• Kim Roberts
  • Eric Zelz

Caminho Português & España

Traveling to see family in Portugal, explore Porto, walk the Camino to Santiago, and then on to Finisterre. After that, we'll see friends in Villafranca del Bierzo and Astorga, and then on to León, which we missed our last time here, due to COVID. Read more
  • Trip start
    September 22, 2024

    Waiting at Logan

    September 22, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    4.4k👣

    At Logan airport early, waiting for Iberian Air to open their counters so we can check my backpack through.

    Had a WONDERFUL time with Lisa & Dave & the rest of the fam at Annis & Adam's wedding. So joyous and beautiful!!

    Now off for Portugal & Spain! 🇵🇹 🇪🇸 🧡❤️🧡💚🧡
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  • Day 3: The Market & Óbidos

    September 24, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    12.6k👣 15Z🧡

    Granola & fruit for breakfast
    Sink laundry, dry on outdoor line
    Walk up to ATM, which rejected Joe's card but welcomed mine 😅
    Lunch at CITRUS. Smoked salmon, poached egg, quinoa on spinach salad with mango
    Wander through park. Peacocks, swans (white & black), and mallards
    Bolted (Portugal's Uber) to Óbidos Castle
    Walked to top; overlook town, vineyards, train line. Barnyard sounds from below.
    Pastel de bacalau (fried cod cake) & ginjha (cherry liqueur) in a chocolate cup
    Tourists from all over in the streets. Lots languages
    Light rain
    Bookstore in a barn
    Bus & walk home
    Chill
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  • Day 3, Óbidos, pt 3

    September 24, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Tiles (Azulejos) and flowers

  • Day 3, pt 4. Royal Gorkha

    September 24, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Dinner at the Nepali restaurant Royal Gorkha: momas, byriani, chow mein
    Errands at L'Eclerc, including QCrane Plus, for one of the five (5!!) Pope dolls
    Cookies, candy & late night conversations

    12.6k👣 15Z
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  • Day 4: A trip to Staples & Foz do Arelho

    September 25, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    10.5k👣 5Z🧡

    Slept in today to 11am (!!!)
    Overcast, with light rain
    After brunch, Joe & I walked down to Staples. We were looking for a way to attach a plastic envelope holding our baggage sherpa instructions to each of our bags. Spent a good while looking for a Goldilocks solution until we decided what might be good enough instead. Meanwhile, I drooled over the array of back-to-school supplies, including beautiful art materials (!!!).
    After a lunch of leftovers, we walked to the train station 🚉 to purchase our tix to Porto for tomorrow
    Caught a Bolt from there to Foz JUST IN TIME for the sunset 🌇, hence all today's pix along the boardwalk there
    Got to see windsurfing and foils in action
    Restaurants in Foz were all closing (or serving €60 dinners😵‍💫), so we Bolted and taxied back to Caldas for poke bowls and burgers instead
    Up early tomorrow to catch the 6:13am train!
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  • Day 5: O Porto

    September 26, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    14.9k 👣 4Z🧡

    4:45am wake up
    Walk to Caldas train station - they had constructed one elevated walkway!
    6:13am train to Coimbra, then part 2 to Porto
    Tiles in the train station
    Dropped off packs at NannyBag
    Had a Golden Latte at SmiliCoffee while we planned what to do

    Stopped in a cork store
    Uphill to Clérigos Church Igreja & Torre dos Clérigos - if you climb the 220+ STEEP stairs, you get a 360° view. We did not. The tower is an iconic symbol of Porto
    We did stop in and hear the pipe organ play a bit
    Passed a store where they make pasteis de nata
    Wanted to stop in at Livraria Lello bookstore, but we'd already walked too far downhill and didn't want to go back up 🤣
    Miradouro de Vitoria - lovely! Complete with violinist playing classics like the Beatles 🎻

    Downhill further to the riverside aka Gaia
    Lunch at Bite!: Foccacia, pork & cheese for me, sardines & toast for Joe
    Walked across the Luis I Bridge and down along market
    Saw a Bordallo II rabbit & sketched. Others wandered further and overheard some fado music

    Others raced back to pick up the backpacks; Martha & I took the funicular up the hill
    E were all beat, so we regrouped for coffee & tea, again at SmiliCoffee- brownie too! Super yum

    Bolted to our AirBnB to drop bags, then Bolted back TO THE SAME NEIGHBORHOOD WE WERE IN for dinner. Middle Eastern place called Gharb.
    Ate outside. Best Middle Eastern food I've ever had
    But no desserts were dairy-free for Martha, so we stopped by Mumps' favorite gelato place called Amorino. Delish.
    Bolted home. All 3 Bolt drivers were great, 2 who were really enjoyable.
    Bedtime at midnight 😴 😴😴
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  • Day 6: A Day of Food & Wine & Walking

    September 27, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    16.9k👣 46Z🧡

    Joe: Anybody want some bread? This baguette is turning into a ba-rock. ... Or maybe a Rock-ette.

