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Americas Great Loop
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Americas Great Loop

The Great Loop from Florida follows the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, the Hudson River, the New York Canals, the Great Lakes, then south on the Inland Rivers to the Gulf Coast and back to FL to complete the Loop. Read more
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    🇺🇸 Islamorada, United States
    45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    The road to the Alligator Farm. Market gardens and sugar cane where the Everglades used to be.
    Gators, ready for the 'feeding show'. I would be too, if I was them.1Juveniles, coming along nicely...1Airboats ready for usPut your purses and bags in one box and take your earmuffs from another. And get ready to get wet!1Sorry about the fence...When he lifted his chin, that jaw snapped shut with enough power to cut a house in half...Rosie wanted to give him a kiss, but his jaws were taped shut. Might have been just as well.1Meet the world's biggest rodent... capybara1Red-and-green macaw (Ara chloropterus), also known as the green-winged macawPorky-pine... but which is the ass and which is the elbow?Fennec fox (Vulpes zerda), which is the smallest species of canid (dog family)What on EARTH could you do with a 5-inch tongue? I get enough gravy on my shirt as it is...1The kinkajo had gone into a deep hole in a tree, so I borrowed this from the interweb...1This is what the farm is all about1Think of your large, old tabby... then triple it. That's one of these little critters...Miami airport from our hotel bar (Holiday Inn)1Green iguana, a large, tree-dwelling lizard native to Mexico, Central and Sth Americajust anutha conda (trying to get out of the tank to meet me)

    Days 50/51: Leaving the Florida Keys

    Nov 25–26 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    We used up a day packing, cleaning up the dodgy old apartment we'd had the use of for free, and helping Rosie with some computer and phone issues. Then the next day, I cooked bacon and eggs (to use them up), we finalised packing, turned everything off, and headed back out onto US-1 for the run up to Key Largo, off the Keys, and up to Florida City to the Everglades Alligator Farm. Rosie had found a brochure that described a bit of a zoo and airboat rides. We were there within 2 hrs, watched some gator feeding, then set off on our scheduled airboat ride (25 min, which I thought was a bit short), followed by a gator show and a walk around the gator farm.

    After that, we set off for Miami and I bought us in via Old Cutler Rd, which provided a great look at some very nice homes in some very tree-lined streets. We proceeded around the city on I-95 and then out to South Beach so I could show Rosie the art-deco district and the hotels along Ocean Drive. Then it was a 30-min drive in traffic, back across the city to our hotel for the night near the airport. Tomorrow, I'll drop Rosie there--she goes on to Washington DC, NYC, Las Vegas, and SanFran--and head back to South Beach to check into my hotel for 5 nights before my own departure back to Australia.

    Graeme and Lorraine and I have already 'done' Miami, so there's nothing for me to rush out and look at, apart from the beach if the weather's good. So I'm just going to swan around the hotel. And an 8-month adventure will be at an end.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1The famed '7-mile Bridge'. Old rail bridge (later highway bridge) on the right. New hwy at left.
    1A somewhat cobbled-together viewShot by Rosie as we cross the 7-Mile highway bridge northbound with Knight's Key in the distanceA railroad bridge in its early construction phase1A portion of the old railroad bridge with the early Overseas Hwy later built on top1"Fred the Tree" on the 7-Mile Railroad Bridge11The red line is Henry Flagler's Key West extension of his Florida East Coast railroad - now the hwyOne of Henry Flagler's passenger ferries for the 100-mile voyage between Key West and Havana1The Conch Train tour on Key West. Recommended!A Rosie photo outside the Hemingway house1The famous wall around Ernest Hemingway's houseHemingway's house. Rosie went in... and met all the cats... 100s of them!This giant mahogany tree is over 100 yrs old1You could take US-1 to Maine or you could take I-95 (which would be quicker)A lot of conch shells in a giant clam shell11Those of us who recall PanAm, recall their aviation callsign... CLIPPERThe girl was never going to leave, so I just took the shot

    Day 49: Drive to Key West

    November 21 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Having read the book "Last Train to Paradise", and been utterly fascinated by the the building of the extension of the Florida East Coast Railroad to Key West, and after 3 visits to Florida to stay with Milt Deno and never having gone, I've always hankered after seeing the Florida Keys.

    "Proceed to Key West", said a distraught Henry Flagler when his engineers asked him what to do after a destructive hurricane. So today, we're taking the 1½-hr drive down to the 'end of the line', although we'll probably take longer than that to get there. Rosie has made chicken sandwiches for an en-route lunch, although there are about 100 cafes, bars and such on the way. But the sandwiches are delicious, we've saved money, and our inheritance beneficiaries will benefit. So, win-win.

    I've made no plans re accommodation... it's too hard to make last-minute plans, and the prices--even for Key West at this 'slightly shoulder' time of the year--are excessive. So I decide to play it by ear and as we swing off the Spanish Harbor Channel Bridge onto Big Pine Key, I pull into a non-descript, paint-flaking Key West Visitor Centre (there are several on and around Key West).

    We go in and find British/American 'Penny' (from Yorkshire) behind the counter. With an iPod in one ear, she swings into action and finding her is the best thing we could have done. She knows all the non-corporate accommodation houses and managers and soon finds us a two-bedroom apartment with kitchen, landscaped pool outside the door, in the Old Town, one block from Duvall St, and right at the southern end close to the 'Southern-most Point' in the USA. USD250/person/night for two nights. We're happy.

    We unpack and head up Duvall St on our toes. It's 13 blocks and 1.08 miles... just enough to get our legs back in action. We're headed for the Conch Train [say 'conk', not contch] to have a prior look at the town. Penny said "Take the Conch Train, not the hop-on/hop-off trolley, the route and commentary is much better." Who were we to argue... and again, we're happy except that the driver went too fast for us to get good photos, so we determined to take the car out tomorrow and tour around for that.

    Back to the Santa Maria Suites in time for the end of Happy Hour, then a shower and walk a couple of blocks to a restaurant for dinner, and it's Goodnight Irene.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    The sealion display tank
    Sealion doing tricks for treats...1Here was the Starlink mission that night

    Day 48: At Islamorada

    November 20 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Took Rosie to see if there were some Manatee hanging around a particular marina (nope) so continued on to Theatre of the Sea. Not bad, but seemed a bit like a 'poor man's' SeaWorld (Queensland Gold Coast). This attraction was built in an old quarry from which the builders of the Flagler railroad to Key West extracted rock. In a landscaped area, they've created a series of interconnected ponds into which--at one end-- they pump 2,000 gal of seawater each day. This filters through the ponds over a period of 6 days and returns to the ocean through the ground.

    Cooked on the BBQ again, with a salad. Walked out along the 387-ft length of the apartment complex jetty to watch the nightime launch of the SpaceX Falcon 9 rocket sending 29 Starlink satellites to low-Earth orbit from Launch Complex 39A at NASA's Kennedy Space Center. Well, we couldn't see the actual lift-off from down in the Keys, but from our jetty, we saw the fiery exhaust of the ascending rocket, albeit faintly, until it went through a cloud layer and, keeping track courtesy of the live commentary on our phones, we were also able to discern the faint glow of the booster, once separated, completing its arc through the night sky and falling out of sight in the far distance to seaward. Following stage separation, the first stage landed on a droneship, stationed out in the Atlantic Ocean beyond the Bahamas, and the livestream included live vision of the booster rocket landing back on the droneship. This was the 23rd flight for this particular first stage booster.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    Fat, lazy tarpon get handfed at Robbies while pelicans await their chance
    A beer and a strawberry daiquiri at Robbies tiki bar1A fat, lazy iguana waits for someone (not me!) to throw a french fry1I think I'd be able to get this going... some UHU glue and No. 8 wireTwo fat, lazy iguanas catch some nourishing raysEntrance to Robbies carpark area

