Day 63: Ilion to Brewerton

June 15. We're off the wall at Ilion at 0725 and head about 6 miles upriver to Lock 19, where once again, we're diverted off a diminishing Mohawk River into a broad man-made 'ditch' (see accompanyingЧитать далее
June 15. We're off the wall at Ilion at 0725 and head about 6 miles upriver to Lock 19, where once again, we're diverted off a diminishing Mohawk River into a broad man-made 'ditch' (see accompanying aerial image); we're back on the canal.
Today, we'll summit near the town of Rome--between Locks 20 and 21--at 420 ft, although travellers who continue through the western section to Buffalo and Niagra will summit there at 566 ft. From our highest point, we'll descend to cross Oneida Lake to Brewerton at around 360 ft, and tomorrow, weather on Lake Ontario permitting, we'll continue northward via the Oswego Canal.Читать далее
June 14, 55 miles. We're off the wall at Lock 12 at 0730. It's mild and there's been a misty rain, which stops just before we cast off. We motor up the Mohawk in calm conditions. At Lock 12, officially the Tribes Hill Lock, a plaque informs us that it was designated the James Shanahan Lock in 1989. In 1864, Shanahan--The New York State Superintendent of Canals 1878-97--had built the first bridge over the Hudson River at Albany.
Today we'll see something a little different of this modern-day Erie Canal; we'll be bypassing, by canal sections, portions of the Mohawk River that are un-navigable. This afternoon we'll enter Lock 18, and about 4 miles along a canal we'll re-enter the Mohawk and arrive at our destination.
We have a trouble-free cruise along the Erie. Locks are met on time (some have set times) and we negotiate the infamous section between Locks 16 and 17 without a hitch. Others are not so lucky; they arrive too late or too early, but it's all in the Waterway Guide and you have to be able to plan ahead. I'd say our smooth voyage has been 10% luck and 90% strategic preparation by Preston. We've a lot to thank him for, as we pass through the problem area that caused the much-delayed opening of the canal, and proceed towards our overnight stop at Ilion [ILL-yin].
The village of Ilion, NY, (pop about 7,600) is named after ancient Ilion (or Ilium), which is another name for the city of Troy, famous for its role in Homer's “Iliad”. The area that became Ilion was settled around 1725 and was previously known by names like German Flats, Morgan's Landing, and Remington's Corners. In 1843, when the community needed a name for a new post office, Eliphalet Remington, the founder of the Remington Arms Company declined to have the village named after himself. David D. Devoe, an admirer of Homer, suggested Ilion, and this name was eventually adopted. With the closure of the Remington factory, the future of the village of Ilion is doubtful.Читать далее
ПутешественникThis is the old New York Central Railroad "Water Level Route" mainline between NYC, Buffalo, and Chicago. This train is eastbound (southbound from Albany).
ПутешественникFlotsam at Lock 12 from recent flooding in the Mohawk and the canal. The coal train passes.
ПутешественникSo glad you finally got into the canal! I can't wait to see you get to my old backyard. My Aunt lived on the south bank in Gasport. We spent many summer days biking the towpaths and later canoeing the canal sections between Middleport & Tonawanda
ПутешественникUnfortunately, we can’t manage the western end. We’re too high. We’ll go out the Oswego Canal and then the Welland
Here's a series of general views around our experience since leaving Troy. Some are the creative work of others, especially Lorraine. There are several uncaptioned views of dams. These are why we have to negotiate Locks.Читать далее
June 13, 45 miles. Yahoo and yabba-dabba-doo! We're all up and buzzing by 0530. Water is topped up, power is pulled, lines are released, and we're off the dock as No. 1 of a pack (some going up the Champlain) and we're at the gate of our first Lock, Federal Dam, by 0645. it opens right on time, and we enter against the right-hand wall, followed by 5 others.
A brief further voyage up the Hudson ensues before we turn left at Waterford and line up behind 3 others for Lock E2, the first of the Waterford flight of 5 Locks in fairly quick succession. We enter, being No. 1 against the left-hand wall, and 5 vessels--all motor yachts--follow us in. If we thought this would all go rapidly, we are disabused of this notion when two young Coast Guard officers (from the Staten Island base) show up and proceed to board and inspect all of the vessels, 45 North being their first victim. We all have to dig out our passports and Preston his various licences, and this total process takes an hour and a half.
