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Americas Great Loop

April - Juni 2025
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The Great Loop from Florida follows the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, the Hudson River, the New York Canals, the Great Lakes, then south on the Inland Rivers to the Gulf Coast and back to FL to complete the Loop. Weiterlesen
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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop

    Day 35: At Cape May

    18. Mai in den USA ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We're now well-and-truly out of the 'south'. We are forced, by the off-shore weather, to remain in Cape May for an extra night. That means a full day that we had not expected. We have a full breakfast at the marina restaurant then hire a battery-electric golf cart and do a tour of the town. The architecture is like nothing we've seen before... stupendous! Cape May is singularly characteristic. We're very pleased to have seen it. We imagine what it'll be like around here from June, as the summer crowds arrive.

    We visit the WWII observation tower (and Graeme goes up), then the lighthouse (but Graeme has reached his climbing limit), then we walk the Mall and do some shopping. We return to the boat for dinner on board and Preston takes the golf cart into town, as his salivary glands are screaming, "Mexican!"

    Other transient boats start arriving at the marina for the night, including some 'company traffic'... a Fleming 65, "Sequoia".

    Tomorrow we venture out into the Atlantic Ocean and run up the famed 'Jersey Shore', past Atlantic City, heading for an overnight at Brielle [Bree-ELLE].    Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop

    Day 34: Delaware City to Cape May, NJ

    17. Mai in den USA ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    The captain turns the keys and lights the fires at around 0645 and by 0700 we're sliding sedately along the Delaware City Branch Channel (a remnant of the original C&D Canal) at 'No Wake' speed and turning out into the Delaware River. We accelerate, and head down-river past the Salem Nuclear Power Plant and the proximate Hope Creek Generating Station. The estuary widens into the Delaware Bay and we continue south, bound for one of the eastern USA's most popular summer vacation towns.

    The Ship John Shoal Lighthouse, dating back to 1874, passes to port. The name refers to a shoal named after the ship 'John' that foundered there in 1797 while en-route from Germany to Philidelphia. Also to port, we pass the Elbow of Cross Ledge Light tower (that was a lighthouse until being destroyed when a ship collided with it in 1953 and subsequently replaced by a skeleton tower on the same foundation), and the Miah Maull Shoal Light, The name of this shoal commemorates Nehemiah Maull, a river pilot who was drowned in 1780 when the ship in which he intended to sail to England in order to make a claim on an inheritance was wrecked on the then-unnamed shoal.

    At this point the Delaware Bay is around 11 miles wide and will soon widen to about 30 miles before narrowing slightly as we approach Cape May. Ocean shipping is apparent, coming into and going from the Bay. Another light, the Brandywine Shoal light--automated in 1974, and the last staffed light on Delaware Bay--passes off to our right as we cut across toward the entrance to the Cape May Canal that will take us to our marina for the night.

    Just after midday we follow the Cape May-Lewes ferry into the canal, it docks at the nearby terminal, and we continue along the canal and exit into the Cape May Harbour. A hard right turn brings us into Schellenger Creek and to the South Jersey Marina. We execute a 180 in the narrow fairway and are fast alongside within a few minutes. We leave Preston to his inevitable chores and head along to The Lobster House for a light lunch.

    When we return there is news... we'll be here for another night. There's a Small Craft Warning regarding rough conditions along the coast tomorrow. Preston thinks it better to shelter from that rather than bump his guests into the whitecaps. I would've ridden with him, but of course I have to think of MY guests! We'll take advantage of the extra day to explore the town. It won't have an appreciable effect on our overall trip.    Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop
    1

    Day 33: Baltimore to Delaware City

    16. Mai in den USA ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    The only reason I came to Baltimore was to visit the renowned B&O Railroad Museum. Now that I've seen it, we can go now.

    We untie in the Inner Harbour at around 0800 and slip down the Patapsco River and out into Chesapeake Bay for the 70-odd mile, 8-hr run via the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal to Delaware City for the night. We slide up the upper Bay in calm conditions on a flat sea. By midday we're into the broad Elk River estuary with about 9 miles to run to enter the canal.

