Bavaria and Middle Rhine

agosto - setembro 2022
Uma 22aventura de um dia na Wolpertinger Wanderings Leia mais

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  • More of the Castle

    13 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We came back from Rothenburg tired and a little damp from the on and off rain. We wandered around the castle and the grounds. This really is a very nice, and interesting place. There are so many different rooms to sit in, so much stuff inside them. Of course staying in a castle is pretty amazing for us, so there's also that. We visited the chapel. Colmberg Castle is a popular place for weddings, and I can see why.

    Dinner in the restaurant was good. Herr Hai might have eaten one of the former residents of the castle deer park. He ordered venison goulasch, and we all know where that comes from.

    Again, after dinner, we walked around. Enjoyed the sunset. Watched the deer. Tonight, if we actually wake up and get out of bed, we're going to look for the ghost.
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  • Who You Gonna Call?

    14 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Not us, apparently. During our late night foray around the castle we didn't find any ghosts. We didn't find anything. Except the deer and the sketchy elevator. I guess that's probably for the best, as we left our Holy Water at home, and obviously, you can't bring a proton pack and a ghost trap on a commercial airliner. I see that Ghostbusting isn't a business we'll be going into any time soon.

    The castle was eerily quiet at night. I'm sure that's because all the normal guests were asleep. The ghost obviously was, too.
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  • Herr Haifisch's Day Take One

    14 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Today was the day Herr Haifisch planned. We were going to hike all around the castle, maybe to the next town, have lunch, and hike some more. Well, it didn't work out that way.

    After our late night ghost adventure, we slept a little later. Not that that was a problem late for us is seven o'clock. Breakfast, then straightening up the room, then off to hike. Except we really never found the right trail. Or at least, we didn't find the one we wanted to find, as per the maps.

    So we just walked around, in the rain for a while. Finally, I said, "Look, I don't want to push in the day you planned, so if you just want to keep walking around, that's fine...."

    He seemed really glad to have other suggestions, then didn't like the one I made, "Let's go to Wurzburg."

    We just went back to the castle, and I think he remembered all of my speeches over the years on vacations, "TIME IS MONEY, WE HAVE TO DO SOMETHING." We compromised, and decided to go to Ansbach.

    Why he agreed to that, I have no idea. It was closer than Wurzburg, and he really wasn't enjoying driving, so maybe that was it. Having a rental car is bad enough, having it in a foreign country-- he wasn't a fan. Not to mention the roads are really narrow, and Germans drive really fast, really close, and really aggressively. At least they do here.

    So here's the hike... One good thing, we got to walk on two pilgrimage trails at once, so that was efficient.
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  • Ansbach

    14 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    I thought I was underprepared for Nuremberg and Regensburg, well I was completely unprepared for Ansbach. It wasn't even on our list. Ever. Not even long before I pared it down.

    We knew there was a garden. There was a cafe in the Orangerie. It wasn't far from where we parked. So we went to eat lunch, walked through the garden. We saw the outside of the palace, and I don't know why we didn't go in.

    Tired. Didn't feel like it. Grouchy. That's why. Too much travel.

    But we were there and we were going to see something. So lunch outside, then garden, then wandered the Altstadt. Two churches.

    I did learn that Ansbach was another Hohenzollern town. That promotion to Margrave of Brandenburg really helped them out, I can see that. One century, they're counts, maybe not even counts, maybe simple Freiherrs of some towns and lands in Franken, a couple centuries later, Kings of Prussia, another one, BAM! Emperors of Germany. Not that THAT lasted a long time.
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  • The Hofgarten

    14 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    The Ansbach Residenz, the palace of the Hohenstauffens, has an Orangerie and gardens which were built separately from the palace. This was a place for pretty flowers and parties. We ate in the cafe and walked around the gardens. There was a lot of open space, park like areas, trees, flowers. It wasn't as fussy as the Mirabel gardens in Salzburg. A different look and atmosphere, equally nice.Leia mais

  • Sankt Gumbertus

    14 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Today, this is a Lutheran church. It originated in 748 as a monastery church. Through the Middle Ages, it was enlarged and updated, finally reaching this final Baroque design.

    Of special note, the Swan Knight Chapel, dedicated to the Order of the Swan, a spiritual chivalric order dedicated to the Virgin Mary, founded by Elector Frederick II of Brandenburg. This particular offshoot in Ansbach was established by Margrave Albrecht Achilles in 1459.

