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- Día 133
- domingo, 24 de agosto de 2025, 22:04
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitud: 1.631 m
Estados UnidosFarmington36°44’39” N 108°10’48” W
My epic journey continues 2
24 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
More photos. Captions to come..
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- Día 129
- miércoles, 20 de agosto de 2025, 6:47
- 🌙 26 °C
- Altitud: 114 m
Estados UnidosLaredo27°30’55” N 99°29’52” W
Aug 20-24: My epic journey continues 1
20 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌙 26 °C
I took the 0925 Acela train to Boston. I'd always desired to see it, and thought I'd catch Amtrak's "Lake Shore Limited" from there back to Chicago to continue my foray into Colorado. However, the section from Boston to Albany, NY, was not running due to some track work and was operating as an Amtrak coach. So, I went up to Boston, spent a day there, and returned to D.C. in order to head west. I couldn't get the bedroom I wanted on the "Lake Shore Limited" section out of New York City (that would normally amalgamate with the Boston section at Albany), hence returning to D.C. to go west on the "Floridian"
Amtrak's "Acela" product is electrifying (pun intended). It runs from Washington D.C., through NYC (actually--via Penn Station--a fair way beneath it) and on to Boston in less than 6½ hrs. All of the 454-mile/731-km of the route is 'owned' by Amtrak and known as the Northeast Corridor. It is the busiest passenger rail line in the United States by ridership and service frequency. In numerous sections, the train easily attains and cruises at 150 mph (240 km/h).
I took the Hop-on/Hop-off bus in Boston, walked around a bit, and learnt enough to know I'd like to return and spend a few days there. Then it was back to D.C. on "Acela" with a scheduled few hours to spend at Union Station before catching the "Floridian" for an overnight run back to Chicago.
The scheduled 'few' hours stretched out to a few more, before the train--delayed down in Florida by heat restrictions that affect the rails--finally arrived, was serviced, and we were able to board. Still, it didn't get dark until after Martinsburg.
But it was a catering disaster. The crew appeared to have NO idea and we in the 7:00 pm sitting for dinner sat at our table for almost 2 hrs before the food arrived. We even had to suggest to the (solitary) waiter that he might bring the bread rolls in the meantime and offer us some vino. When the food finally arrived, the portions were about 50% of what we normally got on the Amtrak diner table. I might find out what happened if Amtrak deign to respond to my email.
So, an 8:38 am arrival into Chicago became something closer to midday. No wurries... the California Zephyr wasn't scheduled to depart until 2:00 pm. Departure was near enough to on time, and this time we 'headed' out of the terminal, not backwards. I was soon along to the Sightseer Lounge for a beverage and some scenery. The western suburbs of Chicago and the plains east of Naperville are not particularly scenic, but I was seated beside a bio-scientist so I learned a lot about the farming we saw. I learned that llinois is a major agricultural state, known primarily for its production of corn and soybeans (of which I saw plenty), ranking first and second in the U.S. respectively for these key crops. Other significant crops include wheat, hay, and sorghum, alongside a variety of specialty crops such as pumpkins, apples, peaches, and horseradish.
I was in the diner, and unprepared as we suddenly entered onto the BNSF Railroad drawbridge over the Mississippi River at Burlington. Bugger! I had no camera to hand as we slid past the BNSF RR yard and commenced the climb out the valley and into Iowa.
My sleep that night was fitful, as it seemed to me that I could hear the regulation 'long-long-short-long' locomotive horn signal for EVERY level crossing in Iowa, Nebraska, and eastern Colorado. There must be a level crossing every half mile in some places, as it sometimes seemed incessant.
I awoke somewhere out on the Colorado prairie, took a shower (unlike the "Floridian", this was comfortably warm), dressed, and waddled off to the diner for a Signature Amtrak 3-egg omelette. We were only in the outer suburbs of Denver when I announced to my table-mates that I must take my leave and find a seat in the Sightseer Lounge while I could. Turned out the crowd didn't start arriving until we pulled out of Denver Union station quite some time later, onto Union Pacific's Moffat Subdivision.
But what a thrill to watch those two GE diesels up front bite into the grade at a steady 30 mph. The train is scarcely out of the city before the climb into the front range of the Rockies commences. We wind around the famous Big Ten Curve and keep climbing. After many curves and many tunnels (there are 28 between Denver and the Moffat Tunnel) through many precipitous ridges, we cruise along several deep valleys and follow the South Boulder Creek for several scenic miles. Eventually, we run down another lengthy valley and the conductor announces the "Moffat Tunnel". All necks are craned and eyes are peeled as we pass a track maintenance depot and plunge into over 6 miles of darkness beneath Rollins Pass and the Continental Divide, during which we will attain an elevation of 9,239 ft. About 12 minutes later, we emerge into sunlight at the Winter Park Ski Resort village, and begin our long descent to my destination for today, Grand Junction, CO.
Our run down to Grand Junction takes us alongside many miles of the upper reaches of the Colorado River. We see literally hundreds of kayakers, tubers, and white water rafters, all doing their particular thing on the piece of river that suits them. We also learn why locals have given this portion of the Colorado the nickname "Moon River". We stop for passengers at Glenwood Springs and Granby, before arriving at Grand Junction at 5:00 pm, 35 min late. I have a hotel very close to the station and also, for tomorrow, to an Enterprise Car Rental outlet.
Grand Junction sits at an elevation of 4,583 ft. This beats the MacKinnon Pass on New Zealand's Milford Track, that Colette and I hiked over some years ago, at 3,786 ft and might explain why I have the very faintest feeling of nausea as I haul my bags two blocks to my hotel. Sitting on the train, I hadn't noticed.
An interesting drive awaits, tomorrow!Leer más

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Faneuil Hall [they say FAN-yul or FAN-nell] (sometimes called "the Cradle of Liberty") is an historic place near the waterfront in Boston, Massachusetts. It was built in 1742. It has been a marketplace and a meeting hall. Today it is the city's Government Center. It was the site of several speeches by Samuel Adams and others encouraging independence from Great Britain. It is now part of Boston National Historical Park and a stop on the Freedom Trail.