    Breakfast of leftover foccacia sandwich for me & sardines for Joe.
    Bolted to our first activity of the day: a port wine tour at Graham's.
    But first! Coffee... with pastries, of course
    After the tour of the caves was a tasting of 3 ports, each paired with chocolate, cheese, and pastry (pastel de nata, second of the day)
    On the way down fron Graham's, we saw an artists' cooperative . Martha got an invite to hold an installation there!
    We climbed up & down hills so we could cross the UPPER level of the Luis I Bridge.
    Made our way to the restaurant Velham Mais Cinco, recommended by Patrícia, M&T's landlady
    Had the fabled francesinha, a so-called heart attack on a plate. It was like a panini with steak and fried egg, covered in cheese and drowning in a savory sauce. Oh, and it came with fries. 🤣🤣 And we had some vinho verde (green wine). So then we had to have the "Best Chocolate Cake in the World." Needless to say, we left VERY satisfied. It fueled us for the rest of the day, as predicted by our port wine tour guide Maximilian.
    Suddenly, I realized it was almost time for our fado performance, so we hoofed it (downhill, fortunately) to a stone cavern called A Casa do Fado.
    Got there with 2 min. to spare. !!
    Carla Teles was our cantora. The two guitarists were also FABULOUS. The glass of port was nice, too.
    Had to finish off the night with passion fruit gelato.
    The Bolt driver who picked us up drove like a bat outa hell and kept up a running commentary on the other drivers on the road in Português 😵‍💫😵‍💫😵‍💫
    Doing laundry was a team effort 😅😅 We start our Caminho at the Cathedral tomorrow. 🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️
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  • Day 7: Porto to Foz to Matosinho

    September 28, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    25.1k👣 25Z🧡

    Tchaubrigada = Tchau + Obrigada = Goodbye, and thank you

    Packed bags ready for pick-up by 7:15am
    Took Ibuprofen
    Breakfast at café down the street: carrot tart
    Returned to AirBnB for final washing up & cleaning
    Subway & walk to Cathedral from Francos to Trinidad; change to yellow line to São Bento (St. Benedict, but we prefer to think of him as the patron saint of lunchboxes)
    Got credentials at Cathedral
    Caught the 11am Mass! Eric & I walked through the doors, and they closed them behind us
    Down down down the stairs to the river
    Walked along the Douro River towards the ocean
    10.4k👣 by lunch at 13:15: smoked salmon & egg tosta for me, pork tosta for Joe. Shandies (beer & lemonade) for all.
    Strolled along the river to Foz do Douro, where the river meets the ocean. Lighthouse; HUGE waves
    Coffee break at 15:45 @ tavi. Espresso with a splash of milk (aka pingo), served with ONE ice cube, which I then drowned with the espresso & the milk that was brought to Joe & Abby's tea). Iced coffee is NOT a thing here.
    Hips sore.
    Boardwalk along the ocean. SoCal vibes. Trees, walkways, rotunda along the roadway
    Matosinhos is a surfer's town!
    Checked in at Pensão Central
    Took Ibuprofen
    Interesting discussion of nighttime photo of bridge with concierge: Ponte do Luis I (Luis Premiero)? Or Dona Maria Pia?
    Dinner at café (in front)/charcuterie restaurant (in back)
    Caldo verde was super delish, as were starters (that we didn't ask for, but appear on the bill nonetheless, per local custom) and vinho verde (like white wine, but lighter somehow)
    Chicken plate & grilled sardines plate were generous and delicious
    Joe really confused the restaurant host when he ordered another bowl of caldo verde (potato & kale soup) for dessert
    The rest of us chose chocolate mousse or pudim frances (flan)
    Continued interesting bridge discussion with evening concierge (we were right: it WAS the Luis I!)
    Up at 7am tomorrow. Bags down by 8. Will return to tonight's café for breakfast before setting out on tomorrow's walk.
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  • Day 8: Beach front & blisters

    September 29, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    22.4k👣 7Z🧡

    Breakfast at the same spot we had dinner last night: pastries and fruit juices (orange & melon)
    Resumed walk along seaside
    Beautiful boardwalk
    Rocky coastline, sand dunes
    Martha felt ill, but she & Tim finally caught up to our party feeling better
    Coffee break at a men'ssoccer club. Beginning to use my Portuguese 🙃
    Lots of folks out cycling and playing football (aka soccer)
    Met Toby from Bavaria, who walked with us a while
    Obelisk
    Quick painting sketch at Praia de Angerais
    Blisters started aching, so finally stuffed a bunch of hikers wool around them
    Met up with Joe and decided to lance them, then bandage
    Decided I would have to stop at lunch
    The group ordered chicken for us! So lunch was waiting when we got there
    The rest continued on, while Martha and I Bolted the last 6 miles to our hostel
    "Venceslau" is the family's great great grandfather's first name. Not uncommon in Brazil, but rare in Portugal. So now everyone in the family is including his name in their children's names.
    Roman aqueduct is visible from our window.
    Planned to sketch, but found myself napping instead. 😅😅
    Restaurants are down by the river
    Dinner at Portuguesia. Salad, broccoli rabe, salad mista, steak on a skewer, and sangria. Mousse and cookie cake for dessert
    Waitress started rolling her eyes when we were too busy yacking to check out the menu. She had to come back several times. She was confused when I only ordered salad & veggies, and the Abby only wanted soup & salad. 🤣 We equally had trouble ordering dessert 🤣🤣
    Dinner conversation turned to politics: immigration in Germany, military service, Trump, and the electoral college
    We wanted to tease her by asking for separate checks, but didn't want to be mean.
    Toby offered me needle and thread to lance my blisters... 😬😬
    We hope we'll meet up in Santiago. He's continuing on the Coastal route; we head inland tomorrow.
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  • Day 9: Cobblestones and cornfields

    September 30, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    27.1k👣 80Z🧡 !!!

