• Queen of the South

    7 maja 2024, Szkocja ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our flight arrived in Manchester later than expected, then we had delays collecting our hire car (but we did get an upgrade!), so we didn't set off north until nearly midday.

    Traffic was heavy on the motorway, until we reached the rolling hills between the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales National Parks, then and onto Gretna Green, just over the border.

    After a visit to the famous Blacksmiths Shop, where runaway couples from England have wed since 1754, we headed towards Dumfries for the night.

    Dumfries is nicknamed Queen of the South, which is also the name of their soccer team in the Scottish leagues. It was the birthplace and childhood home of JM Barrie (author of Peter Pan), resting place of Robbie Burns, Scotland's National Poet, and, less famously, home of Alex Graham, creator of the Fred Basset cartoon.

    We walked through the historical centre, along the River Nith and had dinner at a local pub , before walking back to our hotel to watch the Eurovision song contest semi final.
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  • Changi transit

    6 maja 2024, Singapur ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    After an overnight stay at the airport hotel, our 9am flight to Singapore was comfortable and uneventful - the only way flights should be!

    We have an 11 hour transit in Singapore, so took advantage of their free bike hire from the airport. Their suggested trip to Changi Village was estimated to take 2 hours return, but we were barely a third of the way there after an hour... and we'd only stopped for 1 cache 🤣

    The humid weather wasn't conducive to fast riding, so we turned around at the water treatment plant and had a leisurely ride back to the airport.

    After a walk around the butterfly garden, a shower and a meal, we settled in to wait for our 2.25am departure.
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  • Little India, and away

    23 kwietnia 2023, Singapur ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    Another early morning, this time for a quick visit to Little India before we check out and fly home.

    Little India is the meeting point of the local Indian community. It is a snapshot of the sights, sounds and smells of the culture, and was particularly busy around the shrine this morning. Of course our main activity was caching, so we visited the popular (and some less popular) areas of the city within a city.

    We caught the train to the airport early afternoon in readiness for our overnight flight home.

    Cache count for the trip: 627
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  • Botanic Gardens and the Bay

    22 kwietnia 2023, Singapur ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We took the other method to avoid the heat today and was on the train to the Botanic Gardens just after 8am.

    Singapore Botanic Gardens is the only tropical garden to be recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's immaculately maintained and in addition to the 10,000 plant species, is also home to otters, monitor lizards, squirrels, monkeys and numerous bird species (we saw the last 4, but no sign of the otters today).

    We walked the length of the park from south to north, and caught the underground back to the bay area.

    After lunch in a cafe in the Esplanade complex with views of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel, we walked back to our hotel via the Merlion, Fullerton Hotel and stumbled across Rodin's sculpture, The Thinker outside the Fullerton Bay Hotel. Turns out Rodin encouraged wide distribution of his art, authorising 23 copies of his work in marble and in bronze during his life and sanctioning the Rodin Museum to create posthumous editions (55 have so far been created). So there are many versions of The Thinker exhibited throughout the world!

    Afternoon swim and dinner at Chinatown again, once the sun had gone down.
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  • Chinatown by night

    21 kwietnia 2023, Singapur ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We woke up to a massive thunderstorm and torrential rain, so had a bit of a late morning... so late it became afternoon until we left the hotel.

    We went in search of a cache on the rooftop around one of the landmark Chinatown skyline buildings, we also visited when last in Singapore (February 2020, just as Covid broke out).

    The building is known as the People's Park Complex, a 31-storey mostly residential development straight out of the 1970's. Happily we found the convoluted route to the rooftop and the cache considerably quicker than last time!

    Dinner was also a flashback, treating Oliver to dinner at a Michelin star restaurant again... admittedly the Cheapest Michelin-starred meal in the world, Hawker Chan - famous for his Soya Sauce Chicken Rice. His hawker stall had closed for the day, so we went around the corner to his shopfront, where 75% of the menu was sold out, but the signature dish still available. Sadly the serve was no where near the size of last time 😕 (here's the flashback - https://findpenguins.com/4ar8jyvngbq0y/footprin… )

    Another visit to the supermarket and another night swim rounded the day out nicely.
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  • Steamy Singapore

    20 kwietnia 2023, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We caught the train from the airport to the city, arriving at our hotel at 8am... a little too early to check in, so we dropped our bags and went for a walk in the local area.