Once we're 'released', we move along to the next Lock and then the next, with 45 North being No. 1 in a squadron of 6 vessels. Numerous others will no doubt be following us as they wait to repeat this process. We newbies soon get the 'hang' of the procedure of grabbing or roping onto a Lock-wall side rope and waiting for the other vessels to enter behind us, going either to the left- or the right-hand wall. Preston had made an earnest effort to have us early in the queue at Waterford, but we have in fact, found ourselves as the first of a crowd of boaters chafing to get going on this newly-opened canal. We sally up the Erie with the others in line astern.
Our progress is good - the 'canal' now really the Mohawk River is a series of long, narrow lakes created by the dams we bypass via these Locks. As we pass under a couple of railroad bridges close to Schenectady [ Skin-ECK-t'dee], the westbound Amtrak Lake Shore Limited crosses exactly as we pass under (too quick for anyone to get a phone out, except Lorraine, who is up on the fly bridge) and another Amtrak train crosses a bridge ahead of us; we're unable to identify what service it might be. Schenectady resonates with me as it's the hometown of the American Locomotive Company (Alco) and I'm familiar with a lot of their product... both steam and diesel-electric. But we see nothing of this industry from the river.
A benefit of being No. 1 in the parade is evidenced at Lock No. E9, Rotterdam, where the lockmaster is having a problem with the mechanism that allows the water to flow from the high side into the Lock to fill it. He can only take vessels on the right-hand side, so we and two behind us get in and the other two vessels in the convoy have to cool their heals and await the next cycle.
As dusk approaches, we sally on. This is for a strategic reaason. Rain is forecast for the weekend and we want to get through the area that was recently badly affected by flooding, If we can put that section behind us before any further flooding occurs, we can keep moving even if the canal is again closed for repairs.
After almost 12 hours (8 hrs 40 min working) and a record 13 Locks in a day, we tie up at Lock 12, Tribes Hill, and get dinner on in the galley while Graeme and Preston grill our sossiges on the fly bridge.
Tomorrow we shall launch at around 0730 and again endeavour to remain ahead of the ratpack, but tonight we’re moored against the wall at Lock 12, on the generator. We’ll be gone in the morning before the Lock opens and the followers come through.
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ПутешественникThe next Northbound Lock is Champlain No. 1, but we're not going north. The immediate Southbound Lock is the first one we encountered off the dock at Troy - now 3.27 miles behind us. E3 will be our next Westbound Lock, about 1,500 ft ahead.
ПутешественникHad Preston never experienced a visit from the coast guard before? Was it not a usual thing?
ПутешественникNever. Always expected but hadn’t happened. I think they were taking the opportunity to inspect the crowd for the opening of the canal season while we were all in one place. All boats were inspected.
June 12. We awake to a bright, clear morning. I've let the data allowance on my eSIM run out, and once that's happened the plan cannot be topped up and has to be repurchased. This process did not go smoothly, and it was after midday before we could get into an Uber and head back down to Albany to visit the USS Slater destroyer escort museum. Preston's friend, Tim, is in charge of the ship, and he handed us to an extremely enthusiastic and competent tour guide (who was on USN destroyer escorts from 1953, before they became frigates). We went in and out and up and down, and even Jan handled the tween-decks ladders with aplomb.
After the Slater, we Ubered miles away to a specialist teahouse where we tea'd and had a lid. While there, I was able to pass on to the group the news that we'd be casting off in the morning and heading for the canal. That made the medicine go down even more smoothly. Everyone's excited now... sombreland is yesterday's news.
The canal authority have advised today that the pesky piece of 'red' on the recent map I reproduced here will go 'green' at 0800 tomorrow, so we intend to be off the dock asap after 0600 and up to our first lock, which is just a mile ahead of us on the Hudson, to get us past the Federal Dam (more 'weir' than dam) from where we can access the Erie at Watertown.
We hope to be early in tomorrow's queue and at Brewerton by Sunday or Monday. We eat on board while Preston goes where we went last night, to celebrate with spare ribs; a man of constant, impeccable, epicurean refinement.