    Breakfast with the gang before setting off for Rates (pron. Rha-tez)
    Left Martha & Tim around 9:30am to return to Caldas
    Walked along the Roman aqueduct for quite a while
    Through cornfields and villages with salamanders on the stone walls
    Ready for a break around 11:30am, but no rest in sight, so we kept on walking.
    Joe thought maps.me had identified a café not far off route around 1pm, so I asked a local (in Portuguese!!) who was just getting down from his truck if there was a store nearby, and he replied, yes, just keep left, go through town, etc. (First real convo in Português!!!)
    We walked just a bit more towards town (keeping left as instructed) and decided to confirm what I understood of his reply 😅 with Google Maps, and we realized he was answering AS IF we had a car. 🤣🤣🤣
    So we holed up at a little bus shelter with a narrow bench in the shade across from Marian shrine, and rested.
    Ate some nuts; drank some mango juice.
    After 20 min, we hobbled back to the Camino as indicated on the Wise Pilgrim app, and climbed up through a beautiful eucalyptus and Tasmanian blue gum tree forest with heather and gorse
    Few cars, but they came with SPEED
    Came down to the edge of Rates
    Romanesque church from 1100 BCE
    Chapel and pillory (!!!!) in Old.Town square

    Wonderful hosts greeted us at Casa Mattos around 3:30pn. Perfect timing.
    Used my Portuguese AGAIN (!!!) to communicate (minimally 💙)
    The husband was born in this house
    His family has been here for 4 generations
    They have a small garden of grapes and make wine
    They'll go to Fatuma for the Feast of th3 Assumption on 8 Dec
    Most folks locally have been to Fatima
    Not so much folks in their 20s or 30s, but they come back to the church when older
    All of this in their garden where we hung the clothes we had washed after arriving and showering (Before that, I smelled BAD 🤪)
    The wife used Google Translate by speaking into her tablet and having it translate into English. I was mostly able to respond in Portuguese
    Met Angie from Dusseldorf, Germany, and invited her to join us for dinner at Macado's Bar in town (5 min away)
    Wonderful dinner of mushroom risotto (me) and pizza (Joe) with sangria (Abby, Joe, and me)
    Wonderful conversation with Angie
    Signed the bar's guest book with an image of the Space Needle (I drew)and a peregrino with a shell around their neck (courtesy of Eric)
    Angie was grateful not to have to think of what to write 🤣
    Home and IN BED by 10!! Ideal.
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  • Day 10: Liquid Sunshine

    October 1, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌫 20 °C

    31.5k👣 78Z🧡
    15.4km / 9.6mi

    Not long kilometerage as Camino days go, but I really slowed down the last 3 km. Rain? Sore feet? Sore hip? Still, my heart is full. Meeting wonderful folks, walking scenic paths along forest dirt roads or small village cobbled streets. Even the rain is mostly a light mist, and the terrain is flat to gently rolling. More Camino signage, more pilgrims on The Way today.

    Breakfast in the dining room: coffee, bread, and cheese.
    Tears from Angie as she headed out
    Bom Caminho & blessings from Sr. & Sra. Mattos as we headed out at 9am
    Rates is halfway between Fatima and Santiago; blue arrows pointing one way for Fatima, yellow for Santiago
    Passed a park dedicated to pilgrims
    More cornfields and vineyards

    Water pouring from downspouts and roofs
    Collard greens (perhaps?)
    The Camino often paralleled commonly used roads, joining with them at times
    The cars and trucks were FAST! We were glad when the route took us through less-traveled roads 😵‍💫
    Roadside shrines

    30 min lunch break just before noon !!! Had a bean potage soup 🍲 and a slice of pound cake. So good!! Felt great to sit down.
    Met other pilgrims from Canada, New England, Netherlands, and Denmark.

    The small café had a big Elvis poster, along with memorabilia left by prior pilgrims, so I tucked a trading card with a painting of the view of the Sound from a Seattle-Bainbridge ferry

    Saw a passionfruit plant growing outside someone's home !!!
    Walked the end with an Irish pilgrim (who lives in Spain now). Her feet & legs were really done in by the cobblestones, too

    Crossed a medieval bridge into Barcelos
    Home of the black rooster that is a symbol of Portugal, much like the chickens in Santo Domingo on the Camino Frances route

    Staying in a fancy 3-star hotel, Hotel Bagoeria near the town square
    Shower felt TERRIFIC
    Church bells ringing every hour
    Reluctant to get dressed for dinner; it feels so good to rest!
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  • Day 11: 100% Rain

    October 2, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌫 20 °C

    Barcelos - Lugar de Corgo

    27.5k👣 42Z🧡

    Up at 6:30am to be ready with bags pack for pick up by 8
    Breakfast at 7:30: lovely buffet with rolls, muffins, cake (!!), yogurt, slices of ham & cheese, slices of melon, kiwi, and oranges, along with coffee
    Joe absconded with a muffin in his napkin - it was delicious at lunchtime!
    Got the number of a taxi just in case
    Headed out in to the rain
    A local helped us find the Camino in town
    Sore feet, stiff hips, full heart
    More vineyards and cornfields along the cobblestone path
    To the tune of "Clang, Clang , Clang Went the Trolley:"
    Squish, squish, squish went my sneakers.
    Vroom, vroom, vroom went the cars.
    On our way to Santiago.
    Bom Caminho, wherever you are!

    Left the old town to large apartment buildings into more retail and residential areas
    Greeted 2 mail carriers on motorbikes. One asked what my piles were for. In whatever Portuguese I could pull up, I said I used them to go up steep (high), but since the way was all roads here, I didn't really need them. With that, they wished us a Bom Caminho and puttered off.
    Cobblestone, cobblestone, and more cobblestone. Appreciated having Compeed on my heel to prevent the "meat tenderized" effect of cobblestones
    Came to a decision: shorter, but cobblestones (so less traffic), OR
    longer on asphalt with more cars. We chose cobblestones.

    Climbed a hill to a fancy restaurant. Popped our heads in to see if they were open to use their bathroom. They weren't, and we didn't. Only a km up the road they promised. With Joe's upset stomach, that was NOT what we wanted to hear.