    We found the nearest supermarket, had some morning tea, and found a few caches before heading back to check-in at 11.30am.

    Neither of us slept much on the flight, so we had an afternoon nap before going for another walk along the river late afternoon.

    It was very hot walking around, 32 degrees and super humid, so we had a bite of tea and went back to the hotel for a swim before bedtime.
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  • Zurich Flughafen

    19 kwietnia 2023, Szwajcaria ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Only one activity today, a flight to Singapore.

    The nice thing about an airport hotel, it's just a walk to the terminal.

    We departed a few minutes late at 11.55am, but arrived Singapore on time at 5.50 am... to 30 degrees and humid!

    Changi Airport is as quiet as a mouse, we were off the plane and had our bags in hand by 6.15 am, ready to catch the train to the city...
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  • No time to zzz in Zurich

    18 kwietnia 2023, Szwajcaria ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We only have one day in Zurich, so caught the train to the city this morning. This was our first lesson in what an expensive city this is - return train tickets were $22 each (for a 24 hour pass anywhere around the city).

    We walked across the many bridges in the city, up and down the funicular to the university, and around the old town streets, stopping for lunch and a few caches on the way. (Lunch from a street caravan was a burger, pesto pasta and 2 cappuccinos... $57. Ouch!)

    We noticed plenty of Lamborghinis, Bentleys and Maserati's in the streets, and had a quick look in the Tesla dealership in the heart of the city.

    We caught the train back to our airport hotel late afternoon and went for a walk around the park behind the airport, home to the shortest funicular in Switzerland with a length of 78.5 metres and a rise of just 23 metres!
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  • Aeroporto da Madeira

    17 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We have an afternoon flight to Zurich, and only 6km to travel to the airport, so we had breakfast on the terrace before making our way to the airport late morning.

    The road from Machico to the airport travels under the runway, between the supporting pylons - the runway extension completed in 2000 was built on a platform, partly over the ocean, supported by 180 columns, each about 70 m tall. The terminal itself is mostly underground.

    We already had plenty of time to kill, but that was made worse by our plane from Zurich being an hour late leaving, so we were then scheduled to depart Funchal at 5.50pm.

    The airport is constantly busy, averaging 84 aircraft movements a day, and handling over 4 million passengers a year. Fortunately the departure lounge is on the top level and has an outdoor viewing area which overlooks the runway!

    By the time our departure time came around the original flight plan had expired, so we had another delay on the tarmac, finally taking off at 6.15pm.

    We arrived Zurich at 10.50pm and were thankful that we booked an airport hotel, so we were in the room by 11.45pm (the bloke in front of us at reception didn't have a booking... and both hotels in this area are fully booked with a conference this week, so he may have been in for a long night!)
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  • Meandering in Machico

    16 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Free day in Machico today, and the weather is warm and clear, so we thought we do some of the walking tracks around town.

    As we discovered in Porto Moniz, there are walking tracks throughout each town, but they don't appear on any maps, so it's a bit of trial and error to get the right one.

    We began near our apartment on the western side of town, with a track that crosses the main highway and heads toward the airport. It got very steep, very quickly, so we found another path down, back towards to centre of town.

    After some meandering we realised we were only a few hundred metres from one last cache (there's always just one more 🤣), so we trekked up the hill to the east to claim it.

    We found a series of levadas and roads down to the beach to join Bek and Jake for alfresco lunch near the fort, then headed back uphill to our accommodation for a quiet afternoon.
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  • North Coast

    15 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Time to leave Porto Moniz and travel across the north coast from west to east.

    We engaged the same taxi driver to pick us up and give us a tour of the north coast, narrowly avoiding a road block as the São Vicente Car Rally was starting on the public roads this morning.

    We stopped at the black sand beach of Sexial, voted in the top 3 beaches in Europe in 2022 - not for the quality the beach (because the blank sand turns to black mud after going in the water), but because of the setting.

    We stopped briefly to see some traditional Madeiran triangle houses in Santana. They are made of straw and wood because they were both abundant materials in the early days, and the high pitched roof assisted to keep the rainwater running off.