    Day 47: At Islamorada on Plantation Key

    November 19 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We're worn out after yesterday (at least, I am). A landscaping crew arrive at 0900 and commence to trim all the palm trees with a chain saw... splattered coconuts all over the car park etc. Rosie rescues a couple, but they're too green and tasteless. We drive to the local Visitor Centre and get some local info. Then its down the highway to Robbies to see the tarpon being hand-fed. Not exciting, but we stay for a drink and some conch chowder. That was worth it! Back at the apartment, we had a swim in the pool, I cranked up the sauna (dry... can't throw water on the rocks... not good) and had another dip in the pool. I cooked steak on the communal BBQ and Rosie threw some veges together.Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    Farewell "Flemingtown" (Burr Yacht Sales Marina)
    1The Florida East Coast Railroad swingbridgeApproaching the SW Martin Downs Blvd Bridge, carrying State Road 714. Only a few more bridges to go!We pass anther Fleming heading upstream for the Burr marinaThere are 3 bridges here; NW Dixie Hwy drawbridge, FEC Railroad swingbridge, US-1 Federal Highway1One last one for Graeme. Seen on the St Lucie River.1You can never have too many bridges, but this is the last! The Evans Crary, with 3½ miles to run!1Turning sharp right at The Crossroads and thus crossing my wakeAnother sharp right turn into the Loblolly Marina at Hobe SoundPart of the Kreitler Condominium Complex at Loblolly MarinaWe're docked, and Preston makes Leland Louise wait so that Nina gets the first hug. What a man!

    Day 46: Stuart to the Florida Keys

    November 18 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This is it! The last day of my Loop adventure. We cast off at the Burr Yacht Sales marina at 0815 on another bright and calm morning, and head down the St. Lucie River for the final 8½ miles to its confluence with the Indian River/Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. At this point, I'll have achieved the whole point of the Great Loop exercise... to cross my wake.

    This happens at 1030 at the famous 'crossroads', and we turn right to head the last 5 miles of my boating journey, down the Great Pocket to Peck Lake (part of Hobe Sound on the Indian River), and into the Loblolly Marina, whence we departed on 14 April. The marina staff tie us up and we're done.

    I've completed America's Great Loop... 5,374 miles; 3,009 miles from Hobe Sound, Florida to Traverse City, Michigan via the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, the Hudson River, the Erie Canal, and the Great Lakes (negotiating 39 Locks and taking 48 days, including a forced 2-week delay on the Hudson River), then 2,365 miles from Traverse City back to Hobe Sound via the western rivers and the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (negotiating 30 Locks and taking 37 days). So, I'm a Looper and my sister Jan and brother Graeme and his wife Lorraine from NZ, and Rosie Inglis from Benalla, Victoria, are Half-Loopers. And thus, I'm twice as loopy as thry are!

    Nina and Leland Louise look after the boat while Preston runs Rosie and I across to the Enterprise Car Rental agency. We have a 4½-hr drive down I-95 and US-1 to Islamorada on Plantation Key. We have 7 days to investigate the Florida Keys. Rosie will fly out from Miami on the rest of her U.S. holiday on 26 November and I'll do likewise on 1 Dec, for Dallas, and on to Melbourne.

    Rosie has an old Japanese friend who--many decades ago--was sent to Florida by his employer to learn about the 'space race'. The story goes that he befriended an astronaut who owned an apartment down on Plantation Key. The Japanese chap went to stay there, liked it, and purchased it from said astronaut. Mr Japanese then returned intermittently to vacation, but has not been back for 2 years, and we get the key from a neighbour per prior arrangement. You might be able to imagine what greeted us when we opened the door, despite a very reasonable job of dusting and vacuuming done by the good neighbour.

    So, the place may be pure 1971 inside, and stuffed full of household items as if he'd just moved house from Japan to here, but the kitchen works and so does one of the toilets, there are beds to sleep on and a dining table and couches in the lounge, the a/c, lighting, and hot water works too, after I flip the various circuit breakers, and there's still a bit of room in the fridge for our stuff. Importantly, there's a pool and an excellent outdoor cooking area with two gas BBQs and a large community/games room. So it'll do... it'll HAVE to do. Although it's free, I'd have preferred a hotel with every luxury, but here we are.

    I just want to see the engineering that's gone into connecting these keys together, including Henry Flagler's "overseas" railroad. Rosie want's to see the wildlife, particularly the Manatee (sea cow).

    The Overseas Railroad (also known as Florida Overseas Railroad, the Overseas Extension, and Flagler's Folly) was an extension of the Florida East Coast Railway down to Key West, a city located 128 miles (206 km) beyond the end of the Florida peninsula. Work on the line started in 1905 and it operated from 1912 to 1935, when it was partially destroyed by the Labor Day Hurricane. Some of the remaining infrastructure was used for the Overseas Highway on which we'll travel.

    And thus endeth the big day...    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    Heading out from Clewiston through a shallow channel, with the lake up ahead1Out onto the lake. We'll see mostly 10-13 ft of water across the lake.A ragtag of shags. Probably all ratbags and scallywags..."Voyager" follows us across the lake1"Let the canefields burn", sang Graeme Connors in his song, written in 20001The snakes and rats'll be running for their lives... into the adjacent canefield.We arrive at the Port Mayaca LockThe Port Mayaca Lock is wide open for us to go straight throughThe short-line South Central Florida Express railroad crosses hereBoats, whose owners are not planning to use them for a while, are wrappedLarge motor yachts are undergoing maintenance and/or repairThe railroad swingbridge at Indiantown is ahead; the US-710 bridge is beyondWas this a tug hospital or a tug graveyard? I wasn't sure...1I got suckered by the most simple of jokes here...US-441 overhead, and just under 39 miles to go and it'll be all over, red rover!1They've secured us, and now the Burr Yacht Sales group pose with us1This chain is great for steak or ribs. But eating desert first is a new concept to we Aussies1Blooming heck! It's a Blooming Onion...

    Day 45: Clewiston to Stuart

    November 17 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today, we cast off at 0800 and head out across Lake Okeechobee; destination the Burr Yacht Sales Marina at Stuart. I'm getting awfully close to CROSSING MY WAKE!! 🤪. Tonight we will eat heartily at The Outback Steakhouse in Stuart (a brasserie well-known to some of my brethren), as Preston celebrates the completion of another successful annual transmigration from south to north and back again... and for the first time with one charter customer for the entire round trip. He has generously permitted us to celebrate with him, on his nickel. I may order some expensive wine.

    We have a dream trip in dream Florida weather. Leaving Clewiston, the Lock is open and we sail straight out (as we sailed straight in yesterday). After a cruisey 2¾-hr runaway cross Lake Okeechobee [say 'Oak-a-chobee], we find the Port Mayaca Lock wide open, both ends, and we sail straight through that as well.

    What then follows is a pleasant jaunt along the St. Lucie Canal, beneath a few highway bridges and through two railroad swingers that are open for us. Preston knew they would be, anyway, as he's intimately and industrially familiar with the railroad timetables around here. We wave at vessels passing us and we gaze at the riverside lifestyles, once again revealed to us.

    Gradually, the vista changes to become decidedly outer-suburban until we encounter the St Lucie Lock. This is the last of 75 locks we negotiate on the Great Loop and it is the ONLY one where the Lockmaster rigidly enforces a rule to "completely shut your engine(s) down" (we do wonder what 'partially' shutting your engines down might entail). Anyways, we three vessels heading east duly do as required, and we're all lowered about 20 ft into the St. Lucie River.

    In short order, we're passing riverside marine industry and we soon arrive at the Burr Yacht Sales marina where about 7 staff members are waiting to welcome Preston back and to leap aboard to handle the lines. Rosie and I have a beverage while the Burr folks all re-connect with Preston and discuss many things.

    Burr Yacht Sales are the U.S. representatives for Fleming motor yachts and this marina is one of their two east coast dealership bases. The other one--at Edgewater, MD--we visited in May while heading north. Here, in Stuart, FL, it has to be said that the presentation of this Fleming agency rivals the best prestige car dealership you've ever seen. The property and its standard of presentation for the potential buyer is utterly 5-Star.