    After some of the highly decorated churches further south in Bavaria, this one is a little bit bare. Of course, it's also Lutheran and has been for a long time. The organ and pulpit are very impressive, though, and the glass was nice. The altar painting, figure of St George, and the young knight come from the Chapel of the Swan.
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  • Sankt Johannis

    14 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Sankt Johannis was built in the 1400s. In 1528, the Margrave Georg the Pious decided he (and everyone else in Ansbach) were going to be Evangelical (again, in American terminology, Lutheran). The rest is history.

    The windows, which remind me of the ones from the Lutheran churches in which I went to as a young child, are painted stained glass which were installed in 1903. You can tell from the windows, this is a very Lutheran church. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

    This was our last stop in Ansbach before we gave up. We made a stop on the way back to the castle to get some snacks and food for breakfast. We'd be leaving early the next day, way before breakfast started. We had to return the car to the Frankfurt airport by 10, and it was at least a two plus hour drive.

    Here endeth the day Herr Haifisch planned. Let us never do it again.
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  • Fun on the Autobahn

    15 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    If you'd like a soundtrack to this part of our journey, yes, there's that wonderful song by the German band Kraftwerk, "Fun on the Autobahn". We though, started our drive listening to David Bowie's album "Low".

    And our drive was fun. Until it wasn't.

    We started our drive early. Left our key on the reception desk because no one was up to take it. It was rainy. Foggy. We drove under the portcullis of Burg Colmberg for the last time, making our way to the Autobahn. The A3 to be exact.

    So despite the rain, we were doing well. We even liked going super fast on the Autobahn. Remember, fahrvergnügen? That was all well and good, even in the misty rain. It became not so good when we hit the traffic jam. We really didn't want to pay for another day if we were late returning the car. We had left more than three hours for this trip.

    It became even less okay, seriously bad, when we got off the highway at Frankfurt airport. The traffic was Atlanta Georgia on interstate 85 in the middle of the day bad. Okay, we expected traffic. We live in a big city which has bad traffic. Our daughter had lived outside DC for years, and we drove all over down there. But this bad traffic with stress and worrying about the rental in a foreign country? Yikes.

    We researched all of this. Okay, I did the research, Herr Hai watched the videos and read the sites I found. We watched EXACTLY how to get from the highway to the gas station and then the proper garage where we had to drop off.

    Obviously it didn't work out that way, or I wouldn't have said it went badly. Somehow, we missed the gas station entirely (and you know what that means, returning a rental car not full---$$$$$ and at European prices). We got into a lane that was so wrong-- we were hemmed in by cars and busses. We realized we had messed up when we needed some card to get through a gate-- thankfully the bus driver behind us, after getting out of his bus and banging on the window-- realized we were super dumb Americans-- forced his bus back into the traffic so we could get to where we needed to go.

    Thank you, nice German bus driver.

    So we returned the car, just on time. It didn't matter anyway, because they were so busy with the couple who had take a huge piece out of one wheel and the side panel of the car they were returning, they just waved us off. I'm sure we'll get a bill for the gas, later.

    So we made it. We did some reconnaissance for her flight in a few days. We didn't have a lot of time to transfer from our train to our flight, so we found the air-rail luggage drop off, then the way to the long-distance train station. All good.

    Then, we went to find our train to our next stop, a nice town in the Middle Rhine called Boppard. As the time came nearer, and we were getting our things together (still had that jinky blue bag), there was an announcement.

    The Deutsche Bahn voice intoned from above, "Leibe Kunden und Kundinnen..." garble garble echo echo in the high ceilinged hall...the gist of it was, our train was canceled.

    We were on a tight schedule. Only a few days were left of our vacation and I wanted to see a lot of things. I didn't want to wait another hour for the next train. Thank goodness we had that Russian burner phone, and the DB app! I found another route-- take this train to this little town, run really quickly (hope it's not late), and get on this other one....

    We made the first train, even though we had to go back to the other terminal. It was late, of course. As we pulled into the a station in some suburb of Frankfurt, we saw our other train already there. Okay, now you're going to be on time?

    We ran for it. Once we were on the train, Herr Hai asked, "Are you sure it's the right train?"

