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- Day 13
- Saturday, November 12, 2022 at 12:00 PM
- 🌧 41 °F
- Altitude: 128 ft
IcelandHljómskálagarðurinn64°8’34” N 21°55’57” W
Reykjavik - Final Day - Final Thoughts

So our last day in Reykjavik. It has been an amazing trip and one of the best Holidays. We thought we would do some final thoughts:
Reykjavik, though small, is a world class city. The people are truly friendly and the pride in their culture shows through in all they do and how they treat others. Their history has taught them to honor the earth and her resources and they do all they can everyday to sustain the resources they have been provided. Geothermal power, clean air, clean water and preserving their way of life are top of mind in all they do. When you arrive at their airport, there are signs telling you that the water in Reykjavik is the finest anywhere and please do not buy plastic bottled water but drink straight from the tap. Their streets are clean, their city is designed to be quite livable, they pay everyone a living wage and ensure the people are taken care of in a time of need. Other countries could sure learn from their efforts.
Communicating in Iceland for Americans is very easy. All Icelanders must learn English as a second language. There is a lot of diversity in Iceland so not everyone speaks English but most do.
For all of its volcanic activity, Iceland has mountains that are not very tall and mountain ranges that are not very long. Their landscape provides amazing vistas and dramatic skies.
A quick random thought: Is it considered ironic that a country called Iceland, does not serve ice in their beverages (tea, soda, water)? Just asking….
Should you travel to Iceland, here are some recommendations:
Reykjavik Residences - the apartment we rented was in a very good area of town. It was centrally located within the downtown area and within walking distance of everything. The group that manages the property was very helpful and friendly. While not a hotel, you still received daily service with the added bonus of having a full kitchen, laundry, two bedrooms and living room. We would highly recommend this group and they were not that much more expensive than a hotel room.
Reykjavik is very safe. We never felt uncomfortable walking in any areas of the city or on any part of our tours. Tourism makes up 50 percent of Iceland’s economy so they are very attuned to travelers and their needs.
Food and drink are very expensive, but are generally good quality and the service is good. However, you should note they never rush you, and most of the time you have to ask for your bill. We would recommend that as you arrive in Reykjavik, if you want any adult beverages, you should buy them at the airport.
We would recommend Apotek for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Dill, a Michelin-star restaurant, serves a pre-fix seven course dinner. The food was exceptional but there are no choices other than what they have planned for the menu that night. If you would like to try them, you will need to make reservations weeks in advance.
Most mornings it was Te and Kaffi, great coffee drinks and hot chocolate.
Meze was good for some Mediterranean flavors, Reykjavik Fish Company had the best fish and chips in town, however, the best fish and chips as well as lamb soup was at the Black Beach visitor center. Icelanders have a unique approach to hot dogs and they are a quick, tasty, cheap street food.
Try the LAMB. They are truly free range. During the summer the farmers all release their stock to roam the hills and mountains of Reykjavik. At the end of fall right before winter they bring their animals back to the farms. The lamb is the most flavorful and tender I've ever tasted!
We would not recommend any of the Vietnamese Pho franchise restaurants, they were mediocre at best.
Toilet paper is single ply and not very soft (they could sure use some Charmin Ultra here).
Sheri’s favorite coffee shop was in a bookstore in the oldest part of Reykjavik and is called Ida.
Plan tours with the understanding that they take the whole day in most cases. Try not to schedule night time events with day time events. They can be very exhausting. If you go during the winter, we highly recommend taking the Northern Lights tour as soon as possible as you can reschedule if you don’t see the lights. Tours are available in two main sizes - regular bus size and mini-bus. The regular bus size is a bit less expensive, but you will get less time at the sites as there is more time devoted to the unloading and loading of passengers. We used the ViaTour website/app to plan our tours ahead of time. They are excellent for communicating and you can save things offline. Wi-Fi is available almost everywhere, including on the tour buses, so you don’t really need an international phone or SIM card. If you plan to go on the Southern tour, waterproof pants, boots and jacket are a great way to stay warm and dry.
There is an app called VoiceMap. It provides walking tours all over the world and the one in Reykjavik was excellent. It will take at least 2 hours to complete so plan accordingly.
For some reason door-stoops are all raised so you need to be careful entering and leaving rooms of any kind.
Expect wind and rain. Don’t bother with an umbrella.
The last day we found Dragon Dim Sum, it should not be missed.Read more
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- Day 12
- Friday, November 11, 2022 at 6:52 PM
- ☁️ 41 °F
- Altitude: 66 ft
IcelandRauðarárvík64°8’41” N 21°55’22” W
Reykjavik - Day 9 - Shopping and Dinner

In order to be able to do our final shopping and revisit some favorite spots, we decided that the last day would just be sort of free style. We revisited the hotdog stand (this time I got one and boy it was good.) Our favorite part is that the bun is lined with crunchy onions. We returned to Harpa and did some shopping, then onto a great little jeweler we had visited several times.
Stopped again for hot chocolate at Sheri’s bookstore (we’re just going to call it that from now on). Then back to the apartment for a rest and a very special dinner. Sheri had heard of a restaurant called Dill, with one Michelin star, that served a 7 course pre-fixe dinner. We are attaching copies of the menu and food as it was very, very good! If you go to Reykjavik you should plan ahead a get a reservation. I will warn you it is not inexpensive and you only get what is the planned for that evening no exceptions, no substitutions and you should be an adventurous eater.Read more
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- Day 11
- Thursday, November 10, 2022 at 3:16 PM
- 🌧 41 °F
- Altitude: 138 ft
IcelandSkógafoss63°31’51” N 19°30’45” W
Reykjavik - Day 8 - The Waterfalls