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Built in 1916 and said to have inspired the architects who won the contest to build the Sydney Harbour Bridge in 1932. The high buildings faintly on the horizon above the red barge are downtown Brooklyn. Manhattan is behind the bridge structure.
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- Día 128
- martes, 19 de agosto de 2025, 6:20
- 🌙 25 °C
- Altitud: 30 m
Estados UnidosTallahassee30°26’12” N 84°16’35” W
Aug 19: The Cradle of The Civil War 8
19 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌙 25 °C
I drove to Martinsburg, VA, and spent an hour inspecting the railroad precinct that had been burnt following the Battle of Sharpsburg, when Confederate General Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson ordered the destruction of the roundhouse and shops in October 1862 to prevent the Baltimore and Ohio (B&O) Railroad facilities from being used by the Union army. In this campaign against the B&O railroad, they also destroyed multiple bridges, tore up miles of track, and captured dozens of locomotives and hundreds of cars. Gen. Jackson's forces had also conducted a major raid on the B&O railroad in the Martinsburg area in 1861, in which they captured and removed a large amount of rollingstock.
From Martinsburg, it was onwards to Gettysburg, as I had time to spare. The Gettysburg Visitor Centre is yet another of the magnificent Civil War visitor centres throughout the United States that serve as educational hubs and gateways to historic battlefields and other sites. Once visited, you can see how they provide a crucial layer of context, interpretation, and a display of historical artifacts that enrich and prepare you for your experiences on the preserved grounds. Run by the National Park Service, state park systems (and sometimes private foundations), these centres vary in size and focus but often share common features. I think the Gettysburg centre was the largest that I attended.
At the Gettysburg Visitor Center, you can see Civil War exhibits in the Gettysburg Museum, an excellent 22-min film that is narrated by Morgan Freeman (providing a comprehensive overview of the Civil War and the Battle of Gettysburg), and the priceless, fully restored 360-degree Gettysburg Cyclorama painting that immerses you in the chaos of Pickett's Charge. You can also visit the preserved home and farm of President Dwight D. Eisenhower, which is located near the battlefield.
After a superb tour of the Gettysburg Battleground (I paid a guide to drive my Jeep around a 25-mile tour, during which he and I discussed the battle and he answered my many questions regarding the combatant's military strategy and the technical prosecution of those three momentous and bloody days). Here's some detail about that event and some background as well. (Scroll bar to the right if you're not interested)
Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, became a famous town. Its name originates from Samuel Gettys, an early Irish immigrant who settled in the area and established a tavern. His son, James, is credited with founding the village in 1786—laying out the town and dividing his father's land into saleable lots—and initially naming it Gettystown. The town was incorporated as Gettysburg in 1806.
At the intersection of ten major roads, it was an attractive location for travelers and settlers, especially merchants. Although known primarily for its proximity to the now-famous battlefield, the borough of 7,620 residents is also known for its institutions of higher learning. The town is 52 miles from Baltimore, MD, 90 miles from Washington, D.C., and 102 miles from Philadelphia, PA.
Confederate General Robert E. Lee made two attempts to invade the North during the Civil War. These were the Maryland Campaign of 1862 (culminating in the bloody Battle of Antietam, previously described in this blog) and the Gettysburg Campaign of the following year. As recounted in my blog, the Maryland Campaign was unsuccessful—the Union army claiming victory—while the Gettysburg Campaign ended with a major Confederate defeat that directly precipitated the Confederate surrender two years later.
How the Battle of Gettysburg happened:
Buoyed by his success at Chancellorsville, VA, in May 1863, Lee led his army north through the Shenandoah Valley to begin his second invasion of the North - the Gettysburg Campaign. Covering 16 miles per day, and with his army in high spirits, Lee intended to shift the focus of the summer campaign from war-ravaged northern Virginia and hoped to influence Northern politicians to give up their prosecution of the war by penetrating as far as Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, or even Philadelphia. He hoped also, to relieve the pressure the Union was apply to the Confederate garrison at Vicksburg, on the Mississippi River (this is a whole separate action occurring in another part of the country and is worth looking at for its own part in the Civil War story). Since fighting battles inevitably ends up with the territory being fought upon being ravaged and often laid waste, it also made sense for Lee to try and shift any fighting off Virginian territory and onto that of the North.
So, in June of 1863, Lee commenced to shift his army northward from Fredericksburg, VA. Following the death at Chancellorsville of Gen. "Stonewall" Jackson (who was shot accidentally by his own troops and died eight days later from pneumonia, which developed after his left arm was amputated due to the wounds), Lee reorganized his two large corps into three new corps, commanded by Lt. Generals James Longstreet (First Corps), Richard S. Ewell (Second), and Ambrose (A.P.) Hill (Third); both Ewell and Hill, who had formerly reported to “Stonewall” Jackson as division commanders, were new to this level of responsibility. The Cavalry Division remained under the command of Maj. Gen. James Stuart (universally known as ‘Jeb’, after his initials J.E.B.).
Prodded by President Lincoln, Maj. Gen. Joseph Hooker moved the Army of the Potomac (consisting of seven infantry corps, a cavalry corps, and an Artillery Reserve, collectively numbering over 100,000 men) in pursuit but was relieved of command just three days before the battle and replaced by Maj. Gen. George Meade (Note: in a dispute around how he’d arranged his forces for the defence of the Harpers Ferry garrison—which was defeated and imprisoned by the Confederates—Hooker offered his resignation, and Lincoln and General-in-Chief Henry W. Halleck, who were looking for an excuse to get rid of him, immediately accepted). Hooker was replaced early on the morning of June 28 with Maj. Gen. George Gordon Meade, at the time commanding V Corps.
The Confederates crossed the Potomac River and entered Maryland in the latter part of June, 1863. Hooker's Union army pursued, remaining between the U.S. capital and Lee's army.
The southern army was under strict orders from Lee to minimise any negative impacts on the civilian population. Food, horses, and other supplies were generally not seized outright, although quartermasters reimbursing Northern farmers and merchants with Confederate money were not well received. Various towns, most notably York, Pennsylvania, were required to pay indemnities in lieu of supplies, under threat of destruction. During the invasion, the Confederates seized some 40 northern African Americans. A few of them were fugitive slaves, but most were freemen; all were sent south into slavery under guard.
Having learned that the Union army had crossed the Potomac River, Lee ordered a concentration of his forces around Cashtown, located eight miles (13 km) west of Gettysburg. One of Hill's brigades (North Carolinians under Brig. Gen. J. Johnston Pettigrew), ventured toward Gettysburg, ostensibly to search for supplies—especially shoes. Approaching Gettysburg, Pettigrew's troops noticed Union cavalry arriving south of town, and Pettigrew returned to Cashtown without engaging them. When Pettigrew told his superiors what he’d seen, neither general believed him, suspecting that he’d seen some Pennsylvania militia. Despite General Lee's order to avoid a general engagement until his entire army was concentrated, Hill decided to reconnoiter in force the following morning to confirm the size and strength of the enemy force in his front. Around 5 a.m. on Wednesday, July 1, two brigades of Heth's division advanced to Gettysburg.
So, elements of the two armies initially collided near Gettysburg on July 1, Lee’s objective being to engage the Union army and destroy it. That first day at Gettysburg, more significant than simply a prelude to the bloody second and third days, ranks as the 23rd biggest battle of the war by number of troops engaged. About one quarter of Meade's army (22,000 men) and one third of Lee's army (27,000) were engaged.
Hastily developed Union lines were overrun, sending the defenders retreating through the town to hills just to the south. In the late afternoon of the second day of battle, Lee launched a heavy assault but all across the battlefield, despite significant losses, the Union defenders held their lines. On the third day of battle, the main event was a dramatic infantry assault by 12,500 Confederate troops, known as Pickett's Charge. This was repulsed by Union rifle and artillery fire, at great loss to the Confederate army, and Lee would be forced to lead his army on a torturous retreat back to Virginia.
"A great basin lay before us full of smoke and fire, and literally swarming with riderless horses and fighting, fleeing, and pursuing men."
1st Lt. Porter Farley, USA, 140th New York Volunteers.
For these three days in July of 1863, a costly battle raged between the Union and Confederate armies in and around the borough, with over 51,000 casualties, the largest number of the entire war. Although the Civil War continued for another two years following the Battle at Gettysburg (see my previous “Cradle of The Civil War”, especially on Lee’s retreat and the Battle of Appomattox), this clash is universally viewed as the turning point of the war.
On November 19, President Lincoln would attend a dedication ceremony for the Gettysburg National Cemetery and use the occasion to honour the fallen Union soldiers and redefine the purpose of the war in his historic Gettysburg Address.
These engagements were part of a larger effort by Sheridan to gain control of the Shenandoah Valley, prevent further Confederate incursions into Union territory, and destroy its resources.
Some background:
The leading military players in this great saga of the American Civil War were almost all complex and sometimes many-faceted characters. By way of explanation, and to illustrate why this era fascinates me, consider Union General Philip Sheridan:
Philip Henry Sheridan was once hilariously described by Abraham Lincoln as, “A brown, chunky little chap, with a long body, short legs, not enough neck to hang him, and such long arms that if his ankles itch he can scratch them without stooping.” Still, “Little Phil” rose to tremendous power and fame before his untimely death of a heart attack at age 57. He is most famous for his destruction of the Shenandoah Valley in 1864, called “The Burning” by its residents. He was also the subject of an extremely popular poem entitled “Sheridan’s Ride”, in which he (and his famous horse, Rienzi) save the day by arriving just in time for the Battle of Cedar Creek.
Sheridan rose very quickly in rank. In the fall of 1861, he was a staff officer for Maj. Gen. Henry Halleck and l later became quartermaster general in the Army of Southwest Missouri. With the help of influential friends, he was appointed Colonel of the 2nd Michigan Cavalry in May, 1862. His first battle, at Booneville, MS, impressed Brig. Gen. William Rosecrans so much that he was promoted to Brigadier General. After [the Battle of] Stones River he was promoted to Major General.
Sheridan’s men were part of the forces that captured Missionary Ridge, near Chattanooga, in 1863. When Ulysses S. Grant was promoted to General-in-Chief of the Union armies, he made Sheridan the commander of the Army of the Potomac’s Cavalry Corps. This moved Sheridan from the Western Theater to the Eastern Theater of operations.
At first, Sheridan’s Corps was used for reconnaissance. His men were sent on a strategic raiding mission toward Richmond in May 1864, then he fought with mixed success in Grant’s 1864 Overland Campaign.
During the Civil War, Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley was a vital resource to the Confederacy. Not only did it serve as the Confederate “breadbasket”, it was an important transportation route. The region had witnessed two large-scale campaigns already when Grant decided to visit the Valley once again in 1864. He sent Philip Sheridan on a mission to make the Shenandoah Valley a “barren waste”.
In September, Sheridan defeated Jubal Early’s smaller force at Third Winchester, and again at Fisher’s Hill [Confederate Lt. Gen. Jubal Early and Sheridan faced each other in engagements during August 1864 that included the Battle of Summit Point and the Battle of Smithfield Crossing. These engagements were part of the larger effort by Sheridan to gain control of the Shenandoah Valley, prevent further Confederate incursions into Union territory, and destroy its resources].
Then Sheridan began “The Burning” – destroying barns, mills, railroads, factories – resources for which the Confederacy had a dire need. He made over 400 square miles of the Valley uninhabitable. “The Burning” foreshadowed William Tecumseh Sherman’s “March to the Sea”: another campaign to deny resources to the Confederacy as well as bring the war home to its civilians.
In October, however, Gen. Jubal Early caught Sheridan off guard. Early launched a surprise attack at Cedar Creek on the 19th when Sheridan was ten miles away in Winchester, Virginia. Upon hearing the sound of artillery fire, Sheridan raced to rejoin his forces and arrived just in time to rally his troops. Early’s men, however, were suffering from hunger and began to loot the abandoned Union camps. The actions of Sheridan (and Maj. Gen. Horatio Wright) put a stop to the Union retreat and dealt a severe blow to Early’s army.
For his actions at Cedar Creek, Sheridan was promoted to Major General in the regular army and received a letter of gratitude from President Abraham Lincoln. The general took great pleasure in Thomas Buchanan Read’s poem, “Sheridan’s Ride” – so much so that he renamed his horse “Winchester”. The Union victories in the Shenandoah Valley came just in time for Abraham Lincoln and helped the Republicans defeat Democratic candidate George B. McClellan in the election of 1864.
During the spring of 1865, Sheridan pursued Lee’s army with dogged determination, and trapped Early’s army in March. In April, Gen. Lee was forced to evacuate Petersburg when Sheridan cut off his lines of support at Five Forks and, at Sayler’s Creek, he captured almost one quarter of Lee’s army. Finally at Appomattox, Lee was forced to surrender the Army of Northern Virginia [see my previous Footprint] when Sheridan’s forces blocked Lee’s escape route.
At war’s end, Phil Sheridan was a hero to many Northerners. Gen. Grant held him in the highest esteem. Still, Sheridan was not without his faults. He had pushed Grant’s orders to the limit. He also removed Gettysburg hero Governor Warren from command, an action that was later ruled unwarranted and unjustified.
During Reconstruction [the Reconstruction era—1861-1900—was the period after the Civil War that focused on integrating formerly enslaved African Americans into society and reintegrating former Confederate states into the Union. The period involved significant political, social, and economic changes, as well as violent opposition and ultimately, a retreat from efforts to secure Black equality] Sheridan was appointed to be the military governor of Texas and Louisiana (the Fifth Military District). Because of the severity of his administration there, President Andrew Johnson declared that Sheridan was a tyrant and had him removed.
In 1867, though, Ulysses S. Grant assigned Sheridan to pacify the Great Plains, where warfare with Native Americans was wreaking havoc. In an effort to force the Plains people onto reservations, Sheridan used the same tactics he used in the Shenandoah Valley; he attacked several tribes in their winter quarters, and promoted the widespread slaughter of American bison, their primary source of food.
In 1871, the General oversaw military relief efforts during the Great Chicago Fire. He became the Commanding General of the United States Army on November 1, 1883, and on June 1, 1888, he was promoted to General of the Army of the United States – the same rank achieved by Ulysses S. Grant and William Tecumseh Sherman.
Sheridan is also largely responsible for the establishment of Yellowstone National Park – saving it from being sold to developers.
Sheridan died In August 1888, after a series of massive heart attacks. He was buried at Arlington National Cemetery.
I departed Gettysburg happy (and sad) for the drive to Washington D.C., to drop the car and to check into my hotel.Leer más

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Confederate General Robert E. Lee’s Headquarters is a one-and-a-half story stone house, situated on the crest of Seminary Ridge, west of the town of Gettysburg and on the north side of the Chambersburg Pike. During the Civil War, the property was co-owned by Thaddeus Stevens, an influential and powerful Pennsylvania Congressman, and a 69-year-old widow named Mary Thompson. Lee slept outside under canvas, and never in the house as he didn't want the owners to be penalised after the war.

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Note the farmhouse in the distance at left. The Codori Farm was a crucial location during the Battle of Gettysburg. It was the site of intense fighting on July 2nd and was central to Pickett's Charge the following day (July 3rd, 1863). The fields of the farm served as the primary route for the Army of Virginia's attack on Union lines during Pickett's Charge, which was ultimately repulsed by the Union Army. The farm was used as a burial site for many Confederate soldiers after the battle; their remains being later moved to southern cemeteries. The National Park Service now owns the Codori Farm, with the farmhouse being used as a residence for park staff.
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- Día 127
- lunes, 18 de agosto de 2025, 9:37
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Altitud: 92 m
Estados UnidosFrederick39°24’55” N 77°24’55” W
Aug 18: The Cradle of The Civil War 7
18 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Harpers Ferry, in Jefferson County, WV, is a scenic and historically vital town. The U.S. National Park Service website has—I think—by far the best chronological description of the part played by Harpers Ferry in the American Civil War. (https://www.nps.gov/hafe/learn/historyculture/h…)
Harpers Ferry emerged in 1859 onto the national stage when the radical abolitionist John Brown and a small band of followers raided the U.S. armoury in an unsuccessful attempt to ignite a slave insurrection.
Before the war, 3,000 people lived and worked in the prosperous industrial town of Harpers Ferry. Benefitting from abundant natural resources and situated at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, this area was advertised as “one of the best situations in the United States for factories.” The town’s largest source of industry, the United States Armory, had over 20 factory buildings and 400 employees. The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad and (its industrial competition) the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal also provided a steady flow of people and commerce throughout the town. These assets made the town strategically important to both sides during the war.
With the federal armoury that had been established there and its crucial location at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers, Harpers Ferry, was a vital transportation and strategic point for both armies. The Battle of Harpers Ferry, fought from September 12-15, 1862, was a significant Civil War engagement in which Confederate General Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson led a successful assault, resulting in the largest surrender of U.S. troops during the war.
For the invasion of Maryland, Confederate General Robert E. Lee had divided his army (a big risk) to capture Harpers Ferry and secure his supply lines back to Virginia. Union Colonel Dixon S. Miles maintained his main forces in and around Harpers Ferry, but failing to secure the commanding heights surrounding the town. Jackson's forces established themselves on the adjacent (now Bolivar) heights and effectively surrounded the Union garrison. The Confederate force bombarded the hapless Yankees and launched an infantry attack. After a council of war, the Union forces surrendered, with the final arrangements being made by Brigadier General Julius White after Colonel Miles was mortally wounded by a Confederate shell. The battle resulted in the capture of over 12,700 Union troops and 13,000 arms, a record for the largest surrender of U.S. forces in the war. This victory secured Lee's supply lines during the Maryland Campaign and allowed him to continue his northern incursion.Leer más

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Lee was a Brevet Colonel in the United States Army, who had been sent to command a detachment of U.S. Marines to suppress John Brown's raid on the Harpers Ferry arsenal. Lee himself was not a Marine. Lee's troops stormed the arsenal's engine house, capturing Brown and his remaining followers.

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An excellent topographical 'map' constructed to show the 'lay-of-the-land' for army seniors. My red arrows show the railroad at the time and the orange shows where a road bridge stood prior to being carried away by flood waters. The original town was those elements seen extending away left and right from the Potomac River bridge. Immediately below where the B&O tracks emerge from a tunnel, the C&O canal curves around beside and above the river.

