• Jess Want
  • Dan Want
июн. – сент. 2022

Southeast Asia 2022

A backpacking adventure by Dan & Jess Читать далее
  • Kuang Si Falls, Luang Prabang, Laos

    22 июля 2022 г., Лаос ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We arrived at Luang Prabang yesterday afternoon following a short flight from Bangkok. Luang Prabang is a town in central Laos located in the mountainous region along the Mekong river. So far, it looks to have a very friendly feel although there are few tourists around.

    After receiving some tips from the hotel owner, we dropped our backpacks in the room and went straight out to the local night market for drinks and dinner. No surprise that the food is similar to Thai which we've both loved!

    The next day we hired a scooter (we'd missed this in Bangkok) to rode to Kuang Si Falls, a well-known waterfall and arguably one of Laos' most popular attractions. The 45 minute ride along country roads surrounded by miles of farmland and jungle views was beautiful. Unfortunately we were unlucky enough to experience a 5 minute torrential downpour en route, but thankfully the sun came out soon after and dried us off by the time we arrived.

    As a geography teacher, Jess has been looking forward to this for some time. Kuang Si Falls isn't just one waterfall, but a series of stepped waterfalls that we could walk along side following a jungle like path towards the top. Lets just say there was one very happy geographer, topped off by the beautiful sun shining on the many plunge pools glistening an amazing turquoise blue colour. It really was a tropical paradise! Wanting to explore more before taking a dip, we walked up to the top of the waterfall overlooking the mountains although the views were slightly obstructed by trees unfortunately. Once back at the bottom of the waterfall, we decided to take the plunge and after getting over the initial shock of the cool water, we enjoyed a swim and a climb on the rocks.

    Heading back to Luang Prabang by scooter we enjoyed seeing more of rural Laos. This is one of the main reasons we've loved riding a scooter as it has given us the opportunity to see places beyond the main attractions. We saw so many rice fields with workers and people transporting food on their motorbikes as well as the occasional buffalo or cow on the road.

    Similar to yesterday evening, we returned to the night market to try more local food and wandered the stalls. A brilliant first day exploring Laos!
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  • Exploring Luang Prabang

    23 июля 2022 г., Лаос ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We explored the Old Town of Luang Prabang today. Every morning at sunrise a religious alms giving ceremony takes place along what later becomes the main night market street. The old town mainly consists of a long road lined with lots of cafes, shops and a few temples. It’s the kind of area you could enjoy wandering around with a cool drink in hand so we got one of the largest fruit shakes we'd ever seen costing only 80p. As we strolled along the Old Town, it became apparent some businesses had not survived the pandemic. Luang Prabang was certainly less touristy than other places we've visited, perhaps due to the country having only recently opened their borders after the pandemic. Speaking with locals, Luang Prabang is used to having a few more tourists, and we hope for the sake of the town's economy and people, tourists do return over the next few months.

    Off the main road were smaller backstreet markets, shops and temples including the Grand Palace which is now a museum. Thinking we had the entire palace grounds to ourselves, we entered but later discovered the grounds were actually closed for two hours in the afternoon whilst we were walking around. We must have entered unintentionally through a back door.

    In the afternoon after doing a bit of research, we thought we'd check out Nahm Dong Park. This involved a pretty rough and rocky road for the last few miles - not a comfortable ride on a little scooter with virtually no suspension!
    Upon arrival, the grounds looked as if they hadn’t had footfall since pre covid. The park included a treetop walk, waterfalls, stunning views, unoccupied buildings and an empty cafe. There were also areas for bamboo weaving classes, a zip line as well as a viewpoint cafe, but these were all closed. It was clear this attraction had not been opened for a couple of years. We were still really glad to have visited as we enjoyed the treetop walks and the viewpoint gave an amazing view across the jungle landscape ahead. As we reached the top of the viewpoint, we were greeted by a group of Laotian teenage girls, seemingly quite excited and giggly. Then one girl approached Jess pointing to her phone. Originally, Jess thought she was offering to take a picture of us, but then we realised she actually wanted a picture with Jess. All of a sudden the entire group of teenagers crowded around Jess for a photograph. We could only assume this was because Jess is fair skinned with blonde hair. The group seemed rather excited by the picture and we suspect this photograph will end up on social media somewhere.

    We finished the evening with a walk up Mount Phousi, the central peak seen from all over Luang Prabang, to watch the sunset over the surrounding mountains. After an hour at the top we returned and ate at the night market playing live music on stage this time. Off to Vang Vieng next, known for its adventure activities.
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  • The Adventure Hub of Laos, Vang Vieng

    24 июля 2022 г., Лаос ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    The past 4 days in Vang Vieng, Laos’ adventure hub, has been filled with all sorts of activities including buggying, kayaking, cave walking and cave tubing, viewpoint trekking, ziplining, lagoon swimming and of course scooting around.

    The town is connected to Luang Prabang via the newly built Chinese railway, a much quicker route than the 4-5 hour mountain bus drive before 2020. The train took less than one hour and was far more comfortable than any European train let alone a bus. On first impressions, the town has a wild western feel with its bars set against a mountainous backdrop along a main dusty street.

    In the afternoon after arriving in the town, we hired a scooter and took a ride to the west side of Vang Vieng into the valley. Here the roads gradually turned into dusty dirt tracks with small street side villages scattered around surrounded by miles of rice fields. We stopped off at the first blue lagoon to have a swim. Unfortunately, we found the blue lagoon rather underwhelming and far too crowded for our liking with lots of children which ruined the initial idea of a tranquil lagoon experience.