Our last couple of stops on the South Shore were waterfalls. One of which you could actually go behind and take pictures looking out, another was a little treacherous in that you had to hike through a very narrow opening in the rocks to get to the waterfall behind it. I discovered that my Idlewild snow boots were actually waterproof! Whew!
SKOGAFOSS WATERFALL
The Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). Due to the amount of spray the waterfall consistently produces, a single or double rainbow is normally visible on sunny days. There are 500 steps built into the hillside to get to the top of Skógafoss.
According to legend, the first Viking settler in the area, Þrasi Þórólfsson, buried a treasure in a cave behind the waterfall. The legend continues that locals found the chest years later, but were only able to grasp the ring on the side of the chest before it disappeared again. The ring was allegedly given to the local church. The old church door ring is now in the Skógar museum.
The following verse is witness to this legend and has been passed down through the generations:
The chest in Prasi’s secret lair
Under the Skogar waterfall
Rewards the one who ventures there
With endless riches, great and small
Skogafoss has been used in movies and streaming series so you may have seen it and not know it!
The waterfall was a location for the filming of the Marvel Studios film Thor: The Dark World, as well as The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. The waterfall has been used as one of the locations of song "Gerua", in the 2015 Bollywood movie Dilwale featuring Shahrukh Khan and Kajol.
The official music video of "I'll Show You" features glacial lagoons and rivers in South Iceland, including the waterfall Skógafoss.
In season 5 of the History Channel series, Vikings, the character Floki witnesses Skógafoss when he discovers Iceland.
In season 8 of the Game of Thrones series, Daenerys Targaryen and Jon Snow fly to this waterfall with her dragons and kiss in front of it.
SELJALANDFOSS WATERFALL
There’s a somewhat slippery very wet path that leads behind the waterfall. You will get wet, but it’s worth it for the spectacular view from behind the waterfall.
GLJÚFRABÚI WATERFALL
The name means ‘Dweller in the Gorge’ and what a fitting name because the second waterfall in this area is isolated behind a fissure. We walked on rocks in the water that runs through the fissure to get to this waterfall. The echoing of the water rushing from above is quite amazing.Read more
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- Day 11
- Thursday, November 10, 2022 at 2:00 PM
- 🌧 39 °F
- Altitude: 604 ft
IcelandGullfoss64°19’34” N 20°7’27” W
Reykjavik -Day 8- Solheimajokull Glacier

Next up on the South Tour is the Sólheimajökull Glacier.
Sólheimajökull is an outlet glacier of the larger Mýrdalsjökull ice cap which lies atop the Katla caldera. The glacier is melting rapidly owing to warmer annual temperatures due to climate change. It is possible that many of the country's glaciers will become extinct within the next century.
The small icebergs that have broken off of the glacier lie in a pool at it’s base. The blue is quite beautiful. This is called a moving glacier which means it is still growing. However, with climate change and global warming this may cease and it may start receding.Read more
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- Day 11
- Thursday, November 10, 2022 at 12:57 PM
- 🌧 45 °F
- Altitude: 20 ft
IcelandHálsanefshellir63°24’15” N 19°2’40” W
Reykjavik - Day 8 - Reynisfjara

Reynisfjara is a world-famous black-sand beach found on the South Coast of Iceland, just beside the small fishing village of Vik í Myrdal about 112 miles from Reykjavik.
Reynisfjara is around 112 miles (180 kilometers) from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavik, and is a popular stop-off for those taking a sightseeing tour along the popular South Coast.
Upon visiting the beach, travelers will immediately observe rocky sea stacks sitting off the shoreline, known as Reynisdrangar.
According to local folklore, these large basalt columns were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to shore. However, these trolls were dim and went out too late in the night; dawn broke on the horizon, turning the trolls into solid stone.
Another legend tells of a husband whose wife was kidnapped and killed by two trolls. The man followed the trolls down to Reynisfjara where he froze them, ensuring that they would never kill again.
So mesmerizing are Reynisdrangar that they were featured in Season 7 of the HBO Series Game of Thrones. You can spot them in a few scenes shot ‘North of the Wall’.
The sea stacks themselves are home to thousands of nesting seabirds. Species that can be found nesting on the cliffs include puffins, fulmars, and guillemots, making it a must-see location for birdwatchers.
On this journey we actually had the best meat soup and the best fish and chips at the Black Beach visitor center. It’s interesting that these tours usually have a lunch stop and the centers have good food even though they would be what we consider a “tourist trap” restaurant. In other places we’ve travelled and even in the US this is generally not the caseRead more
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- Day 10
- Wednesday, November 9, 2022 at 2:00 PM
- ⛅ 41 °F
- Altitude: Sea level
Greenland Sea64°14’33” N 22°19’29” W
Reykjavik - Day 7 - Whales #2

The first video is more of the whale watching the second is coming back into port.
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- Day 10
- Wednesday, November 9, 2022 at 1:15 PM
- ⛅ 41 °F
- Altitude: Sea level
Greenland Sea64°14’38” N 22°19’35” W
Reykjavik - Day 7 - Whales

On day seven of our journey, Sheri and I decided to add whale watching to the itinerary. We started out the morning with coffee and cocoa at our Te and Kaffi shop, worked for a couple of hours to entertain all of you with our adventure (what you thought this stuff just appears)?
After lunch at what is now our favorite restaurant, Apotek, we headed for the boat and the open waters. Thankfully it was a beautiful calm day so no need for sea sick pills. The boat was full but there was plenty of space for everyone.
The tour was scheduled for a 3 hour tour (Gilligan’s Island anyone?). An hour out, an hour searching for whales, an hour back. These Icelanders keep everything running on a tight schedule which is good and bad (mostly good).
We reached the area where the whales were generally found and almost immediately they spotted a Minke whale. The types of whales we would be seeing are more solitary than school species, so seeing one does not guarantee you will see another. This Minke was shy and only showed up a couple of times and then went on his/her way.
Then the clowns arrived in the form of white beaked dolphins. They’re fairly large, brown striped with a white snout (hence white beaked). They run in schools so a lot of splashing and jumping by the younger kids made for fun viewing.
Then the spouting of a humpback whale was spotted and the fun began. The whale took a liking to our boat and played with us breaching several times. The it decided to go under the boat and appear on the other side. Well worth the time and trip to see these amazing creatures.
Videos are being uploaded in pieces due to FindPenguins restrictions. The first video is a view of us leaving the harbor. The second is of the dolphins.
Finished the evening with dinner at a Scandinavian restaurant. Food was pretty good,Read more
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- Day 10
- Wednesday, November 9, 2022 at 9:32 AM
- ⛅ 37 °F
- Altitude: Sea level
IcelandEngeyjarsund64°10’15” N 21°56’16” W
Reykjavik - Day 8 - Eyjafjallajokull