    From Elk River we divert into Back Creek (there must be 47 'Back Creeks' in the USA) and the start of the C&D Canal. there is a lot of history to this waterway and it can nowadays handle large ocean-going ships although we see none. After an easy 12-mile voyage--and having passed beneath numerous bridges--we arrive into the Delaware River and turn hard a-port to arrive at Delaware City (NB to Aussies and Kiwis: 'City' in the USA does not mean what it does in our countries). We motor into the northern end of the old C&D Canal to run to our allocated marina berth. The strong ebb tidal flow has the dockmaster on the jetty advising of a slightly (to us) unusual process to dock. But the dockie and Preston know what he wants and we hand him our bow line while Preston jockeys thrusters and engines to swing our stern out into the creek, where the current eventually places us against the dock, facing the opposite direction. Graeme and I already have the port-side fenders and spring lines ready for the dockie. He certainly knows his stuff; we're lying against the dock facing the tidal stream. Our departure tomorrow will be easier.

    We go for a wander uptown, Graeme and I visit the local for a sherbet while Lorraine visits an art gallery that is still open. We return to the ship for a home-cooked dinner that includes Australian lamb chops (NZ ones not yet seen in the shops over here).

    Tomorrow, we'll be looking for an 0700 start to run the nearly 60 miles down the Delaware Bay and into Cape May before the unsettled weather expected in the evening.    Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop

    Day 32A: More from the B&O RR Museum

    15. Mai in den USA ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    The 40-acre historic B&O Railroad Museum site at Mt Clare is a National Historic Landmark and is the original site where the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad founded America’s first commercial railroad in 1827. The site is recognised as the birthplace of American railroading, saw the first passenger and freight station in the United States and was the first railroad manufacturing complex in the country.Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop

    Day 32: At Baltimore

    14. Mai in den USA ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    A foggy morning in the Inner Harbour... but it's lifted by the time we've finished our toast. The B&O Railroad Museum opens at 1000 and I'll be there. The others have planned a guided tour of the city.

    We have received a concerning notice advising that the Erie Canal will be opening several weeks late. We have options, which we're debating; more on this later.

    Preston and I attend the B&O Railroad Museum which celebrates the birthplace of American railroading. The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad was founded in 1827, as America's first commercial railroad. In the roundhouse (built in 1884) and associated buildings we see a lot of very ancient and historic locomotives, We even take a ride over the first mile of commercial railroad in the United States. The display is very well presented. The others, meanwhile, take a minibus tour of the city. We'll have a light 'clean-out-the-fridge' dinner on board tonight.

    The New York State Canal Corporation has advised that navigation along the Erie Canal in the Mohawk Valley will be delayed as a direct result of a recent weather-related high-water event that has impacted Central and Eastern New York. As conditions allow for sections of the New York State Canal system to begin operating this season, certain portions of the Erie Canal (that affect us) will remain closed to navigation until further notice. Critical repairs are underway to canal infrastructure that sustained damage during the weather event. One location – the Rocky Rift movable dam that regulates the navigation pool in this area – was significantly damaged while being operated to adjust flows during the recent rainstorms. In addition, crews are repairing a saturated seep along an earthen embankment between the lock and movable dam. Both repairs must be completed to ensure safe navigation – an essential part of maintaining this more than 100-year-old infrastructure in 2025.

    We've chosen to continue the voyage as per our schedule, and go, at least, as far as Croton-on-Hudson and see what the delay situation is then. It might be better than we expect.

    Tomorrow, we head up the Chesapeake Bay and through the C&D Canal to Delaware City on the Delaware River. Then it'll be down Delaware Bay and out to sea along the Jersey coast and into New York City.    Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop

    Day 31: Rock Hall to Baltimore

    14. Mai in den USA ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    A morning of low cloud and rain showers, but it's forecast to improve as the day wears on. We're reminded of an old adage we learnt growing up (and it's almost always true); "Raining at 7, fine by 11."

