Day 45: At Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–2 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
It's May 28. Preston headed off very early this morning--Graeme drove him to the station--to catch a train to Harlem from where he can get across to La Guardia and catch a direct flight to Traverse City. We expect him back on Saturday. One critical portion of the Erie Canal is still not open (due to remedial works being conducted, see image below), so we remain here at Croton for the time being.
It started raining around midday--a gentle, silent rain-- and continued into the evening. We had a lazy day. I caught up with some tasks on my laptop and the others went for an exploratory drive around town. In the evening, we attended an 'open-mic' night that Lorraine had found was happening at one of the village's cafes. Interesting. Lorraine tried to get me up and recite a Banjo Patterson poem (I had previously refused to sing a song!), but no-one had sourced the words for me, so I was forced to decline.
We might go for a train ride tomorrow. Czytaj więcej
Day 46: At Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–2 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
It's May 29, and we remain moored here. I'll finish this Footprint later, but I'll start with a couple of Lorraine's photos and one of mine.
It was a bit of a wonky day. Low cloud, damp, not really cold. We trained down to NYC with a vague intention of taking the train out through Long Island to Montauk at the end of the line... probably for lunch. Once at Grand Central Terminal we were confronted with the brutal reality that the Long Island Railroad was NOT MetroNorth or the MTA. Our MTA 'OMNY' (OMNY, get it?) card did not work on the LIRR and anyway, the trains out there only ran in the morning and evening commuter periods. So that idea was out and we retired to Luke's Lobster & Seafood for brunch. Jan and I had 'the best lobster rolls in New York'. I thought those from the Oyster Place at the Chelsea Market were better.
Then we caught the subway shuttle up to Times Square to see what shows we could get matinee tickets to, and found somethng called "Singfeld - An Unauthorised Musical Parody About Nothing" to be the only realistic opportunity. So we got 4 seats together and walked up Broadway to a wee hole-in-the-wall place called The Theatre Centre. I've long been a fan of Jerry Seinfeld and his TV series, so I was able to comprehend the excellent casting and the various mannerisms, foibles, and idiosyncrasies of the cast members and their antics; the others not so much. But they did appreciate the performance and creativity of the minimal sets.
Following the show, we wandered back to Times Square--wasting some time looking in various tourist outlets for the luggage Jan wanted before it became obvious that we were looking in the wrong outlets--before catching the subway back to Grand Central Terminal--a 3-minute ride--where we had dinner at the Oyster Bar (see Lorraine's photo) and made our way to Track 37 for a non-stopper (that stopped at Harlem!) back to Croton/Harmon.
A not too exciting sort of a day. But I had some tequila on the boat... and it's 5 o'clock somewhere. Czytaj więcej

PodróżnikI am catching up reading your posts over the past week. Fergus your detail tells the story and photos great. Looks like you saw alot of NYC. Shame about the delay but you seen to making the most of it.
Day 47: At Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–2 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
It's May 30. Today, we'll make a trip across to White Plains to go shopping for luggage for Jan. The baggage handlers at Houston managed to mishandle her suiitcase, and the zip burst open. Lucky for her she'd fitted a strap around it before travelling.
So we drove across to Bedford Hills where Jan found her luggage and some clothing articles. We then went to a local diner (the real deal!) for lunch, then drove down to White Plains in the hope that I might get my suitcase handle repaired. T'was in vain. I may have to do it myself if I can find a suitable jewellers screwdriver. We'll be here at COH into next week.
We returned to the marina... some of us joyful and some less so. But it's 5 o'clock somewhere! Czytaj więcej
Day 48: STILL at Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–2 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
May 31 . Awoke to heavy rain today; our first for this expedition. But we were expecting it... '100% chance of rain' said the forecast.
Latest from the authorities;
"Notice to Mariners
New York State Canal System Update
Map Link Correction
May 30, 2025
The New York State Canal Corporation today announced the following update:
Critical repairs to the Rocky Rift movable dam west of Lock E-16 in St. Johnsville are expected to be completed this weekend. Once the dam is operational again, the Canal Corporation will raise the navigation pool between Lock E-16 and Lock E-17 in Little Falls. The pool will be filled slowly to monitor how the earthen embankment reacts as it holds water at the normal navigation level.
If additional work is required on the embankment, the temporary closure of this section may be extended beyond the original estimate of June 11 - 18. More information will be shared after the water level is raised and monitored.
Additional work on the Rocky Rift movable dam will occur later this season. Additional information about those repairs will be shared in advance of the work."
When Preston returns to the boat later today, we'll have a meeting of the committee. Meanwhile, to reborrow a Buffetism, it's 5 o'cock somewhere...
We decide to go out for Greek, so it's off to the Piato Greek Kitchen. we order dolmades (of course), saganaki, lemon potatoes, moussaka, loukaniko, and (for Graeme) the ,pièce de résistance... New Zealand lamb chops (marinated and cooked a wee bit rare). Czytaj więcej

