• Wolpertinger Wanderings
авг. – сент. 2022

Bavaria and Middle Rhine

22-дневное приключение от Wolpertinger Wanderings Читать далее
  • The bubble in the middle: Holy Blood relic

    Church of Saint James

    13 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    OH NO! Another church? Is she ever going to get tired of going into them and babbling on about them? Well, no, no I am not. Beautiful churches are among the highest things on my list for why I traveled to Europe. It wasn't just for the food and the Alps. So get ready.

    Our first attempt to go into Sankt Jakob didn't work out. They were having a concert for local school kids. In fact, we walked in through the gates with them just after we arrived. But second time was a charm.

    This church is known for a few things. One, it's an official stop on the pilgrimage route to Compestela, another part of the Saint James Way. Two, it has a beautiful Tilman Reimenscheider carved altar piece. Three, said altar piece holds a relic of the Holy Blood. Even though Sankt Jakob has been a Lutheran church for a very long time, these things are still there, though the altar piece and relic are up in the western gallery.

    Built between 1311-1484, it's a lot less Gothic-y than it could be. I blame the Lutherans for that. While they weren't, in general, deranged image destroyers, they did skimp on the decor in a lot of churches. I mean, Rothenburg obviously wasn't Nuremberg, where the burgers who paid for the church interiors wouldn't allow changes. It was a nice church. The altarpiece is beautiful, and there was nice stained glass. The relic of the True Blood, well you can't see much of it, but it was interesting none-the-less. We Orthodox sometimes mock the Catholics for being "too filioque", too concerned with things of the body, mortification of the flesh, relics, and the like. But COME ON, let's be honest. They stole most of the relics when they sacked Constantinople so we really like them too. We're just salty because they have them now, and we don't.

    Without further ado...
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  • The City Walls

    13 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    One of the things Rothenburg is famous for, is its completely intact city walls, dating back to the Middle Ages. So old Count of Tilly didn't destroy them, nor did the Americans during World War II. Two other Bavarian towns share this distinction, the above mentioned Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen. These are, according to all the tourism propaganda, the only three cities/towns to have this distinction of complete walls.

    After seeing the church, Christmas store, the wine swilling mayoral glockenspiel, and eating lunch, and forgoing the other big attraction of the town, the Medieval Torture Museum, we walked the walls. We skipped the museum, by the way, because I read so much about Medieval and Early Modern torture (thank you Professor Edward Peters) while doing my senior thesis and then my potential proposal as a grad student on the witch hunts in Germany and France, that I honestly had no interest in that sort of thing.

    Most of the pictures are views from on the walls, and there are two special ones: actual rare photos of yours truly and Herr Haifisch looking out of one of the many towers.

    It was a long walk, but we had had a big lunch and were planning on some cake later, so, los geht's.
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  • War Memorial Chapel and Gardens

    13 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    On our walk around the walls, we found this nice garden. There was a chapel in it, and inside that, another war memorial. After we came out, a German guy engaged us in conversation. He wanted to talk politics and would NOT GIVE UP, even though we were trying to keep things light. As we were trying to figure out how to extract ourselves politely, an older American guy and his German wife rescued us.

    Turns out, our rescuer was former US army, stationed for years there in Germany. He basically engaged us in conversation and led us away, said something to the other guy, and I'm thinking it was along the lines of, 'Shut it, they're being polite, don't bother them'.

    There was no way I was getting into any sort of political conversation from any side, with any side. I do want to come back here, some day.
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  • Signs and Statues

    13 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The title is self-explanatory, but I'll explain further...

    There were a lot of great signs, as in Nuremberg, and statues on the corners and sides of buildings. We definitely need more of this in the United States, and not just the giant clothes pins and game pieces we have in Philly.Читать далее

  • Beyond the Walls on the Tauber

    13 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    I wanted to see the Tauber River, and the old double bridge over it, so off we went. We passed Saint Wolfgang's (I really regret not naming one of my kids that, it's a great name), and went out through another gate, then along the walls and down.