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The Harpers Ferry & Potomac Railroad (HF&P) was established in the 1830s to access the Millville Quarry's limestone and bring it to the main line of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad (B&O) in Harpers Ferry. The line is still used.
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- Día 126
- domingo, 17 de agosto de 2025, 0:17
- 🌙 21 °C
- Altitud: 86 m
Estados UnidosWaterbury41°33’28” N 73°3’17” W
Aug 17: The Cradle of The Civil War 6
17 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌙 21 °C
Today is serious. I'm going to visit the scene of the bloodiest combat of the entire American Civil War - Antietam. I've actually been driving backwards through this Civil War saga. If I'd been able, I'd have started in Washington D.C., not ended there as I shall in a couple of days. I'd have recounted how the Confederate army set out to invade the north and how their the subsequent carnage at Antietam resulted in a retreat back to Virginia. And I'd have recounted Lee's second foray into the north and how the loss at Gettysburg precipitated another withdrawal that culminated in the surrender that I portrayed also in Civil War 4.
The drive from Brunswick to Sharpsburg and the Antietam Battleground, through rolling, forested countryside with corn and soybeans thick in the fields is as good a reason as any to be in this area. Frederick County is also known for various specialty crops such as cucumbers, watermelons, sweet corn, tomatoes, melons, squash, and peas, and for dairying (this county apparently leads the state in milk production).
I’m pleased if there are people following my blog who are interested in or even entertained by the content. But the blog is also a personal record for me. I’ve always had an abiding interest in the story of the development of the American republic, especially the 4-year Civil War, and these past couple of weeks have been a wonderful opportunity for me to gain a more practical appreciation of how some of the major episodes in the great ‘Civil War story’ happened and especially ‘what’ happened. So, this history lesson is MY record, created to cement MY understanding. If you enjoy it too, then that’s a bonus for me. For references to the North, you may see me use the terms, ‘Union’, ‘US (United States)’, or Federal. For the South I mostly use ‘Confederate’, ‘Confederacy’, and sometimes ‘Secessionist(s)’.
Jamestown, established on May 14, 1607, on the northeast bank of the James River, about 2½ miles southwest of present-day Williamsburg, VA, was the first permanent English settlement in North America, and became the Colony of Virginia. In 1619 an English sea-captain sold African captives to the colony of Jamestown in exchange for supplies.
Over the next 246 years, the economy of the United States relied on the oppression and unpaid labour of African Americans, but this had never sat comfortably with all colonists and later, many Unionists. As the US expanded during the first half of the 1800s, designated ‘territories’ were being admitted to the nascent Union as states, and tensions mounted. Would the new states continue with slavery or would they outlaw it? Pro- and anti-slavery radicals stoked the fires of conflict. It should be acknowledged that whereas the North had developed--thanks in large part to immigration from Europe--to become an industrial manufacturing powerhouse with employment opportunities for (almost) all, this was not the case in the South. The southern states had developed as an agrarian economy--with large plantations growing crops such as indigo, rice, and cotton--that needed a large manual employment effort which was necessarily satisfied by the introduction of forced labour. This economy had also created a (very) wealthy elite business ownership cadre that, naturally, desired to maintain this status.
In 1859, the abolitionist John Brown failed in his plan to arm enslaved African Americans with weapons stolen from the U.S. armoury in the strategic town of Harpers Ferry, VA. Before they could fulfil their goals, Brown and his group were captured at Harpers Ferry by U.S. Marines under the command of one Colonel Robert E. Lee after barricading themselves in the armoury’s engine house. Lee's U.S. Marines (this was prior to secession and the Civil War) stormed the building, ending the raid and taking Brown and his group captive. Brown was the first of them to be tried and executed. Robert E Lee would later return to Harpers Ferry, but this time, not as the leader of U.S. forces. The debate over slavery is its own story and would ultimately split the nation in two.
Jumping ahead in this many-faceted history, some of the Southern states had seceded from the Union, had established themselves as a ‘Confederacy’, and the Civil War was well under way. In 1861, President Lincoln had appointed General George McClellan as commander of the Military Division of the Potomac, the main Union force responsible for the defence of Washington. Early in his career, McClellan had been opposed to federal interference with slavery, his view being that since slavery was an institution recognised in the Constitution, it (slavery) was entitled to federal protection wherever it existed (note: Lincoln having also held the same public position until August 1862) and he might well have been inveigled by the south to join the Confederacy. Trouble was, he also opposed the concept of secession. Like many Northers he saw the growing nation as having to be totally united as one country in order to be valid and viable.
It is generally acknowledged among Civil War historians—based on his actions and known strategic thinking—that General George McClellan had three key objectives that influenced his campaigns against Lee. They being;
1. To capture the Confederate capital, Richmond
2. To defeat or destroy the Confederate Army of Northern Virginia
3. To ensure that Washington D.C. was protected
These objectives, though, were heavily influenced and mitigated somewhat by his inherent caution and a tendency to overestimate Confederate strength. This latter predisposition was considered to have been strongly influenced by the exaggerated enemy strength estimates made by McClellan’s secret service chief, detective Allan Pinkerton. The resultant extreme caution displayed by McClellan is said to have sapped the initiative of McClellan's army and dismayed the government. So, McClellan was never a favourite of Lincoln, but he was a field commander much admired by his troops, and propitious circumstances saw him eventually promoted to general-in-chief of all the Union armies. A complex character, whose terrific strength of purpose had seen him experience both success and failure in his pre-Civil War military career, McClellan was one of a cadre of military officers of the time who fancied posing for photographers with the pretentious Napoleonic ‘hand-in-the-tunic’ pose. McClellan was not without a healthy ego.
Following a string of victories in the spring and summer of 1862, Confederate General Robert E. Lee decided it was time to carry the war north. In early September, he entered Maryland with 50,000 soldiers, hoping to achieve a decisive victory and end the war. Union forces commanded by General McClellan marched from Washington, D.C. and caught up with Lee's scattered troops on September 14 at the Battle of South Mountain, resulting in a Union victory.
However, McClellan was unable to save the Union garrison at Harpers Ferry that surrendered to Lee's forces on September 15, and the Union victory at South Mountain followed by this Confederate victory at Harpers Ferry led both armies to converge on the town of Sharpsburg, MD, through which ran a stream called Antietam Creek (from a word in the Algonquian language likely meaning "swift water" or "swift-flowing stream"). Here is a précis of the events leading up to the bloody Battle of Antietam;
THE MARYLAND CAMPAIGN - 1862
30 August:
The Confederate forces were victorious at the 2nd Battle of Manassas in northern Virginia and General Lee quickly devised a campaign to take the war into the North. On September 4, Lee and his nearly 50,000-strong Army of Northern Virginia commenced to cross the Potomac River into Maryland. The events of the next 13 days would lead to an epic clash of two great armies at Antietam.
7 September
The Confederate Army of Northern Virginia concentrated its forces in Frederick, MD. General George McClellan, commanding the Union Army of the Potomac, moved out of Washington, D.C. to engage them (remember his objective No. 3 above). Two days later, Lee divided his army to capture the Union garrison at Harpers Ferry. This was a risky gamble that Lee won.
14 September
The Army of the Potomac attacked the Confederates on South Mountain (a forested ridge north of Brunswick and Harpers Ferry), driving them from all three passes. More than 5,000 soldiers were killed, wounded, or went missing on the mountain.
15 September
Twelve thousand Union soldiers at Harpers Ferry surrendered to Confederate Major General Thomas J. "Stonewall" Jackson. Lee therefore moved to concentrate his forces on Antietam Creek near Sharpsburg, MD.
17 September
The battle's first shots were fired in the early morning fog. Heavy fighting resulted in 16,000 casualties by I:00 pm. On the south end of the battlefield, Union soldiers captured a key bridge over Antietam Creek, only to be turned back by the last Confederate soldiers to arrive from Harpers Ferry as the sun set. Nearly 100,000 troops were engaged on this battlefield. After 12 hours of fighting, th ere were approximately 23,000 casualties. Farmer David Miller's cornfield witnessed some of the battle's bloodiest fighting over a span of just three hours starting at dawn. Regiments on both sides suffered great losses. Over 60 percent of Confederate General Harry T. Hays' Louisiana Brigade became casualties in just 30 minutes of action. Union forces claimed victory despite heavy losses. I could describe how the prevailing manner of combat in the field during this era was conducted, but that isn't a necessary subject for this blog.
[Note: "Casualty" does not necessarily equal "dead". Casualties include three categories: dead, wounded, and missing or captured. In general terms, casualties of Civil War battles included 20 percent dead and 80 percent wounded. About one out of seven wounded soldiers died from his wounds. Over two-thirds of the 622,000 men who gave their lives in the Civil War died from disease, not from battle. Because of the catastrophic nature of the Battle of Antietam, exact casualty numbers were impossible to compile.]
18 September
Beaten at Antietam, Lee began his retreat back to Virginia.
19-20 September
Union forces pursued and attacked Lee's army retreating across the Potomac River into Virginia. The Confederates turned at Shepherdstown and counterattacked the following day, halting the Union pursuit. This battle was the final engagement of Lee's unfortunate 1st Maryland Campaign.
The Battle of Antietam, followed by Lee's withdrawal to Virginia, was the decisive moment Abraham Lincoln had been waiting for. It also satisfied General McClelland's 2nd goal (see my previous reference above). Five days after the battle, on 22 September, the President issued the preliminary Emancipation Proclamation declaring freedom for enslaved people in areas under rebellion if the Confederacy did not rejoin the United States by the end of the year. The preliminary Emancipation Proclamation gave the Confederate states 100 days to peaceably return to the United States or face a direct assault on the institution of slavery, which would undermine the southern economy and its society. When the South failed to return by January 1, 1863, the Emancipation Proclamation went into effect, declaring “free all enslaved people within any State or designated part of a State, the people whereof shall then be in rebellion against the United States." From the moment that the Emancipation Proclamation was officially issued, the war for Union was inseparable from the war to end human bondage.
Thus, the war evolved from a struggle to preserve the Union into a fight to end slavery and reunite the country. The Proclamation also allowed thousands of African Americans to enlist in the US Army and Navy and fight for their own freedom. Slavery died along with the Confederacy in 1865, but the fight for equality had only just begun.
ABOUT THE BATTLE OF ANTIETAM - some notes
Canister ammunition was lethal at close range, as the can tore apart when fired and the deadly iron balls blasted enemy troops like a giant shotgun shell. Cannon fired approximately 50,000 rounds of artillery during the battle - close to 3,000 rounds per hour. Spherical ammunition fired from these weapons devastated its targets. Some shot was solid, while some carried iron balls and gunpowder inside their metal shells. The addition of rifled grooves inside muskets gave bullets a spin, increasing their range and accuracy. Both Confederate and U.S. forces used this ammunition during the Civil War.
"There was a sense of impending doom. We knew--everyone knew--that two great armies of 80,000 men were lying there face to face, only waiting for dawn to begin the battle. It gave a terrible sense of oppression."
Nurse CLARA BARTON (who later established the American red Cross Society), described the night before the Battle of Antietam.
“To those who have not been witnesses of a great battle like this, where more than a hundred thousand men ... are engaged in the work of slaughtering each other, it is impossible by the power of words to convey an adequate idea of its terrible sublimity.”
JOHN G. WALKER, Major General, CSA, Longstreet's Command
“The slaughter was more awful than anything I ever read of... there is no place which you can stand and not see the field black with dead bodies as far as the eye can reach.”
HENRY ROPES, Lieutenant, 20th Massachusetts Infantry, letter to his father, September 20, 1862
“If slavery is not broken, the war will last long, supported and fed by it - and the loss of life on both sides will be frightful.”
HUGH B. EWING, Colonel, 30th Ohio Infantry, August 10, 1862
Drummers, buglers, and fifers all played on the battlefields of the Civil War. Drummers marched to the right of a marching column and had to learn 38 different beats - 14 for general use and 24 for marching pace.
“The courage and heroism of Negro citizens [today] is only a further effort to affirm that democratic heritage so painfully won upon the grassy battlefields of Antietam, Lookout Mountain, and Gettysburg.”
MARTIN LUTHER KING JR., writing to President John F. Kennedy, May 17, 1962
The 13th Amendment to the United States Constitution freed millions of African Americans from slavery at the end of 1865. But freedom is not the same thing as equality. The Constitution's 14th and 15th Amendments provided equal protection under federal law and ensured Black voting rights. Following the end of Reconstruction, White southerners instituted campaigns of local, terror (think of the Ku Klux Klan) and passed "Jim Crow" laws that restricted the civil rights of Black Americans and created a segregated society. Even so, African Americans have continued to demand their rights as citizens and fight for equal treatment.
The losses at Antietam were enormous. Deceased soldiers lay across a five-mile stretch of cornfields, woods, and roads. Burial crews dug hasty graves - burying some soldiers alone, and others in mass trenches. The Roulette family had over 700 soldiers buried on their farm. Wild pigs soon began rooting through the shallow graves and heavy rainfall also washed away the earthen cover. Hundreds of dead horses were dragged into piles and burnt... the fires lasting for weeks. Some of the equine bone remains were even repurposed! (look this up yourself). As the national media reported on the devastation at Antietam, loved ones wrote letters seeking to find out if soldiers they knew had been injured, gone missing, or lived to fight another day.
PRESERVING THE BATTLEFIELD
“When we look on yon battlefield, I think of the brave men who fell in the fierce struggle of battle, and who sleep silent in their graves.”
PRESIDENT ANDREW JOHNSON, dedicating Antietam National Cemetery, September 17, 1867
Antietam National Cemetery was the first land preserved at the battlefield and reflected how divided the nation was. The Maryland legislation that created the cemetery allowed for the burial of US and Confederate soldier remains. Lasting bitterness over the conflict, combined with the devastated South's inability to raise funds, resulted in a decision to bury only Federal soldiers there. Cemeteries in Frederick, Hagerstown, and Shepherdstown hold Confederate soldier remains. In addition to Civil War dead, soldiers and veterans who fought in later wars are also buried there. These include African American soldiers from World Wars I and II, some of whom were laid to rest in segregated areas of the cemetery. I saw these groups of ‘segregated’ graves at Antietam.
On August 30, 1890, Congress set aside funding for the United States War Department to "preserve" and "mark" the lines of battle at Antietam. The US War Department managed this landscape until August 10, 1933, when it transferred the site to the Department of the Interior. Together, these federal organisations transformed the battlefield by adding roads, commemorative tablets, monuments, an observation tower, and a superb visitor centre. Today, the National Park Service continues to maintain this site to preserve the historic battlefield and its legacy.
There are almost 100 monuments at Antietam National Battlefield. Built primarily by Northern states and veterans in the late 1800s and early 1900s to commemorate their sacrifices here, the monuments are often located exactly where the troops fought during the battle. The site's handful of Confederate monuments were erected in the 20th century, mainly during the Civil War Centennial in the 1960’s.
“There are no better teachers for those who come after us than the silent monuments on the battlefields.”
WELLS SPONABLE [Spanneknabel], Major, dedicating the 34th New York Monument, 1902
I drove around the extensive battlefield, with explanations of the specific sites of combat conveyed via a bluetooth CarPlay connection. It was a solemn personal tour.
AFTERMATH OF THE BATTLE
For the civilians living in this area, the traumatic events at Antietam lasted long after the fighting ended. They had to overcome financial and material losses, disruptions to their livelihoods, and fear of the ongoing war. Bodies and debris covered the landscape. Farmers ploughed up shells and bullets. Houses and barns took damage and bore battle scars.
“Every building that is suitable is filled with wounded. The farms between here and there are completely desolated - fences and trees destroyed and everything moveable and of value stolen.
DR. WILLIAM CHILD, September 30, 1862
THE COMPOSITION OF A CIVIL WAR ARMY
Regiment:
Colonel + 800 soldiers
Brigade:
Brigadier General + 2,600 soldiers
There were 2-5 regiments in a brigade
Division:
Major General + 8,000 soldiers
There were 2-4 x brigades in a division
Corp:
Major General + 26,000 soldiers
There were 2-3 x divisions in a corp
Army:
Major General + 80,000 soldiers
From www.battlefields.org;Leer más

