• Billie Martinson
  • messer
  • Billie Martinson
  • messer

Süd Amerika 2024-2025

4 Monate - 5 Länder
🇵🇪 solo
🇧🇴 solo
🇨🇱 together with Andreas
🇦🇷 together with Andreas
🇧🇷 for the end
En savoir plus
  • Début du voyage
    3 octobre 2024

    Huaraz

    4 octobre 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Arrival in Huaraz (3100 m)
    After about 24 hours of travel, I got warmly welcomed at the airport from Rocìo, who will be my guide for the Huayhuash Trek.
    She took me to « Charlie » for breakfast, where I could enjoy avocado toast without worrying how many kilometer they flew: Peru is the world biggest avocado producer :)
    We talked about the next days acclimation hikes:
    5.10: Laguna 69
    6.10 Laguna Churup
    7.10 Pico Matteo
    From 8.10 Huayhuash Trek
    I decided to to the famous and easy Mirador del Rataquenua hike to move a bit after the long plane journey and beat jet lag. I met Nicolas on the way, spent the afternoon speaking French about everything and anything.
    Finished the day at the hostel, where the tenants decided to make a fire. The smoke got so intense in the whole building that my neighbor rushed out of the room asking if the building was on fire.
    En savoir plus

  • Huayhuash Trekking

    8–15 oct. 2024, Pérou ⋅ 🌩️ 7 °C

    Huayhuash Trekking (8 days- 7 nights).
    This trekking spans above 126 km- 6’705 m elevation gain in the most magical nature I might have experienced yet.
    What struck me the most is the intensity and diversity of the colors. Guided by a superwomen of a guide (Rocio, whose father pioneered the Huayhuash Trek) and her son Andy, our 8 person group could explore the Cordillera Huayhuash. We were accompanied by Sonia, Rocio’s sister and cook extraordinaire and Carlos and Robinson, taking care of the donkeys.
    A truly special experience with very special people. I might buccher the passes and mountain names, I am sorry for this, this was translated from Queshuan to Spanish; I am fluent in neither of them.
    Day 1: Departure from Huaraz later than expected (09.30 instead of 5:00) to rest tired Costa Ricains who summited the Pico Matteo the day before. It takes about 4:30 hours to arrive to LLamac, the village that serves as departure point for the Huayhuash Trekking and where our guide Rocio grew up. We get to know Marino, Rocio’s father and Huayhuash legend and outside of the village her mother (Mathilde, who, at 74 years old lives alone in a shelter in the mountains. We set camp at 4180 m above sea in Cuartel Wain.
    Day 2: Cuartel Wain- Carhuacocha (17 km)
    Start is fixed at 6:00 and at 6:50 everybody gets going. The first ascent leads us to the Cacanapunta Pass (4700 m) which separates the Ancash Region to the Huanuco. The second pass is Carua, which I walk alone with Neema, the american of our group. We arrive at the Carbuacocha Laguna: a lake surplombed by the highest peaks I have ever seen. In this remote place live Ernest and Gloria, who survive through farming and selling beers and Inka Cola to the thirsty tourists. Camp with the most beautiful view at Carbuacocha. I learn 2 Spanish words a days (today: acetuna, mujado and how to tell I don’t have money in Queshuan).
    Day 3:
    We leave along the lac, the turquoise water contrasts with the golden « hucho ». We climb the Seula Pass (4800m) and have a clear view of the surrounding mountains. Jesus spends 2 hours telling me about his life in Spanish, I understand about 70% :). Dinner is fresh trout from the river.
    Day 4:
    Ascension of the Trapezio Pass (5’100 m), followed by a off the path climb to 5200 m, where the majestic Huayhuash Cordillera surprises us and leaves everybody speechless. This day is the most varied of the trip: yellow valleys, huges, white peaks, striking lagunas, red rocks and friable looking stony ridges. We go down to our camp in what looks a starting storm, which dies pretty soon. We wash in the river and even watch « Broad Peak » (courtesy of the Costa Rican) in the tent.
    Day 5:
    It is the day of the San Antonio viewpoint, about 2 hours above our camp (5’200m). We start early and are rewarded with once again a beautiful view, alone at the pass. We have the Juraud (6400 m), Sarapo (6300 m) and Sacada (>5500 m) right in front of us, and of course the Siula Grande (6344 m), featured in the movie « Touching the void ». We go back to the Elephant Valley, where our camp is and start the long descent to the village of Huayallapa. Carlos is from this little town and we sleep in his hostel ((almost) hot shower!- wifi!). This is the only evening where it rains pretty heavily, we are very lucky with the weather.
    Day 6:
    From the village we need to climb 1200 m to reach the Tapushpunta Pass at 4750m. At the pass I meet a group of Chilean Backpackers (they do the trek solo), one of them explain the O Trek to me by drawing in the mud. At the camp Gashapampa, it is sunny, Jesus grind coffee beans from Costa Rica with his thermos bottle. In the evening, the superstitious Latin American exchange ghost stories.
    Day 7:
    Pass of Yaucha (4800m) with a snow storm. Some brave participants decide to climb further and we are rewarded by a nice view, sun and most importantly 3 gigantic condors, which fly above us. From the view point we see the camp in the valley, next 2 lagunas and in the background a giant glacier. The descent is longer and harder than Sierre Zinal but we make it. I decide to do an extra walk to go closer to the glacier and find myself on top of a cliff above a turquoise lake, with the glacier right before me and a rainbow. Pure bliss! Dinner is spent slighlty worrying about the international strike that might disturb our return to Lima and therefore the flights of some participants.
    Day 8:
    Last day! After the mandatory photoshooting in front of the summit, we leave. A « Mirador » later, we start the gruelling descent to Llamac. We made it, it is the end. We eat at Rocio’s house and leave by bus to Huaraz.
    I take one of the best showers of my life and we have a last dinner together in Huaraz before I take the bus with Neema to Lima. I sleep like a baby in the very comfortable bus.
    En savoir plus