PodróżnikHave you treated everyone to our VIA Rail special off The Canadian??
Day 49: STIIIILLLL at Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–7 cze, Stany Zjednoczone
June 1. Sunny this morning, with some scattered high cloud. 11 deg at 0700, going to 19 today, according to Graeme. The MetroNorth/Amtrak main line goes past the marinara and Preston and I have amused ourselves for a while clocking the historical liveries that have been applied to some of the big GE Genesis P-type locomotives, paying homage to the railroads that originally ran through this area. However, that's getting a bit old now, so I need to think of something else to do.
Oh, I know... there's a steam railroad museum over at Essex, CT. Well, it's not a museum as much as an operating steam railway with locomotives, passenger cars, and all sorts of rollingstock being renovated, refurbished or just plain serviced and maintained for running. We made the 2-hr drive over there, stopping in Westhaven for an early lunch at an authentic little diner we found off the Interstate.
The others took themselves off into this quaint and historic little town, born in 1664, while I 'ran into' some workers and was given a cook's tour of the locomotive and passenger car facility, taken to the office to sign a waiver, and shovelled (courtesy of an earnest and forthright young Asst CMO) onto the footplate of the steam locomotive running the 10-mile round trip with 4 passenger cars. The locomotive engineer who hosted me onboard also worked back in Baltimore at the B&O Museum I'd been to with Preston, and informed me he was the last engineman to run the 1832 'grasshopper' locomotive, "Atlantic" (see previous Footprint 32A) prior to it being sent permanently for display in the B&O Museum roundhouse. so, much discussion ensued with he and his fireman.
We were pleased to have encountered and experienced historic Essex, CT, but ours wasn't the only successful day. Preston had trained up the Hudson valley to watch a grandson play in a US Tennis Association tournament... which the young man won outright! Czytaj więcej

Podróżnik
No. 3025 is a China Railways SY-Class (abbreviation for Shàng Yóu, meaning "Aim High") 2-8-2 "Mikado" type steam locomotive. It was built in July 1989 by the Tangshan Locomotive & Rolling Stock Works and it was exported to the Knox & Kane Railroad in the US for tourist train service between Marienville, Kane, and Mount Jewett, Pennsylvania. In 2004, the locomotive was in storage following a decline in ridership on the K&K. In March 2008, it sustained heavy damage when the shed it was stored in burned down. In October that year, it was sold at auction to the Valley Railroad who shipped it to their Essex, CT, location and rebuilt it to cosmetically resemble a New Haven locomotive. Renumbered as No. 3025, the locomotive returned to service in 2011 and began hauling tourist trains for the VALE.
Day 50: At Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–2 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
It's June 2 and it's a lovely calm, sunny morning; going to 23 deg, I believe. We are warned to enjoy the last 'cool' day for a while.
Oh no... the onset of summer! How are we going to cope?
I've got a couple of shots from Preston of two of the 'Heritage' liveries applied to MetroNorth Genesis P-42 locomotives. They're probably vinyl wrap graphics, but it's nice to see the railroads acknowledging that element of their ancestry. Still, I'd say that 'Genesis-spotting' at Croton has now reached its limit. I no longer even hear them throttling up as they head up the valley.
The marinara is starting to get busy as bLoopers come and go... no doubt some jockeying for an early position should the short notice of the canal reopening that Preston expects, be received. We heard this morning that they've reopened the Champlain Canal (which runs north from Albany and connects to Lake Champlain and eventually the St Lawrence Seaway near Montreal), so some Canadian bLoopers are on the move too. But we're staying put for the moment.
Preston heads off on Amtrak to clock some train-time, Graeme--who has cancelled his eye appointment in Rochester, since our schedule is uncertain--secures a new one with a specialist in Mt Vernon, NY. This is fantastic news! We drive to the supermarket and purchase the doings for a picnic lunch, which we then take up the Croton Gorge to the New Croton Dam. We were unable to get near the place on Memorial Day weekend but today is no problem. We join several Latino family groups who are cooking and playing games in the park. This must be the worker's day off.
We return to the ship via the supermarket with the doings for Ferg to make an authentic Caesar salad. No American diner or restaurant I've been in has been able to make a REAL Caesar salad--even though they invariably include them on their voluminous menus--so I'll do it myself (although I'll be swapping anchovies for salmon).
Someone came by and invited us along to the E dock at 1800 for docktails. The invitation may have come a little late for us to be able to join them.
It seems the afternoon temperature has reached 27 deg. Czytaj więcej

