• Molina Bungalows, Vang Vieng, Day 2

    3 februari 2018, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It's an early morning today as we want as much time as possible to get out and and see what's around. We start off by getting a sandwich for breakfast, and then rent a couple of bikes. We are told we have to have the bikes back by 5, which seems inconsequential as we happily take them, but proves not to be later in the day.
    Our first stop is a cave just outside the city that we would like to see. After a few minutes biking we are out of the town and into the countryside. It is hard not to stop every few seconds to take a look at the views you get when biking, but we make it to the turn off and follow a sign that says cave. The road here, which has been smooth so far, now turns into a stony dirt path. This would be okay on a mountain bike, but we are sat on old, one gear things that offer no mercy on our bum as we bump along the road. It isn't particularly easy on the legs either, as the tyres grind their way over the rocks and mud. We pass a large family of cows that very kindly move for us to pass, before discovering the best view we have had of the mountains yet. We stop for a few minutes to take it in, before consulting a map to see how far the cave is. Of course, we have gone the wrong way. We turn back, and I spot a small track through a forest that we think could lead the way. As there are no other tourists around and no-one to point the way, we are rather stuck.
    After a few minutes through the forest and a few nettle stings, we realise it is probably not the right way, and again head back onto the stony dirt road, thinking that must be the way and the maps wrong. We pass the cows again and push through the stones until we reach a river. Again, it is a beautiful spot, but there isn't a cave. We give up, determined to come back tomorrow after we have looked it up online. The cows, who must be very fed up of us now, move out of our way one last time, before we are back on the road.
    Back through the town we go and to a different exit point. This time we cross a couple of very cool bridges, and head West. After only a few minutes of cycling we see a sign for another cave. We bike across a field until we come to a small entrance where we each pay 10,000 kip (just under a pound) to enter. A young girl acts as our guide, and hands us both headlights. What have we got ourselves in for here. As we climb into the pitch black cave, the girl anders ahead as if walking on a path. We stumble along behind her, squeezing through tiny gaps and down slippery ladders. There are some cool rock formations pointed out to us, but it is hard o appreciate them fully in the small, dark places. All we can hear is the guide saying 'watch your head' over and over as we try and not lose her whilst also trying not to slip over or walk into a rock. We go deeper and deeper, and I will admit I begin to get rather worried. When my headlight falls on what resembles a huge spider on a rock, my worry triples, and I am pretty glad when we reach the water at the end. She offers us a dip in the water, which we both decline, despite being covered in sweat due to the immense heat. It is a relief when we get out.That is enough caves for one day,
    Next to the cave is a viewpoint. We decide to try and get to it, which involves a ridiculously steep climb up a hill. Our desire to reach the summit overrides the common sense which is telling us it is too dangerous, and we pull ourselves up further and further, nothing to stop us slipping but loose branches and jutting rocks. it is starting to get scary the higher we get, as the footholds seem to diminish. One look behind us tells us it is time to go down. Despite reaching what looks like the top, it is overgrown by trees anyway so there is no view. We slowly go down, mostly sliding on our bombs as we shakily hold onto anything we can. It is safe to say one slip here would be pretty nasty. It takes a while as we carefully manoeuvre downwards, an boy are we glad when we get to the bottom. We walk back to the bikes with weary legs, ready to push on and see what's next.
    As if that last viewpoint wasn't enough, we decide to take on the big one. Pha Ngern looms above us, and we plan to reach the top of it. We park our bikes and pay the 10,000 kip entry fee before setting off. It says it takes an hour to the top, we soon realise that is a lie. Fortunately, this one isn't as dangerous as the previous one, and it is a more of a path with stone steps then a climb up a slippy hill. We walk and walk, and our legs are beginning to ache even before we reach the first stop which is about two thirds of the way up. When we do reach it there is a punishing scramble up some rocks that would be impossible without the rope to help. The view at the top is worth it though. You can see right over Vang Vieng and all the surrounding hills and fields. The fresh air feels lovely, and we spend five or so minutes staring out at the World below us.
    We don't have time to burn though. One look at our watches tells us we have two hours before we have to have the bikes back. Not long if we want to reach the summit and then get back down. We decide to go for it. Our burning legs ask for pity, but we offer none as we climb quickly up the rocks. We have said 3.30 is the cut off point where we have to turn back to make it in time. As that time comes nearer, I can sense we are close, but Amy's energy is fading. At 25 past she gives in, telling me to go on. I run up the steps, before turning a corner and dejctedly seeing another steep staircase. It's too much, and i turn back.
    A group of 3 locals see me do this. They have just been at the top and are on the way down. '2 minutes' they say and point me upwards. i can't stop 2 minutes from the top. No way. I run all the way and finally stand on the rock on top of the mountain. What a feeling and what a view. I can see for miles. Unfortunately I don't have time and need to go get Amy, so I turn round and to my surprise there she is, climbing the ladder to the top, red faced and breathing heavily. She made it. Given energy by overhearing my conversation with the locals, she pushed on, and we spend a few minutes together, on top of this painful mountain.
    With legs that are begging us to stop, we now go through what could be a record run on getting down. We jog the flat bits, and quickly jump the rocks and steps that seemed so painful to climb earlier as the minutes click by. It took us 2 hours to climb, we make it down in 45 minutes.
    We bike back like Lance Armstrong minus the drugs, and reach the bike shop. The time, 4.45.
    We are elated to sit down in a nearby restaurant and have a fruit shake and some food. When time to leave comes by, we struggle to stand, and the walk home is pretty painful, but it is all worth it to know we made it to the top and back down in time.
    We get back and relax for a few hours, not wanting to move our legs. We only go out once more to get some food, and Amy has a fish sweet and sour that involves some of the most bony fish i have seen on a plate. bad news for Amy as it puts her off her food. Good news for me as it is delicious.
    Finally it is time for bed. We're going to sleep well tonight!
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