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Augusta to Antarctica. 2026
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Augusta to Antarctica. 2026

🇩đŸ‡ș Augusta to Antarctica – Before the Knees Give Out. Six weeks. From the quiet shores of Augusta in WA to the bottom of the planet.
We’re swapping gum trees for glaciers, kangaroos for penguins, and summer sea breezes for Antarctic katabatic winds. LĂ€s mer
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  • Resans start
    16 februari 2026
  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    All checked in.

    16 februari, Australien ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Left home about lunch time, grabbed some lunch and were at Linda and Milenko’s around 3.30.
    Went out for a preliminary beer and a feed.
    Maxi Taxi was a bit early, which was good.
    Arrived and all checked in by 9.30pm.
    Lima, here we come.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Lima, Peru. Day 1.

    17 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 24 °C

    We made it, and so did our suitcases. They were booked in from Perth. They ended up being one of the first on the Carousel.
    Needless to say we are all knackered! For us about 35 hours travel from Augusta to Lima. Longest flight 12 hours Sydney to Santiago. With lots of wait time and not enough sleep in between flights.
    First impressions of our 4 star hotel, well…… disappointing. But it is very central here in Minaflores.
    Sleep now, and then the adventuring begins.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Lima walking tour

    18 februari, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today we ventured on our own. Early start and most things were still shut.
    Kennedy Park first where there were lots of cats. But the build up was more than the park.
    Then off to the Inca Markets, where also, lots shut. And all around were lots of other markets. So many markets. So much of the same thing. Replica after replica.
    We then walked off to Huaca Pucllana, the pyramid. All mud bricks all made by hand about 400AD. Lots of work don’t to restore.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Barranco walking tour.

    19 februari, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today we explored Barranco — Lima’s colourful, slightly bohemian seaside neighbourhood — on a walking tour with our guide Gabriel… who also happened to be celebrating his 30th birthday. No pressure Gabriel, but we expected cake.
    Barranco feels like Lima’s creative soul. Murals are everywhere — massive portraits, political art, cultural icons — including the beautiful tribute to Susana Baca, a legendary Afro-Peruvian musician. Every corner feels like an outdoor gallery.
    We wandered past historic churches, one of which was destroyed in the 1940 earthquake and never repaired, which is now the home to vultures. Bright colonial buildings and quiet leafy streets before making our way along the clifftop for those classic Pacific views. From there we strolled down the Bajada de Baños — easily one of the prettiest walkways in Lima — lined with cafés, restaurants and just enough shade to keep the retirees moving.
    Barranco has that relaxed, artistic energy we love. Less big-city Lima, more seaside creative village.
    A perfect slow travel day, only 5000 steps so far today … and hopefully Gabriel finished it with a birthday beer.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Foodie tour

    19 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 23 °C

    Tonight we joined Marcos for a four-hour deep dive into Peruvian food… and wow, what a ride.
    We started with a colourful introduction to local fruit and vegetables — a beautiful spread of potatoes (so many varieties!), passionfruit, custard apple, corn, gooseberries and more chillies than any sensible person needs. Peru takes produce very seriously.
    Next stop: coffee and a pastry-style treat filled with curried chicken — somewhere between a pasty and comfort food heaven. Excellent start.

    From there things got properly local. We tried anticuchos — grilled cow heart followed by Lomo Saltado beef, onion, rice and fries. Sounds confronting, tastes delicious. Another tick for the “try everything once” travel rule.
    Then came the star: fresh ceviche prepared in front of us. Bright, citrusy, punchy — easily one of the best dishes we’ve had so far on this trip.
    Naturally, ceviche must be paired with a Pisco Sour. Marcos ensured quality control was maintained. Several times.
    Along the way there was a small moment of unexpected excitement when Kim was politely chatted to by the police — nothing dramatic, just one of those random travel moments that makes you wonder what rule you accidentally broke. Verdict: Kim remains free to continue eating.
    We wrapped up the night the only logical way — gelato and a relaxed wander through Barranco under the lights.
    A brilliant evening of food, stories, laughs and flavours that explain why Peru sits so high on the global food scene.
    Marcos absolutely nailed it.
    And yes… we ate everything.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r
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    Official Lima tour