Today’s tour is going North of Reykjavik. First up Eyjafjallajökull.
Eyjafjallajökull consists of a volcano completely covered by an ice cap. The ice cap covers an area of about 80 square kilometres (30 square miles) feeding many outlet glaciers.
The Eyjafjallajökull volcano last erupted on 14 April 2010 in Iceland. It left behind vast ash clouds so large that in some areas daylight was entirely obscured. The cloud not only darkened the sky but also interfered with hundreds of plane flights. However, the people of Iceland were not concerned about the ash clouds: they were more concerned about flooding. That year all the residents close to the volcano had to evacuate in case the area flooded. When the volcano erupted, all the melted ice had to go somewhere. It did not flood that much: most of it went into rivers, but if it had flooded down the farm valleys it could have swept away all the farms in the valley. The farms in the valley were however covered in a soft layer of ash, which the farmers thought would give bad crops, but the warmth and nutrition from the ash enabled the crops to grow rather wellRead more
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 5:30 PM
- ☁️ 41 °F
- Altitude: 36 ft
IcelandBlue Lagoon63°52’55” N 22°27’11” W
Reykjavik - Day 6 - The Blue Lagoon

In the year 1226, six volcanic craters exploded at the same time. The explosions caused major damage to the area in the form of the astonishing lava field, Illahraun, that we continue to admire today. Part of the lava terrain is called Svartsengi (i.e. The Black Meadow), and since the year 1976, an active power station Svartsengi Geothermal Power has been located there.
The Blue Lagoon’s unique minerals were discovered as the power station drilled into the area. As they began to drill, a thick, almost neon-blue water appeared. Unfortunately, this water wasn’t great for the power station since it coated the engines and stopped them from running entirely.
As a result, the workers dumped this trouble-making water onto the lava field and moved to a safer area to pump water. Meanwhile, the silica-rich water quickly coated the lava rocks, sealing in the water, and creating the lagoon that we now know as the Blue Lagoon.
The Blue Lagoon tourism can thank an employee of the power plant for it’s popularity. Valur Margeirsson asked if he could swim in the geothermal pool created by Svartsengi´s operations. He suffered from psoriasis and did not want to swim in a public pool. The soothing water healed his skin. When other psoriasis sufferers tried it, their condition also improved greatly. Today the Blue Lagoon Clinic is an internationally recognized psoriasis treatment facility.
Each visitor gets a free clay mask to refresh the skin. A bit gimmicky, but our skin did feel softer afterward. We were there after dark so the water has a milky white glow rather than the beautiful blue you see in the cover photo which was taken just as we arrived.
The sunset photo was taken on our ride to the blue lagoon.Read more
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 3:16 PM
- ☁️ 41 °F
- Altitude: 276 ft
IcelandKerið64°2’24” N 20°53’6” W
Reykjavik - Day 6 - Kerid Volcano

We walked along the top of the crater which offered spectacular views of the terrain below and the far horizon. Iceland is a very flat place with vistas that go on for miles and miles. The mountain ranges are not long or tall (really more like hills than mountains). The good thing is, they don’t obstruct those beautiful views.
From Wikipedia:
Kerið is a volcanic crater lake located in the Grímsnes area in south Iceland, along the Golden Circle. It is one of several crater lakes in the area, known as Iceland's Western Volcanic Zone, which includes the Reykjanes peninsula and the Langjökull Glacier, created as the land moved over a localized hotspot, but it is the one that has the most visually recognizable caldera still intact. The caldera, like the other volcanic rock in the area, is composed of a red (rather than black) volcanic rock. The caldera itself is approximately 55 m (180 ft) deep, 170 m (560 ft) wide, and 270 m (890 ft) across. Kerið's caldera is one of the three most recognizable volcanic craters because at approximately 6,500 years old, it is only half the age of most of the surrounding volcanic features. The other two are Seyðishólar and Kerhóll.
While most of the crater is steep-walled with little vegetation, one wall is sloped more gently and blanketed with a deep moss, and can be descended fairly easily. The lake itself is fairly shallow (7–14 metres, depending on rainfall and other factors), but due to minerals from the soil, is an opaque and strikingly vivid aquamarine.
Although volcanologists originally believed Kerið was formed by a huge volcanic explosion, as is the accepted norm with volcanic craters, more thorough studies of the Grímsnes region failed to find any evidence of such an explosion in Kerið. It is now believed that Kerið was a cone volcano which erupted and emptied its magma reserve. Once the magma was depleted, the weight of the cone collapsed into the empty magma chamber. The current pool of water at the bottom of the crater is at the same level as the water table and is not caused by rainfall.Read more
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 2:16 PM
- ⛅ 41 °F
- Altitude: 361 ft
IcelandBiskupstungnahreppur64°18’42” N 20°15’2” W
Reykjavik - Day 6 - Horsies and Salmon

So with a little extra time, Maria our guide, took us a little off tour to see and pet some Icelandic Horses (please don’t call them ponies they get very insulted) and a salmon run at the base of a waterfall.
Sheri created a montage of the pictures but we also posted them individually in case it does not work for you.
About those Icelandic Horses:
The Icelandic horse is a breed of horse developed in Iceland. Although the horses are small, at times pony-sized, most registries for the Icelandic refer to it as a horse. Icelandic horses are long-lived and hardy. In their native country they have few diseases; Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the country and exported animals are not allowed to return. The Icelandic displays two gaits in addition to the typical walk, trot, and canter/gallop commonly displayed by other breeds. The only breed of horse in Iceland, they are also popular internationally, and sizable populations exist in Europe and North America. The breed is still used for traditional sheepherding work in its native country, as well as for leisure, showing, and racing.
Developed from ponies taken to Iceland by Norse settlers in the 9th and 10th centuries, the breed is mentioned in literature and historical records throughout Icelandic history; the first reference to a named horse appears in the 12th century.
The Icelandic is a "five-gaited" breed, known for its sure-footedness and ability to cross rough terrain. As well as the typical gaits of walk, trot, and canter/gallop, the breed is noted for its ability to perform two additional gaits.
The first additional gait is a four-beat lateral ambling gait known as the tölt. This is known for its explosive acceleration and speed; it is also comfortable and ground-covering.
The breed also performs a pace called a skeið, flugskeið or "flying pace". It is used in pacing races, and is fast and smooth, with some horses able to reach up to 30 miles per hour (48 Kilometers). Not all Icelandic horses can perform this gait; animals that perform both the tölt and the flying pace in addition to the traditional gaits are considered the best of the breed.
The salmon run was at the base of a small waterfall and the Icelandic game and fish council created the run to allow the salmon to get further upstream. It is not active in winter, so you don’t see any water on the run in the picture. Look to the left of the waterfall and you will see stone steps that the salmon use to climb up the waterfall.Read more
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 2:00 PM
- ⛅ 41 °F
- Altitude: 604 ft
IcelandGullfoss64°19’34” N 20°7’27” W
Reykjavik - Day 6 - Gullfoss Falls