Yabbida, yabbida... that's all for now, folks (PS: I'll add some of Graeme's photography here soon).Читать далее
11 June, 62 miles. It's a bright, clear, calm day with a temp around 22 deg C. We're off the wall in Rondoubt Creek at 0900, and in the company of a friend of Preston in Fleming 55 "Patriot", we motor out of the creek and into the Hudson for our run north. I might add a few extra images from yesterday before the day develops.
The day develops thusly; the breeze has arisen, and 45 North's Otto Pilot doesn't like dealing with it when it's on the stern. But the breeze and the tide are in our favour just now.
The forecast for the weekend, though, is very concerning. Several days of rain are expected in upstate NY (this out-of-season precipitation having made the news, lately) and we are motoring towards it. So, Troy is going to get wet within a day or two and the Erie will fill up again and might cause further flooding problems on top of those that are just being remediated now. This we do not need to hear; there is the chance that our expedition might become dead-in-the-water at Troy, and Preston might have no recourse other than to take the boat back to the Chesapeake... Norfolk, perhaps. In that sad case, we would find a way to continue west as best we could. Fingers, and all other things, crossed! But our mood is quietly sombre.
We motor past Albany (losing Patriot into the Albany Yacht Club), and on to Troy, where we're fast a little after 1600. A band is tuning up at a nearby bar, so we head off to see what's what. I've heard there's a very good BBQ restaurant and I can feel some baby-back spare ribs coming on. As to the immediate future, we'll do a 'Darryl Kerrigan' and put out some vibes. We find it difficult to believe that after traveling 150 miles upriver, we're still at sea level. The Hudson River as far as Troy is the world's longest marine estuary and is still affected by tidal flow at that distance.
And so ends Phase Two of our expedition; the Atlantic bays, ocean, and Hudson River to the start of the Erie Canal. Phase Three starts when we enter the Erie Canal system at Waterford and will end at Oswego when we emerge into Lake Ontario.Читать далее
ПутешественникOld US military arsenal on Pollepel Island. A MetroNorth train passes along the eastern shore
ПутешественникUS 202 (Rte 9W) rounds Jones Point, reminiscent of The Devil's Staircase on Lake Wakatipu or the Nevis Bluff in the Gibbston Valley
June 10, 57 miles. The weather is right down on the river, and rain showers come across... some of them heavy, some less so. We have a lazy breakfast and watch another bLooper head out. We're in no rush - our accommodation upriver is secured and we'll have a following tide. A superyacht, The Wolf, has come in overnight.
Between showers, we get off the slip and are exiting the marina at 1000. The mood on board is like our hull... buoyant.
We're soon passing places we've become familiar with from the land-side; Bear Mt Bridge, West Point, Cold Spring, and more. Fast Amtrak and metroNorth passenger trains pass on our right-hand side and slower freights--commonly unit trains of auto racks--pass in both directions on our left. No-one seeks to count the cars on the freight trains.
We sail on, past the US Military Academy at West point and past shoreside towns and large industrial activity. Empty fuel barge 'tows' pass going down-river for another load. The showers come and go, but as we progress, the cloud lifts a bit and the day is brighter.
Eventually, we turn to port and make for the entrance to Kingston's Rondout Creek. We're tied up almost 'in town' by 1600. Kingston is yet another historic upstate NY town. Rondout Creek is also where the old, and now defunct, Delaware & Hudson Canal terminated.
Preston goes to meet the owner of another Fleming tied up for the night, and we three make our way up the street to see what's what. We eventually find our way to the Savonas Italian Ristorante for dinner.Читать далее
ПутешественникHighland Falls RV Park & Marina, plus unused passenger depot on CSX track
ПутешественникYay, must be good to finally be moving on. Hope things go well for you from now on.
June 9. It's an overcast and showery morning, not cold. We decide to take a drive up the eastern side of the Hudson (which cannot be seen for most of the 30-min journey) to another quirky town called Cold Spring.
It remains showery and a bit humid as we explore the Main Street to check on which draperies and cafes are open on a Monday (quite a few, it turns out). We've checked out the old railway station, which is now a restaurant, and are standing on a path, separated from the double-track main line by a shoulder-high mesh fence, when an Amtrak express comes past at about 70 mph, a few metres from us. Still, Graeme gets a shot away!
We had lunch, some shopping was conducted, and we left for Croton to shop for provisions and to return the rental car after 17 days. "Return the rental car... why?" I hear you exclaim! Yes... it is my strategy that if I end the car rental then the gods will have to notice and be forced to give us good news about the Erie Canal.