  • Lima

    16–19 oct. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Lima! A 11 million people metropole bustling with life. The feeling of so many people living so close to each other is fascinating to me. However, the city is very crowded with cars (there is a 4 lanes highway crossing the city!) and this is resented in the air we breathe. Lima is built on the coast, mostly slightly elevated,with sand cliffs and in the nice parts of the city, a path runs along, with many joggers and bikers.
    I stayed 3 days in total in Lima, running and surfing in the morning and socialising in the evening.
    On the first day I visited Andrea and family’s in the La Molina, a part slightly outside of the town. Little oases are created in the sandy mountains, however Andrea showed me all ways the richer people protect themselves from the poorer: gated communities (they enclose themselves to protect themselves), the houses are build on the other side of mountains to put a natural protection between poorer areas and the richer ones, some municipalities even building a wall on the top of the mountains. Even so, when night falls, you can apparently spot many light points of people attempting the cross of the mountains towards the gated communities.
    We visit the old city Center (Lima was once called the Pearl of South America, but the old, colonial part has since decayed with the expanding of the city towards the harbours). Sign warn you of potential collapsing facades but parts have been renovated and some pedestrian area remind you of the antic splendour. We get to the Plaza de Armas, the mandatory many square of each city or town in Peru. Because a protest was expected with potential violence, we leave early and find a nice cafe to eat lunch. I drink a coffee with Andrea’s uncle, 82, who impressively drove us through Lima and go back to my hostel.
    The evening is bitter sweet, Huayhuash reunion before everybody leaves. We got invited to Rossana’s apartment, which occupies 4(!!) floors on the top floor of a luxury tower in Miraflores. The view of Lima is almost as enticing as the mountain views we just experienced.
    The two second days are slow, filled with running, surfing (my group lesson turned private with a nice instructor called Matthias. Not sure if surfing or understanding explication about surfing in Spanish was the most complicated for me!), strolling around Miraflores with a brief excursion to see the Magic Fountain Show. My only regret: did not experienced as much as the food scene as I expected, something I want to correct with cerviche in Paracas. With recharged batteries I head south along the endless coast towards Paracas. I write this text on the bus on the Pan Americana Highway (seems that so far I got my car sickness under control!)
    En savoir plus