Podróżnik
The reservoir is 20 miles long, its capacity is 30 trillion gallons, the area of its watershed is 360.5 sq miles.
Day 51: We're at Croton-On-Hudson, still
23 maj–2 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
June 3. To quote Donna Simpson in the Waifs' soulful song. But we have serious business today. Preston is training off to check up on the state of play with the MetroNorth network and we're heading down-town a bit to Mt Vernon where Graeme has secured an appointment for the attention his retina problem requires. It was originally at Rochester on Lake Ontario, but the Erie Canal delay has changed that, and Graeme has found a retina specialist down near the Bronx who will do what he needs. What joy!
But in the meantime, a lady--Annie--comes along the dock and introduces herself. She lives nearby, with her retired policeman husband, and has been out walking and seen our NZ flag. She's a Sydney girl, originally, and we have a great chat. After all her years in the US, she has managed not to adopt (or have effected) the American accent, and that impresses us. Just a ridgi-didgi Aussie gal. We swap many stories of our 'backpacking' days o/s in the mid-70s.
But soon we have to head off to Mt Vernon. We drive down--a 30-min drive--suss the place out, and because we've heaps of time before his appointment Lorraine suggests we head over to the the New York Botanical Gardens and have our picnic lunch. So we do that (along with hundreds of other visitors, we soon find), and having eaten we queue up for the 30-min 'tram' ride around the gardens. This is worth the $10/person, and we enjoy the current focus on Vincent Van Gogh and his garden-inspired art. Once done we head for the car and return to Fleetwood (Mt Vernon) for Graeme's appointment. We haven't done the gardens justice, but we know what to expect if we ever return. We get Graeme to his appointment, and Jan and I amuse ourselves meanwhile, and only have to do that for an hour before Graeme emerges with the procedure done! They're not THAT streamlined in olde Dunedin!
We are all a VERY happy crew as we drive back to Croton. We're just getting our home-grown pizzas organised when Anne turns up with a bag of home-made Anzac biscuits (we can say 'biscuits' when we're among friends), tied up with a green and gold ribbon. Was there ever anything ever so sweet? I think not. Let's hope we're here long enough to have Anne and Owen over to the ship for dinner.
The Anzac biscuits are more than delicious... Czytaj więcej
Day 52: Imprisoned at Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–4 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Imprisoned? Not really, when locals like Anne Brosnan come and greet you, bring cookies, and information about what to do around the area; not that we've been lost for something to do thus far. But if these days at COH were to wear on, we now have extra opportunities to fill in our days.
Today, Preston is up at his usual 'sparrow's' and today is off to Albany to catch up with an old mate who is overdue for his attention. We, though, are off to Kent, CT, to visit another quirky, historic town and a vintage machinery museum; we expect it to be about a 2-hr trip to get there, if we stop.
Well, that's about what it took, with a stop at one of Connecticut’s historical covered bridges. Bull’s Bridge dates originally from the 1700s and the present one from 1862. The covered style of construction was partly for structural strength (iron ore and pig-iron was originally transported across this bridge) and partly for protection of the deck from degradation due to weather.
Arriving at Kent, we lunched at a main street café and left the girls to explore the retail while Graeme and I continued out to the Connecticut Antique Machinery Assn Museum, where we dallied for a couple of happy hours. Returning to town, we rescued the gals, had a cold drink, and hit the road for home, stopping for dinner at an excellent Indian restaurant once there.
And thus ended Day 52.
(PS: There is encouraging news that repairs in the Erie Canal have been completed, and they’re flooding the pond. Hopefully it won’t leak, and we can make a move from here. We’re even thinking we might crank the Cummins’ and get going by Saturday. Preston is on the phone and computer, so our breath we bait as we sit and wait.) Czytaj więcej
Day 53: At Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–5 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
June 5. Another great day! We have a quiet 'administrative' day, getting stuff done on the computer and a bit of shopping for a dinner partee tomorrow with some new-found friends (they found us, thanks to our KiwiOzzie flag). OK, Ok, it's a NZ flag... but forriners don't know the diff, do they?
The news from the NY State Canal Corp is better. They've completed repair works and are filling the navigation pool. We'll know more from them on Monday, but in the meantime we MAY start to move north on Saturday. Fingers, legs, eyes, and earlobes are all crossed.
Today we blew the rust off the injectors and moved the boat over to the fuel dock for a black water pump-out and Preston washed us down. Czytaj więcej
Day 54: At Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–7 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
June 6. Another day, another $250 marinara dollars. But as Ned Kelly famously said (as they placed the noose around his neck), "Such is life", and I have enough Oirish in me to understand... it is what it is.
We remain hopeful, though, as the latest from the Canal Corp is positive enough for Preston to decide we could make a move up-river on Tuesday. To that end, we're booked into the marinara at Kingston for two nights (the second night is to cover for contingencies), proceeding to Troy thereafter, ready to leap into the Waterford flight of locks as soon as a gap in the bLooper lineup presents. But it's still early for bLoopers, maybe there won't be so many yet. We're hopeful. The Canadians have been able to get up the Champlain for the last few days.
Anyhow, it's going to be a fine, hot day, so we decide to drive up to Poughkeepsie [say Puh-KIP-see] to see what we'd see were we to have to moor there. We duly do that, having an early lunch at Alex's Restaurant--a wonderful olde-style diner in downtown Poughkeepsie--that would have fitted right in with Arlo Guthrie' song. Once again, seeing homemade cornbeef hash on the menu, I can go no further!
Following our meal, we drive to check two of the marinas near town, then head out to find a shopping plaza for the girls, after which we turned for home. We had a rock-solid schedule to get back to Croton by 1500, so we could commence with meal preparations for a dinner partee tonight. Regrettably, we could explore historic Poughkeepsie no further, or the Walkway Over The Hudson; we had to leave.
Ex-Sydney girl, Anne (who lives in Croton and who made herself known to us when she noticed our NZ flag a-flying), and her husband, retired NYC plainclothes, undercover, drug-busting cop were to come aboard for dinner, and they did... and what a riotous evening we had, swapping stories! We prevailed upon Preston to remain aboard and join us and were very glad he did... not least to help manage the BBQ on the fly-bridge. A lot of the success of this device's output is down to Preston's expertise with it
Anne, an astute lady of advanced culinarian virtuosity, bought a homemade New York cheesecake and French wine (and Vegemite and golden syrup). Husband Owen, a native of South Bronx (and at one time, based out of the famous "Fort Apache"), drank beer... and who could blame him for that.
This generous couple decided around midnight that they should take their leave... about two hours too early for me. But, to be fair, they DID have a lengthy floating dock to negotiate. Czytaj więcej

Podróżnik
The Walkway over the Hudson (also known as the Poughkeepsie Bridge, Poughkeepsie Railroad Bridge, Poughkeepsie–Highland Railroad Bridge, and High Bridge) is a steel cantilever bridge spanning the Hudson River between Poughkeepsie, New York, on the east bank and Highland, New York, on the west bank. Built as a double track railroad bridge, it was completed on January 1, 1889, and formed part of the Maybrook Line of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. It was taken out of service on May 8, 1974, after it was damaged by a sleeper fire.
Day 55: At Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–8 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Jun 7. We awaken late from a great partee last night. I hope we didn't annoy other boaters in the marinara too much. There's thundery weather forecast, so we decide to stay close to the boat. Preston sallies forth again, to see how the railroads are running but we take it easy on board as the thundery clouds roll in. We're playing Rummikub when the downpour hits, but we've had left-overs for lunch and are in no pain. The sun bursts out later.
We're buoyed [BOO-ee'd?] by the fact that we expect to get moving upriver on Tuesday. I have extended the rental car until Monday afternoon.
That is all... Czytaj więcej
Day 56: At Croton-On-Hudson
23 maj–9 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Jun 8. A clear, calm morning, around 16 deg C. Very high cloud layer, probably the mist lifting.
The Canal news is a little bit gloomy, as they've also had some of the heavy rain we experienced yesterday, and the water levels are up... not necessarily a good thing, especially for a canal that's been undergoing repairs.
Today we'll go out, about a 40-min drive, to Muscoot Farm. Well, we had an 'In' day yesterday, so it's an 'Out' day today. No doubt we'll return with pics, They may or may not be as good as these...
https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/muscoot-farm-ka…
Muscoot Farm done and dusted. Good to compare the things we could compare and good to see a lot of families with youngsters experiencing the farmyard and the animals and fowl. I thought the old overhead bucket-way system for disposing of the milking shed effluent quite fascinating.
We came home with home-made empanadas and other foodsuffs, plus some craft beer and a bourbon aged in walnut syrup casks.
I got stuck into creating a casserole when we got back to the boat. Later, we got the Aussie comedy film, The Castle, up on the big screen and made Preston watch it. He's now a fan of the film! Czytaj więcej