    20 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 28 °C

    This morning we were picked up at 9am for our official Lima city tour with Alberto — a five-hour deep dive into the history, architecture and stories of Peru’s capital.
    Our first stop was the iconic Gran Hotel Bolívar, a place dripping with old-world charm and celebrity history, apparently Mick Jagger stayed here. From there we explored the heart of the historic centre, wandering through Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de Armas where grand colonial buildings, palm-lined squares and impressive government architecture set the scene.
    We passed by the magnificent Basilica (Cathedral) and stepped inside Casa de Aliaga — one of the oldest continuously inhabited houses in Lima. Walking through its ornate rooms felt like stepping straight back in time.
    Another highlight was the Basilica and Convento de San Francisco, famous for its beautiful architecture, historic library and underground catacombs (which we didn’t visit) — all incredibly impressive.
    We finished at Museo Larco, home to fascinating artefacts that tell the story of Peru’s ancient civilisations, including some very unique and memorable exhibits.
    Everything we saw today was genuinely impressive — the scale, the history, the detail — Lima’s historic centre really delivers.
    The only challenge? It was very warm and humid… and unfortunately the air-conditioning on the bus wasn’t working. Let’s just say it made the “authentic Lima experience” feel even more real 😅
    A fantastic way to round off our Lima visit with Alberto, and a great way to understand the layers of history behind this vibrant city.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Lima to Arequipa

    21 februari, Peru ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Today started very early… a 5am breakfast, bags packed and a 6:10 pickup for the airport. The Lima airport experience could best be described as chaotic but successful — lots of queues, a bit of confusion, but we made it through.
    Our flight was slightly delayed, but just over an hour later we were descending along the coastline and into a very different landscape. From the air you can see how dramatically Peru changes — dense city giving way to dry terrain, then suddenly green agricultural valleys surrounded by mountains.
    We arrived in Arequipa where Gisselle, our guide for the day, was waiting to collect us. On the way to the hotel we stopped to take in our first sights — a bit cloudy ( can you spot the difference of what we saw and what is in the brochures?) but a beautiful countryside, patchwork farmland, stone terraces, and our first look at the famous white volcanic stone architecture the city is known for.
    After checking in, it was time for a late lunch — a relaxed catch-up around the table after the early start. Spirits were good, despite the sleepy faces.
    Now we reset briefly before heading out again… preparing for our late afternoon and evening walking tour to properly discover Arequipa.
    New city. New altitude. New food.
    And the adventure continues.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Arequipa walking tour.

    21 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 15 °C

    After a short reset, Gisselle continued guiding us through our first real exploration of Arequipa — and what a beautiful city it is.
    We began near the Plaza de Armas, wandering through the historic cloisters. These elegant stone arcades were originally part of religious and administrative buildings during the Spanish colonial period. Built from the city’s famous white volcanic stone (sillar), the cloisters were designed as quiet, reflective spaces — linking chapels, residences and courtyards while providing shelter from the sun and rain. Walking through them today, you can feel that calm still lingering.
    From there we spent quite some time inside the Convent of Santa Catalina, one of Arequipa’s most remarkable places.
    Founded in 1579, the convent was essentially a city within a city. It housed nuns from wealthy Spanish families who often brought servants and possessions with them. Rather than simple monastic life, many lived in private rooms arranged along colourful streets, courtyards and small plazas — which is why the convent feels like wandering through a miniature town.
    The vivid red and blue walls, narrow passageways, quiet prayer rooms and preserved living spaces gave us a fascinating glimpse into how life was lived here for centuries. It’s peaceful, atmospheric and surprisingly large — easy to lose track of time exploring.
    We finished the tour the best way possible — a well-earned beer overlooking the Plaza, watching the city move into evening.
    Back at the room, it was time for a traditional coca tea — recommended to help our bodies adjust to the altitude. A gentle reminder that this adventure is now heading higher.
    Arequipa already feels special.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Arequipa to Chivay