    Another glass viewpoint visited at Guindaste, this one vying for the world's shortest? 😂

    Porto Da Cruz is home to a rum distillery, so while Bek and Jake sampled their wares, Oliver and I climbed the nearby viewpoint for a cache and watched the many surfers in the bay.

    Two more viewing areas were visited before arriving in Machico, both with views of the airport. We stayed a while and watched a number of planes take off and land - the airport is certainly busier that we thought it would be!

    After settling into our accommodation, we headed to the city centre for a late lunch and a walk around the beach front, which is split into two by a breakwater. One end is a pebble covered surf beach, the other a sandy swimming beach in a protected end of the bay. It is one of the few sandy beaches of Madeira, with sand imported from North Africa. The sand imports were quite controversial, as the sand was taken from Western Sahara, a Non-Self Governing Territory which has been largely occupied by Morocco since 1975.
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  • Caching up and down the mountain

    14 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The weather is cool and overcast again today, so our plan to swim in the natural sea baths was put on hold.

    We solved a puzzle cache this morning so we set out on a mission! It was located beyond the end of a walking path, about 700m from our apartment. After some searching we found that one and was walking back to town past the school got chatting to the caretaker (it's currently school holidays), so we had a look around their indoor football stadium and 6 lane swimming pool... and he motioned that there is a walking path up the mountain (his English was as good as our Portuguese 😁).

    We set off up the path (toward a cache that we aborted the search for 2 nights ago when we ran out of footpath), and kept going up until we reached our destination. And, as luck would have it, a local cafe was just up the road. After a steak sandwich, coffee and Portuguese tart, we headed back down the walking path toward the coast.

    Still too cold for a swim, we walked around the town for a while, and had dinner in.
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  • The teleferico that wasn't

    13 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Our plan today was to catch the cablecar from nearby Achadas da Cruz, down the cliff to sea level to a village that has no inhabitants, but the farmers still visit regularly to tend their crops. ,

    The cable car has a length of 600 meters and a slope of 98%, starting at 451 meters and ending by the sea... one of the steepest around and a must see for us.... except that when we arrived it was closed for maintenance 😞

    Our taxi driver claimed he didn't know it was closed, despite it being closed all week and him specialising in tourist transfers in the area (as well us asking at the start of the trip if it was open)... so that was 50 euro not well spent! 

    He gave us the option of walking down and up instead, a path about five kilometers long, which was once used by local farmers to transport their crops. We declined.

    The afternoon was raining off and on, so in between showers we grabbed a few caches and made another visit to the supermarket, before cooking dinner in.
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  • Cliffs and Clouds

    12 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We're leaving Funchal today and heading to the north west corner of the island to Porto Moniz.

    We contacted a taxi driver a few days ago who specialises in transfers for tourists and agreed a price for the journey, including stops on the way. To drive direct takes one hour, so we hired him for 4 hours with 3 stops.

    First stop was the Cabo Girão Viewpoint, famous for its suspended glass platform. At 589m it's claimed as the highest sea cliff in Europe and the 2nd highest in the world (but both claims are in dispute!)

    We then ascended the central mountain range close to the highest point of the island, where we were above the clouds for much of the journey.

    On the northern side of the island we stopped at the Fanal Forest, an old growth laurel forest - it's at 1500m altitude and often shrouded in cloud, giving it a mystical appearance... but the cloud blows in quickly and disappears just as fast. Laurel forests were once spread throughout Europe, but today are practically extinct, so the Madeira Islands laurel forest was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999, covering an area of 150 square kilometres.

    We arrived at Porto Moniz at 2pm, had some lunch on the foreshore and a trip to the supermarket. Oliver and I then went for a caching walk, and had an impromptu Levada walk.

    A levada is an irrigation channel or aqueduct specific to Madeira. They were originally constructed of stone and later concrete to irrigate the sugarcane fields, and usually have a walking path next to it. There are more than 2,170 kilometres of levadas - not bad for an island 57km long and 22km wide.
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  • Teleferico up, Carreiros down

    11 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We made an early start today to ride the cable car (Teleferico) up the mountain behind Funchal. The cruise ship passengers usually do it in the morning, so we avoided the last 2 days when there were 2 ships in, with a total of 7,500 passengers. Today there is only 1 ship of less than 200.