    Preston gets one of the company prestige Toyota vans, and takes Rosie and I out to the Outback Steakhouse for a celebratory dinner. Preston and I have the full rack of ribs... Rosie has the two lobster tails. We all share in one of the signature 'Blooming Onion' dishes.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1
    1The Franklin LockThe WP Franklin Lock. Our first for the day, 4 miles up a mirrored river.Rosie discusses the chances of seeing a Manatee, with the Lockmaster (mistress?).We've come 33 miles. 121 yet to go...The Port Mayaca and St. Lucie Locks are on the other (eastern) side of Lake Okeechobee1SIR WINSTON (formerly named The Grand Princess and The Grand Floridian)Riverside residenceRiverside residence under constructionRiverside residence1Florida wildlife. Wait... no, it's cattle.This riverside place is a ranchRed riverside residence1The Moore Haven railroad swing-bridge opens for us (and a westbound vessel)Drawbridge videoTurning at Moore Haven to follow the 'lake' around to ClewistonWhy we couldn't see the lake (red), and tomorrow's course estimate (yellow)Cypress trees love wet feet. The Okeechobee Waterway (and why we can't see the lake)More cypress trees in the lakeside waterway1If you go straight ahead here, you're standing into VERY shallow water. Turn right...!"Herons on cypress." Ok, enuff of the cypress trees...Alongside for the night. The bar is beyond... 😋A local lizard of the genus 'large'...Up to the minute weather report, courtesy of Roland Martin MarinaWho doesn't love a marina Tiki Bar?

    Day 44: Fort Myers to Clewiston

    November 16 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    [Photos to be added]
    We depart the Sweetwater Marina at 0815, with Rosie passing the lines as I'm a bit injured. Yesterday, while stepping off the boat I had to reach my foot across to gain the dock and our power cable was right there, lying along the dock. It was where my foot wanted to go, so I stepped on it. Bad idea! It rolled under my flip-flop and I went down on both knees (don't tell my orthopaedic surgeon) and strained something in my upper left chest area. Rosie got the First Aid kit out and dressed my knee wounds, and I limped over to the bar for some more meaningful treatment. I spent a slightly uncomfortable night and am a bit ginger this morning.

    The Caloosahatchee River is mirror-smooth on a beautiful 15C morning, and we move about 4 miles up-river to the first Lock, a minor lift of only a few feet. The river is scenic. We see landscaped residences for the monied folk and less-landscaped residences for the less-so. We see boats and docks. We see people fishing. Everything is sunny and calm. It's Florida in November, after all.

    I'm familiar with Clewiston--our destination today--having come there from Lake Placid with my brother and his wife on a "Sugar Express" steam-hauled excursion train prior to commencing the northbound half of my Loop journey back on 14 April. Our railroader captain, Preston, was running the locomotive on that day--something he does regularly every year--so he's well-familiar with Clewiston.

    I've lost the rest of this narrative now, twice, trying to get it done with stuff going on around me and I've not the energy to rewrite it a third time, so I'm just ending it here... unfinished. Goodnight!    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    This is how the Boca Grande Pass looks from 5 miles out in the Gulf1We track in towards the entranceThrough the entrance. We'll make a right turn.The broad sweep of Pine Island Sound. The Gulf is across the barrier island to the right.A commercial tour/lunchtime cruise turns ahead of usLook out for the locals! It's Saturday!Did I say look out for the locals? Fort Myers in the distance.Marker defining the start (Mile 0) of the Great LoopPicnic pontoons are very popular down hereBecause you can never have... oh, never mind! Approaching Fort Myers.Condos with a Caloosahatchee River view...Riverside residences along the Caloosahatchee1Drawbridge of the Seminole Gulf Railway"45 North" seen from the barThe Boathouse Tiki Bar & Grill. Can you spot Rosie?

    Day 43: Venice to Fort Myers

    November 15 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We're off the dock at 0700 with the help of Jack and a momentous degree of input from Rosie and I. Afterwards, our captain is sufficiently joyous that he commends us for our performance. This is not to be accepted lightly, as Preston is not instinctively given to doling out praise. We luxuriate in it for as long as we can.

    Today, we'll run down offshore to the Boca Grande entrance to Charlotte Harbor and then down the Pine Island Sound (this is the GIWW) to St. James City and Cape Coral. Here, we'll turn left up the Caloosahatchee River and run through Fort Myers along the Caloosahatchee River to the our marina destination. This will be an 8-hr day.

    The cruise down the coast is under clear skies and only a slightly lumpy sea. The main excitement for us is dodging the crabpot marker floats that are not painted for easy visibility and that sometimes, are almost under the bow before they're noticed. Having a crabpot line or chain sucked in by our props is not desirable!

    The broad, 3-5-mile-wide, expanse of Pine Island Sound is calm and shimmers in the bright sun. It's Saturday... there are as many boats in this part of the world as there are cars, and the people and their boats are out in force.

    We forge upstream on the Caloosahatchee River and finally dock at Hinkley Yacht Sales' Sweetwater Marina. The restaurant and bar is two boat-lengths away, so... 😁    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    Offshore passage from Anna Maria Island to Venice
    Rosie toured the island. This is a great photo of one of the beach areasHere's another Rosie beach photo1Triple Merc V12 600hp Verado engines, with dual props. Sick...!Diver scraping the hull of a motor yachtObligatory 'here's us arriving at the marina' photoFishers crowd the rock wall (I won't call it a 'mole', for Preston's sake)Fast, at the Crows Nest Marina in VeniceHorace the heron by our boat, getting ready to dine1Horace dines on tiny smelt-like fish swimming innocently around in the marina1This stern-in docking was a test of Preston's skills. Dock guys, Jack and Rick, were invaluable.

    Day 42: Anna Maria Island to Venice

    November 14 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I went for a 50-min walk this morning, on a beautiful, calm, day... 21C. We're in no hurry and after warning a diver who's cleaning the hull of the motor yacht moored next to us, we pull the lines and the power, and ease away from the dock at 1045. for the 45-mile run down to Venice Beach.

    Not much to report, today. We run down offshore to Venice in beautiful, calm weather, dodging crabpot markers that seem to pop up ahead of us at 'short notice'. The GIWW between Anna Maria Island and Venice is apparently 'shoaly' and 'bridgy', and not for this boat (even though you can never have too many bridges!). Perhaps we'll be able to return to the inside at Boca Grande for a brief run down to Cape Coral and Fort Myers.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    Nebo didn't capture our first 2¾ hrs, so I've added it
    1From our mooring - low tide on a cold, blustery dayFrom our mooring - high tide on a calm and warmer day1Anne plays a very old piano for us in the Raney MansionThe dining room1Free of the foliage...Shrimp boat goes right, we go left and head up Apalachicola BayWe're on our wayJust another sunset. Pilothouse and instrument lighting is turned down1This is the port-side stabiliser from the engineroomThe highrises on the beach at Clearwater hove into view at 0800, 20 miles away to portEntering Tampa Bay. Sunshine Skyway Bridge in the distance.1The impressive Sunshine Skyway bridgeEntering the marina. The opening is wide but the channel is not!Fast and safe on Anna Maria Island...Borrowed this image from a Galati Yacht Sales brochure1

    Day 40/41: Apalachicola to Tampa

    November 12 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today's the day. Actually, our run will be from Apalachicola to Anna Maria Island in Tampa Bay, not Tampa itself! The sky is clear and the wind is calm. The temp at 1000 hrs is 15C and the High here is forecast to be 19C (66F). Around noon we'll cast off and conduct a 2¾-hr voyage up Apalachicola Bay, beneath the bridge we drove over yesterday, then turn out into the Gulf for the 165-mile (266-km) crossing to Tampa Bay. Should take us about 24 hrs. Preston gives us a briefing on safety when running at night. Rule 1: Do not go outside the cabin, or pilothouse during darktime. If you go overboard, you'll never be found. Rule 2: Refer to Rule 1. Rule 3: See Rule 2.