Watch the video to see the two tiered effects of this beautiful waterfall.
Gullfoss Waterfall: the most popular waterfall in Iceland. Gullfoss is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful in Iceland and is one of the largest. The falls plunge 32 meters over two tiers into the Hvita River below.
Icelanders are very eco conscious (even before the current crisis) and are concerned about the ever increasing effects of both hydropower and geothermal power used to power heavy industry on the Icelandic landscape, river and waterfalls. For this reason the Gullfoss waterfall has special meaning.
In the last century there were plans to dam the Hvítá river to generate electricity but those plans were fiercely opposed by the local woman Sigridur Tomasdottir (1871 – 1957) who lived on the farm of Brattholt just nearby. In her early adulthood she made her living partly by guiding travelers to the waterfall that, at that time, was practically in the middle of nowhere. Her herculean efforts to oppose any plans to use Hvítá or Gullfoss to generate electricity earned her the distinction of being a pioneer of environmentalism in Iceland. Today, tens of thousands of people experience the majesty of Gullfoss waterfall. Sigridur would surely approve, even though the relief plaque (see photo) indicates a stern demeanor.
COUPLE OF OTHER WATERFALL NOTES:
Gullfoss – or “Golden falls” may be the best known Icelandic waterfall, but it is not as powerful as Dettifoss in the north or as high as Glymur in the south-west.Read more
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 12:22 PM
- ⛅ 41 °F
- Altitude: 420 ft
IcelandGeysir64°18’50” N 20°18’6” W
Reykjavik - Day 6 - Geyser

From Wikipedia:
Note: Watch the video to see Strokkur erupt.
Geysir (pronounced geezer), sometimes known as The Great Geysir, is a geyser in southwestern Iceland. It was the first geyser described in a printed source and the first known to modern Europeans.
The English word geyser (a periodically spouting hot spring) derives from Geysir. The name Geysir itself is derived from the Icelandic verb geysa ("to gush"). Geysir lies in the Haukadalur valley on the slopes of Laugarfjall hill, which is also the home to Strokkur geyser.
The research shows that Geysir has been active for approximately 10,000 years. The oldest accounts of hot springs at Haukadalur date back to 1294, when earthquakes in the area caused significant changes in local neighbouring landscape creating several new hot springs. Changes in the activity of Geysir and the surrounding geysers are strongly related to earthquake activity. In records dated 1630, the geysers erupted so violently that the valley around them trembled. The placename "Geysir" has been first mentioned in written sources in 18th century and, as unusual natural phenomena were of high interest to the society during the Age of Enlightenment, the term became popular and has been used for similar hydrothermal features worldwide since then.
History of recent centuries shows that earthquakes have tended to revive the activity of Geysir which then subsides again in the following years. Before 1896, Geysir was almost dormant before an earthquake that year caused eruptions to begin again, occurring several times a day, lasting up to an hour and causing spouts of up to 60 metres (200 ft) in height. In 1910, it was active every 30 minutes; five years later, the time between the eruptions was as much as six hours, and in 1916, the eruptions all but ceased. In 1935, a man-made channel was dug through the silica rim around the edge of the geyser vent. This ditch caused a lowering of the water table and a revival in activity. Gradually this channel became too clogged with silica and eruptions again became rare.
In 1981, the ditch was cleared again and eruptions could be stimulated, on special occasions, by the addition of soap. Due to environmental concerns, the practice of adding soap was seldom employed during the 1990s. During that time, Geysir seldom erupted. When it did erupt, it was spectacular, sending boiling water sometimes up to 70 metres (230 ft) into the air. On the Icelandic National Day, authorized government geologists would force an eruption. A further earthquake in 2000 revived the geyser again and it reached 122 meters for two days, thus becoming one of the highest known geysers in history (Waimangu Geyser in New Zealand erupted up to 460 metres (1,510 ft) high, but stopped erupting around 1900). Initially, eruptions were taking place on average eight times a day. By July 2003, this activity had again decreased to around three times per day.
LITTLE GEYSIR
The nearby geyser Strokkur erupts much more frequently than Geysir, erupting to heights of up to 30 metres (98 ft) every few minutes. Strokkur's activity has also been affected by earthquakes, although to a lesser extent than the Great Geysir. There are around thirty much smaller geysers and hot pools in the area, including one called Litli Geysir ('Little Geysir').
Until 1894, the Geysir area was owned by a local farmer. In that year the area was sold to James Craig (later Lord Craigavon), a whiskey distiller from Ulster and a future Prime Minister of Northern Ireland. Initially, he erected large fences around the site and an entrance fee was charged for visitors wishing to view the geysers. The following year, however, Craig appeared to tire of his project and gave the area as a present to a friend, E. Craig, who dropped the entrance fees. Later Craig's nephew Hugh Rogers inherited the site. In 1935, he sold the site to film director Sigurður Jónasson who subsequently donated it to the Icelandic people in perpetuity.Read more
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 2:10 AM
- 🌧 37 °F
- Altitude: 459 ft
IcelandSilfra64°15’19” N 21°7’42” W
Rekjavik - Day 6 - Thingvellir Nat’l Prk