    The journey up the mountain is 3km, and there there are a number of gardens, churches and a palace that can be viewed at the top.

    The fun way to come down is by wicker basket sled (Carreiros do Monte). The small village of Monte, perched in the hills overlooking Funchal, was formerly a health resort for Europe's high society, so what began as a method of transport in the late 1800's for the elite, is now purely for tourism.
    Standing on the back of the sled, 2 white-uniformed drivers (Carreiros), wearing straw boaters and rubber soled shoes, steer the baskets along the narrow winding streets 2km downhill, at up to 40kmh.

    After our slide down the hill we caught the local bus back to the city centre, walked along the promenade, and visited the supermarket to buy supplies for dinner.
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  • Nuns, Winston, Poncha and Nikita

    10 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We joined a half day tour to the Valley of the Nuns today, only 8km as the crow flies, but 17km by road from Funchal, and at an altitude of 1,095m. The road out of Funchal is very steep and windy and the views spectacular. The south coast is thick with eucalyptus trees... but some history fun-facts first...

    Madeira Island was discovered in 1419 by the Portuguese navigators João Gonçalves Zarco, Tristão Vaz Teixeira, and Bartolomeu Perestrelo. It was uninhabited at the time. Due to the number of trees, they named the island "Isla de Madeira" (Island of Wood).

    Most of the islands' trees were cut for timber by early settlers. In the 16th and 17th centuries the southern side of Madeira was converted to sugarcane plantations, and Eucalyptus was also planted extensively, displacing native species.

    We began our day with a visit to a viewpoint over the Valley of the Nuns, which was the best way to see the village (named when Nuns fled there for just 3 days in the 1500's fleeing a pirate attack in Funchal... so there is no convent and no Nuns!

    On the way back to Funchal (the name Funchal derives from the plant Foeniculum Vulgare, the fennel plant, prominent in the early regional cuisine and confectionery), we stopped in at Câmara de Lobos, a fishing village famous for black scabbardfish and Winston Churchill's visit in 1950 where he painted landscapes in his leisure time.

    In the afternoon we partook in some traditional Madeiran drinks - Poncha, made with sugarcane rum, honey, sugar, and fruit juice, and
    Nikita, originally from Câmara de Lobos, consisting of pineapple ice cream, pineapple juice, and either white beer or white wine. It was created in 1985 by a man called Marcelino, who named it after his favourite Elton John song.
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  • Down the waterfront with CR7

    9 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We had a sleep-in this morning, the first day in 7 weeks we haven't set an alarm. After a leisurely breakfast we headed out for a walk around the backstreets.

    Being Easter Sunday there wasn't much open, but after a quick visit to church, we found a cafe to stop for lunch (black scabbardfish rolls).

    Our original plan was to catch the cablecar up the mountain behind town, and ride a traditional toboggan part way down. That was stymied when we got to the front of the ticket line and saw a notice that the toboggans don't run on Sundays.

    Change of plan was to visit the waterfront near the Cristiano Ronaldo statue, museum and hotel - they certainly are proud of their favourite son in this town!

    We tried to go down the main cruise ship dock (to get a cache, of course), but were blocked by security, so we rested a while and watched the ferry from Porto Santo dock and unload (Porto Santo is the second largest island in the Madeira Island group - Christopher Columbus lived on Porto Santo briefly, having married one of the daughters of Bartolomeu Perestrelo, one of the navigators who discovered Madeira).

    We meandered back to our apartment via Santa Catarina Park, and had favourite Portuguese dinner in-house - toasted sheep's cheese and black pork neck sandwiches.
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  • Lisbon to Madeira

    8 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We had a mid morning flight from Lisbon to Funchal, the capital of Madeira.

    Funchal Airport has a reputation as one of the most difficult approaches in the world, mainly due to the unpredictable winds off the nearby mountains. The runway was also very narrow because of the limited space, so they have now widened the runway with pylons built over the sea. But ours was a smooth, textbook landing.

