• Expo 2020... missed it by that much!

    30. juni, De forente arabiske emirater ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Our final day in Dubai and we headed to the site of the 2020 World Expo. It gets mixed reviews, with the most positive claiming it's a futuristic extravaganza. We saw the polar opposite, more like the back lot of a movie studio, with most exhibits closed and only staff in attendance.

    In fact, we didn't find anything open apart from a hotel and eateries... but there were many staff keen to give us a guided tour of the site by golf buggy, for a hefty fee.

    We caught the metro back to near the palm, then the monorail to our hotel for a late lunch.

    In preparation for our flight tonight we had an afternoon nap, a walk along the beachfront promenade for dinner, and a 10.30pm pickup booked for our 2am flight home.
    Les mer

  • Tour of Palm Jumeirah

    29. juni, De forente arabiske emirater ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    As we're staying at a hotel on the trunk of the palm, today we toured around the palm.

    Palm Jumeirah is the largest man made island in the world, constructed from 2001-2007 from 7 million tons of rock and sand mined from the Hajar Mountains, 400km away. It has a trunk and 17 fronds, creating 73km of beachfront, and it's own monorail.

    We caught a taxi to the far end of the outer breakwater (predominantly to get a cache 😁), then stopped in at Atlantis The Palm resort and waterpark on the way back (of course it's the world's largest waterpark, with 105 slides and rides). We didn't partake this time.

    We caught the monorail half way back, to Nakheel Mall for lunch, then late afternoon continued our monorail journey back to our hotel on the trunk.

    At dusk we went for a walk along the promenade under the monorail tracks, then I had a refreshing evening dip in the pool.
    Les mer

  • Dubai - world's largest everything

    28. juni, De forente arabiske emirater ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Very late start today - we made it to breakfast 20 minutes before it closed at 11 am.

    The weather isn't conducive to walking anywhere, with 41 degrees, feels like 47, so we caught a taxi to Dubai Mall (largest mall in the world).

    First stop outside was photos of the Burj Khalifa (tallest building plus various other records), then inside to wander in air conditioned comfort for a few hours.

    We visited the aquarium (largest aquarium in a mall... now they're grasping at straws 🤣), which also has the largest high definition video wall above it.

    The taxi ride back to our hotel took us past The Dubai Frame (largest building in the shape of a picture frame)... which epitomises Dubai in many ways - if you build something weird enough it will get a claim to fame and people will pay to see it!

    As the sun was setting it was the perfect time for a swim in the hotel's rooftop pool... complete with a great view of the Dubai Eye (largest observation wheel). Seems an apt way to finish the day.
    Les mer

  • Welcome to Dubai

    28. juni, De forente arabiske emirater ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    We had to disembark the ship by 9am, for a 2.15pm flight to Dubai, so today was a lot of waiting around.

    The flight to Dubai was late taking off, but we still arrived on time at 12.50am... and the temperature was still 37 degrees!

    Given the hour, the roads were remarkably busy, and we arrived at our hotel just after 2am.
    Les mer

  • Lisbon by foot and rail

    26. juni, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We had an afternoon arrival into Lisbon, sailing into the mouth of the Tagus River and past Belem Tower, docking at 3pm.

    No bus for us today, our tour of the city was by foot and rail. We only had a group of 12, and began with a walk to Praça Comercio, the main square on the waterfront. From there we caught the 25 tram to Estela Church, had a refreshment break in Estela Gardens then walked on to the Principe area.

    We had free time to explore the local shops, and festivities in the park before walking to Miradouro Observation Point and catching the funicular down the hill toward the main square and crowded restaurant strip, with hundreds of locals enjoying dinner al fresco.

    Finally, we caught the metro back to the cruise dock, arriving at 8pm, having walked 11.3km for the day! We had just enough energy to grab a couple of caches outside the cruise terminal before boarding for late dinner and an Abba themed farewell party in the lounge bar.

    We are in dock overnight before disembarking at 9am tomorrow.
    Les mer

  • Final sea day

    25. juni, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Our last sea day of the cruise, spent in the usual way - in the morning a preso from the engineering team about the engine room, then bracelet making, trivia and more eating!

