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  • Day 13

    Reykjavik - Final Day - Final Thoughts

    November 12, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 41 °F

    So our last day in Reykjavik. It has been an amazing trip and one of the best Holidays. We thought we would do some final thoughts:

    Reykjavik, though small, is a world class city. The people are truly friendly and the pride in their culture shows through in all they do and how they treat others. Their history has taught them to honor the earth and her resources and they do all they can everyday to sustain the resources they have been provided. Geothermal power, clean air, clean water and preserving their way of life are top of mind in all they do. When you arrive at their airport, there are signs telling you that the water in Reykjavik is the finest anywhere and please do not buy plastic bottled water but drink straight from the tap. Their streets are clean, their city is designed to be quite livable, they pay everyone a living wage and ensure the people are taken care of in a time of need. Other countries could sure learn from their efforts.

    Communicating in Iceland for Americans is very easy. All Icelanders must learn English as a second language. There is a lot of diversity in Iceland so not everyone speaks English but most do.

    For all of its volcanic activity, Iceland has mountains that are not very tall and mountain ranges that are not very long. Their landscape provides amazing vistas and dramatic skies.

    A quick random thought: Is it considered ironic that a country called Iceland, does not serve ice in their beverages (tea, soda, water)? Just asking….

    Should you travel to Iceland, here are some recommendations:

    Reykjavik Residences - the apartment we rented was in a very good area of town. It was centrally located within the downtown area and within walking distance of everything. The group that manages the property was very helpful and friendly. While not a hotel, you still received daily service with the added bonus of having a full kitchen, laundry, two bedrooms and living room. We would highly recommend this group and they were not that much more expensive than a hotel room.

    Reykjavik is very safe. We never felt uncomfortable walking in any areas of the city or on any part of our tours. Tourism makes up 50 percent of Iceland’s economy so they are very attuned to travelers and their needs.

    Food and drink are very expensive, but are generally good quality and the service is good. However, you should note they never rush you, and most of the time you have to ask for your bill. We would recommend that as you arrive in Reykjavik, if you want any adult beverages, you should buy them at the airport.

    We would recommend Apotek for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Dill, a Michelin-star restaurant, serves a pre-fix seven course dinner. The food was exceptional but there are no choices other than what they have planned for the menu that night. If you would like to try them, you will need to make reservations weeks in advance.

    Most mornings it was Te and Kaffi, great coffee drinks and hot chocolate.

    Meze was good for some Mediterranean flavors, Reykjavik Fish Company had the best fish and chips in town, however, the best fish and chips as well as lamb soup was at the Black Beach visitor center. Icelanders have a unique approach to hot dogs and they are a quick, tasty, cheap street food.

    Try the LAMB. They are truly free range. During the summer the farmers all release their stock to roam the hills and mountains of Reykjavik. At the end of fall right before winter they bring their animals back to the farms. The lamb is the most flavorful and tender I've ever tasted!

    We would not recommend any of the Vietnamese Pho franchise restaurants, they were mediocre at best.

    Toilet paper is single ply and not very soft (they could sure use some Charmin Ultra here).

    Sheri’s favorite coffee shop was in a bookstore in the oldest part of Reykjavik and is called Ida.

    Plan tours with the understanding that they take the whole day in most cases. Try not to schedule night time events with day time events. They can be very exhausting. If you go during the winter, we highly recommend taking the Northern Lights tour as soon as possible as you can reschedule if you don’t see the lights. Tours are available in two main sizes - regular bus size and mini-bus. The regular bus size is a bit less expensive, but you will get less time at the sites as there is more time devoted to the unloading and loading of passengers. We used the ViaTour website/app to plan our tours ahead of time. They are excellent for communicating and you can save things offline. Wi-Fi is available almost everywhere, including on the tour buses, so you don’t really need an international phone or SIM card. If you plan to go on the Southern tour, waterproof pants, boots and jacket are a great way to stay warm and dry.