    The train conductor was walking up the aisle, and he looked kind of taken aback by our rather freaked out appearance. I tried to ask in German, "Bitte, ist der Zug gehen..." So much bad German there. My ancestors are turning in their graves.

    "Where do you want to go," Herr Schaffner asked, in English.

    All I could think of at this point was a paraphrase from Bram Stoker's "Dracula", "Seeing from their violent demeanor, that they were American..." The real line is "his" instead of their and British/English instead of American.

    Of course by the time I answered, "Boppard," it didn't really matter. The train was already on moving. We were such a mess, he didn't even ask to see our tickets.
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  • Boppard

    15 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    There are a lot of towns along this stretch of the Rhine-- another UNESCO Heritage Area--. We chose Boppard because it was central to what we wanted to see. We only had a few days here, and wanted to make the most of it. Not to mention, they had a guest card in return for your tourist tax that gave you free access to busses and even better, local trains.

    We got off the train and were greeted by a statue of Engelberg Humperdinkt leading two children by the hands. Not the singer, the German composer who wrote the opera Hansel and Gretel. Our apartment was down a narrow side street, not far from river.

    Boppard has been inhabited for a long time. It might have been the site of a Celtic settlement, but we know that the Romans established themselves here after the conquest of Gaul. In 355 while shoring up the west bank of the Rhine against continued attacks by the Germans, a fort was built at the location.

    Later, Boppard became a Free Imperial City, until Emperor Heinrich VII gave the town to his brother, Archbishop of Trier, stripping it of its independence and its town privileges. The residents weren't happy about this, and tried in many different ways to subvert the deal, but to no avail. At one point, they had gained back their freedom, but that was short lived as the Elector of Trier claimed the Emperor who reinstated their charter had overstepped his authority, and attacked the town with 12,000 soldiers.

    As it stands in a strategically significant position, poor Boppard was fought over, invaded, and occupied in almost every war that occurred in the area including by the Swedes (Thirty Years War) and the French (Nine Years' War, War of the Polish Succession, Jacobin Wars, Napoleonic Wars), and the Americans, who used the town as a bridgehead across the Rhine in World War II.

    So we found out apartment, took care of the check in/guest card paperwork, and then went walking. It was a while after lunch at this point, and someone (me) was getting cranky. After that, we found the Roman ruins, the Templar House, Saint Severus church, and enjoyed the scenery.

    It's the end of chanterelle season here, so the place we ate on the square had a nice spätzle dish with chanterelle cream sauce on the menu. Her Hai got that, and this time, I got the schnitzel. Since this is a wine growing region (Bopparder Hamm is famous for its wine fields-- vineyards?), we got local wine. Dry Riesling is a thing. It's not all sweet like we're used to in the US.

    Boppard looks to be a nice, lived in town. Some of the others along the train line, Bacharach, Oberwesel, not to mention Rudesheim, are more half-timbered and "fairy-tale". We went for the location and free trains over aesthetics, this time.
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  • Saint Severus

    15 de setembro de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Another town, another church. Maybe more in the future, who knows?

    This one, Saint Severus, is dedicated to Severus of Ravenna, not as our oldest daughter might like to think, Professor Snape of Hogwarts. Excavations have found that the earliest Christian structure dates from the 500s. It was built over an existing Roman structure. The form it has now, comes from the building efforts in the 1100s and 1200s. Of course, it burned down, was rebuilt and et cetera more than once.

    It's still a Catholic Church today. This area along the Rhine, even down into Baden-Wurttemberg is far more Catholic than I had expected. This just shows my complete lack of knowledge re: the outcome of the Thirty Years War. I thought the majority of Germany had gone Protestant, but that's not the case, even taking out Bavaria. My point of view is less from learning (or not learning in this case) the actual history, but because I was raised in a German Lutheran church, and my mother's family was from the very Lutheran areas of Saxony and Thuringia. The fact that there could even be German Catholics was not on my radar, even though I know better, intellectually speaking.

    Anyway: two sehenswert-- noteworthy for sightseeing-- objects in the church: the Thirteenth Century triumphal cross (which I didn't take a close up picture of), and a Thirteenth Century Madonna carved of alder wood. What caught my attention, the stained glass. Predictable. Not medieval. Not even medieval style. I liked it though.
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