    Another short voyage today, across the Bay and into the Inner Harbour at Baltimore. We enter another broad estuary, this time the Patapsco River and sail serenely into the midst of downtown Baltimore and the Inner Harbour Marina. Jan will recognise the Rennaisance Harborplace Hotel, just across from us.

    Francis Scott Key (1779 –1843) was a lawyer well-known as the person who wrote the words that eventually became the American National Anthem, The Star-Spangled Banner. He served eight years as District Attorney for the District of Columbia and although he was a slave owner and represented owners of runaway slaves, he publicly criticised slavery and at times provided pro-bono representation to slaves seeking freedom. He was immortalised in the naming of the 1.6-mile/2.6 km Francis Scott Key Bridge, the second-longest in the US and third-longest in the world, carrying Interstate 695, a beltway around Baltimore, and used by 34,000 vehicles each day, including 3,000 trucks, many of which hauled hazardous materials barred from the two harbor tunnels. In March 2024, an outbound container ship collided with a bridge support, causing the entire structure to collapse causing the death of six construction workers. After many months, the ship and the bridge wreckage were able to be removed, and today as we sail into Baltimore we pass this sad site. Reconstruction, which will include demolition and removal of the remaining spans, has commenced and the job will take many years.    Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop
    1

    Day 30: Edgewater to Rock Hall

    13. Mai in den USA ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    We awaken this morning to low cloud and light rain. It's going to be another short voyage today (we feel obliged to break Jan in gently), up the bay to Rock Hall on the eastern shore, where Preston has promised us we'll find a premier crab restaurant. Some of us don't take disappointment well--especially when it involves food--so he'd better be right!

    We're away from the Burr Yacht Sales dock in Selby Bay shortly after 1000 in light misty rain and a very light breeze. We cruise north, past three ships at anchor--two empty bulkers and one loaded with wind turbine blades--and beneath the enormous Chesapeake Bay Bridges.

    We tiptoe into the Rock Hall harbour and are secured alongside at the Rock Hall Landing Marina by around 1520. We leave Preston to the housework (which he insists on) and we four head off in the light, misty rain for a walk into town. A local appears and wishes us well and that we enjoy Rock Hall's 'liquid sunshine'.

    Some quilt material is purchased and at another shop I get some jandals (thongs, to we Aussies) and at yet another store we buy some goods for the boat. We walk along Main Street and back and are struck by the sheer quaint and quirky presentation of houses. Jan decides bravely, that it's the nicest wee town in the whole USA. Certainly, she's mightily impressed with the crab bisque and is now, quite possibly, a Maryland crab aficianado... but don't tell her!.

    The rest of us have crab cakes, delicious hush puppies, and various sides, and are too replete to have desert. Graeme has a slice of Key Lime Pie packaged to take home.

    Tomorrow, to Baltimore.    Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop

    Day 29: St. Michaels to Edgewater

    12. Mai in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    A departure around 0800 out of St Michaels takes us onto a glassy-smooth Miles River, and this continues into Eastern Bay and then across Chesapeake Bay to Edgewater in the South River. Our destination is Burr Yacht Sales, the Fleming motor yacht dealer for some scheduled maintenance and replacement of a faulty data screen.

    It's a short 3-hr voyage, with a highlight being the Thomas Point Shoal lighthouse - a National Historic Landmark.

    Nowadays the lighthouse is unstaffed but continues to display an active light and while the light is serviced by the US Coast Guard, the structure is maintained by a group of volunteers.

    We tie up at Burr Yacht Sales, and hasten to get in touch with Jan, who flew in to Baltimore last night after two flights and about 18 hours of travel from Auckland. Although not getting to bed in her hotel until after 0130, she's up and about by 1130 and we arrange to bring the Burr Yacht Sales courtesy van into Baltimore and rescue her. On the way home we stop for lunch and do another major provisioning shop and are back at the boat by 1630.