So day six was chocked full of sightseeing. The overall tour is called the Golden Circle Tour, the final leg are the baths at the Blue Lagoon. In between are a lot of items. Due to the limitation for pictures in a single footprint, we’re are going to break this day into multiple sections, this one is dedicated to Thingvellir National Park.
Thingvellir National Park is hallowed ground where Icelandic forbearers found the oldest parliament and commonwealth in 930. It remained the gathering place for assemblies from 930 to 1798. After the settling of Iceland starting in 870, the country became a collection of different entities headed by their own Chieftains. Eventually there would be 13 and the country grew to be somewhat unruly. Recognizing the fact that they needed some sort of common understanding, the gathered in Thingvellir and created their parliament.
When the parliament was in session in the high summer during the first centuries of its existence Thingvellir turned into a carnival where people from all over the country would dance, drink, trade, gossip, eat and be merry in every way. Except of course when they were fighting. Many young people would find their life partners at this gathering. It is well documented that people would do whatever they could to get to Thingvellir and to the 13 regional parliaments which were held during spring and autumn. After all, Iceland was a rural society with bad communications where you spend long winters holed up with just a few familiar faces. Meeting new people and getting drunk with them seemed to be just the ticket.
17 days long trip to go to the party of the year? No problem
Never mind you had to spend up to 17 days traveling on horseback or on foot to get to the festivities. The time to get there could be shorter based on location from Thingvellir and of course the weather. This venue for the highest parliament in the land was selected to be as central as possible. Its southern location ensured good weather. The river running next to it was diverted for easy access to fresh water and the fields were perfect for camping and grazing horses.
THE POOL OF SHAME AND SORROW
There were 70 – 80 executions in Thingvellir from the 17th century onwards. Of those, there are recorded 15 hangings, 30 beheadings, and 18 women who were drowned in the so-called “Drowning Pool” which was where the bridge across the river is now. It is the only place of execution which is marked by a memorial plaque but there are also places at Thingvellir with self-explanatory names such as Gallows Rock (Gálgaklettur), Scaffold beach (Gálgaeyri), and Burning gap (Brennugjá). The treatment of the innocent and often abused women executed at Thingvellir is truly a stain on Icelandic history.
Thingvellir is also where the Mid-Atlantic Ridge Tectonic Plate Boundary (scientists call this type of plate a divergent boundary) of North American and Europe are slowing moving apart.
Plate Tectonics explains what happens as the North American and Eurasian Plates pull away from each other; new crust is formed from erupted magma along either side of the ridge. As with other divergent boundaries, eventually a rift forms. When this occurs, the Icelandic land mass is going to separate, with water from the Atlantic Ocean filling in this widening gap and splitting the country in two. (There is a picture of the divide below)
Live Science describes the Mid-Atlantic Ridge as a volcanic seam thousands of miles long where tectonic plates meet. At multiple points, magma erupts from deep inside the Earth and creates new crust, pushing the tectonic plates apart. All such volcanic seams are at the bottom of the ocean except for the portion of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge present in Iceland, the only place where it can be seen on land.
Iceland offers scientists a unique opportunity to research the processes that occur on submerged mid-ocean ridges. The ridge also provides a natural laboratory for the study of plate tectonics and geothermal energy.
Thingvellir is also features Thingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland.Read more
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- Day 8
- Monday, November 7, 2022 at 9:17 PM
- ☁️ 41 °F
- Altitude: 43 ft
IcelandÍslenska Óperan64°8’47” N 21°55’60” W
Reykjavik and Christmas

Since we are getting close to Christmas, I will tell you how the Icelanders celebrate the holiday. They don’t have a Santa equivalent. What they have are the Yule Lads. Now there are two versions of the story, one very Disney (mostly) and one very Grimm’s fairy tale. First the Disney version:
For the 13 days before Christmas, the lads visit every home, the children leave their shoes in the window, if they have been nice, they will get a gift, if the children have been bad, the lads leave them a rotten potato. Of course a rotten potato could kill you so be careful…
Now the Grimm’s fairy tale version:
In this version, the Yule lads and their family have a mission that is less than ideal for the modern Christmas spirit. First the Yule lads are the offspring of two trolls, Gryla and Leppaludi. They travel from the mountains on Christmas Eve and visit the towns population. They make loud noises, steal candles and eat all the yogurt, no mention of gifts from this group.
It get’s worse….
The parents are a little more sinister, they eat the naughty children. Worst of all is the family pet (a cat of course, sorry you cat lovers). In this tale, the cat ate the poor (good or bad), the basis for determining “poor” was clothing. If someone did not get new clothes for Christmas, they are fair game and the cat would eat them.
Recommendation here: At least give everyone in your family a new pair of socks….Read more
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- Day 8
- Monday, November 7, 2022 at 4:28 PM
- ☁️ 41 °F
- Altitude: 30 ft
IcelandHafnarhus Art Museum64°8’56” N 21°56’29” W
Rekjavik - Day Five Just Hanging Out