    It was a lot of down, very hilly. Of course, that was going to mean a lot of up to get back to the town and the car. I didn't take that into consideration until we were at the bottom though, and I was really tired and cranky.

    Too late. It was a nice walk. We found a church down by the water, but it was locked up. Found the bridge, then came back up the hill. I shouldn't complain about the hills, because they provide the proper elevation, soil, etc, the proper terroir, to grow the grapes that make that nice Franconian wine.
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  • More of the Castle

    13 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We came back from Rothenburg tired and a little damp from the on and off rain. We wandered around the castle and the grounds. This really is a very nice, and interesting place. There are so many different rooms to sit in, so much stuff inside them. Of course staying in a castle is pretty amazing for us, so there's also that. We visited the chapel. Colmberg Castle is a popular place for weddings, and I can see why.

    Dinner in the restaurant was good. Herr Hai might have eaten one of the former residents of the castle deer park. He ordered venison goulasch, and we all know where that comes from.

    Again, after dinner, we walked around. Enjoyed the sunset. Watched the deer. Tonight, if we actually wake up and get out of bed, we're going to look for the ghost.
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  • Who You Gonna Call?

    14 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Not us, apparently. During our late night foray around the castle we didn't find any ghosts. We didn't find anything. Except the deer and the sketchy elevator. I guess that's probably for the best, as we left our Holy Water at home, and obviously, you can't bring a proton pack and a ghost trap on a commercial airliner. I see that Ghostbusting isn't a business we'll be going into any time soon.

    The castle was eerily quiet at night. I'm sure that's because all the normal guests were asleep. The ghost obviously was, too.
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  • Herr Haifisch's Day Take One

    14 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Today was the day Herr Haifisch planned. We were going to hike all around the castle, maybe to the next town, have lunch, and hike some more. Well, it didn't work out that way.

    After our late night ghost adventure, we slept a little later. Not that that was a problem late for us is seven o'clock. Breakfast, then straightening up the room, then off to hike. Except we really never found the right trail. Or at least, we didn't find the one we wanted to find, as per the maps.

    So we just walked around, in the rain for a while. Finally, I said, "Look, I don't want to push in the day you planned, so if you just want to keep walking around, that's fine...."

    He seemed really glad to have other suggestions, then didn't like the one I made, "Let's go to Wurzburg."

    We just went back to the castle, and I think he remembered all of my speeches over the years on vacations, "TIME IS MONEY, WE HAVE TO DO SOMETHING." We compromised, and decided to go to Ansbach.

    Why he agreed to that, I have no idea. It was closer than Wurzburg, and he really wasn't enjoying driving, so maybe that was it. Having a rental car is bad enough, having it in a foreign country-- he wasn't a fan. Not to mention the roads are really narrow, and Germans drive really fast, really close, and really aggressively. At least they do here.

    So here's the hike... One good thing, we got to walk on two pilgrimage trails at once, so that was efficient.
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  • Ansbach

    14 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    I thought I was underprepared for Nuremberg and Regensburg, well I was completely unprepared for Ansbach. It wasn't even on our list. Ever. Not even long before I pared it down.

    We knew there was a garden. There was a cafe in the Orangerie. It wasn't far from where we parked. So we went to eat lunch, walked through the garden. We saw the outside of the palace, and I don't know why we didn't go in.

    Tired. Didn't feel like it. Grouchy. That's why. Too much travel.

    But we were there and we were going to see something. So lunch outside, then garden, then wandered the Altstadt. Two churches.