PodróżnikHi Terry. See the narrative for a description… and a couple of the images 😊
Day 57: At Croton-On-Hudson (our last?)
23 maj–10 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
June 9. It's an overcast and showery morning, not cold. We decide to take a drive up the eastern side of the Hudson (which cannot be seen for most of the 30-min journey) to another quirky town called Cold Spring.
It remains showery and a bit humid as we explore the Main Street to check on which draperies and cafes are open on a Monday (quite a few, it turns out). We've checked out the old railway station, which is now a restaurant, and are standing on a path, separated from the double-track main line by a shoulder-high mesh fence, when an Amtrak express comes past at about 70 mph, a few metres from us. Still, Graeme gets a shot away!
We had lunch, some shopping was conducted, and we left for Croton to shop for provisions and to return the rental car after 17 days. "Return the rental car... why?" I hear you exclaim! Yes... it is my strategy that if I end the car rental then the gods will have to notice and be forced to give us good news about the Erie Canal.
In fact, the news from the Canal Authority is less-than-helpful, but Preston and I decide, nevertheless, that we'll take whatever chance we need to take and leave Croton tomorrow to move upriver. Preston has us booked Tuesday night at Kingston then for 3 nights (if we need them) at Albany, so that we can claim a place in whatever queue might exist of vessels waiting for the canal to open.
Preston had earlier given us a big slab of frozen marinated steak of indeterminate quality, sourced from his favourite butcher in Traverse City about 8 months ago. I thawed it out, cubed it, added red wine, vegetables, and many other condiments and accoutrements, and made a slow-cooked ragu of sorts. We all thought it was pretty good... served with carrots, spuds, blanched asparagus, and peas. Ice cream and strawberries was served as a lid. I added some lavender syrup (that I'd bought at the Muscoot Farmers Market) to the ice cream as an experiment. It wasn't outstanding, and I'll probably not repeat it. The syrup may yet find its way into a cold prosecco docktail.
After 17 days and 18 nights here, I'm going to miss the trains running past the marina--some at high speed--and the daily parade of heritage paint schemes on some of the locomotives. I may have to play train sounds on my phone at night just to get to sleep. Czytaj więcej

PodróżnikThanks Terry. We're very happy. Graeme will write sometime and explain that overhead conveyor system. But you can see the skip that hangs from the overhead rail.