So it’s day five and Sheri and I decided to just hang out for the day. We got up and went and had coffee at Te and Kaffi, then did a little shopping for ourselves and others. Won’t list them here since there are surprises.
Sheri found the Aurora Museum which is dedicated to the Northern Lights. I wish we had known of this exhibit before we went on the tour as it was very helpful and informative (although our guide Tony did cover some of the items from this tour). Following is how an Aurora is created:
The Sun sends us more than heat and light; it sends lots of other energy and small particles our way. The protective magnetic field around Earth shields us from most of the energy and particles, and we don't even notice them.
But the Sun doesn't send the same amount of energy all the time. There is a constant streaming solar wind and there are also solar storms. During one kind of solar storm called a coronal mass ejection, the Sun burps out a huge bubble of electrified gas that can travel through space at 80 million miles per hour. Within 8 hours, these storms blow past Mars, after 16 hours it passes through Venus, next up Earth.
When a solar storm passes earth, some of the energy and small particles can travel down the magnetic field lines at the north and south poles into Earth's atmosphere. Creating the Northern (Aurora Borealis) and Southern Lights (Australis Borealis).
There, the particles interact with gases in our atmosphere resulting in beautiful displays of light in the sky. Oxygen gives off green and red light. Nitrogen glows blue and purple.
Following are how some cultures view the arrival of the Northern Lights:
In the far north of North America the Inuit Indians believed the lights were shadows of deceased relatives and friends. When the Northern lights appeared it the deceased marching and dancing around to remind them of their presence.
Russian Folklore associates the lights with the fire dragon Ognennty Zmey. It seems that if you left your wife alone too long, the fire dragon came and she would end up pregnant. (Only the Russians would come up with this one).
In China’s folklore, the Aurora Borealis has been linked to fertility and child birth. In Chinese culture it is believed a child conceived under the Northern Lights will be blessed with good fortune, beauty and intellect.
In Norse history, the Northern Lights have many versions of their effect. One story is that the lights reflected on the shields of the Valkyries racing across the sky to their final resting place in Valhalla. The Northern Lights are also linked to dead women, especially dead virgins and children who were killed by accident or still born.
When the lights were dancing around, the spirits were happy, if not then the people would whistle or clap their hands to cheer up them up.
For Iceland, the Northern Lights supposedly lighten the pain of women in childbirth. However, if the mother stares into the Northern Lights during childbirth, the child will be cross eyed, definitely a double edged sword. If the Northern Lights are red, it portends bad news.
The Finns believed that the Northern Lights were created by the arctic fox running around in the dark on winter nights. Their tail would sweep across the snow creating big sparks which were the Northern Lights.
From the Aurora Museum, it was time for lunch. I had fish and chips along with a fish soup at the Reykjavik Fish Company. Excellent food. Sheri on the other hand wanted a hot dog….
The dog came with brown ketchup, and a yellow…ish mustard (it’s regular mustard mixed with remoulade) and a crunchy onion spread. Sheri liked most of it (especially the crunchy onions) but the mustard was sweet. Next time NO mustard.
Then we roamed around for a while and Sheri found her favorite place so far. A local coffee shop and bookstore, where we had Illy coffee and Swiss chocolate and perused some to the books.
Then back to the apartment. Only sour note of the day was the dinner. There is a Vietnamese Pho Soup chain here, should you come, avoid it.
The stone and small brown building in the second picture, appears to be where the Russian Orthodox Church will be built at some time in the future. The third picture is just a street that Sheri liked the looks of. The bird was hanging around the hot dog stand and was more interesting looking than that stand itself or so we thought. Some interesting facts about that little stand:
It’s name is Baejarins Beaty Pylsur
It’s been located in and around the Reykjavik harbor since 1937
It has made it onto the list of most popular restaurants in Reykjavik and is now a major tourist attraction.
It reached global fame when President Bill Clinton at there in 2004.Read more
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- Day 7
- Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 10:00 PM
- 🌙 37 °F
- Altitude: 56 ft
IcelandArnarhóll64°8’47” N 21°55’37” W
Reykjavik - Day 3 - Chasing the Lights

After ending our walking tour, a quick nap and that delicious Indian Dinner, it was time to “Chase the Northern Lights”. The operative word here is “Chase”. The lights don’t show all the time, they don’t show all over and they can be very shy. You generally have to be well away from the city or any other lights for them to be viewable by the naked eye.
We started this journey at 8:30 at night, getting picked up by our apartment and then heading north into the darkness. Since the lights are not always viewable by the naked eye, the guide will take a camera outside and see if he can see the lights through the camera. If they can, then you stay around in hopes that they become brighter and your eyes adjust so you can see them without the camera.
The night was pretty clear, so when a thin line of what seemed to be clouds appeared on the horizon, the guide got very excited (he was a very energetic person) and off we went to see if we had found the lights. We had, but you could only see them via camera shots. We waited around for an hour or so for them to become more visible, but they got shy and went away. The group had hot Chocolate (delish) and some sort of doughnut that grandmothers would give you when you came to visit, based on the taste of what we were given, grandma would be very lonely.
We then traveled further north to the Fjord to see if they would visit us there. Unfortunately, not, but we got a great nighttime shot of the Fjord (silver lining so to speak).
When you look at the pictures, the green strip you see are the Northern Lights. It was a very clear night, so we got some shots of the moon and stars along with the lights. Although some of the photos look like daytime shots, most were taken after 10PM. Sheri has a good camera and the new iPhones take some amazing pictures.
The whole scene sort of reminded me of the movie Twister with Helen Hunt and Bill Pullman as tornado chasers. They kept calling other chasers to see where the tornados were. In our version (a lot safer) the guides called each other throughout the area to see if they were seeing the lights. If they were, then I suppose everyone would converge onto that area, but everyone was having the same experience on this night.
We ended the chase around 1AM and headed back. On Wednesday night, Sheri will try again. As for me, I’m just going to relax and have a cocktail and wait for the pictures.Read more
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- Day 7
- Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 43 °F
- Altitude: 56 ft
IcelandArnarhóll64°8’47” N 21°55’37” W
Reykjavik - Day Three Walking Tour

Day three we resumed our walking tour around Reykjavik. First up, the Catholic Basilica of Reykjavik. The architecture is very similar to the churches we saw in NYC and quite beautiful. Then it was off to City Hall. A very cold concrete building, but it was surrounded by an amazing pond. People were out feeding the ducks, geese and swans. Sheri decided that the man with the concrete head was more interesting than the city hall building itself. However, she did take a picture of the pond.
From there we headed down to the parliament building. There are 63 elected parliamentarians, 30 of which are women. Keeping in mind a that Iceland had the first democratically elected female president as well as the first gay woman prime minister, this is a very open and egalitarian society. There was a protest in the part on behalf of refugees while we were there. It was the first time we had seen any policemen in the city since we arrived.
Next stop was the statue of Ingolfur Arnanson who, as I mentioned earlier, was the person to first settle Reykjavik. Ingolfur is standing by his high seated pillar decorated with a Dragon’s Head indicating his chieftain status. You can’t see it clearly, but part of the monument is a statue to Odin the Norse pagan god of war with his two ravens, Hugin and Munin. Also on the Odin statue is the mythological tree Yggdrasil (an immense and sacred tree around which all else exists including the 9 worlds of Norse mythology) you would also see the worm of Midgard (this is not part of the Marvel universe and Sheri said it must not be important so really who cares) and Odin’s eight legged horse Slepnir.
Finished the afternoon walk with a cappuccino and a latte at Cafe Babalu.
Onto some shopping as I needed nice warm socks for tonights adventure to the Northern Lights. See the next footprint for that review. Before the Northern Lights however, dinner at an Indian restaurant. Great food. Both Sheri and I have noticed the quantity of food you get here. Not sure if the cold means you need to eat more, but man o geez do you get a lot of food.Read more
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- Day 6
- Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 41 °F
- Altitude: 56 ft
IcelandArnarhóll64°8’47” N 21°55’37” W
Reykjavik - Day Two - Walking Tour

