Camino Portuguese 2025

April 2025
Current
An open-ended adventure by Arlene Read more
Currently traveling

List of countries

  • Portugal
  • United States
Categories
None
  • 3.6kmiles traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight3,178kilometers
  • Walking437kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Train-kilometers
  • Bus-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 23footprints
  • 28days
  • 264photos
  • 157likes
  • Day 26

    Seeing What Stuff I Am Made Of

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    I left the cutest little town today, Ponte de Limas. It was such a pretty, peaceful walk out of town for our destination of Rubiaeus. Thank goodness I had no idea what lay ahead, or I may never have left! I left town along the river, crossed the ancient pedestrian bridge, and made my way into the fields, then the forest, then the mountain! The fields were fun with stone walkways running just inches from the stream, with water so clear you almost didn't know it was there. The forest starting going uphill almost immediately, but it would be a pretty good inclines and then it would level off for a while so you could catch your breath before the next one. This went on for miles and as the top of the mountain got closer, the steeper the climb got. Amazingly, there were many mountain bikers riding up along side us. It is crazy to see them driving up over the rocks and roots and loose dirt! Then came the unexpected, the unimaginable, indescribable. It was a half mile climb, so steep it was like trying to climb stairs, but with rocks and boulders and rivulets of water running down and trees and roots everywhere, and at points climbing through sections where the twisty turny path was only about 18 inches wide with walls of rock and earth up to your thighs. This was certainly not the "easy" Portuguese Camino i thought i was going to be doing. But, guess what. I made it, unscathed and so full of a sense of accomplishment, I was on cloud nine! I have never in my life challenged myself like this. It was a huge test of strength, stamina, and will power. And, it was a bigger test of challenging and facing my fears. There was a good chance I could get hurt, and if I did, I couldn't just call 911. There was no one coming for me. This is the best I can do to describe how great I felt about this, still do actually. But if you feel anything in my retelling of this adventure, multiply by 100 to imagine how good it felt for me.
    And then, I got to go all the way down the other side! You think this would be easy, but the downside was equally steep and the trail had all loose dirt and pebbles. And it was very long. It was tough on my knees and I felt like gravity was pulling my 14 lbs backpack and my body along with it, all the way to the bottom.
    Once we got to the bottom and back into civilization, we discovered the power outage in Portugal and Spain. While on the mountain we were too busy to realize we had no service. But once down, when we all were trying to get cold drinks and food, we discovered the problem. There were no restaurants or cafes open, but we were able to find a few provisions in a tiny market and we're able to make pasta with red sauce, zucchini and olives. Lucky for us our albergue had a gas stove. But not going out to a dinner made and served to us by restaurant staff somehow seemed to be the perfect end to this wonderously hard day. We were once again proving we were capable and creative and able to overcome hardship.
    I really am as strong as I think I am!
    Read more

  • Day 25

    Its been a while

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I have been sick but struggling to continue my walk. But, that hasn't left me with the energy to write my posts. I have been crashing each night. Though I have much more recuperating to go, I do feel better. A short day today helped also. We switched from the coastal to the central route, and took a car to span them. It would have been about a 30 mile walk and we don't have time for that. But we did walk about 8 miles today after we got to the Central.
    We left Porto on Thursday morning. Jayme headed on the Central path and the rest of us took the coastal. The first three days along the coast were a mixture of things. We walked miles and miles of boardwalk, through small towns and on a couple trails. The terrain was pretty flat, but it seemed we were either being battered by the wind and sea soray or burnt to a crisp by the unrelenting sun. But the coast is beautiful and wild and I am so happy we did it. It truly reminded me of the Maine coast. Along the way we stayed a night in Perafita in an old woman's house with rooms that had decks facing the ocean and listened to the waves crash all night. Next we stayed in a 2 bedroom apartment right in the middle of old town Vila do Conde, a very nice place. And last night we stayed in private rooms at the Albergue Santiago de Coste in Apulia. We stayed in the private rooms because it only cost 5 euro more than the dorm bunks with 14 other people. And tonight we are in a private apartment with 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, kitchen, living room, and dining, balcony around 2 sides of the apartment, and some strange 4th bedroom that is the size of a cell and has no windows. Lucky we don't need that room. But the place is huge, quite nice and only .5 miles from downtown, all for 106,14 euro!
    The path has become so much more populated since leaving Porto. It is getting difficult to pop behind a bush for a quick pee because there is always someone coming along to see you. But, everyone is friendly and happy and there is a good energy. And the locals have all been wonderful. When leaving Porto we net a man named Francisco who spoke with Noelle in Spanish in Portuguese. He asked where she learned to speak Pirtuguese and was greatly amused when she said "you tube"! He was so proud of his city and the park we were walking in. He gave us a history of how it was built. And, he made my day when he was awed that I. Had been walking since Lisbon.
    Sorry this is just a quick recap. We are out at 6:30 tomorrow morning. Wee have a lot of miles and thhe majority a straight uphill. I need rest for what is ahead. And in case you don't hear from me, I will be in bed sleeping, I am sure
    Read more