    Having decided we would all benefit from a leg-stretch before 24 hrs on board, we visit a very nice lady, Anne, who is looking after the Raney House museum today. She shows us around and knows the history backwards. What a marvellous old mansion. The family had six servants; three male and three female.... hmmmmm. The family lived here during an era in which Apalachicola was one of the largest ports by export trade (mostly lumber and cotton) on the Gulf coast.

    We then repair across the street to the pop-up burger joint and get lunch (I have a fried flounder sandwich) which we take back and eat out in the cockpit. We get to work and are under way by 1315, heading out onto Apalachicola Bay for the run up to the East Pass for passage out into the Gulf of Mexico. We have over 900 gal of diesel on board (of which we'll use less than 200), our freshwater capacity is at 42% and the watermaker will have that at around 70% by the time we arrive. We have food a-plenty and the engines are running like sewing machines. We're good to go.
    Some dolphin friends arrive and it's good to see them. In fact, the Apalachicola Bay is a marine ecological disaster zone. Its oyster industry--once the largest in Florida--has been completely wiped out and other species are in great danger. Why? Because of fresh water use on land and a reversal of water flows caused by the manmade waterways, some of which we've just negotiated from Mobile, cutting through watersheds. I'm glad we could see this area and I hope that steps can be taken by the state that will mitigate this crisis.

    We roll on up the bay and at 1545 Preston makes the critical right turn that takes us around the shoaling and through the East Pass. A group of fishers on the shore of Dog Island wave us out of the bay and by 1615 the barrier islands are falling astern and our only company now is a pod of dolphins. We're at sea.

    We head a little into a blustery wind to make a track of 145° with a 1-2 ft swell. It's comfortable and the evening closes in as we have Rosie's patented shrimp cocktails with her patented seafood sauce (Rosie shouted us 3-doz which I picked up on the wharf prior to departing).

    We doze on the couch or nap on our beds and take a watch in the pilothouse. Preston has made the pilothouse bed and will take his naps there. The crossing is uneventful, the moon rises (that's good!), and the instruments show no other traffic around us.

    At dawn, we're still 5 hrs out, and we have corn muffins, crispy bacon, and scrambled eggs. The tops of the tallest buildings on the Clearwater beachfront are visible, about 20 miles away on our port side. Eventually, we can see the buildings along the Gulf shore of St. Petersburg, and in due course we're in the channel and entering Tampa Bay. The bay extends away to our left beneath the 4-mile-long, cable-stayed, Bob Graham Sunshine Skyway Bridge (which has its own tragic history), but we're not going that way. We turn right and head down to our destination island and Galati's Marina inside the tight little Bimini Bay, where we tie up at 1230, after 23¼ hrs.

    We're well-placed to continue into the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway tomorrow for a short day down to Venice Beach.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1Looking northwest. The red arrow shows our mooring
    1Rubbish comes down the creek and builds up around the boatIf it's a bike, we can fix it. We'll just throw it in the tree, and presto!A Taphouse, with a good bar menu (I know!)...Oops... how did that get in here? No need for everyone to know my favourite burb...If it's open tomorrow, we might give it a look.A modest Florida mansionA couple of blocks of part of the very nice Apalachicola downtown retail, bar, and restaurant areaThis is the Covnty Covrt Hovse...A nicely-presented hostelery with a nice restaurant (I think)...You can get anything you want at the Raw Bar restaurant"A funny old bird is the pelican. It's beak can hold more than its belly can..." Nice one, Preston!A modest Florida mansionThis little place is open from 0600 to 1100 each day, and is directly across from our mooringHole In The Wall breakfast bar... right next to our boatThe bridge over Apalachicola Bay connecting to St Georges IslandA lovely beach out on St. Georges Island, and great public infrastructure - shelter, BBQs etcBeach houses along the St Georges Island seafrontSpanish Moss in Tallahassee1I had to show this... a level crossing on the highway back from Tallahassee to Apalachicola1Herewith the Florida State Capitol Building in Tallahassee

    Day 38/39: At Apalachicola

    Nov 10–13 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Our first morning is brisk. We awake to a fine, clear day but with a bitterly cold northwesterly wind. 8C, "feels like 4C". You can say that again! Preston has looked closely at the forecast and believes we'll be here until at least Wed, for favourable weather for our 24-hr run across Florida's 'armpit' to Tampa.

    Rosie goes to explore the town. I spend several hours updating the Blog and eventually go off to do the same, subsequently gravitating to a craft beer taphouse. It's freezing cold in the wind, and warm away from it.

    Our second morning (Tues) dawns the same as yesterday, but even colder. At 0845 my weather app is showing Apalachicola as being 5C ('Feels Like -2C'), expected High of 15C.

    I get a local taxi (the only one) out to the airfield where the rental car agency lives. With the car safely in hand, we three (Preston comes along... thankfully) set off to explore St Georges Island and then we drive inland to Tallahassee, the state capital, where Rosie is keen to see some architecture from the 'oldendays'.

    With that done, we head back to Apalachicola--buying and eating boiled peanuts on the way--then we do a last grocery shop and it's back to the boat. Then back out to the airport to return the car, our friendly taxi man back into town and Rosie and I go out for dinner, which ends up being at the Taphouse.

    Tomorrow... the Gulf!    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1
    Departing our marina. Across the lagoon, they're big on Robert Louis StevensonWe've negotiated the head of East Bay and are into Wetappo Creek1You sometimes see some crazy craft. This one passed us.This damage was caused by a Force 5 hurricaneA great cloudscape as we head east... some cumulo-nimbusAnother abandoned boater's mishapAmong the hurricane damage, is this the last Fall colour we'll see?Peaking out of the Gulf County Canal onto Lake WimicoHey, Heckle... is that ANOTHER boat coming? Looks like it, Jeckyl... what do you think, Freckle?Bald cypress with feet in water, spanish moss, and fan palmsSame...1Aerial view from Lake Wimico, looking back west.Passing the junction of the canal to Port St Joe... 5 miles in a straight lineAnother borrowed image of Lake Wimico1Looking east to Apalachicola and the Gulf at the mouth of the Jackson River1"Shine Down"Remnant swing bridge on the abandoned Apalachicola Northern RRA view across Scipio Creek at what will be our berth on the Ice Co wharf, with Water St beyond"45 North" moored at the Apalachicola Ice Co. wharf on Water StSticky Tim socks it to 'em at the High Five Dive Bar on Water St in Apalachicola

    Day 37: Panama City to Apalachicola

    November 9 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    What of Panama City and Panama City Beach? The place is known for beautiful beaches with white sand and clear water, tourism attractions, and its fishing industry. The region is also recognised for its military presence due to Tyndall Air Force Base and the Naval Support Activity Base, as well its active shipbuilding and paper mill industries.

    We're off the dock at 0730. What will the weather bring today? We're expecting colder weather and perhaps even wet and windy weather to catch up with us soon. As we depart the marina in Grand Lagoon, the day is calm, 25C, and a bit humid. Today, as we head 'across country' to reconnect with the Gulf, we are wondering how long we might be delayed at Apalachicola until we can make the ocean jump across the 'armpit'. When we do, we expect to make landfall around Clearwater and go into Tampa Bay.

    Anyway, back to today. Departing Panama City we head across St Andrews Bay heading for the DuPont bridge--carrying Hwy 98 to points south along the Florida coast--and into East Bay. We'll follow the meanderings of East Bay for almost 20 miles up to its head, where we enter the Gulf County Canal for a run of around 30 miles to Lake Wimico. After a 5-mile traverse of that lake, we'll enter the Jackson River for the 10-miles down to the Gulf coast at Apalachicola (no relation to Coca, and just to be survived, Preston says).