    The next day we rented kayaks and a personal guide who took us down the fast flowing Mekong river, stopping off at two caves along the way. The first was a walk through a lit up cave. The second cave was partly filled with water so we each took a tube and pulled ourselves inside along a line. The cave quickly became dark, pitch black in fact. We walked in further with our torches, eventually seeing bats hanging and flying around. Afterwards we kayaked back, grabbed some lunch and went to pick up our buggy for the afternoon. We had the buggy for four hours and within that timeframe we explored more dirt tracks surrounded by farmland and mountains, a truly beautiful backdrop. We drove far into the valley, really off road stopping at Blue Lagoon 5, a lagoon which tourists rarely venture out to considering how far off road it is. We also visited and enjoyed a dip at Blue Lagoon 2. Both blue lagoons were beautiful and thankfully had far fewer people so we could enjoy them in peace.

    One thing we've noticed in Laos are the roads which are tarmacked in town however they transition into gravel dirt tracks (without any road markings) as you go further into the valley. Along the dirt tracks we came across a number of rural villages, surrounded by rice fields. The area was clearly reliant on agriculture as there were lots of cows to contend with on the tracks. The cows didn’t seem bothered by motorbikes or buggies, so we had to manoeuvre around them to get past. As we drove past the villages, there were lots of kids playing and happily waving to us, some also signalling to join in a round of 'rock paper scissors' whilst driving! Another child, perhaps the age of 7 or 8 years old, was walking a large bull with massive horns by a rope.

    We've been super lucky with the weather, no rain as of yet. Vang Vieng is a place of beauty, but as with many other places, it is far quieter than normal and you can see the impact of this on the town itself.
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  • Vang Vieng Views

    25 июля 2022 г., Лаос ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    The region is split by the main town to the east of the river and a huge valley to the west just begging you to drive in and explore. The further into the valley you go, the more remote it becomes until the tracks eventually stop and you reached the end. Because of this, the views really are stunning with mountains enclosing you from all sides almost like you've been placed inside a bowl.

    We tried zip lining through the treetops with the longest zip line being 380m it was great fun although for each zipline down was a hot walk back up. As it was extremely hot we decided to go back to one of the lagoons and cool off. Hoping to stay out for sunset we were forced to change plans as dark clouds started to form. 10 minutes later lightning was seen not too far away. Rushing back we just missed the storm, although 30 minutes later it passed so we left for drinks and dinner that evening.

    The following day we went hiking up more viewpoints. No surprise that by the time we reached the top we were incredibly hot and sweaty. Despite this and as expected, the views were beautiful and we even found the odd motorbike at the top of some of the peaks - who knew why but it certainly made a great picture. In the evening we watched the sunset (amongst a few clouds) and then enjoyed dinner and drinks in a quirky bar where we had great food, actual cider and played pool.

    Vang Vieng is an interesting little place full of things to do and beautiful scenery. We love a good adventure activity and our visit has been made even better with sunshine throughout the whole stay. Now we head, by train, to the capital Vientiane for a short stay before flying out to Vietnam next.
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  • Vientiane, Laos

    28 июля 2022 г., Лаос ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Travelling again by the Chinese-Laos train, we arrived in Vientiane this afternoon. This was only a stopover in time for our flight to Hanoi tomorrow morning. We just about survived the manic tuk tuk taxi drive from the train station to our hotel, only cutting up most cars and crossing multiple lanes on every roundabout...

    We were hoping to have a bit of time to explore the city however our hotel check-in was far from smooth. 30 minutes after walking in and the poorest service and organisation we've ever experienced, we came to the conclusion the hotel did not have a room for us despite our booking confirmation. We were unable to communicate with the receptionist at all, who displayed nothing but confusion as to why we had arrived at the hotel and spent the majority of the attempted conversation staring blankly at us and their computer screen or fiddling with random room keys. Words, gestures, even google translate would not work. After 30 minutes of attempting everything, we could not gain clarity on the situation so finally made the decision to leave. Upon turning to leave we heard the word ‘sorry’ from behind, the receptionist's first word. In excitement and seeing potential, we turned back in an attempt to rectify the situation, but without success as we were met with further silence and fumbling. We came away unsure whether the receptionist was drunk, high or simply incapable, but it was an experience and a painful one to say the least.

    Not far away we found another room for the night. After finally checking in, we made it out for a late afternoon mooch to Patuxai Victory Gate, whilst also spotting perhaps the worst set of electrical cables we've seen so far (and that is saying something!)

    We then spent the evening catching up on Vietnam planning ready for our flight in the morning. Very excited to begin our travels to Vietnam tomorrow!
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  • Golden Hanoi, Vietnam

    29 июля 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    And so the next leg of our journey begins in Vietnam! Before we left for Asia, we both agreed somewhere along the way we’d treat ourselves to a little bit of luxury. As it turns out this would be in Hanoi so we checked in to a rather fancy 5-star hotel with a rooftop infinity pool. For a five star hotel, it was not expensive at all as 1- it's in Vietnam and 2- hotel costs are below usual rates due to Vietnam's recent re-opening. The hotel was gold plated everywhere including the exterior. The room was lovely and the bathroom was something else with a gold plated toilet, bath and even basin - pretty nice although a little garish!

    So far Hanoi looks to be a busy place with scooters absolutely everywhere and cars honking 24/7. To be honest the roads are just ridiculous and good luck trying to cross the road, you literally have take one look and go. A tip is to step out and keep walking in a straight line and never dodge traffic or change pace allowing the motorbikes to weave around you as you cross.