After finishing up at the Hallgrimskirkj we headed out for the rest of our walking tour. It was down to the waterfront and onto the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Center, a beautiful glass structure on the waterfront. Sheri and I walked around there for a while, and then had lunch at the cafe. We munched on crispy oyster mushrooms, fried feta cheese and lamb tartar. Lots of fried food here in Iceland….I think it’s a thing. In any case it was pretty tasty, not sure I would try fried Feta again though.
Opened in 2011 the center is the home to four music companies, the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, the Icelandic Opera, Reykjavik Big Band and Maximus Musicus. Construction started in 2007, but the financial crisis stopped the building from moving forward. However, in 2008, the city decided to fully fund the project and for 2 years this was the only construction project in existence in Iceland. In 2013, the building won the European Union’s Mies van der Rohe award for contemporary architecture.
We continued our walk through one of the oldest neighborhoods and noticed something unusual about all the homes. Our virtual tour guide offered an explanation. The Great Fire of Reykjavik, started on the 27th of April, 1915 at 3 AM. Guests were just leaving a wedding celebration at Hotel Reykjavík on Austurstræti when they noticed a fire in the hotel. This fire became the biggest and most destructive fire that Reykjavík has ever seen. In a matter of hours, Hotel Reykjavík burned to the ground and then spread to neighbouring buildings, consuming a total of ten houses including Landsbankinn and Edinborg and partially burning others. Nearly all these buildings were made from timber. Sadly, two people died: a worker from the hotel who was asleep in his room at the time and a gentleman trying to save his house.
After this fire, all houses and structures had to be built with fire resistant materials. This is when homes and businesses in Reykjavik started to have metal siding on all structures which exists to this day. They also retrofitted existing homes including the first house built in Reykjavik which is where we ended our day.
The house over the years, was a home, a grocery store, hair salon, the home of the first catholic bishop of Iceland, restaurant and today, a museum. You enter the museum through this small very unimposing structure and you just sort of meander around not realizing how huge the museum is, I’m still not sure how they put all of the stuff in this small place.Read more
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- Day 6
- Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 10:00 AM
- ⛅ 39 °F
- Altitude: 56 ft
IcelandArnarhóll64°8’46” N 21°55’38” W
Reykjavik - Day Two - The Hallgrimskirkj

This is the Lutheran Parish church of Reykjavik. It was finished in 1986 and took 41 years to build. It is the tallest church in Iceland and one of the tallest buildings standing at 244 feet tall. It was built in the expressionist style fashioned after the Grundtvig’s Church in Denmark and the Kirche am Hohenzollernplatz in Berlin. The original design was not quite as high but church fathers wanted it to outshine Landakotskirkja, the Catholic Cathedral of Iceland. There’s some sort of envy going on here, just not sure which kind. The organ inside the church has 102 ranks, 72 stops and 5275 pipes.
It reminds me a little of the Discovery space rocket.
The church is named after the poet Halligrimur Petursson the author of ‘The Passions’.
A little about the religious journey of Icelanders:
From the first settlement until 1000, the religious political organization was defined as pagan and anti-monarchist. The Icelanders followed Scandinavian norms and built temples enshrining images of the gods like Thor and Odin. The religion was named Godard or Asatru (Truth of the gods). Icelanders worshipped local spirits, but Thor was the primary deity.
Starting in 995, Catholics attempted to convert Icelanders to Christianity, however they would not go easy. Attempts in 995 and 997 failed. During this time those attempting to convert the country by destroying temples and shrines (in many cases violently) drove the Althing (Icelandic parliament) to outlaw Christianity in Iceland. Iceland was under Norway’s rule and King Olaf Tryggvason (a Catholic monarch) suspended Iceland’s trade with Norway, their biggest trading partner and threatened to kill all Icelanders in Norway (what a guy).
Well I guess that is one philosophy, if at first you don’t succeed try, try again, and if that doesn’t work, just kill ‘em. I guess they should be grateful they were spared that whole Crusade thing.
In Iceland, civil war was about to break out so the Althing began mediation appointing Thorgeir Thokelsson, trusted by both the pagan and Christian factions, to decide the fate of religion in Iceland. He contemplated for one day and one night, and decided that in order to keep the peace, the country had to be united under on religion and that would be Christianity. However, pagans were allowed to practice sacrifice to the old gods as long as no one saw them…..a few years later this practice was abolished all together. In 1550, under Danish rule, the state religion was officially changed from Catholic to Lutheranism.
Just a note: 80 Percent of all Icelanders still believe in Elves (Huldufolk - hidden people) so maybe that Nordic paganism isn’t entirely gone yet.
There are 13 different types of Elves. They are territorial so don’t mess with them. Elves are just like us; they have homes, raise live stock, pick berries, etc. Elves live primarily in the rocks and environmentalists fight projects they believe will disturb or displace Elves. There is so much concern about Elves that the Iceland Road and Coastal Admin had to create a five page standard reply for inquires regarding disturbing Elven environments. It’s customary to leave food for Elves on Christmas Eve.Read more
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- Day 5
- Friday, November 4, 2022 at 1:41 PM
- ⛅ 61 °F
- Altitude: 30 ft
United StatesJohn F. Kennedy International Airport40°39’2” N 73°47’1” W
On our way to Iceland!