    I did learn that Ansbach was another Hohenzollern town. That promotion to Margrave of Brandenburg really helped them out, I can see that. One century, they're counts, maybe not even counts, maybe simple Freiherrs of some towns and lands in Franken, a couple centuries later, Kings of Prussia, another one, BAM! Emperors of Germany. Not that THAT lasted a long time.
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  • The Hofgarten

    14 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    The Ansbach Residenz, the palace of the Hohenstauffens, has an Orangerie and gardens which were built separately from the palace. This was a place for pretty flowers and parties. We ate in the cafe and walked around the gardens. There was a lot of open space, park like areas, trees, flowers. It wasn't as fussy as the Mirabel gardens in Salzburg. A different look and atmosphere, equally nice.Читать далее

  • Sankt Gumbertus

    14 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Today, this is a Lutheran church. It originated in 748 as a monastery church. Through the Middle Ages, it was enlarged and updated, finally reaching this final Baroque design.

    Of special note, the Swan Knight Chapel, dedicated to the Order of the Swan, a spiritual chivalric order dedicated to the Virgin Mary, founded by Elector Frederick II of Brandenburg. This particular offshoot in Ansbach was established by Margrave Albrecht Achilles in 1459.

    After some of the highly decorated churches further south in Bavaria, this one is a little bit bare. Of course, it's also Lutheran and has been for a long time. The organ and pulpit are very impressive, though, and the glass was nice. The altar painting, figure of St George, and the young knight come from the Chapel of the Swan.
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  • Sankt Johannis

    14 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Sankt Johannis was built in the 1400s. In 1528, the Margrave Georg the Pious decided he (and everyone else in Ansbach) were going to be Evangelical (again, in American terminology, Lutheran). The rest is history.

    The windows, which remind me of the ones from the Lutheran churches in which I went to as a young child, are painted stained glass which were installed in 1903. You can tell from the windows, this is a very Lutheran church. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

    This was our last stop in Ansbach before we gave up. We made a stop on the way back to the castle to get some snacks and food for breakfast. We'd be leaving early the next day, way before breakfast started. We had to return the car to the Frankfurt airport by 10, and it was at least a two plus hour drive.

    Here endeth the day Herr Haifisch planned. Let us never do it again.
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  • Fun on the Autobahn

    15 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    If you'd like a soundtrack to this part of our journey, yes, there's that wonderful song by the German band Kraftwerk, "Fun on the Autobahn". We though, started our drive listening to David Bowie's album "Low".

    And our drive was fun. Until it wasn't.

    We started our drive early. Left our key on the reception desk because no one was up to take it. It was rainy. Foggy. We drove under the portcullis of Burg Colmberg for the last time, making our way to the Autobahn. The A3 to be exact.

    So despite the rain, we were doing well. We even liked going super fast on the Autobahn. Remember, fahrvergnügen? That was all well and good, even in the misty rain. It became not so good when we hit the traffic jam. We really didn't want to pay for another day if we were late returning the car. We had left more than three hours for this trip.

    It became even less okay, seriously bad, when we got off the highway at Frankfurt airport. The traffic was Atlanta Georgia on interstate 85 in the middle of the day bad. Okay, we expected traffic. We live in a big city which has bad traffic. Our daughter had lived outside DC for years, and we drove all over down there. But this bad traffic with stress and worrying about the rental in a foreign country? Yikes.

    We researched all of this. Okay, I did the research, Herr Hai watched the videos and read the sites I found. We watched EXACTLY how to get from the highway to the gas station and then the proper garage where we had to drop off.

    Obviously it didn't work out that way, or I wouldn't have said it went badly. Somehow, we missed the gas station entirely (and you know what that means, returning a rental car not full---$$$$$ and at European prices). We got into a lane that was so wrong-- we were hemmed in by cars and busses. We realized we had messed up when we needed some card to get through a gate-- thankfully the bus driver behind us, after getting out of his bus and banging on the window-- realized we were super dumb Americans-- forced his bus back into the traffic so we could get to where we needed to go.

    Thank you, nice German bus driver.

    So we returned the car, just on time. It didn't matter anyway, because they were so busy with the couple who had take a huge piece out of one wheel and the side panel of the car they were returning, they just waved us off. I'm sure we'll get a bill for the gas, later.

    So we made it. We did some reconnaissance for her flight in a few days. We didn't have a lot of time to transfer from our train to our flight, so we found the air-rail luggage drop off, then the way to the long-distance train station. All good.