Podróżnik
The 35.97m/118' motor yacht 'The Wolf' was built by SanLorenzo in Italy at their Viareggio shipyard and she was completed in 2023. The vessel will comfortably accommodate 10 guests in 5 suites, and she can accommodate 6 crew. Construction is a GRP hull and superstructure, with teak decks, and power is twin Caterpillar (C32 Acert [electronic control]) 1,622hp engines, enabling cruise at 14 knots, with a maximum speed of 18 knots and a range of up to 3,000 nautical miles from 32,000 lit fuel tanks. Her water tanks store around 4,000 lit of fresh water.
Day 58: Croton-On-Hudson to Kingston
23 maj–10 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
June 10, 57 miles. The weather is right down on the river, and rain showers come across... some of them heavy, some less so. We have a lazy breakfast and watch another bLooper head out. We're in no rush - our accommodation upriver is secured and we'll have a following tide. A superyacht, The Wolf, has come in overnight.
Between showers, we get off the slip and are exiting the marina at 1000. The mood on board is like our hull... buoyant.
We're soon passing places we've become familiar with from the land-side; Bear Mt Bridge, West Point, Cold Spring, and more. Fast Amtrak and metroNorth passenger trains pass on our right-hand side and slower freights--commonly unit trains of auto racks--pass in both directions on our left. No-one seeks to count the cars on the freight trains.
We sail on, past the US Military Academy at West point and past shoreside towns and large industrial activity. Empty fuel barge 'tows' pass going down-river for another load. The showers come and go, but as we progress, the cloud lifts a bit and the day is brighter.
Eventually, we turn to port and make for the entrance to Kingston's Rondout Creek. We're tied up almost 'in town' by 1600. Kingston is yet another historic upstate NY town. Rondout Creek is also where the old, and now defunct, Delaware & Hudson Canal terminated.
Preston goes to meet the owner of another Fleming tied up for the night, and we three make our way up the street to see what's what. We eventually find our way to the Savonas Italian Ristorante for dinner. Czytaj więcej
Day 59: Kingston to Troy
10–11 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
11 June, 62 miles. It's a bright, clear, calm day with a temp around 22 deg C. We're off the wall in Rondoubt Creek at 0900, and in the company of a friend of Preston in Fleming 55 "Patriot", we motor out of the creek and into the Hudson for our run north. I might add a few extra images from yesterday before the day develops.
The day develops thusly; the breeze has arisen, and 45 North's Otto Pilot doesn't like dealing with it when it's on the stern. But the breeze and the tide are in our favour just now.
The forecast for the weekend, though, is very concerning. Several days of rain are expected in upstate NY (this out-of-season precipitation having made the news, lately) and we are motoring towards it. So, Troy is going to get wet within a day or two and the Erie will fill up again and might cause further flooding problems on top of those that are just being remediated now. This we do not need to hear; there is the chance that our expedition might become dead-in-the-water at Troy, and Preston might have no recourse other than to take the boat back to the Chesapeake... Norfolk, perhaps. In that sad case, we would find a way to continue west as best we could. Fingers, and all other things, crossed! But our mood is quietly sombre.
We motor past Albany (losing Patriot into the Albany Yacht Club), and on to Troy, where we're fast a little after 1600. A band is tuning up at a nearby bar, so we head off to see what's what. I've heard there's a very good BBQ restaurant and I can feel some baby-back spare ribs coming on. As to the immediate future, we'll do a 'Darryl Kerrigan' and put out some vibes. We find it difficult to believe that after traveling 150 miles upriver, we're still at sea level. The Hudson River as far as Troy is the world's longest marine estuary and is still affected by tidal flow at that distance.
And so ends Phase Two of our expedition; the Atlantic bays, ocean, and Hudson River to the start of the Erie Canal. Phase Three starts when we enter the Erie Canal system at Waterford and will end at Oswego when we emerge into Lake Ontario. Czytaj więcej
Day 60: At Troy, NY
11–12 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
June 12. We awake to a bright, clear morning. I've let the data allowance on my eSIM run out, and once that's happened the plan cannot be topped up and has to be repurchased. This process did not go smoothly, and it was after midday before we could get into an Uber and head back down to Albany to visit the USS Slater destroyer escort museum. Preston's friend, Tim, is in charge of the ship, and he handed us to an extremely enthusiastic and competent tour guide (who was on USN destroyer escorts from 1953, before they became frigates). We went in and out and up and down, and even Jan handled the tween-decks ladders with aplomb.
After the Slater, we Ubered miles away to a specialist teahouse where we tea'd and had a lid. While there, I was able to pass on to the group the news that we'd be casting off in the morning and heading for the canal. That made the medicine go down even more smoothly. Everyone's excited now... sombreland is yesterday's news.
The canal authority have advised today that the pesky piece of 'red' on the recent map I reproduced here will go 'green' at 0800 tomorrow, so we intend to be off the dock asap after 0600 and up to our first lock, which is just a mile ahead of us on the Hudson, to get us past the Federal Dam (more 'weir' than dam) from where we can access the Erie at Watertown.
We hope to be early in tomorrow's queue and at Brewerton by Sunday or Monday. We eat on board while Preston goes where we went last night, to celebrate with spare ribs; a man of constant, impeccable, epicurean refinement.
Yabbida, yabbida... that's all for now, folks (PS: I'll add some of Graeme's photography here soon). Czytaj więcej
Day 61: Erie Canal - Troy to Tribes Hill
13–14 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
June 13, 45 miles. Yahoo and yabba-dabba-doo! We're all up and buzzing by 0530. Water is topped up, power is pulled, lines are released, and we're off the dock as No. 1 of a pack (some going up the Champlain) and we're at the gate of our first Lock, Federal Dam, by 0645. it opens right on time, and we enter against the right-hand wall, followed by 5 others.
A brief further voyage up the Hudson ensues before we turn left at Waterford and line up behind 3 others for Lock E2, the first of the Waterford flight of 5 Locks in fairly quick succession. We enter, being No. 1 against the left-hand wall, and 5 vessels--all motor yachts--follow us in. If we thought this would all go rapidly, we are disabused of this notion when two young Coast Guard officers (from the Staten Island base) show up and proceed to board and inspect all of the vessels, 45 North being their first victim. We all have to dig out our passports and Preston his various licences, and this total process takes an hour and a half.
Once we're 'released', we move along to the next Lock and then the next, with 45 North being No. 1 in a squadron of 6 vessels. Numerous others will no doubt be following us as they wait to repeat this process. We newbies soon get the 'hang' of the procedure of grabbing or roping onto a Lock-wall side rope and waiting for the other vessels to enter behind us, going either to the left- or the right-hand wall. Preston had made an earnest effort to have us early in the queue at Waterford, but we have in fact, found ourselves as the first of a crowd of boaters chafing to get going on this newly-opened canal. We sally up the Erie with the others in line astern.
Our progress is good - the 'canal' now really the Mohawk River is a series of long, narrow lakes created by the dams we bypass via these Locks. As we pass under a couple of railroad bridges close to Schenectady [ Skin-ECK-t'dee], the westbound Amtrak Lake Shore Limited crosses exactly as we pass under (too quick for anyone to get a phone out, except Lorraine, who is up on the fly bridge) and another Amtrak train crosses a bridge ahead of us; we're unable to identify what service it might be. Schenectady resonates with me as it's the hometown of the American Locomotive Company (Alco) and I'm familiar with a lot of their product... both steam and diesel-electric. But we see nothing of this industry from the river.
A benefit of being No. 1 in the parade is evidenced at Lock No. E9, Rotterdam, where the lockmaster is having a problem with the mechanism that allows the water to flow from the high side into the Lock to fill it. He can only take vessels on the right-hand side, so we and two behind us get in and the other two vessels in the convoy have to cool their heals and await the next cycle.
As dusk approaches, we sally on. This is for a strategic reaason. Rain is forecast for the weekend and we want to get through the area that was recently badly affected by flooding, If we can put that section behind us before any further flooding occurs, we can keep moving even if the canal is again closed for repairs.
After almost 12 hours (8 hrs 40 min working) and a record 13 Locks in a day, we tie up at Lock 12, Tribes Hill, and get dinner on in the galley while Graeme and Preston grill our sossiges on the fly bridge.
Tomorrow we shall launch at around 0730 and again endeavour to remain ahead of the ratpack, but tonight we’re moored against the wall at Lock 12, on the generator. We’ll be gone in the morning before the Lock opens and the followers come through.
😈😈😇 Czytaj więcej

Podróżnik
The next Northbound Lock is Champlain No. 1, but we're not going north. The immediate Southbound Lock is the first one we encountered off the dock at Troy - now 3.27 miles behind us. E3 will be our next Westbound Lock, about 1,500 ft ahead.