    We had an early crew show on stage tonight, followed by dinner with my trivia team, and finished the night with a performance by a soprano/swing performer.Les mer

  • Lovely La Palma

    24. juni, Spania ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    We arrived in Santa Cruz, capital of the island of La Palma, Canary Islands, to clear skies and bright sunshine.

    La Palma is one of the smaller of the 7 Canary Islands and receives considerably less tourists than it's more famous neighbours - 120,000 per year, compared to Tenerife (6 million), Grand Canaria (4 million), and Lanzarote (3 million). Most come here for the natural beauty and tranquillity.

    Our day tour began at the Royal Island Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Snows, a church in the hills above Santa Cruz. The church houses a 14th-century sculpture of Our Lady of the Snows, believed to have been brought by merchants before the arrival of the Spaniards. Every five years she is carried down to Santa Cruz in a grand procession, which begins next week, so the city is deep in preparation for the month long festival to celebrate it.

    We drove to the west of the island via a cigar factory, and a local farm for refreshments, to the Caldera de Taburiente National Park, a popular walking and hiking area. We took a short walk, but the planned 1 hour walk was not possible as they are currently upgrading the track. The park is also home to the largest telescope in the world.

    We continued west to view the site of the most recent volcanic eruption in the Canaries, where the Cumbre Veija Volcanic Ridge erupted for 85 days in 2021, leaving a 6.2 km long and 3km wide lava trail which reached the sea and displaced 7,000 residents. The main road has been repaired, but the damage is still very visible, as is the newest mountain on the island which was created in the process.

    Returning to the port at 2pm, we had 1.5 hours to explore the city on foot, so we visited the main shopping area. It was a religious holiday today, so many of the shops were closed and the streets almost deserted, but we managed to sample the local coffee specialty, the barraquito - a multi-layered drink containing condensed milk, Liqueur 43, coffee with milk, milk foam, cinnamon, and lemon.
    Les mer

  • Water, water everywhere

    23. juni, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Another day surrounded by water, so today's fun facts are about water.

    The ship has its own desalination plant which produces 600,000 litres of fresh water a day, used for drinking, cooking, flushing and washing (people and clothes - there are 5 laundries on board)

    Today's activities were bracelet making, a cooking demonstration and the usual trivia, with a comedian as evening entertainment.

    After 4 consecutive sea days, we're certainly ready for a shore day tomorrow in the Canary Islands.
    Les mer

  • All the fun of the fair

    22. juni, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    The Country Fair was on today, where all the ships departments host a game booth of a classic fairground game, with the chance to win some ship's merch.

    The seas were the roughest so far this trip, so the pool was emptied to improve stability and the risk of spillage on the decks. Games and activities, however, continued as planned, including a lecture about the colonisation of Africa, daily trivia, and afternoon tea with a strudel theme.

    Evening entertainment was an acoustic duo in the cocktail bar, before changing the clocks for a time zone change... the 6th change of the cruise!
    Les mer

  • Cape Verde... almost

    21. juni, Kapp Verde ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    We were on time for our 7am arrival at the island of Sāo Vincente, the second most westerly of the Cape Verde islands.

    Cape Verde is named after the westernmost cape of Africa, located in Senegal, the nearest point on the continent. It consists of nine inhabited islands and one uninhabited island.

    Unfortunately, this morning we experienced 40 knot winds as we were attempting to dock, so after one aborted attempt the captain gave up and cancelled our visit, and we headed towards our next port, the Canary Islands.

    So after a leisurely breakfast on the deck, we had a day of bracelet making, lunch, playing cards and the usual trivia.

    We were hoping the extra day could be spent at dock in the Canary Islands, but it's not possible for "operational reasons", so we now have 3 days at sea, at a reduced pace, and will be reaching the Canary Islands in line with our original schedule.
    Les mer

  • A hatch of Boobies*

    20. juni, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Another travelling day, on the way to Cape Verde, and for the first time this trip we had a flock of birds following the boat for a few hours. We identified them as Brown Boobies as they soared along next to us, then flipped over and dived into the ocean to catch a fish, occasionally emerging triumphant. The fish were almost presenting themselves by jumping out of the water, so this entertainment kept us amused for quite a while this afternoon.