    We wandered the streets of Hanoi, stopping for a mid afternoon lunch to sample the Vietnamese cuisine Pho-Bo. Very yummy! We then went to the famous train street consisting of shops, bars and restaurants situated literally on the side of a train track. Although we didn't see the train, at its sight shop keepers uplift their items laid across the tracks and everyone scrambles to the side making way for the train. We suspect it would be chaos - what health and safety?

    Later on we returned to the hotel to get on top of upcoming bookings before making our way to the Old Quarter, Hanoi’s area for night life. We heard the city has a slow start but ramps up in the evening and so far so true. We took one scooter taxi between us, both of us pillions this time, and what an experience that was! We thought Bangkok was bad enough but Hanoi is something else as even we wouldn’t ride here. The Old Quarter was all hustle and bustle along its narrow streets with music, performances and bars at every sight and lots of people sitting outside on plastic chairs enjoying food and drink. We enjoyed some happy hour drinks before finally calling it a night (or morning).
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  • Hustle & Bustle of Hanoi

    30 июля 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    What a hectic city. Unlike Bangkok, Hanoi is a city that is difficult to understand. The streets are manic, as is the traffic. There are very limited pavements so people walk along the road weaving through the many oncoming scooters. It's not a city to relax in. Let's just say we're very pleased to have a 5-star hotel to come back to away from the hustle and bustle streets!

    We've spent the last few days exploring the city including lakes, markets, the National Military Museum and the Chinese inspired Temple of Literature (Hanoi’s first ‘university’). The Temple of Literature was an example of preserved traditional Vietnamese architecture, dedicated to the top academics. This was Vietnam’s first university and is now one of the most popular historical sites in the city. The area is split into a series of courtyards, all designed in specific ways with underlying meanings.

    We also tried Hanoi’s famous egg coffee and although we're not fussed about regular coffee, we were told this shouldn't be compared. Essentially they whip egg yolks and sugar and mix into coffee or hot chocolate. Dan ordered the egg coffee whilst Jess tried the egg chocolate. The coffee was very thick and creamy and the egg yolk is supposed to remove the coffee's bitterness. The egg chocolate was surprisingly nice although Dan couldn't say the same about the coffee! We enjoyed wandering the streets of Hanoi's Old Quarter, notably very French inspired, although this was more evident during the day before the chaos ensues at night. It's very common to see entire streets dedicated to selling the same or similar items and often pretty unusual ones. For example we've seen streets selling nothing but fans, then another selling hot pots, others selling bespoke motorbike seat covers, sewing machines, pet bedding, lamps and sunglasses (Dan bought a pair). Slightly odd, but we guess this strategy must work for them!

    To finish off our stay, we wandered around the Weekend Market. The area surrounding the market and Hoen Kiem lake was buzzing with people and had a brilliant atmosphere.

    We'd planned to move on to Sapa next, a high altitude remote northern village amongst beautiful rice terraces and mountain scenery. With difficulty travelling there given the limited sleeper trains in low season, in addition to the high likelihood of fog at altitude this time of year, we've decided to give Sapa a miss. Although it will be a real shame to miss the Vietnamese countryside, the timing just isn't right so instead we are going straight to Ha Long Bay. Having gotten the luxury bug, we decided to book onto a 5-star 2 night/ 3 day cruise around Ha Long Bay. "Looking forward to this one!" mentioned Dan.
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  • Jess said Yes

    1 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    After taking a minibus from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay this morning, we hiked up to a viewpoint on Poem Mountain this afternoon. The viewpoint was officially closed by the government a few years ago but after reading some travel blogs, Dan discovered you could still secretly access this through a locals home. To access the viewpoint, we had to find a small but open blue door residing between two small commercial buildings. Just inside the door was a dog on a short lead. Walking past the dog and up a small set of stairs we were greeted by lots more barking dogs. Dan had read if it looks like you’re in the wrong place, you’re in the right place, as we were literally walking through someone's property. Now alerted by the rather loud and intimidating dogs, we met a lady demanding money to allow access through her house and into her garden leading to the closed path. We eventually negotiated a fee of 300,000 VND and she let us through, pointing to a ladder at the end of her garden. In a bit of a rush due to the aggressive barking dogs, we climbed the ladder, scrambled up rocks and pushed through dense vegetation before finally getting onto the clearly overgrown path. 20-25 minutes later and we arrived at the top to see the most amazing views over Ha Long Bay. The weather was glorious with sunshine and clear blues skies as we looked over Ha Long city and the many rocky islets emerging from the sea.

    Jess: 'And then the unexpected moment came….Dan got down on one knee and asked me to marry him, and of course I said yes! It was the most perfect, beautiful location, made nicer by the fact that we had the whole area to ourselves to enjoy our special moment.'

    Dan: 'There I got down on one knee and asked if Jess would marry me, to which Jess said yes! Despite the dramatic start to the viewpoint, we had the most perfect spot to ourselves all afternoon so we could really enjoy our moment together.'

    Tomorrow, we're heading on a 5-star luxury cruise for 3 days around Ha Long Bay. This will be an amazing way to celebrate our engagement and we really cannot wait for the next few days.
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  • The Boat, Ha Long Bay Cruise

    2 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    To fully explore Ha Long Bay we booked a luxury 3 day, 2 night cruise only a few days ago. We'd left this very last minute and there were various options available in terms of basic, mid range and luxury, however of course many were already fully booked. With a few spaces available on Orchid Luxury Cruises, Dan seemed very keen on this cruise, which now all makes sense... what a way to celebrate our engagement!

    The boat only has 14 cabins, so is not crowded at all and is just lovely. The room is fab, surprisingly spacious and has a view to die for. You can even enjoy a bath looking out onto the water. To top it off, we've also met some lovely people on board.
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  • Ha Long Bay Cruise

    2 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Well we think it’s fair to say Ha Long Bay will always have a special place in our hearts. We've spent the last three days on a cruise exploring the area and wow, this is a breathtakingly beautiful place.