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A Converging Storm of Iron. Confederate Col. Stephen D. Lee placed his battalion of nineteen cannons here. Throughout the morning, Union infantry and artillery aimed their attacks towards the high ground and the Dunker Church. Twenty-five percent of his men were killed or wounded and sixty of his horses killed. Later, when he remembered that terrible morning, Lee wrote, "A converging storm of iron slammed into the batteries from front and flank. Wheels were smashed, men knocked down, horses sent screaming. To stay in the field was to sacrifice units needlessly." In this b&w photo taken by the only photographer who visited the battlefield, Alexander Gardner (and assistant James Gibson), the entire gun crew are dead (and have been laid out ready for burial) as is a horse. Only the limber and ammunition chest remain whole.

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This plaque correctly shows three horsemen, each in charge of two horses (6 horses usually pulled a gun and limber, but sometimes 4 were used). The relief also shows 3 gun-crew members riding the limber, which would not normally be the case unless speed of movement was required over a short distance.The gun crew would normally walk behind the artillery piece. Once the piece was in place, the horsemen would retire with the horses to a rearward place of appropriate safety. During artillery action, the horsemen would be engaged in moving the limber and caisson as required to maintain a supply of both ammunition and water. Note that water was required for the barrel to be 'sponged out' after each firing to ensure there were no sparks to ignite the next powder charge that would be ready to be pushed down the barrel.
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- Día 125
- sábado, 16 de agosto de 2025, 23:56
- 🌙 21 °C
- Altitud: 198 m
Estados UnidosTorrington41°48’50” N 73°6’45” W
Aug 14-15: The Cradle of The Civil War 4
16 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌙 21 °C
I revisited the incredible Mariner’s Museum on Friday morning, to ensure I’d done it justice (Warning: non-Civil War/tech interested people will have to scan through yet another maritime museum photo essay… sorry), and drove out of Newport News around 11:00 with a heavy heart as, once again, I knew I was going to miss out on seeing many historical Civil War sites as well as many of those critical to the earlier War of Independence. But to have done Newport News justice, I’d have needed a week here.
I headed northwest on I-64 for Richmond, tuned into 96.3 WROV - The Rock Of Virginia, but—once again—was going to have to choose between stopping and spending time in museums and at various locations v reaching certain special locations AND covering the ground to at least view the general areas these armies moved through. So, Richmond was also placed on my ‘Next Time’ list, right below Newport News. Richmond has always fascinated me through having been the Confederate capital during the war and being so close to the Union capital, which was, of course, Washington D.C.
So, I took to the network of freeways and tollways that enables truckers and people like me to circumvent Richmond, and headed west on US-360 for the villages of Amelia and Appomattox and to see what I could of the ‘Appomattox Campaign’.
Amelia County was a central area for Virginia's enslaved population, highlighting the region's importance to the Confederate economy and social structure. Following the fall of Richmond and Petersburg after a 10-month siege by the Northerners, Amelia Court House was the chosen location for the Army of Northern Virginia (the Confederate army) to reunite and resupply. Amelia's location was strategic because it lay along Lee's intended line of retreat to the west and south, making it a critical point for consolidating his scattered forces. General Lee had ordered a supply train full of provisions to meet his troops at Farmville, near Amelia. This was a crucial step in his plan to retreat south and link up with other Confederate forces, however the train was raided by the Yankees (Union army) and never arrived.
Farmville became a focal point during Lee's Retreat (a) due to its railroad and supply depots and its strategic location, (b) the critical High Bridge crossing the Appomattox River, (at the time one of the longest in the world and a crucial natural barrier in Lee's escape route), and (c) the desperate struggle for supplies and a chance to escape the closing Union net. Lee had hoped to secure much-needed provisions for his exhausted and hungry troops before continuing westward to join forces with General Johnston. Lee's failure to secure and destroy the bridge at Farmville significantly hampered his ability to prolong the fight and contributed to his eventual surrender just days later.
Note that the words ‘Court House’ often figure in this era in the name of a Virginian town. Thus, both Amelia and Appomattox were officially at that time designated Amelia Court House and Appomattox Court House.
March 29, 1865, is generally considered to have been the beginning of the Appomattox Campaign. On that date, Grant opened his spring offensive against Lee’s army by ordering Major General Philip Sheridan’s cavalry (freshly returned from the Shenandoah Valley) and Major General G. K. Warren’s 5th Corps to attempt to turn Lee’s right flank at the Battle of Lewis’s Farm. Two days later the action resumed at the Battle of White Oak Road and the Battle of Dinwiddie Court House as Lee attempted to shore up his right wing to halt the federal flanking manoeuver. On April 1, Sheridan and Warren continued their offensive, with another major victory over Confederate forces at the Battle of Five Forks. Losing that strategic crossroads further threatened Lee’s already limited supply lines.
Encouraged by these Union victories, Grant ordered a general assault on Confederate entrenchments, and Lee realised he could no longer hold the Yankees back. He advised Confederate President Jefferson Davis to prepare to leave Richmond. As Lee abandoned his defenses around Richmond, three minor engagements took place during the next three days – one of them at Amelia Springs.
Two days later, another cavalry engagement erupted north of Amelia Springs. Three brigades of Confederate cavalry counterattacked Union cavalry about three miles north of Amelia Springs. One of the Union cavalry brigades was returning from a raid on the Confederates’ supply train near Painesville, just to the north. The two cavalry forces fought a running battle through Amelia Springs almost to Jetersville (which I also drove through), six miles southwest of Amelia Court House, where Lee planned to concentrate his army. The initial phase of the battle was inconclusive until Union reinforcements arrived, prompting the Confederates to withdraw back to Amelia Springs. Later that night and during the morning of April 6, Union forces fought another minor and inconclusive battle against the Confederate rearguard. The Battle of Amelia Springs accomplished little other than to force Lee’s army to detour around Jetersville on its journey to Amelia Court House.
After realising he wasn’t going to be able to provision his men at Farmville, General Lee moved to cross the Appomattox River at High Bridge, 4.5 miles north, and continue his westward retreat. On April 6, 1865, just three days before the surrender at Appomattox Court House, nearly a quarter of Lee’s army—more than 7,700 men—were killed, wounded or captured at the battle of Saylor’s Creek (also known as Sailor’s Creek). Then, on April 7, they fought to destroy the bridge to stop Union forces from following them. Union troops, however, managed to save the bridge and crossed the river, continuing their relentless pursuit of Lee. This was a critical failure for the Confederates and sealed their fate in Virginia.
I could not stop to drive into High Bridge to inspect the area. I’ve added a borrowed image from the interweb to show what the bridge was like when built in 1854 by the Southside Railroad. It was over 2,400 ft long, double-decked (a wagon roadway below), stood 125 feet above the Appomattox River, and rested on 21 hollow brick pillars. If I’d gone in there, I’d have seen a steel structure erected in 1914 adjacent to the pillars of the original and now part of a Rail Trail.
Anyway, after skirting Richmond, I got off the freeway in time to drive through and around the small town of Amelia and knew I was on the right track as soon as I saw the first roadside marker denoting “Lee’s Retreat”. This label refers generally to the Confederate Army's withdrawal from Gettysburg in July 1863. Following his defeat there, General Lee recognised the need to withdraw his army from Pennsylvania and embarked upon the subsequent southward retreat back through Maryland into Virginia, described above. The route march was marked by difficult conditions, including heavy rain and the need to transport a large number of wounded soldiers. These logistical challenges can scarcely be imagined. Can you imagine the number of horses, wagons, and the sheer amount of feed needed to transport these casualties? This retreat would conclude with the surrender of the Army of Northern Virginia to General Ulysses S. Grant at Appomattox Court House on April 9, 1865. Much of Lee’s route can be followed to Appomattox.
The original village of Appomattox Court House (which later burnt down) has been reconstructed on the exact location. The Court House is now an excellent Visitor Centre and museum with interpretive displays and a theatre with regular screenings of an explanatory video. It is quite an emotional experience to wander around that village and enter the private household of Wilmer McLean that was ‘borrowed’ that day to facilitate the meeting between the two generals and the signing of the surrender documents. President Lincoln had ordered that the Confederate troops were not to be humiliated and some of the terms of surrender that General Grant presented to General Lee included that the Confederate troops would hand in their weapons (but that officers and others who had arms they owned—which many did—could retain them), that all troops would be paroled to return to their homes and not imprisoned, that food and medical aid would be made available immediately, and—after a request from Lee—that officers and troops who owned horses and mules could keep them. The 4-year War Between the States was over; the nation (largely) rejoiced.
Two days later an assassin shot President Lincoln in the head.
I looked around some of the surrounding areas that had seen combat and had been kept in much the same floral condition as existed at the time, so it was easy to imagine the troop movements over the open fields and through the wooded portions and the skirmishes that developed.
I finally had to leave, and headed north on US-29, bypassing Lynchburg (and more Civil War learning), and onto US-60 up onto the Blue Ridge. This enabled me to access a short, middle portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway for a 1½-hr winding road trip of about 65 miles to Waynesboro, my destination for the evening. The Blue Ridge Parkway is a scenic road that connects—if you’re travelling south-to-north—the Great Smoky Mountains National Park down in Tennessee to Shenandoah National Park in Virginia.
I caught enticing glimpses of many terrific views but only stopped to investigate one. I figured I would see many more tomorrow when I traversed the full length of the northern portion of the parkway through the Shenandoah National Park, a 105-mile twisting jaunt along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains, called the Skyline Drive. In my view, a visitor could not possibly come to these parts without doing these two drives (and in the Fall would be even better).
Having left Appomattox, my one stop on the Blue Ridge Parkway might easily have been my last. I stopped to view a lookout and as I trudged along a grass trail leading up to it, I wondered what the hissy rattle was that I could hear. I looked down and saw what I now think was a timber rattlesnake, one of two venomous species in Shenandoah National Park. I expleted appropriately, jumped about 3 feet in the air and 6 feet laterally, and took a photo of the beast for Google Images. It was a very relieved explorer who drove down off the Blue Ridge that evening and into Waynesboro.Leer más

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View is along the Richmond-Lynchburg stagecoach road that ran past the McLean house. Compare with the next image.