    This morning's presentation was by the ship's bridge officers about what happens on the bridge, and other useful bits of information such as how our waters are pumped into various tanks and used as ballast (fresh water, grey water and blackwater), and how recycling is done on board (all waste is sorted, and the ship has a glass crusher, a baler for cardboard and aluminium, and food waste is pulverised for later disposal)

    *the collective noun for a group of boobies is a hatch, a congress or a trap
    Les mer

  • Dakar, as west as West Africa gets

    19. juni, Senegal ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Most of the day was at sea, with our scheduled 11am arrival into Dakar pushed back to 3.30pm. This also meant that 3 of the 5 tours around Dakar were cancelled, including our trip to Goree Island.

    This was a real shame - it was the excursion we were most looking forward to, as Goree was the largest slave-trading centre on the African coast.

    The only tours remaining were a city highlights tour, or a cooking class... and the cooking class was booked out. The city highlights tours spend more time on the bus than visiting sites, so us and another couple opted to catch a taxi for our own city tour.

    There were a number of taxis on the dock, so we negotiated a price for 2 hours to see the major sites, and it was brilliant. We visited all the sites the bus tour was doing plus more, and were finished in half the time 😁

    Progress was swift because the roads around the city were the best we've seen, and the city is one of the cleanest we've visited.

    Dakar is situated on the Cape Verde Peninsula, the westernmost point of Africa, so our tour began on the coast at the African Renaissance Monument, Africa's tallest statue. At 52 metres, it is taller than both Christ the Redeemer in Rio and the Statue of Liberty. It depicts a man, woman and child emerging from a volcano, symbolising Africa's emergence from centuries of oppression, and was the subject of much controversy because of its cost and design.

    Our others stops were the President's Palace and Parliament House, Mosque of the Divinity, Cathedral of our Lady of Victories, and Independence Square, before returning to the ship and some market shopping on the dock.

    We still had time for a swim and dinner before the other buses arrived back, then a leisurely cocktail in the lounge bar before the nightly show in the main theatre.
    Les mer

  • Running late for Senegal 🏃🏼‍➡️🏃🏼‍➡️

    18. juni, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Hot but relaxing day on board with another full day at sea. The announcement came through mid morning that we had strong currents overnight and were now 3.5 hours behind schedule for our arrival in Dakar, Senegal tomorrow.

    Bocce was the activity of the morning, followed by burgers around the pool for lunch. The afternoon was book reading and trivia, then we were entertained by violinist Susanna in the theatre tonight, playing everything from classical to Metallica.
    Les mer

  • Transiting the Pepper Coast

    17. juni, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We have a full day at sea, with most of it along the coast of Liberia, historically known as The Pepper Coast.

    Liberia is a unique case in Africa, as it was founded by the American Colonization Society with the intention of resettling freed American slaves and their descendants, and is Africa's oldest republic (1847). It is one of only two counties in Africa never subjected to colonial rule (Ethiopia is the other).

    The day for us was a late breakfast, craft session in the morning and trivia in the afternoon. Most of the day was overcast with occasional showers, but warm enough to sit around the pool deck reading. Dinner was in the specialty steak restaurant on board, followed by a spectacular performance by Tim Abel, Piano Showman, in the main theatre.
    Les mer

  • Abidjan

    16. juni, Elfenbenskysten ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We sailed into the Abidjan lagoon through a canal constructed in 1960 to connect the city to the Atlantic Ocean. Abidjan is the economic capital and largest city in Ivory Coast (Côte d'Ivoire), a city of 4 million people, supposedly famed for its mix of colonial buildings and new construction... but it's also the dirtiest and least developed city we have visited, with rubbish everywhere and dirt roads with shanty housing butting onto the main highway.

    We toured the city as well as the former capital of Bingerville, traveling from the port in a convoy of buses, surrounded by about a dozen policemen on motorcycles whose job it was to stop traffic at every intersection and roundabout, lights and sirens blaring all day (we also had 2 ambulances follow the convoy all day).