    Our accommodation wasn't available until 3pm, so we dropped our bags, had some lunch in the square outside our apartment, and went for a walk around the foreshore. There was only 2 cruise ships docked today, but they have had up to 15 (to watch the New Year's Eve fireworks display last year).

    After a visit to the supermarket for supplies, Oliver and I went for a walk back to the foreshore to attend a geocaching event, then a quick walk around the old town before a much anticipated quiet night in after our busy last few weeks.
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  • Beaches to Lisbon

    7 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Our final day with Rui, and we had a 300km/4.5 hour journey back to Lisbon, via the scenic coast road.

    First stop was the Cape of Saint Vincent and The Fortress of Sagres, on the most south westerly point of continental Europe. A noticeable line is visible where the cold waters of the Atlantic meet the warm water of the Mediterranean. It is also home to one of the brightest lighthouses in the world, its light visible up to 60km away.

    Lunch stop was the picturesque beach, Praia de Odeceixe (pronounced o-de-say-shu).

    Our last stop of the day was Pessegueiro Fort and nearby Pessegueiro Island (Peach Tree Fort/Island). The island also has an unfinished fort, and evidence of occupation dating back to 200BC. It was home to a small fishing centre, and has recently discovered remains of salting tanks. As there are no peach trees on the island, it is believed the fishing activities gave the island its name as a mistranslation of the Latin "piscatorius" (fisherman). Or perhaps it's the medieval French, where "Pêche" (peach) and "pêche" (fishing) are still homophones, as we saw in Morocco where Peach Juice was mistranslated as Fishing Juice!

    The cache of the day was in the quarry where rock for Pessegueiro Fort was sourced, while trying to avoid the stinging nettles which covered the passages. Extraction was done by bending a vine into a cradle and lifting it without setting foot on the ground.

    The remainder of the journey was on motorways and we arrived in Lisbon at 5.30pm for a night in an airport hotel before our flight to Madeira tomorrow.
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  • Algarve coast

    6 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The Algarve region covers the southern coast of Portugal and is home to 25 resort towns and countless beaches.

    It is the Portuguese regions with the highest number of foreign residents, the highest percentage being British

    We travelled today from the eastern end to the western end, first stop Olhão, a former fishing village, now low key tourist resort.

    The largest city in Algarve is Portimão, which has become a popular holiday destination, mainly due to the famous Praia da Rocha (Stone Beach), which owes its name to the rocky outcrops found on the beach. It is one of the most famous in the Algarve, if not the whole country, and fills with tourists from all over the world every summer.

    We finished the day at Lagos, a highrise resort city, and our stop for the night.
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  • Bones and stones

    5 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    What better way to start the day than a visit to the Royal Church of St. Francis in Évora, best known for its ghoulish Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), where walls and pillars are lined with human skulls and bones. It was built in the 16th century by monks who wished to communicate the message of the transitory nature of life. Over the door is a painted message that reminds visitors of their own mortality: Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos: "Our bones that are here await yours!"
    There is an estimated 5,000 skeletons decorating the chapel.

    We detoured onto the dirt roads to visit The Cromlech of Almendres, a circle of prehistoric stones with 95 stone monoliths. It was discovered in 1964 during mapping work for the Geological Map of Portugal. The vegetation was cleared and some pieces of pottery and a polished stone axe were discovered at the site. While we were there we placed a cache, our first overseas! Rui has kindly agreed to do any required maintenance on his regular visits to the site.

    Next stop was the picturesque village of Monsaraz, built on top of a hill that overlooks the right bank of the Guadiana River which forms the border between Portugal and Spain. The village has a maze of narrow streets and small flower-filled squares, 750 inhabitants and six churches, as well as an impressive castle (no visit for us this time).

    Monsaraz overlooks Lake Alqueva, the largest artificial lake in Europe. We crossed the main dam wall (458m long, 96m high) before starting on the Portuguese rollercoaster - 1 hour of bumpy roads followed by and hour of windy roads. We were certainly shaken and stirred by the time we arrived in Tavira, our stop for the night.

    Tavira is a small city on the Algarve coast, particularly popular with English tourists. We had time for a walk around town before dinner outdoors on the promenade.
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  • Corker of a day

    4 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We started the day with a visit to the city of Elvas, home to a large Bastion Fort, or Star Fort, so named because of it's shape.