In fact, the news from the Canal Authority is less-than-helpful, but Preston and I decide, nevertheless, that we'll take whatever chance we need to take and leave Croton tomorrow to move upriver. Preston has us booked Tuesday night at Kingston then for 3 nights (if we need them) at Albany, so that we can claim a place in whatever queue might exist of vessels waiting for the canal to open.
Preston had earlier given us a big slab of frozen marinated steak of indeterminate quality, sourced from his favourite butcher in Traverse City about 8 months ago. I thawed it out, cubed it, added red wine, vegetables, and many other condiments and accoutrements, and made a slow-cooked ragu of sorts. We all thought it was pretty good... served with carrots, spuds, blanched asparagus, and peas. Ice cream and strawberries was served as a lid. I added some lavender syrup (that I'd bought at the Muscoot Farmers Market) to the ice cream as an experiment. It wasn't outstanding, and I'll probably not repeat it. The syrup may yet find its way into a cold prosecco docktail.
After 17 days and 18 nights here, I'm going to miss the trains running past the marina--some at high speed--and the daily parade of heritage paint schemes on some of the locomotives. I may have to play train sounds on my phone at night just to get to sleep.Читать далее
ПутешественникThanks Terry. We're very happy. Graeme will write sometime and explain that overhead conveyor system. But you can see the skip that hangs from the overhead rail.
ПутешественникThe 35.97m/118' motor yacht 'The Wolf' was built by SanLorenzo in Italy at their Viareggio shipyard and she was completed in 2023. The vessel will comfortably accommodate 10 guests in 5 suites, and she can accommodate 6 crew. Construction is a GRP hull and superstructure, with teak decks, and power is twin Caterpillar (C32 Acert [electronic control]) 1,622hp engines, enabling cruise at 14 knots, with a maximum speed of 18 knots and a range of up to 3,000 nautical miles from 32,000 lit fuel tanks. Her water tanks store around 4,000 lit of fresh water.
Jun 8. A clear, calm morning, around 16 deg C. Very high cloud layer, probably the mist lifting.
The Canal news is a little bit gloomy, as they've also had some of the heavy rain we experienced yesterday, and the water levels are up... not necessarily a good thing, especially for a canal that's been undergoing repairs.
Today we'll go out, about a 40-min drive, to Muscoot Farm. Well, we had an 'In' day yesterday, so it's an 'Out' day today. No doubt we'll return with pics, They may or may not be as good as these...
https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/muscoot-farm-ka…
Muscoot Farm done and dusted. Good to compare the things we could compare and good to see a lot of families with youngsters experiencing the farmyard and the animals and fowl. I thought the old overhead bucket-way system for disposing of the milking shed effluent quite fascinating.
We came home with home-made empanadas and other foodsuffs, plus some craft beer and a bourbon aged in walnut syrup casks.
I got stuck into creating a casserole when we got back to the boat. Later, we got the Aussie comedy film, The Castle, up on the big screen and made Preston watch it. He's now a fan of the film!Читать далее
ПутешественникHi Terry. See the narrative for a description… and a couple of the images 😊
ПутешественникMost Aussies and Kiwis won't know that there's a supermarket chain in the US called 'Piggly Wiggly'. yes... don't laugh!
Jun 7. We awaken late from a great partee last night. I hope we didn't annoy other boaters in the marinara too much. There's thundery weather forecast, so we decide to stay close to the boat. Preston sallies forth again, to see how the railroads are running but we take it easy on board as the thundery clouds roll in. We're playing Rummikub when the downpour hits, but we've had left-overs for lunch and are in no pain. The sun bursts out later.
We're buoyed [BOO-ee'd?] by the fact that we expect to get moving upriver on Tuesday. I have extended the rental car until Monday afternoon.
That is all...Читать далее
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An aerial of Lock 16 via (via public media) looking south back down the Mohawk River. Here, we're diverted away from an un-navigable section of the river into another section of man-made canal.
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The rest of the climb, from lake Ontario to Lake Erie, will be via the Welland Canal.
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East of Lock 20 the water flows to the Atlantic via the Mohawk and Hudson Rivers. West of here, the water flows to the Atlantic via the St Lawrence Seaway.