    22 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 9 °C

    Today was our first real taste of the Andes as we travelled from Arequipa to Chivay, heading deep into the spectacular Colca Canyon region.
    Leaving Arequipa, the impact of a huge rain event from just days ago was impossible to miss — landslides, damaged roads and muddy detours reminding us how powerful the landscape is out here. It felt raw, recent and very real.
    As we climbed higher, the scenery changed quickly. The city disappeared, replaced by vast open plains, rocky hills and, allegedly, towering volcanoes surrounding us in every direction (but covered in cloud). The land looked harsh and barren, yet somehow people live, farm and raise animals here — a quiet reminder of how resilient life in the Andes is.
    Along the way we stopped several times to stretch our legs and meet the locals — vicuñas, llamas and alpacas grazing calmly in the thin mountain air. Seeing vicuñas in the wild was a highlight — elegant, watchful and perfectly at home at altitude.
    One memorable roadside stop introduced us to Misti tea, a local herbal infusion often recommended (along with coca tea) to help with acclimatisation. Whether it worked or not… I’m not entirely sure — because as we pushed toward nearly 5,000 m, I definitely started to feel it. A bit light-headed, slightly off… the altitude making its presence known.
    The journey itself was stunning — creeks and rivers fed by ice melt, wide open plains dotted with grazing animals, old stone buildings standing alone in the landscape, and endless skies stretching across the Altiplano.
    By the time we reached Chivay, it felt like we had travelled not just in distance — but into a completely different world.
    High, remote, dramatic… and unforgettable.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r
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    Chasing Condors

    23 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 12 °C

    Today was all about condors… which meant an early start.
    A 7am departure had us on the bus heading deeper into the Colca Valley, the landscape already looking spectacular in the morning light — patchwork terraces, dramatic mountains and villages slowly waking up.
    Our first stop was Yanque, where we visited the beautiful church and watched local school children perform traditional dances in the town square. A lovely moment — colourful, joyful and very much part of daily life here (and yes… a few Sol well spent).
    From there we continued towards Colca Canyon and the famous Mirador del Condor.
    The canyon is enormous — the river carving its way far below, ancient agricultural terraces lining the slopes, reminders of how productive this region once was. We joined the crowd, cameras ready… and waited.
    And waited.
    Eventually, tiny silhouettes appeared in the distance. Condors. Technically a success — visually… a bit underwhelming.
    So we did what any determined travellers would do — we chased them.
    Moving further down the valley paid off. Suddenly they were closer, gliding effortlessly on the thermals, huge wings stretched wide, completely unbothered by the excited humans below. One of those moments where you remember just how big and wild this landscape really is.
    On the way back we stopped in Maca for a very welcome toilet break and a browse through the local market stalls — colourful textiles, souvenirs and plenty of friendly sales pitches. Bonus wildlife moment too — a hawk posing nicely for photos.
    Today had everything: mountain scenery, culture, patience, persistence… and finally, condors doing exactly what condors do best.
    Worth the early start.    LĂ€s mer

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    Chivay to Puno

    24 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 10 °C

    Another early start today — 7am — and straight into one of the more memorable experiences of the trip.
    Our first stop was a farm visit where we spent a couple of hours with a local woman learning about the grains and pulses grown at altitude. Quinoa, corn, broad beans and more — foods we see everywhere but rarely understand where they come from. It was a gentle stroll through the fields, although the altitude definitely reminded us we are sea-level people.
    We were one traveller down today. Linda wasn’t feeling well with stomach cramps, so she stayed behind at the hotel in the village while the rest of us explored.
    After the farm visit we returned to Chivay to collect our boxed lunches before beginning the long drive to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
    It was a big travel day — several hours on the bus with a few scenic stops along the way. One of the highlights was Patapampa, the highest point of our journey at just under 5,000 metres. The views across the Andes were spectacular — vast landscapes, dramatic skies and that unmistakable feeling of being very, very small.
    We also stopped at a roadside junction linking Chivay, Arequipa and Puno to eat our lunch boxes — which felt very much like a school excursion moment… nostalgic, practical and, if we’re honest, fairly average.
    The scenery throughout the drive was extraordinary — wide valleys, patchwork farmland, traditional dress, roaming alpacas and endless mountain horizons. Peru keeps delivering those “look out the window and just stare” moments.
    It was a long, tiring travel day but a beautiful one.
    We arrived in Puno around 5pm, settling in on the edge of Lake Titicaca — ready for the next chapter.
    Altitude: felt.
    Scenery: spectacular.
    Lunch box: passable.
    Memories: excellent    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Lake Titicaca, teenage dream vs reality