    Then, we went to find our train to our next stop, a nice town in the Middle Rhine called Boppard. As the time came nearer, and we were getting our things together (still had that jinky blue bag), there was an announcement.

    The Deutsche Bahn voice intoned from above, "Leibe Kunden und Kundinnen..." garble garble echo echo in the high ceilinged hall...the gist of it was, our train was canceled.

    We were on a tight schedule. Only a few days were left of our vacation and I wanted to see a lot of things. I didn't want to wait another hour for the next train. Thank goodness we had that Russian burner phone, and the DB app! I found another route-- take this train to this little town, run really quickly (hope it's not late), and get on this other one....

    We made the first train, even though we had to go back to the other terminal. It was late, of course. As we pulled into the a station in some suburb of Frankfurt, we saw our other train already there. Okay, now you're going to be on time?

    We ran for it. Once we were on the train, Herr Hai asked, "Are you sure it's the right train?"

    The train conductor was walking up the aisle, and he looked kind of taken aback by our rather freaked out appearance. I tried to ask in German, "Bitte, ist der Zug gehen..." So much bad German there. My ancestors are turning in their graves.

    "Where do you want to go," Herr Schaffner asked, in English.

    All I could think of at this point was a paraphrase from Bram Stoker's "Dracula", "Seeing from their violent demeanor, that they were American..." The real line is "his" instead of their and British/English instead of American.

    Of course by the time I answered, "Boppard," it didn't really matter. The train was already on moving. We were such a mess, he didn't even ask to see our tickets.
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  • Boppard

    15 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    There are a lot of towns along this stretch of the Rhine-- another UNESCO Heritage Area--. We chose Boppard because it was central to what we wanted to see. We only had a few days here, and wanted to make the most of it. Not to mention, they had a guest card in return for your tourist tax that gave you free access to busses and even better, local trains.

    We got off the train and were greeted by a statue of Engelberg Humperdinkt leading two children by the hands. Not the singer, the German composer who wrote the opera Hansel and Gretel. Our apartment was down a narrow side street, not far from river.

    Boppard has been inhabited for a long time. It might have been the site of a Celtic settlement, but we know that the Romans established themselves here after the conquest of Gaul. In 355 while shoring up the west bank of the Rhine against continued attacks by the Germans, a fort was built at the location.

    Later, Boppard became a Free Imperial City, until Emperor Heinrich VII gave the town to his brother, Archbishop of Trier, stripping it of its independence and its town privileges. The residents weren't happy about this, and tried in many different ways to subvert the deal, but to no avail. At one point, they had gained back their freedom, but that was short lived as the Elector of Trier claimed the Emperor who reinstated their charter had overstepped his authority, and attacked the town with 12,000 soldiers.

    As it stands in a strategically significant position, poor Boppard was fought over, invaded, and occupied in almost every war that occurred in the area including by the Swedes (Thirty Years War) and the French (Nine Years' War, War of the Polish Succession, Jacobin Wars, Napoleonic Wars), and the Americans, who used the town as a bridgehead across the Rhine in World War II.

    So we found out apartment, took care of the check in/guest card paperwork, and then went walking. It was a while after lunch at this point, and someone (me) was getting cranky. After that, we found the Roman ruins, the Templar House, Saint Severus church, and enjoyed the scenery.

    It's the end of chanterelle season here, so the place we ate on the square had a nice spätzle dish with chanterelle cream sauce on the menu. Her Hai got that, and this time, I got the schnitzel. Since this is a wine growing region (Bopparder Hamm is famous for its wine fields-- vineyards?), we got local wine. Dry Riesling is a thing. It's not all sweet like we're used to in the US.

    Boppard looks to be a nice, lived in town. Some of the others along the train line, Bacharach, Oberwesel, not to mention Rudesheim, are more half-timbered and "fairy-tale". We went for the location and free trains over aesthetics, this time.
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  • Saint Severus

    15 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Another town, another church. Maybe more in the future, who knows?