    But we persevered and finally found the WC at a beautiful church with a large covered open area in front. Lunched on leftovers there with Tony and Helen, 2 Aussies with great attitudes. Tony was packing his mandolin and guitar inside his backpack! Told him about our concert on 19 Oct; maybe we'll see him there.

    Fueled after a WC stop & lunch
    After some movement, Joe's GI started hollering. Luckily, we found an albergue called Casa de Santiago. The host understood completely, and Joe was feeling better after using the restroom. The host said it was still 10 km to go. When I countered that I believed it was 8km, she waggled her head: maybe 8, maybe 8-10, but maybe 10. Uh oh.
    We found a home goods store (like Home Depot) after a km or so, and decided to ask there for help calling a taxi. At 3:30 and another 8 km to go, we just decided getting in with time to clean up was more important than walking, and since I was beginning to limp with very short steps, it seemed like the smart thing to do.
    After finding no Bolts and then no Ubers in the area, I tried to call a taxi service BUT was reminded I'd only gotten data, not phone minutes on my eSIM. We went into the nearby Home Depot and got a young clerk's help in ordering a taxi from Barcelos
    What we had walked between 9 - 3:30, the taxi was able to do in 15 min !!! And 10 min after that, we were at Casa de Fernanda.

    Fernanda is a force of nature. With her husband Jacinto, they offered freshly made hors d'oeuvres (fritters and grilled peppers - only 1 in 10 is spicy 🤪), a full dinner (soup, bread, roast chicken, veggies, rice & beans, white and red wine, with port and chocolate biscuits for dessert), followed by "fire water" !!! more port and wide-ranging conversation. Food production to health care to social understanding in Japanese society, we were all over the place.

    More to share tomorrow. Suffice it to say it was WONDERFUL.

    Taking tomorrow off to let toes heal a bit.
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  • Day 12: Ponte de Lima

    October 3, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    9k👣 5Z🧡

    Today's route was only 13.9km/8.9 mi.s, but my blisters are so sore, I decided to give them a break. I swaddled them in Compeed and hikers wool and wore sandals all day. The biggest help was the taxi ride 🚓 from Fernanda’s albergue with Hélder (silent H). Talked immigration and got a Portuguese lesson as well: Os meus pés doem. My feet hurt. 🤣🤣

    Fernanda is a bona fide Camino Angel - even has her picture in Brierly's book! It was he who encouraged her to charge €30/night, as running it as donativo was not covering expenses. She called the taxi for me, and then was chatting it up with this guy about folks in town before she identified me as "the nice lady, a very nice lady" who needed the ride. 🤣🤣

    Hélder gave me some background on the town as we got closer: celebrating its 900th anniversary next year, first town chartered in Portugal, statue of founder Dona Theresa. Once at the medieval bridge, I walked across in the misty rain to the church of São Antonio. Saw the Bom Caminho statue of St. James, and then explored inside the church. Walked back across the bridge to the plaça where I found a good covered spot for sketching at a café. With my galão and pastel de nata, I was all set.

    Just about finished the sketch when there was A&E walking towards me, who were soon followed by Mel and Joe! We had some tuna empanadas and bebidas, and set out uphill to find our guest house.

    This place is GORGEOUS, with dark wood furniture and glass chandeliers. Isabella is a great host, and got us all oriented to where to find the laundromat and a couple of places for dinner.

    I promptly fell asleep and never heard Joe leave with our laundry in hand. We set out for dinner, and I realized still how much my feet hurt.

    It's disappointing. I didn't come all this way to taxi across the country. Only 2 more days in Portugal too! So maybe I can try to walk a bit tomorrow. But I will definitely be calling Hélder for a lift over tomorrow's 400m climb and drop down into Rubiaes. (Another albergue and communal dinner tomorrow!!) I sure hope my blisters heal quickly.

    On the way to dinner, we stopped in at a farmácia where I worked really hard to describe in Portuguese which Compeed I needed for my blisters. Once rung up, the pharmacist said to me in perfect English, "That will be €..." I had to laugh. 🤣🤣

    We ate at a place named after São Nicolaus... with all the associated artwork. It must have been a banquet hall for weddings and such, but we had the place to ourselves! The salad & fish (hake) were excellent, and we even got pudim (flan) for dessert. Started dreaming of our next adventure together, even if it means it's an art trip for me and a walking trip for the others. 🥺
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  • Day 13: Rio Labruja

    October 4, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    18.3k👣 31Z🧡
    12.4km

    Headed downhill from the Gloriosa Guest House in Ponte de Lima, passing all the kids & parents getting to school.
    Stopped for a lovely apple & raisin pastry with a galão (latte) at a fancy pastelaria
    Took a look another church Igreja Matriz de Santa Maria dos Anjos. I definitely prefer this Gothic/Romanesque style to gaudy Baroque
    Set out in the misting rain across the Ponte de Lima bridge that I painted yesterday
    Took a right, which led us fairly quickly to paths alongside vineyards and cornfields and streams
    Today was mostly on dirt paths through forests. Towns and highways were never far away, as the Camino path crossed under the highway above several times
    Feet felt a LOT better than the last few days. I think the Compeed is finally working!
    Still, 3.5 hrs in, with no breaks, at the last stop before the 400m climb started in earnest, and I knew the wise thing to do was to call a cab. So , following some juice, yogurt and banana, I wished Joe happy trails and broke out my art kit.
    Who should come along but Tony, the Aussie we met yesterday at lunch in front of the church!
    We chatted while he fueled up, and I sketched
    When he set out, I called the taxi driver Hélder and, 15 min later, I was on my way across and around the alto to our albergue for the night Ninho The Pilgrim Nest
    More time for sketching!!
    Talked with Yvgeny from Israel by way of Germany, who was moving to Switzerland (which, I learned, is NOT part of the EU) and a couple of Canadians, Germans, and Belgians
    Helped out Marlene by welcoming in and orienting a couple sets of pilgrims, one of which was Abby, Eric & Joe!
    After they showered and did laundry, Marlene brought out some vinho verde, a white sparkling wine from the region
    Dinner upstairs at the long table was delish: spicy buckwheat (?) pancakes, bread rolls, salad, more vinho verde, a HUGE pot of chicken and pasta, and a custard dessert
    Conversation got quite emotional when Nina from Lebanon got into describing how her family has been impacted by the war, the corruption of Hezbollah, the failure of the Lebanese government to do anything about it. Yvgeny from Israel started in about Hamas and Gaza and the West Bank, but ended up holding his tongue as Nina acknowledged what an emotional topic it was for her
    After dinner, 5 women and 1 guy went in to wash the dishes, and we were done in no time
    With that, I joined Joe in getting ready for bed.
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  • Day 14: Tui

