Phonevilai Guesthouse, Muang Ngoi, Day 1

Time to leave Nong Khiaw, and we will soon be heading the same way we briefly ventured yesterday on the kayaks. After getting up and getting packed in time for the early boat (early being half past ten) we make our way over the bridge one last time and down to the dock. We are pretty early but it is already looking like it will be a busy road as the crowd of rucksack laden tourists grows and grows as departure time gets nearer.
When it finally comes we have formed an orderly queue down the stairway leading to the water, but as people start to board, all rules are broken as people from the back wander down anyway, oblivious of the angry stares of the people in line. One of these people is Medi, a man we met on the balcony of our hotel in Nong Khiaw, and who looks a bit like a tanned Wayne Sleep. He finds himself on the comfy seats, as we are shoved into the back on some very uncomfy benches.
We squeeze so many people on the boat there is hardly any breathing room, and then shove a few more on. It isn't comfy, so thank God the journey only lasts an hour. After filling two boats, there are around five people left. These are the obedient law of the queue abiders, and karma looks down on them by gifting them an empty boat, where they can stretch out and admire the scenery.
When we finally set off we are nearly an hour late. The scenery is lovely along the route, but it is far too awkward to turn around to look at it that it isn't worth it. It is with great joy that we finally see the gueshouses and bugalows of Muang Ngoi in the distance.
When we arrive, my knees are very painful to move due to being cramped up for the last hour, and just getting out of the boat and onto the wobbly platform is hard work. We instantly reconise that this place is special. Nestled inbetween the many surrounding mountains, it only got a road out in 2013. Before that it was only accesible by boat, and it is as far flung from Bangkok and Hanoi as you could get!
We grab our bags that have been slung onto the platform, and head off with the crowd in search of somewhere to sleep. Most people head for the riverside hotels, so we decide to head further inland. What we find is a dirt road that looks recently dug up and churned. What this place lacks in infrastructure it certainly makes up for in beauty. The mountains (not hills according to Medi) are everywhere you look, and it is probably even better then Nong Khiaw.
Carefully balancing with our bags on our back and flip flops on our feet, we find a lovely little bungalow, that comes with a nice balcony and hammock. We snap it up at 100,000 kip a night (just under £9) and get settled in.
After a while we realise we haven't eaten all day, so head out for some dinner. We walk a short way down the dirt road and find a cool little restaurant where we settle down to eat. Medi turns up after a few minutes and sits with us, regaling us with stories of his travelling past. After eating we wander to his bungalow to see the view he has got. The room doesn't look too pretty, but the view of the mountains along the Mekong is lovely. We chill there for a bit before heading back to our bungalow for some well needed rest. I fall asleep and don't wake up until 6pm! Guess I was more worn out then I thought.
As night sets in, we go out for tea. We are drawn into a restaurant by a very persuasive lady, who tells us to try the local food. We order a curry called suzy which is amazing, and a noodle dish called larp which is also delicious. It is always a risk ordering things you have never heard of, but it paid off tonight.
And so we head back, bellies full and well rested. We go to bed excited to explore more tomorrow, and already falling in love with this small, sleepy town.Baca lagi