PodróżnikHad Preston never experienced a visit from the coast guard before? Was it not a usual thing?

PodróżnikNever. Always expected but hadn’t happened. I think they were taking the opportunity to inspect the crowd for the opening of the canal season while we were all in one place. All boats were inspected.
An album of Locking images
14 czerwca, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
Here's a series of general views around our experience since leaving Troy. Some are the creative work of others, especially Lorraine. There are several uncaptioned views of dams. These are why we have to negotiate Locks. Czytaj więcej
Day 62: Tribes Hill (Lock 12) to Ilion
14–15 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
June 14, 55 miles. We're off the wall at Lock 12 at 0730. It's mild and there's been a misty rain, which stops just before we cast off. We motor up the Mohawk in calm conditions. At Lock 12, officially the Tribes Hill Lock, a plaque informs us that it was designated the James Shanahan Lock in 1989. In 1864, Shanahan--The New York State Superintendent of Canals 1878-97--had built the first bridge over the Hudson River at Albany.
Today we'll see something a little different of this modern-day Erie Canal; we'll be bypassing, by canal sections, portions of the Mohawk River that are un-navigable. This afternoon we'll enter Lock 18, and about 4 miles along a canal we'll re-enter the Mohawk and arrive at our destination.
We have a trouble-free cruise along the Erie. Locks are met on time (some have set times) and we negotiate the infamous section between Locks 16 and 17 without a hitch. Others are not so lucky; they arrive too late or too early, but it's all in the Waterway Guide and you have to be able to plan ahead. I'd say our smooth voyage has been 10% luck and 90% strategic preparation by Preston. We've a lot to thank him for, as we pass through the problem area that caused the much-delayed opening of the canal, and proceed towards our overnight stop at Ilion [ILL-yin].
The village of Ilion, NY, (pop about 7,600) is named after ancient Ilion (or Ilium), which is another name for the city of Troy, famous for its role in Homer's “Iliad”. The area that became Ilion was settled around 1725 and was previously known by names like German Flats, Morgan's Landing, and Remington's Corners. In 1843, when the community needed a name for a new post office, Eliphalet Remington, the founder of the Remington Arms Company declined to have the village named after himself. David D. Devoe, an admirer of Homer, suggested Ilion, and this name was eventually adopted. With the closure of the Remington factory, the future of the village of Ilion is doubtful. Czytaj więcej

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This is the old New York Central Railroad "Water Level Route" mainline between NYC, Buffalo, and Chicago. This train is eastbound (southbound from Albany).

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Flotsam at Lock 12 from recent flooding in the Mohawk and the canal. The coal train passes.

PodróżnikSo glad you finally got into the canal! I can't wait to see you get to my old backyard. My Aunt lived on the south bank in Gasport. We spent many summer days biking the towpaths and later canoeing the canal sections between Middleport & Tonawanda
Day 63: Ilion to Brewerton
15–16 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
June 15. Still in NY State - we're off the wall at Ilion at 0725 and head about 6 miles upriver to Lock 19, where once again, we're diverted off a diminishing Mohawk River into a broad man-made 'ditch' (see accompanying aerial image); we're back on the canal.
Today, we'll summit near the town of Rome--between Locks 20 and 21--at 420 ft, although travellers who continue through the western section to Buffalo and Niagra will summit there at 566 ft. From our highest point, we'll descend to cross Oneida Lake to Brewerton at around 360 ft, and tomorrow, weather on Lake Ontario permitting, we'll continue northward via the Oswego Canal. Canals 21 and 22, as we negotiate them, are a new experience. We are descending instead of ascending.
We run down the canal to Sylvan Beach, where the locals and early vacationers are already priming their fishing rods and warming up their jetskis. Some groups are already picnicing out on their pontoon runabouts. cross; the Sheriff is out on his boat keeping an eye on who might not be adhering to the No Wake Zone signs.
We emerge onto Oneida Lake at 1400 in tranquil conditions, and Preston sets Otto to take us directly across the lake on a pre-set course. We take the engines up to 2400 rpm to 'blow some soot out', and arrive at Brewerton at around 1530. By 1600, we're tied up at the Ess-Kay Marina and Preston is reconnecting with some old friends, the owner and his wife.
While Preston takes fuel and does a black water pump-out, we take the courtesy car into town, do some grocery shopping, and pick up take-away Italian.
Upon returning to the boat, we get doubly concerning news; Preston has broken the coffee-maker jug and Lock 5 on the Oswego Canal has reported a problem with a valve. Until it's fixed, we're stayin' at Brewerton. We hold a committee meerting about moving up to Lock 4 tomorrow and awaiting the repair, but eventually decide, on Preston's advice, that--in case the wait might become extended--the best place to wait it out would be where we are. So be it. Czytaj więcej

Podróżnik
An aerial of Lock 16 via (via public media) looking south back down the Mohawk River. Here, we're diverted away from an un-navigable section of the river into another section of man-made canal.

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The rest of the climb, from lake Ontario to Lake Erie, will be via the Welland Canal.