    Cruising around Ha Long Bay was just stunning. A great way to relax and enjoy some time together without having to really think about our next plan or destination. The 3 day trip included a range of excursions and activities, all of which we thoroughly enjoyed. Nevertheless, the highlight for us was simply cruising around enjoying the mesmorising, phenomenal views with one another.

    On the first day we took a trip to the caves. We were given the option to kayak or be rowed in a bamboo boat, so we thought we'd take the lazy option. Bamboo boat it was! We were rowed through a cave, surrounded by beautiful scenery. While bamboo boating we saw a family of langur monkeys climbing across vertical rock faces with babies clinging on to the mothers for dear life.

    Back on the cruise boat, we had some time to relax on the upper deck and in the room. While cruising, we'd frequently see large jellyfish the size of an exercise ball go past or smaller ones with long tentacles. Enjoying some peace on our balcony, we'd be greeted by people in small dinghies approaching the side of the boat waving items such as fizzy drinks, snacks and alcohol for us to purchase. Not a bad idea considering these were cheaper than purchasing them from the bar.

    On the second day of the cruise, we visited Cat Ba Island. Here we saw a small village and learnt about traditional farming techniques used many years ago. Later we kayaked from the boat to a small beach and had an hour to swim and chill. On the way to Cat Ba island Dan took a few photos of the scenery and out of nowhere we all heard a loud splash as everyone rushed to look overboard, seeing nothing but a large ripple in the water. Fortunately and by complete coincidence, Dan happened to take a photo at the perfect moment, capturing a sting ray jumping out of the water just before it landed. This was the only ray we saw.

    On both days we enjoyed stunning sunsets and of course cocktails to match. For Dan's birthday, he was surprised with music and a cake and wasn’t embarrassed in the slightest...!

    The food was amazing albeit a little too much with yesterday’s lunch consisting of 10 different plates followed by 6 courses for dinner; on both nights we were served two mains yet neither main was particularly small. Put it this way, we never went hungry! No surprise we also took advantage of the permanent ‘happy hour’ cocktails.

    The cruise has been simply amazing. It's been wonderful to have some time to relax and not have to worry about how to get to the next place or where or what to eat! On top of that we've been so lucky with the weather - sunshine and blue skies throughout the entire trip. Ha Long Bay is one of the most stunning places we've ever seen. Everywhere we looked we'd see towering islands covered with vegetation, each different to the next. Words and pictures really don’t do Ha Long Bay justice, you have to be here to really appreciate its natural beauty. It was such a perfect way to celebrate (well planned Dan!) and a place that will never be forgotten!

    Next stop.. Da Nang, central Vietnam!
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  • Da Nang

    4 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Yesterday we caught a flight from Haiphong (near Ha Long Bay) to Da Nang. Da Nang is a city located on the east coastline and has miles of beautiful sandy beaches with a Miami like city vibe.

    We arrived late but opted to walk just under an hour from the airport to our hotel, giving us time to take in a bit of the city. Not knowing much about central Vietnamese food, a self proclaimed traditional Da Nang restaurant caught our eye just before crossing the famous Dragon Bridge, so we ate there and the food was delicious. The following morning we woke up to glorious sunshine, so after grabbing some breakfast at a beach bar, we relaxed on My Khe beach for a few hours. My Khe beach was a gorgeous beach; white soft sand, palm trees and clear blue waters, like a warm bath.

    In the afternoon, a thunderstorm interrupted us so we thought we'd check out a 3D art Museum that was really impressive! The museum had many different halls and rooms all filled with different themed 3D art. It was so clever how the 2D artwork came to life in a photograph and we had really good fun taking pictures in all the different scenes.

    This evening we rode to a night market to sample more Vietnamese cuisine. There was a pancake dish called Banh Xeo, however looking like such tourists we had to be shown how to eat the food with rice paper after clearly having no clue… we didn’t even ask, locals could just tell so stepped in to help.

    As we're now back on a scooter we explored the downtown city area near the river and visited the popular Love Bridge and Dragon Bridge. We also witnessed the spectacle of the dragon breathing fire on the bridge. Da Nang is a busy city; the roads are crazy compared to the UK and traffic lights still have little importance. Everyone just rides where they want and junctions consist of a crossover mess of vehicles everywhere. Despite this, it's calmer than the constant madness of Hanoi.
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  • Marble Mountains of Da Nang

    6 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We took a trip to Marble Mountains, a series of hills made from limestone and marble with caves, temples and pagodas scattered amongst the mountains themselves. The largest cave, Huyen Kyong Cave was stunning with towering ceilings and light rays shining through lighting up the shrine inside.

    Afterwards, we rode the Hai Van Pass made famous by the Top Gear Vietnam special where the three of them also rode it on scooters. Thankfully the rain held off although it was a little cloudy. Clarkson named this route “a deserted ribbon of perfection — one of the best coast roads in the world” and we could see why. This 21km mountainous road snaked through the steep hills and jungles making for some amazing views over Da Nang. This road was also a particularly important link between the cities Da Nang and Hue during the American war.

    This evening we took a sunset stroll along the beach and had a surprisingly good stone baked pizza from a mobile van whilst watching a group play beach volleyball. Being coastal, Da Nang is known for its great seafood so we decided to try some fresh seafood for dinner and enjoyed scallops, king prawns and crab. It was nice but reminded us how messy and long winded seafood is to eat! Lots of restaurants had fish markets where they displayed their catches in tanks for locals to choose. Some sea creatures were huge and unfortunately many were often rammed into the tanks with little space (if any) to move.

