• Jan Wockner
  • Jan Wockner

My Camino Frances 2024

Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela Read more
  • Trip start
    April 14, 2024

    Saint Jean Pied de Port

    Apr 16–17, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I caught the bus from Bayonne station to Saint Jean Pied de Port. I met Lisa and Jerrod from Mooloolaba on the Sunshine coast on the bus. How funny! Linda, a friend I met on Facebook, was waiting for me. We met for the first time! We walked to our accommodation La Villa Esponda where we had an apartment for the night.
    I picked up my Credencial from the Pilgrims office for my Camino. How exciting to be in SJPdP for the start of the walk tomorrow.
    We met Lisa and Jerrod for dinner that night. I had trout, potatoes and veges. Yummy!
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  • Auberge Borda

    April 17, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Linda and I started our Camino Frances from Saint Jean Pied de Port today.

    I had booked two beds at Aubergue Borda back in December and shared the booking with Linda. Borda only has 12 beds so we were thrilled to be staying there.

    The walk up to Borda was 6km uphill! It was like doing Keperra Hill for 3 1/2 hours! It was really tough and I rested a lot.

    We had lunch at Orisson. I was able to get lamb chops and salad (gluten free of course) and it was yummy!

    Borda was another 1 km from Orisson. We were glad to get there and check in.

    The communal dinner was great. I met Pat and Brigitte, who I saw later in Pamplona.

    Andrew and Kristin from NZ were there, they were good company later when Pat found out her sister had passed away.
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  • The Pyrenees

    Apr 18–19, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    Laurent from Auberge Borda filled us in on the weather report and it was to be cold and rainy. He was right! I walked with Linda for a while before meeting up with Tanya. As we walked, the visibility got less and less. We were surrounded by clouds and couldn't see past 150m in front. At times it was hard to see the markers. It was uphill for 10km, flat for 1km and downhill for 7km. It was a very hard day of walking. I was praying and talking to myself. I left Tanya while walking thru the mud, my hands were freezing. We all made it to Roncesvalles, what a relief to see the monastery!

    16.82 km walking

    I was on level 3 in a cubicle with Jeanette from Canada. I slept well with earplugs that night.
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  • Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    April 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Linda and I walked with Pat to Espinol. We stopped and had a cafe con leche in the sun at a cafe.

    While walking Pat got a phone call from her son . She found out her sister had passed away in her sleep during the night. She was obviously devastated. We walked together to Biskaretti and found a bar for something to eat.

    We decided to catch a taxi from Biskaretti to Zubiri.

    12 km walk

    Dinner at Albergue Suseia in Zubiri was amazing! A lovely communal pilgrim dinner.
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  • Zubiri to Pamplona

    Apr 20–21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    This was a big day. I was so exhausted when I reached Pamplona. 23 km walk.

    Pat, Linda and I walked from Zubiri from Albergue Suseia.

    It was a lovely day's walk, sunny weather. Pat and Linda walked on ahead and I walked solo into Pamplona. In hindsight I should have caught a taxi the last 5km as when I walked into Pamplona I was exhausted. I didn't have any data on my phone and didn't know where my hotel was. A nice man in a convenience store helped me find my way.

    I stayed at Hotel Europa and luckily there was a bath in my room! I took some Panadol and ran a warm bath to soak in. Legs up the wall and a little rest and I felt much better.
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  • Pamplona

    April 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Pamplona

    Some sights of the old town.
    I had dinner with Pat and Brigitte at the cafe that Ernest Hemingway frequented.

    Lamb shoulder and potato chips were yummy and gf.

  • Pamplona to Uterga

    April 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Busy morning in Pamplona before walking to Uterga to meet up with Pat at the Albergue.

    I shipped my blue bag (with my hiking boots and stuff that I didn't need) to Santiago de Compostela. Correos the post office will store it for 45 days while I walk there.

    I bought a smaller backpack - 20 litres - to carry my day stuff, and shipped my Green Osprey backpack (toiletries, clothes and medication) to my next accommodation. Much more manageable carrying a smaller pack.

    I bought a Vodafone sim card to use while in Spain - only 20€ and 150GB of data.