    There is an app called VoiceMap. It provides walking tours all over the world and the one in Reykjavik was excellent. It will take at least 2 hours to complete so plan accordingly.

    For some reason door-stoops are all raised so you need to be careful entering and leaving rooms of any kind.

    Expect wind and rain. Don’t bother with an umbrella.

    The last day we found Dragon Dim Sum, it should not be missed.
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  • Day 12

    Reykjavik - Day 9 - Shopping and Dinner

    November 11, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    In order to be able to do our final shopping and revisit some favorite spots, we decided that the last day would just be sort of free style. We revisited the hotdog stand (this time I got one and boy it was good.) Our favorite part is that the bun is lined with crunchy onions. We returned to Harpa and did some shopping, then onto a great little jeweler we had visited several times.

    Stopped again for hot chocolate at Sheri’s bookstore (we’re just going to call it that from now on). Then back to the apartment for a rest and a very special dinner. Sheri had heard of a restaurant called Dill, with one Michelin star, that served a 7 course pre-fixe dinner. We are attaching copies of the menu and food as it was very, very good! If you go to Reykjavik you should plan ahead a get a reservation. I will warn you it is not inexpensive and you only get what is the planned for that evening no exceptions, no substitutions and you should be an adventurous eater.
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  • Day 11

    Reykjavik - Day 8 - The Waterfalls

    November 10, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 41 °F

    Our last couple of stops on the South Shore were waterfalls. One of which you could actually go behind and take pictures looking out, another was a little treacherous in that you had to hike through a very narrow opening in the rocks to get to the waterfall behind it. I discovered that my Idlewild snow boots were actually waterproof! Whew!

    SKOGAFOSS WATERFALL

    The Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). Due to the amount of spray the waterfall consistently produces, a single or double rainbow is normally visible on sunny days. There are 500 steps built into the hillside to get to the top of Skógafoss.

    According to legend, the first Viking settler in the area, Þrasi Þórólfsson, buried a treasure in a cave behind the waterfall. The legend continues that locals found the chest years later, but were only able to grasp the ring on the side of the chest before it disappeared again. The ring was allegedly given to the local church. The old church door ring is now in the Skógar museum.

    The following verse is witness to this legend and has been passed down through the generations:

    The chest in Prasi’s secret lair
    Under the Skogar waterfall
    Rewards the one who ventures there
    With endless riches, great and small

    Skogafoss has been used in movies and streaming series so you may have seen it and not know it!

    The waterfall was a location for the filming of the Marvel Studios film Thor: The Dark World, as well as The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. The waterfall has been used as one of the locations of song "Gerua", in the 2015 Bollywood movie Dilwale featuring Shahrukh Khan and Kajol.

    The official music video of "I'll Show You" features glacial lagoons and rivers in South Iceland, including the waterfall Skógafoss.

    In season 5 of the History Channel series, Vikings, the character Floki witnesses Skógafoss when he discovers Iceland.

    In season 8 of the Game of Thrones series, Daenerys Targaryen and Jon Snow fly to this waterfall with her dragons and kiss in front of it.

    SELJALANDFOSS WATERFALL

    There’s a somewhat slippery very wet path that leads behind the waterfall. You will get wet, but it’s worth it for the spectacular view from behind the waterfall.

    GLJÚFRABÚI WATERFALL

    The name means ‘Dweller in the Gorge’ and what a fitting name because the second waterfall in this area is isolated behind a fissure. We walked on rocks in the water that runs through the fissure to get to this waterfall. The echoing of the water rushing from above is quite amazing.
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  • Day 11

    Reykjavik -Day 8- Solheimajokull Glacier

    November 10, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 39 °F

    Next up on the South Tour is the Sólheimajökull Glacier.

    Sólheimajökull is an outlet glacier of the larger Mýrdalsjökull ice cap which lies atop the Katla caldera. The glacier is melting rapidly owing to warmer annual temperatures due to climate change. It is possible that many of the country's glaciers will become extinct within the next century.