    This one, Saint Severus, is dedicated to Severus of Ravenna, not as our oldest daughter might like to think, Professor Snape of Hogwarts. Excavations have found that the earliest Christian structure dates from the 500s. It was built over an existing Roman structure. The form it has now, comes from the building efforts in the 1100s and 1200s. Of course, it burned down, was rebuilt and et cetera more than once.

    It's still a Catholic Church today. This area along the Rhine, even down into Baden-Wurttemberg is far more Catholic than I had expected. This just shows my complete lack of knowledge re: the outcome of the Thirty Years War. I thought the majority of Germany had gone Protestant, but that's not the case, even taking out Bavaria. My point of view is less from learning (or not learning in this case) the actual history, but because I was raised in a German Lutheran church, and my mother's family was from the very Lutheran areas of Saxony and Thuringia. The fact that there could even be German Catholics was not on my radar, even though I know better, intellectually speaking.

    Anyway: two sehenswert-- noteworthy for sightseeing-- objects in the church: the Thirteenth Century triumphal cross (which I didn't take a close up picture of), and a Thirteenth Century Madonna carved of alder wood. What caught my attention, the stained glass. Predictable. Not medieval. Not even medieval style. I liked it though.
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  • Rüdesheim am Rhein

    16 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Today was the big day on the Rhine, when we were going to take our boat trip through the Rhine Gorge and look at the castles. As it was the off season, they weren't running as frequently, so we had to time it right. We took the train up to Koblenz, then down the east side of the Rhine to Rüdesheim.

    Rüdesheim is a pretty little town. It was a Celtic settlement, a Roman bridgehead, a Frankish town, and pretty much existed here making wine and shipping things down the Rhine for centuries. These days, it's known for its wine, Asbach brandy, a privately run international Christmas market, and as the jumping off place for visiting the Benedictine abbey of Saint Hildegard (as in Hildegard von Bingen, which is right across the river), and the Niederwald Denkmal, a monument of a triumphant Germania looking over the Rhine, marking the Unification of Germany in 1871.

    We didn't visit any of those places today. Instead, we were going to buy our tickets, and take a boat ride up the Rhine. Except when we got there, the boat had been cancelled. Okay, well, thankfully, there was another company doing the trip, though a bit later. We bought tickets from them, and had a nice conversation about the Grateful Dead with the man who sold them to us.

    Now we had some time on our hands, so we decided to walk around the town. It's very pretty, as I mentioned. Half timbered buildings, narrow alleys, grapevines everywhere. Lots of shops, places to stay, places to eat. Lots of tourists. LOTS. It's a regular stop for the river cruise ships and tour busses, where they load the passengers into the tram and take them up to the toy cabinet/ museum.

    We almost got run over by one of said trams, wandering around. We went down the Drosselgasse, the main street of wine shops and restaurants. Then we walked around a bit above the town in the rows of grapevines.

    We decided to head back, since we didn't want to miss our boat. The sights from the river were the main reason we came up this way, and the ticket was only valid for that sailing. I definitely didn't want to pay for it twice, because it wasn't cheap.
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  • The Rhine Gorge I

    16 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Oh great, I'm sure everyone is thinking, another gorge! Another boat ride! Such fun.

    And it was fun, despite the no pole dancing sign on the top deck.

    The weather was looking iffy, lots of dark clouds gathering, but we were going to take this boat ride. Nothing was going to stop us from seeing the UNESCO World Heritage area: Middle Rhine Gorge. Not the weather. Not pirates. Not the large group of German co-workers who were maybe here on some team-building exercise.

    We got on the boat, and went to the top, outside, open deck. It wasn't a long trip, distance wise, maybe twenty miles. We were only doing the castle heavy part of the area. It would take about two hours, as the boat criss crossed the Rhine on its journey from Rüdesheim to Sankt Goar.