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I don't know what the assembly with spring and probe attached to the propellor tailshaft is. The principle of galvanic corrosion and protection for propellors etc had yet to be discovered.
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- Día 125
- sábado, 16 de agosto de 2025, 3:54
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitud: 198 m
Estados UnidosTorrington41°48’50” N 73°6’45” W
Aug 16: The Cradle of The Civil War 5
16 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
"Almost Heaven, West Virginia
Blue Ridge Mountain, Shenandoah River..."
Well... I've strummed this tune and sang these words countless times since 1971 (not always while stone cold sober I might say, and not always in A Major (as stipulated by Mr Deutschendorf Jr). And the area scarcely touches West Virginia. But no matter; here I am, deep in it anyway.
It should be an easy day today. I depart Waynesboro, where the outside temperature is already over 80. In short order, I'm through the South Entrance Station at Rockfish Gap, where the friendly man in the 'Ranger Smith' hat takes my $20, gives me some brochures and advice, and sends me on my way on Skyline Drive. There won't be too many photos today. I encourage anyone even remotely interested to Google 'Skyline Drive'.
I wend and wind my way up into elevation and am soon able to see the views. I'm cautious though, as there's more than 80 Overlook sites, all with excellent, paved, highway pull-offs, and I do not intend to pull into all of them. After all, the views are always the same, aren't they? Only different. The speed limit is 35 mph, but not all motorists adhere to that. I mostly do. The road is beautifully paved and the curves canted. 90% of the 105 miles is curves, and I love it! The Appalachian Trail is nearby, and criss-crosses the highway frequently. There are cyclists on the road, no doubt building up their mountain climbing muscles for the next Tour de France.
The highway climbs and descends as it traverses the crest (mostly) of the Blue Ridge. We are in the Shenandoah National Park and most of the views are to the west, down into the beautiful Shenandoah Valley. There's a lot about this drive that reminds me of the Dandenong Range near my hometown of Melbourne, Australia.
I am mostly on the move and the only wildlife I encounter are some deer grazing on the roadside, who look up to see who's interrupting them, but don't move away as I drive past. There are quite a few cars and RVs (caravans) on the road and the main servicing and picnic/camping areas and RV parks look to be popular. The park has a lot of trails, as well as the main one I've already mentioned. About 500 miles, I believe.
The temperature drops to around 77 deg at the 3,700-ft elevation where I do stop to check on the view. Although beautifully surfaced, the road is narrow, and I'm unnerved by the many Outlook pull-offs on my left that are on blind corners where--in order to get to them--you have to dart across the oncoming lane before someone comes flying around and collects you.
It's an exhilarating and stimulating drive, and I enjoy every beautifully banked curve. I'm just a little sad when I descend at Front Range and look for the signs to Brunswick, the closest place to Harpers Ferry that I can find a Holiday Inn. Tomorrow, back to the Civil War.Leer más

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Seen close beyond the left-hand tree is the northern tip of the adjacent George Washington National Park.

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The forested hills are the southern extremity of the George Washington National Park which parallels the Shenandoah. Lee's Army of North Virginia marched up the length of the valley--16 miles per day--as he made for Maryland, with the Union army shadowing him on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge.
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- Día 123
- jueves, 14 de agosto de 2025, 11:40
- ☁️ 30 °C
- Altitud: 5 m
Estados UnidosNorfolk36°50’34” N 76°17’11” W
Aug 12-13: The Cradle of The Civil War 3
14 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
The vague idea I’d had that I’d like to be able to stroll through the Civil War heartland at my leisure and visit every place that took my fancy, is well and truly dispelled and this realisation has meant that I have to keep moving. Another major factor is the weather. The rain has followed me from Savannah, and ‘outside’ locations are not fun in pouring rain. The reason for having headed across to Fayetteville was as a launching place to visit the Battle of Bentonville location as part of a run-up to getting further north to Newport News.
The above battle was high on my mental list of priorities because the Confederate loss and surrender there in March 1865 presaged the overall Southern (Army of Northern Virginia) surrender to Union General Ulysses S. Grant a few weeks later. Later, I intend to drive from Newport News to Richmond and from there (hopefully) to be able to visit the site of the surrender in the town of Appomattox (I presume it’s grown to become a town by now).
I had walked up to the Holiday Inn in Fayetteville (the mother of all army towns) as a member without reservation. They said, yes, you’ve got the last Standard Room. I said, “wow, you’re fully booked?” The receptionist said, “Yes, the local military keep us booked. Military personnel usually choose to stay here rather than in barracks on base. The local military usually have us booked out.” Being the argumentative bastard that I am, I pleaded, “why don’t they stay on base? The response from the receptionist was, “Them baa-acks at Bragg not nice.” 😂😂
An interesting note about Fort Bragg: The base was initially established as Camp Bragg in 1918 as an artillery training ground because it had suitable terrain, adequate water, rail facilities, and a climate suitable for year-round training. It was originally named after Braxton Bragg, a former U.S. Army artillery commander and West Point graduate who later became a well-known Confederate general during the American Civil War. In 2023, the U.S. Department of Defense renamed the installation "Fort Liberty" due to controversy surrounding memorials to Confederate generals. In February 2025, the army changed the name of the installation back to "Fort Bragg", but now in honor of World War II paratrooper Roland L. Bragg.
The next day, I drove from Fayetteville to Newton Grove in heavy rain and from there to the Bentonville battleground. They have a nicely appointed Visitor Centre at the site, so I launched my trusty brolly, and splashed across to it from the Jeep. That was certainly worth the effort and the $20 donation I left with them. I watched their 15-min video (excellent distillation of the start and end of the war), inspected their museum display (also excellent), and decided that driving around the area, which now—of course—looks different to when the combat occurred here, was not worth it in the rain.
I wanted to get into the city of Newport News prior to dusk, so, as the heavy rain continued, I departed for the famous I-95. When I could see around me in clear weather, I enjoyed observing the household architectural differences to those in Australia and NZ. So many neat homes sitting on manicured lawns, without fence or hedge enclosures and often minimal gardens. I was also impressed by the sheer number of churches; I think predominantly Baptist. They’re EVERYWHERE… and most are modern-looking buildings and look as if they’re built to accommodate large congregations. Is this what the ‘bible-belt’ we hear of looks like?
The rain came and went as I drove north to Emporia, but the GPS estimate of my arrival time just after 6:00 pm was accurate as I emerged suddenly—with some surprise—from the surrounding verdant roadside foliage onto the 4.6-mile Monitor-Merrimac Memorial Bridge and Tunnel. Why Ms GPS brought me in this way and not via US-17 and the James River Bridge (since I was headed for a destination near the town centre), I do not know and will have to interrogate her later. But I was almost ‘there’, and it was with a sense of relief that I looked down at the water of Hampton Roads, surging ocean-bound on an ebb tide with about the same rate of flow as my hometown Clutha River.
How did Newport News get its strange name? Wikipedia states that the original area near the mouth of the James River was first referred to as Newportes Newes as early as 1621. The source of the name Newport News is not known with certainty, though it is the oldest English city name in the Americas. Several versions are recorded, and it is the subject of popular local speculation.
I have been asked to make contact with a local museum curator, and—having established in Savannah a newfound respect for such creative professionals—I do so. The lady is rushed off her feet with her work and the challenges of getting a daughter off to college (‘university’, to us), but she makes time for us to meet over a drink at a craft brewery not too far from my hotel. We have a wonderful chat. She’s curious as to how and why I’m in Newport News and I’m curious about everything to do with her 😁. She is also unashamedly (and emotionally) fearful about what the USA is becoming under President Trump. She's the first American I've had a meaningful conversation with where we've openly addressed this question. Today Trump has sent troops into Washington D.C. and has plans to extend this activity to other cities. I think a lot of Americans must be holding their breath.
Tomorrow, I’ll give the Mariner’s Museum a serious once-over. Newport News has a lot of Civil War history, and—my curator friend informs me—even more Revolutionary War history. The city sits on the Virginia Peninsula (sometimes called the Lower Peninsula because it’s the southernmost of three major peninsulas in southeastern Virginia), bounded by the York River, James River, Hampton Roads, and Chesapeake Bay. Just look at the placenames; Yorktown… Williamsburg. Once again, I’m going to have to ‘skim through’ here if I’m to manage the next five days.Leer más

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Zoom in for detail. The numbers in brackets refer to casualties from that unit.
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- Día 120
- lunes, 11 de agosto de 2025, 23:09
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Altitud: 239 m
Estados UnidosCharlotte35°13’47” N 80°50’35” W
Aug 11: The Cradle of The Civil War 2
11 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
And a railroad story. No photos, except for a couple of illustrations and a story to illustrate a gut-wrenching piece of misfortune that befell me today. More on that below.
After a very pleasant drive from Savannah (but more enjoyable once off the freeway) I spent the night in Athens, GA, which is not without its own connections to the American Civil War. I did fail to go to Milledgeville, which I could have easily. That was a mistake. I'll have to do this again!
That evening, as I studied my maps, it became clear to me that (A) I'd travelled west when I probably should have gone a bit more NORTH-west, and (B) if I was going to get to the places I wanted to visit and see the scenery on the way, I'd better get cracking, since I only had 8 days to complete this exercise and get back to D.C.
With this imperitive in mind, I knew that a trip to Gainesville to see Confederate General James Longstreet's retirement house was out of the question. So, I had a hotel breakfast, visited the museum, and saddled up sometime after midday for a 350-mile, 5½ drive under a lowering sky from Athens, GA, to Fayetteville, NC, via Anderson (stop), then via the freeways (and one not-so-free-way) around Spartanburg and through Charlotte (plus a fuel stop somewhere), then US Route-74 around Monroe and Rockingham, then from Laurinburg up US-401 and into Fayetteville.
After leaving Anderson, the clouds descended and torrential rain lashed those of us on I-85, and continued sporadically all the way to Fayetteville. Thus, with the time constraint and the need to drive to Fayetteville on a Monday, I missed visiting the National Railroad Museum & Hall of Fame at Hamlet, NC, as it's closed, isn't it, like so many other things on a Monday? At least, using the Rockingham Bypass and not having to stop for the railroad museum considerably streamlined my run to Fayetteville.
So, tomorrow it's over toward Newton Grove to visit the site of the Battle of Bentonville (in which the South were defeated by the North and which preceded Lee's surrender to the Union army by a few weeks, and thus the end of 4 years of Civil War) and then onto US-258 for Newport News, VA, where I hope someone might show me around the Maritime Museum.Leer más

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Said to be ‘one of the only Queen Anne Victorian train stations in North Carolina (yes, really! ‘Queen Anne Victorian’, believe it or not, is a recognised architectural style), I’d say it’d have to be one of a very few in the whole USA. Hamlet, NC, was the division headquarters for the Seaboard Airline Railroad (name changed to Seaboard Coast Line after a merger with rival Atlantic Coast Line in 1967) at the crossing of two tracks. With multiple lines radiating out from the city, the town was a key location on the SAL's network. Around 30 passenger trains a day are stated to have passed through the town, a status that earned it the nickname "Hub of the Seaboard". Today, the former SAL/SCL routes through Hamlet are operated by CSX Transportation (which is quite another railroad merger story!). The depot was restored to its original form in 2004, The Seaboard routes that intersected at Hamlet included: The Main Line: A route that stretched from Richmond, VA, to Tampa, FL, running through Raleigh, NC, Columbia, SC, Savannah, GA, and Jacksonville, FL. A line to Atlanta, GA, and Birmingham, AL: Connecting with the main line at Hamlet, this line provided access to these key Southern cities. A line from Norlina, NC, to Portsmouth, VA: This was the earliest route of what became the Seaboard and connected Hamlet to the Virginia port city. A line to Wilmington, NC: The Wilmington Subdivision extended from Hamlet to the port at Wilmington. A line to Charleston, SC: This route diverged from the main line at Hamlet, providing an alternate path to Charleston.