    25 februari, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Another early start — 7am — and we were picked up by Nestor and taken down to the port to begin a day I’d been waiting for since I was a teenager.
    Lake Titicaca — and especially the floating reed islands — had lived in my imagination for decades. Back then our family had the Time-Life book collection, and the South America volume captured my attention. The Peru pages — particularly the reed islands — felt almost mythical.
    Our guide Percy took us first to Uros. Seeing how entire islands are built from reeds is genuinely fascinating — clever, resourceful and culturally significant. But I have to admit… it felt different to the version I’d carried in my head.
    Fifty years changes things. Where thousands once lived on reed islands, today only hundreds remain, and tourism now plays a big role. It was interesting — absolutely — but there was a quiet sense that my childhood picture and the modern reality didn’t quite align.
    From there we travelled on to Taquile Island. The arrival came with the now familiar challenge of altitude — the walk from the port up to the village was slow, breath-stealing and a reminder that sea-level lungs are not built for this.
    We were welcomed by local leaders and introduced to Taquile’s famous textiles — intricate, meaningful and deeply woven into everyday life. Watching the demonstrations and wandering the market stalls was a highlight.
    Lunch was simple and local: quinoa soup followed by fried trout with rice and fries, enjoyed with sweeping views across the lake — one of those moments where the scenery quietly steals the show.
    A big part of the day was spent on the boat — probably close to six hours — crossing the vast expanse of the lake and moving between islands. The scale of Lake Titicaca is impressive, but it makes for a long day.
    This was one of those travel experiences where expectation and reality meet. I’m glad we came — it’s iconic, culturally important and undeniably unique — but it didn’t quite match the version I’d carried since those Time-Life book days.
    And that’s travel.
    Sometimes you discover a place… and sometimes you discover how your memories have shaped it long before you arrive.    LĂ€s mer

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    Puno to Cuzco

    26 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 12 °C

    Another early start today — bags ready and down in the lobby for a 6:15 pickup. A long travel day ahead, but this one felt special. The destination was another of those teenage dreams from the old Time-Life books… Cusco.
    By 7am we were at the bus station and soon after we rolled out of Puno right on time.
    Our first stop was Pukara — where the toilets were appreciated, but the small museum behind the very well-stocked shop turned out to be the real surprise. Marco, our guide for the day, gave us a quick tour — mostly in Spanish — which became the theme for the journey.
    About 90 minutes later we reached La Raya, the high point between regions and a spectacular spot. Kim found some wool for a future project — travel memories now come home in very practical ways.
    Lunch was in Sicuani around midday. A relaxed stop, good food, and some very friendly dogs happy to greet passing travellers.
    Next was Raqchi, which I found genuinely fascinating. A complex used for storage — grain, potatoes and supplies — built on top of an earlier Huaca site, layers of history again. The Inca Trail runs nearby, which added a quiet sense of connection to everything we’ve been learning.
    Our final stop was the church at Andahuaylillas. Locals proudly say it rivals the Sistine Chapel. No photos or video allowed inside, so you’ll have to trust us — but even from the outside you can sense it’s something special.
    We arrived at the Cusco bus station around 5:30pm and by 6:30, after our transfer, we were finally in our room.
    A big travel day.
    Another childhood image becoming real.
    And tomorrow — we start exploring Cusco. ✹    LĂ€s mer