    October 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    3.4k👣 10Z🧡
    Taxi from albergue with Paulo. (This 30 min drive would have taken me HOURS to walk.) He's been teaching himself English, and now is in demand for cab services

    2 Camino angels helping at clinic. (Joe's GI has been acting up for 4 days now.)
    One ran and got us a mask. One spoke English and helped Joe get us registered. (We tried twice to let others go first, but the person registering us wouldn't allow it. 🥺)
    So glad we got travelers insurance this time rather than relying on Joe's company's so-called insurance option!
    The doctor's visit was interesting. Waited for 20 min or so. Followed the MD into an exam room where he promptly sat down with his hands folded on the desk, looking expectantly at Joe. So Joe just launched off in English about his symptoms. Luckily, the doc knew some English and was able to ask some questions ... some of which I had to clarify for J.

    When all was said and done, we headed across the street for some Aquarius, a sports drink to replace lost electrolytes, and some other comestibles, as we are staying for a rest day in Tui & Valença tomorrow.

    Visited a café for our first "tortilla" (baked egg & potato). Joe got "té rojo" (NOT negro, as I had supposed 😋). I got my first café con leche. Oh happy day.

    Got permission to check in to our apartment early and settled down for some naps. (WHY am I so tired??) A&E walked into town later - just as I had opened the old style "French" windows and looked down into the road!)

    Dinner is something light in the apartment tonight. Hopefully, Joe will feel better tomorrow and we can check out the old town here and that of Valença across the Rio Miño/Minho.

    Raining something fierce right now. I think this is our weather for the foreseeable future. 🌧🌧🌧
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  • Day 15: Rest Day in Tui & Valença

    Oct 6–14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    12.7k👣 16Z🧡

    We did need to rest, and both slept to 10:30!
    When we finally got moving, we had a bite of bananas, yogurt, and croissant for breakfast
    Then we walked to the Forteleza de Valença, BACK across the Miño/Minho River into Portugal
    Along the way, we saw where an ancient theater had space in a plaza for seating on stones and for performing
    We took our first "we're in España" photos by the welcome sign and enjoyed the walk on a protected walkway on the small bridge over the wide Rio Miño
    Headed up up up to the Forteleza constructed in the 12th century and added to in the 16th & 17th centuries
    Got to see a local family coming out of Mass in all their finery with a little baby in white - a baptism!!
    Lots of tourist shops with lots of tourists
    Lunch at a cafe - tuna sandwiches on thick brown bread - yum - and a pastel de nata. My last for the trip? 😢😢
    Remembered we hadn't paid for lunch, so we raced the 4 blocks back apologizing profusely 😅. Told the café owner about the expression "being out to lunch," which we certainly were! She said some people leave without paying on purpose !!! so I paid a bit more to cover some of their loss the next time that happens.😅
    We were heading down, following the yellow arrows when we met Josephine from New Zealand, who was having trouble finding her way down the Camino, so we traveled together a bit.
    That is, until we met Theresa from Porto, who was there on a day trip with her family. She initiated the conversation, asking (in Portuguese) if we were on our way to Santiago. It was a very lighthearted conversation - what amazed me is that she seemed to just expect that I would carry on in Portuguese even after she learned we were from the States.
    We came back across the bridge, following the Camino arrows, so we got to walk a bit of what we missed yesterday
    Visited the Cathedral in Tui - basically Romanesque by its structure, but all the ornamentation was very Baroque - not my fave. The museum room had lots of silver pieces (chalices, bishops' staffs, and such). The cloister was beautiful. It had the most magnificent chart of history that was fun to take time with.
    Afterwards, we headed back to the apartment in the light rain, where we caught up with Abby & Eric
    I started this entry, but ended up taking a short nap. Such a cozy space!!
    We watched the VP debate for the upcoming election on YouTube. I was a little shocked when the commercials came on and they were in Spanish- Oh, right! We're not in the US!
    Packed up for tomorrow and headed to bed.
    Tomorrow is a regular day - about 20km, with rolling hills. My feet are feeling much better, so I'm hopeful I can make it all the way.
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  • Day 16: Rainbows into O Porriño

    October 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    31.9k👣 88Z🧡
    18.8km/11.7mi

    Had the other half of yesterday's tuna sandwich and TWO yogurts for breakfast. Yum. Saw me through the whole morning.
    Our apartment was right on the Camino, so all we had to do was turn left, once the bags were picked up.
    On the road around 8:15 - :30.

    BEAUTIFUL walk today along the river, through woods, dirt paths as well as asphalt, gently up and down.

    It POURED rain, then let up, then POURED again, and repeat repeat repeat. Grateful for my REI rain pants today and for my green poncho.

    We had some blue sky, then rainbows, both in the sky and IN FRONT of the woods !!!