    First stop was St. Paul's Cathedral, with a capacity of 3,500 seated and another 1,500 standing (still nowhere near the largest church in Africa... not even the largest church in Côte d'Ivoire - the cathedral in the capital, Yamoussoukro, holds 18,000)

    Next door, still under construction, is Tour F (Tower F), which will be the tallest building in Africa when it's completed in 2026.

    We visited an art museum, an orphanage, the Botanic Gardens, and finished the day at a large art and craft market.

    Another late lunch after 3pm, then a light tea in the Italian restaurant before a Michael Bublé tribute act in the main theatre.
    Les mer

  • Today's Sunday, this must be Ghana

    15. juni, Ghana ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Our first back-to-back shore days brings us to the twin city of Takoradi-Secondi in Ghana.

    Takoradi is the major export port for agricultural and oil exports for Ghana and its land locked neighbours. Unfortunately, it is also a good example of continued foreign exploitation of resources - our guide noted that less than 10% of the natural resources stay in the country. Across the city, very little work has been done on the roads, and unfinished and abandoned structures are everywhere.

    Being Sunday, most of the shops were closed and, as the main market is undergoing a rebuild, there was very little to see in the city. Luckily a number of sellers had set up stalls on the dock, so we could get our fix of souvenir and fabric shopping.

    Our afternoon tour took us to the fishing port and a local hotel for a dance demonstration.
    Les mer

  • Let's Begin in Benin

    14. juni, Benin ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    At 8am we docked in Cotonou, the main port, administrative capital, and largest city in Benin (the actual capital, Porto Novo, is 40km east)

    Our tour today took us to Ganvie, a village built on Lake Nokoué, an hour north of Cotonou.

    The entire village is built on stilts over the lake. With a population of 40,000 people, it is the largest lake village in the world, and sometimes called The Venice of Africa.
    The Tofinu people settled here in the sixteenth century and built their lake village to escape slavers who came from the Fon tribe and were not allowed to enter water for religious reasons. This made the lagoon a safe territory for other tribes. All of Ganvie's houses, shops and restaurants are built on wooden stilts, and it also has a floating market. The town has one complete patch of land, which is the site of the village school, and many houses have a small patch of land beside them, where villagers can rear a few domesticated animals . All the soil was imported by the people of Ganvie in their boats, including enough to create a proper cemetery.

    It rained most of the day, so our scheduled photo opportunity on the way was limited to peering through torrential rain at the Monument Amazone, a 30m bronze statue honoring the Dahomey Amazons, an all-female military group from the Kingdom of Dahomey.

    We arrived back at ship after 3 pm, so didn't have the opportunity to catch the shuttle to town to do any shopping, so, after changing out of our wet clothes, we headed to the pool grill for a late lunch... as did many others.

    We set sail at 4pm, heading west towards Ghana.
    Les mer

  • Sea day to Benin

    13. juni, Gulf of Guinea ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Another full day at sea as we head north to Benin, and a busy part of the cruise with 3 shore days in a row.

    Today's activities were a bracelet making craft morning, a cooking demonstration by the Executive Chef, the usual trivia session, and my first swim in the pool.

    Evening entertainment is a piano virtuoso.
    Les mer

  • São Tomé and Príncipe

    12. juni, Sao Tome og Principe ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We woke early to witness the actual crossing of the equator... and unsurprisingly, nothing happened! But we did witness the ship's tenders being unloaded and the first sights of São Tomé and Príncipe.

    São Tomé and Príncipe is a small nation composed of two islands - São Tomé and Príncipe - located in the Gulf of Guinea. Both islands are part of an extinct volcanic mountain range, and it is the second-smallest African country (after The Seychelles). São Tomé Island, where we are landing, is the larger of the two at 50 km long and 30 km wide.

    This is our only anchor port of the cruise, which means we anchor offshore and are transferred to shore by tender (approximately 60 at a time).