    Leaving Panama City behind, our voyage along East Bay continues, with some significant changes of course, until at 1030 we're finally entering Wetappo Creek, with a few sinuous miles yet to run to the canal. The voyage along the Gulf County Canal is mostly unremarkable (but never uninteresting) and I tried not to overdo the canal photography.. Some fish are jumping, and there are a few pelicans and some other birds but that's the extent of the wildlife we're aware of.

    With 3 miles to run, the canal becomes 'Searcy Creek' on our charts, and this takes us out into Lake Wimico. It's becoming more cloudy, although the temp is still 26C. The humidity is low but quite noticeable. There is a forecast 'Freeze Watch' for Port St Joe--which is down on the coast and off behind us now--for tomorrow evening. Brrrrr (in advance).

    At 1410 we emerge from Searcy Creek directly onto the lake. The channel across here is be followed... no ifs or buts. I steered down the canal, but the channel across Lake Wimico is a task for El Kapitan. We exit the lake into the Jackson River (which becomes the Apalachicola River) for the final 20-odd miles to Apalachicola on the Gulf coast.

    Anyways, Preston gets us safely to our mooring at the old ice-works warehouse in Scipio Creek with--it goes without saying--Rosie and I handling the lines, which we are able to hand to a helpful couple on a 44-ft TrawlerCat, who've moored ahead of us. We've seen this boat off-and-on since leaving Chicago, and the last time was on the Lock wall in the Kaskaskia River, just off the Mississippi.

    Safely moored, Rosie goes off for a walk to explore the street out front of the old ice works and I go across the road to a bar where a very good solo guitarist is making mellow country music noises.

    Cheeseburgers on the grill tonight.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    Bye, bye ShalimarThe broad sweep of Choctawhatchee BayTracking out into the bayCanalside trees hang on for dear lifeCanal bank erosionCanalside treesA bridge, but not too far... only 3.5 milesA view of the approach to The Ditch from the head of Choctawhatchee BayOff the bay and into The DitchSome boater's misfortuneBye, bye Choctawhatchee Bay and an unfortunate boater's folly. The Bay Causeway and Bridge recede.Down "The Ditch"Yet another boater's misfortune...We pass one barge tow in The DitchThe end of The Ditch. Looking out into West Bay.A local fisher1LCS 38, to become the USS Pierre, berthed at Panama CityA raucous party pontoon bobs past in the bayWe moor beside a pirate ship

    Day 36: Shalimar to Panama City

    November 8 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    At a civilised 0745, we're off the dock and moving out into Choctawhatchee Bay for a 30-mile run to its head. To the right, the Destin Bridge carrying Hwy 98 crosses from the far eastern extremity of the long, skinny Santa Rosa Island to Destin and Miramar Beach on the Point Washington State Forest 'mainland'. Ahead on the distant bay horizon, those with good ocular acuity (😄) can see the 3.6-mile Mid-Bay Toll Bridge carrying Hwy 293 across the bay. The dolphins again rendezvous with us, as we run up to 2,400 rpm for 20 min, to 'give the engines a go'.

    From the Mid-bay Bridge, a further 15-mile run up the bay gets us to the three-mile-long Hwy 331 Causeway and Bridge. From the start of the Gulf ICW off Mobile Bay to Panama City, this part of Florida needs bridges to connect numerous islands and to span wide bays. As a wise person once said, you can never have too many bridges! Within a further brief 3½ miles we've run the length of Chocktawhatchee Bay and are suddenly in 'The Ditch'.

    We run along the canal for its 20-mile length--meeting one barge tow--slide beneath the Hwy 79 bridge and emerge into West Bay, FL. 36 days ago we departed from West Bay (in Grand Traverse Bay) at Traverse City, MI. The weather has been sunny, around 25C (77F), and with a gentle following breeze. It increases by a knot or two in West Bay, and produces a small swell of >1 ft.

    After a voyage of around 10 miles across West Bay we enter Grand Lagoon and run beneath the Hwy 98 Hathaway Bridge - about 8 miles to run to our destination, the Lighthouse Marina. Tonight we'll eat at the Grand Marlin marina restaurant... about 30 yards in front of our boat.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    The broad sweep of Santa Rosa SoundMoving sand around at the narrows of Robertson StraitColourful pastel shades, similar to many we saw along the Atlantic ICW.Slightly tall structures tend to stand out on the low coastal areas of Alabama and FloridaWe're reminded that the Gulf ICW is still a commercial ditchThe Blue Angels arrive. Oops...!1The Blue Angels make smoke. Can you see them?There's Angels on the starboard bow, starboard bow, starboard bow, Preston!The Angels are tucked into a delta formationRosie was the only one to get this low pass... but only the solo guy. The formation had passed.Preston checks the chart...This was a familiar sight for us on the Atlantic ICW. The old bridge remains as a fishing dock.This is for Graeme...2The Two Georges Marina, Shalimar, FL

    Day 35: Orange Beach, Al to Shalimar, Fl

    November 7 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We're away from the excellent Wharf Marina before 0900 and are soon crossing the lower end of Wolf Bay. We'll then traverse the length of Bay La Launch (yes... truly, 'La Launch'!) and then Bellville Bay and the Sunset Pass canal to Big Lagoon. We'll pass the U.S. Naval Air Station Pensacola (maybe we'll get to see the Blue Angels again), then the outlet of Pensacola Bay, and we'll be into the Santa Rosa Sound for a 40-mile run before we turn up toward Ocean City and Shalimar, our destination for today.

    Well, we do indeed get to see our own aerial display by the Blue Angels. As we motor along Big Bay, and through Robertson Strait into the lower end of Pensacola Bay, and past Fort Pickens Strait--an opening to the Gulf--a group of three in formation sneak up from astern and blow us away with a raucous exhaust cacaphony. After that, we're treated to a lengthy fly-around as another group join up and a couple of soloists too. It's noisy, they do a bit of smoke, and we're thankful for seeing them. "Teamwork, Professionalism, and Precision" is their motto... I'll pay that!

    We continue on a broad sound, in calm, if humid, conditions. On the Gulf side, the scene along the narrow string that is Santa Rosa Island alternates between high-rise condos and sand low dunes. The dolphins visit again and take up station of varying sides for a while. The broad Santa Rosa Sound eventually narrows and requires some 'steering' as we follow the channel, still mostly in 20 ft of water.

    The bridge carrying Hwy 98, the Miracle Strip Parkway, slips overhead and with that we've entered the wonderfully-named Choctawhatchee Bay. A left turn takes us up towards Shalimar and our dock for the night at the Two Georges Marina.

    Yesterday, returning to the marina from Pensecola, we stopped at a church stall and bought a 'used' (probably a Halloween decoration) pumpkin. Tonight we're having homemade pumpkin soup, cold roast chook from the fridge, and hot roast veges from the air-fryer. It's all good, but the pumpkin doesn't have the same flavour profile that we're used to. Interesting.

    The rain arrives as we settle down. It'll pass.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1
    The "Pride of Pensacola"Some people would call this graffiti...Pensacola can never have too many. This is their Bay Bridge, 3 whole miles of it.1Sunset from Shaggys Restaurant2This would be my sort of tavern...Is this why the precinct is called Orange Beach

    Day 34: At Orange Beach

    November 6 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    So, we're not actually 'on' the beach... our marina on the ICW is a 4½-mile drive away. But you have to go through the precinct of Orange Beach to get to Pensacola. And to Pensacola we went, because I wanted to see the famed U.S. Naval Aviation Aerobatic Display Team, the "Blue Angels".