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    Cusco tour

    27 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 15 °C

    Today started with what was meant to be a sleep-in… but travel excitement had other ideas. Carlos picked us up at 9am after a relaxed breakfast and we set off for a gentle day exploring some of Cusco’s most important historical sites.
    Our first stop was Sacsayhuamán — a vast ceremonial complex perched above Cusco. Every time Carlos said the name I couldn’t help hearing “sexy woman” — which definitely added some unintended entertainment to the history lesson.
    The scale of the site is extraordinary. The famous zig-zag walls are made from enormous stones, some weighing over 100 tonnes, fitted together so precisely you can’t slide a piece of paper between them. It’s even more remarkable knowing many stones were later taken by the Spanish to build colonial Cusco.
    Next was Qenqo, a sacred ceremonial site associated with rituals for the elite. Here we descended into the underground chambers — a maze-like carved rock space believed to have been used for mummification and ceremonial preparation of high-status individuals. Standing inside those smooth carved passages, you can feel how significant this place once was.
    A very important cultural stop followed… an alpaca shop!! Luckily we avoided spending any money, but we did learn the differences between fake and real alpaca wool.
    Our final stop was Cusco Cathedral, built directly on top of former Inca foundations — a theme you see repeatedly across the city. Inside (no photos allowed) it was incredibly opulent: gold leaf, enormous artworks, carved wood and grand chapels everywhere. The Spanish certainly knew how to build monumental churches… often using stones from the very Inca temples they replaced.
    The tour was supposed to finish at 1pm… but travel time operates on its own schedule and we wrapped up after 2 — meaning a very welcome late lunch.
    Kim had a mission in Cusco: buy wool. Mission accomplished — and posted home. Quest completed ✔
    Mid-afternoon rain rolled in, raincoats came out, and while it slightly dampened the mood (and limited our time wandering Cusco’s main square), it also added that classic Andean atmosphere — dramatic skies, shiny cobblestones and the sense of a city that has seen centuries of change.
    Another day where history feels layered everywhere — Inca foundations, colonial ambition and modern Cusco all sitting on top of each other.
    And importantly… wool secured.    LĂ€s mer

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    One step closer.

    28 februari, Peru ⋅ ☁ 14 °C

    Today wasn’t the destination — it was the build-up. And what a build-up it was.
    An 8am departure from Cusco (still sitting at a casual 3,200m above sea level) and we wound our way down into the Sacred Valley toward Pisaq. I suspect this is one of those places people either skim through or completely fall for. I was firmly in the second camp.
    Pisaq is beautifully positioned, deliberately placed to look down each valley it oversees. Terraces ripple across the mountainsides like contour lines on a living map. Burial caves dot the cliffs. The stonework — tight, clever, purposeful — speaks of a civilisation that really understood both landscape and astronomy. I could easily have spent hours wandering.
    Somewhere along the road (honestly couldn’t tell you which village) we passed street vendors cooking guinea pigs. When in Peru… observe respectfully and keep driving! 😄
    Then on to Ollantaytambo — and this one genuinely raised the bar. Massive terraces climbing steeply toward the unfinished Temple of the Sun. Pre-Inca stonework respectfully left by the Inca builders who created new foundations. Enormous blocks shaped and positioned with mind-bending precision. You can almost feel the story pause mid-sentence — construction halted by the arrival of the Spanish.
    We had 50 minutes of free time, which of course translated into:
    “How high can we get without missing the bus?”
    Milenko and I powered upward and did pretty well. The views back down the valley were spectacular, with the same mindset as Pisaq to view every valley and up close the stonework is even more impressive — perfectly carved chunks of rock, water channels, walkways. Engineering and art combined.
    By 3pm, after a basic but perfectly acceptable lunch and refreshing iced coffee, we were at Ollantaytambo train station ready for the two-hour train journey to Aguas Calientes — the gateway to Machu Picchu.
    Hotel by 5:30.
    Craft beer bar by 5:50.
    Pale ale in hand shortly after.
    Balance restored.
    Tomorrow: 6am start.
    Machu Picchu awaits.
    The teenage Time-Life-book dream is about to step off the page.    LĂ€s mer

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    Machu Picchu - teenage dream achieved