    So why, you might ask, are there so many castles crammed into this twenty mile stretch of river? One word: TAXES. All right, there are probably other reasons, but the mighty (and not so mighty) lords of the region needed money, and one of the ways they got it was by collecting tolls on cargo moving up and down the Rhine. Sometimes, they did this legally, with approval of overlords, the Emperor, or whoever. Sometimes, not so much.

    There are a lot of romantic stories of rival castles/families (the Cat and Mouse castles), brigands, pirates, and all of that. You can even, if you're so inclined, download a guide and listen to a description of what all the castles are called, what interesting things happened at various kilometer markings. Usually, I'd go for all of this in a big way, but I was tired, and just wanted to look at things. I know, huge loss.

    So part I, I think it goes just passed Assmannshausen.
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  • Rhine Gorge II: The Gorge Strikes Back

    16 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    No, it didn't really, I was just thinking of punchy titles, and instead of going with something historical or literary, I went with a rip off of a cheap space-ship thing.

    More castles and towns. Good thing no one is collecting tolls anymore, because there are a LOT of these places. The pictures here, aren't even half of them. The seventh picture is from a town called Bacharach. It's a youth hostel, but it was full when we looked into booking there. Maybe another time.Читать далее

  • Rhine Gorge III: The Return of the Gorge

    16 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    This title could work for either great literature or the space movie.

    More castles, including the famous one in the middle, Pflatzgrafenstein. As you noticed, a lot of these castles are actually just ruins, though a few are privately owned, or hotels.Читать далее

  • Sankt Goar

    16 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    A few last pictures of the Rhine Gorge, and then Sankt Goar.

    From the boat: the Lorelei, a narrow passage around a bend where boats would often wreck. This led to stories of sketchy lady fae luring sailors to their deaths. If we come back, maybe we'll hike it.

    As for Sankt Goar, there was a settlement here when the Romans arrived. People remained after they withdrew. The town got its name after a monk named Goar settled there to minister to the locals and the transient boatmen along the Rhine. After his death, his grave became a site of pilgrimage.

    The town passed through the same power struggles many of these towns did. At one point, it was the focal point of a family struggle between brothers who inherited different parts of the Landgravate of Hesse. One besieged the other, with the help of the Holy Roman Emperor, leading to the sack of the town by Spanish troops. In the late 1700s it was over run by French Jacobins, and then Napoleonic forces. It finally went to Prussia in 1815. Yes, the Hohenzollerns again.

    Our objective was Rheinfels Castle, mostly ruin, part hotel. We walked around the town a bit and ate some lunch first. I have to say, besides the really bad döner in Mittenwald, this was the worst food we had. Wine was good though.

    We'd be coming back to Sankt Goar for the Rhine in Flames festival tomorrow night, though it's apparently going to be much reduced from what it used to be.
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  • Rheinfels Castle

    16 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We made it up to the castle. Construction on Rheinfels began in 1245, but Count Diether V of Katzenelnbogen. When his line died out, it passed to the control of the Landgraves of Hesse, along with the town below. It was the biggest castle along this portion of the Rhine, covering five times the area it does currently. At its height, it housed up to 600 people in peacetime, during times of war and siege, up to 4500. As with all castles, it was self contained with religious structures, brewery, bakery, apothecary, livestock, water access, et cetera. In short, everything needed to survive a siege.

    In the 1800s, after the Napoleonic wars and the redrawing of Europe (thank you Chancellor Metternich), it went to the... you guessed it, the Hohenzollerns and the Kingdom of Prussia. After World War I, it reverted to the town, The loophole was it could never be used for profit, and when they rented part of it out to be made into a hotel, the Hohenzollern heir (yeah, they're still kicking around), Georg Friedrich, Prince of Prussia, sued to get it back. He wanted it, he said, to be used for the good of the community. Though he had no real standing, the city settled with him, promising to use the grounds and money made from it to help disadvantaged youth working with his wife's, Princess Kira, foundation.