    The small icebergs that have broken off of the glacier lie in a pool at it’s base. The blue is quite beautiful. This is called a moving glacier which means it is still growing. However, with climate change and global warming this may cease and it may start receding.
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  • Day 11

    Reykjavik - Day 8 - Reynisfjara

    November 10, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 45 °F

    Reynisfjara is a world-famous black-sand beach found on the South Coast of Iceland, just beside the small fishing village of Vik í Myrdal about 112 miles from Reykjavik.

    Reynisfjara is around 112 miles (180 kilometers) from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavik, and is a popular stop-off for those taking a sightseeing tour along the popular South Coast.

    Upon visiting the beach, travelers will immediately observe rocky sea stacks sitting off the shoreline, known as Reynisdrangar.

    According to local folklore, these large basalt columns were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to shore. However, these trolls were dim and went out too late in the night; dawn broke on the horizon, turning the trolls into solid stone.

    Another legend tells of a husband whose wife was kidnapped and killed by two trolls. The man followed the trolls down to Reynisfjara where he froze them, ensuring that they would never kill again.

    So mesmerizing are Reynisdrangar that they were featured in Season 7 of the HBO Series Game of Thrones. You can spot them in a few scenes shot ‘North of the Wall’.

    The sea stacks themselves are home to thousands of nesting seabirds. Species that can be found nesting on the cliffs include puffins, fulmars, and guillemots, making it a must-see location for birdwatchers.

    On this journey we actually had the best meat soup and the best fish and chips at the Black Beach visitor center. It’s interesting that these tours usually have a lunch stop and the centers have good food even though they would be what we consider a “tourist trap” restaurant. In other places we’ve travelled and even in the US this is generally not the case
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  • Day 10

    Reykjavik - Day 7 - Whales

    November 9, 2022, Greenland Sea ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    On day seven of our journey, Sheri and I decided to add whale watching to the itinerary. We started out the morning with coffee and cocoa at our Te and Kaffi shop, worked for a couple of hours to entertain all of you with our adventure (what you thought this stuff just appears)?

    After lunch at what is now our favorite restaurant, Apotek, we headed for the boat and the open waters. Thankfully it was a beautiful calm day so no need for sea sick pills. The boat was full but there was plenty of space for everyone.

    The tour was scheduled for a 3 hour tour (Gilligan’s Island anyone?). An hour out, an hour searching for whales, an hour back. These Icelanders keep everything running on a tight schedule which is good and bad (mostly good).

    We reached the area where the whales were generally found and almost immediately they spotted a Minke whale. The types of whales we would be seeing are more solitary than school species, so seeing one does not guarantee you will see another. This Minke was shy and only showed up a couple of times and then went on his/her way.

    Then the clowns arrived in the form of white beaked dolphins. They’re fairly large, brown striped with a white snout (hence white beaked). They run in schools so a lot of splashing and jumping by the younger kids made for fun viewing.

    Then the spouting of a humpback whale was spotted and the fun began. The whale took a liking to our boat and played with us breaching several times. The it decided to go under the boat and appear on the other side. Well worth the time and trip to see these amazing creatures.
    Videos are being uploaded in pieces due to FindPenguins restrictions. The first video is a view of us leaving the harbor. The second is of the dolphins.

    Finished the evening with dinner at a Scandinavian restaurant. Food was pretty good,
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  • Day 10

    Reykjavik - Day 8 - Eyjafjallajokull

    November 9, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 37 °F

    Today’s tour is going North of Reykjavik. First up Eyjafjallajökull.

    Eyjafjallajökull consists of a volcano completely covered by an ice cap. The ice cap covers an area of about 80 square kilometres (30 square miles) feeding many outlet glaciers.