    We have an afternoon excursion booked, so we caught an early tender in and walked around town for a while. This time we were dropped in the centre of town (there are no shopping malls in ST), so we had easy access to the local shops and could really experience the beat of the city. The downside is that there were a lot of street children begging for money (although some resident adults admonished them, obviously aware of the reputation this gives the country). But all in all, a fabulous day.

    I was feeling peckish mid-morning and noticed the street coconut seller doing a roaring trade, so I changed some money with a money changer and made a purchase. For 10 dobra (70 cents) he lopped the top off and gave me a straw to drink the coconut water. Then you hand it back to the vendor, and he chops it in half and chops a piece of the shell off to use as a scoop to eat the flesh.

    Lunch consisted of a couple of bananas as we walked around town, before our afternoon city tour of the fort, a chocolate outlet, the cathedral, local produce market, and a nearby fishing village for a display of local dance.

    Early dinner tonight in the Italian restaurant, then a theatre show of Broadway musical songs by the onboard singers... before we lose an hour as we change time zone again.
    Les mer

  • Crossing the equator

    11. juni, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Full day sailing today as we head north from Angola to São Tomé & Príncipe, crossing the equator on the way.

    When crossing the equator by sea, nautical tradition dating back to the 1500's involves conducting a ceremony to pay homage to Neptune, God of the Sea, which transforms a sailor who has never crossed the equator, known as a Pollywog, into a Shellback.

    The ceremony is lighthearted and was originally done to break the monotony of long sea voyages and boost crew morale, so today involves paying respect to King Neptune, kissing a fish and getting a miniature ice bath.

    After an exhausting day eating, reading and enjoying ice cream on the pool deck, we also did a galley tour this afternoon with the head chef. It's quite an exercise in logistics to feed over 1,000 people every day (guests and crew). The fun fact I took from it is that they loaded 58,000 eggs at the start of our cruise, and will be topping up with another 15,000 in Ghana!
    Les mer

  • Luanda with an escort

    11. juni, Angola ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    We awoke to the sight of Luanda Bay as we arrived in Angola.

    Angola was a Portugese colony until gaining independence in 1975. Upon independence, Portugal left Angola without establishing a new government, so Angola suffered 27 years of civil war, which left much of the country in ruins. Beginning in 2002 with a new constitution, Angola is still slowly recovering, with new high rises towering above shanty towns, and a beautiful beach front promenade running around the bay. It is, however, not yet regarded as a tourist destination (10 ships stopped here this year, and we are the last ship of the season).

    The capital Luanda is the largest city in Angola (population 9.5 million), but is rated as the most expensive city in the world for expatriates and foreign workers to live, mainly due to the lack of quality housing.

    We were on the first tour out today, in a convoy of 6 buses, with a police escort. First stop was Senhora de Nazare Church, built in 1664. After we were escorted back to the buses by police stopping the traffic for us to walk across the road, we headed to the San Miguel Fort, with commanding views across the city.

    Built in 1576 by the Portugese to protect their colony, it was the major site for slave traffic that was exported to Brazil. For many years the fort was a self-contained town, protected by thick walls and cannons. Today it houses the Museum of the Armed Forces.

    We drove along Ihla de Luanda, a narrow spit of land housing many beach bars and restaurants, before heading to Agostinho Neto Mausoleum, a rocket shaped structure and resting place of the first president of Angola. Unfortunately we couldn't enter, as repairs are currently being undertaken.

    Again with our police escort, we returned to the ship in time for lunch, then headed straight back out on the shuttle bus to town. We are docked at an industrial pier, so were unable to walk direct from the ship, but had to catch a shuttle... which only took us to a shopping mall. The mall had very limited opportunities to buy any souvenir items, and even when I was approached outside the mall by a street vendor, they were moved along quickly by the mall security staff. The authorities are so keen to create a good impression, we were barely allowed to mingle with the locals, so unfortunately only saw a sanitised version of the city.
    Les mer

  • Sea day... off to a slow start

    9. juni, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    The day began at sunrise for me (which is unusual in itself!), with more rocking motion on the boat than usual. Turns out we were stationary and had been so for a while, so was getting an extra buffeting.