  • Paracas

    19–21 oct. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Two and a half day in Paracas.
    The bus ride from Lima to Paracas takes about 3h45 and I am impressed by the punctuality and efficiency.
    Everything goes smoothly and we are dropped on the main square of Paracas around 12:00. After a quick stop at the hostel to deposit the luggage, I go to a « secret » spot for lunch with a French friend met in the bus. Best cerviche so far! A stroll on the beach and across the touristic town round up the afternoon. In the evening I tried a restaurant on the Main Street with a friend met in Huaraz but the Cerviche does not hold up to the one at lunch (yes, 2 Cerviche a day 🙈).
    The next day we start at 07:30 for a Tour of the Ballesta Islands, also called the Galápagos Islands of the poor. Interesting rock formations, many birds (including the cutest penguin couple), see lions,…although not the best season, we see many animals!
    In the afternoon I rent a (bad) bike and go explore the Paracas Reserve on my own. I ride across the desert against a strong wind but the rugged coast and pink flamingos at the end are worth it.
    A kayak excursion at sunrise is booked for the last day before taking the bus to Arequipa. It turns out to be kind of a scam, instead of the promised dolphins and flamingo reserve, we just paddle along the shore where big villas are built. I am paired with very American American, fortunately I sit in the front: I almost do not touch the water due to mass differences.
    Oh well, now onto 13h10 bus drive to Arequipa!
    En savoir plus

  • Arequipa

    23–25 oct. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I just googled “world’s most romantic cities in the world” and let me tell you, Google has no clue. Arequipa is not mentioned anywhere and “romantic” was the first word that came to mind when visiting the “White City”.
    I loved the colonial architecture in the white volcano stone, the small streets and a generally less hectic vibe than Lima and Paracas.
    As I got sick on the bus 15 hours bus journey from Paracas, I was not really active and strolled around the city on a very slow pace. I had to interrupt my first attempt on a free walking tour on the first day but managed on the second one.
    The group tour was fine, what I most noticed were the other participants who, if you allow me some satire, fitted perfectly every clichée you would expect. You had:
    1. The German couple, mid thirties, slighlty overweighed, he had a smiley resting face, she a loop sided. Deuter Backpacks, ill fitted jeans and sunglasses, On shoes
    2. The Insta couple: she wore the shortest short with the shortest crop top, trendy accessoires. He (the insta boyfriend) got the tatoos, the T-shirt with deep thoughts (something about the ink of your thoughts coloring your soul?). Barely listened, she posed, he took pictures and she told him to make better pictures. No tip at the end
    3. The French Backpackers: have been travelling for a while, used to budget travel, could not shake their French education though, tried to answer every trivia question with intensity and asked deep questions about the architecture
    4, 2 californian in their mid-forties: flowy dresses, came late, complained they wanted to walk faster. Did not listen at all, just took pictures of each others and ditched the tour before the end.
    5. Some decent people ;)
    The Covent of Santa Catalina was a highlight for me, I paid extra for a guided tour (I was alone) and I really enjoyed it. It is beautiful, well preserved and very colorful. It is like an entire village within the Covent, I recommend a visit!
    The second highlight was Primero, the very sweet man at the Hotel who was happy to talk to me about anything and everything. I almost missed my night bus because of our very nice discussions.
    En savoir plus

  • Cusco

    24–28 oct. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Cusco
    Unfortunately sick since Arequipa, the situation got worse and I had to cancel my Inca Trails plans.
    But life works beautifully and I could book it for a week later.
    This means time to rest and explore other parts of the region once I got better!En savoir plus

  • Salkantay Trek

    28–30 oct. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Salkantay Trek (incomplete) solo
    As part of my recovery I decided to hike the 2 first stages of the Salkantay Trek solo.
    Departure with collectivos from Cusco early morning; it is incredible of well everything works.
    3 hours drive to Mollepata, where a taxi is already waiting, and as we are 4 tourists staring the trek there is not a minute waiting time, we all embark and drive to Challacancha, the park entrance.
    I start my hike, still feeling weak from the sickness but enjoying the beautiful flat path on my own.
    I arrive to Soraypampa and my charming hostel after about 2,5 hours walk. A short beak and check in later, I start the ascension to the Humantay Lake. Beautiful views, I enjoy the scenes and the sun.
    Back to the hostel for a cold shower, more views of the Salkantay and Humantay peaks (both above 6000 m) and a early dinner. Australians, lots of of French and some Swiss create a nice assembly. We all go early to bed, the beds are incredibly comfortable and I sleep very well.
    The day after we have breakfast at 5:30 and start the ascent of the Salkantay Pass ( 4630 m). The day start beautiful but turns foggy, rainy and cold). I cross the pass and walk on the other side to the 10th kilometre. I then need to climb back in the rain, thunderstorms and fog. I hear the glacier falling in the background, which makes a special atmosphere. I arrive at the hostel, the sun shines again and I can dry my clothes. Second evening with notably more French people.
    The third day is going back to Challakancha and hitch an empty bus going back after bringing more tourists to the departure.
    I would have loved to continue but it was a good decision to plan it like this,as I was still recovering from illness.
    En savoir plus

