Don't pay the ferryman...

...even when he gets you to the other side!

We're travelling to Gozo today, second largest of the 21 islands that make up Malta. It is much more rural in nature, so we expect less crowded roads and smaller towns.

The ferry ride across is about 20 minutes, but you only pay on the return journey from Gozo to Malta . Getting here is free!

We are awaiting the arrival of Storm Harry and authorities expect gale force winds to hit the islands overnight and tomorrow. As it was unclear when the wind would start, our hotel on Gozo messaged us this morning and recommended we catch the ferry across early in case they were suspended later in the day, so we headed to the ferry terminal just after 9am.

We just missed one leaving (they weren't running to a schedule today because of the weather), so had to wait about half an hour for the next. The crossing was lumpy, but not particularly rough.

The wind had already picked up by mid-morning, so instead of touring the coastal areas as planned, we went inland to the biggest town, Victoria... confusingly also known among the native Maltese as Rabat (which is the name of the old town centre - Victoria is the name given by the British, so many Maltese still prefer to use the local name).

The town is dominated by the citadel, with uninterrupted views in all directions. Most of the shops in the citadel were closed today, and very few tourists around, so we almost had the place to ourselves.

We arrived at our hotel in Xewkija late afternoon, which is situated in the town square. The main building in the square is The Church of Saint John the Baptist (commonly known as the Rotunda of Xewkija), a massive church that dominates the region skyline.

Dinner was at a bistro across the square... the only one that was open.Read more