are now in Nova Scotia sailing hot spot. After a bit of wiggling through some channels we pick out a likely spot on the chart secluded and very lake like after our week out in the very exposed east coast. Our an hour buries itself safely in the mud and we look at google earth to see if there is any walking opportunities. There is a natural harbour in the inlet and we dinghy ashore to search out a long circular walk around the headland which will include paddling and scrambling. 2 hour later back at the dinghy ready to head back to the boat for tea. on our walk we saw. Sea eagle, Otter, sandpipers, yellow legs. And many others.
    While sitting with a beer another otter and another sea eagle. Filled by crying coyotes and loons to go fall asleep to. All in all another good day.
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  • Seal Cove

    19–20 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This is our last anchorage before we enter Bra dor Lakes and enormous inland sea on the next big Canadian Island. We thought we would go super isolated and the guid book suggested this one would fit that bill. If not a bit sketchy to get. In to. A 30 mile sail in good vis 20 plus knots down wind so progress was quick. But that did mean the turn into the nook was going to be 20 plus knots upwind in a tight rocky channel. Which as it turned out had another million lobster pots all over the entrance. As we approached and curved upwind we reduced sail and started weaving through the gauntlet of ropes in the shallows. Putting the engine on was a risk of fowling the prop so we sailed in as far as we could. In between rocks and ropes and strange shallow areas. Sails down and motor the last 400 metres barely making progress against the 25kt breeze. It all goes very quiet as we get under the trees in the entrance to this beutiful cove. No one has been here in a very longtime. We anchor in 3.5 metres and have a cup of tea and pecan pie now the tricky bit is done. Of for an explore after that. More eagles, ospreys, seals etc.
    Very very isolated and very well protected in here . Feeling snug
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  • Port Bickerton

    18–19 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Leaving St Marys River late on the tide meant we had only a few hours before dark and Port Bickerton looked like the most handy hide hole. And a great opportunity to add to my light house photo collection😃. Fog all the way 10 million lobster pots and surprising shallow banks on the entrance to keep us on our toes. The evening stroll before tea and bed was 3km each way to the light house. Where we saw noisy frogs and more of those feeling common Ospreys. We still haven’t seen a pleasure boat in more than 5 days. Even the guide book descriptions are 20 years out of date. My kind of placeBaca selengkapnya

  • Sherbrooke Village

    16–18 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    For no apperent reason were in Sherbrooke. We saw it on the chart, it had appeared to be a good safe anchorage and secondly there was a town for food and re stocking and there was a tourist attraction of a historic village. Nice trip up the river. When we woke in the morning it was quite early for a Sunday and we dinghies ashore and walked in towards town, to do so we had to walk through the historic village. Wow this is a fully functioning frontier town with residents in period costume. When we were there, there were no visitors, so it felt very wierd. I’m guessing the site is about 10 to 15 acres of restored shops and house. And everything works from the waterwheel saw mill to the chair makers and onto glass photographer, Potter and all the things made keep the place running. Totally amazing. Our little foray ashore turns into a full day visit without a dull moment. I thought Clovelly was the most authentic place but this is right there too.
    We have missed the tide to leave and go on a trip up the river in the dinghy.
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  • St Marys River

    16 Juni 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I thought st Mary River deserved a mention its own right. It was 8 miles of river that we needed to be negotiate on the way to Sherborne, which was our planned destination for the night. It is one of Nova Scotia longest navigable rivers, it has a frontier and industrial history. I am sure its qualities are ignored by the local in habitants. It reminds me of the river Tamar that is right on my doorstep. I had no idea how pretty the Tamar was and how full of wildlife it was until I canoed it. The first time I canoed the Tamar I saw Kingfishers, Otters and salmon Dippers and was amazed by the varied and remote country side it led us through. The St Marys river gave the the same surprise and pleasure. As we approached the mouth from the sea it was dense, dense fog. We bouy hopped our way into the river. A local small pot boat followed us in from the murk and as he overtook us they had a squadron of birds in tow. The first clue to the diversity of the river was in the squadron were 3 Ospreys, ducking and clawing for the scraps. By the time we had done 1 mile of the 8 any sign of the fishing community had gone and we were into pristine river. About 1/3 of a mile wide. Not that deep. The for was left at see and the we had blue sky. The bank was mostly dense impenetrable forest with the odd meadow area. Our path through the deep water made us meander from bank to bank as the river narrowed some parts of the river went to less than 2 metres deep.. Bald eagles, Osprey, Merlin all types of waders and Loons even the hint of an otter (not confirmed) really nice few hours. Next job find a spot to and how in the river near Sherborne which had now narrowed and shallowed quite a bit.Baca selengkapnya