  • Caminata de las siete lagunas

    31 octobre 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Beautiful one day hike recommended by Andrea (thank you!).
    We depart early (4:15) from Cusco by bus to reach the tiny village of Pacchanta. The village has hot springs and we could eat a good breakfast there.
    Then we start with a beautiful weather and view of the Ausangate mountain (6384 m) which represents the masculine spirit in Andean believes. Later we will see its pendent, the Callangate (6110 m) representing the feminine.
    The hike of the 7 lagunas is called like this because a circuit of approximately 14 km takes you through 7 lagunas, each of them having a different color. The first has a beautiful red, sandy beach, the second many wild lamas and alpacas. The third looks like a turquoise Canadian lake and the last is surplombed by the Ausangate Summit.
    The weather changes and we get a small thunderstorm which allows me to test my new poncho (I look like Shrek but kept dry).
    Back to the village for a good lunch and we start the gruelling bus journey back to Cusco. It’s Halloween, everybody and all the kids are outside and costumed, it is a big party!
    I met nice French people along the way and in the Bus.
    En savoir plus

  • Inca Trail Day 1

    2–3 nov. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The famous Inca Trail

    The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu was built primarily in the 15th century, during the reign of Emperor Pachacuti, who is credited with constructing most of the Inca road network, including the trails leading to Machu Picchu; considered a pilgrimage route to the sacred site. For this reason, many Inca ruins scatter the way, as shelter and agricultural and administrative centers were needed along. It was also used by running messengers that relayed along to transmit oral messages to the Macchu Picchu, as the Inca are not believed to have had a written system.

    Machu Picchu was constructed as an estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti (1438–1472). The Inca built the estate around 1450 but abandoned it a century later, at the time of the Spanish conquest.

    The Inca Trail is now strictly controlled and only 500 persons, including porters and guides are allowed on it at the same time. It is not permitted to hike it on your own. I chose the Alpaca Company and was very impressed by the professionalism.
    I was fully prepared for a very touristy expedition, so made sure to pack a book and some patience in my day pack, but I genuinely enjoyed the experience.

    Day 1: Cusco - Piskacucho Km 82 - Llactapata- Ayapata
    Departure by bus from Cusco around 4:30 and stop on the way (close to Ollantaytambo) for a gourmet breakfast (scrambled eggs, delicious fresh fruits,…).
    The Inca Trail start with a passport control at Km 82 (as we are now 82 km from Cusco). Then we hiked mostly flat in the valley, stopping on the way to admire the first Inca ruin. The day is very hot, we must pass a second control (passport control, but also each porter is weighed, to ensure they are not carrying more than 25 (!) kg. They are the true heroes of the Inca Trail, running with these heavy packs, setting tents and helping cooking.
    At the camp, our guide Abel (helped from Valentin) presented us our porter and cook team, explaining that they work in groups, coming from the same village. For each tourist, there are 2 porters.
    We get our very comfortable tents ( I am sharing with Kaytlin, from Canada) and a mind blowing buffet for dinner.
    It is an early night, as tomorrow will be departure at 5:45 for our longest hike day.
    En savoir plus

  • Inca Trail Day 2

    3–4 nov. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 2: Dead Woman´s Pass - Runcuraccay Pass - Chaquiccocha
    Considered the hardest walking day because of the 16 km distance and the elevation of the Death Woman’s Pass.
    The hike starts early in a beautiful “mountain jungle” where it is possible to see hummingbirds.
    As the elevation increases, the landscape gets more rocky and the jungle receeds.
    After lunch we start our ascent of the second pass of the day where we can see two lakes. On the descent we can visit the Inca site of Sayacmarca and then reach the camp of Chaquiccocha (3600 m).
    The amazing cook Armando gets us “happy hours” with popcorn’s, pisco sour and an adorable carved zucchini where you could roast marshmallows (see pictures for a better explanation).
    En savoir plus