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East of Lock 20 the water flows to the Atlantic via the Mohawk and Hudson Rivers. West of here, the water flows to the Atlantic via the St Lawrence Seaway.
Day 64: Brewerton to Oswego
15–16 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
We arise in no great hurry, and Preston cooks sausage patties and corn muffins for breakfast. The first order of business today is to move 45 North to another slip so that a boat that requires serious repairs can be lifted, and our current mooring is obstructing that. We move, and go to watch the lift. This vessel has azipod thrusters with contra-rotating props on each side for propulsion, and they hit a submerged log yesterday, damaging one of the port props. $5,500 for a replacement, plus the mechanic's cost, the delivery captain tells us!
By now, the marina store is open, so the others go over there to continue the search for items they never knew they needed. While there, I'm working on the Blog, when Preston yells from the pilothouse, "Let's go!"; news has come in that Lock 5 has been repaired. I am conflicted... my heart says, "But-but-but I haven't had a chance to visit the Freight Yard Brewery!" But my darn head sez, "Heck, yes!" So, I hightail it over to the store and sing out, "Who wants to go to Lake Ontario?" The crew vote unanimously in an instant, and by the time we get back across to the boat, the engines are rumbling.
We say ta-ta to Ethan and Kim, cast off, and get out into the Oneida River before the bLoopers can. There's one ahead of us and one behind as we negotiate the cutoff and get into Lock 23. Preston negotiates with the captain who was ahead of us (we can run faster than his little 37-ft Great Harbor tug), and we're out of 23 as No.1, which is going to set us up nicely for the Oswego Canal, and the run up to Lake Ontario. Onward to Oswego for the night!
Presently, we encounter the famous turn at Three Rivers where we turn right to head into the Oswego River (and Canal). Smaller vessels than us can turn left and regain the Erie Canal to Buffalo and Niagra, thence into Lake Erie.
Suffice to say, the 8 Locks prove no great moment to us. We have to wait at Phoenix while two southbound vessels come through, but other than that, the only excitement is to catch sight of a deer, which no-one gets their camera out in time for.
We work the 8 locks and arrive into Oswego and tie up at 1620. Phase 3 of our expedition is done and dusted. The Great Lakes await. Czytaj więcej

Podróżnik
So many of these dams were associated with hydero-generation, with decaying infrastructure extant

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Nebo's been a bit hopeless today. Actually we had about a 33 mile and 6 hr run since our late departure from Brewerton. You can see our route, even with Nebo's drop-outs.