  • Gregogan Harbour

    15–16 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was forecast sunny all day, with friendly winds. We thought we take on some tricky nav through the islands and channels. 30 nmiles of rock hopping and Pot dodging. But what a view. Nobody here, every island and piece of land empty and protected. One fisherman came over for a chat and wonder why and how we got here and gave us some Lobster for getting here and managing to dodge all the pots. Really Friday again.
    Burnt my head and my nose, on the way to the most beautiful wild and empty beach. Anchoring was in a notch just out of the wind in among the rocks. We had to put out a kedge an hour to control our swing as the wind was due to drop. And current pick up.
    Dinghy out and we are off site seeing, not disappointed. We have taken to using Merlin App for bird identification. It doesn’t need the internet. It’s like Shazam for birds but better. As soon as we landed we switched it on and it helped us identify and ultimately spot the birds.
    Banded kingfisher first
    Yellow leg
    Loon
    And many many others
    The area is wild and un touched.
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  • Turners Island Lunch stop

    14 Juni 2024, Kanada ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Total sun all day with 15 to kts wind could be better. Haven’t seen a boat for 3 days then a fishing boat comes over for a chat and gives us a couple of Lobsters as a welcome to Nova Scotia gift.

  • Horse head Cove

    14–15 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We were a bit more ambitious with this trip, it was only forecast 50% fog today. So we went through a few narrow channels although when the fog came and you were in them it, was intimidating. This harbour is naturally formed and the entrance is only 2.5M deep. The guide book describes it as somewhere you could ride out any storm. After a slow a deliberate feel of our way in, edging left and right to find the deep water. The truth is it is like anchoring in a pond. Perfect for a good nights sleep. As always it’s time for a walk and as we are leaving the cabin we spot an osprey entering his/Her next right above us. We went ashore and walked down the highway (not so Wilderness) and then followed a dirt track for a mile or so. As always the locals were chatty and keen to be helpful.
    When we returned we followed an American black duck and 4 chicks settle down for the night hopefully out of sight of the Black backs (they weren’t) 2 otters were also chased off by the Black backs)
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  • Sandy Cove, Cable Island

    10–11 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    We slept the night on the fuel dock at Armadale yacht club and the plan was to be up and at em by 6 am. We were, but the fog was really thick, and intimidating, best have a coffee and a think. The fog appears to lift and vis is up to 100 meters, we decide to give it a go. Radar on active echo radar reflector on AIS on chart plotters fully charged and ready. Cast off in zero wind and manage to tie the ropes on and stow the fenders asa we drift away from the dock. We are 200 metres into the journey and the fog returns, and it really thick. 3.5kts through the moored boats and buoys, Complete silence apart from the reliable dock of our engine. Claire doesn’t get to see the fancy houses or anything for that mater. Just concentrate on getting across the main shipping channel and to relative safety of the east of the harbour. I contact harbour control and ask for permission to proceed, Granted. There is a very loud fog horn boat envy 20 secs this is the light house within the harbour. Quite eery. Our intended trip is about 40 miles, but it looks like it will be in zero visibility inn amongst many Lobster pots. I think our concentration will be shot by the time we arrive. Cold, foggy, damp, those are all the adjectives I didn’t use to tempt Claire on this holiday destination. Luckily all of her Cornish sailing clothing still on the boat to make her feel at home.
    We chose all the safest options as far as Navigation was concerned and stayed clear of tricky pilotage. It amazing how used to sailing on just instruments you get.
    This stretch is about getting us to the beginning of the 100 islands reserve and we are praying we can see them when we get there. After * hours of concentration and no let up in the fog what so ever we head towards land and hope the land shows its elf to us. Like a miracle as
    get within half a mile the fog lifts and the beauty of this place shows itself. We are finally at the beginning of the wilderness. There is not a boat within 20 miles probably 40 miles. what a first spot for anchoring. We see a dolphin and an osprey as we arrive things are looking up.
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  • Halifax