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These intersecting lines made Hamlet a pivotal location for the Seaboard Air Line, facilitating the movement of both passengers and freight across the Southeastern United States. Six sets of tracks still crisscross in front of the station (these are referred to as ‘diamond crossings’), and a 2020 article in Trains magazine states that the depot is one of the most photographed train stations in the eastern United States. Not hard to understand. The ’air line’ (note, not ‘airline’) moniker refers to a line drawn straight through the air from one point on a map to another; ‘as the crow flies’, in other words. It originated as a marketing department ploy to differentiate the railroad’s long stretches of tangent track--especially across the Carolina ‘low country’--from the curves and grades of rival railroads. Because of the straight track, the SAL RR claimed that both passengers and freight had a smoother, safer, ride 😄
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- Día 119
- domingo, 10 de agosto de 2025, 22:17
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitud: 319 m
Estados UnidosAtlanta33°44’55” N 84°23’14” W
Aug 8-10: The Cradle of The Civil War 1
10 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
BLOG: "A regularly updated website or web page, typically one run by an individual or small group, that is written in an informal or conversational style". (Dictionary).
I have received some gentle feedback that I say too much in some of the blogs. But a Blog is diaristic... not a Facebook post. The nature of my content is about to change for a while, as I'll be on the move and not wandering around taking a lot of photos.
From the early days of the Revolutionary War, the occupants of colonial North America knew that you can never have too many forts. Especially on the east coast, their nascent ports were important to the development of colonial civilisation and, especially once the Civil War started, needed to be protected from outsiders bent on acquiring 'adverse possession'. So, I've visited a few (and reported on them here), but I'm not going to continue to describe the same thing and display the same images over again. Therefore, I'll report that I've seen Forts McAllister, Jackson, and Pulaski, and that you can find out all you want--if you're interested--by Googling them (and I heartily recommend that you do!).
I also visited the museum at the Savannah Visitor Centre (the original Central of Georgia train station)... and spent a very worthwhile hour.
Georgia was one of the original seven slave states that formed the Confederate States of America in February 1861, triggering the U.S. Civil War, and this has led to my focus in these southern parts. My time in Savannah, though, has necessarily come to an end, and it's time to hit the road back to Washington D.C. by way of the Civil War hinterland.
Departing Savannah on Interstate 16, I head west for an hour, but not too far. Although my interest in the American Civil War absolutely includes General Sherman's wholly infamous 'March to the Sea" (you should Google this too) in which he led 55,000 infantry, 5,000 cavalry, and 2,000 artillerymen with 64 guns from Atlanta to capture Savannah (plus 2,500 supply wagons and 600 ambulances, and seized about 5,000 horses and 4,000 mules during the campaign!!!) , laying waste to all of Georgia that he passed through--which will never be forgiven by Georgians--I'm not interested in going to Atlanta in 2025. I would love to have been there, on a hill to watch Sherman's force move out, but I prefer a more quiet life as I 'follow the Civil war' north. So I turn off the freeway to follow US-1 and State Hwy-17 north to Athens for the night. This places me, serendipitously, on the Civil War Heartland Leaders Trail. I do take time to drive off the highway, including 3 miles down a dirt road, to visit the site of the Kettle Creek Battle, fought during the War of Revolution.
So, I have to hit the road. I have 8 days to cover too much history and scenery before I have to catch a fast train in D.C. to take me to Boston, MA. I'll blog whatever I can manage.
Bring the good old bugle boys, we'll sing another song!
Sing it with the spirit that will start the world along!
Sing it as we used to sing it, 50,000 strong!
While we were marching through Georgia!
Hurrah! Hurrah! We bring the jubilee!
Hurrah! Hurrah! The flag that makes you free!
So we sang that chorus from Atlanta to the sea!
While we were marching through Georgia!Leer más

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What could be called another ‘Great St. Valentine’s Day Massacre’, the Battle of Kettle Creek was fought between British loyalists (also known as Tories) and Georgian patriots on February 14, 1779, in Wilkes County, near present-day Washington, GA. The British had gained some control in Georgia, and loyalists were emboldened to support the Crown. A loyalist militia marched to join the British forces in Augusta, but a group of patriots intercepted and decisively defeated them. The 256-acre site is now preserved as the Kettle Creek Battlefield, a testament to the battle and its historical significance. “The importance of the battle showed the determination of the Southern Patriots and was a reminder to the Loyalist forces that they were not safe in the open country, away from the British bases and army. In many ways the Revolutionary War was a civil war, with loyalist militia forming whenever the British Army arrived in force. Loyalist units were particularly active in fighting in the Middle and Southern colonies. While never a majority of the colonial population, they consisted of a strong minority. After the Revolutionary War, an estimated 20% of loyalists moved to Canada, where they were compensated for their losses by the British government.

ViajeroKeep up the flow Ferg. I don't want to swell your ego but it been a great read SO FAR!!!

ViajeroNo, no GV. Swell me away as much as you like. My ego loves a good massage, just like my shoulders. Don't hold back!
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- Día 119
- domingo, 10 de agosto de 2025, 0:10
- 🌧 24 °C
- Altitud: 12 m
Estados UnidosSavannah32°5’8” N 81°5’47” W
Aug 6-8: Tatts, tiny ships, & touring
10 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌧 24 °C
I met a creative native of Savannah on the train; a talented museum curator, historian, and a published woman of letters (whose father had been a railroad locomotive engineer 😃). She generously invited me to a presentation she was giving at the Maritime Museum on the nautical influence on tattooing and some of the artists around Savannah who do it. We heard a description of the artists, the work they did and how they got started, and the nautical 'language' of sailor's tattoos (many of these illustrations have a shared meaning among seafarers). We also received a guided tour of the museum that ignited my passion for detail when I saw the brilliance and beauty of the models on display and read the history of each vessel - most of them having been early passenger vessels that plied the east coast or were part of Civil War and pre-war merchant marine fleets and navies.
There's also a few images that I hope will serve to depict the Savannah that I've enjoyed so much these past few days.Leer más

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Every detail is revealed; boilers, engines, coal-spaces, living quarters, guns and gun crews, and the very structure of the vessel, designed (not always successfully) to withstand the enemy's shot and shell. Someshells and cannonballs bounced off these vessels... others did not, especially when the warring sides developed explosive shells.

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"A beautiful luxury hotel at JW Marriott, Savannah, Georgia. You'll never see all the wonderful wonders. A hotel inside a museum. Welcome to Plant Riverside District, Savannah’s dynamic urban entertainment destination. Immerse yourself in a vibrant mix of dining, nightlife, and shopping along the scenic Savannah Riverfront. Whether you are a Savannah resident looking to spend an entertaining evening out or celebrate a special occasion, a tourist exploring our historic Hostess City, or traveling on business to one of the oldest cities in the South, Plant Riverside offers a unique experience for everyone. Discover Plant Riverside District, a central hub for cultural explorations, social gatherings, exciting nightlife, and recreational activities. Select your favorite from a wide range of culinary experiences, enjoy live music in the District Live concert hall or along the riverwalk, shop in our unique boutiques and specialty stores, stay in luxury rooms at the JW Marriott®, celebrate special moments in our stunning event spaces, and discover history and culture within our art exhibits."

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The grilled cabbage was delish, too! Thompson Savannah by Hyatt, East Wharf.
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- Día 114
- martes, 5 de agosto de 2025
- ☁️ 32 °C
- Altitud: 12 m
Estados UnidosSavannah32°5’8” N 81°5’47” W
Aug 5: Of redoubts and railroads
5 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C
A wander through local history today. I came to the Georgia/South Carolina Low Countries out of an interest in the American Civil War, southern railroads in that era, and aspects around slavery. Today, I had a look at some Savannah history. Most things don't open here until 10:00 am, so there's no sense in getting up early and 'getting going', as there's nowhere except breakfast restaurants to go to. By 10:00 the heat is on and if there's any cloud, the humidity is up there too, so if you're walking around (I did 8,500 steps this day) you can really only manage 1 or 2 'things' before you want to return to the cool of your hotel I've got the car, but don't want to use that around central Savannah and the historic precinct in which my hotel is located.
So, herewith, some history (including some from 'that other war'... the War of BRITISH Aggression).Leer más

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This battle occurred during the Siege of Savannah on October 9, 1779, which was aimed at retaking Savannah from the British. With the approach of an allied French and American (local militia) army, the British defenders constructed a series of 14 redoubts and cannon emplacements outside the town. The attack and was one of the bloodiest engagements of the war. The British troops were protected inside the redoubt, and their musket and cannon fire could sweep the space between the redoubts. When a breakthrough occurred, British infantry troops in the rear would charge and drive back the attackers. Five columns attacked the British around the actual Spring Hill Redoubt and were beaten back with vicious hand-to-hand fighting. Approximately 800 of the attackers were cut down by artillery and small arms fire; the casualties littering the intervening space between the redoubts. The attack was ultimately repulsed by the British, and the siege was lifted a week later. London rejoiced when news of the victory reached England, and the Revolutionary war would continue for another four years. The Spring Hill Redoubt is now part of the Battlefield Memorial Park, where visitors can see markers and monuments commemorating the battle.

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Inscribed on the stones are the names and stories of people from many of the states, countries, and cultures involved in the Revolutionary struggle throughout the entire war.

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This is one of the slabs. It memorialises the part played in this action by Polish General Tadeusz Kościuszko [should be pronounced Kosh-CHUUSH-koh but never is by Australians]. Mt Kościuszko, Australia’s highest, was named by the Polish explorer Paweł Edmund Strzelecki [should be pronounced Sh-steel-ETSKY, but never is by Australians] in 1840, to honour General Kościuszko, whom Strzelecki viewed as a hero of the Kościuszko Uprising and the American Revolutionary War.
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- Día 111
- sábado, 2 de agosto de 2025
- 🌧 30 °C
- Altitud: 12 m
Estados UnidosSavannah32°5’8” N 81°5’47” W
Aug 2 - 4: Savannah, GA
2 de agosto, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌧 30 °C
After a 2-hr run (including a stop for brunch) down Hwy 17 to Savannah under threatening skies, I checked into the Hotel Indigo just in time to experience a torrential downpour that lasted for an hour. I had been invited out for some 'Southern hospitality' at Tybee Island, a 30-min drive from downtown Savannah, so I was lucky an Uber driver was prepared to brave the deluge to take me there.
Sunday was a late start (I'd had a few Old Fashions) and I decided to repeat the Hop-On/Hop-Off 'Trolley Bus' tour of the city that we'd enjoyed in April on our voyage up the ICW. It was warm and humid, but not HOT, so a very tolerable day's outing. I snapped a few one-handed shots from the bus; there'll be better ones back in our April 21-22 Blog.Leer más

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The tour bus driver thinks the windows have been installed upside down.

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Cast in 1872 as a fire alarm bell for the city of Savannah, Big Duke is a unique historical landmark. The iconic bell was given its nickname in honor of Alderman Marmaduke Hamilton, chairman of the City Council Fire Committee (1871–73), when the bell was purchased. Although Big Duke was built as a fire alarm, it evolved into a general alarm for police and military. Big Duke was also used to announce special occasions, such as the end of the Spanish-American War and honoring troops upon their return from various wars. In 1985, Big Duke was officially retired from its original purpose and moved into a position memorial for local firefighters.