  • Inca Trail Day 3

    4–5 nov. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Inca Trail Day 3: Chaquiccocha - Wiñaywayna
    We start our day under a slight rain that luckily does not last but unfortunately blocks the view to the Salkantay summit. We walk on the original Inca Trail and I stay in the back with Valentin to ask questions about the construction of the trail.
    This is an easy day, only 10 km so we are at camp for lunch.
    In the afternoon we visit my favourite Inca site (with Macchu Picchu): . I explore it for a very long time with Vivek and Aimee and we ask ourselves many questions we don’t have answers for, but we enjoy imagining answers to them.
    We go back for our last happy hour, Armando does his magic and presents us his layered cake. After dinner, we thank our porters and go to bed. Tomorrow the wake up call is at 02:50 because the porters need to catch the train at 04:30. This means they will be running in the dark with their loads on their backs.
    En savoir plus

  • Inca Trail Day 4

    5 novembre 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Inca Trail Day 4: Wiñaywayna- Macchu Picchu
    The day starts at 02:50 and after a quick coffee we head to the entrance gate where we need to wait until 05:30 when the gates open. It is a special mood, everyone here is feeling excited about seeing the Machu Picchu.
    Once the parc gate opens, each group starts separately and I start hiking, enjoying the beautiful morning, until I realize…that our group split and Abel the guide is litterally running up the mountain to be first at the Sun Gate and before the clouds.
    I accelerate and with the last « Gringo killer », a set of steep stairs leading to the Sun Gate I arrive just in time for a magical view of the Machu Picchu.
    The atmosphere is indescriptible but soon a thick fog envelopes the Macchu Picchu. I got so lucky!
    After breakfast with a view we start our descent to the Machu Picchu, stoppingi awe every 30 meters or so.
    We stop above the Macchu Picchu for a photo shooting and the other groups start arriving (only the ones doing the Inca Trail). The fog has cleared and the weather is beautiful, which, according to our guides does not happen often (but according to every tourist I meet was the case?!).
    We visit the Macchu Picchu with Abel and Valentin and then take the bus to Aguas Calientes for lunch. After a quick visit of the town with Jack we head to the train to Ollantaytambo, where a Mexican tells us all about Mexicain cuisine. From Ollantaytambo we board our bus to Cusco, about 2:30 hours.
    After a quick shower at the hostel I go and take my night bus to Puno.
    En savoir plus

  • Puno

    6–7 nov. 2024, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The overnight bus arrives around 5:00 and I spontaneously decide to go on a day trip on the Titicaca lake with Sarana, who I just met this morning.
    The Titicaca Lake is the highest navigable lake in the world (3812 m), has a depth from 70 cm to 230 m and his believed to be the birthplace of the Inca civilisation (Isla de Sol, on the Bolivian side). It is divided between Peru (65%) and Bolivia (35%).
    We start by boat at 07:30, direction the artificial island of Uros. These are islands constructed on peat blocks and covered in dried reeds. The ground feels very soft, alle the houses are built from reed and 6 families live on this particular island. Even their boats are made of reeds covering PET bottles. The communities historically chose to live on these artificial islands because of conflicts with other people on the shore. Now they mostly live from tourism revenues, as they receive many visitors, on day trips or overnight.
    Also boats trips are an income, so I join the group to float in this straw boat. We are shown how they cut the reeds, how they use it for everything, from building houses to use as cataplasms in case of fever.
    After the visit we continue to the island of Amantani (not artificial) where 10 communities live for a stroll.
    Our last stop will be Llachon for a typical trout lunch and we go back by boat, witnessing an incredible sunset.
    I met a Peruvian family who fed me approximately every 2 hours on the deck; and I pass time playing with their kids Michael and unfortunately-I-don’t-remember-his-name.
    I spent the evening at the hostel with an Norwegian couple and an American cooking the most impressive feast I witnessed, even more so in a hostel kitchen: steaks, potato gratin, caramelised mushrooms and broccoli, all with 2 bottles of red vine (they are „celebrating“ the fact that they need to split after 6 weeks travelling together, as the American goes to Columbia and the Norwegians continue to Bolivia).
    Joining the party is also Mal, a man in his 50s from the UK cycling across South America.
    En savoir plus