    This was our last day in Da Nang as tomorrow we ride over to neighboring Hoi An. Now this will be an interesting ride with both of us and our rucksacks on one scooter but fortunately Hoi An is only 40 minutes away.
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  • Tailors of Hoi An

    7 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    This morning was spent on Da Nang beach before check-out. The beach was calm with a gentle breeze, few people around and some locals fishing in Vietnamese basket boats. We then packed our bags, got on our little scooter and left for the smaller city of Hoi An, a UNESCO world heritage site, about 40 minutes south of Da Nang.

    This time we checked into a homestay which is an accommodation with fewer than five rooms. Being more personal, the host was extremely welcoming on arrival. Arriving early, the room was being tidied so the host sat us down and went through local activities and things to do. Soon after we walked to Hoi An Old Town which exhibited both Chinese and Japanese influence. The inner streets were pedestrianised and full of colour with bright lanterns hanging above. What really stood out were the number of tailors around; there were literally hundreds of tailors, mostly located in the old town and often filling entire streets back to back. They seem to make anything with fabric or leather; suits, dresses, trousers, shoes, bags, wallets etc. We'd shortlisted some of the highest rated tailors so went in for a chat about what they could offer. Sure enough, all could make everything we wanted so we decided to go with the tailors that offered the best service, best materials and gave us the best overall feel.

    Dan went for two 3-piece full cashmere suits whilst Jess opted for a couple of tailored dresses and blazers. Each 3-piece tailored suit, tailored shirt and tie cost £115 in the end. You can't complain at at that. After getting measured up we were told to come back for the first fitting the following day.

    Whilst there, we thought we'd also ask if they could repair Dan's broken sandals. They couldn't help but said if we left the sandals with them, they'd sort it with another shoe shop. This would cost £2-3 apparently.

    We ended the evening with a walk over the glowing bridge and along the river which was filled with brightly lit boats and lanterns floating along in the breeze looking so picturesque. Again, the photos just don’t do it justice but it was an amazing scene while listening to live music and drinking cocktails.
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  • Hoi An

    8 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    It hasn’t stopped raining for two days now although despite this, Hoi An really is a lovely place. After a chilled morning (and Jess taking time to do a body combat workout ) we braved the weather with flip flops and an umbrella and wandered the Old Town streets, grabbing some lunch and hot chocolate. It isn't uncommon for small restaurants to serve a very small selection of food. At this restaurant, we had a choice of two local dishes and both were delicious.

    Looking to stay out of the rain, we stopped off at a heritage museum put together by a French photographer who now lived in Hoi An. Not really expecting too much from this considering is was free admission, we were pleasantly surprised as we walked into a photo gallery with information and stories about the photographer’s experience meeting various ethic communities living across the country. He had spent years travelling and meeting all 54 ethnicities present in Vietnam. Having opened up the museum to preserve Vietnamese cultures, the museum told his story and detailed accounts and experiences with each group showing their traditional tribal clothing in his photography. We found it so interesting to learn about the incredibly isolated lives of these communities, challenges and changes they faced, their traditional tribal wear and much more. A really insightful and fascinating project.

    Our first suit fitting went well with only a few alterations needing to be made. We're really pleased with how they are looking so far and are still amazed at the speed at which these are tailored. Apparently in total it takes about 3 fittings to perfect the fit of most clothing. Broken sandals update: repaired.

    Absolutely loving Hoi An and really looking forward to exploring the town and surrounding area more over the next couple of days!
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  • Another Day in Rainy Hoi An

    9 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    So the rains continues but trying not to let this dampen our spirits, we biked to My Son Sanctuary, another UNESCO heritage site and Hindu temple complex constructed between the 4th and 13th centuries. This complex of temples is recognised as the holy land for the Champa Kingdom and was only discovered by the French in the 1800s. It was interesting to see some of the architecture, and apparently it's still unknown how the bricks are held together without mortar. Not many people were around that day so we could explore the complex freely. After wandering the temples for a couple of hours, we had a break from the light rain to watch a series of dance and musical performances. It was nice to see My Son Sanctuary although we wouldn’t rush back having seen it now.

    In the evening, we had another fitting and then treated ourselves to a hearty and delicious burger after having cravings for western food. Vietnamese food is great, but we fancied a break from Cau Lao and the limited broth noodle options served in restaurants. We didn’t have high expectations for the burger but it was genuinely amazing and would rival any high-end western burger. Wandering around the Old Town again after dinner, we came across a crowded stall with people buying a drink called ‘Mot.’ It's hard to describe the taste of Mot, but it's a herbal fruity drink served over ice and drank through a thick bamboo straw. After one sip and without hesitation we both looked at each other then turned around to buy another. We both agreed Mot is our favourite South East Asian drink so far!
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  • Cooking in Hoi An

    10 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    It was our final day in Hoi An so we'd booked a cooking class for the morning which started with a guided tour around the local markets. The guide informed us about the range of foods being sold, many of which we'd never seen or heard of before. He explained to us that at 3am the animals are culled, 5am the meat is cut, 6am the meat arrives at the market and at 7am the market opens. The meat is good until 10am and afterwards the price of meat halves due to the heat - a bargain that might come along with food poisoning. Some of the unsold meat is also cooked for lunch for those on the market stalls. After the market, we had a short trip on a bamboo boat and had a go at purple clawed crab fishing for fun. The cooking class then began where in total we cooked five dishes - Pho Bo, Fresh Spring Rolls, Banh Xeo, Aubergine in Soy Sauce and Banana Flower Salad. We learnt how to make rice paper from scratch using traditional methods that had been passed on to the chef as a child before electricity came to his village in 1996. It was so fascinating to learn the process using traditional equipment where every step required a knack to get it right. All the food tasted delicious and was an absolute feast. Even better that we can keep the recipes to try back in the UK!