    But I drove with a heavy heart. The Naval Aviation Museum on the U.S. Naval Air Station Pensacola was closed (we knew that) due to the government shutdown, and the next Blue Angels public practice session (they have several each year) would be on 15 Nov, by which time we might well have completed the Loop. As we drove up and over the Perdido Key Bridge, Rosie sings out, "There they are!". And sho-nuff... there they were... wheeling over Pensacola Bay in a classic Diamond Formation, with smoke. We only saw them for about 3 seconds. A short time later, as we drove along 292, Sorrento Rd, the jets came low across the highway, one behind the other, with gear down. They were in the pattern for landing. And that was it, not a scheduled practice session, just some practice, and we lucked onto it for 3 seconds. There was nothing left to do but go for a drive through and around Pensacola and then over the lengthy Pensalcola Bay Bridge and the Pensacola Beach Toll Bridge to Shaggys at Little Sabine Bay, for lunch. Rosie has developed a taste for Gulf shrimp which must be satisfied.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    Crossing Mobile Bay to Oyster Bay. Dog River at left, Mobile in distance.1A lighthouse in Mobile Bay. Shades of Chesapeake Bay.We have company crossing the bay...Approaching the start of the Gulf ICW at Oyster Bay. The final sector of my adventure.Bye, bye, bay!1Lulu's. The late Jimmy Buffet's wife, owns this chain. We ate at Lulu's in Myrtle Beach, SC.Across the canal from Lulu's. Gaudy is as gaudy does.1Another one for Graeme...Believe it or not, a tourist 'Pirate Boat' is under construction. Aaaaaaarrrrrgh...Approaching our destination at Orange BeachKeeping up with the Jones' may mean having your own sport fishing boatAs we turn into the marina, some 'company traffic' becomes apparent (a '58)I wonder how many 'tuna towers' there are in the world with this name?The Wharf shopping, bar, and restaurant complex outside our marina

    Day 33: Dog River to Orange Beach

    November 5 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today is a modest skip across Mobile Bay to enter the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway. This is the next (and final) part of my Great Loop voyage. From here it'll be the GICW, and a small bit of off-shore, to Fort Myers then across the Florida Peninsula via Lake Okeechobee, and finished!. Maybe 12 days, if we're lucky.

    We make a leisurely start and cruise out into the bay.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1Tensaw River anchorage to Dog River, near Mobile
    Misty morning in the anchorage...Two GFBGS boats have arrived overnightThe GFBGS with four outboards passes and throttles up1The other one passes. Google tells me it's a 'Palm Beach' motor yacht, likely a PB52 or PB55All in a day's work for the captain. He stays cool with a hot coffee...Q: What do you call warn sunlight on a muddy riverbank? A: Gatoraid.Down- and Upbound barge tows pass on the Mobile River1Interstate-65 crosses here on two handsome spans... the General W.K. Wilson Jr. BridgeThis is what you call 'loaded to the gunnels' (gunwales).The CSX Railroad lift-bridge. No trains just now. A barge tow will follow us through.The CSX RR crosses a bayou via a swing bridge. The dish is for their advanced signalling system.Looking down the river, through the port, toward the bayThe Mobile AquariumMobile cruise terminal and aquarium1The S.S. United States being readied for sinking as a dive-site out in the GulfFrom the river we get our first sight of MobileOne for Graeme. Moored behind us at Grand Mariner Marina.Cheeseburgers on the grill, salad doings below, all is well...1Abandoned and derelict opposite the marina at the Dog River inletHere's the Palm Beach motor yacht that blew us away leaving the Tensaw anchorage this morning

    Day 32: Tensaw River anchorage to Mobile

    November 4 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Just a lazy 50 miles today, down through the heart of the Port of Mobile to Alligator Bayou and the Grand Mariner Marina for a couple of nights.

    It's anchor aweigh at 0730, and--with the morning mist on a crackerjack day lifting languidly off the river--we're soon pushing back out into the Mobile River for a run, with the ebbing tide, down toward the Bay. Area couple of GFBGS boats have snuck into our anchorage overnight, and they soon pass us, heading downstream to a gas station somewhere. Preston gets me to snap a quick photo of the one with 4 outboards... "Graeme'll like that one," he says.

    We catch up with a downbound barge tow and slow down to let them meet an upbound tow, after which we sneak past on his 'Two', 30 ft off the bank and with 10 ft depth... but it's all done safely and we only see 10 ft for a few feet. We've been watching numerous flamingos diving and catching fish, and as we get closer to Mobile we begin to see alligators up on the muddy riverbanks, getting their cold reptilian blood warmed up. Pity they're all some distance from us, and we can only get distant shots on our phones. It's about slack water now, and those muddy banks will soon disappear.

    The Mobile River brings us directly into and through the Port of Mobile, but we continue past the city and out into Mobile Bay. We're heading for a narrow inlet leading to a large estuary called Dog River. We follow the main shipping channel for a while, then cut across to our right via a side channel. The Grand Mariners Marina is just inside the inlet, and we're secured there by 1400. Preston thinks we'll have missed a golden opportunity to experience the famous culinary delights of Dauphin St if we don't go into the city for dinner. But Rosie and I decide that neither of us feels like walking the length of the street to view what restaurants have to offer, and we decide that I'll BBQ some hamburger and we'll warm some buns up and construct some 'burgers-with-the-lot', using up bits-and-pieces in the fridge. We may still get to see Dauphin St later.

    We settle down to a beautifully calm and mild evening. Tomorrow will not require a departure at 'sparrow's'...    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1Good old Nebo captured most of our day...
    A marina of modest promise...The sadly now-closed restaurantA misty mooring at Coffeeville. We drink our coffee as the others arrive.Some 'down-home' wisdom, y'all, at Bobby'sMore from Bobby's. Couldn't recognise Arthur Moffat's secret knot.Away from the last Lock (prior to the later traverse across the Florida peninsular)The railroad bridge is down... but no train do we see. We slip beneath, anyway.So near to Mobile, and yet so far. We're the red icon at the bottom.Our wee group from last night follows us down the riverApproaching our destination, a work-barge is conducting 'underwater work' with Diver Below flags1The flotilla floats peacefully at anchorage in the Tensaw River4Rosie has selected her field, and gets ready to watch the Melbourne Cup via the internet

    Day 32: Bobby's to Tensaw River (anchor)

    November 3 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Off the dock at Bobby's Fish Camp at 0600 and feeling our foggy way down to the Coffeeville Lock where we're into the chamber at 0630 for a 30-ft drop to tidewater, along with 6 other rec vessels.

    As we depart the Lock, the rising sun commences to burn off the mist and everyone takes their positions. Two RFBGS (Run Fast Between Gas Stations) vessels overtake us, we overtake a downbound barge tow in 13 ft of water, and a couple of hardy bloopers tuck in behind us, satisfied with our intended 10 mph for the day.

    We voyage on - the river wide but not particularly deep, sometimes twisting and turning madly. At midday, we're 20-odd miles from Mobile as the crow flies, but about 100 river miles. At 2:15 we meet the Alabama River, which, having joined with the Tombigbee, now becomes the Mobile River and will take us down to Mobile Bay (tomorrow).

    By 3:00 pm we're at the meeting with the Tensaw River into which we all turn for our anchorage. Make mine a margarita...    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1
    The old and the new. Bye, bye, Demopolis.A river mist suddenly developsWe follow "Slow Poke" into the chamberA big DeFever rafts against us as 10 boats follow in1Herons huddle like old grandfathers at a football match1Rosie was perturbed that we'd be collected by the gate, but this was by prior arrangementA look back at the Demopolis Falls as we exit the LockThe white chalk riverbank is apparent as we overtake "Slow Poke"This house looks dicey, but we thought it was well-pinned to the bank1An interesting thing... an upbound tow about to pass this downbound, who we're about to reel inBut the upbound skipper plants his against the bank and and holds station as we all slide past1To every thing, turn, turn, turn... 4 other rec boats behind us, their names come up on AIS1A video and a photo to show what's wet behind the deers...Another one. He went straight up that bank and into the bush like a kangaroo.1Preston's been going mad with his camera lately1The Norfolk Southern RR lift bridge in the down position, but no train while we were in the vicinity

    Day 31: Demopolis to Bobby's Fish Camp

    November 2 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The Tenn-Tom Waterway ended yesterday as we cruised past the confluence of the Black Warrior River at Demopolis, and turned into the Kingfisher Bay Marina. From here, we'll be officially on the Tombigbee River, not the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway.