  • Copacabana

    7–8 nov. 2024, Bolivie ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Copacabana is a small and charming town on the Bolivian side of the Lake Titicaca.
    To cross the Bolivian border one needs to get off the bus on the Peruvian side, get the Peruvian stamp upon leaving the country, walk a few minutes, get the entry stamp into Bolivia and meet the bus again in Bolivia. All went smoothly.
    My first impression is that Bolivia is somewhat more « hippie, colourful and witchy » than Peru.
    We get lunch on the water side and I meet Hannah, from London. Afterwards we head by boat to the Isla del Sol, considered as the native place of the Incas. The island has an altitude of 4000 m and we visit the Sun Temple. As there is a conflict between the South and North, not all the island is open to tourists but we can walk from the South harbour to the North.
    I come back just in time to watch the sunset from Cerro Calvario.
    The second day is easy, I hike to Cerro San Sebastián, where I don’t meet a soul until the summit, where a group dressed in traditional costumes perform a religious ceremony.
    En savoir plus

  • La Paz

    8–9 nov. 2024, Bolivie ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A day in La Paz!
    I was wondering if I would like the highest capital of the world because I heard mixed opinions but I loved it!
    The day started bumping randomly into Kumba, a friend I met on the Caminata de las siete lagunas, when sneaking as silently as possible of the dorm room. She was getting of an overnight bus coming back from the Uyuni Salt flats and we went for breakfast at Café del Mundo, which was perfectly cosy and tasty.
    After breakfast we separated and I took a collectivo to Valle de la Luna (fun fact: apparently if you inadvertently hand just one half of a 10 bolivianos note, the nice lady will just ask you for the other half and accept the neatly torn note as paiement method, did I tell you I love Bolivia?! 😅). While admiring the lunar landscape I met Mohan, who offered me a ride back to the city. One circumstance leading to another, I ended up sitting with him in the most fancy and well known restaurant of la Paz (Cocina Populare Boliviana) for lunch. Think gastro but with popular portion, delicious but impossible to finish (I was actually done after the first plate).
    After lunch I went to the market and took the famous cable cars to enjoy a beautiful sight of the city.
    Night bus to Uyuni.
    En savoir plus

  • Salar de Uyuni

    10–13 nov. 2024, Bolivie ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A magical experience.
    From the car squad who made the trip as fun, funny, special and unforgettable as possible, Kim, Joe, Hannah, Vladi and the best driver we could wish for, Eddy. Thank you for the karaoke moments (Eddy loving traditional Irish music 😅), the sarcasm, the vicuñas at 10 o’clock and the hyping-everybody-vibe.
    To the stunning landscapes of Salar Uyuni, the Incawasi Island (Patcha mama loves alcohol), the incredible rock formations;
    To the sunrises and night skies watched with friends;
    To the many acrobatic postures on any kind of rock we could find;
    To the smoke gysers early morning bubbling 365 degrees mud and the warm thermal waters at sunrise watching FREAKING PINK FLAMINGOS.
    For the coloured lagunas, surrounded by perfectly cone shaped volcanoes;
    To Marcia, our guide, circling us by car to get the best shop.
    Too much beauty to comprehend and put into words, the 3 days were too intense to summarise properly, you might want to go and see for yourself 🫶🦩
    En savoir plus

  • Valle de la Luna

    15 novembre 2024, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We were able to rent the bikes the evening before and, with a detour to the Perrock (did you know that in Chile you apparently can not order alcohol without food? The Perrock solves this inconvenience by automatically serving and re serving you popcorn with your beer), could bike home to get an early start the day after.
    The day started bright and early, we thought we met our future dog (which we named San Pedro, because he bravely followed us out of the city and was even helpful keeping the other scary looking dogs at bay), but we lost him after a while.
    We were too early to the park gates and the very strict guard and rules “nicely” reminded us of home after more than a month in South America.
    The valley is grandiose, with complex rock formations and easily visited by bike and hike. We did 4 stops where we had to let the bikes to hike up and the views never disappointed.
    En savoir plus

  • Cerro Toco

    16 novembre 2024, Chili ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Altitude record for Andreas (5604m)!
    San Pedro de Atacama is strange in this way, that you can reach this height during a 3 hours (ca. 600 meter of elevation hike), although the town is “only” 2460 meter over sea. Maybe a bit soon for Andreas, who did not have a month to acclimatise beforehand 🙈En savoir plus