    In the afternoon we took a quick trip to Tra Que Vegetable Village where we could wander and watch local farmers cultivate their crops, working on their allotments. There was such a variety of foods being grown, all extremely well maintained on the neatly kept allotments.

    After walking the evening market streets one last time we came across an unbelievably smiley local in an oversized NY baseball cap selling a few dishes from her food truck. No idea why but we just couldn’t stop smiling around her so we enjoyed a banana pancake and a donut from her truck. Walking past later on she recognised us and asked if we wanted another to which we didn’t, however on the third pass, we decided to return and purchase more food; yet again this was served with a huge smile. Dan noticed himself using the two skewers served with the pancake as chop sticks half way through eating to which we both laughed at.

    Today we had our final fitting and are super happy with the tailored outfits (2 suits for Dan, 2 pencil dresses and a blazer for Jess and a blazer for Hannah). They're now being shipped back to the UK as we have no space to carry them. That certainly was an expensive parcel to send back!

    We finished the evening with another drink of Mot. When speaking to the guys running the small shop, they apparently serve 3000 cups a day - not bad at 50p each. After showing an interest in how the guys poured the drink so dramatically, they invited Dan to have a go. It wasn’t a complete disaster but lets just say Dan didn't quite have the technique although gave it a good try.

    As we left Hoi An today we noticed lots of people burning paper outside their homes. This wasn’t waste paper but brand new paper they'd specifically bought to burn consisting of paper money, paper clothing and paper food. Apparently this is a ritual at full moon as a way to remember the dead as mentioned by our tour guide at the market.

    We have absolutely loved Hoi An despite the rainy weather and we now understand why so many travelers rave about the place. After a fantastic few days, we now head to Nha Trang.
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  • Mud Baths, Nha Trang

    11 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We took a late flight from Da Nang to Nha Trang followed by a bus to our hotel. We didn’t get in until 10pm so grabbed some food and went straight to sleep. This is a flying visit having only planned to spend a day and a half in the city. Nha Trang is known for its nice beaches and a place to generally relax with fewer sights to see.

    Yesterday, we visited Thap Ba hot spring mud bath. There was more to this than your typical mud bath as it was recommended you followed a series of steps to maximise the benefits for your skin. The ‘treatment’ went something like this: change into swimwear and shower off first. Then a bathtub was filled with hot mud where we soaked for 20 minutes. We then got out and dried off in the sun until brown and crispy, then showered off once more. Once clean we walked through a hydrotherapy water jet tunnel. This was no more than a tunnel with lots of high pressure water jets shooting inwards as we walked through, although borderline painful! We were then greeted with a hot mineral soak for 3 minutes in a large jacuzzi before finally relaxing in another still hot bath for 30 minutes. Given the water temperature was around 40C we would have welcomed cool air as it was hot today. After the treatment we moved to a chill out area around the swimming pools to further relax. The largest pool was heated to 38C however we gladly stayed in the cooler pools floating around on tyre inner tubes. Being completely honest, we were both a little skeptical of this experience having not really enjoyed a previous mud bath in Turkey, however we actually did enjoy this one.

    Given the clear blue skies and sunshine, the afternoon was spent on the beach until after sunset. As the sun lowered, more and more people joined until the beach became busy, not what we expected and a complete contrast to the quiet beach in the afternoon. Locals must come out to play after work!

    Later that evening we wandered another night market, although this one was quite underwhelming so we decided to head towards a beach club we’d seen on the first night on the beachfront. With music blaring, lights flashing and fire dancers dancing we couldn’t say no so ordered a pitcher to share, although unlike Koh Phi Phi, we did manage to get home in one piece this time!
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  • Ponagar Cham Towers, Nha Trang

    13 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    This morning we explored Ponagar Cham Towers in Nha Trang, a very old trio of Hindu temples. Not too much to see but pretty amazing considering they were built over 1300 years ago. Lastly we stopped off at a central shopping mall to top up on toiletries. Certain toiletries such as moisturisers and face cream are proving difficult to find as nearly all of them have skin whitening agents. This is certainly one thing we noticed whilst travelling in SE Asia; people go to extreme measures to ensure their skin colour is as light as possible. For example, using skin whitening or brightening products, 100+ spf sun cream, as well as covering up from head to toe whilst riding motorbikes or when walking the streets. It's strange that in the UK and other western countries, people strive for that ‘sun kissed,’ tanned look, whilst in Asia, locals will do whatever they can to have whiter skin. Based on what we've read, their perception of skin colour is linked to social class, where dark skin has long been associated with working on fields and rural poverty, whilst paler skin indicates a wealthier, more comfortable lifestyle indoors. Also, interestingly we found genuine motorcycle helmets being sold right beside children’s toys. Not only that but the helmets cost less than a bottle of non-whitening body lotion we eventually managed to find.

    A short stop but Nha Trang was worth seeing if only for a couple of days. We now head to Dalat, a mountainous region 1500m above sea level making it cooler than any place we’ve been so far. In fact, we are currently on our first sleeper bus travelling though the central Vietnamese mountain range. We each have our own compartment with a curtain for privacy and a bed where you can lie flat quite comfortably. One hour down, three to go!
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  • Arriving in Da Lat

    13 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The sleeper bus from Nha Trang to Da Lat was actually a success. Given the route was through twisting mountainous roads we didn’t expect much comfort although were pleasantly surprised. We didn’t sleep as it was mid afternoon but we were able to lay back and relax during the four hour journey.