    Lovely day of walking. Alto del Perdon with life-size metal structures of pilgrims past and present installed here in 1996 was spectacular and very windy. Monumento al Peregrino (Monument to the Pilgrim)
    The pilgrims are walking, and some are riding horses (and one, a donkey) a dog at their side, all making their way west.
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  • Uterga to Lorca

    April 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    A bit of a rainy day today. Beautiful views. I walked with Pat. A fellow pilgrim Gladys from NZ took a photo of us by the bridge.

    Our accommodation Casa Nahia was awesome...... very new and modern. We met Kathi there and had a shared dinner together.

    We planned our next stop at Azqueta at La Perla Negra.
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  • Lorca to Azqueta

    April 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Kathi, Pat and I walked together from Lorca to Azqueta.

    We visited the wine fountain in Irache and had fun filling up our water bottle with wine. The red wine was very dry.

    I bought a metal Camino shell necklace for 7€

    We stayed at Azqueta, at an Albergue La Perla Negra. Helena cooked us a communal pilgrim's dinner. Vegetarian and gf.

    I had a 'private room' which didn't have a lock on it and was very cold, until we asked for the heating to be turned on. Pat thought it was very funny that the 'private room' couldn't be locked 😆

    We met Michael from the US who had already walked the Appalachian Trail. He was walking around 35km per day!
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  • Navarrete

    April 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Pat and I walked to Los Arcos together. This was to be where I left her company to catch up with my booked accommodation as I had rest days in Pamplona and some shorter walking days. I caught a taxi from Los Arcos to Navarrete and it cost around 68 Euro. An expensive day but essential as I didn't want to cancel and re-book all my accommodation.

    I went out to dinner In Navarrete that night, walked to the nearby Cathedral and met up with Rod (Mehrdad) who I originally saw in Roncesvalles after the hard walk that day! We had dinner together, and Eugene joined us too.
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  • Najera

    April 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Walked Navarrete to Najera 17.26 km through vineyards with views of the mountains. Walked alone but there were other pilgrims while I walked.

  • Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    Apr 27–28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    When I woke up and got ready I didn't realise it was raining. Not pleasant to walk in so I found a Bar open, talked to the waitress and she sliced some fresh ham and cheese for me for breakfast (gluten free) with a cafe con leche and freshly squeezed orange juice.

    When the rain stopped I started walking to Azofra. It was fine and sunny at first. After Azofra it rained for a while. Then fined up.

    I passed a family walking the Camino to Santiago.... a mother and her two children - her daughter was in the buggy and her son walked with her. They were from Germany.

    I reached Cirueña and had a coffee and packet of chips at the Golf club. I felt okay and decided to walk the remaining 7km to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
    It rained and rained!

    I had trouble finding my hostel.... Google wasn't correct. Anyway, got there in the end. Hotel Atapuerca, very nice.

    22 km walk today
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  • Belorado

    Apr 28–29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado. There were many stops on the way to Belorado. I could have taken a taxi but decided to walk the whole way and it ended up being almost 23km. I was dead by the time I reached my accommodation. I feel a sense of achievement for completing two days walking of over 20km each day.

    It was cold today. I stopped a few times for coffee and orange juice. I had bought snacks yesterday from a supermarket in Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

    I stayed at Hotel Rural Verdeancho. Its a private room with two beds and bathroom. The stone walls are really nice. A good days walk!
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  • Burgos

    Apr 29–May 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Dot points
    10.45am Bus to Burgos with other pilgrims
    My hotel is near the Museum
    I met up with Linda at her hotel and we went out to lunch in Plaza Mayor
    We went to the Cathedral and got a stamp for our credencialsRead more

  • Rest days in Burgos

    Apr 30–May 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Burgos is a beautiful and relaxed city. The Cathedral and old town are fascinating. I did a Cathedral tour, it was 5€ because I showed my Pilgrim credencial. A free audio tour downloaded on my phone gave insights during the tour. So beautiful and ornate, and enormous. Right in the centre of Burgos.

    For breakfast I was able to have a gf ham and cheese toasted sandwich.

    I stayed at Hotel Forum Evolucion, which is very close to the Museum of Human Evolution.

    They had a Sin Gluten sign at the Hotel. I didn't know this before I booked, and I am so glad as it has been nice to have gf options at breakfast and in the nearby cafe.