    Passed some workers laying a cobblestone walkway. We'd seen the walkways under construction but figured they must be laid by machine, they were just that straight and uniform. But no! The guys were doing it BY HAND.

    Over and under highways, mostly on side roads and woodland paths alongside the river

    A small white car passed us with its music blaring. We could still hear the beating bass even after we couldn't really hear the engine anymore. Joe quipped, "Poor guy. He's still having trouble separating from his mother. Ba-bum, ba-bum, ba-bum."

    Meanwhile, I was composing haiku in my head:

    Blue skies, Ghibli clouds.
    Torrential rain this morning
    All but forgotten.

    "Be here now," is the word of the day.

    As we got close to town, the "official" Camino followed main roads into town. But another smaller and quieter option appeared . . . So we took it!! It was a narrow dirt path alongside a proper creek. We eventually crossed over to the other side and finally turned towards town. We scurried past something foul smelling (recycling? treatment plant?) and then very soon we were walking down a street with old arches on both sides with stores behind them.

    By 2:30pm, we met up with A&E at Paso a Nivel, where we shared a salmon & avocado tosta. J had a lemonade soda, I a cerveza com limón. First one this Camino!

    We picked up our bags there, and made our way to the apartment where we promptly fell into bed. Up later for a shower and laundry. Maybe tapas and wine later.

    Joe: This bed is like the seats on the Totoro neko bus.... Meaning very sinkable and squishy. 🤣
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  • Day 17: To Mos and then on to Redondela

    October 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    15.8k👣 21Z🧡

    6km, then taxi from Mos to Redondela to avoid STEEP ascent and descent. Another good choice.

    Packed up without eating to drop off bags at Paso a Nivel restaurant, and had ham & cheese tosta with cafe com leche, Joe with black tea
    Set out at 8:30-:45am in the dark and spitting rain
    Lots of BIG BIG stones, the size of good-sized houses!
    Guardia Civil had a van giving out sellos (stamps) and assuring pilgrims that the Camino is generally safe
    The GC wear green and serve in small towns, the Policia wear blue and work in the cities
    Gently rolling terrain in small town España, with the rain showers coming and going
    DID see some blue sky fragments
    Pulled off at the cafeteria in Mos for another coffee and tea - only 1 woman serving all those peregrinos!!
    Saw Joe & A&E off for that steep climb, and then pulled out my paints
    Some other pilgrims came by to see the sketch and take photos 😊
    Helped the woman bus the tables, which she appreciated
    Walked over to the church. Since it was not raining, I was able to sketch the bell tower of the church through the tree leaves
    Went back to the cafeteria and asked for help calling a taxi
    Wited in the light rain until Manuel came
    He had worked for 20 years in the US (with Royal Caribbean cruises) yet preferred the quality of life here, with its slower pace - 2 hr lunches, having a beer after work with friends, etc.
    He dropped me off at the church near our apartment for the night, and encouraged me to check out this area for its history and culture
    I went in the church to shelter from the rain and checked it out - lots and lots of lifelike religious statues, a table with a sello and inkpad, and Opus Dei cards (!!!)
    The rain had let up a bit, but I still need my poncho. A passerby could see I needed help with the back, and helped, then wished me a Buen Camino
    Walked down towards the shops and chose a place where I could get a veggie burger with cheese (completa - with lettuce and tomato), as recommended by M of Ottowa
    Sat together and chatted while waiting for J A & E to pull into town
    Headed back to the apartment when I heard from them and got settled in around 3pm
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  • Day 18: Blowing in to Pontevedra

    October 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    14.7k👣 65Z🧡
    7.4km + taxi

    Blisters make it hard to keep walking. So does a lot of elevation gain and loss. And then there's doing it in a hurricane. 🌀 🌀 🌀

    We left our apartment while it was still dark after a quick breakfast of yogurt and banana around 8:15.
    Wound our way down through the old part of town to the roadway where rush hour was well underway, not only with cars but also pilgrims

    The wind was really blowing, and it was raining enough to be wearing raingear, but not pouring like the other day. (Feet stayed pretty dry)
    Up up up along small roadways and dirt paths
    Fragrant with eucalyptus and littered with fallen bark and leaves
    Relied on my poles for the first time this trip
    Climbed over a couple of downed trees

    Made up another verse to that song Clang Clang Clang Went the Trolleys:
    🎶🎶
    Up up up climbed the pilgrims
    At a 19% grade or more
    Whoosh whoosh whoosh went the wind
    Oh, tomorrow I'll be sore.

    Twice, met folks I had seen at the café yesterday when I was sketching. Both times, they recognized me first 😊

    Hobbled into the town of Arcade and dove head first into the first cafe, which turned out to be a combination albergue and cafe with extended rooms with tables and chairs - perfect for us!
    A&E were already there. Abby's GI was acting up, just as Joe's was settling down, so she (with her gut) and I (with my feet) decided to taxi into Pontevedra
    But FIRST! cake (first chance at Tarte de Santiago) and coffee, with tea for Joe
    The guys headed back out on the Camino; we got help calling a taxi
    Another rider joined us - Diane from Sacramento

    It was a half hour drive into town, dropping Diane off at her albergue
    We got dropped off at the corner because cars can't go in where our building is !!!
    After checking out the apartment, we made a quick run to a teeny tiny farmacia where a lot of pantomime helped up get what we needed
    Napped 😴😴 until the guys came in around 4:30-5, having stopped at an Aldi's for some basic groceries. They told tales of climbing around and through some 8" deep water on the roadway on the way down today's second hill !!!