  • El Tatio

    17 novembre 2024, Chili ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Geysers
    Today was an early start: we left at 5.30 a.m in the dark, with the aim to see the Tatio geysers. On the way there we were fascinated by the morning mood, the landscape slowly illuminated by the warming sun. Shortly before Machuca we saw numerous flamingoes in the water in front of us, so close one could almost touch them. We first enjoyed the view alone, the quiet and breathtaking morning atmosphere before other cars arrived. After that we drove in a good mood to the Tatio geyseres. Once there, we were greeted by smoking and bubbling water fountains. We strolled a little around the impressive water holes before we made our way back...En savoir plus

  • Volcano Lascar

    18 novembre 2024, Chili ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Lascar was a bit an adventure.
    First of, there is not much information on the internet and then contradictory.
    We started the day before the planned ascension with the bright idea to go camping next to the wonderful looking Laguna Leija. A local guide who we took hitch hiking told us this was the very best idea, “just let them know you are camping as they are strict and camp to the designated areas”. A quick glance at the official website for chilean national parks confirmed it.
    We departed from San Pedro early afternoon with the plan to get to the gates well before 18:00, the closing time. Google maps indicated 2 possible roads, we decided to take the quickest one, to Talabra. Upon arriving a stern matriarch informed us that we were too late (16:30), and anyway camping necessitated a formal permit. We had to come back at 06:00.
    Thinking we were being clever, we decided to try our luck with the other Google Maps possible road: 45 minutes later stood we in front of a very impracticable road and, upon asking a local, were told that there was no way we could go up there this way and the only entrance was the one we just came from.
    Back we went and wanted to ask stern looking matriarch if we could camp somewhere close to the entrance (she had mentioned a spot in out earlier conversation) but we found the office closes and… gate open. With the logic “if we hadn’t been here before we would not know and would drive further we tried our luck again. And ended up being stoped some 500 m further by a barrage formed by stern matriarch and her also stern colleague, not happy at all with our little stint.
    After some pleading the lead us to the middle of the village, next to the church where we could set up our tent. Not quite the idyllic laguna we had in mind but we slept well and were back to the park gates the next morning at 06:50.
    We had about 45 minutes to drive to the Laguna Leija on perfect roads and then 45 horrible minutes on a not so perfect road, but made it to the start of the ascent (well, the tourist agencies drove about 500 meters more but no chance our car would have made it). The start was at around 4800 m and after about 2:45 of walking we arrived at the impressive cratere. The last 500 meters to the actual top are not accessible anymore, since the last eruption in 2022. The summit (5400 m) felt as a little victory after the difficulties to get there.
    During the descent we are asked to accompany 2 brasilian persons that need to go down while the group is continuing (tour operator go with inexperienced tourists on day tours on the volcano, starting from San Pedro de Atacama at 2100 m and leading them in half of a day to 5400 m).
    Once at the car we decide to explore the park a little more and the views are out of this world (one of Billie’s favorite). The laguna is blue and yellow from the minerals, with pink flamingos and the volcanos in the background. Each further valley had its own color, from pink, to yellow and green, to gold. One pass was full of lamas, it was a dream.
    We spent the night at a very nice and quiet Overlander spot in the desert and a beautiful sunset and night sky complete this perfect day.
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  • Valle del Arcoiris

    20 novembre 2024, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The Rainbow valley is located northwest of San Pedro de Atacama. An old local woman, with a wrinkled face, greeted us in the cottage at the entrance of the valley. She put us with great care in her booklet to record the daily guests. There we hiked and visited the colorful valley, which visibly inspired us. Shortly before our self-proclaimed returning point, we caught a glimpse of three surprised and cheerfully eating Vicunias. On the way back to San Pedro we initially wanted to go to the Laguna Escondida de Baltinacche, but noticed that the lagoons are actually closed for swimming. We therefore decided not to take the long, bumpy journey and drove back to San Pedro to relax and make plans for the next few days.En savoir plus