    9–11 Jun 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Rob Managed to book a flight for a few hours after arriving. That is normal Rob airplane brinksmanship. Customs were being super thorough and were very suspicious of our adventure, thought we might be dodgy undesirables in our first phone call to them, They sent some very efficient customs officers to check us out. Time was ticking on Robs flight. And Claire was sitting on her bag next to the boat as she wasn’t allowed on yet. Luckily these guys were our age super experienced and realised we were just some old buffers on an adventure. By the time they left we had list of good destinations to visit and advice on winterising the boat. Uber is called and in a flash Rob was gone. The up side Mrs D has arrived haven’t seen her for a month. I was expecting to meet her in Santa Marta in Columbia in 40C. But here we are in Nova Scotia in 15C. hope she brought my socks.
    From what I have seen of Halifax so far, the NW Arm, its like The Hampton in the US massive super houses and private docks for there boats . It’s been a long trip I need to eat, Laundry and sleep. Tomorrow we will explore.
    Claire had a better plan. She still had 1 night left at her air B and B. Do the laundry there, sleep in a proper bed and eat out at a nice restaurant. It’s good to have some brains in the family.
    First of the jobs days, Better start with a leisurely Latte and Croissant.
    Jobs
    Take of wind pilot
    Inflate dinghy and launch and put on engine
    Repair The Main sail got a 75mm nick during a reef
    Clean out all the food cupboards
    Stock up for the next month of semi wilderness sailing. 2 trips to supermarket on the bus.
    Engine and rigging checks.
    Fill up with fuel and water

    The people here are so friendly, they all make eye contact and say hi as you walk past, just like Cornwall. Easy to get things done and find out what you need to know. Halifax pretty big, Bigger than Plymouth I recon. It has a very American influence on the shops etc but has retained a soft interactive feel, everyone calm, chatty and really helpful, easy travelling. It been sunny the whole time we have been here. But that Isn’t the forecast for the next few days. And as we wake on the day we are leaving its a Pea Souper almost cant see the end of the boat.
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  • Bemuda & passage to Halifax Nova Scotia

    2–9 Jun 2024, Bermuda ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The pressure is on, Mrs D is on a flight to Halifax landing in the 5th and the weather systems wont play ball. It’s 780 nm as the crow flies but it looks like we will have to Zig and zag to keep the boat going north. To add to that there is a hint of a big system moving up the American coast on day 4 of the 5/6 day trip. Which will run us over and possibly push us past Halifax. Decisions decisions.
    We have had a good time in Bermuda. It small with 64000 in habitants. It has what appears to be a 2 tier society ex pats find it difficult to own property or businesses. And are unlikely to afford to retire there due to the very high cost of living and medical insurance. However the climate it perfect with never really cold occasionally too hot. Very green and lush with a solid infrastructure. It is how I imagined the Caribean to be. But it wasn’t.
    On day one in Bermuda we did customs and immigration. In St George’s They have their own quaint wooden quay to pull up at. Super polite super helpful. Easiest yet. We then anchored up got the bikes out and cycled up the hill to go round the headland and see the entrance we came through in the dark the night before. On the way up the hill new were called over to help one of the locals take a group photo. After having some banter. The chap told us he was the Minister for Transport and the longest standing member of parliament. And gave us his number. For up dates on our trip.

    As We had drawn close to Bermuda My phone had come to life and the Facebook algorithm suggested a friend, from school days who lived in Bermuda. I couldn’t resist I hadn’t seen him since I left school at 16 , so contacted Grant and planned to go out for a beer. Really was a positive thing and good to see him doing well and running a bike shop locally. Would have been rude not to make the effort in such a far from everywhere place.
    Next stop was the Pub £10 per pint if you’re lucky. We met Dre and Steve who were delivering a 58ft boat to the Med. Dre is from Canada and is an a pretty extreme skier who run a helicopter ski lodge in the Rockies and Steve and Old school Pro skipper with tons of experience. We had tons in common and the the 10 quid drinks seem to fly by. Thoroughly good company and hope to catch up again.