  • Day 21

    Sick Day for Me

    April 23 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Whatever this cold bug is, it got the better of me today. Still a sore throat and coughing, but developed a head ache and stomach issues. So, while everyone else went out touring, I sat on the patio baking in other sun and reading. By the end of the afternoon I was feeling better enough to go out to dinner with everyone. We went to a very cool bar high above the Douro River and ate on the terrace while watching the sunset. Afterward, we came back to the apartment and Noelle did tarot card readings for Jayme and Deb. Now it is time for bed. Tomorrow my walk resumes.Read more

  • Day 20

    Our Campanions Have Arrived

    April 22 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Today I woke up in the hostel just across the river from where we are meeting Richard, Noelle and Deb. It was only about a mile and a half from them, but we just didn't have the energy to get there. So we took a car and met them at the rental office where we left backpacks and poles while we waited for our unit to be readied. We went to lunch at Time Out Market. It was great as we could all go to a different vendor and get just what we wanted. Afterward, we went to the Cathedral. The newbies got their first stamp while Jayme and I got another stamp and another credential. The ones we have are already nearly full. Next we went to Sport Zone and got hiking poles for Deb and Noelle. By then our rental was ready. It is very cute, 3 beds 2 baths in the middle of old town with a washer and outdoor space. And the weather has completely changed so we can enjoy. Everyone napped and we're still too tired to go out for dinner, so we ate pizza and salad. Now I am in bed again and exhausted. Hopefully, we will be able to explore Porto a bit tomorrow before we move on.Read more

  • Day 19

    I'm in Porto

    April 21 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Grijo to Porto today. And guess what? It was cold and rainy most of the day. But we are champions and pushed on.
    Most of the route was through towns and villages. But there was a rather steep and long and muddy and rocky forest section. Yep, that hill had it all! An equally treacherous descent was fun. C heck out my pics and zoom in on Jayme and you will be able to see the inclines a bit better. Hills are so hard to capture on camera.
    During our day, we met a couple of our pilgrim friends, Mano from France and a lot of other places, and La from South Korea. It is always a spirit boost to stop and talk with friends, even if you need to use a translation app!
    We learned the Pope died today while we were having tea and waiting for the pharmacy to open. Jayme now has conjunctivitis with her cold.
    We did our laundry so we are not stinky and smelly when we meet up with Richard, Noelle and Deb tomorrow. And we went to dinner and had an excellent meal for 25 Euro each. Now medicated, I am getting ready to sleep.
    We are on the other side of the river from where the cathedral is and where our stay is in Porto. We thought we were about 4-5 miles from there, but turns out our hostel is close to the bridge we need to cross and where we need to be is close to the other end. So, only a little over a mile distance! Happily, we won't have to get up too soon, and will be able to sleep in a bit. More than half walk to Santago!
    Read more