    I met Lisa and Jerrod at a Mexican restaurant for dinner. We had a nice time together.
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  • Hornillos del Camino

    May 2–3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    My heart wasn't in it today. I walked from Burgos through the university area and out to the Meseta. I stopped at a bar at Tardajos and had a rest.

    I decided to take a taxi to my Albergue in Hornillos del Camino. I rested when I got there. It was nice to be amongst people even though most didn't speak English.

    The communal pilgrims dinner was amazing. Salad and chicken paella, with yoghurt for dessert.

    I got a good night's sleep with my wax earplugs!
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  • Castrojeriz

    May 3–4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    It was so cold today! 5 deg most of the morning.

    I had a coffee when I left Hornillos del Camino. The next stop for breakfast was around 10km. I stopped at a bar and had cafe con leche and two boiled eggs.

    The next stop was Castrojeriz where I was staying. My Albergue was through the town and was another 20 min walk.

    Albergue Rosalia had single beds (no bunk beds)

    20km walk today
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  • Fromista

    May 4–5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Hanh from California walked with me for a while. It started out cold but pleasant. After climbing the first hill, it was flat for the rest of the day. Towards the afternoon it was very windy and I was walking into the wind until I got to Fromista.

    26 km walk

    My hotel room has a bath so I soaked in the bath for a while to recover my weary legs and feet.

    I found a nice restaurant for dinner. They cooked me a steak (rare) which was delicious. They always seem to put roasted capsicum on the plate.
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  • Carrion de los Condes

    May 5–6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Rest day today. I caught a taxi from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes.

    It was too early to check in to my hostel so I walked to the river and stopped at a bar where they made me a gf chicken salad.

    Dinner was at the local restaurant where I sat at the pilgrims table and met up with Jan & Jodi from the US again.
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  • Sahagun

    May 7–8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    A nice cold fine day. Only 16km walk today. I had breakfast at the albergue - coffee con leche and two boiled eggs.

    At the next village when buying a snack, Kathy called out to me - she was in the same cafe! I hadn't seen her since Azqueta.

    We walked together and chatted. It was lovely to meet up with a friendly face.

    After settling in to our rooms at Sagahun, Kathy and I went for a walk around the village. We had lumch together - it was the nicest mixta ensalada (tuna salad) that I've had so far.

    Later that evening we met up with Dani (from Chile and Philadelphia US). I had vege paella, it was a little al dente but nice.

    16 km walk
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  • Reliegos

    May 8–9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Kathy and I caught the train from Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero and started walking from there.

    It was about 14km walk. We stopped for a coffee in El Burgo Ranero. The walk was mainly beside the roadway. Very flat. And it was cold and sunny.

    Albergue Vive Tu Camino was where I stayed. The couple who ran it spoke no English so I used Google Translate a lot.

    I had a scary moment when I tried to exit my room and the door didn't open. I knocked on the door, someone got the owner. I put the key under the door, he opened it. He didn't believe that it was broken so I got him to come i to the room and closed the door. He couldn't open it either! Funny situation but a bit overwhelming for me. He moved me to another room, thank goodness.

    We had a pilgrim's meal with tuna salad (ensalada mixta) and roast chicken. The meals are so big!
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  • Puente Villarente

    May 9–10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Kathy and I had breakfast together at my Albergue. They were very kind to give her breakfast as her albergue didn't have anything to offer.

    It was a flat walk beside the roadway most of the time. Fine and sunny, becoming warmer as the morning went on. We saw sheep being herded under the bridge.Read more

  • Leon

    May 10–11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I caught the bus into Leon with Kathy and Ragna to skip over walking through the industrial areas.

    The walk into Leon from the bus station was easy, crossing over the river and through the markets. We stopped for a coffee together.

    Ragna left us to walk on to the next village.

    Kathy and I visited the Cathedral and the building designed by Gaudi. Very interesting.

    We ate at a gluten free restaurant that night and had latin American food, I was so full!
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  • San Martin Del Camino

    May 11–12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I caught the bus from Leon to San Miguel del Camino and walked 12km to San Martin del Camino.

    Still the Meseta, flat and by the roadside. Not a very interesting day.

    I had dinner at the albergue down the road (Albergue La Huella), as my albergue didn't offer dinner. I happened to see Kirsten and Andrew from NZ! Had a nice night.Read more