    Preston gives Jan her safety briefing, Graeme cooks dinner, and we settle in for a good evening of 'catching up'.    Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop

    Day 28: Solomans, MD to St. Michaels, MD

    11. Mai in den USA ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    5.5 hrs. We rise early for an 0700 departure on another calm, clear morning. Our 50-mile run today is up and across the bay and down into the Miles River estuary to the town of St. Michaels. This now-tourist town is famous for dating back to the 1770s, for building the fast 'Baltimore Clipper' schooners, for 'fooling the British' in 1812, for oyster and crab industries, and for the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. We're keen to get to the museum and then to take up our dinner reservation--phoned in while on the bay yesterday--at The Crab Claw, hence our early departure and short run for an early arrival.

    We glide up the bay, passing an LNG loading terminal (with a ship just away and outbound for India - with 150 miles to go before it reaches the Atlantic Ocean), and a nuclear power plant. An inbound ocean-going bulker comes up behind us and another, outbound, heads toward us. Another of those immense suspension bridges the Americans do so well--the 4-mile-long Gov. William Preston Lane Jr. Memorial (Chesapeake) Bay Bridge (known locally as the Bay Bridge)--looms away up the bay. When built in 1952 it was the world's longest continuous over-water steel structure. It has been 'dual-spanned' and remains the longest fixed water crossing in Maryland. We'll be passing beneath it in days to come.

    The bay now is glassy-calm and the wind is light. There's a lot of Mothers Day rec boat traffic around us as we turn up into Eastern Bay, past the burnt-out and storied ruins of the Bloody Point Bar lighthouse. A Fleming 55 coming out of St. Michaels is momentarily of great interest as it heads out into Chesapeake Bay.

    We sail into a busy St. Michaels harbour. After tying up, Graeme and I head off to find the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. Lorraine is not feeling 100% and stays aboard. The museum tells the story of the Chesapeake Bay and its estuarine tributaries, particularly the history of the 'watermen' and the fishing, oystering, and crabbing industries. We think it's great!

    We return to 45 North, clean up, and repair to the harbourside Crab Claw for dinner. The harbour is quiet... the Mum's Day boaters have gone home.    Weiterlesen

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  • ReisenderAmericas Great Loop

    Day 27: Colonial Bch to Solomans, MD

    10. Mai in den USA ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    7 Hrs. We're away from picturesque Colonial Beach at 0830 in fine, cool weather; dodging the minefield of crab pots around the channel, and back out into the wide Potomac. The plan is to cross the river and follow the northern side down to Point Lookout for the turn to port, then hug the western edge of Chesapeake Bay up to Solomans for the night. We're expecting a NW breeze on our port quarter once into the bay.

    We cruise down a choppy Potomac for around 4 hrs with the auto pilot doing its best to cope with the following 'sea'. We round Point Lookout and the old light station at lunchtime with the immense expanse of Chesapeake Bay ahead, and the AP points us onto the northerly course Preston has previously set. We beat up the western side of the bay, passing the old lighthouse guarding the shoal off the projection of land extraordinarily named Point No Point. Thus, the point that is not considered to be a 'point'.

    After a couple of hours of bouncing along in a fresh and forceful breeze, we are able to turn left and make our way into the Patuxent River, then Back Creek, then the marina at the Solomans Yachting Centre.

    Preston sets about washing the salty boat while we three set off to walk around to the Boardwalk and the Pier, and check out the Tiki Bar & Restaurant, where there's going to be an 80s rock band this evening. Sadly, we can't indulge as we have to get back to the boat for dinner and an early night for an early start tomorrow.

    We do, though, take time to stop for a couple of sherbets at the marina's Bluefish Pub where we watch the ballgame in DC (the unfortunate Washington Nationals lose to the St Louis Cardinals). Well, it'd have been unsocial not to.

    Big day though, tomorrow.    Weiterlesen

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