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Here's why we had to move moorings. This shows the two azipod drives beneath the vessel. The problem is that a propellor blade on the left-hand drive has been folded back by impact with (probably) a submerged log. The mechanism beneath the stern of the vessel is for raising and lowering the swim platform.
Day 65: Oswego to Rochester
17–18 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
June 17, about 60 miles today. Well, Phase 3 of this voyage is done and today we start Phase 4. We start early, getting the mast re-erected.; it's been folded down since Croton to facilitate passage beneath various bridges, most especially on the Erie Canal and Mohawk River. Now we can again use the radar and AIS for identification.
We're off our berth at the Oswego Marina at 0830 and within 10 min are passing the West Pierhead Lighthouse and facing out into the vastness of our first Great Lake. Today we'll run up the southern edge of Lake Ontario to Rochester for the night. We might have stayed there for two, except the light southerly weather (from which we're largely protected by the landmass of New York State off our Port side) is not forecast to hold, and Preston is keen to get us along to the northern end of the Welland Canal before the lake is roused--as it might be--to 6 or 8 feet waves. Preston does not want charter guests having to submit to that discomfort.
From Oswego we motor almost due west, in almost dead calm conditions, with our maximum distance from the New York shoreline being between 7 or 8 miles. Instrumentation shows a wind speed of about 10 knots on our port quarter; This changes as we run, to a NE breeze. But the big, black flies are back; how on earth do they come to be away out this far? They do love a light breeze, that's for sure.
By 1400, after a silky-smooth voyage, we're standing in toward the Rochester Harbour entrance channel. We slide past the lake cruise terminal, the Coast Guard base, and Bill Gray's Hamburger Grill, turn right into the Rochester Harbor Marina, and meet the young 'dockies', who take our lines. We're fast at about 1650, and head off for a walk and to sort out a dinner venue (there are several to choose from). Preston gets busy doing a big cleanup. Handling rope lines in all those Locks inevitably leaves splashes of filthy water and slime around the foredeck and the stern cockpit. Preston reckons Graeme must have had some fights with the forward Lock lines. At one time, I thought I'd seen some rope marks around Graeme's neck, but I could have been mistaken.
Preston and I handled the stern Lock lines at the cockpit, where we were close to the stern control station, especially for minor forward and aft movements and thruster requirements. I made sure the lines behaved themselves, although it was a close call on a couple of occasions.
We had a peaceful evening. Czytaj więcej
Day 66: Rochester to Port Dalhousie, ON
18–20 cze, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
[Forthwith the 'missing' episodes. I'll endeavour to incrementally populate with images. Be sure to have a second and third look at these footprints. Getting there slowly]
We’re off the dock just after 0700 on a clear, sunny, and calm morning, and there are a few fishers and dog-walkers out to see us slip out of the harbour and turn left again to track along Lake Ontario’s southern shoreline, about 3-5 miles off. The lake is a millpond and remains that way for the entire voyage.
The breeze changes minimally over the next nine hours and with no tide or current, the average 10 mph we see on the screens is close to our actual Speed Over the Ground, with about 300 ft of water under the keel. As we pass offshore the mouth of the Niagara River, we and experience some effect from the outflow current as we pass into Canada, and we encounter some surface fog and heavy rain. 45 minutes later, this weather clears just in time for us to visually acquire the Dalhousie [say D’lucy] Harbour range front light on the east-side breakwater, and we’re home and hosed. A few hundred yards into the harbour, and we’re against the east wall outside the Dalhousie Yacht Club, with two forward spring lines set on account of the current coming down 12-Mile Creek into the harbour. This waterway is the northern end of one of the original iterations of the Welland Canal.
It's been a sweet cruise; the only excitement has been seeing several ‘salties’ outbound from the Welland, probably, for the Atlantic Ocean, hidden away in the mist and seen only as AIS icons on the screen. Tying up is all we’re allowed to do with our feet on Canadian soil until Preston has taken our passports and gone to the marina office to have a phone chat with Canadian Customs. They might have boarded and inspected us, but on this occasion decide to clear us over the phone.
Certain persons have placed a roast in the convection oven, so we’ll be dining onboard tonight. Tomorrow is a lay-day. Czytaj więcej
Day 67: Port Dalhousie (St Catherines)
19 czerwca, Kanada ⋅ 🌬 24 °C
We take our time getting going this morning. After toast and Vegemite, the first task for the day is for me to get the rental car. By prior arrangement, they’re supposed to come and pick me up, but they don’t, so I eventually Uber over to the Enterprise depot, get my Kia, and return to pick the others up. I can’t get my phone to connect via Bluetooth into CarPlay, so a quick diversion back to the rental agency is made which informs us that a setting on the vehicle is wrong, so he gives us a free GPS screen for the day.
Our destination today is Niagara Falls. Jan’s not seen the falls and Graeme & Lorraine were last there 15 years ago, and then only on the US side. I was here 7 years ago, and there’s a lot more water in the river this time. Consequently, the falls are more spectacular and the spray emission also. I’ve booked us into the Queen Victoria Place Restaurant for lunch. Colette and I enjoyed the meal and the view 7 years ago and I thought it might be worth repeating. Although the plastic screens are down on account of the breeze and the spray, we have a good window-side table and an excellent view of both the American and Horseshoe (Canadian) Falls. Needless to say, the souvenir/merch shops get a going-over before we depart; but not, of course, for Chinese-made tourist kitch.
We do a shop for the boat on the way home. We’ve missed the strong winds that Preston experienced for a few hours this afternoon, but it’s a more peaceful evening, and clear enough that we can see the high-rise buildings of Toronto, 56 km away across the lake, and when the sun goes down, the flashing light atop the CN Tower. Czytaj więcej
Day 68: Port Dalhousie to Port Colborne
20–21 cze, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
The famous Welland Canal. Since the Niagara River drains the Great Lakes over the escarpment and down into Lake Ontario, and since we can't navigate the Niagara Falls, we must climb up into Lake Erie via the Welland Canal and a series of 8 Locks. Preston has warned us that we’ll be sharing this ditch with full-size Laker and ocean-going vessels, that they will receive preference and that it will take all day to negotiate this waterway, and so it proves. He also advises that we’ll be ascending to Lake Erie in company with 6 other motor vessels.
We’re away from the little Port of Dalhousie soon after 0700 for the 30-min run over to the northern canal opening. We pick up a local who knows the Welland and all of the processes intimately and await a down-bound freighter to emerge from Lock No. 1. We tie up to the wall, and while we stooge around, our ‘pilot’ gets together with several others as well as a clutch of delivery captains (professionals, who move boats around within the US and Canada for private clients) and they work out the order and arrangement by which we’ll enter the Locks. Because 45 North is heavy (around 95,000 lbs), it’s decided that we’ll be early in the queue and will be against the Lock wall. Another motor yacht will ‘raft’ up against us, and the other vessels will do the same in order to get 7 boats into each Lock at the same time. This dance is repeated each time we move along to the next Lock.
Each year, a clutch of university students are given summer jobs on the Welland, handling the lines. This entails them (we had a group of 3 young ladies, all with hard-hats) dropping two ropes to each boat which are then held fast by crew on the boat nearest the wall until we rise to the top, where the ropes are thrown back onto the dock. The ladies then jump into a vehicle and drive (sometimes they only have to walk) to the next Lock to repeat the process. On our boat, Bob, our local pilot handled the forward line and Graeme and I looked after the stern, which included making sure the fenders (‘freddies’, Graeme calls them) don’t get caught up in various concrete abnormalities as they slid up the Lock wall. We were fortunate on a couple of occasions to be able to cross down-bound freighters in double Locks, where they were in one Lock while we were beside them in a separate one. This greatly facilitated our progress, although waiting for road and rail bridges to be lifter added to our elapsed time in the canal.
We were finally through the last Lock (which really only evened up the canal level at the southern end a couple of feet with Lake Erie) and able to motor around a semi-derelict grain terminal and into the Sugarloaf Harbour Marina at around 1800… a 12-hr day for us all. Dinner was taken in the pub-food Whiskey & Walleye marina restaurant only a short walk away. There was a bit of rain around. Czytaj więcej

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Here we encounter a down-bound freighter in the opposite channel. We're comin' up while he's goin' down. This is the first of a flight of 3 Locks where you move directly from one into the next.

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Note the ropes laid out by the temporary summer employees. They had been dropped over the side wall... two for each vessel that was to moor alongside the wall.

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fenders have to be closely monitored and engines and thrusters used to keep the tie-up boat against the wall. The 'rafters' have an easier life.





































































































































































































































































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The caption doesn't show up too well on this graphic. That small portion from Lock 16 to 17 is the problem. Once it's open, we'll negotiate the Erie from E2 to E23 and then the Oswego from O1 to O8.
that was a good trip into New York [Terry]
we are having really rough weather for King's Birthday week-end. You will be looking forward to getting going again [Terry]