    At 7am the captain announced over the PA that we were stopped because of an issue with the propulsion system.

    Follow up announcements communicated that they have identified, then fixed the issue, and shortly after 9am we were back underway and full stream ahead towards Luanda, capital of Angola.

    Another full day at sea, so today's activities were craft morning, more book reading, coffee, cakes, shuffleboard and trivia (we won again).
    Les mer

  • Slow boat to Angola

    8. juni, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    A full day at sea as we make our way from Namibia towards Angola, and it's the first time we've actually felt the ship move around, with seas building to 4m tonight.

    The day was spent mostly around the pool deck, even though it's not quite warm enough to swim yet... but plenty of book was read.

    Today's lecture was on the life of Nicolai Tesla, and trivia was on again - after 3rd place yesterday, we had our first win today with 13/15.

    Before dinner they had a Block Party, where drinks and nibbles are served in the corridor outside your room and you're encouraged to meet your neighbours.

    Dinner tonight was in one of the specialty restaurants (French cuisine tonight), then some musical entertainment in the theatre, before a rolling night's sleep ahead.
    Les mer

  • Salt, sand and Swakopmund

    7. juni, Namibia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    We booked an independent tour today and met our driver at the gate to the port. First stop in Walvis Bay was the lagoon to view the flamingos, but being breeding season, there was only a handful present. We continued along the coast to the salt works and evaporation ponds.

    Heading out of town, we stopped at Dune 7 - at 383m, the highest sand dune in Namibia and 5th highest in the world. It is part of the coastal dune belt that runs 30km from Walvis Bay to Swakopmund. We climbed to the top the long way, but came down the quick way, straight down the face... with boots full of sand.

    Our journey took us to Swakopmund via an area known as the Moonscape, and to view the Welwitschia plant. It has been called one of the ugliest plants in the world and grows only in the deserts of Namibia and Angola. It is unusual because the entire plant has just two leaves. The leaves rest on the ground, and as they grow, their ends get split into multiple ribbons, which gives the impression that there are multiple leaves. Many of these plants are over 1,000 years old.
    Since rainfall in this area is erratic, the plant absorbs moisture from fog that regularly develops at night over the desert. This is achieved by the leaves by keeping their spores open at night and closing when the fog lifts. Because of the dependence on fog, the plant is seldom found more than 100 km from the coast.

    Last stop was Swakopmund ("mouth of the Swakop") , a popular beach resort town characterised by 19th century German colonial architecture. We had a quick city tour before returning to Walvis Bay via the coast road.

    The ship departed Walvis Bay at 5pm, heading north to Angola.
    Les mer

  • Walvis Bay

    6. juni, Namibia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    As we continued cruising towards Namibia, our morning activities consisted of a leisurely breakfast and another trivia session (with the same team of 6, we came third today, after yesterday's 2nd place).

    We arrived in Walvis Bay at midday and, after immigration processing on board, caught the shuttle bus from the port to the city. For reasons unbeknownst to all of us, the shuttle destination was a shopping mall on the outskirts of town. Walvis Bay is very spread out and not a walking town (or a tourist town), so after a quick peruse to confirm that the shopping mall was the same as every other suburban shopping mall, most people caught the next shuttle back to the ship.

    Walvis Bay is the primary port for Namibia, as well as a vital link for its landlocked neighbours to the east. It is also a former South African naval base, and remained under South African control after Namibia's independence in 1990, finally being integrated into Namibia in 1994. There are very few tourist attractions, but there are 6 caches spread around town, so we negotiated with a taxi driver for a 1 hour journey around the caches. Then we caught the shuttle back to the ship, arriving just in time for afternoon tea

    At 6.15pm we hosted a geocaching event near the dock, and had one local cacher attend, then returned to the ship for South African buffet dinner and an early night before our full day tour tomorrow.
    Les mer

  • North to Namibia

    5. juni, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had a full day at sea, so it was shipboard activities for us. Between us, we partook in a guest lecture about Albert Einstein's personal life, a Pilates class, a trivia session, and a bracelet making crafternoon. No prizes for guessing which of us did each activity!Les mer

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