    It also has the Amoreira Aqueduct which is 6 kilometres long and still supplies the city with pure water. Construction was completed in 1622.

    We then made a quick visit to Spain , see separate post.

    We have been seeing many cork trees on the roadsides, and this afternoon had the opportunity to visit a working cork factory. The trees are harvested every 9 years, with the best cork not produced until the tree is around 40 years old. The cork grows on the outside of the bark, so removing it doesn't harm the tree.

    We finished the day at Evora, whose roots go back to the Roman Empire. The Historic Center of Évora, made up of narrow alleyways, courtyards and squares, is UNESCO Heritage listed, and circled by over 3km of medieval walls.
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  • Impromptu visit to Spain

    4 kwietnia 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    As we were travelling so close to Spain we made the short detour to the city of Badajoz. We walked a section of the city walls, found a couple caches and had lunch before heading back to Portugal.

  • Historic Villages

    3 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We continued our tour of the Historic Villages of Portugal, a group of 12 villages/human settlements classified as important to the history of Portugal.

    The first stop today was Belmonte, birthplace of Pedro Cabral, the Portuguese navigator regarded as the European discoverer of Brazil. He was the first person recorded to have visited 4 continents, during his voyage of 1500.
    The castle was closed today, so after a quick walk around town, we continued on to Centrum Cellas, a first century Roman tower on the outskirts of town, whose original use is still being debated.

    Second Historic Village of the day was Sortelha, a beautifully restored walled city and castle. Again, most shops were closed and only a handful tourists were wandering around.

    Next stop, Monsanto, awarded the title "Most Portuguese village in Portugal" in 1938. Not sure how they came to that conclusion... there's not a lot of other villages built around giant granite boulders. It's an otherworldly experience, with rocks forming the walls or roof of many of the houses, and a castle overlooking the whole town. It was also used as a filming location for Game of Thrones.

    At the base of Monsanto Castle is the Necropolis of São Miguel, a Roman burial ground where the bodies were buried in human shaped carvings in the stone. The bodies and lids are long gone, but they have so far discovered 80 tombs in the area.

    Our accommodation tonight is in Marvão, a city fully encircled by defensive walls, perched atop a rocky outcrop. Being only a few kilometres from Spain, it has been a defensive stronghold since the 8th Century.
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  • No snow today

    2 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We continued our journey down the eastern side of the country with a visit to Lamego. We viewed the 660 monastery access steps from the bottom, but didn't climb them this time.

    Morning tea was in Trancoso before walking through the walled city and along some sections of the 13th century walls. Being a Sunday, most of the shops were closed and the streets were eerily deserted.

    The journey to Seia took us across Stella da Estrella, the highest mountain in mainland Portugal - an unusual summit as it is accessible by a paved road. The highest point is not a distinctive mountain summit, but rather the highest point on a plateau, and is known as Torre ("Tower" in English). In winter the area is Portugal's only ski resort, but today was crisp and clear with good views in all directions.

    In Saia we toured the National Bread Museum, unsurprisingly, the largest of its type in the world!

    Our accommodation tonight is on the outskirts of Covilha, with views over the entire city... and we're the only guests staying in the hotel tonight.
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  • Douro Valley

    1 kwietnia 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We woke up to a cloudy, overcast day for our journey east, up the Douro Valley. Amongst low cloud, the first stop was Amarante, where the local market was in full swing.

    We followed the river, with it's steep banks lined with terraced vineyards, and stopped in Pinháo for lunch. There were 2 river cruise boats in dock, but they must have been out wine tasting, as the small town was very quiet.

    Rui made some calls to fit us in for a tasting at a winery that made table wines as well as port (many only make port) and we visited Quinta do Bomfim for a very relaxing afternoon of tasting on their wisteria covered pergola overlooking the Douro River.

    Accommodation tonight is in Peso da Régua where we had dinner at a non-touristy restaurant (ie not on the waterfront). The staff spoke no English (the same amount as our Portuguese), so we had much laughter communicating our order. The staff always bring out olives and bread at the start of the meal - they are not complimentary, but added to the bill unless you send them back - and tonight we also received a mystery bowl... of chicken gizzards. And they were quite tasty!
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