    1 mars, Peru ⋅ ☁ 18 °C

    Today was the day. The 6am pickup felt early… but when you’re heading to Machu Picchu, suddenly you’re wide awake.
    Entry is capped at 5,000 people per day and our allocated time was 7am. We arrived 15 minutes early, slightly smug, slightly excited, and possibly slightly nervous about the bus ride up what is officially called the Hiram Bingham Road (yes, named after the chap who brought Machu Picchu to the world’s attention in 1911). Endless switchbacks, sheer drops, and just enough drama to make you very aware you’re in the Andes.
    At 7am sharp, through the gates we went.
    The first climb to the classic viewpoint is no joke – especially for a cheerful gang of over-60 wanderers – but wow… worth every step. The entire citadel was wrapped in drifting cloud. Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain played hide and seek behind the mist, revealing themselves in dramatic bursts. It honestly felt like the city was breathing.
    We did Circuit 2, which is considered the most complete route through the site. It gives you:
    • The classic postcard view from above
    • The Sacred Plaza
    • The Temple of the Sun
    • The Temple of the Three Windows
    • Residential areas and agricultural terraces
    It’s essentially the full storytelling circuit — ceremonial spaces, living quarters, engineering brilliance and those impossibly precise stone walls that somehow survived earthquakes for centuries.
    We took just under four hours, moving steadily, soaking it all in, and somehow managing to capture photos without crowds (small miracle). The terraces were glowing green against the grey stone. The mist rolled in and out like theatre curtains. Every turn revealed another perfect alignment of mountain, sky and ancient architecture.
    For a site built in the 15th century at 2,430 metres above sea level, the engineering is mind-blowing. Drainage systems, agricultural planning, astronomical alignment — this wasn’t just a city; it was a masterpiece.
    Fitness report: passed.
    Breathing report: slightly dramatic at times.
    Overall enjoyment: absolutely through the roof.
    This one has lived in my head since the old Time-Life books days. Today it stepped out of the pages and into real life.
    Bucket list? Ticked.
    Still smiling? Very much so.    LĂ€s mer

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    Guinea pig - coz when in Peru!

    1 mars, Peru ⋅ ☁ 17 °C

    It was suggested to us more than once — “You can’t come to Peru and not try cuy.”
    So… in the town of Machu Picchu, that’s exactly what we did.
    When it arrived at the table, there was no mistaking what it was. Head still on. Teeth proudly on display. Crispy skin glistening under the lights. No nuggets, no disguise — just the full Peruvian experience staring back at us.
    To be fair, the skin was beautifully crisp. The meat? Much fattier than I ever imagined. That surprised me the most. For something that scurries around looking fairly lean, it certainly packs a bit of richness.
    I gave it a solid attempt. Chewed thoughtfully. Reflected deeply. Nodded politely.
    But… I didn’t finish it.
    And that’s okay.
    Because travel isn’t just about seeing new places — it’s about stepping outside your comfort zone, even if that comfort zone once involved a childhood pet.
    Would I order it again? Probably not.
    Am I glad I tried it? Absolutely.
    Another tick on the bucket list. Another story for the grandkids????? Another moment where we looked at each other across the table and thought, “Well… this is different.”
    Not So Grey Wanderers — still curious, still adventurous… occasionally slightly traumatised. 😄    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Travel day.

    2 mars, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today was one of those “hurry up and wait” kind of days.
    A 7:30am pickup from the hotel in Cusco had us loading bags into the van while the city was still waking up. Hard to believe just days ago we were wandering Inca ruins and climbing terraces — now we were heading for the airport.
    Our flight left Cusco at 9:40am, banking over the Andes one last time. Those mountains really are something special from the air — rugged, dramatic and a fitting farewell to Peru.
    We landed in Santiago at 3:00pm local time, a smooth transition but with that slight mental recalibration that comes from crossing borders and time zones.
    Next stop: Buenos Aires.
    Our 6:50pm flight is a quick two-hour hop across the Andes again — trading ceviche and llamas for steak and Malbec.
    Another country ticked off. The adventure rolls on âœˆïžđŸ·    LĂ€s mer

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    Buenos Aires means Tango.

    3 mars, Argentina ⋅ ☁ 26 °C

    After yesterday’s marathon travel day, today was intentionally a slow one. No alarms, no rushing — just easing into Buenos Aires life.
    The morning began with a late breakfast at the hotel before we wandered out around midday to explore the shopping mall near the Libertador Hotel. It was a gentle introduction to the city — busy streets, stylish locals and plenty of shops to poke our heads into. Nothing too ambitious today… just stretching the legs and taking it all in.
    The afternoon was equally relaxed with some travel admin back in the room — the glamorous side of long trips that never quite makes it onto Instagram!
    But the real highlight of the day began at 7pm, when we were picked up from the hotel and taken to the Michelangelo Tango Show in the historic San Telmo district.
    The venue itself is impressive — a beautiful old brick cellar space that feels very much like stepping back into old Buenos Aires. The evening started with dinner, which was very enjoyable. We sampled some classic Argentine flavours, including empanadas and a rather excellent chorizo sandwich proudly flying the Argentine flag.
    Then the lights dimmed and the show began.
    For the next couple of hours we were treated to a full tango experience — live musicians, passionate singers and incredibly skilled dancers. Tango, which was born in the working-class neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires in the late 1800s, is a mix of drama, elegance and a bit of fiery attitude. The dancers made it look effortless, gliding and snapping across the stage with incredible precision.
    There were moments of humour, moments of intensity, and plenty of jaw-dropping footwork. One performer even incorporated traditional boleadoras — spinning cords with weights used by Argentine gauchos — adding a dramatic and very noisy finale!
    It was a really enjoyable evening and a perfect way to experience a piece of Argentina’s cultural heart.
    A relaxed day… but a memorable night in Buenos Aires.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Buenos Aires tour