    Da Lat is a high altitude city up in the mountains, the largest of Vietnam's central highland regions and as expected was much cooler than other Asian places visited so far. We arrived late afternoon and went straight to check-in, although for the first time so far we were actually disappointed at the £6 room. The room wasn’t clean, had a damp smell and mould on the walls. Thinking it would be fine as we were only there for 3 nights we ignored the issues and left to explore Da Lat by foot. Whilst walking around we decided to change hotels so after explaining this to the manager, he understood although offered no solutions to move to another room which says it all really! A bit of mooching around the town and we found another guesthouse. Basic, but the room was a good size and clean.

    With that off our minds, we walked the market and enjoyed some street-side BBQ skewers for dinner. Da Lat is really busy in and around the central area just beside the lake. Whilst walking around, Jess was asked for another photo to which of course she happily obliged. We weren’t quite so sure why this time as there were a few other blonde tourists around. With Da Lat being 1500m above sea level, there is a noticeable difference in temperature of 22°C during the afternoon, dropping to 15°C at night. Such a contrast to the hotter, humid climate we've been exposed to for the past six weeks and for the first time on our travels, we've opted to wear jumpers! Rooms here don't even have air con.
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  • Mountainous Da Lat

    14 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Our first full day in Da Lat so of course we got on a scooter and rode into the mountains to explore, but first we stopped off at a very busy looking bakery just by our hotel for breakfast. It turns out Lien Hoa, the bakery, was busy from morning right until late evening and we can see why! They sold all kinds of pastries, cakes, breads and desserts, not to mention their subway style fresh baguettes (Banh Mi) which we bought for lunch costing a little over 60p each and they were delicious! Heading south riding past Datanla waterfalls, we saw the popular cable car strung across two peaks. Knowing there was a downhill coaster near the cable car, we changed path and rode in that direction in the hope of finding it. Luckily we did so decided to stop and have a go, forgetting it was a Sunday however. Tickets were reasonable but the queue was not, although our fault for visiting on the weekend. After an hour or so we got on and had a blast… for seconds... until we caught up to the slow coach in front. With his camera out, he must have been photographing the woods instead of enjoying the ride as he was going very slow. Thankfully there were two parts to the coaster and luckily he wandered off before we got onto the next ride. This time we enjoyed the ride although Jess wasn't such a fan of Dan's 'no brakes' approach. No doubt Jess' screams were heard by the queue back at the top. Minutes before the final ascent back to the start, the heavens opened for an hour or so. We stayed dry before finally deciding to continue our mountain ride and luckily within minutes of hopping on the scooter the rain had stopped. The first route on our trip was south around Tuyen Lam Lake only taking an hour, but as you’d expect the views were amazing. Heading back towards Da Lat and enjoying the ride so much, we decided to ride another route, this time in the mountains. We decided to head north of Da Lat as there was a big storm cloud heading towards the city. We were literally trying to out-ride the rain and believe it or not it worked! No rain and a very enjoyable 55km ride through the mountains. We saw miles of industrial greenhouses spread across the valley in what looked like a huge agricultural production area. We later discovered Da Lat is a significant producer of vegetables, flowers and fruits in what is a major centre of agriculture for the country.Читать далее

  • Temples of Da Lat

    14 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    After the ride, we returned to Da Lat and stopped off at the Linh Phuoc Pagoda. This mosaic looking complex was built from glass debris, old pottery and porcelain pieces back in 1952. The buildings were impressive featuring Vietnam's largest bell weighing 8.5 tonnes, a dragon made from 12,000 beer bottles and a 17m high lady Buddha made from 650,000 immortal flowers. Below the complex was a random area selling marble and wooden dining furniture for upwards of £15k, strange.

    Finally getting back, we left for dinner and enjoyed Mexican burritos and quesadillas beside a pair of live blue parrots on a branch. 10 minutes in the parrots decided to attack the couple next to us flapping on their heads and over their dinner. The girl ran out screaming ‘f**k this s**t’ as the staff walked over to put the parrots back. The solution: give the parrots some food and move the couple one table back. Needless to say our state of relaxation suddenly lessened, even more so when our food arrived.

    Lastly we left for a nice cocktail bar with games and live music. On the way home we walked past a vendor selling the famous Da Lat speciality - a hot, sweet soy milk drink and it wasn’t bad!

    So far, we're really liking Da Lat. Not really knowing what to expect we'd say the infrastructure is more developed than you might imagine it to be. The area definitely has a French/Swiss alps vibe with the town itself looking European - the slim houses are positioned close together with many of them painted either white or a bright bold colour.
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  • Canyoning, Da Lat

    15 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    One of the most popular adventure activities in Da Lat is canyoning so of course we had to try it! We were picked up from our hotel at 8am and taken to get kitted up. Altogether there were 8 people in our group and before heading to the canyon, we had a safety briefing and an introduction to the technique of abseiling. In total we completed 6 main activities; these included a zip line, an 18m abseil, water sliding, a 25m waterfall abseil, cliff jumping and the ‘washing machine’. The highlight was the 25m waterfall abseil down a rock face directly into a flowing waterfall. Approximately 5m from the bottom, we had to take a leap of faith falling into the plunge pool below. The last activity named the 'washing machine' was pretty interesting. Starting as a small abseil until the cliff overhung, we then lowered ourselves into the water flow to drop off the line. The water flow pulled us down into a turbulent pool. “During this time, there will be about 3-4 seconds where the tourists are completely plunged underwater and cannot recognise direction. Physiological preparation and breath holding should be made necessary” was kindly written on a sign at the top.