    The Eyjafjallajökull volcano last erupted on 14 April 2010 in Iceland. It left behind vast ash clouds so large that in some areas daylight was entirely obscured. The cloud not only darkened the sky but also interfered with hundreds of plane flights. However, the people of Iceland were not concerned about the ash clouds: they were more concerned about flooding. That year all the residents close to the volcano had to evacuate in case the area flooded. When the volcano erupted, all the melted ice had to go somewhere. It did not flood that much: most of it went into rivers, but if it had flooded down the farm valleys it could have swept away all the farms in the valley. The farms in the valley were however covered in a soft layer of ash, which the farmers thought would give bad crops, but the warmth and nutrition from the ash enabled the crops to grow rather well
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  • Day 9

    Reykjavik - Day 6 - The Blue Lagoon

    November 8, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    In the year 1226, six volcanic craters exploded at the same time. The explosions caused major damage to the area in the form of the astonishing lava field, Illahraun, that we continue to admire today. Part of the lava terrain is called Svartsengi (i.e. The Black Meadow), and since the year 1976, an active power station Svartsengi Geothermal Power has been located there.

    The Blue Lagoon’s unique minerals were discovered as the power station drilled into the area. As they began to drill, a thick, almost neon-blue water appeared. Unfortunately, this water wasn’t great for the power station since it coated the engines and stopped them from running entirely.

    As a result, the workers dumped this trouble-making water onto the lava field and moved to a safer area to pump water. Meanwhile, the silica-rich water quickly coated the lava rocks, sealing in the water, and creating the lagoon that we now know as the Blue Lagoon.

    The Blue Lagoon tourism can thank an employee of the power plant for it’s popularity. Valur Margeirsson asked if he could swim in the geothermal pool created by Svartsengi´s operations. He suffered from psoriasis and did not want to swim in a public pool. The soothing water healed his skin. When other psoriasis sufferers tried it, their condition also improved greatly. Today the Blue Lagoon Clinic is an internationally recognized psoriasis treatment facility.

    Each visitor gets a free clay mask to refresh the skin. A bit gimmicky, but our skin did feel softer afterward. We were there after dark so the water has a milky white glow rather than the beautiful blue you see in the cover photo which was taken just as we arrived.

    The sunset photo was taken on our ride to the blue lagoon.
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  • Day 9

    Reykjavik - Day 6 - Kerid Volcano

    November 8, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    We walked along the top of the crater which offered spectacular views of the terrain below and the far horizon. Iceland is a very flat place with vistas that go on for miles and miles. The mountain ranges are not long or tall (really more like hills than mountains). The good thing is, they don’t obstruct those beautiful views.

    From Wikipedia:

    Kerið is a volcanic crater lake located in the Grímsnes area in south Iceland, along the Golden Circle. It is one of several crater lakes in the area, known as Iceland's Western Volcanic Zone, which includes the Reykjanes peninsula and the Langjökull Glacier, created as the land moved over a localized hotspot, but it is the one that has the most visually recognizable caldera still intact. The caldera, like the other volcanic rock in the area, is composed of a red (rather than black) volcanic rock. The caldera itself is approximately 55 m (180 ft) deep, 170 m (560 ft) wide, and 270 m (890 ft) across. Kerið's caldera is one of the three most recognizable volcanic craters because at approximately 6,500 years old, it is only half the age of most of the surrounding volcanic features. The other two are Seyðishólar and Kerhóll.

    While most of the crater is steep-walled with little vegetation, one wall is sloped more gently and blanketed with a deep moss, and can be descended fairly easily. The lake itself is fairly shallow (7–14 metres, depending on rainfall and other factors), but due to minerals from the soil, is an opaque and strikingly vivid aquamarine.

    Although volcanologists originally believed Kerið was formed by a huge volcanic explosion, as is the accepted norm with volcanic craters, more thorough studies of the Grímsnes region failed to find any evidence of such an explosion in Kerið. It is now believed that Kerið was a cone volcano which erupted and emptied its magma reserve. Once the magma was depleted, the weight of the cone collapsed into the empty magma chamber. The current pool of water at the bottom of the crater is at the same level as the water table and is not caused by rainfall.
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