    4 mars, Argentina ⋅ ☀ 29 °C

    Today was our scheduled Buenos Aires city tour, with a 9am start and a day that quickly warmed up under a bright sun that definitely had a bit of bite to it.
    Our first stop was a small but interesting chapel, a quiet place that felt a world away from the busy streets outside. From there we moved on to one of the city’s well-known parks to see the huge shiny aluminium flower sculpture — Floralis Genérica. The idea is that the giant petals open during the day and close at night like a real flower… except it was stuck open and apparently not working at the moment. Still impressive though.
    Next stop was another large park containing a beautiful rose garden, said to have more than 18,000 rose bushes. It was a lovely place to wander through, with joggers and walkers making the most of the sunny morning. The resident geese also seemed to think they owned the place and happily wandered around the lawns.
    From there we visited Recoleta Cemetery, where we paid the $10 USD (!) entry to see the famous mausoleum of Eva Perón (Evita). The cemetery itself is fascinating — more like a small stone city filled with elaborate family tombs, statues and mausoleums from Argentina’s wealthy past. (And at 10US each, still working on wealthy!)
    After a short wander through the city centre we arrived at a much larger and very impressive church — the Metropolitan Cathedral of Buenos Aires. This is an important church here and has been visited twice by Pope Francis back when he was Archbishop of Buenos Aires. We happened to arrive just in time to see the changing of the guards outside one of the more important side chapels, which was a nice bonus.
    One of the more unusual stops was a visit to a spectacular bookstore that used to be a theatre. The old stage, balconies and ornate decorations have all been preserved, making it one of the most unique bookstores we’ve seen — and it was very busy with people browsing and taking photos.
    Our final major stop was La Boca, considered one of the original neighbourhoods where many immigrants first settled in the late 1800s. The area is famous for its colourful buildings along Caminito, and it was easily the most vibrant and interesting part of the tour. Street art, music, dancers and bright painted houses everywhere.
    We stopped there for lunch and tried some empanadas, which were very good… although the iced coffee didn’t quite reach the same standard.
    After one last wander through the colourful streets of La Boca, we wrapped up the tour and were dropped back at the hotel around 3pm, ready for a bit of a rest after a full and very warm day exploring Buenos Aires.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r

    Buenos Aires food tour.