    Today, there's a small fee to get in and wander around, and visit the small museum in the former chapel. It's very impressive, as all of these fortifications have been. I think I'm more of a castle person, even if they're just ruins, than a palace person. But then again, give me my little house with indoor plumbing, running water, electricity, and central heating any day.
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  • Rheinfels Castle 2

    16 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    A few more shots from the castle. The views over the Rhine are sweeping, but then again, that's why they built the thing here in first place.

  • Traumschleife Elfenlay

    17 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Hiking time. Not the famed Rheinweg, which runs down the Rhine, but one of the other touted trails in the area: the Traumschleife Elfenlay. In English, something like the Dream Loop Elvenlay/ Elvenlayer. So maybe we'd see some elves, who knows?

    It was a nice trail. Some elevation. Somehow I missed the photo op of Bopparder Hamm-- the bend in the river-- and the place where it's supposed to look like four lakes. I think it's because we wandered off the official trail and ended up somewhere else.
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  • Dream Loop part two

    17 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We finished up the loop, if we were ever really on it the entire time. I know we passed a few of the things we were supposed to, the hut, the viaduct. Grapes. Lots of them on the way up.

    When we came back down, I was tired. We went back into Boppard, and had a nice lunch. Stuffed schnitzel this time, mine with spinach and cheese, and the owner made sure to ask me in a mixture of German and English, "spinat, you know? Spinat in schnitzel." And I said, in kind of German, "Ja, ich kenne Spinat. Spinach." And that satisfied her. It was good, spinach and cheese. Herr Hai got some Italianish version of pork schnitzel. Good wine, beautiful view.

    But then the weather changed. It got really windy. Windy enough that the tables were blowing over. This didn't bode well for our evening plans, returning to Sankt Goar for the Rhine in Flames festival.
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  • The Rhine in Flames

    17 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We lucked out with our timing here. The Rhine in Flames festival just happened to be taking place in Sankt Goar, a few towns down the train line, when we planned to be in the area. Rhine in Flames takes place over the course of the spring-autumn in four different locations along the Rhine. The main draw is the fireworks and boat parade, but there's also food, live music, and et cetera.

    Herr Hai picked the fireworks pictures, except the last one. I decided on that. Back to my earlier Patton reference, that one looked like someone taking a pot shot at the castle on the hill.

    It was a bit smaller than I anticipated in terms of vendors, food, wine sellers (we are in a wine region, after all), but some of this might be due to just coming back after Covid. It was a good time despite being small, and then the rain. And it rained. Hard.

    We got back from our hike, and I was cold and tired, so we took a nap. It turned out to be a much longer nap than I planned, and Herr Hai didn't wake me up. So we didn't go back to Sankt Goar and wander around or do anything else I had planned after lunch.

    By the we got off the train, drizzling. By the time we got to the river, pouring. We ran into another American couple and talked for a while. They were retired army (her, officer, formerly stationed in Germany) who ran a small winery wherever they came from, and had come mainly for the wine. They were headed off the next day for Oktoberfest.

    We went to get some food, and found the band. Yay. German traditional music. See short clip below, the entire four minutes on you tube whenever i get it up there. We walked around some more, but because we were late getting out, which turned out to be a good thing, we didn't have to wait for long for the festivities to begin.

    There were boats out on the Rhine, some private, some belonging to the various companies that ferry tourists up and down to look at the castles. There were the ferries used as public transit (the only way to cross the Rhine between Koblenz and maybe as far down as Mainz, as there are no bridges, unless you want to do a Patton and build one yourself). Everything was decorated, and at some point they started sailing around. Looked nice.

    Then came the fireworks. They were long. Loud. The blasts reverberated off the stone hills. Well done, too. No gimmicky projections or music, just pure light and noise. Okay, some Wagner might have been in order, Mahler, I don't know, something brash and German. Great job all around. It started really pouring at the end, and with a lot of other people, we booked it back to the train.

    End of festival. Good thing too because again, I was totally wiped out. I'm like in the "Berenstain Bears: Too Much Vacation".
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