    Then the hunt for our bags was on. It turns out there was a closet on the ground floor labeled Alunos (Food)... ???
    Showering up now, and we'll see what the evening holds
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  • Day 19: One More Hill, Streaming

    October 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    23k👣 37Z🧡
    11.5 km & taxi

    Headed out after yogurt & banana back along the Camino to see a BEAUTIFUL chapel Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina (Chapel of the Virgin Pilgrim). Lots of scallop shell and staff & gourd motifs as well as a wonderfully peaceful presence
    Dulce de leche croissant at Bēkari 😋
    Left town across a wide bridge, from which we could see an archeological dig of the 12th century and 16th century bridge foundations
    Galicia continued to deliver with its sandy footpaths through eucalyptus forests, uphill and down
    In the middle of nowhere, we could hear Joan Baez music. Came around the bend to see a fellow playing electric bass to her music !!! When I left a few coins, he put his hand on his heart ❤️
    Had to take a seat to rest. Met Victoria, a Russian woman currently living in "NY/NJ" and traveling with Brussels, her half-blind, 14 yo white mini poodle. She's traveled all over and had a lot to say. Joe ended up walking the last 3 miles or so into town later in the day
    At this point, Joe moved ahead while I moved at my own pace
    The rains from the hurricane had swollen the streams and were running across the path in many places
    Every now and then, feet got wet

    Just as I crested the hill and was thinking about passing up a VERY popular watering hole, I met Abby coming out of the restroom. Turns out Joe & Eric were in the back patio, so I ended up going in after all
    After a short break, we continued on, this time down the hill
    I'd just gotten down when I felt something like a paper cut tear on my left foot
    They say the Camino provides, and just as I started looking for a good place to take off my sock & shoe to assess, I spied a bus stop with a lovely little bench
    Yes, another blister, this one leaking from UNDER the Compeed bandage
    Doctored it up. I was surprised to see there were still pilgrims coming along the road. It had felt like I was the last one!
    One stopped, and froze mid stride to shout out, "Need plasters?" only to resume walking once I assured her I had some bandages.

    Tried twice to get a good solution, but decided to throw in the towel at the O Camiño da Eira cafe at 2pm
    First things first: a bathroom break! (First one of the day!) And then a café com leche. (Also first of the day.) And then a sketch of this large olive tree on the patio. And finally, over an hour later, I asked the café owner for help calling a taxi 🚕
    When I asked the driver, "¿Hablas inglés?" his reply made me laugh: "No."
    So I got to stumble along with my Spanish, praising the beauty of Galicia.
    15 min later, we were in Caldas de Reís, and as I was walking to our pension, I spied A, E, and J at a café so I joined them there. Spanish tortilla with a plate of nachos with pico do gallo & guacamole went nicely with the sangria I ordered, which had been predicted by the rest of the gang 😊
    Made a quick trip to the Frioz supermercado down the street for some breakfast food
    Surprise! We met Victoria again.
    Collapsed as soon as we entered our pension room (God is good: it's on the first floor, so only 1 flight up)
    Will have to work up the energy to shower... and then zzzzz 😴😴😴

    Remember how we started out at Caldas da Rainha in Portugal? That was the hot baths of the Queen. Tonight, we're in Caldas de Reis, hot baths of the Kings (in Spain, obviously).
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  • Day 20: Pedrón & St. James' boat

    October 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    9.2k👣 Exploring Caldas de Reís and Padrón

    Spent most of the day in Caldas de Reis, walking in my sandals with bandaged toes. Got to do some art (yay!) and explore a bit. Caught the bus to Padrón in the early afternoon to meet up with the gang at our digs for the night.

    Another day beginning at 6:45am and a simple café breakfast of croissant and cafe con leche. Wished Joe a good day, and then found the Ponte Romana on Río Bermaña to sketch. It was damp and threatening to rain, so I found a café that was closed but had an awning and a couple stacks of chairs. I set up my Caldas studio and worked away for a couple of hours, during which the café owner started opening up and allowed me to keep on working.

    After packing up, I had a coffee there and got a stamp for my Camino credential. We need 2 stamps a day to earn a Compostela certificate, and even though I don't think I'll qualify because I've missed so much walking, the credential is a wonderful souvenir from this experience.

    A famous spot in Caldas is the Igrexa de San Tomé Becket, so I spent some time there (so many palm trees here! 🌴 🌴🌴) and then checked out where I'd catch my bus to Padrón. Behind it was a lovely, if empty, botanical garden along the River Umia.

    Next up was to find the hot springs for which the town was named. A Spanish family was touring the area too, and checking out the steaming water pouring from 2 spigots into a small pool. In the summer, I bet a lot of peregrinos soak their feet here!

    I circled around to the Ponte Romana, and met some folks from Chicago (and Norway and Georgia) who all hike together. I had to dash off as I did NOT want to miss my bus at 2:10. (Thanks, Google.)

    A nearby café waiter confirmed the spot, and another pilgrim waiting confirmed the price: €1.55. As the waiter predicted, the bus was late, and it started to POUR. Still, we were all dry enough from sheltering under storefront overhang.

    30 min later, we were pulling into the Padrón bus station. It hardly seems fair!! 6 hrs of walking the Camino = 1 a half hour bus ride on the highway. Walked a few minutes and found our apartment (a luxury of TWO (count 'em, 2!!) bathrooms, as well as rocking chairs on the veranda overlooking all the pilgrims making their way into town.

    Dinner was the regional soup and grilled hake, as well as a taste of tender octopus. Later, we checked out the Church of the Apostle (who else but Santiago himself?). When they found the stone from Roman times that St. James had moored his boat to when he first came to Spain to share the Gospel, they built an altar over it and a church to house it.