    Today, we're up and ready by 0500, but there's a couple of barge tows down at the Lock, so we cool our heels. The pre-dawn shows a clear sky and no fog. At 0600 we hear the Lockmaster on the radio say he's planning to tell the rec vessels (that's us... all 30-odd of us) to come down and be ready in 40 minutes. We fire up, cast off, and are #2 away from the marina and into the river. We lurk at the Lock for 30 min then, when called in, we slip through a curtain of developing river-mist, to enter the chamber as #1 on the port-side wall. We wait as a dozen following boats come in - some of them having to raft-up, including one to our starboard side.

    We drop 40 ft, and once the gates open, we're off and away. This will be a long sector today, so we're running at close to 1,700 rpm to get the river behind us. Apparently, Bobby's used to have a great restaurant, but it became too much for the family and closed in 2020. But for us it is--at least--a dock to tie up to, which is preferable to anchoring.

    There are two other boats at Bobby's when we arrive, and we tie up on the available dock space - half-on and half-off the dock. Two more vessels arrive after us and raft up to the other two ahead of us. We are not a good raft host, since we have an unstable mooring. The local Labrador brings his rock to me to throw, and I make the mistake of doing so. He's my mate for life, and I have I throw it 400 times before I make it back to the boat, and safety. I feel like a baseball pitcher at the end of a ballgame.

    Tomorrow, we have the Coffeeville Lock, just down from the fish camp. This will drop us to tidewater... yikes, we're still more than 110 miles away from Mobile Bay!    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1Nebo tracks our southbound October voyage

    Day 30: At Demopolis

    November 1 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Today was a 'rest' day. We got the marina courtesy car and went into town to do a food shop. Getting back to the boat and putting everything away, it was decided between Rosie and I that neither of us was sufficiently attracted to the town to go back and look around. So we stayed on board, Preston washed the boat down, Rosie went for a walk, and I attacked my over-full Inbox. Another major river in the region, the Black Warrior River, meets the Tombigbee here at Demopolis. It is the Tombigbee's major tributary. The river is named after the Mississippian paramount chief Tuskaloosa, whose name in the Muskogean language meant 'Black Warrior'.

    Tomorrow, we intend for a pre-dawn departure to try and be ahead of the 30-strong blooper flotilla that is expected to depart here from 0800. So it'll be a departure in the dark and we're hoping for no fog. It'll be a 100-mile day and we'll anchor out tomorrow night. The first challenge will be the Demopolis Lock. How everything will work out tomorrow is yet to be known. Daylight Saving time reverts here tonight.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1
    The sunrise is burning off the mist. We'll be moving soon. "State Of Grace" waits too.1The sun is in the wrong place to properly illuminate the cliffs from this perspective2The famous White Cliffs of Epes. Looking back, the light is right.1The famous White Cliffs of Epes (2)Arriving at Demopolis' Kingfisher Bay MarinaIt's a long walk from our dock around to the office to book the courtesy carWe were early for the Halloween party, but I always like to get a good seat

    Day 29: Warsaw (anchor) to Demopolis, AL

    October 31 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    [Under construction]
    We're up at 0630 looking for a quick getaway from anchorage... but a line of blue running lights away downriver in the darkness evidence a barge tow stopped against the bank and it's soon obvious why - there's fog down on the river. So Preston cooks sausage (not 'sausages') and biscuits, and we have another leisurely breakfast.

    We finally weigh anchor at 0800, head out into the stream, and make for the Howell-Heflin Lock & Dam, as number 3 in the flotilla. Howell-Heflin drops us about 35 ft and we extricate ourselves from the floating weed and head for Demopolis.

    We're looking for Jones Bluff to starboard and a shart left-hand bend in the river. This will warn us to have cameras ready for some Blogworthy scenery, unique to this place on the river.

    The famed White Cliffs Of Epes [EPE-iss] hove into view as we round a sharp bend in the river. This view is an Alabama icon. We overtake a PowerCat and forge on to Demopolis and the Kingfisher Bay Marina. Having docked, I hightail it around the 1 km walk to get to the marina office to book the marina courtesy car for a grocery shop tomorrow.

    I return to the boat, have a lazy but well-deserved beverage with Rosie, then we get ready for the marina Halloween Party. Sleep-in tomorrow!    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1On the Tenn-Tom Waterway - the Tombigbee River section
    1Manoeuvering away from the Columbus Marina dockFive of us wait in the poolI spy some barges loaded with metal scrap lurking up a Tombigbee side-channelA cast of hawks get juiced up waiting for their next meal1The "USS (United States Snagboat) Montgomery" museum-pieceAre these trees drowning slowly or are they coming to terms with their flooding and sprouting?All NZers know what a 'long-drop' is... but this is differentA small bit of remediation required hereNone required here...Preston looks to ensure our anchor is grabbingA quick view of our anchored evening - the Warsaw CutoffThe neighbouring boat at anchor snapped this one of 45 North. Wasn't that nice of them?

    Day 28: Columbus to Warsaw (anchor)

    October 30 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Sweet Home Alabama! Lynyrd Skynyrd sings us into this section of the western rivers voyage. A leisurely breakfast indeed, then thrusting of the dock at 0800 to find that we're No. 5 of five vessels inching out through the marina entrance... we have a foot to spare under the keel. The Aberdeen Lock is right here, so we float around for 20 min before we get the green from the Lockmaster. We're No. 5 in and (after a 23-ft drop) No. 5 out, but by accord with the other captains, "45 North" takes up lead station, and we forge on at a steady 9-10 mph, Rosie at the helm. 23 miles to go to the John C. Stennis Lock & Dam.

    We Lock through John Stennis with a minor delay (waiting for a Nordic Tug straggler to get themselves in behind us) and continue down-river. 28 miles to the Tom Bevill Lock & Dam and a further 32 miles to the Warsaw Cutoff, and our anchorage.

    Last year, Preston tells me, there was no-one here... this year there's 4 bloopers already in the good anchorage spots. We amble around for 15 min looking for an acceptable and not-too-deep anchorage, and finally secure same.

    When Preston is satisfied the anchor is holding, the instruction is, "Let the party begin." 'Finished with Engines', and we thus repair to the cockpit for (appropriately) cocktails.

    We're having a chicken casserole tonight, but it's no more than we deserve...    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1
    1A zoomed-in view of our progress todayRiver scene - woodchip loaderRiver scene - transient barges are tied to a dock that is actually an old barge beached on the bank1We meet the Tombigbee River. We're now in the 'River' section of the Tenn-Tom WaterwayOspreys don't only build nests on Lock and marina structures on the ICW1A typical portion of the 'River' section of the Tenn-TomRiver scene - you come upon them 'out of the blue' when you think there's no human habitation around1The old Columbus & Greenville Railroad bridge over the Tombigbee River near Waverley Ferry Cutoff1Tied up at Columbus Marina. No, no... ours is the smaller one!

    Day 27: Fulton (Midway) to Columbus, MS

    October 29 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    No boring photos of Locks today. You've (almost) had enough. The scenery along the waterway is pretty much constant, and the industry we see is still huge heaps of woodchips and a damp, mulchy-looking shredded material.

    We're still in Mississippi. On a cool morning, in the rainy darkness, Rosie helps Preston get us off the dock and away from Midway Marina. It's only a few miles down the Fulton Pool to the Lock, for a 23-foot drop (measured by Rosie from the depth scale in the chamber). Two other bloopers have gotten an early start and follow us into the chamber. We're about to drop, when our nemesis, "Perfect Seas" calls from 2 miles back and cries "wait for us". So, as we did at Whitton yesterday, we--and the others--do again.