    Set off on Sunday pm after doing all the boat prep work. Engine checks, fill up with fuel and water. Stock up with food. Download charts, and weather. Check all the shackles and line sand rigging again. 3pm we are off. Sails up anchorage up and we manage to sail off the anchor through the crowded anchorage alway makes me smile. Through the town cut and into the open ocean again.
    I knew the wind would be in the wrong direction for a while, so as normal we start by beating up wind until it comes right. For the next few days we will be making many re adjustments to the plan depending on the ever changing weather forecast. Day 3 turns out to be motor sailing all day in very light wind but we are hoping for day for blow in the right direction.
    We manage to sail due north, the right direction for the next few days mostly at a healthy 6 to 7 kts. But we know that is coming to an end. Some not so fun motor sailing in slightly the wrong directions is coming or way, and true enough 23 hours of working our way through a high pressure(no wind area) and trying to avoid the northerly winds on the right hand side of it. Then we sail slowly for a couple of days mostly in the right direction with the knowledge that a decent blow is coming. We are not sure how it that blow will be so we prep the boat as if it might be big. Check the reefing line all the way to nothing. Prep some line to hang out the back if the surfing starts to get out of control. Run the running back stays to there most rear position where they offer the mast the most protection. Get some straps out to be ready to tie down anything that gets loose.
    When the blow comes it builds steadily from almost nothing over 3 hours mostly between 30 and 40 kts for 12 hours overnight. It rain 1 inch per hour during this period and Rob and I get totally soaked. We are reefed down to minimum on the main and we leave out the fall inner staysail. Diedre our wind pilot love s this balance and is very content to steer us happily through the storm. We go inside, dry off, make dinner. And get warm. The boat handle beautifully almost with out any further help from us. We keep watch via the Radar and AIS Chart plotter with the odd peer out. The wave are big and dangerous out side we are 300 miles offshore, but Morvenna gives a feeling of a very safe Cacoon. By lunch time the following day the wind has gone, Completely, and left a nasty large swell behind for us to wallow in. What could be worse. Oh yeah Pea soup fog. For the next 36 hours. Engine on and a close eye on the Radar ETC. luckily Rob finds my joke and stories very entertaining.
    Finally we are into the last 24 hours of the trip fog has cleared wind has gone to a friendly SW15kts looks like we will get to Halifax in the Sun, with a fair wind behind us. Only the Traffic separation scheme and Canadian Customs to negotiate.
    The radio crackles to life as the first broadcasts of the harbour are heard. Friendly Canadian tones. We manage to sail through the Sunday morning racers and nearly the full length of the NW arm. To Armadale YC, which will be our home for the next few days as we sort the boat for the next faze.
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  • Quaudaloope to Bermuda

    19–26 Mei 2024, Caribbean Sea ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    It’s Sunday. And after some Sunday morning chores of tying down dinghy checking the rigging and making sure everything is stowed safely. One final check of the Forcast, It’s time to commit to the plan. 1000 miles due north of open water. I layed in a coarse to get out through the reef and out in to open water. It was 53 NM. I was about to find out why this places name was cul de sac de Marin. Sails up, anchor up, a gentle gill forward to pass close the motor boat of some Canadians we had spent the morning chatting with. We bare off and head for the exit to the lagoon. The wind angle looks promising as we head for the channel through the reef mindful that the wind could change at any moment. We are lucky we get through on one tack and are pointing exactly where we want to go, but not for long. 1 more mile and the wind shifts straight on the nose. 53 miles is about to become 70. Miles it looks like we will be eating tea and beating up wind in the dark lucky it’s nice and warm, even the sea birds up here are more friendly. After 70 miles we are past all the little island and the routine of a weeks sailing ahead of us is back . Trying not to tell rob the same old stories. But it’s un avoidable. Luckily he either polite or a gold fish. (Update to follow)
    We are heading pretty much due north and we are expecting 7 days at sea. There are no hurricanes or tropical storms forecast for the next 7 days. I have a paper chart for this trip and start to plot our position once a day, at mid day. Its us paying homage to doing a noon site with the sextant. I noticed we are passing over the Nares Abyssal Basin,
    Sounds a bit daunting. I look carefully at the chart and see we are passing over big valleys and giant mountains. To put this into perspective the tips of the mountains are kilometres beneath our boat and the depth of the valleys isn’t even marked. I pondered how long it would take for a stone to reach the bottom and how dark it would be when it got there. A whole other planet we don’t even know, just beneath us. Wild life spars but rob catches a dorado for tea.
    We were hoping to stay in a northerly air stream without deviating from our coarse to far, but that wasn’t to be. The low pressure system that was quite weak deepened and moved East and we had no choice but to follow it east and 100 miles too far east the upside is when it past we had pleasant winds to motor sail the last of 7 days towards St George’s and Bermuda. With 50 miles to go it went dark the clouds filled in and we had torrential rain and lightning to see us in. It a narrow channel and the advice is to do it in the daytime first time. GPS and Radar have made us a little too confident. But we entered anyway 6 Lit Bouys 6 unlit bouys. And plenty of other bits and pieces to hit if we don’t concentrate. Job done Anchor down in Powder hole quick tidy and off to bed for a well earned lie in.
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