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- Day 4
- Thursday, November 3, 2022 at 10:32 AM
- ☀️ 59 °F
- Altitude: 98 ft
United StatesJackie Robinson Playground40°39’53” N 73°57’44” W
Brooklyn Botanic Gardens

While Bill was visiting a friend in Boston, I took a trip to the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens and the Brooklyn Museum. I spent hours wandering around enjoying natural beauty and then man-made beauty. I spent a great deal of time with the Assyrians and the Egyptians because I’ve been taking an Art History course at Flagler. Pictures in books are great, but seeing the items in person is so much better.Read more
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- Day 3
- Wednesday, November 2, 2022 at 8:00 PM
- 🌙 63 °F
- Altitude: 75 ft
United StatesWeinburg Triangle40°41’45” N 73°59’1” W
Dinner and Funny Girl

Our final show in New York - Funny girl with Lea Michele. First, dinner at a Cuban restaurant, Victor’s Cafe. Started out with Champaign Sangria. Sheri and I agreed they were soooo good we had to order another round. Then some guacamole and Plantain chips (yum), Ropa Viejo for me and Lechon Asado (Roast Pork) for Sheri. The food was delicious and this place is highly recommended.
Then on to the show at the August Wilson Theatre, a very small venue but wow what a show she put on. Somehow Sheri scored 5th row center seats, so we were up close and personal. Overall the entire cast was good, but Lea hit it out of the park. Three standing ovations during and at the end of the show. Just an amazing performance, if you get the chance, go and be prepared for one of the best Broadway has to offer at this time.Read more
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- Day 3
- Wednesday, November 2, 2022 at 10:50 AM
- ☀️ 63 °F
- Altitude: 7 ft
United StatesMeatpacking District40°44’31” N 74°0’33” W
Tooling around Chelsea

First Up, breakfast. Went to the Chelsea Marketplace and had breakfast at Friedman’s. Nice place, good service. My tea glass was the size of toy set tea cup, but good. Sheri got a coffee cup you could swim in, not sure why the tea glass was tiny, maybe they are pro coffee. We’ll see happens after the election (just a random thought no meaning here…)
Off to the man-made green space built on huge, giant cement planters. It was pretty amazing and provided views of the Hudson which were beautiful. Took a bunch of pictures which you will see in the grouping.
Along the way, we found the land of misfit buildings:
Two buildings were built side by side at angles leaning towards each other (in SF this would NOT be a good thing. Besides SF likes their buildings to lean on their own not because they were designed that way. It’s more exciting to see if they’ll survive that next earthquake. (For those of you not from SF you may not get the reference…they built a new high rise in SF on landfill and then it started leaning, so far by two inches.)
Next to the leaning buildings, was a structure of all glass, but shaded white, with clear space in between each floor for what I assume are the windows. It looks like it was snowing outside and someone wiped away the snow so they could see out.
Next to the snow building was one that looked like brown bubble wrap, with each bubble being a condo.
Next to the brown bubble wrap building was a building that looked like a jigsaw puzzle, but not one that was already put together, just pieces laying around.
Down from the jigsaw puzzle building was this sleek beautiful high rise. With a suspended outside deck at least 40 stories up. Not one I would be spending much time on… Sheri, however, was all for bungee jumping from there.
Being good coffee drinkers, we went to the Starbucks Roasters and had tea. Okay, whatever. We met a few ladies from Houston who were there on a shopping spree and seemed to be having a very good time spending their money.
As we then made our way back to the subway, we found a CVS built in a former bank building. The interior is amazing and a bit disorienting.Read more
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- Day 2
- Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 6:48 PM
- 🌙 63 °F
- Altitude: 164 ft
United StatesRoxy Theatre (historic)40°45’41” N 73°59’1” W
Dinner and Theatre

First live Broadway show of the trip. We started with dinner at Le Grande Boucherie. I love a good cassoulet and the duck confit and sausage were excellent. Sheri had mushroom Ravioli (yes I did taste even though it is NOT Keto Friendly) but I’m on vacation! I’ve decided that all of New York only has one VERY expensive price for dinner. Drinks still $25 a shot…
Onto the show. With Hugh Jackman and Sutton Foster it has to be good and Music Man was terrific. The chemistry between those two was amazing. It fun and funny, kind of silly and goofy but just an overall enjoyable play. It was Broadway Equity Fights AIDS night, so I gave donation at the end of the show.
Back to the hotel and time for sleep. Tomorrow starts a new day and we are off the Chelsea to explore and then another Broadway show.Read more
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- Day 2
- Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 11:50 AM
- ☁️ 61 °F
- Altitude: 167 ft
United StatesSaint Ann's and the Holy Trinity Church40°41’41” N 73°59’33” W
Touring Brooklyn Heights

We spent a few hours walking around and getting lost in the Heights neighborhood of Brooklyn. Beautiful area with tree-lined streets covered in colorful leaves this time of year since it is Autumn. You can see in some of the photos in this group the beautiful colors of Fall.
We made our way down to the promenade which was built because the people living in the heights did not want an expressway in their area causing traffic congestion and noise, and of course would not be esthetically pleasing (geez people with money). I guess we should be glad they got their way, because the promenade is really an oasis on the waterfront with amazing views back to Manhattan. It also seems to be a place where dog walkers gather (and there were a lot of them). Not sure how that guy with all those dogs keeps them straight, behaved and moving forward. I have enough trouble with Buster, can’t image 20 of him at one time…
The east coast churches are beautiful inside and out due to their age and the architecture types they were built under. I find them so much more interesting than the modern churches today.
During our Brooklyn Heights Tour, we passed 70 Willow Street. Truman Capote lived in the bottom floor for ten years (1955-1965). While there, he wrote 'Breakfast at Tiffany’s' and 'In Cold Blood', his most famous works. The house was owned by his friend Oliver Smith, who he got drunk on martini’s one night and convinced him he should live there. He wrote a minor work about his time in Brooklyn called 'House On The Heights', which opens with “I live in Brooklyn by choice”.
When Oliver would go away, Truman would throw parties at the residence and tell everyone he owned the house.Read more
TravelerThank you Bill and Sheri for sharing all your wonderful adventures and the great descriptions of your tours and restaurants. Made me feel I was almost with you for all of it!!!