    Out of Fulton, and 15 miles to run to Wilkins Pool and the Glover Wilkins Lock & Dam. But first, we have to pass two barge tows. The second is on a curve and its captain co-operatively puts the head of his tow to the right-hand bank and holds position while we four PCs slide past on his 'One'.

    A light fog drops upon us as we motor down towards Smithville and the Glover Wilkins Lock. "Perfect Seas" is perfectly positioned right with us (for a change) as we get the green from the Lockmaster and motor straight in. When the Lockmaster gets 4 calls that 4 boats are secure on the floating bollards, he sounds the horn and it's "Dive, Dive, Dive!" We dive down 24 feet. The Amory Lock & Dam (the 'Thad Cochran') is 5 miles ahead. Most of the Locks have been named to honour people, usually politicians, who've had something to do with the creation of the Waterway. In this case, the honoured person is Mrs Cochran's little boy, Thad (actually, 'William'). He was an attorney and politician who was a senator (R) for Mississippi from 1978 to 2018. He previously served in the U.S. House of Representatives from 1973 to 1978.

    Once again, we're in luck. There's nothing coming up, and the Lock is ready for us. We sail in, secure (as do our accompanying three vessels), and are dropped 23 ft.

    We depart, and 4 miles later pass the confluence with the Tombigbee River. This is where the 'Canal' section of the T-T Waterway ends and the 'River' section begins. The Tombigbee River course winds sinuously through a marshy land, but the waterway cuts through the crazy curvature, and we come along Aberdeen Lake, to the Aberdeen Lock & Dam, 11 miles down from the Cochran. Again, our luck holds. The Lockmaster has the gates open and we have a green light so straight in we go.

    Time for a stocktake. Today, I'm 4,460 miles into my Loop, so I'm beyond ¾ of the total distance; Hobe Sound, FL-to-Hobe Sound. The weather has been good to me/us (except for when I returned to Georgia and South Carolina in the depths of their summer... that was a challenge). I'm well, no colds or flu. Just a couple of brief bouts of hayfever. Lorraine had left me some tiny magic pills for that, that work like magic, so I'm good if it ever recurs. I've driven around 10,000 miles in Enterprise rental cars without any dramas--from sea-level to 11,000 ft asl--(so that I'm now a Gold member), except for one infringement for passing a school bus in upstate NY when it was stopped (which I cannot remember doing, but which the rental car agency paid and deducted from my credit card weeks later). My left elbow got sore and still is... maybe 'tennis elbow' (it happened while I was lifting hand weights in a hotel gym), my new knee is holding up and my other one only reminds me it's there every now and then. I've lost some weight and maybe I might lose a bit more. So, this extended trip is going well for me (taps fist against skull).

    We arrive at the Columbus, MS, Marina at 1500 and get tied up in the rain with help from the marina staff. The free marina car is booked out, so we won't get to shop until we reach Demopolis, AL, in two days. But we'll make it... even if we're down to our cans of baked beans.

    We'll have a more leisurely start tomorrow (and maybe a leisurely breakfast) and go 50-odd miles to anchor near a wee place called Warsaw.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    1
    Just a Tenn-Tom view1A creek entry 'baffle'. One of many we see. Most have a very light inflow.1Into the Whitton Lock... for the biggest fall on the Great Loop ('rise', if coming the other way)Into the Whitton Lock1Right to the very farthest end... there are 7 other boats with us1We're down... now for the gates to open to let us out. Compare with previous 2 photos.Exiting the Whitton LockEntering the Montgomery Lock for about a 30-ft dropBetween Locks on Beaver LakeLoading woodchips and pulp along the waterwayWaiting to drop and looking at an osprey nestExiting the Montgomery Lock after a 'modest' 30-ft dropI called this award-worthy image "Three Lumps In A Lake"Entering the Rankin LockThe Midway Marina near Fulton, MS. "45 North" is hidden behind a big KroganVacation cabins at the marinaCovered picnic area in a frisbee course at the marina. Includes bar, toilets, and fireplace.See previous. A nice amenity provided by the marina.Marina restaurant. "Guy's Place - On-water Dining"

    Day 26: Grand Harbor to Fulton

    October 28 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We're in the great state of Mississippi and today will be our first on the Tenn-Tom. We're off the dock around 0715 in dim light and under a leaden sky, and are soon sailing the length of Yellow Creek (more a small lake, really) to the entrance to the Tenn-Tom, in company with 3 bloopers (happy days!).

    A pleasant cruise ensues, with Rosie at the helm, as we wend our way along the waterway for 24 miles between developing fall colour, to enter the top end of Bay Springs Lake. Eight miles down the lake, we encounter the Jamie L. Whitten Lock, and life gets interesting. This Lock is the highest we encounter on the entire Loop, and will drop us 81.4 ft to a continuation of the Tenn-Tom. A further 4 miles through scenic Tishomingo County and we are at the G. V. "Sonny" Montgomery Lock & Dam. As we head south, a buck is spotted swimming across the river between the vessels in our (now) 10-ship flotilla. It's behind us and I hope to get a video from someone to put here in due course (PS: this evening we meet the crew of "Slow Poke", and the lady generously promises to email a copy of the video. It is awesomely bloggable!). The captains warn each other to watch out for the animal, which makes it across and disappears into the riverside forest. A further 8½ miles--most of it along the Rankin Pool (Beaver Lake)--and we arrive at the John E. Rankin Lock & Dam. We're almost done for the day - after this Lock it's a lazy 5 miles to the Midway Marina near Fulton.

    We tie up and Rosie and I go for a walk in the light rain, ending up at the marina restaurant.    Read more

  • 45NorthAmericas Great LoopTraveler
    Departing Clifton MarinaRiverside residences - this guy took subsidence precautionsRiverside residences - this guy didn'tThese folks built their dock while the river was running higherWe pass the downbound tow on the 'One'...We're past. His helm is hard to port to bring the rear of that tow over to the curve in the riverSavannah, TN. The house is probably fairly recent, built to look like an old plantation homestead.Another very 'southern plantation' outlook1I was so busy looking... I forgot to take a photo as we passed the Shiloh battlefieldEntering Pickwick Lock for a 40-ft lift to the lakeA rising Lock chamber raises all boats. This video is not speeded up...1Departing Pickwick Lock... our last major lift for the trip. It's all downhill from here.1A heron in troubleDomestic residences and autumn colour on Pickwick LakeArriving at the Grand Harbor Marina1The arrow marks our destination for the night45 North at rest on the fuel dock at Grand Harbor Marina1Showing the 'Tri-State Border'. The Grand Harbor Marina is at centre.

    Day 25: Clifton, TN, to Grand Harbor, MS

    October 27 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Our departure from Clifton is under leaden skies at 0745, but totally calm and the temp around 15C. It rained overnight and more is forecast for today, but we're not a sailboat and we'd rather have precip than puff.

    I'm thinking about the comparison between our beautiful weather conditions here and those of the last week in Otago and Southland in New Zealand, where a gale-force storm has blacked out the entire region and caused wind-driven havoc. We hope folks have a generator, a good fuel supply for the BBQ, and plenty of candles. Hundreds of power poles are down and lots of comms are out. Here's hoping for the most expedited restoration of power possible.

    We cruise south on a mirror-calm Tennessee River with little to do by gaze at the passing riverside residences and pass a couple of barge tows, one downbound and one upbound. At Pittsburgh Landing we encounter the Civil War battleground of Shiloh. Oops... I must apologise to our captain for a momentary gaffe; the 'War of Northern Aggression', I should have said.

    The weather is holding and the river is glassy. We negotiate the Pickwick Lock up into Pickwick Lake, and make for Grand Harbor. A friend of Prestons arrives at the dock with the replacement glass jug for the coffee maker (that I broke in the sink a week ago) and takes us into the village for a few necessaries. I'll cook lamb chops upstairs on the grill tonight, and Rosie will do fried onions, smashed spuds and brussel sprouts.    Read more

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