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The Owens–Thomas House and Slave Quarters is a historic home that is operated as a historic house museum. It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1976, as one of the nation's finest examples of English Regency architecture. Renovations in the 1990s uncovered one of the oldest and best-preserved urban slave quarters in the American South. The mansion was purchased in 1830 by local attorney and politician George Welshman Owens for $10,000. The family maintained it for several decades until Owens' granddaughter, Margaret Thomas, bequeathed the house to the Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences (established in 1885) as the South's oldest art museum, in 1951. The house is notable for its early cast iron side veranda with elaborate acanthus scroll supports on which the Marquis de Lafayette addressed the citizens of Savannah on his visit in 1825.
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- Día 104–111
- 26 de julio de 2025 - 2 de agosto de 2025
- 7 noches
- ☁️ 35 °C
- Altitud: 11 m
Estados UnidosCharleston32°46’38” N 79°55’50” W
July 26-Aug 2: D.C. to Charleston, SC
26 jul.–2 ago., Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C
It's already 35 ºC at 9:00 am as I Uber 2 miles back to Washington Union Terminal. My Amtrak app tells me that Train 89, "The Palmetto", is running on time. No. 89 originates in NYC and runs to Washington DC, Richmond VA, Fayetteville NC, Charleston SC, Savannah GA, Jacksonville FL, Orlando FL, and Tampa/Miami FL. It's route from New York City to Washington DC is over its own high-speed line, the 'NE Corridor', so Amtrak is in charge of its own destiny from NYC to DC. After that, it's onto freight railroad lines, and Amtrak can only run freely to the extent that the freight railroad train dispatchers adhere to the various commercial agreements that Amtrak has with them.
Despite all of this, the air-con continues to work, the 9½-hr run is trouble-free, and I only go to the cafe car for a drink. We arrive in Charleston as the sun sets. The temp is about 38 ºC and--due to the coastal location--the humidity is high and it feels like 45. I call a taxi (thanks to Graeme's phone, which I now have ownership of) and get to my hotel.
The following days are a challenge. There's a heatwave across the southern states (and this is summertime anyway!), but it is what it is so I have to suck it up. I get a rental and take advantage of its air-con to drive around Charleston and its environs. When we stopped here while on the ICW for a day and a half back in April, we had a good look at 'downtown', the museum, and the major tourist rides, but I'd like to see what is out beyond the 'burbs and visit the library as well.
I go out to Sullivan's Island to have a Southern seafood lunch at Sullivan's Fish Camp and on another day I venture out to the Magnolia Plantation & Gardens (which used to be rice plantation and is a cross between Dunedin's Glenfalloch Gardens and a southern state botanical garden replete with alligators in the bayous and Spanish Moss (which we learn is neither Spanish nor moss) hanging from the trees. The location was also the site of military action between the locals (Presbyterians from Scotland, Ireland and France, Congregationalists from England and New England, and various ex-residents of Barbados) and the Revolutionary British troops.
Needless to say, I took the opportunity to fine dine at some of Charlestons world-class restaurants. There were so many oysters, crabs, shrimps, and New York strip steaks with my name on them. I HAD to do something about that.Leer más

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Charleston was the South's most important port. Federal forces manned Fort Moultrie as well as Fort Sumter set in the middle of Charleston Harbour. When the federal forces on Fort Moultrie abandoned it and joined the complement on Fort Sumter, the confederates quickly took over. When the feds on Fort Sumter refused to surrender, the southerners at Fort Moultrie opened fire on them - this being the first active combat of the war.
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- Día 104
- sábado, 26 de julio de 2025
- ☀️ 35 °C
- Altitud: 11 m
Estados UnidosCharleston32°46’38” N 79°55’50” W
July 24-25: Chicago to Washington DC
26 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C
I take it easy on another humid 35ºC day and head to Union Station early for what is supposed to be a 6:40 pm departure to Washington DC on the 'Floridian'. The weather has affected the train coming in, and Amtrak have a big problem at the moment with a shortage of cars. So, there's no rollingstock 'buffer' for Amtrak to make up a train consist. Therefore, we wait for our train (which arrived late) to be taken to the servicing depot and then returned to Union Station for us to board. We're finally called from the lounge sometime after 10:00 pm, and everyone struggles listlessly off to follow the agent to the South Concourse, then Gate 18, then Track 28. And there our train awaits... the locomotives staring at us, since we'll be pushing backwards out of the terminal. Of course, being in a Sleeper, I have to trudge 9 cars back to the last car ahead of the baggage car. I settle in, open the salad I bought with the Amtrak voucher, and crack the bottle of wine I've smuggled on (you can bring alcohol onto Amtrak as long as it’s unopened. Nothing stated about how long it must remain unopened).
We eventually move smoothly backwards without fanfare and retreat out of Union Station, through the Amtrak and BNSF yards, and to the wye where the western line for trains to California turns away. This movement positions us to head east - in our case for Cleveland, OH.
We're soon doing 130 km/h (from my GPS Speedo app, but might be questioned) and within 90 min are making a brief stop at South Bend, IN. I go to sleep and awake in early dawn as we depart Cleveland at daybreak and turn away from Lake Erie to traverse the Allegheny Mountains (part of the larger Appalachian Mountain Range), crossing Ohio and a northern corner of West Virginia to Pittsburgh, PA, for a 30-min stop to water the train and fuel the locomotives.
Departing the Steel City, we follow an extremely scenic and serpentine route, first alongside the impressive Monongahela [Min-ONga-hayla] River and then the Youghiogheny [YAHK-a-gainey], a lesser stream. Riverside foliage obscures a clear view of much of the latter, although I see glimpses of kayakers, canoeists, and rec fishers as we wind along beside it for many miles, curving through numerous semi-derelict coal-mining towns. Speed varies between 50 and 80 km/h. I'm called for the 1:00 pm lunch sitting in the diner.
Connellsville passes and we make a stop at Cumberland, MD, where I’m on the wrong side of the train to see the big CSX yard and engine terminal. We enter several crossing loops to cross long CSX freights, including double-stack container trains with mid-train Distributed Power.
Departing Cumberland, we cross the North Branch of the Potomac River and in so doing, enter a storied part of why I’m travelling this way… the ‘cradle of the Civil War’. The air-con in my sleeper has failed and this has driven me from my Roomette up several cars to the Café. I’m sitting there with my laptop and working on this narrative when we roll into Martinsburg for a passenger stop. Almost before I can recognise it, the famed Martinsburgh locomotive roundhouse [Google it] has passed. I shall have to return here.
After another hour of winding along through a verdant landscape beside the Potomac River (you could ride a horse across most parts of it in this area) and through the parallel ridges of mountains we arrive and stop at Harpers Ferry, WV, and the confluence with the famed Shenandoah River. Evangelical Christian, John Brown, an abolitionist, raided the federal armory here and was eventually caught (by a U.S. Army Engineer named Colonel Robert Edward Lee) and eventually hung for treason. This contributed in its own way to the southern secession from the Union and therefore the advance toward civil war. I wonder if his body is ‘a-mouldering’ in a grave hereabouts. I’ll have to return here and find out.
We soon emerge from the Blue Ridge Mountains onto the broad Piedmont landscape for the 50-mile run across to Washington D.C. I'm called for a brought-forward 5:30 pm dinner sitting (under normal on-time circumstances, dinner would not be served on the "Floridian" until it had departed Washington DC). Arrival into Washington Union Station is around 4 hrs late and I Uber to my hotel, 4 miles from the station. Departure for Charleston tomorrow is scheduled for 9:59 am.
Zzzzzzzz….Leer más

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Painting donated to Amtrak by Jules Millman, arcade games magnate, depicts Art Deco stylised renditions of railroad locomotives and other transport modes of the 1930s era. My educated guesses are; New York Central RR streamlined J-1 'Hudson' 4-6-4 locomotive on the Chicago-New York City "20th Century Limited"; New York Central RR K-5a 4-6-2 'Pacific' locomotive on the Chicago-Detroit "Chicago Mercury"; Milwaukee Road Class-A 4-4-2 'Atlantic' locomotive (only just visible) on the Chicago-Saint Paul (Twin Cities) "Hiawatha"; Chicago, Burlington & Quincy RR streamlined diesel train set on the Chicago-Minneapolis/Saint Paul Twin Cities "Zephyr"; 1930s Lincoln Zephyr motor car; Undefined airliner (with underslung engines); Undefined airship. The skyscraper on the right looks a deadringer for the Nebraska State Capitol building. Amtrak's "California Zephyr" running between Chicago and the San Francisco Bay Area (Emeryville), makes a stop in Lincoln, NE, the state capital.

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The two locomotive units on the "Floridian" are a General Electric GE P42DC 'Genesis' (leading) and a Siemens ALC-42 'Charger'; both 4200 hp.
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- Día 98–102
- 20 de julio de 2025 - 24 de julio de 2025
- 4 noches
- ☀️ 33 °C
- Altitud: 11 m
Estados UnidosCharleston32°46’38” N 79°55’50” W
July 21-23: The Windy City
20–24 jul., Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
By the way, did you know that Chicagoans like to tell you that the famous nickname for their Toddlin' Town derives from a reputation for the manner of politicians' complaining about various things? I've looked up Wikipedia and it seems there's a lot more to the derivation of this epithet.
The heat is on! It's going to be between mid-20s (ºC) and the high 30s. Mon (21st) will be the best day, temperature-wise, so I get going in good time on the 5-min drive to return my rental after 20 days and 1,323 miles (2,129 km). The final cost of this rental includes a $250 infringement penalty from back in New York State and paid at the time by the rental company then levied on me along with a 'handling charge'. The infringement was apparently for passing a stopped school bus. I'm aware of how serious they are over here about school buses but obviously I don't recall this incident. Yikes!
There is a Target store two blocks from the rental depot, so I walk there and find the wheeled duffle bag I need for my 'luggage overflow'. Then it's back several blocks to my hotel to drop the bag and call an Uber to get me into mid-town to catch the 11.30 Wendella river cruise on which an architectural expert will explain the buildings we pass. The cruise is 90 minutes and navigates all 3 branches of the Chicago River within the downtown city (see map). It's an excellent ride and, I would say, an essential thing to do in Chicago. I'll add a few views, but this is by far the best place to see what we have seen regarding the Chicago River; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicago_River
Meandering through urban and suburban communities, forest preserves and parks, industrial and commercial districts, as well as the heart of downtown, the 156-mile long Chicago-Calumet River system and the watersheds that surround it are highly varied. Originally, the river flowed into Lake Michigan, but as the city grew and the sewerage flow became a problem, a massive engineering project changed this so that that it now flows OUT of the lake and down into the Mississippi. The understandable outcry from downstream means, of course, that the sewerage is much-treated before being released into the Chicago Sanitary & Ship Canal 🤮 and from there the Illinois River (what an unfortunate name to give a manufactured waterway). Our cruise takes in the 3 branches up their downtown limits.
This river cruise ends in time for me to walk across the DuSable Bridge to catch the Big Red Hop-On/Hop Off bus at Stop 1 on E Wacker Dr. This circuit takes 2 hrs and is also recommended as critical for any first-timer to Chicago. Be aware, though, if the temperature is in the 30s, it'll be warm upstairs. Downstairs is air-conditioned, but the view is limited.
On Tuesday, I venture out the 3 blocks to get a haircut (which requires an appointment made online) at a nearby barber shop I'd noticed yesterday and to visit the 110-floor Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower). I breakfast there, but my destination is the 103rd-floor Skydeck. I spend a long time soaking up the 360-degree views, although the far distance is partly obscured by a haze. When I emerge, there's a hot wind blowing along W Jackson Blvd and I am discouraged from any further exploration. I retreat to the air-conditioned relief of my hotel.
On Wednesday it's still around 35 ºC, so I remain in the hotel, working on my laptop. In the late afternoon I Uber uptown to join the evening guided tour on the Big Red Bus. Being up top and outside is quite tolerable now. This tour ends at 9:30 pm, and I seek out a restaurant that is still open for dinner. Most are closing, but I find The Smith, which stays open until 11:30. https://thesmithrestaurant.com/location/chicago/
I have plenty of time for a couple of cocktails, a mixed platter of oysters, and a beautifully-cooked, peppered flat iron steak. I Uber back to my hotel, greatly satisfied with my last 3 days. Tomorrow, it's Amtrak to Washington DC for a on-night hotel stopover. But I'll have to return to Chicago and explore further.
[images to be included soon]Leer más