    While in front of the stone, I noticed my amiga from the day I was painting in the café. We had seen her this morning at breakfast, too, where she greeted me, "Amiga!" So I did the same tonight. 😊

    Home to shower, do laundry, and figure out tomorrow. I may bus in and meet the gang at the Cathedral, giving my blisters a couple more days to heal before the walk to Finisterre. (They are still weeping today.) Not the Camino I had planned, but the one that is.
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  • Day 21: Sangria in Santiago

    October 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    16.5k👣 + bus ride Padrón to Santiago

    Up early at 6:15am, as we feared the crush of humanity pouring into Santiago today. But it was POURING rain (again). It also took me a while to prep my blisters, but with the rain, Abby was saying she felt less pressed. By the time we headed to the café, though, the rain had almost stopped

    A light breakfast of a toasted roll with olive oil and tomato puree - so fresh and delish! - with a cafe con leche, of course. A, E & J headed out on the Camino; I headed back to our apartment to settle day out

    Walked to the bus station to find it closed and empty. It IS a national holiday (Día de la Hispanidade - Christopher Columbus Day). But I WAS 1.5 hrs early for the bus to Santiago. So I used my minimal Spanish to check with the young lovers on a bench and confirmed that I was in the right place and that the bus to Santiago was due at about 10:40.

    With so much time, of course, I started sketching the bus station. Before long, Delas joined me, commenting on the sketch, and we ended up chatting all the way to Santiago. We split at the plaza at the Cathedral, and I set up my studio in the shade.

    And then one of the best things of this trip happened: Laura and little bro Lorenzo from Portugal joined me in painting. And of course their parents and their Brasileiro uncle joined me. Quite fun conversation!! We exchanged contact info, so I hope we'll keep in touch. Shortly after, another mom & daughter joined me too, this time just to chat.

    Started to get hungry, so I wandered over to where the Portuguese Camino route enters the Old Town . . . And who should I meet but Alexandra from Casa Fernanda. Joe had sat next to her at dinner ther, and later walked together a bit, I think, so I had heard a lot about this Romanian woman living in Italy. We had a bite (me, an empanada galego... tuna and olives... delish) and some sangria. (It was after 2pm!)

    When they got up to go, we hugged goodbye with hopes of meeting again in her hometown of Turin. And when I turned back to my table, my still half-filled sangria was gone! Two older English ladies a couple tables over told me that a scruffy man had swiped it, putting the WHOLE GLASS under his jacket!!! It just made me laugh.

    So I joined Carol and Jackie at their table to chat a bit. They had walked the Frances route 5 years ago and wanted to visit the area again. I started getting messages from the fam about checking on our luggage, so I left in search of that pick-up address.

    It was a little confusing, and by that time, the fam were in town, so I retraced my steps to the Cathedral where we all met up, and then went to get our Compostelas.

    The system has been highly automated - with 2000 folks arriving each day, that's a good thing! There was one woman helping - she must have said the same thing 500 times already today, but she had such a light and joy about her that I had to take our pic together. She gave me the longest, warmest hug and wished me a Buen Camino. 🧡🧡🧡

    Classic Americanism Eric overheard when getting our Compostelas.
    American: Uh, uh oh. Typo here. There's no "h" in my name!
    Clerk: Uh... that's Latin.
    🤣🤣🤣

    Up hill & down to find our apartment, get our keys, have a sip of sangria we'd bought at the grocery, then off to locate our luggage. I had only been off by a few doors, it turns out. We lugged our bags back, grateful we hadn't had to carry them the whole way.

    After a brief rest, we connected with Toby from Bavaria and had dinner at 16 (Dezaseis). FANTASTIC FOOD and, of course, comradery. We traded stories and worries over the state of the world, and fought for the bill 😅. He spoke from the heart, saying that we had made his Camino. He missed so much walking due to shin splits, and has resolved to walk the Portuguese again during Holy Week next year. What a champ.

    Joe and Abby were EXHAUSTED, and with Joe's runny nose, Abby offered a COVID test. It hadn't occurred to us, but it was a good idea. And . . . POSITIVE! Good thing tomorrow is a rest day. We'll have to figure out where we go from here tomorrow.
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  • Day 22: Rest Day in SDC & Time to Pivot

    October 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    6.3k👣

    Slept in !!! to 8:30!!! when it was just getting light!!! In the plaza below our windows, a race was underway. Lots of kids' groups and adults as well.

    Well, with Joe resting up with COVID, I took my time this morning catching up on this record, email, etc. Went out to the plaza in front of the Cathedral where I got a message from Abby that she & Eric were picking up the credentials for Finisterre. I ended up joining them for breakfast (lunch?) and had not one but two (2!!) glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice along with a tosta of ham & cheese, with a fried egg on top (!!!).

    We waited a long time to order and a long time to be served, but sitting at a café outside on a sunny day is pretty nice. Afterwards, we tried to visit the Museum of Pilgrimage, but despite it listing Sun. hours on the door, it stubbornly stayed closed. We wandered the streets looking for the Pilgrim House, but found it too - like many other places - was closed on Sundays.

    We poked around and finally found a place that would make a tortilla (egg and potatoes) to go (for Joe). So I brought that back, piping hot, to the apartment where Joe was still asleep. I got us bus reservations for the León to SDC leg, and then was inspired to nap too.

    Once A&E were back, i started looking for busses back from Finisterre and realized we had a problem: they were sold out on the days we wanted to travel. 😲😲

    We moved the party onto the plaza outside and spent a couple of hours sorting out the next few days, now that Joe was down for the count. We made some decisions (ditch the Finisterre Camino and seeing Mark's concert in Villafranca del Bierzo 😭😭😭, extend time in SDC, Astorga and León). In the end, we decided our priority was making space for Joe to recover. We closed out the day with dinner at the same place as last night A Catro (shredded pork loin seasoned with paprika and red peppers) and are ready to crash now.
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