  • Parque Nacional Pan de Azúgar

    21–22 nov. 2024, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A long car ride is ahead of us, as we plan to reach Santiago de Chile with several stops in different national parks. Today’s destination is the Pan de Azugar National Park. The ride starts at 5 a.m. In Antofagasta we make a stop to strengthen ourselves with a coffee and light breakfast. After we continued the journey, we took a man with a broken arm with us and it turned out that this miner in his early forties was a big fan of Roger Federer and tennis in general. The slight problem was that he was also determine to play professionally himself and planned to go on international tournaments in a near future.
    Finally we arrived at the national park by the sea after a long drive. To pay the entrance fee, we went to the official office. There we were greeted by a retired and enthusiastic Alfonso (Billie means Alfonso was the name of his colleague). After we couldn't pay the entrance exactly enough (he had no change), we decided to return later, which was no problem (it was the next day). After we had eaten and the tent was set up on the beach with an ocean view, we decided to take a little hike on the coast. Arriving at a lonely beach, we observed eating and playing birds, which tried to escape from waves approaching water at the last moment. They did only flight if really needed but had a impressive running speed, so fast you could not see their legs moving.
    Since we wanted fresh fish, we looked for a restaurant for dinner. A real stroke of luck, as it turned out. A nice woman put together a menu for us, where we could decide for ourselves what, how and in what form we would like to have it. A sensational meal with everything you could wish for!

    The second day of our journey to Santiago de Chile started after a very restorative night at sea level. After a coffee on the beach we set off for a short Mirador hike, where we rapidly noticed that we were lucky that it was November, and therefore spring and not later in the year. Even the cactus were completely dried and black, but in November the temperature is still very nice. We met a couple of germans traveling in a monster camping car (are we them 30 years ago and are they us in 30 years?).
    We then set off to our next destination Nevado Tres Cruces and after many kilometers and a lot of shuttling we arrive to the most beautiful and quiet camping spot one could imagine. We are alone with about 30 flamingoes and incredible views. The sunset and afterwards the night sky belong to the most beautiful landscapes we ever saw.
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  • Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces

    23–25 nov. 2024, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We instantly decide to stay 2 nights and the second day ascent spontaneously the peak “Las siete Hermanas” (4900 m) the ascent of which conveniently starts from the campsite. The hike offers a pretty view of the Laguna Santa Rosa but the sandy path, wind and altitude slow somewhat our ascent. The way back feels like a video game where we just need to conteract the wind to stay on the path 💨💨. We arrive back to find 3 groups of new neighbors, the range goes from a polish expedition team to chilean city tourists.

    The day started with a flat tire, so we could practice our skills changing the wheel. Only little bummer: the spare wheel was consequently smaller than the others, limiting our speed to 80 kmh. Well, on not a problem on the off roads, where we mostly can only drive up to 50 kmh (well, 30 kmh). We depart full of positivity towards the Santiago pass and start by missing a turn (Billie was recording Whats app podcasts 🙈and not paying attention to Google maps). We realize a couple hundreds meters away but a nice ranger had already spotted us and asked where we thought we were heading. The incredulity on his face when we said Mendoza was hilarious but he obviously thought we were stupid unprepared tourists (“what, you don’t have a 40 liter reservoir of gaz with you? you only have one spare wheel? do you have enough water?” although we had plenty of water, he kindly gave us 2 liters more with the directions). After a beautiful ride of about 3 hours we arrive to the Argentinian border. They take our passports and just tell us that the pass is not open for chilean cars today, we simply need to go back from where we are from. The pass will only be open on Tuesday (today is Sunday). We need to sign a document that states that we don’t have the necessary documents (although the official did not want to see our documents). We later learn that there is a whatsApp group with daily updated information about the pass situation between Chile and Argentina. Lesson learned the “hard” way, we drive all the way back and spend the night in Vallenar (so good food and veeery comfy beds after about 11 hours drive, remember, we could (or should) not exceed the mighty speed of 80 kmh). We will try to cross the border with the Paso de Agua Negra instead.
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  • Von Vallenar nach Iglesia

    25–26 nov. 2024, Argentine ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After a good night sleep and surprisingly well stocked breakfast buffet we tried a second time to drive to Argentina.
    We changed the tire back the night before so we are cautiously optimistic that we can drive faster today.
    Although not planned the drive across the Paso de Agua Negra is definitely worth it (we learn later that it has only been open for about 3 days and we can estimate the amount of snow it gets during winter by driving across the remaining snow).
    We arrive after 3 control posts and having to give up all our fruits and vegetables to the city of Inglesia.
    We find a very nice camping and meet a German bikepacker who has been cycling from Peru and spend the night listening to his adventures.
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