    5 mars, Argentina ⋅ ☁ 22 °C

    Today was deliberately a quiet one because we knew the evening would involve a traditional Argentinian food tour.
    We started with a sleep-in (a rare luxury on this trip!) followed by a late breakfast and near lunch time a gentle wander around the shopping precinct near our hotel, the Libertador Hotel Buenos Aires. A coffee and a small cake seemed like a wise tactical decision in preparation for what promised to be a very big dinner later.
    By late afternoon we made our way to the office of Signature Tours. Being a little early meant we had time to duck into a nearby bar for a quick pre-tour beer — purely for cultural research of course.
    At 6pm we met our guide Lourdes, who kicked off the tour with a small tasting — cheese, olives and salami served with a vermouth and Malbec, a very Argentine way to begin the evening.
    From there we wandered through what appeared to be the lively neighbourhood of Palermo Soho, an area packed with restaurants, bars and people out enjoying the warm evening air.
    The Food Stops
    đŸ„Ÿ Empanadas
    Our first food stop was for empanadas. There were a few choices — I went for the cheese and onion, while Kim opted for the vegetarian option.
    🌭 Choripán
    A few blocks later we tried one of Argentina’s most famous street foods — choripán, a grilled sausage sandwich topped with chimichurri. The streets around us were buzzing with locals eating, drinking and walking their dogs — a great atmosphere.
    đŸ„© Argentine BBQ (Parrilla)
    Next came the main event — a traditional Argentine BBQ with salad and more Malbec. Argentina certainly knows how to do steak.
    🍹 Gelato Finale
    To finish the evening we stopped at a gelato shop where the ice cream was excellent and definitely the highlight of the dessert round.
    Our Honest Thoughts
    Overall it was a pleasant evening and a good way to sample some classic Argentine foods.
    However, the experience wasn’t quite as polished as we expected. Two trainee guides joined the tour, which meant Lourdes spent quite a bit of time explaining things to them in Spanish rather than talking to the group. As a result we sometimes felt a little left to our own devices.
    Two members of our group were also missing — one unfortunately spent the day in hospital — which meant there was extra food that ended up going to the guides.
    A few small things also let it down a little:
    • the empanadas appeared to be reheated in a microwave
    • the choripán bread was a bit stale
    • and our steak arrived very rare (almost blue) without being asked how we wanted it cooked.
    But travel is always about the experience as much as the perfection — and wandering the lively Buenos Aires streets at night, sampling local food and wine, is still a pretty good way to spend an evening.
    And the gelato?
    That part was definitely a win.    LĂ€s mer

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  • notsogreywanderersAugusta to Antarctica. 2026ResenĂ€r
    111

    Iguazu Falls - Argentine side.

    8 mars, Argentina ⋅ ☀ 33 °C

    Today was all about one of South America’s most famous natural wonders — Iguazú Falls, and we tackled it from the Argentinian side.
    It started with a fairly civilised 7:50am pickup, along with a few other guests from our hotel. The park entrance is about 22km away, so after a short drive through the subtropical forest we arrived at the visitor centre ready for the day.
    Our guide, Daniela, was… let’s say loosely organised. Nobody seemed to know who had prepaid tickets and who hadn’t, which led to a fair bit of two-ing and fro-ing in the growing heat while things were sorted out. Eventually the mystery was solved and we made our way into the park.
    We had reservations for the 10:15 train that takes visitors across the river to the start of the Devil’s Throat walk, although by the time everything got moving it was closer to 10:45 before we were rolling. By now the temperature and humidity were making themselves known — classic subtropical jungle weather.
    From the train station it’s about a 1.2–1.3 km boardwalk stretching across the river towards the famous Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat). The walkway was absolutely packed with visitors, but along the way we had a great little wildlife encounter with some coatis wandering around looking for snacks and curious tourists.
    And then… we reached the viewing platform.
    The water thunders over the edge into an enormous horseshoe-shaped abyss and the mist rises up like steam from a giant kettle. The roar is incredible and the spray quickly soaks anyone standing near the railings. It’s one of those places where photos never quite capture the scale — you just have to stand there and take it in.
    We managed to dry off slightly as we walked the 1.2 km back, now feeling the full force of the heat and humidity.
    Lunch followed around 12:30pm. The menu consisted of a Caesar salad, a chicken schnitzel and cheese roll, and a Powerade each. The verdict? Pretty average… especially considering the bill came to about $70 AUD!
    After lunch some of us decided to continue the adventure with the Lower Circuit, roughly a 3km round trip of trails and viewing platforms. The views were excellent, getting us closer to several of the individual waterfalls, but by now the temperature had climbed to 34°C with serious humidity, which made the walking feel a lot tougher than expected.
    We regrouped afterwards and completed the Upper Circuit, which offers sweeping panoramic views across the enormous wall of waterfalls that stretch across the river. It’s incredibly scenic and really shows just how vast this waterfall system is.
    For context, Iguazú Falls is made up of around 275 separate waterfalls spread across nearly 3 kilometres, sitting on the border of Argentina and Brazil, and it’s rightly considered one of the great natural wonders of the world.
    By the end of the afternoon the heat and humidity had definitely taken the shine off everyone’s energy levels, but despite that it was still an unforgettable experience. The scale, power and sheer number of waterfalls make Iguazú something truly special.
    One very big day… and tomorrow we’ll see what the Brazilian side has to offer.    LĂ€s mer

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