Viajero
Amtrak maintenance and servicing yard in middle distance with BNSF (Burlington Northern Santa Fe RR)/Metra yard to its right. Chicago Union Terminal is out-of-sight beneath me and to the right.
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- Día 98
- domingo, 20 de julio de 2025
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Altitud: 204 m
Estados UnidosSouth Bend41°40’42” N 86°14’55” W
July 20: Grand Rapids to Chicago
20 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
The drive from GR to Muskegon is an easy, 50-min freeway cruise and I'm at the Lake Express terminal in plenty of time... in fact I'm the first to arrive in the vehicle boarding queue. The ferry eventually arrives, 30 min late, and docks bow-in. It unloads passengers and vehicles, and we queued vehicles are summoned to drive on. I'm the first car waved on, so I get to be stuck right under a stern passenger stairway. I'll certainly not be first off, methinks (correctly).
We eventually depart, 30 min late, and head--sedately, due to the number of pleasure craft around--across Muskegon Lake to the navigation channel that opens out onto Lake Michigan. As we clear the breakwater, the 4 × MTU 16V 4000 (2320 kW) diesel engines are throttled up, and the 4 × Kamewa waterjets start to do their business for the 78-mile voyage. In a minute or two, we're up to our cruising speed of 39 mph, and the breeze across the top deck blows me down the stairs and into the comfort of the passenger saloon.
After 2½ hrs, we arrive at the Milwaukee Terminal, where the vessel docks stern-in, the ramp is lowered, and we're soon driving off. I stop momentarily once clear of the ship and the exit drive to program the car's GPS with my hotel destination in Chicago, and I'm soon out of Milwaukee and cruising at 70 mph down Interstate 94 in the growing dusk.
It's dark as I arrive into the northern suburbs of Chicago, and I'm grateful for GPS and Apple Carplay as I take my place in the solid line of red tail lights, and keep one eye on the Google Map display. The inner-city spaghetti junction known as the Jane M. Bryne Interchange has my eyes spinning as I somehow manage to make sense of my display, which has the arrow-head (me) somewhere off the blue line (the one I have to follow). But it's just that it's all happening too fast for the GPS, and the arrow-head soon darts back into place, to my great relief.
My Holiday Inn is about three minutes off that interchange, and I come up on it soo quick, I go past and have to 'chuck a blockie' to get back tor a second go. There's a public carpark right beside the hotel which costs $20 for 12 hrs. That's better than the hotel, which charges $65 to let you park there! I'll only be parking for one night, as I plan to take the car to the nearest Enterprise Rental outlet first thing in the morning.
I've chosen a good hotel, as it's a 5-min drive to drop the car, a 2-block walk to Union Station for my train on Thursday, and a 4-block walk to Stop 2 for the Hop-On/Hop-Off bus! But could I have gotten here in the growing dark without that GPS? I can't imagine it, without a navigator with a map on their knee.
I was ready for a bevvie...Leer más
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- Día 96–99
- 18 de julio de 2025 - 21 de julio de 2025
- 3 noches
- ☁️ 25 °C
- Altitud: 200 m
Estados UnidosGrand Rapids42°57’50” N 85°39’59” W
Grand Rapids: A Celebration of Brass
18–21 jul., Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Nope, not a band... a vintage and veteran car rally at the UTTERLY SUPERB Gilmore Car Museum, about a 45-min drive south of GR.
Second cousin (once removed), Roger Moffat lives near GR and is a volunteer at the museum and I was admitted on two days on his pass. Thanks a million, Roger!. He owns and runs a 10 hp 1904 Franklin Type A Roadster. The museum is beautifully appointed and presented. Various national car clubs have built annexes there to exhibit the history of their marques. The museum is defensive if you ask them, but while a few Chevs ARE displayed, including a lineup of Corvettes--what's noticeable is there's no Chevrolet annex to complement the other major American marques that ARE displayed in great historical detail. One is left to wonder, did 'Chevrolet' or perhaps the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America and the Chevy Club of North America et al decide for some reason not to cooperate somehow with the museum in its development? Whatever the truth, Chevrolet and its history and lineup of models is a standout absentee or omission from the Gilmore Car Museum.
Old cars with brass control levers and knobs, ornamentation, and vanity inclusions were the order of the day for this event, and I met folks from all over the USA who had trailered the loves of their lives (and in many cases, their wives too) to Michigan for this event. One spectacular group that attended were the Stanley Steamer/Locomobile/White/Doble steam-powered cadre that came in force. Toot-toot, hiss-hiss, chugga-chugga-chugga...
A miserable few images will have to suffice.
Tomorrow, off to Muskegon (not far) to catch the ferry to Milwaukee, thence a drive down to Chicago.Leer más

Viajero
Note: Rambler > Nash > Kelvinator > Hudson eventually = AMC (American Motor Corporation)

What a fantastic time you are having Fergus. Just been catching up on your travels. Much preparatory research to see all these places. Keep on with the excitement and berries [Graeme Wells]
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- Día 95
- jueves, 17 de julio de 2025
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Altitud: 200 m
Estados UnidosGrand Rapids42°57’50” N 85°39’59” W
July 17: Leaving TC for the USA
17 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Time to leave Traverse City; there is yet more to see in the USA. So I headed south for a rendezvous near Grand Rapids. Although I knew it'd be closed, I still wanted to visit the Steam Railroading Institute in Owosso to see what I could see through the fence. Maybe I'd catch a glimpse of the big ex-Pere Marquette Railroad 2-8-4 steam locomotive No. 1225 that starred in that famous 2004 animated kids movie, "The Polar Express". Of course, it was stabled well out of sight, and with the whole street area around the Steam Railroading Institute being a roading construction site, I was to be dead out of luck.
But as I drove south from the small town of St Charles towards Owosso, I passed the intersection of a road with my name on it, so I stopped and looked it up. It seems that many moons ago, a major railroad called the Michigan Central ran from Grand Rapids, through Owosso and St. Charles to Saginaw and there was a location called Fergus with its own railway station. So, I thought, if these Michiganders have been insightful enough to name a location after me, the least I can do is go and see it. So I drove down Fergus Rd to where this little place had been and photographed it. Now, it was not quite as salubrious as that other 'Fergus' that was named after me (in Ontario, Canada), but it was definitely worth recording, I thought.
Anyway, after that excitement I continued on to Owosso, where I did NOT have any excitement, and although I'm sure this attractive town has much to recommend it in addition to the Steam Railroading Institute, time was passing and I still had to get to Grand Rapids and check in.
This was a pleasant day's driving, through pleasant Michigan agricultural land, and finding another town named after me was excitement enough, I thought. And anyway, I've got a major vintage car rally to attend over the next two days.Leer más
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- Día 93
- martes, 15 de julio de 2025
- ☁️ 32 °C
- Altitud: 200 m
Estados UnidosGrand Rapids42°57’50” N 85°39’59” W
July 15: A garden bar extraordinaire
15 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C
I did a lot of 'business' today; just stuff you have to be on your computer for. So, after I'd given the bike in the gym a workout, I decided I deserved a treat so I proceeded out of town to Suttons Bay for 'brunner'. For the uninitiated, Brunner is when you only have one meal a day (so breakfast/lunch/dinner) which I frequently do.
I took a lot of snaps of the venue as I felt I had to record the best, most creative, garden bar I've ever seen. The brewery wasn't too bad, either.
Tomorrow... off to Grand Rapids (via Saginaw), then the Windy City, drop the car, thence points east (hoping their weather doesn't intrude on my travels).Leer más

Viajero
They're allowed 164,000 lbs on board as distinct from the Federal limit of 50,000 lbs. This guy is unloaded so has all of his lift-axles up. These semis are known in MI as 'centipedes' or 'Michigan (gravel) trains'.
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- Día 91
- domingo, 13 de julio de 2025
- ☁️ 28 °C
- Altitud: 200 m
Estados UnidosGrand Rapids42°57’50” N 85°39’59” W
July 13: A lazy, hazy Sunday
13 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
There's a faint smokiness over the whole state of Michigan courtesy of wildfires up in Canada. Still, the weather's fine and it looks like a nice day to wander on the Boardman River boardwalk then take a drive out to Elk Rapids for a late lunch and some live music at Short's Brewery.Leer más

Viajero
This item was never a Père Marquette caboose. It was a Grand Trunk Western RR caboose, and was gussied up and placed here as a pretend item of PMRR rollingstock. Where a caboose reporting number (in this case the pretend A1903) included an 'A', this denoted 'accommodation'. Such cabooses were designed to be the conductor’s headquarters as well as a hub for the crew; its interior being outfitted with a table, chairs, beds, icebox, coal stove, sink, and tank for drinking water.
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- Día 89
- viernes, 11 de julio de 2025
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Altitud: 200 m
Estados UnidosGrand Rapids42°57’50” N 85°39’59” W
11 July: Old Mission Peninsula
11 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
Another nice day, so I decided on a leisurely drive up the Old Mission Peninsula for a late lunch at the Jolly Pumpkin. There's a lot more to see up here, so I might return and drive further up on another day.Leer más

Viajero
This is around the far side of what's called Bowers Harbor which is really a large bay. I drove around for a look-see and the lady allowed me to look around and inside. I was impressed, and I think I might come here for a brief getaway when I return to the area in late September.

Viajero
"Oh, the cat'll catch that", said the lady when I mentioned it. Vale the local wildlife.
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- Día 88
- jueves, 10 de julio de 2025
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Altitud: 173 m
Estados UnidosTraverse City44°45’37” N 85°37’5” W
10 July: The Leelanau Peninsula
10 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Took a scenic drive to Northport for lunch, then back via Leland and Empire. No time to stop at breweries, so missed about 5 of them at Sutton Bay, Northport, and surrounding locations.

Viajero
The two parts of the lower Grand Traverse Bay--bisected by Old Mission Peninsula--are known as West Bay (left) and East Bay. Leelanau Peninsula is further to the left (under the clouds) and Lake Michigan is out to the left of that. Most of the wineries are on Old Mission Peninsula.
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- Día 87
- miércoles, 9 de julio de 2025, 13:42
- ☁️ 26 °C
- Altitud: 200 m
Estados UnidosGrand Rapids42°57’50” N 85°39’59” W
9 July 2025: Around Boardman Lake
9 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
This is a great little exercise gig. It's in the middle of Traverse City, MI, and is about 4 miles around, which is a little less than going around Lake Hayes, near Queenstown in NZ (which is also a great little exercise gig!).Leer más
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- Día 86
- martes, 8 de julio de 2025
- ☁️ 28 °C
- Altitud: 200 m
Estados UnidosGrand Rapids42°57’50” N 85°39’59” W
8 July: In Traverse City
8 de julio, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
A slow day. It was wet on Sunday--which kept me close to the hotel--and damp and cool yesterday morning, so caught up on some reading, then went out for a haircut (after finding a barber who just did walk-ins), and visited an ex-mental asylum.
The place is now The Village at Grand Traverse Commons - a pricey redevelopment with the usual boutiques and artisans outlets. By sheer coincidence, though, I did stumble upon Earthen Ales; one of TC's 15 craft breweries, with 12 beers on tap (including one with the well-known Rakau hops, called NZ Pils), and 2 ciders. I didn't spend any money in the boutiques but I did buy a couple of beers...Leer más




























































































































































































































































































































































































![Duck snooze [1]](http://media.fp-files.com/footprint/68714e9a053694-38926765/84vu6r0yndudr_m_s.jpg)
![Duck snooze [2]](http://media.fp-files.com/footprint/68714e9a053694-38926765/5eweyulec3nrj_m_s.jpg)

















ViajeroTrump must have read the message on Trent bridge
ViajeroYou mean at Trenton, Maurice?
Viajero
The Big Ten Curve is a 270-degree railroad curve, part of Union Pacific's Moffat Tunnel Subdivision, located west of Denver, Colorado, where trains ascend into the Rocky Mountains. Named for its 10-degree radius, the curve was built in the early 1900s to create a grade less steep than a direct route would require. The curve is also known for its distinctive windbreak, consisting of old hopper cars filled with dirt and cement, placed to protect against high winds from the nearby mountains. Today, though, these are hidden in lineside foliage and probably no-one but me notices them. Union Pacific's Big Ten Curve (also sometimes referred to as Big Ten Loop) is an amazing piece of railroad engineering designed to allow trains headed west from the plains of Denver to climb into the Colorado Rockies with as minimal a grade as possible. When the line was originally being built, the tracks needed to gain roughly 300 feet of elevation, but the direct route was only 3,300 feet in distance (as the crow flies). This would have necessitated a grade of roughly 9%, which is essentially impossible for a mainline railroad. Even 3% is considered exceptionally steep. In order to keep the grade to 2% or less, architects of the railroad found a route that, instead of 3,300 feet in distance was about 3 miles, or roughly 16,500 feet in distance! This reduced the average grade of the tracks from 9% to 1.8%.
ViajeroLucky enough in 2019 to drive out to the Big 10 curve to see the Cal Zephyr!!!