  • Day 21–27

    Easter on the Camino

    April 20 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    It rained on us again, or is it still? But it was a bit warmer and the rain was not as drenching, so that was good. Jayme is beginning to improve though you might not believe it to hear her cough. I am holding steady, no better, no worse. With the report out of the way, let me tell you about my day.
    It was a fairly easy walk today which left lots of time for observation and reflection. And being Easter morning, it was hard not to think long and hard about my religious faith, which has been pretty much non-existent for a long time. If you know me, you know i am convicted in my spiritual beliefs. But today, religion was everywhere, and I had not a single negative thought. It was really, really nice to feel that long closed door crack open a bit. It started with nearly every single business being closed down, shops, whole malls, restaurants, pharmacies, even gas stations. This country is all about allowing the people to worship something other than making the next dollar. And the people do! We are not quite positive this actually happened since neither of us speak Portuguese, but Jayme greeted a man this morning saying "bom dia". Normally people will respond in the same way and then offer a "bom camino" or "bom viage". But this guy started to speak to her as if he were admonishing her. We both seemed to understand that he did not think she should be walking on the Camino today, but should instead be in mass. Anyway, it seemed the whole country was decorating their houses, all dressed up and out visiting , eating Easter dinners together, and yes going to mass. The sense of community around this day and its traditions was palpable.
    On my walk today, I must have passed dozens of shrines on lawns or built into the walls of people homes dedicated to Mary. And there were three chapels built in her honor, just on our route alone. And when I went to mass this evening (yes I did) they began the mass to the Risen Lord with a procession and blessing with incense and song to her.
    The church was packed, barely a seat to be had at a 7pm mass when I would have expected most people to be in front of the TV or too full from dinner to get up and out. But, it truly seemed the whole town was there.
    Somehow, in that sea of worshipers, we stood out. Immediately after the mass was over, a young man named Pedro approached me and offered to tell me about and show me around the actaul church and give a bit of history and some info about the procession. It seems that for hundreds of years the youth of the parish volunteer to go to every single home in the parish and announce that Jesus is risen. They carry poles with crosses and are welcomed by the people they visit.
    I loved the spirit around this shared belief in Jesus. I'm not sure I'm ready to rejoin, but I do admire the way they all join in community and celebration of a shared belief.
    Read more

  • Day 21–30

    It's a Sick Day

    April 19 in Portugal ⋅ 🌩️ 52 °F

    Sadly, Jayme is feeling much worse. She sounds terrible and can't get warm. And today, it is only 50 degrees, is windy and rainy and just started thundering. It is never fun to walk when you are sick, but it is just plain miserable when the weather is bad. So, we decided to take a train to get to a good place to walk from tomorrow and be able to meet the others in Porto on Tuesday. Hopefully she will feel better tomorrow.
    I have the same scratchy throat I had yesterday, but so far I am no worse. I hope not being in the cold and rain will keep my cold at bay.
    Read more

  • Day 17–20

    Good Friday and a Good Rest

    April 18 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    We stayed in Coimbra today for a rest day. This has been a hard Camino with the first few days excessively hot and humid and all the others with rain of varying lengths and intensities. To make it harder, Jayme has had a cold for days now and it seems to be at its worst right now. And the last two days, I am battling not to get sick also as I feel symptoms coming on. I hope today's rest will give up the strength we need to continue tomorrow with renewed energy.
    We are staying in a little apartment on a narrow cobblestone street in old town, we are in the heart of everything, less than a 5 minute walk to the Cathedral. We had a leisurely start to the day with a real breakfast then a tour of the Se Velha Da Coimbra. Very beautiful as so many of these old Cathedrals are. Being there on Good Friday was especially moving. I lit candles for my parents at the Shrine of the Virgin Mary.
    We then had to visit the tourist info center to get info on an open pharmacy as most places are closed for Good Friday. We bought cough syrup, nose spray, throat lozengers and ibuprofen . This should be enough to kick this cold but the rain we will be walking in again for the next for days could be a challenge to recovery.
    We visited another very old church dedicated to Mary. While not as ornate as the Cathedral it was very beautiful in its own way. We were sitting and looking at a statue of Mary when almost simultaneously both Jayme and I noticed the opposite sides of Mary. Face on, she is loving and accepting and reaching out with such kindness in her demeanor. Then you see the shadow cast but the shadow, and Mary appears so sad and dejected. In that same church, to the left of the altar is buried the first king of Portugal, and on the right side, his son.
    After that, it was naptime. I slept two solid hours and felt I could sleep til morning, but we were hungry. We returned to Restaurant Maria where we had dined last night. Dinner was just as good. We ate a chickpea salad, beef and eggplant. Then walked 3 minutes back to our apartment in pouring rain.
    The only disappointment for me was that I missed the Funeral Procession for the Dead Lord, kind of a reenactment of the procession to bury Jesus. It started at the Cathedral which would have been perfect if it wasn't at 9:30pm in the pouring rain after I had gotten back from dinner and climbed into bed.
    Tomorrow we will take a train to get a bit closer to Porto, and then begin walking again around noon.
    Read more