    We both loved it and were pleasantly surprised by the water temperature being warmer than expected. Health and safety precautions were certainly not up to British standards by any means. Having family members with mountaineering experience, we suspect they may have winced at a fair few things we saw throughout the day. One of those being a rope zipline with too much stretch that resulted in a large chap impacting the rock below with his back as he leapt off a rock. You’ll see Jess doing this manoeuvre at the start of one of the video clips, although being lighter Jess avoided the rock. Luckily he wore a life jacket which would have softened some of the impact, however he was in noticeable pain struggling to get up as he landed. We did see him later on and although limping, did seem to be okay. Despite this it was a great excursion, for us at least!

    For dinner was a table top BBQ, a very popular dish in Da Lat. We ventured a little further out of the town centre this time, wanting to try some Da Lat specialities but really struggled with the language barrier. It turned out the BBQ we tried to order was finished for the night at one particular restaurant but google translate wasn’t on our side for some reason. We can’t remember the full conversation and wish google translate had saved it, but one of the literal translations from the lady serving us was ‘turn the corner and tickle the cows ass tonight’. Desperately trying not to laugh we both figured we couldn’t get the BBQ and left. After more looking we eventually enjoyed a similar dish elsewhere.
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  • The Crazy House, Da Lat

    16 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Our final morning in Da Lat was spent at the 'Crazy House'. This was previously an architectural project which later opened to the public as more funding was needed for completion. Even to this day the project is still undergoing work. The Crazy House was no exaggeration and really was crazy with a maze of spiralling staircases, sculptural bedrooms, undulating surfaces, swirls of bright colour, narrow bridges and hidden nooks. It's difficult to describe but the buildings looked like something straight from a cartoon. Part of it is even a guesthouse for tourists to stay in.

    We had hoped to finish with a pedalo on the lake before departure but struggled with airport transfers so didn't have time. As mentioned online, the airport shuttle bus ‘may arrive 2 hours before every flight’ at a stop outside one particular hotel. Speaking to the receptionist of this hotel, they suggested the shuttle bus stop had moved to an unknown location, great... helpful.

    Da Lat is Vietnam's answer to a French alps community. It's surrounded by mountainous views, filled with colourful French inspired buildings and even has a delicious bakery. We would recommend Da Lat to anyone visiting Vietnam and would stay longer if we could, however unfortunately we've run out of time here. Next we head to Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam's biggest city!
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  • Ho Chi Minh

    16 августа 2022 г., Вьетнам ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We arrived in Ho Chi Minh after a short flight from Da Lat yesterday evening. Getting to the hotel was slightly harder than expected as we were advised that bus 152 would take us straight to District 1, however after searching for over 30 minutes we still couldn't find the bus stop… Taxi it was. We arrived late evening but had time to eat in a local courtyard near our hotel. Ho Chi Minh is described as the larger more modern version of Hanoi which so far looks to be true.

    The following morning we hired a scooter to explore the city and visited a few of the famous sights. The roads are no less busy than Hanoi but have a slightly less chaotic feel. They are by no means quiet but do feel somewhat manageable so we left for the Independence Palace, the ex home of the president prior to the Vietnam war. Now open to the public, the building has little use but remains a significant historical landmark. On the afternoon of 30 April 1975, the northern Vietnamese 390 tank finally crashed through the front gates of the grounds effectively ending the war.

    Our second stop was at the War Remnants Museum detailing the American Vietnam War. Upon entering the museum we walked through an area showing the Vietnamese ‘tiger cages’. These were small cages covered in barbed wire used to detain up to 7 people at once in the prisons. Difficult to see and read the detailed accounts of how the north/south Vietnamese treated each other during the war but very informative. We did have to do a little reading up on the war beforehand as the museum didn’t really focus on the causes of the war (which perhaps may have been useful). It was heart-breaking to read the stories, information and see photographs of the inhumane actions that occurred throughout the war, including the My Lai massacre and impacts of Agent Orange, a toxic chemical containing extremely high concentrations of dioxin. 45 million litres of this devastating chemical was sprayed over 24% of south Vietnamese farmland, villages and cities to kill all vegetation and food supply chains. More significantly, it was estimated to have affected over 3 million individuals. Short term direct exposure caused skin burning and blistering, second hand exposure led to serious illness but long term effects included cancers and severe physical and mental defects. An estimated 150,000 babies were born with serious birth defects and millions are still affected today, as effects can be passed down through generations. Fortunately all remaining stock of agent orange was destroyed in 1978 with no suggestion that any exists today other than in a few highly concentrated areas still being actively decontaminated to this day. Very upsetting to read about but also very eye opening. The final display on the third floor showed images taken by photographers throughout the war to commemorate other photographers killed during the war. Some very powerful but yet again saddening images.

    Overall the museum gave a Vietnamese perspective however this did seem biased focusing solely on the war crimes committed by the USA. We didn't really know enough about the war in detail, but did wonder if it was a little dismissive of other nations’ involvements? Despite this, it gave an opportunity to reflect on the terrible past and how important it is that we learn from these events, although it appears this may not be the case with Ukraine and Russia.

    Soon after we rode to explore a few other landmarks including the Pink Cathedral, Central Office and the Notre Dame towers albeit hidden behind scaffolding and out of sight. The evening was spent mooching around enjoying street food and a bit of Ho Chi Minh’s night life; this involved a trip to Bui Vien walking street, also known as ‘Western Street.’ This is a street packed full of bars and eateries which come alive at night; a very popular area amongst backpackers. After a wander down the street we stopped for Pho Bo street food once again.
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