  • Day 15

    Its like a smoothie

    April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    The days are blending together with just a small bit of variety, maybe like a strawberry that escapes the blender blade and adds a bit of something to remember.
    Today it was more hills, more rain ( though much lighter), more small villages , abandoned homes, cata, flowers and trees, and ham and cheese for lunch. But each day has its nugget of goodness that sets it apart from the others. Today it was sweet Antonio. He is an old man we ran into somewhere along the path. We were going one way and on the opposite side of the street he was pushing his walker with the little seat rest, going the other way. I greeted him as I do everyone we pass with a " bom dia". He was so excited to see us, or maybe he would have received any pilgrim the same way. He motioned for us to wait and hurriedly (not) shuffled across the street. He doesn't really speak English bit asked "London". I said no, united states. He then asked Santiago? To which we answered yes. He grasped our hand and kissed them, then pulled each of in for the European kiss on both cheeks. He was literally glowing with happiness to wish us " bom viage". This simple act of kindness and recognition truly lightened my spirit and made my walk a bit easier.
    Tonight we are in a lovely tiny rental which gives me and Jayme a bit of private space, something we have not experienced in 2 weeks. The rental is in the middle of old town, a perfect location to explore Coimbra from on our rest day. I look forward to experiencing how the Portuguese honor Good Friday.
    Read more

  • Day 16–20

    Birth

    April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Forty nine years ago today, I gave birth to my first son, Jeffrey. I remember every moment of that day as if it were yesterday. It was a day that not only changed the course of my life, but changed me as a person. It wasn't only Jeff being born that day, a new version of Arlene was born. I remember thinking the pain was something I could never imagine doing again, and yet I was somehow able to forget it after all and remember only the good that came into my life, this wonderful person who entered my life, but also this newer improved person I had become.
    As I walk this Camino, putting myself through all this pain , purposely walking and climbing further than it feels my body can endure, I cannot imagine ever doing this again. And yet, like after childbirth, each night i remember I was in pain but I forget what it actually felt like. What stays with me is the pride I feel for being able to do this, the new appreciation I feel for all they beauty in this world, both in nature and people, the overwhelming gratitude i feel to be able to enjoy this. And there is something else that I cannot quite name growing in me and changing me. And instinctively, i know whatever this thing is, I will cherish it as much as I do my role as mother. There is a reason people have been doing this walk for centuries, some people multiple times. I am beginning to understand why. We all forget the physical pain and only remember the wonder.

    Tonight I am in Cominbriga after yet another day of hills and rain. But today was maybe the most beautiful day on the Camino so far. I walked with a sense of peace and serenity that I cannot remember ever feeling before. I also experienced my first donativo. A donativo is a gift someone makes to a pilgrim to support them on their way. If the pilgrim can make a donation to help support future giving, he can. If he cannot, he doesn't. The donativo i came across offered water coffee or tea, cookies and fruit, and a shelter and chairs to rest for a bit. There were also little shrines and places to meditate or pray. It was lovely, and every pilgrim I met there, with the exception of the pilgrim running the donativo, I had already met and recognized. Tonight I am sleeping in a dorm with 8 other people and I have a bottom bunk. Jayme and I went to dinner with a man from the Netherlands, the only other English speaker in the dorm. We ate at Tenesee's, burgers and wings! I am looking forward to Porto and some fish. It is all meat here in south!
    Read more